Thanks to share this, I really injoy the dedication to details you have, I learn and use a lot from your ways of setting up your machinery, clearly made for fine tolerances in your products.. Great job....
Nice job. I suspect most viewers do not have the production shop equipment that you do, but the techniques still apply to those of us using router tables and cheaper cutter sets. Thanks for showing us your process. The results are impressive.
Rob Cote Hi, thanks for the comment. Yes, you are correct, most viewers won't have all the heavy duty equipment I'm using here, but to your point the basic techniques still apply. Its just something I decided to do to show viewers that have commented in the past wanting to know a bit more on how I build doors. Thanks again, and I'm glad you liked it. Scott
Nice setup for a small shop. I used to make doors for other shops but couldn't make decent $ after the big, made to order, companies became common. I switched to making short run custom moldings on my shapers. Bought a couple of sets of lock edge collars and some steel. Could quickly grind to match the customers desires. You need a heavier shaper for doing that kind of work. Over the years my work & equipment evolved. Custom moldings were still done but represented a small part of the shop. I did add 6 shapers and got rid of the PM & Deltas. Also got a new Weinig 5 head molder and profile grinder. Now we can grind to pattern and use the same heads on the shapers as the molder. Out Taylor camp rack, arched molding glue up form, arched molding shaper. the ability to make curved crown on a big tilt shaper & we can grind to pattern and make any style of rosette. Found that we had to run the rosette head on a metal milling machine instead of a heavy drill press. About 15 years ago I finally bought a new Taiwan made straight line rip saw. Should have done that long before. The rest of the shop makes commercial fixtures. All CNC based.
Your videos are always so well done. I really appreciate you sharing your extensive experience in the craft! Thanks very much. I'm going to be making my first set of raised panel doors for a Murphy bed and cabinets for our home, and am certain to use some of your tricks. Thanks, again!!
@@TheWoodCraftsman I completed all 14 panels for the project I'd mentioned, seven of which were arched. They turned out beautifully as you can see on my Instagram channel here: instagram.com/p/CO5ZEeuDuQa/ But, unfortunately, I had a problem with my spray booth as I mentioned there.
I've been making custom cabinets, molding and millwork for over 20 years and one thing about a lot of "how to" videos is that the majority of them fail to show or even mention the most important and time consuming step to building cabinet doors or moldings. The SET UP is the most important and and time consuming part of any build. Its easy to just shove wood into the machine after its all set up and ready to go. This is a prime example of how people who know nothing about the craft get the impression it just takes five minutes to build a door or cabinet and you are trying to over charge them for everything. I don't know how many times I have had someone say that they say a video on u-tube and it doesn't take any real skills or time at all to make something, that's when I tell them the door swings both ways to my shop..
So, not sure what exactly is being said here or how it's meant to be delivered, but this video is NOT a "How To" video as it clearly states in the beginning. Secondly, I put up content like this because I enjoy sharing with other's the art of cabinet making and wood finishing. If I showed all of the steps in one video with minimal editing, no one would be interested in it, and if I broke it up in to multiple parts, there's a very large chance that majority of the audience wouldn't watch them all anyways. The idea of me putting up the videos I produce is strictly fun and entertainment to share with others. I am by no means a videographer or editor. Woodworking has been my passion since I graduated high school and pursued a two year vocational education of cabinetmaking in my senior year over 25 years ago. So I don't disagree that the door swings both ways. We need to get paid for our services. Regards, Scott
Hi, not a problem. The cope and stick setup was something I built myself in the shop, after seeing a video on UA-cam. I later discovered the original system was designed and built by a company called Wynmatic. From the prices I saw compared to the time, effort, and materials I have invested in building my own, it would have been cheaper for me to buy it. Last I looked the coping jig was around $700-750. I don't remember exactly what the sticking setup was, but if I had to guess it was around $1800-2000. Thanks! Scott
Awesome video scott! Just got me a used delta 3hp shaper, tried making some raised panels with my freud ogee panel cutter and noticed some of the corner profiles are not uniform. Any advice on why this is happing? Thanks again for the videos that inspire us.
Thank you for the kind words! This is a common problem It can be a problem mostly depending on how the work piece is fed and supported. If you are cutting face down, it can be as simple as where the pressure is applied during the entrance and exit of the cut. Face up is a little more forgiving because you are actually forming the panel edge tongue thickness and supporting the backside through the cut, but you still can have an occasional uneven profile in the corners. There are a couple of things to look at: 1. how flat is the panel, 2) is a table insert around the spindle being used, and is it level with the cast iron table, 3) If you are using a power feeder, make sure the rollers are at least 1/4" lower than the thickness of the panel so it has adequate pressure, 4) also if using a power feeder, I prefer to have the middle tire dead center of the spindle so any cupped or warped panel cannot move when it enters or exits the cut. Unfortunately the more intricate the profile the more it may show up. Good luck. Scott
@@TheWoodCraftsman Thanks scott for the advice i appreciate it! I unfortunately do not have a stock feeder but looking to get one, but im just a part time woodworker/apprentice and found that the feeders sometimes cost more than the shapers lol. I will follow your instructions and see what results I get. Thanks again for taking the time to message back to me and look forward for more videos!
Hello, thanks for making these videos. I am starting out and was curious if you think knife marks per inch is really important? I’ve been reading a lot and of course I’ve not much experience. This panel you’re doing would equal out to 109 marks per inch, of course “standard” would say 20 per inch.. but your door seems fine. Haha, I’m going nuts here
Here is the thing with knife marks; in general I'm not concerned at all with them, just as long as you don't feel the ripple. If the tooling is sharp, the knife marks will buff out when sanding (for a raised pane). When I run cope and stick door frames, I run at 7000 rpm @ 26 FPM, and when I look at the edge in the light, its very faint if any. There are other factors that play in to consideration when it comes to knife marks; obviously rpm and feed speed are two of them, but the alignment of the carbide insert in parallel with one another and spindle runout are also factors
You listed many if your cutters as "custom". Where do you get custom cutters? Do you mean the inserts are custom or the entire block the cutter inserts are mounted? I'm going to be picking up a grizzly 3hp (probably smaller than yours) that goes up to 1" spindle. Thanks for anything you can help me with.
The custom insert tooling is manufactured by Dimensions In Tooling in Granger Indiana. The tool body and inserts are custom. They do mostly custom, and all is made to order. They have a series of made to order profiles for cope and stick, raised panel, and outside door profile that will fit in a couple of universal heads that they manufacture that is designed to use heavy steel backers to support the carbide inserts. They can take any profile and modify it to your design and assign it a part number for you. No minimum order either. Very reasonable in cost. Scott
Good sir is that a shop made Outside (Outboard) Fence or is it a store purchased item that you installed onto the shaper table top that is holding your rails inplace under the power feeder? Thanks for any response. I just purchased my first shaper and I like those jigs you have , As a disabled veteran whom is getting back into woodworking to find a place to relax and create I like your setup plus I want to do my own cabinets for my own house. Where did you source the material if shop made if you don't mind me asking?
Hi! First of all.....THANK YOU for serving! So it's a shop built knock off of a commercial system made by Wynmatic Inc. I built it thinking it was cheaper than buying, but after all the materials and s&h charges, and the significant amount of time I spent on building the system, I could have bought it and been ahead. I sourced the materials from several places, such as eBay, McMaster Carr, and local hardware store. The materials are 6061 aluminum bar and round stock, HDPE plastic, polycarbonate, and some 80/20 aluminum extrusion (1x1). As I mentioned earlier, there's a significant investment in materials vs buying, if your time is of value to you, you might consider buying it if it's still available. Thanks. Scott
Hi, thanks for the tip. The stain I used wasn't intended for the doors, just something I had of a color I liked. Normally I would spray on a solventborne dye stain followed by a weak wipe stain. Thanks. Scott
What a professional looking door! Always enjoy watching you videos. What size material are you using for your raised panel? Looks like the front is flush.. Like how the back of the door looks like without the backcut grove. How do you accomplish that? Thanks
+Mark Matt Hi, thanks for the comment. All the materials for the frame and panel start at 13/16", however when we cut out and glue up the panels we surface plane down to 0.670". This will make the panel stand proud about a 1/32" so when the doors go through the wide belt sander (Timesaver 2300) it will ensure that the panel is sanded entirely across the entire surface and flush with the frame. The drawer front panels stay full thickness and are back cut but the panel is offset 1/32" to stand proud just like the doors for the same reason. Thanks! Scott
Brilliant mate 👍 really efficient. Love your jigs also, how did you fit your extrusion bars on the edge of your spindle moulder, great idea for fitting your jigs to
Hi, thank you for the kind words. The extrusions are mounted to the edge just with 1/4" bolts and some nylon spacers. The bolt head slips I'm the extrusions, and the nuts are in the inside edge of the underside of the table between the webbing. They are not perfectly in parallel with each other, so the outboard fence has had elongated holes to make it slide effortlessly. Thanks. Scott
Wow ok so with those machines, you can do alot of profiling even jointing (as long as you have the right cutter) where did you custom order the cutters if you dont mind me asking? I am debating if i should get my self one of those shapers to help profiling furniture faster also nicer.
+///AMG Most of my tooling is from D.I.T. (Dimensions In Tooling) located in Granger Indiana. Average head cost is $375 + tips. Tips range from $15-20 each (× 3). A cope and stick set is around $800, raised panel cutter is around $450, and a door edge is around $360.
damn just for the cutters.. i cant find used machines here, hopefully one day. they are expensive brand new for a good one. have you ever heard on KING canada products?
+Anthony P Hi, thanks for the comment. The shaper cutter is a custom insert tooling style head made by Dimensions In Tooling. Its a double roundover with a 0.760" opening with a 10 degree flare with a inside radius just shy of 1/8", 3.75" minor diameter with 1.25" bore. Thanks! Scott
I don't understand why people get in such an uproar about brushing glue anyway. If you have a loose fitting tenon than no amount of glue slathered evenly across it will make it any stronger anyway. It's meant to bond surfaces that are already mated and not fill gaps. I cringe when I see people use glue as a stop gap (pun intended).
NGinuity Hi, thanks for the comment. I agree. A lot of people don't realize that the glue itself shrinks a bit as the glue dries, so the term "gap filling" is kind of misleading. I think the reason some people insist on brushing glue in a cope and stick or mortise and tennon joint is because the end grain can soak it it up, however.....if the glue is spread with a descent bead with a bottle, the end grain factor is reduced greatly because the non spread bead has more mass and its not being spread out in a thin film, the thinner the bead or film, the faster it starts to set up the less work-ability one has. Thanks! Scott
Ok so dont take my comments in a negative way. If you are in business i think you would make more money to farm out your doors. Your processes are way too slow. Your shapers are not "heavy duty". Your cope jig is very slow. Get a Weaver air tenon jig is it very fast. Changeover is too slow to go to stick and what about other widths frame parts? Do you only offer 1or2profiles and thats it? Your panel raising would be faster and more accurate to back cut at the same time using a shaper cutter instead of a dado set. Get a EZ Ball spaceball gun. No need to take off 1/16 all the way around. Those shaper cutter machine marks need sanding anyways. Oh and your clamp up method is way too slow and not accurate enough as well. Get JLT door clamp. That didnt sound negative did it? Just the way i see it as being a small shop that only builds doors. Thanks for taking the time to make the vid. I do think every shop is diffirent. I just think you could be saving a LOT of time.
+jeremy s Well....,I'm not sure where to start here. You have pretty much cut my process apart. So I'm just going to explain each and every step. First off, I build my own doors for the cabinets we build, not for anyone else. Why do I build rather than buy, its simple. I have 100% control of the door and drawer front quality in material, grain matching, color, joints, profile quality (chatter / sanding), and surface preparation, not to mention I have control over a custom design with custom tooling, custom style and rail widths, 9 stock inside frame profiles, 7 panel profiles, and 4 outside profiles, not to mention I can have a custom designed profile to match an existing profile ( thats the beauty of insert tooling with multi profile bodies). So basically when we do a job and we order materials (sheet stock and solid stock) all of the face frames, doors, drawer fronts, toe board and anything else goes through the same sanding sequence so when we go to stain and finish it all stains up the same. The set-up is minimal because all the tooling have the exact same minor diameter, so profile changes are plug and play with no fence adjustment. The equipment used may not meet your classification of "heavy duty" but the Powermatic 26, 27, 27 power stack and the 27 super where the industry standard for many small shops for 20-30 years. No, they arn't a Wadkin, SCMI, Casedei, Northfield, or a Martin shaper, but they aren't your average DIYers shaper either. The change over you may think is slow, but remember, I'm coping and sticking on one shaper with no tooling change, and NO height or fence adjustment between coping and sticking. Maybe the coping jig is a little slow for you, but I find it very effective. Both the coping sled and sticking fence is a knock off of an existing system that retails for over $3,000, I just built mine to accommodate my specific needs. The frame width is 100% customizable. The only rabbeting I do is for the drawer front panels, and usually I have another small table saw set up with a power feed for that task. I will check out the EZ ball space ball gun, it souds like a good concept. I build my doors 1/8" oversize so I can remove the 1/16" all the way around the door on the door edge shaper to remove the saw marks. A profiled machined edge sands up much quicker than saw kerf marks. I will say a JLT door clamp would help, but, I start with a square joint in the coping sled first which helps the door square up nicely with no gaps, but it is in my wish list. Please keep in mind this particular video was for a new door style we added this year. Thanks!
Thanks to share this, I really injoy the dedication to details you have, I learn and use a lot from your ways of setting up your machinery, clearly made for fine tolerances in your products.. Great job....
Thank you for the kind words! Scott
Nice job. I suspect most viewers do not have the production shop equipment that you do, but the techniques still apply to those of us using router tables and cheaper cutter sets. Thanks for showing us your process. The results are impressive.
Rob Cote Hi, thanks for the comment. Yes, you are correct, most viewers won't have all the heavy duty equipment I'm using here, but to your point the basic techniques still apply. Its just something I decided to do to show viewers that have commented in the past wanting to know a bit more on how I build doors. Thanks again, and I'm glad you liked it. Scott
Nice setup for a small shop. I used to make doors for other shops but couldn't make decent $ after the big, made to order, companies became common. I switched to making short run custom moldings on my shapers. Bought a couple of sets of lock edge collars and some steel. Could quickly grind to match the customers desires. You need a heavier shaper for doing that kind of work. Over the years my work & equipment evolved. Custom moldings were still done but represented a small part of the shop. I did add 6 shapers and got rid of the PM & Deltas. Also got a new Weinig 5 head molder and profile grinder. Now we can grind to pattern and use the same heads on the shapers as the molder. Out Taylor camp rack, arched molding glue up form, arched molding shaper. the ability to make curved crown on a big tilt shaper & we can grind to pattern and make any style of rosette. Found that we had to run the rosette head on a metal milling machine instead of a heavy drill press. About 15 years ago I finally bought a new Taiwan made straight line rip saw. Should have done that long before. The rest of the shop makes commercial fixtures. All CNC based.
Your videos are always so well done. I really appreciate you sharing your extensive experience in the craft! Thanks very much. I'm going to be making my first set of raised panel doors for a Murphy bed and cabinets for our home, and am certain to use some of your tricks. Thanks, again!!
Thank you so much!
@@TheWoodCraftsman I completed all 14 panels for the project I'd mentioned, seven of which were arched. They turned out beautifully as you can see on my Instagram channel here: instagram.com/p/CO5ZEeuDuQa/ But, unfortunately, I had a problem with my spray booth as I mentioned there.
Thank you! You are a remarkable guy.
I really loved all you showed us here and please keep up the great work.
I've been making custom cabinets, molding and millwork for over 20 years and one thing about a lot of "how to" videos is that the majority of them fail to show or even mention the most important and time consuming step to building cabinet doors or moldings. The SET UP is the most important and and time consuming part of any build.
Its easy to just shove wood into the machine after its all set up and ready to go.
This is a prime example of how people who know nothing about the craft get the impression it just takes five minutes to build a door or cabinet and you are trying to over charge them for everything. I don't know how many times I have had someone say that they say a video on u-tube and it doesn't take any real skills or time at all to make something, that's when I tell them the door swings both ways to my shop..
So, not sure what exactly is being said here or how it's meant to be delivered, but this video is NOT a "How To" video as it clearly states in the beginning. Secondly, I put up content like this because I enjoy sharing with other's the art of cabinet making and wood finishing. If I showed all of the steps in one video with minimal editing, no one would be interested in it, and if I broke it up in to multiple parts, there's a very large chance that majority of the audience wouldn't watch them all anyways. The idea of me putting up the videos I produce is strictly fun and entertainment to share with others. I am by no means a videographer or editor. Woodworking has been my passion since I graduated high school and pursued a two year vocational education of cabinetmaking in my senior year over 25 years ago. So I don't disagree that the door swings both ways. We need to get paid for our services. Regards, Scott
Great video as always Scott. :-)
Gud vid.. im also using power feeder like u, but running with router table. The jig to placed end grain to cut the rail is a gud idea... tq bro...
+Khayrool Rosly, Thank you for the kind words. I appreciate it. Scott
"Spaceballs" Haha, May the schwartz be with you!
Thanks it really looks so great
+jorge Trejo Thanks. Scott
Hi thanks for putting your information
on UA-cam, I am interested in the fence you are using on your sharper.
Hi, not a problem. The cope and stick setup was something I built myself in the shop, after seeing a video on UA-cam. I later discovered the original system was designed and built by a company called Wynmatic. From the prices I saw compared to the time, effort, and materials I have invested in building my own, it would have been cheaper for me to buy it. Last I looked the coping jig was around $700-750. I don't remember exactly what the sticking setup was, but if I had to guess it was around $1800-2000. Thanks! Scott
Awesome video scott! Just got me a used delta 3hp shaper, tried making some raised panels with my freud ogee panel cutter and noticed some of the corner profiles are not uniform. Any advice on why this is happing? Thanks again for the videos that inspire us.
Thank you for the kind words! This is a common problem It can be a problem mostly depending on how the work piece is fed and supported. If you are cutting face down, it can be as simple as where the pressure is applied during the entrance and exit of the cut. Face up is a little more forgiving because you are actually forming the panel edge tongue thickness and supporting the backside through the cut, but you still can have an occasional uneven profile in the corners. There are a couple of things to look at: 1. how flat is the panel, 2) is a table insert around the spindle being used, and is it level with the cast iron table, 3) If you are using a power feeder, make sure the rollers are at least 1/4" lower than the thickness of the panel so it has adequate pressure, 4) also if using a power feeder, I prefer to have the middle tire dead center of the spindle so any cupped or warped panel cannot move when it enters or exits the cut. Unfortunately the more intricate the profile the more it may show up. Good luck. Scott
@@TheWoodCraftsman Thanks scott for the advice i appreciate it! I unfortunately do not have a stock feeder but looking to get one, but im just a part time woodworker/apprentice and found that the feeders sometimes cost more than the shapers lol. I will follow your instructions and see what results I get. Thanks again for taking the time to message back to me and look forward for more videos!
Hello, thanks for making these videos. I am starting out and was curious if you think knife marks per inch is really important? I’ve been reading a lot and of course I’ve not much experience. This panel you’re doing would equal out to 109 marks per inch, of course “standard” would say 20 per inch.. but your door seems fine. Haha, I’m going nuts here
Here is the thing with knife marks; in general I'm not concerned at all with them, just as long as you don't feel the ripple. If the tooling is sharp, the knife marks will buff out when sanding (for a raised pane). When I run cope and stick door frames, I run at 7000 rpm @ 26 FPM, and when I look at the edge in the light, its very faint if any. There are other factors that play in to consideration when it comes to knife marks; obviously rpm and feed speed are two of them, but the alignment of the carbide insert in parallel with one another and spindle runout are also factors
You listed many if your cutters as "custom". Where do you get custom cutters?
Do you mean the inserts are custom or the entire block the cutter inserts are mounted?
I'm going to be picking up a grizzly 3hp (probably smaller than yours) that goes up to 1" spindle.
Thanks for anything you can help me with.
The custom insert tooling is manufactured by Dimensions In Tooling in Granger Indiana. The tool body and inserts are custom. They do mostly custom, and all is made to order. They have a series of made to order profiles for cope and stick, raised panel, and outside door profile that will fit in a couple of universal heads that they manufacture that is designed to use heavy steel backers to support the carbide inserts. They can take any profile and modify it to your design and assign it a part number for you. No minimum order either. Very reasonable in cost. Scott
Do you have plans for your coping sled?
Good sir is that a shop made Outside (Outboard) Fence or is it a store purchased item that you installed onto the shaper table top that is holding your rails inplace under the power feeder? Thanks for any response. I just purchased my first shaper and I like those jigs you have , As a disabled veteran whom is getting back into woodworking to find a place to relax and create I like your setup plus I want to do my own cabinets for my own house. Where did you source the material if shop made if you don't mind me asking?
Hi! First of all.....THANK YOU for serving! So it's a shop built knock off of a commercial system made by Wynmatic Inc. I built it thinking it was cheaper than buying, but after all the materials and s&h charges, and the significant amount of time I spent on building the system, I could have bought it and been ahead. I sourced the materials from several places, such as eBay, McMaster Carr, and local hardware store. The materials are 6061 aluminum bar and round stock, HDPE plastic, polycarbonate, and some 80/20 aluminum extrusion (1x1). As I mentioned earlier, there's a significant investment in materials vs buying, if your time is of value to you, you might consider buying it if it's still available. Thanks. Scott
Try using some orange shellac on the doors prior to finishing them you'll get much less splotching, especially with maple.
Hi, thanks for the tip. The stain I used wasn't intended for the doors, just something I had of a color I liked. Normally I would spray on a solventborne dye stain followed by a weak wipe stain. Thanks. Scott
What a professional looking door! Always enjoy watching you videos.
What size material are you using for your raised panel? Looks like the front is flush.. Like how the back of the door looks like without the backcut grove. How do you accomplish that? Thanks
+Mark Matt Hi, thanks for the comment. All the materials for the frame and panel start at 13/16", however when we cut out and glue up the panels we surface plane down to 0.670". This will make the panel stand proud about a 1/32" so when the doors go through the wide belt sander (Timesaver 2300) it will ensure that the panel is sanded entirely across the entire surface and flush with the frame. The drawer front panels stay full thickness and are back cut but the panel is offset 1/32" to stand proud just like the doors for the same reason.
Thanks! Scott
Brilliant mate 👍 really efficient.
Love your jigs also, how did you fit your extrusion bars on the edge of your spindle moulder, great idea for fitting your jigs to
Hi, thank you for the kind words. The extrusions are mounted to the edge just with 1/4" bolts and some nylon spacers. The bolt head slips I'm the extrusions, and the nuts are in the inside edge of the underside of the table between the webbing. They are not perfectly in parallel with each other, so the outboard fence has had elongated holes to make it slide effortlessly. Thanks. Scott
where do you buy your custom shaper cutters?
Dimensions In Tooling Granger IN.
Wow ok so with those machines, you can do alot of profiling even jointing (as long as you have the right cutter) where did you custom order the cutters if you dont mind me asking? I am debating if i should get my self one of those shapers to help profiling furniture faster also nicer.
+///AMG Most of my tooling is from D.I.T. (Dimensions In Tooling) located in Granger Indiana. Average head cost is $375 + tips. Tips range from $15-20 each (× 3). A cope and stick set is around $800, raised panel cutter is around $450, and a door edge is around $360.
damn just for the cutters.. i cant find used machines here, hopefully one day. they are expensive brand new for a good one. have you ever heard on KING canada products?
+///AMG Just through UA-cam videos. I don't really know much about them though.
What kind of fastener are you using to pin the rail and stile?
Great video, thanks.
Todd Bailey Hi, thanks for the comment. I'm using a 1/2" 18 gauge headless pin in a refurbished Senco model "L" pin nailer. Thanks! Scott
What is the custom bit for the edge profile? Radius of the round over.
By the way great vid.
+Anthony P Hi, thanks for the comment. The shaper cutter is a custom insert tooling style head made by Dimensions In Tooling. Its a double roundover with a 0.760" opening with a 10 degree flare with a inside radius just shy of 1/8", 3.75" minor diameter with 1.25" bore. Thanks! Scott
I don't understand why people get in such an uproar about brushing glue anyway. If you have a loose fitting tenon than no amount of glue slathered evenly across it will make it any stronger anyway. It's meant to bond surfaces that are already mated and not fill gaps. I cringe when I see people use glue as a stop gap (pun intended).
NGinuity Hi, thanks for the comment. I agree. A lot of people don't realize that the glue itself shrinks a bit as the glue dries, so the term "gap filling" is kind of misleading. I think the reason some people insist on brushing glue in a cope and stick or mortise and tennon joint is because the end grain can soak it it up, however.....if the glue is spread with a descent bead with a bottle, the end grain factor is reduced greatly because the non spread bead has more mass and its not being spread out in a thin film, the thinner the bead or film, the faster it starts to set up the less work-ability one has. Thanks! Scott
Ok so dont take my comments in a negative way. If you are in business i think you would make more money to farm out your doors. Your processes are way too slow. Your shapers are not "heavy duty". Your cope jig is very slow. Get a Weaver air tenon jig is it very fast. Changeover is too slow to go to stick and what about other widths frame parts? Do you only offer 1or2profiles and thats it? Your panel raising would be faster and more accurate to back cut at the same time using a shaper cutter instead of a dado set. Get a EZ Ball spaceball gun. No need to take off 1/16 all the way around. Those shaper cutter machine marks need sanding anyways. Oh and your clamp up method is way too slow and not accurate enough as well. Get JLT door clamp. That didnt sound negative did it? Just the way i see it as being a small shop that only builds doors. Thanks for taking the time to make the vid. I do think every shop is diffirent. I just think you could be saving a LOT of time.
+jeremy s Well....,I'm not sure where to start here. You have pretty much cut my process apart. So I'm just going to explain each and every step. First off, I build my own doors for the cabinets we build, not for anyone else. Why do I build rather than buy, its simple. I have 100% control of the door and drawer front quality in material, grain matching, color, joints, profile quality (chatter / sanding), and surface preparation, not to mention I have control over a custom design with custom tooling, custom style and rail widths, 9 stock inside frame profiles, 7 panel profiles, and 4 outside profiles, not to mention I can have a custom designed profile to match an existing profile ( thats the beauty of insert tooling with multi profile bodies). So basically when we do a job and we order materials (sheet stock and solid stock) all of the face frames, doors, drawer fronts, toe board and anything else goes through the same sanding sequence so when we go to stain and finish it all stains up the same. The set-up is minimal because all the tooling have the exact same minor diameter, so profile changes are plug and play with no fence adjustment. The equipment used may not meet your classification of "heavy duty" but the Powermatic 26, 27, 27 power stack and the 27 super where the industry standard for many small shops for 20-30 years. No, they arn't a Wadkin, SCMI, Casedei, Northfield, or a Martin shaper, but they aren't your average DIYers shaper either. The change over you may think is slow, but remember, I'm coping and sticking on one shaper with no tooling change, and NO height or fence adjustment between coping and sticking. Maybe the coping jig is a little slow for you, but I find it very effective. Both the coping sled and sticking fence is a knock off of an existing system that retails for over $3,000, I just built mine to accommodate my specific needs. The frame width is 100% customizable. The only rabbeting I do is for the drawer front panels, and usually I have another small table saw set up with a power feed for that task. I will check out the EZ ball space ball gun, it souds like a good concept. I build my doors 1/8" oversize so I can remove the 1/16" all the way around the door on the door edge shaper to remove the saw marks. A profiled machined edge sands up much quicker than saw kerf marks. I will say a JLT door clamp would help, but, I start with a square joint in the coping sled first which helps the door square up nicely with no gaps, but it is in my wish list. Please keep in mind this particular video was for a new door style we added this year. Thanks!