Can you recommend settings for the EOS R6 II and DS 230, please? Specifically external speedlite control menu: flash firing, EL-TTL balance, ETTL II metering, continuous flash control, slow synchro and flash function settings. Many thanks!
Hi John, sorry we missed your message. We recommend these settings when you're using it together with our strobes and a DL5 DS Link TTL Converter: Flash Firing = 'Enable' E-TTL Balance = 'Flash Priority' or 'Standard' E-TTL II Metering = 'Average' Continuous Flash Control = 'E-TTL First Shot' Slow Syncro = '1/250 - 1/60 Auto' or '1/200 fixed'
I liked TTL converter inside older housing much more. I understand, that it might be challenge to squeeze it into DLM housings. I also found, that when I set DL5 DS for R5 according to manual (program 4), I can't get 1/250s sync speed. I use it with with program 5 with no problems so far.
You actually can use the electronic shutter front curtain sync with a maximum sync speed of 1/250 if you use program #8. You would need to switch back to program # 5 if you switched back to the mechanical shutter. There are advantages and disadvantages to everything, but we like having TTL externally because 1) it's easier to switch between TTL and manual; 2) you can take your TTL with you to the next housing; 3) your TTL electronics are independently sealed.
@@ikelite my DL5 broke (black wire was stripped from most copper and last strand of copper broke during tighter cable bend). I removed PCB from DL5 housing and solder it onto CT1 hotshoe cable.
I have this setup. I haven't had much luck hitting focus with the R5 when taking fish portraits in deeper water. Aside from a focus light, is there a way to force the R5 into high iso? On the 5dmkiv it was super easy being a dslr to just look through the viewfinder, but with this electronic mirrorless setup it's been troublesome. Thoughts?
Try turning off exposure compensation, that way you can still see your subject and focus on it better, but you will need to review your shots to check the exposure with flash.
It depends on the housing and camera combination. With the 200DL or 50DL housing for the Canon EOS R5, the optional DL5 DS Link TTL Converter is required for TTL operation. There are some Ikelite housings with built-in TTL electronics like the Canon Rebel SL3 (EOS 250D).
Yes, there's a TTL circuit in the strobe, but the converter is what allows for TTL communication between the strobe and camera. Let us know if you have any other questions!
Great info! If I ever forget this stuff, I just rewatch this video for a refresher. Thanks!
Can you please let me know how to use 2nd curtain sync with the Canon R5 using dual Ikelite 161 strobes and the DL5 converter. Thank you
2nd Curtain Sync is automatically enabled at shutter speeds of 1/20 second and slower.
Can you recommend settings for the EOS R6 II and DS 230, please? Specifically external speedlite control menu: flash firing, EL-TTL balance, ETTL II metering, continuous flash control, slow synchro and flash function settings. Many thanks!
Hi John, sorry we missed your message. We recommend these settings when you're using it together with our strobes and a DL5 DS Link TTL Converter:
Flash Firing = 'Enable'
E-TTL Balance = 'Flash Priority' or 'Standard'
E-TTL II Metering = 'Average'
Continuous Flash Control = 'E-TTL First Shot'
Slow Syncro = '1/250 - 1/60 Auto' or '1/200 fixed'
I liked TTL converter inside older housing much more. I understand, that it might be challenge to squeeze it into DLM housings. I also found, that when I set DL5 DS for R5 according to manual (program 4), I can't get 1/250s sync speed. I use it with with program 5 with no problems so far.
You actually can use the electronic shutter front curtain sync with a maximum sync speed of 1/250 if you use program #8. You would need to switch back to program # 5 if you switched back to the mechanical shutter.
There are advantages and disadvantages to everything, but we like having TTL externally because 1) it's easier to switch between TTL and manual; 2) you can take your TTL with you to the next housing; 3) your TTL electronics are independently sealed.
@@ikelite my DL5 broke (black wire was stripped from most copper and last strand of copper broke during tighter cable bend). I removed PCB from DL5 housing and solder it onto CT1 hotshoe cable.
I have this setup. I haven't had much luck hitting focus with the R5 when taking fish portraits in deeper water. Aside from a focus light, is there a way to force the R5 into high iso? On the 5dmkiv it was super easy being a dslr to just look through the viewfinder, but with this electronic mirrorless setup it's been troublesome. Thoughts?
Try turning off exposure compensation, that way you can still see your subject and focus on it better, but you will need to review your shots to check the exposure with flash.
so you need a ttl converter for the ttl on strobes to work?
It depends on the housing and camera combination. With the 200DL or 50DL housing for the Canon EOS R5, the optional DL5 DS Link TTL Converter is required for TTL operation. There are some Ikelite housings with built-in TTL electronics like the Canon Rebel SL3 (EOS 250D).
so you need a ttl converter for the ttl on strobes to work?
Yes, there's a TTL circuit in the strobe, but the converter is what allows for TTL communication between the strobe and camera. Let us know if you have any other questions!