Hi! Good chance you won’t see this comment but thank you so much for this video. I was cleaning my grandpa’s 11-87 he had given me and this made taking it apart and putting it together a breeze! Thank you!
Really enjoyed the thoroughness of the video series. You have given me several ideas for solving the problem I'm having with a Rem 1100 20 ga. replaced piston and piston seal, captured type, o-ring obviously, cleaned and polished butt-stock spring tube, put spring components through ultrasonic, cleaned and dry lubed outside of mag tube. On the barrel ports I just used solvent and a small spring-steel wire to make sure they were open. didn't ream. There may still be a little carbon. I'll double check that. I re-staked shell latch. I'll double check that to make sure I didn't raise any metal that could be impeding action from sliding freely. If you have any other ideas I'm open to suggestions. It cycles far enough to re-cock trigger, just not far enough to extract spent shell and chamber new round.
Gun is still short cycling. Is it a 2 3/4" gun or a 3" gun? and what ammunition are you running thru it? Is it an older Gun? If it is a 3" you will probably have to run heavy 3" loads the same with 2 3/4 heavy 2 3/4" loads. Promo loads from wall mart or any where else will probably not cycle it. It is most likely ammo related as the newer ammo"s don't have as much "powder" Lower pressures and a different pressure curve. If you are shooting steel shot the problem is aggrevated more as steel runs lower pressure. If you are using it for waterfowl out of a pit or pass shooting it may be a problem with your mount as it is hard to get a gun properly mounted high on your shoulder when shooting overhead and will cause short cycling.
Do have a question. I've got a 11-87 SP 12g. Chamber for 2 3/4, 3 and 3 1/2. Having problems cycling low brass dove loads. Fires 1rnd, at times won't cycle or will stove pipe. The bolt has locked to the rear without cycling next shell also. Field fix has been spraying light shot of lube in the action and then works fine for bit. Have cleaned the gun, issue is still intermittent. Nothing looks broken and the seal looks to be in good condition. It's VERY aggravating lol
The short answer is that yes the loads are to light to reliably function the gun. Read thru the comments and you will find that I have covered this before as it is a common problem with the guns that clain to work with 3 1/2" shells. I will probably shoot a short video of this problem. Thanks, Dan.
@@hillsgun definitely good to know. Thank you. Is there a load you'd recommend to try? Money is tight these days, so a good recommendation for a load to try would definitely help save a little cash.
Sorry but I don't have any good suggestions. A heavy field load will "probably " function the gun, but every one is different. Just try a middle of the road ammo and see what the gun likes. I am recording a video in the morning that will hopefully answer some of the most common issues I get asked about.
Excellent video really helped me out with my 11-87. Purchased used and my second season using it for dove it would not feed the second round. With this video i was able to give it a good cleaning and found the magazine tube looked like it had never been cleaned or touched. Had so much build up i feel this really had to be the problem. I'm hoping this simple cleaning was the issue with failing to feed. As the fired round would eject like normal and the second round would come out of the magazine tube but the bolt would stay locked back and the shell would not load it would just lay on/inside the trigger area. If the cleaning does not work would you have any recomendations for me as far as parts needed to be replaced? Thank you!!!!
The only thing that should need to be replaced is the o-ring seal. It sounds like the gun is short cycling which could just be caused by being dirty, just make sure the mag tube is clean and dry. No lube in that area. Thanks, Dan.
Thanks this was a huge help! Concise and straight to the point. I have a question if you have time. I have a damaged action bar, the part that the bolt rides on had a piece break off, putting my 20 Ga. out of commission. Midway has the action bar but I need to know the best way to separate the action bar sleeve from the action bar, thanks for the great videos! PS, Hope You and Yours have a Merry Christmas! & a Great New Year!
You will probably have to work with it to find the best way to get it off of the action bar. They are spring steel so you can carefully pry on it. I have been able to work them so they will slide rearward on the rails if you can get the bottom tab over the bolt plate, but I have also been able to get one of the ears over one of the rails then it is easy to remove. I honestly don't know what Remington recommends..
@@hillsgun Thank You, it looked pretty straight forward but I wasn't sure. the part from Midway is on back order so I'll be using my Red Label Over/Under for a while. never hurts to have a spare weapon! Thanks Again!
Yes, the 11-87, while still a good gun is now becoming an older design and as they wear they begin to loose some tolerances which can cause function issues, combine that with the fact that most ammo is built as cheaply as possible from the manufacturers (read that as not as much powder). Most semiautomatic Guns will not function with the inexpensive promo ammo from the big box stores, you will probably have to go to a heavy field load to get reliable function and if you are shooting steel you will probably need a magnum load since steel loads run lower pressure.
@@hillsgun Great info. I just had an 11-87 given to me for the price of shipping, because of the bolt not staying open after the last shell was shot. So great information, much appreciated.
excellent. Are you a teacher as well? You're a natural. How often should the action spring (not the magazine spring) be replaced? I have an 11-87 Premier (c1998) that was shot a great deal through about 2005. but not as much over the last 15 years.
Hi Bob: Thank you but no, not really a teacher. My attitude towards action springs is unless the gun is giving problems then leave it alone. I have seen some that are running fine with the original spring and when changed out they would not function and also just the opposite. If the gun is clean and oiled properly it is usually an ammunition problem rather than a gun problem. The trend is to manufacture ammunition less expensively (less powder, cheaper components) which often does not have enough power or the wrong pressure curve to properly cycle the gun.
Would you recommend buying the 20 gauge 1187 Economy version now being sold? Has a plastic trigger guard but still everything else is as it was. 3 inch TSS loads ought to make it a goose capable hunting shotgun also shouldn't it?
The 11-87 is one of Remington's better designs for the currently available ammunition and functionality of their gun offerings ,if the 20 guage will fill your needs for geese is a decision you will have to make.Personally I am more in favor of the 12.
What do you think about the practice of not letting the bolt slam home without a shell? As in riding the bolt, and easing it forward. Only letting it fly when there is a shell to be chambered. Could it potentially cause issues letting it slam?
I personally don't consider it to be an issue, if it does cause problems then I feel that there are other problems such as excessive wear or a design flaw, or poor heat treat with some firearms manufacturers.
Hey i have a 1187 and its best shotgun ive ever owned or shot and the interceptor latch broke the solder didnt hold up from factory and im wondering if theres any easy fixes to this or if i have to send it out i have the latch still and the circle clip and ive found the parts online but im not sure if i could just put a pin through it or if its got to be sent out? Could please give me some advice?
I assume you are referring to the interceoptor latch pivot stud and I must admit that I have never seen one fail. You will have to find someone qualified to silver solder it, refit, and reblue the receiver for it to be correct. Previously if it was not a repair I was willing to do I would recommend sending it to Remington, but since they have closed their doors I would find one of their authorized repair stations (when they were still in business)and have them do the repair .
@@hillsgun yeah thats it it was a display gun when i bought it and i used it for about 2 or 3 years with no issues then one day i was out shooting and it suddenly stopped working i called around to alot of places i live in upstate new york and no one will touch it they all said that a certified remington gunsmith has to do the work and i finally found a shop that will do the work its a about a hour and a half away and its going to cost a couple hundred dollars to get fixed but itll be worth it.
I run everything thru either the solvent tank or my small ultrasonic cleaner(minus the stock) no answer for how long as it depends on what solvents you are using
@@hillsgun thanks. I actually own an ultra sonic cleaner. What do you use for the liquid medium? I've seen some videos using water and simple green. I'm ignorant and new to guns but wouldn't water be a poor choice? Do you have a video?
I am somewhat old school when it comes to guns and the gun industry. For the most part I don't see many current production firearms, and no US manufactured that impress me. The current offerings are quite simply not well designed or built. The current mindset is to produce as quickly and cheaply as possible such as plastic trigger guards and frames. Don't get me wrong as they have their place but the craftsmanship that goes into a firearm that will last thru many generations of a family and can still be appreciated as being great grandpa's gun is gone.
Thank you, The staking tool is one that used to be offered commercially, I don't know if they are still available. the one I am using is shop built. It has the jaws ground smooth and parallel and is drilled to accept a hardened pin which does the actual staking.
everything should be solid once the gun is assembled and the bolt is closed, with the bolt open the internals on the magazine tube may rattle when it is first put together
I found this video while doing some research for my 11-87. My gun will cycle an empty out and load a new shell in but does not load enough to activate firing pin. New shell loads into barrel and firearm doesn’t even click. If I pull action back and let go the firing pin will engage and let me fire. Am I having an Action spring issue?
The gun is short cycling, chances are either the loads are to light or you are not holding the gun tight enough into your shoulder. I just finished a fairly in depth response in the comments section of one of the videos in this series explaining this problem. If you can't find my earlier response let me know and I will look it up. Thanks, Dan.
@@hillsgun I know the loads aren't light. I've shot everything from dove loads to buckshot out of it. And ive fired probably 5000 rounds through it if that makes a difference on wear and tear.
@@chanceehuiet I still doubt that anything is worn or broken although the gas rings may be showing some wear and is the seal good? I usually find if a gun has been used a lot that it is normally a cleaning issue if the earlier has been ruled out, magazine tube where the action bar slides over clean and dry, gas ports clean and not carboned up, chamber clean with no corossion would be where I would probably look.
@@hillsgun 10-4. I cleaned it like I normally do after a shooting but I will break it down more and give it a more thorough cleaning and hope that works. You gave me some hope for an easy fix. Thank you.
I have a fairly recent 11-87 (about 3 years old). The guns has the combined seal and it has worked flawlessly through thousands of rounds of trap and skeet. If Remington has discontinued the combined seal, it would have had to have happened within the last three years.
I Have had mixed results with the combined seal system. The 3 year time frame would be about right, I did not check directly with Remington, but when I checked with one of the distributors I use they showed the combined system as being discontinued by the manufacturer and the 2 pieces as available. My speculation is that either the combined rings didn't perform over the entire range of guns which I suspect is the case from my personal experience with them, or it is possible that it was cheaper to offer the 2 pieces which are universal in the remington line. If you are primarily using yours as a trap and skeet gun you have probably fed it a fairly steady diet of fairly mild loads while another shooter may be feeding their gun a steady diet of 3" magnum steel loads for waterfowl. They may very well be hammering their gun apart and excessivly be eroding away their gas system so their results may well be different from yours.
My intent was to use the gun for a multitude of purposes, including slugs and potentially waterfowl. In fact, I just got back from a deer hunting trip. Would you recommend going to the 2 piece seal or leaving things as they are?
If it is working don't change it. My intent was not to say it is necessarily bad, just that there are so many variables that what may work for one won't necessarily work for all. I tend to be hard on gun manufacturers because the quality which was once put into a gun has now in a very large part gone away and what is being produced now is done as cheaply as possible. We have replaced craftsmanship with engineering which may or may not work in the real world and I thing the captive seal system may be one of those items as it does work, and in your case is working well, I just don't beleive it works in all guns as intended so now instead of refining it they have apparently discontinued it. The forend that I fitted in the first video of this series is another example of our mass produced mentality by gun manufacturers. It was a very nice forend with good wood and the finish was well done, the only problem with it was that it didn't fit. I had never seen one machined so far out of tolerence and it should have never made it to the consumer. anyway I am now done with my rant. If yours is working fine don't break it by trying to make it better. Dan.
Dan: I looked it up and the current 11-87 Owners manual still reflects the use of the one piece piston/seal. However, Brownells shows only the two piece. So, I'm confused. To your point; My daughter was given my brother's 870 Wingmaster built in '77. The gun only had about 10 rounds put through it before she was given the gun. The difference in the quality of that gun vs the Remington's of today is staggering. That being said, my relatively new 11-87 has performed without a hitch so, I really can't complain. Personally, I like synthetic stocks vs wood stocks due to their durability in harsh conditions. Mine happens to be a synthetic stock with rubber inserts in the fore-end and pistol grip area. I also own a model 700 built in '68. Again, the difference from that Remington to those build today is mind-boggling.
Yea: It will only become an issue for you if yours reaches the point where it needs to be replaced so just enjoy the gun, I consider myself to be old school concerning guns as I have delt with them for a lot of years if it ain't broke don't fix it. someone always has some new snake oil to sell you, it doesn't matter if they are a gun manufacturer, Retail shop or gunsmith so do your due dilligence before buying into anyones recomendations including mine. As far as stocks I am a wood guy. I have some synthetics, but every old gun has a story to tell and a wood stock and condition of the metal helps me to read the story plus I think it looks and feels better to my soul. Dan.
I have an 1187 special purpose. I was told that something had to be done to make it shoot 3.5 in shells. Can you tell me what needs to be done. Also what size oring is used.
I bought an 1187 police brand new in 2007. After about 5 years I bought a new barrel with rifle sights to replace the bead sight barrel. About 3 months ago I bought an 1187 premier complete action on gunbroker. I put a new stock an forend on it and the bead sight police barrel. I took the premier out and put 50 rounds of slugs and buckshot through it and it ran perfect. The question I have is this. When I pull the bolt back on the police it goes back ALL THE WAY. When I pull the bolt back on the premier it goes back ALMOST all the way and locks. Then if I pull it back another 1/2 inch it locks again. I have switched out all the parts on both. What I have found is the link is the culprit. When I switch the links it does it in the police but not the premier. The links seem to be identical. I am going to buy a new link. Is there any thing you might know about why this is happening.
not certain, but there are a couple of things I would check. Are they both 3" guns? are the action springs the same lengths" it almost sounds like there is a spring stack up happening. Also the link may be binding on the edge of the action spring tube. It may be rubbing enough to be giving the impression that it is locking back earlier when in reality it may be binding between the bottom of the link and the edge of the action tube. Dan
Thank you for your prompt reply. I ripped both guns apart and found that the link in the premier was not true or warped or bent. The tips of the link were not hitting each other when put into the action spring follower. They passed each other and caused the link to constrict more than it is supposed to. I tried bending it but couldn't get it to work the way its supposed to. I will buy a new link and the problem will be solved. Sure would like to chat with you sometime if that's possible. I love my 1187 police !!!
I just gave it a thorough cleaning so I hope it works I also changed the O-ring. I live in the SF bay area so it’s going to be a little while before I could shoot it again.
@@martymarfishhunt3622 probably ammo is to light, it may cycle the steel shot load but I really don't expect it to function the dove and quail. I didn't ask but I assume it is a 3" gun? even though they advertise as shooting 2 3/4 with todays loads they realistically won't. dove and quail is a light load and doesn't develop enough pressure to cycle the actions of most auto's and even though the steel pheasant load is advertised as high velocity it is a relative term used by the manufacturers and gains that velocity with powder selection which will produce velocity, but not necessarily the pressures necessary for function. Steel loads normally run lower pressure levels than an equivelant lead load
@@hillsgun thank you for getting back to me . I will try some different loads I bought this probably 20 years ago brand new and never had malfunctions and I used the lighter loads. Yes it is 3 inch by the way. Ok hope it works thanks again.
Could be several different things, but most commonly it is related to the intercepter latch. Spring on the intercepter latch may be out of position , broken or missing, Latch may be broken or missing, or the c clip that retains it may be missing in which case the latch may also be gone.
It seems to me that there are fewer gunsmiths these days but more people are owning firearms. May I ask if you just got tired of gunsmithing or did it become unprofitable. I had a difficult time finding a gunsmith to put a new trigger in my Ruger M77.
There are fewer good gunsmiths and there are several reasons for that.. probably first and foremost is government control at all levels of government, next is the firearms manufacturers really don't want anyone else working on their products both from a liability standpoint and they would like to have the revenue from any billable repairs so in many instances they will not supply parts. Gunsmithing has never been an extremely proffitable enterprise because good gunsmiths tend to be better craftsmen than businessmen and usually spend to much time talking to customers when they should be practicing their craft. And finally customers tend to not always be the most responsible when it comes to promptly picking up and paying for repairs or upgrades so a business which is usually relativly low profit with high equipment and tooling cost is quite often stretched beyond viability. For me it was profitable enough and I anticipated being able to at least sit at my workbench and tinker on thru my elderly years.when you weigh that against a female ATF agent who was trying to make a name for herself at the end of our previous administration 4 years ago it was not worth it. When you are given paperwork violations for logbook entries such as SW for Smith and Wesson (the acceptable entries were S&W or Smith & Wesson) or POBox (the acceptable entriy was P.O.Box) At that point I was tired of gunsmithing for the public. I now have other business investments, lots of my own gun projects, and get to play here on u-tube.
@@hillsgun Thanks for the answer. Very nice of you. Before i lost my job back in May I worked in an office building where the local ATF was also officed. I heard them talking about hassling people and saw them in undercover clothes. I respect law enforcement but they often cross the line. I wasn't aware they regulated gunsmiths but the government seems to be in everyone's business these days.
@@larrymor there is of course a deeper story with this instance that I may at some point cover in detail, but I will say that in my 30 plus years of dealing with ATF I may not have liked what they told me but I was always treated fairly and in most instances they were trying to help me while still doing their jobs. In this last instance there was nothing fair or just about it. The sole purpose was for this agent to further her career and to close liscensed gun shops. What they failed to realize is that they alienated a valuable resource because all the shops they treated this way were no longer willing to help them beyond what was mandated beyond the letter of the law.
yes I have been producing a 1100/11-87 buttstock socket which I have been very happy with. I have another run machined but they have not been blued yet. I will try and get them posted on the website next week. Everything I have produced to date has been sold thru a distributor but that contract has been filled so I can now put them on my website. Thanks, Dan.
Just recently my 11-87 has been having the lifter get stuck randomly could be second shot could 150th shot but the small square which pivots up or down seems to be the issue. When it gets stuck I open the action and use my pinky to push the small square down then I can get the lifter to move up freely. Is it a spring issue?
Hard to know for certain without having it in my hands.Is it a 3"gun? It is more likely that it is a combination of ammunition, to light and if the gun is dirty it will short cycle and can hang which is most likely the case, to heavy a load will sometimes display similar symptoms by cycling to quickly and it doesn't have time to complete the feeding cycle. 3 and 3 1/2 inch guns are more prone to function problems with lighter loads and when shooting steel shot as steel usually runs lower pressure.
The bolt latch is probably broken it is the part that is attached to the lifter close to the front of the trigger guard. They will brake the tab on the inside
Hi! Good chance you won’t see this comment but thank you so much for this video. I was cleaning my grandpa’s 11-87 he had given me and this made taking it apart and putting it together a breeze! Thank you!
You are certainly welcome
Great set of videos, I bought a used police 11-87 that had to have 20+ years of gunk, going to get some new seals for it.
Thanks, good luck with it.
The best videos I've found by far on this subject! Thank you sir
thank you, Dan.
I found Parts 1, 2, and 3 to all be useful and very informative as I am currently installing a new receiver on an 11-87. Thanks, good job!!!
thank you
I’ve got to install a new interceptor latch and spring, any suggestions on this piece?
@@waynejenkins6259 straightforward install, make sure the retainer is seated correctly otherwise it will pop off and you will lose the parts
Great video, thanks for sharing.
thanks Ken
Great video, thanks for taking the time!
my pleasure, Thanks
Great Video Brother The Best video on the 1100 I've seen Thanks
Appreciate that
Thx for sharing your knowledge. Great video and info.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent tutorial!
thank you, I appreciate it.
Really enjoyed the thoroughness of the video series. You have given me several ideas for solving the problem I'm having with a Rem 1100 20 ga. replaced piston and piston seal, captured type, o-ring obviously, cleaned and polished butt-stock spring tube, put spring components through ultrasonic, cleaned and dry lubed outside of mag tube. On the barrel ports I just used solvent and a small spring-steel wire to make sure they were open. didn't ream. There may still be a little carbon. I'll double check that. I re-staked shell latch. I'll double check that to make sure I didn't raise any metal that could be impeding action from sliding freely. If you have any other ideas I'm open to suggestions. It cycles far enough to re-cock trigger, just not far enough to extract spent shell and chamber new round.
Gun is still short cycling. Is it a 2 3/4" gun or a 3" gun? and what ammunition are you running thru it? Is it an older Gun? If it is a 3" you will probably have to run heavy 3" loads the same with 2 3/4 heavy 2 3/4" loads. Promo loads from wall mart or any where else will probably not cycle it. It is most likely ammo related as the newer ammo"s don't have as much "powder" Lower pressures and a different pressure curve. If you are shooting steel shot the problem is aggrevated more as steel runs lower pressure. If you are using it for waterfowl out of a pit or pass shooting it may be a problem with your mount as it is hard to get a gun properly mounted high on your shoulder when shooting overhead and will cause short cycling.
Do have a question. I've got a 11-87 SP 12g. Chamber for 2 3/4, 3 and 3 1/2. Having problems cycling low brass dove loads. Fires 1rnd, at times won't cycle or will stove pipe. The bolt has locked to the rear without cycling next shell also. Field fix has been spraying light shot of lube in the action and then works fine for bit. Have cleaned the gun, issue is still intermittent. Nothing looks broken and the seal looks to be in good condition. It's VERY aggravating lol
Could the load just be too light for the gun maybe?
Load was a Remington 2 3/4 1oz 8shot game load
The short answer is that yes the loads are to light to reliably function the gun. Read thru the comments and you will find that I have covered this before as it is a common problem with the guns that clain to work with 3 1/2" shells. I will probably shoot a short video of this problem. Thanks, Dan.
@@hillsgun definitely good to know. Thank you. Is there a load you'd recommend to try? Money is tight these days, so a good recommendation for a load to try would definitely help save a little cash.
Sorry but I don't have any good suggestions. A heavy field load will "probably " function the gun, but every one is different. Just try a middle of the road ammo and see what the gun likes. I am recording a video in the morning that will hopefully answer some of the most common issues I get asked about.
Great video series, thanks!
my pleasure, Thanks
Great video thank you!
thanks.
Very informative!! 👍🇺🇸
thank you.
Excellent video really helped me out with my 11-87. Purchased used and my second season using it for dove it would not feed the second round. With this video i was able to give it a good cleaning and found the magazine tube looked like it had never been cleaned or touched. Had so much build up i feel this really had to be the problem. I'm hoping this simple cleaning was the issue with failing to feed. As the fired round would eject like normal and the second round would come out of the magazine tube but the bolt would stay locked back and the shell would not load it would just lay on/inside the trigger area. If the cleaning does not work would you have any recomendations for me as far as parts needed to be replaced? Thank you!!!!
The only thing that should need to be replaced is the o-ring seal. It sounds like the gun is short cycling which could just be caused by being dirty, just make sure the mag tube is clean and dry. No lube in that area. Thanks, Dan.
Thank you
you are certainly welcome, Glad I could help
Thank you great video….
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks this was a huge help! Concise and straight to the point. I have a question if you have time. I have a damaged action bar, the part that the bolt rides on had a piece break off, putting my 20 Ga. out of commission. Midway has the action bar but I need to know the best way to separate the action bar sleeve from the action bar, thanks for the great videos! PS, Hope You and Yours have a Merry Christmas! & a Great New Year!
You will probably have to work with it to find the best way to get it off of the action bar. They are spring steel so you can carefully pry on it. I have been able to work them so they will slide rearward on the rails if you can get the bottom tab over the bolt plate, but I have also been able to get one of the ears over one of the rails then it is easy to remove. I honestly don't know what Remington recommends..
@@hillsgun Thank You, it looked pretty straight forward but I wasn't sure. the part from Midway is on back order so I'll be using my Red Label Over/Under for a while. never hurts to have a spare weapon! Thanks Again!
What could be the cause pf a 11-87 12 ga. that the bolt won't stay open after the last round is spent. great Video's, and Thanks
Ammunition to light is the most common cause, gun could be dirty, make sure the outside of the magazine tube is clean and dry
@@hillsgun Could this be true with Factory ammo as well?.
Yes, the 11-87, while still a good gun is now becoming an older design and as they wear they begin to loose some tolerances which can cause function issues, combine that with the fact that most ammo is built as cheaply as possible from the manufacturers (read that as not as much powder). Most semiautomatic Guns will not function with the inexpensive promo ammo from the big box stores, you will probably have to go to a heavy field load to get reliable function and if you are shooting steel you will probably need a magnum load since steel loads run lower pressure.
@@hillsgun Great info. I just had an 11-87 given to me for the price of shipping, because of the bolt not staying open after the last shell was shot. So great information, much appreciated.
excellent. Are you a teacher as well? You're a natural.
How often should the action spring (not the magazine spring) be replaced? I have an 11-87 Premier (c1998) that was shot a great deal through about 2005. but not as much over the last 15 years.
Hi Bob: Thank you but no, not really a teacher. My attitude towards action springs is unless the gun is giving problems then leave it alone. I have seen some that are running fine with the original spring and when changed out they would not function and also just the opposite. If the gun is clean and oiled properly it is usually an ammunition problem rather than a gun problem. The trend is to manufacture ammunition less expensively (less powder, cheaper components) which often does not have enough power or the wrong pressure curve to properly cycle the gun.
Would you recommend buying the 20 gauge 1187 Economy version now being sold? Has a plastic trigger guard but still everything else is as it was. 3 inch TSS loads ought to make it a goose capable hunting shotgun also shouldn't it?
The 11-87 is one of Remington's better designs for the currently available ammunition and functionality of their gun offerings ,if the 20 guage will fill your needs for geese is a decision you will have to make.Personally I am more in favor of the 12.
What do you think about the practice of not letting the bolt slam home without a shell? As in riding the bolt, and easing it forward. Only letting it fly when there is a shell to be chambered. Could it potentially cause issues letting it slam?
I personally don't consider it to be an issue, if it does cause problems then I feel that there are other problems such as excessive wear or a design flaw, or poor heat treat with some firearms manufacturers.
thanks
You're welcome!
Thank you ...
Do you know the remmington part number for the police style shell lifter ...???
I don't know that there is a specific part for that application
Hey i have a 1187 and its best shotgun ive ever owned or shot and the interceptor latch broke the solder didnt hold up from factory and im wondering if theres any easy fixes to this or if i have to send it out i have the latch still and the circle clip and ive found the parts online but im not sure if i could just put a pin through it or if its got to be sent out? Could please give me some advice?
I assume you are referring to the interceoptor latch pivot stud and I must admit that I have never seen one fail. You will have to find someone qualified to silver solder it, refit, and reblue the receiver for it to be correct. Previously if it was not a repair I was willing to do I would recommend sending it to Remington, but since they have closed their doors I would find one of their authorized repair stations (when they were still in business)and have them do the repair .
@@hillsgun yeah thats it it was a display gun when i bought it and i used it for about 2 or 3 years with no issues then one day i was out shooting and it suddenly stopped working i called around to alot of places i live in upstate new york and no one will touch it they all said that a certified remington gunsmith has to do the work and i finally found a shop that will do the work its a about a hour and a half away and its going to cost a couple hundred dollars to get fixed but itll be worth it.
So did you put all of the parts minis the stock into the solvent tank? How long if you don't mind me asking?
I run everything thru either the solvent tank or my small ultrasonic cleaner(minus the stock) no answer for how long as it depends on what solvents you are using
@@hillsgun thanks. I actually own an ultra sonic cleaner. What do you use for the liquid medium? I've seen some videos using water and simple green. I'm ignorant and new to guns but wouldn't water be a poor choice? Do you have a video?
Would love to see a video on the disassembly and reassembly of the Rem 1100 trigger group . There are no videos to be found anywhere.
What are your thoughts on the Remington V3 design with not items in the wood behind the receiver. Good design?!?!
I am somewhat old school when it comes to guns and the gun industry. For the most part I don't see many current production firearms, and no US manufactured that impress me. The current offerings are quite simply not well designed or built. The current mindset is to produce as quickly and cheaply as possible such as plastic trigger guards and frames. Don't get me wrong as they have their place but the craftsmanship that goes into a firearm that will last thru many generations of a family and can still be appreciated as being great grandpa's gun is gone.
Nice video series for the 1187. I just picked one up and the shell latch fell out. How did You re-stake it in with the vise grip?
Thank you, The staking tool is one that used to be offered commercially, I don't know if they are still available. the one I am using is shop built. It has the jaws ground smooth and parallel and is drilled to accept a hardened pin which does the actual staking.
Is it common for the for-end support to slide freely after the gun is fully reassembled
everything should be solid once the gun is assembled and the bolt is closed, with the bolt open the internals on the magazine tube may rattle when it is first put together
I found this video while doing some research for my 11-87. My gun will cycle an empty out and load a new shell in but does not load enough to activate firing pin. New shell loads into barrel and firearm doesn’t even click. If I pull action back and let go the firing pin will engage and let me fire. Am I having an Action spring issue?
The gun is short cycling, chances are either the loads are to light or you are not holding the gun tight enough into your shoulder. I just finished a fairly in depth response in the comments section of one of the videos in this series explaining this problem. If you can't find my earlier response let me know and I will look it up. Thanks, Dan.
@@hillsgun I know the loads aren't light. I've shot everything from dove loads to buckshot out of it. And ive fired probably 5000 rounds through it if that makes a difference on wear and tear.
@@chanceehuiet I still doubt that anything is worn or broken although the gas rings may be showing some wear and is the seal good? I usually find if a gun has been used a lot that it is normally a cleaning issue if the earlier has been ruled out, magazine tube where the action bar slides over clean and dry, gas ports clean and not carboned up, chamber clean with no corossion would be where I would probably look.
@@hillsgun 10-4. I cleaned it like I normally do after a shooting but I will break it down more and give it a more thorough cleaning and hope that works. You gave me some hope for an easy fix. Thank you.
I have a fairly recent 11-87 (about 3 years old). The guns has the combined seal and it has worked flawlessly through thousands of rounds of trap and skeet. If Remington has discontinued the combined seal, it would have had to have happened within the last three years.
I Have had mixed results with the combined seal system. The 3 year time frame would be about right, I did not check directly with Remington, but when I checked with one of the distributors I use they showed the combined system as being discontinued by the manufacturer and the 2 pieces as available. My speculation is that either the combined rings didn't perform over the entire range of guns which I suspect is the case from my personal experience with them, or it is possible that it was cheaper to offer the 2 pieces which are universal in the remington line. If you are primarily using yours as a trap and skeet gun you have probably fed it a fairly steady diet of fairly mild loads while another shooter may be feeding their gun a steady diet of 3" magnum steel loads for waterfowl. They may very well be hammering their gun apart and excessivly be eroding away their gas system so their results may well be different from yours.
My intent was to use the gun for a multitude of purposes, including slugs and potentially waterfowl. In fact, I just got back from a deer hunting trip. Would you recommend going to the 2 piece seal or leaving things as they are?
If it is working don't change it. My intent was not to say it is necessarily bad, just that there are so many variables that what may work for one won't necessarily work for all. I tend to be hard on gun manufacturers because the quality which was once put into a gun has now in a very large part gone away and what is being produced now is done as cheaply as possible. We have replaced craftsmanship with engineering which may or may not work in the real world and I thing the captive seal system may be one of those items as it does work, and in your case is working well, I just don't beleive it works in all guns as intended so now instead of refining it they have apparently discontinued it. The forend that I fitted in the first video of this series is another example of our mass produced mentality by gun manufacturers. It was a very nice forend with good wood and the finish was well done, the only problem with it was that it didn't fit. I had never seen one machined so far out of tolerence and it should have never made it to the consumer. anyway I am now done with my rant. If yours is working fine don't break it by trying to make it better. Dan.
Dan: I looked it up and the current 11-87 Owners manual still reflects the use of the one piece piston/seal. However, Brownells shows only the two piece. So, I'm confused.
To your point; My daughter was given my brother's 870 Wingmaster built in '77. The gun only had about 10 rounds put through it before she was given the gun. The difference in the quality of that gun vs the Remington's of today is staggering.
That being said, my relatively new 11-87 has performed without a hitch so, I really can't complain. Personally, I like synthetic stocks vs wood stocks due to their durability in harsh conditions. Mine happens to be a synthetic stock with rubber inserts in the fore-end and pistol grip area.
I also own a model 700 built in '68. Again, the difference from that Remington to those build today is mind-boggling.
Yea: It will only become an issue for you if yours reaches the point where it needs to be replaced so just enjoy the gun, I consider myself to be old school concerning guns as I have delt with them for a lot of years if it ain't broke don't fix it. someone always has some new snake oil to sell you, it doesn't matter if they are a gun manufacturer, Retail shop or gunsmith so do your due dilligence before buying into anyones recomendations including mine. As far as stocks I am a wood guy. I have some synthetics, but every old gun has a story to tell and a wood stock and condition of the metal helps me to read the story plus I think it looks and feels better to my soul. Dan.
I have an 1187 special purpose. I was told that something had to be done to make it shoot 3.5 in shells. Can you tell me what needs to be done. Also what size oring is used.
Is it a 3 1/2 inch gun now or is it a 3 inch? It uses the standard Remington o rino
It's a 3.5 gun
@@chrisclark5440 then it should function fine with 3 1/2 inch shells, most of the problems occur when you try and shoot the shorter shells.
Ok thanks for your help
I bought an 1187 police brand new in 2007. After about 5 years I bought a new barrel with rifle sights to replace the bead sight barrel. About 3 months ago I bought an 1187 premier complete action on gunbroker. I put a new stock an forend on it and the bead sight police barrel. I took the premier out and put 50 rounds of slugs and buckshot through it and it ran perfect. The question I have is this. When I pull the bolt back on the police it goes back ALL THE WAY. When I pull the bolt back on the premier it goes back ALMOST all the way and locks. Then if I pull it back another 1/2 inch it locks again. I have switched out all the parts on both. What I have found is the link is the culprit. When I switch the links it does it in the police but not the premier. The links seem to be identical. I am going to buy a new link. Is there any thing you might know about why this is happening.
not certain, but there are a couple of things I would check. Are they both 3" guns? are the action springs the same lengths" it almost sounds like there is a spring stack up happening. Also the link may be binding on the edge of the action spring tube. It may be rubbing enough to be giving the impression that it is locking back earlier when in reality it may be binding between the bottom of the link and the edge of the action tube. Dan
Thank you for your prompt reply. I ripped both guns apart and found that the link in the premier was not true or warped or bent. The tips of the link were not hitting each other when put into the action spring follower. They passed each other and caused the link to constrict more than it is supposed to. I tried bending it but couldn't get it to work the way its supposed to. I will buy a new link and the problem will be solved. Sure would like to chat with you sometime if that's possible. I love my 1187 police !!!
Good video what if I’ve done all that and after I fire my first shell it doesn’t feed the second one in? What could this be?
what ammo?
The remington dove and quail load and Winchester pheasant steel shot high velocity 2 3/4 1 oz #7
I just gave it a thorough cleaning so I hope it works I also changed the O-ring. I live in the SF bay area so it’s going to be a little while before I could shoot it again.
@@martymarfishhunt3622 probably ammo is to light, it may cycle the steel shot load but I really don't expect it to function the dove and quail. I didn't ask but I assume it is a 3" gun? even though they advertise as shooting 2 3/4 with todays loads they realistically won't. dove and quail is a light load and doesn't develop enough pressure to cycle the actions of most auto's and even though the steel pheasant load is advertised as high velocity it is a relative term used by the manufacturers and gains that velocity with powder selection which will produce velocity, but not necessarily the pressures necessary for function. Steel loads normally run lower pressure levels than an equivelant lead load
@@hillsgun thank you for getting back to me . I will try some different loads I bought this probably 20 years ago brand new and never had malfunctions and I used the lighter loads. Yes it is 3 inch by the way. Ok hope it works thanks again.
1187 bolt wont lock back per loading tube. and wont lock back after shells are spent.... ideas ? Thanks
Could be several different things, but most commonly it is related to the intercepter latch. Spring on the intercepter latch may be out of position , broken or missing, Latch may be broken or missing, or the c clip that retains it may be missing in which case the latch may also be gone.
How tight should the bolt handle be to pull out.
it varies but it needs to be secure so that it won't get lost in the field, but it still should pull out with moderate force.
It seems to me that there are fewer gunsmiths these days but more people are owning firearms. May I ask if you just got tired of gunsmithing or did it become unprofitable. I had a difficult time finding a gunsmith to put a new trigger in my Ruger M77.
There are fewer good gunsmiths and there are several reasons for that.. probably first and foremost is government control at all levels of government, next is the firearms manufacturers really don't want anyone else working on their products both from a liability standpoint and they would like to have the revenue from any billable repairs so in many instances they will not supply parts. Gunsmithing has never been an extremely proffitable enterprise because good gunsmiths tend to be better craftsmen than businessmen and usually spend to much time talking to customers when they should be practicing their craft. And finally customers tend to not always be the most responsible when it comes to promptly picking up and paying for repairs or upgrades so a business which is usually relativly low profit with high equipment and tooling cost is quite often stretched beyond viability. For me it was profitable enough and I anticipated being able to at least sit at my workbench and tinker on thru my elderly years.when you weigh that against a female ATF agent who was trying to make a name for herself at the end of our previous administration 4 years ago it was not worth it. When you are given paperwork violations for logbook entries such as SW for Smith and Wesson (the acceptable entries were S&W or Smith & Wesson) or POBox (the acceptable entriy was P.O.Box) At that point I was tired of gunsmithing for the public. I now have other business investments, lots of my own gun projects, and get to play here on u-tube.
@@hillsgun Thanks for the answer. Very nice of you. Before i lost my job back in May I worked in an office building where the local ATF was also officed. I heard them talking about hassling people and saw them in undercover clothes. I respect law enforcement but they often cross the line. I wasn't aware they regulated gunsmiths but the government seems to be in everyone's business these days.
@@larrymor there is of course a deeper story with this instance that I may at some point cover in detail, but I will say that in my 30 plus years of dealing with ATF I may not have liked what they told me but I was always treated fairly and in most instances they were trying to help me while still doing their jobs. In this last instance there was nothing fair or just about it. The sole purpose was for this agent to further her career and to close liscensed gun shops. What they failed to realize is that they alienated a valuable resource because all the shops they treated this way were no longer willing to help them beyond what was mandated beyond the letter of the law.
Is it normal for the gas cylinder collar to rattle after cleaning
Yes , it is normally floating on most guns
Did you ever make your tool to remove the butt stock?
yes I have been producing a 1100/11-87 buttstock socket which I have been very happy with. I have another run machined but they have not been blued yet. I will try and get them posted on the website next week. Everything I have produced to date has been sold thru a distributor but that contract has been filled so I can now put them on my website. Thanks, Dan.
Just recently my 11-87 has been having the lifter get stuck randomly could be second shot could 150th shot but the small square which pivots up or down seems to be the issue. When it gets stuck I open the action and use my pinky to push the small square down then I can get the lifter to move up freely. Is it a spring issue?
Hard to know for certain without having it in my hands.Is it a 3"gun? It is more likely that it is a combination of ammunition, to light and if the gun is dirty it will short cycle and can hang which is most likely the case, to heavy a load will sometimes display similar symptoms by cycling to quickly and it doesn't have time to complete the feeding cycle. 3 and 3 1/2 inch guns are more prone to function problems with lighter loads and when shooting steel shot as steel usually runs lower pressure.
OK, I stated the incorrect information, in a sense. The Bolt won't stay back, or lock back even when manually extracted.
The bolt latch is probably broken it is the part that is attached to the lifter close to the front of the trigger guard. They will brake the tab on the inside
@@hillsgun Thanks very much appreciate it, have you done a video on how to replace this, lol
@@hillsgun "Bolt Latch", or Carrier latch? I see no part on Numrich parts list stating Bolt latch
Carrier release
Parts are getting hard to find
yes, hard to get parts for anything.
@@hillsgun do you think someone will start back making 1100 parts
At some point there will be some reproductions available, probably not as good but they will be something if there is enough demand