No point in putting ptfe tape on the threads of a compression fitting as if it would leak it would still run down the pipe end, all it does is gives an unreliable feel for how tight the nut is, on the other hand you can put ptfe tape around the olive and this would seal.
Lads, thanks for the video. Just a quick one. Why do we need to do step two? If we’re changing one radiator and it’s already been capped off? And what if the radiator I want to remove is the one with the nozzle to to drain (like the one is step two) - does that mean I can drain my gravity system?
Great vid, quick Q does the towel rail have to be the same width as the old radiator? Or can i just put in a new size hand towel rail? Thanks in advance
Thanks for the video gents! A quick question.... Is it necessary to drain down the system completely if you're not doing anything with the valves/pipework? I need to straight swap a radiator like for like
No inhibitor added so that will rust in a month Speed fit under the floor never a good move. Use Hep if needed or solder or press. Bit of a cowboy job but good for a laugh
Push fit is standard in all new builds and inhibitor yes but this system is being removed in a few months as it’s an old gravity fed system glad you had a laugh either way 😊💪🏼💪🏼
Exactly what I need to do but have have tiles on the floor I won't be taking up so is there a flexible pipe option to use the existing ones? (I know it won't look as good).
Not the best work I’ve ever seen No need ptfe tape on the threads boys Water seal is where the olive is If it leaks that won’t stop it Liquid ptfe around the olive is the way And please no push fits there😢😢😢😢
I'm told you still need to use an insert even when attaching to copper pipe. What's your view? Also why didn't you just use plastic pipe? So much easier.
Why does the radiator need draining if the system is going to be drained? This is an honest question I’m not any kind of experienced plumber trying to be funny. I’m just trying to work out if I drain the system first would it make it easier for me.
They're draining the system because they're removing the current radiator valves. If you were just swapping a like for like radiator, e.g. a side entry radiator for the same, then you only need to isolate the valves. Because they're changing from a side entry radiator to a bottom entry towel heater, then the valves and the plumbing has to be altered. If you didn't drain the system, there would be water flowing out of those copper pipes when they were cut. Hope this helps.
Why wouldn’t you just isolate the header tank in the first place then let the heating system fully drain then take the radiator off once it’s all drained, rather than isolating the radiator taking it off then go drain it down. You need to drain it down anyway to alter the pipes
Why, oh why, did you not clean those tiles before fitting that radiator? You will never get to those disgusting stains now that the radiator is fitted.
Another great video lads. I'm just your average DIYer refurbishing my first house and you've been very helpful. Thank you 🙏
That’s awesome 😁😁
No point in putting ptfe tape on the threads of a compression fitting as if it would leak it would still run down the pipe end, all it does is gives an unreliable feel for how tight the nut is, on the other hand you can put ptfe tape around the olive and this would seal.
You have a 60 years old apprentice following you around.🙏
Great tutorial, thanks i will do one in my bathroom.
I still need to do this in my bathroom ❤
Fantastic video!
Best Channel i've found in a long time!! Keep it going guys
Much appreciated 🔥
Nice guy,,,,good tips,,,,thank mate appreciate,,,,I doing HVAC myself,,,,,I love doing some plumbing
Thanks and nice mate. 😊
Thanks guys just what I needed.👍
Great video would of used chrome pipe tho instead of copper on a chrome towel rail
Thank you for the geat video, you've been very helpful👌
Happy to hear that!
Once one gents 👏👏
How and when are you going to replace the inhibitor now that you have emptied the system out.
I'm happy you said DIY guide as your no plumber's 🤔🤔
Cowboy central! I'm a heating engineer and if I seen ptfe on threads and that much push fit I'd make u drain it back down and rip it out!
Good video boys 🎉
Legend!
😂....you 2 are entertaining. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching 😊
If I don't change copper pipes, can I just close valves change radiator to towel hanger and repressurise system after letting air out from hanger?
Yes and top up pressure 😊
Remember to undo both isolators on either end of towel rail. Got caught with my pants down. Bled ok just would not heat up and made system stall.
Excellent job guys thank u.
Thanks 😁
You should be using boss white on the front of the olives. That tape on the threads does nothing.
Lads, thanks for the video. Just a quick one. Why do we need to do step two? If we’re changing one radiator and it’s already been capped off? And what if the radiator I want to remove is the one with the nozzle to to drain (like the one is step two) - does that mean I can drain my gravity system?
What a great video - I have just subscribed!
Awesome, thank you!
Outstanding
Thanks 😁
Nice mate
Nice one oz 😁💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
Grips on chrome nuts and ptfe on threads. Jesus christ ..how not to guide
Would you not have to open all TRV and lockshields for all radiators around the house?
Can't believe floors like that are accepted in the UK.
Great vid, quick Q does the towel rail have to be the same width as the old radiator? Or can i just put in a new size hand towel rail? Thanks in advance
You can do either smaller requires more plumbing to move pipes 😊
Thanks for the video gents! A quick question.... Is it necessary to drain down the system completely if you're not doing anything with the valves/pipework?
I need to straight swap a radiator like for like
As long as the valves can be shut on the rad you just drain the rad itself swap top up pressure and bleed system 😁😁
Hi guy
What happen if you have both combo and gravity fed system?
It sure on that one 😞
Should have used chrome tails much neater finish
No inhibitor added so that will rust in a month
Speed fit under the floor never a good move. Use Hep if needed or solder or press.
Bit of a cowboy job but good for a laugh
Push fit is standard in all new builds and inhibitor yes but this system is being removed in a few months as it’s an old gravity fed system glad you had a laugh either way 😊💪🏼💪🏼
Exactly what I need to do but have have tiles on the floor I won't be taking up so is there a flexible pipe option to use the existing ones? (I know it won't look as good).
Why do I have to bleed the system?
You’ll have air in the system that needs removing 😊
Love your videos but not de-burring your cuts it bad & especially when using push fittings
Appreciate it,🔥 de-burring got it 🤙🏽
Why would you need to drain the system down if you isolated the radiator yourself working on?
They were cutting out pipe work either side of the rad valves
Anyone else bothered that they're going so far to even replace the pipes as well as sink, bath ect... but they're leaving the manky tiles
Not the best work I’ve ever seen
No need ptfe tape on the threads boys
Water seal is where the olive is
If it leaks that won’t stop it
Liquid ptfe around the olive is the way
And please no push fits there😢😢😢😢
Tau Rau
Can anyone tell me why my radiator has two wires at the back connected from the wall to the radiator?
It's electric, not water/plumbed.
I'm told you still need to use an insert even when attaching to copper pipe. What's your view?
Also why didn't you just use plastic pipe? So much easier.
You can’t fit an insert into copper, the copper is the rigid bit already
Why does the radiator need draining if the system is going to be drained? This is an honest question I’m not any kind of experienced plumber trying to be funny. I’m just trying to work out if I drain the system first would it make it easier for me.
They're draining the system because they're removing the current radiator valves. If you were just swapping a like for like radiator, e.g. a side entry radiator for the same, then you only need to isolate the valves. Because they're changing from a side entry radiator to a bottom entry towel heater, then the valves and the plumbing has to be altered. If you didn't drain the system, there would be water flowing out of those copper pipes when they were cut. Hope this helps.
Don't you own a spanner ?
Why wouldn’t you just isolate the header tank in the first place then let the heating system fully drain then take the radiator off once it’s all drained, rather than isolating the radiator taking it off then go drain it down. You need to drain it down anyway to alter the pipes
What sort of price would this cost for someone else to install for me? (If I supplied the towel heater?
Couldn’t say tbh
jesus the state of floors in uk is appalling...
Why, oh why, did you not clean those tiles before fitting that radiator? You will never get to those disgusting stains now that the radiator is fitted.
If you watch future videos the radiator was remove and then vinyl tiles behind .. it was a order we was tryna film the content in 🙈
@@homeimprovements I'm glad! Normally I'm not OCD, but that would have been too much even for me 🤣
😁💪🏼
Amateur
That is the worst radiator change I’ve ever seen 😂😂😂 are you both plasterers in real life 😂😂😂😂😂
Unprofessional from start to finish …..
Bless you
And you ……
wouldn’t have you two in my home. …
🤣🤣🤣 like I’d even wanna go near your home nah I’m good petal
The truth hurts 🤣🤣🤣 don’t even know how you two muppets got on here Petal…🤣🤣🤣🤣
Brilliant video. I've just bought a tower rail but there is no mention of water flow or direction. Can my towel rail be plumbed either way?.
Someone show this guy jointing compound 🤦♂️🤦♂️