Start saving for a regear for your move to 35s. I drove my '06 for several months with the OEM 4.10s after I went to 35s. It was barely tolerable. I now have 5.13s and it's like a sportscar compared to 4.10s.
Thanks, I was kinda planning on a regear but I figured I'd get it all on and see how it drove first. I'll just be happy to have it on the road again soon
@@rodaj687 that's good to hear. Is it a manual? Also are you around mountains any? My jeep was fine until I hit Colorado on a trip. It was rough up the mountains lol
Good instruction as I am about to do the passenger side. Pertaining to after market front Diff covers, majority do not fit under full stuff without hitting the track bar without shortening the front control arms. Poison Spyder (I believe) fixed theirs later on but at one point them and ARB were the worst culprits. There is an aftermarket modified Dana cover (can't remember who but I got their Dana 30 one for my HP 30). It looks like now there are skid plates you can get that protect the bottom but do not interfere with the trackbar.
I agree with long jeep. 35's with 4.10's are worse than stock. 35's with 4.56 will put you back to stock. 4,88's at least and 5.13's even better. the transfer case will help alot though. Maybe go to 33's if you haven't bought your tires yet. You only lose an inch. Where are you buying your body parts? Great work kid.
I have already bought my tires but I am also keeping my old rims and tires. So if it's terrible I'll switch back until I can regear. The panels I bought (floor pans and torque box) all came from quadratec. The rocker panel came from classic enterprises. Thanks for the info!
I’m doing mine but I’ll do the whole box the way you did it you should’ve put fish plates if you smash it by up maybe where you weld it will fold Uber your legs. I don’t like that tin protects my legs. I’ll put a extra plate a fence pole could go right threw the floor
I have to do those full length torque boxes as well. But my floorboards are already done and up top is completely finished with Bed liner paint . Am I going to be able to remove the whole torque boxes from underneath the jeep. I don’t wanna do any work up top???
I think you'd be able to do most of it from the bottom but when you are cutting it off from the floor pan you'd have to have surgical like precision to not harm the floor pans any. I'm imagine you'll end up having to do some minor repair work but nothing major is you are slow and careful.
@@WheelinWithWally Yeah what if I just take it down to the tabs of the old torque box and weld the new one right on top of the old tabs. I’ll get a half of a millimeter lift kit lol
I left the tank in the whole time. It probably would be a little easier for some parts and safer to remove it but I didn't. I do have a video on my channel of me removing the gas tank if you decide you want to.
@@repairmanlevi9656 the skid plate or the rear where all the carriage bolts go? Or up front where the other bolts are? I had some surface rust but all in all it was find.
I'm doing the same project and was wondering how the seat bolts anchor on the rear panel. Mine is so badly rusted that I barely have any torque box left, a large part of the outer rear floor pan is gone, and I can't tell how the two bolts for the driver seat mounted to the floor.
@@WheelinWithWally I mean the two bolts that mount the driver seat to the floor in the back. Possibly weld nuts in the torque box and that L shaped bracket?
@@MatthewGeneral I can't remember 100 percent but I'm pretty sure the back left bolt came already on my new torque box. The floor pans already had the correct holes in them as well. The back right one has a nut welded onto a random support piece that is under the floor but a separate sheet of metal. It's one I had to drill spot welds out on before I cut out the old floor. That piece should probably stoll be good for you I'd imagine.
Are you talking about the holes around 12:41 in the video? The holes I welded shut there could not be reached from above. They were enclosed up top and once I put the torque box on they would have been blocked from below too. So they needed sealed before that.
Yeah I absolutely do. It's not rusting through anywhere yet but the amount of rust flakes I've gotten out of it are concerning. I think instead of fighting the up hill battle of trying to save this one I will just let it go and keep an eye out for a clean frame. Then in the future I will just do a full frame swap.
@@WheelinWithWally you can buy rust kits that can be welded to the existing frame and fluid film it internally and make drain holes. Even with a cleaner frame these jeeps lacked drain holes so crap gets in there and rusts out. Love the vids. I'm subscribed
@@ryansremark6983 yeah the frame is always in the back of my mind but something I'm pushing down the road a bit. I'm a little worn out on rust repair right now. Thanks for the support! I cant wait for the next videos I get to do because they will actually be more enjoyable to make. While the rust repair was necessary it was a long miserable process that took my jeep out of commission right when the weather started to get nice. So I was not having fun at all. But now I'll be doing some upgrades and shorter more fun videos and then hopefully back to some off road footage
Start saving for a regear for your move to 35s. I drove my '06 for several months with the OEM 4.10s after I went to 35s. It was barely tolerable. I now have 5.13s and it's like a sportscar compared to 4.10s.
Thanks, I was kinda planning on a regear but I figured I'd get it all on and see how it drove first. I'll just be happy to have it on the road again soon
I have a sport with 4.10s and 35s, it's not bad at all. Not worth the money to swap. I find it better on hwy speed.
@@rodaj687 that's good to hear. Is it a manual? Also are you around mountains any? My jeep was fine until I hit Colorado on a trip. It was rough up the mountains lol
Frame looks surprisingly good!
Haha its okay but will need repair sometime soon. Just starting to get bad here and there.
Good instruction as I am about to do the passenger side.
Pertaining to after market front Diff covers, majority do not fit under full stuff without hitting the track bar without shortening the front control arms. Poison Spyder (I believe) fixed theirs later on but at one point them and ARB were the worst culprits.
There is an aftermarket modified Dana cover (can't remember who but I got their Dana 30 one for my HP 30). It looks like now there are skid plates you can get that protect the bottom but do not interfere with the trackbar.
Thanks for the info! Good luck on the passenger side of your jeep
Wally contact parts breakers in Colorado they great prices on good solid frams .
Thanks for the tip!
I agree with long jeep. 35's with 4.10's are worse than stock. 35's with 4.56 will put you back to stock. 4,88's at least and 5.13's even better. the transfer case will help alot though. Maybe go to 33's if you haven't bought your tires yet. You only lose an inch. Where are you buying your body parts? Great work kid.
I have already bought my tires but I am also keeping my old rims and tires. So if it's terrible I'll switch back until I can regear.
The panels I bought (floor pans and torque box) all came from quadratec. The rocker panel came from classic enterprises.
Thanks for the info!
@@WheelinWithWally Thanks Wally.
I’m doing mine but I’ll do the whole box the way you did it you should’ve put fish plates if you smash it by up maybe where you weld it will fold Uber your legs. I don’t like that tin protects my legs. I’ll put a extra plate a fence pole could go right threw the floor
Alway keep spraying oil to drill
I have to do those full length torque boxes as well. But my floorboards are already done and up top is completely finished with Bed liner paint . Am I going to be able to remove the whole torque boxes from underneath the jeep. I don’t wanna do any work up top???
I think you'd be able to do most of it from the bottom but when you are cutting it off from the floor pan you'd have to have surgical like precision to not harm the floor pans any. I'm imagine you'll end up having to do some minor repair work but nothing major is you are slow and careful.
@@WheelinWithWally Yeah what if I just take it down to the tabs of the old torque box and weld the new one right on top of the old tabs. I’ll get a half of a millimeter lift kit lol
@@MrRyanlipp1980 I couldn't really see it hurting lol. So whatever works for you and your jeep and keeps it alive and on the road!
Did you remove the fuel tank for any of this restoration?
I left the tank in the whole time. It probably would be a little easier for some parts and safer to remove it but I didn't. I do have a video on my channel of me removing the gas tank if you decide you want to.
@@WheelinWithWally what did your gas tank support look like?
@@repairmanlevi9656 the skid plate or the rear where all the carriage bolts go? Or up front where the other bolts are? I had some surface rust but all in all it was find.
I'm doing the same project and was wondering how the seat bolts anchor on the rear panel. Mine is so badly rusted that I barely have any torque box left, a large part of the outer rear floor pan is gone, and I can't tell how the two bolts for the driver seat mounted to the floor.
I'll have to double check after work but I'm pretty sure the seat belts mount directly to the roll cage. The roll cage then mounts to the floor.
@@WheelinWithWally I mean the two bolts that mount the driver seat to the floor in the back. Possibly weld nuts in the torque box and that L shaped bracket?
@@MatthewGeneral I can't remember 100 percent but I'm pretty sure the back left bolt came already on my new torque box. The floor pans already had the correct holes in them as well. The back right one has a nut welded onto a random support piece that is under the floor but a separate sheet of metal. It's one I had to drill spot welds out on before I cut out the old floor. That piece should probably stoll be good for you I'd imagine.
@@WheelinWithWally thanks a ton for taking the time to reply! That helps
@@MatthewGeneral no problem! Thanks for watching and hopefully the videos are helpful
Why did you weld the holes closed? 😂weld from above to reconnect your torque box 🎉
Are you talking about the holes around 12:41 in the video? The holes I welded shut there could not be reached from above. They were enclosed up top and once I put the torque box on they would have been blocked from below too. So they needed sealed before that.
There is 8 under the box lol
You might have some frame rust to deal with
Yeah I absolutely do. It's not rusting through anywhere yet but the amount of rust flakes I've gotten out of it are concerning. I think instead of fighting the up hill battle of trying to save this one I will just let it go and keep an eye out for a clean frame. Then in the future I will just do a full frame swap.
@@WheelinWithWally you can buy rust kits that can be welded to the existing frame and fluid film it internally and make drain holes. Even with a cleaner frame these jeeps lacked drain holes so crap gets in there and rusts out. Love the vids. I'm subscribed
@@ryansremark6983 yeah the frame is always in the back of my mind but something I'm pushing down the road a bit. I'm a little worn out on rust repair right now. Thanks for the support! I cant wait for the next videos I get to do because they will actually be more enjoyable to make. While the rust repair was necessary it was a long miserable process that took my jeep out of commission right when the weather started to get nice. So I was not having fun at all. But now I'll be doing some upgrades and shorter more fun videos and then hopefully back to some off road footage