Just seeing your vid on this bumper install and I'm confused with why you made the rear backup lights into some overkill battery connected switch operated so called, "Fog Lights"? WTF. I have a better, but similar bumper I just installed yesterday that has the same style Backup lights and they are just that, "BACKUP LIGHTS" Not "FOG LIGHTS". My instructions along with all other youtube installation vids show that they tie into the Center White with Red stripe Reverse lead in the Trailer Plug Harness which is the Reverse Lead so they will only illuminate when you shift to reverse to help illuminate while backing up. Then they go out when you shift out of Reverse. They are not intended to be Fog Lights and would be illegal if turned on while driving forward down the road as they look like headlights. So, I'm asking whats the point in the Toggle switch and having to wire all that wiring up to the battery when WTF? That big heavy bundle of wiring you are holding is enough to power a Boeing 747. Get real Dude. If the lights are wired into your reverse leads right there at the rear bumper, like they are supposed to be, you don't have to do anything to activate them but shift to reverse and you have lights to see backing up. No fumbling around for a silly toggle switch. Looks like the bumper you have here is just a gimmick. And like everyone else says, That one little 80's style License Plate Light is a joke. The bumper I bought has the two big License Plate Lights like on the Standard bumper, but is LED instead of single bubs.
I've had this bumper for 9 months and haven't hooked up the tail lights because of the huge harness and lack of "reverse" activation. I'll be stealing your wiring plan and making mine into proper "reverse lights". Thank you for the info. Which wire did you tie the neutral to? and out of curiosity, which bumper did you get instead?
@@McKevittS I spliced my positive wire into the White Center wire of the Trailer Plug Harness which is the Reverse Wire. The negative wire can be spliced into the negaive wire in the Trailer Plug Harness, or just ground it to the metal frame like I did which is much easier. The bumper I got (which I think is a better bumber) was manufactured by Hawkley. Part number 412C-NRM01B105-BX from EBAY. Designed for a 2009- 2018 Dodge Ram 1500. It came in three pieces and had to be assembed. Made of Heavy Dudy Steel and weighs 74 lbs. It shows a DIY Painting Chart with it where you can custem paint the trim and the Tow Shackles in your prefered color if you like. I painted mine Red and it looks good. I also just bought a Red Extended trailer hitch that makes it look even better. About the license plate lights. I had to disconnect them and installed two of those small lights that fit into the licence plate holes and they are perfect ilumination. Those LED licence plate lights where too bright for me. I just unhooked them and taped up the connectors, but all I have to do if I need to hook them up is remove the tape and just connect them. Oh, something else I did to keep from cutting the wires of my trucks original Trailer Wiring Harness to hardwire everything, I ordered a separate CURT 55384 Replacement Vehicle-Side Custom USCAR 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness and connected it to the original Trailer Plug Harness and the new one has the 4 pin connector that prevents you from having to connect it into the face of the Trailer plug that can be seen from the outside and would have to be removed if you hook up a trailer in order to use the trailer lights. In other words, I piggybacked the new Trailer Wiring Harness into the original Harness and piggybacked the 4 pin connector into the original so it wouldn't have to be connected in the face of the plug on the outside. Also, it eliminated splicing all those wires into the the plug wiring. The only wire that had to be spliced into the plug wiring was the Backup (Reverse) wire. I also have a taillight strip that I spliced the reverse wire into the center wire of the new plug and the ground went to the chasis with the other backup lights. I didn't connect the taillight strip to the reverse wire in the taillights.
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I have a factory bedstep on mine. Will this need to be removed also with the new install?
I like the bumper but that license plate light...im not mad, im just disappointed.
Just agreed in my own comment very disappointed.
Yeah it’s a deal breaker for me. And I really wanted this bumper too
So how do you change out the proximity sensors
BedStep transfer possible? Were existing and new setup close enough to allow it ?
Which one is the wiring kit you have for this wiring?
Wow, I was all on-board until I saw that cheapo 1980's style license plate light. Do they just have a ton of those in inventory or what? Bummer.
Do more 3rd gen vids
We definitely will! Thanks for watching! -Zach
Yeah disappointed in the license light looks like it's from a nineties vehicle 🤔
Could this be painted to match the truck?
With proper preparation, you absolutely could paint match it! -Zach
Just seeing your vid on this bumper install and I'm confused with why you made the rear backup lights into some overkill battery connected switch operated so called, "Fog Lights"? WTF. I have a better, but similar bumper I just installed yesterday that has the same style Backup lights and they are just that, "BACKUP LIGHTS" Not "FOG LIGHTS". My instructions along with all other youtube installation vids show that they tie into the Center White with Red stripe Reverse lead in the Trailer Plug Harness which is the Reverse Lead so they will only illuminate when you shift to reverse to help illuminate while backing up. Then they go out when you shift out of Reverse. They are not intended to be Fog Lights and would be illegal if turned on while driving forward down the road as they look like headlights. So, I'm asking whats the point in the Toggle switch and having to wire all that wiring up to the battery when WTF? That big heavy bundle of wiring you are holding is enough to power a Boeing 747. Get real Dude. If the lights are wired into your reverse leads right there at the rear bumper, like they are supposed to be, you don't have to do anything to activate them but shift to reverse and you have lights to see backing up. No fumbling around for a silly toggle switch. Looks like the bumper you have here is just a gimmick. And like everyone else says, That one little 80's style License Plate Light is a joke. The bumper I bought has the two big License Plate Lights like on the Standard bumper, but is LED instead of single bubs.
I've had this bumper for 9 months and haven't hooked up the tail lights because of the huge harness and lack of "reverse" activation. I'll be stealing your wiring plan and making mine into proper "reverse lights". Thank you for the info. Which wire did you tie the neutral to? and out of curiosity, which bumper did you get instead?
@@McKevittS I spliced my positive wire into the White Center wire of the Trailer Plug Harness which is the Reverse Wire. The negative wire can be spliced into the negaive wire in the Trailer Plug Harness, or just ground it to the metal frame like I did which is much easier. The bumper I got (which I think is a better bumber) was manufactured by Hawkley. Part number 412C-NRM01B105-BX from EBAY. Designed for a 2009- 2018 Dodge Ram 1500. It came in three pieces and had to be assembed. Made of Heavy Dudy Steel and weighs 74 lbs. It shows a DIY Painting Chart with it where you can custem paint the trim and the Tow Shackles in your prefered color if you like. I painted mine Red and it looks good. I also just bought a Red Extended trailer hitch that makes it look even better. About the license plate lights. I had to disconnect them and installed two of those small lights that fit into the licence plate holes and they are perfect ilumination. Those LED licence plate lights where too bright for me. I just unhooked them and taped up the connectors, but all I have to do if I need to hook them up is remove the tape and just connect them. Oh, something else I did to keep from cutting the wires of my trucks original Trailer Wiring Harness to hardwire everything, I ordered a separate CURT 55384 Replacement Vehicle-Side Custom USCAR 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness and connected it to the original Trailer Plug Harness and the new one has the 4 pin connector that prevents you from having to connect it into the face of the Trailer plug that can be seen from the outside and would have to be removed if you hook up a trailer in order to use the trailer lights. In other words, I piggybacked the new Trailer Wiring Harness into the original Harness and piggybacked the 4 pin connector into the original so it wouldn't have to be connected in the face of the plug on the outside. Also, it eliminated splicing all those wires into the the plug wiring. The only wire that had to be spliced into the plug wiring was the Backup (Reverse) wire. I also have a taillight strip that I spliced the reverse wire into the center wire of the new plug and the ground went to the chasis with the other backup lights. I didn't connect the taillight strip to the reverse wire in the taillights.