As a German bike mechanic, we rely heavily on foreign manufacturers (Park Tool, Unior, VAR) for bike specific tools, but German tool manufacturers (Hazet, Wera, Knipex and to some extent Würth) are simply exceptional and I'm glad that they're appreciated elsewhere.
I have (as a learning home grown bike maintainer) one set of Wera keys and working with them gives me so much joy... Converted me to buying quality tools in the future
I'm from Germany and I gladly admit that we are shitty at a plethora of things. But we know how to make quality tools. I'm actually from the town where Wera and Knipex are located (Wuppertal).
On the contrary, the home-brew bike industry aftermarket parts available from Germany are some of the best. Once of the few countries I could probably build up almost an entirely "all-German" bike.
FYI - Wera warranty does not apply to the Allen keys (note: Wera calls them L-keys). From Wera's warranty "Bits, bitholders and L-keys are also not covered under this warranty policy as they are considered consumable"
It kind of depends. My small allen key (the white one) snapped cleanly off. Wera replaced it without any hesitation. At this point, the set was already like 3 or 4 years old.
@@mopedvieh What Wera means is that it's normal that those get stripped at some point as they are designed to be softer than the screws you are screwing so you don't strip the screws as easily. If it out right breaks they will have no problem replacing them as that is not "normal wear and tear".
@MustYouHaveAUsername That's not correct. The tools (practically all tools) are way harder than the screws or bolts. This is actually what makes them last and avoids rounding the heads. For reference: Wera allen keys exhibit a hardness of around 54 HRC while typical 8.8 bolts (used pretty much everywhere on a bike) are just at around 34 HRC max.
I use Bondhus Allen keys, they do make colored ones but I just have the regular black ones. They have a lifetime warranty. (many of the park tool allen/torx are actually made by bondhus).
Couple improved suggestions on Nic. - The Veccnum Frequence is a better execution of a suspension stem vs. The Redshift. Redshift is single pivot, so it rotates your hands forward on bumps. It also means it's dependant on where you're applying leverage (will flex a lot more in the hoods and almost 0 in the tops). The Veccnum is a translational system so it only moves vertically and travel is usable at all bar positions, not rotating forward and down like the Redshift and only in the hoods or forward drop position. The Vecnum is also adjustable on the fly and procvides bottom and top out damping. - 90 GBP+ on a Silca handpump is unnecessary. You're better off buying a set of hiflow Filmore Valves which make any HV pump much more usable. The problem with airflow isn't additional leverage on the pump, it's the outdated crappy presta valve. Filmore valves allow 3x the air = 3x less force = any old pump doesn't have to be forced to add air. I use the OneUp pump as it also stores a tool. - Those Enduro jockey wheels are 250 AUD! That's 4-5 X01/XX1 or 5-6 Shimano XT/XTR replacement pair of jockey wheels which work perfectly. Ceramic bearings alone (measured by Silca) in the jockey wheels is in the 0.1W saving realm (below even marginal). I think I go through a pair every 20,000-30,000kms? Just a poor suggestion from a value for money perspectice. It's not like jockey wheels are a difficult item to swap (unlike say... fork suspension bushings)
@@gezakopter1153 For sure the Frequence is about $100 USD more (at least for me here in Aus) which is a downside. Though I'd say comfort/fit and the function of maintaining geometry it provides will make way more of a performance difference than say an expensive cassette which makes little to no difference (and many people buying a $170 USD Redshift stem aren't riding entry level bikes). In this same video he recommended $160 USD jockey wheels which cost 5-6x more than OEM and a Silca handpump for 120 USD which is about 4-5x more than my 10yr old well functioning Topeak Race Rocket - both of which make 0 difference to your riding experience. The Vecnum at least provides a tangible (and from an engineering standpoint) a better functioning suspension product. Easier cleaning can be solved with a $1 nylon brush from the supermarket.
@@JensEskildsen I doubt Nic is actively trying to please sponsors, but unfortunately as bike shop owners/employees get staff discounts with local distributors (so they don't shop online as much as the general consumer does), it means Nic likely only really looks to buy from what UK stockists and isn't aware of the broader products available on the market.
Absolutely love my Wera allen set They feel so secure when you put them in the allen head, nothing compares. No chance they will round anything. Hard to explain unless you use a set yourself, they're just pure quality. They're only like £30 too and so worth the slight splurge on an allen set that'll last a lifetime.
Totally agree with Nick on the Wera keys & TPU inners 👍. The knipex pliers the best ever..... cue Francis's 500 item Park Tool wall resplendent with no knipex pliers ! 😅. Good stuff to consider, nice video gents 👍
Redshift stem, wera hex and TPU spare tubes get a second vote from me! Really good to hear Francis mention his buddy has been able to use his spare tube multiple times without issue - I've never had to install it and was worried it would be really delicate. Nice job! Going to go get some knipex's!
I love my unbranded chinese carbon bottle cages - they cost nothing, they weigh nothing AND they scratch up my bottles so badly, I can constantly justify the latest bottle designs 😋
Really enjoyed that; lots of non-standard products covered. I reckon I’ll try one of those suspension stems on the gravel bike. I invested in a set of the Wera keys a few months ago. Only problem I find is that the included holder grips them like a vice - does its job a little too well.
Wera allen keys are the best! I was a field engineer and used them more in a day than most people would use in a year. Even if they didn't have a lifetime warranty, I'd still prefer them.
Basically every product review from Nic can be summarised as "I bought the most expensive version of this thing on the market, and it's amazing". Would love to see a video where he specs a gravel bike/bike packing setup to a budget that doesn't rival the GDP of a small country.
And two of these are coming from my hometown: Wuppertal. Both Knipex and Wera are located here. And to add to that they are almost neighbors as well. Great stuff!
+1 for the Cane Creek eeSilk suspension stem. I just put it on my gravel bike a few weeks ago, replacing an expensive carbon stem. Don't underestimate the quasi-lockout feature. It's great not having any bobbing when you're climbing or standing. And it really helps my wrists on long choppy descents. Also nice that you can change the elastomers without removing the stem.
I don’t know why, but I really enjoy these most loved/ hated videos. I’m guessing they do well for you since there have been so many. I’ll unashamedly watch every one them. Cheers!
I purchased a set of the Wera Allen keys based on this recommendation. However, they felt a bit loose in the bolt recesses. When I measured them, I found them dimensioned to the lower end of tolerances allowed under ASME B18.3.2.M - still within tolerance, but on the smaller side. For applications like bicycle maintenance, where bolts are repeatedly removed and re-torqued, tighter-fitting keys might lessen bolt wear. I checked my Park Tool Allen keys (Set HXS-1.2) and found they measure to the upper end of allowable tolerances, and the set is about $10 cheaper than the Wera set. I ended up returning the Wera set.
I have park and Wera. Park have been in the tool box for about 5 years. Wera get used at least once a week and stay on the bench. My favourite tool I’ve ever bought.
that lil bit for the gopro. I am going to buy forsure. would make my life easier because i only have 1 gopro and hate dealing with the chest mount to head mount
Cyclus disc brake facing tool is excellent, cuts both posts simultaneously and is easy to adjust, has a load of adapters for thru-axles and so on. It get's my thumbs up. We run it with a cordless drill, just to be even faster. [I'm a mechanic too]
Just spenT $20 on set of derailleur pulleys (which I had already planned on returning) and now I’m ALMOST ready to buy a set of the Enduro XD 15s for $289 USD. 😭
As a bike builder professionally. The park tool cable cutter with crimp is just too good. I cut atleast 10 cables 5 days a week and have had same pair for 5 years now
XD-15 is an excellent system. One thing worth noting on the XD-15 range, however, is they are a serviceable component: to maintain that lifetime warranty, you do need to be servicing the bearings. You can't just install them and ride them for 10 years: every so often, usually when the bearings feel like they're a bit crunchy, you do need to clean them out and regrease them. But yes: lifetime warranty. Swap them between as many bikes as you like, and they'll keep the ongoing warranty!
Silca Gravelero.. confirmed! Great pump. I use mine for both wide gravel tires and skinny road tires. Comes with a handy bottle bolt mount that keeps it tucked out of the wind. Works on Schrader and Presta. Expensive? Not really.. buy quality once or buy cheap twice.
Honestly just Silca pumps in general. I treated myself to a Silca Impero Ultimate fairly recently and it's brilliant. Fits fairly snugly in an 'aero' carbon frame (though not neatly along the top tube, instead from top tube-seat tube corner to head tube-sown tube corner) and being a big pump it makes putting a lot of pressure into skinny road tyres a lot easier. I'm very happy to say the days of pumping like a jackrabbit in spring trying to get 90 psi worth of air into a tube before the driving rain fills the tyre up again are over!
Great content....love Nic's observations. I have to respectfully disagree on the wider saddle. If anything the wider saddle (for me, mind you) changes my pedal stroke and becomes horribly uncomfortable on longer rides due to chafing. If anything narrower is better (see Bike Fit James' rant on saddle width). Definitely like the pumps and the Wera Allen keys....also going to carry a TPU as backup to tubeless setup. Bought the enduro jockey wheels for 2 out of 3 bikes...or will when back in stock. ZIPP 101 now on wish list.
Wera Tools are awesome. Not just because they sponsor an entire stage at Summer Breeze Open Air, one of the greatest and loveliest metal festivals in the world. :)
The problem with the Wera keys is that casing is round so you have less grip along the middle of the key. They also don't fit in something like the Ultimate workstand. Wiha makes a beautiful set.
I have these WERA keys for over a year, and recently these colorful sleeves have started to slip off, so I have to glue them from time to time. The inscriptions with the size wore off after about 8 months. I use them quite often, but certainly not as much as in a bicycle service. The quality of the steel itself is very good, and shows no signs of wear.
I have those Weras as well an don't like them much. They are a lot more expensive than Bondhus but not as good IMO. There is a MAJOR flaw with the Weras in that the colored sleeve is thicker than the dia of the key, so you can't reach the key down into deep bores. That alone should make them a no-go...I think most people will find they have to buy another set of keys when encountering that issue, dunno how that even got past the design phase. ....Bondhus has color anodized sets now so there is no sheath over the tool. Also (gonna be that guy)....Knipex is pronounced "Keh neh pecks" 🤓
i got a set of allen keys for 2€ at the hardware store when i had to assemble my first bike. i tried "upgrading" them twice with much more expensive sets but the hardware store set is still my go-to. they are plain but they have never stripped a bolt
Wera Allen keys aren't that expensive and having used dozens of different sets of Allen keys, the Wera ones are my favourite. I personally prefer their stainless version without the colour coding. If you do want to colour code your tools I recommend nail varnish. You'll get a few funny looks at the chemist when your asking for neon green nail varnish but that's about the worst of it
Same. I got a cheap-ish set of T-shaped Allen keys from Planet X when I first started wrenching. I still have them and use them on everything with no issues.
Cheap allen keys still work fine as long as you don't need much torque. Applications with high torque typically show the difference between a good steel and a less good one. Bikes typically don't need that much torque on the bolts
@@simonm1447 Precisely. 6 or so Nm max on the smaller bolts and of those with higher torques (e.g. cranks on square tapers) the bolt head are nice and strong and so are the larger hex heads on the cheaper tools.
I’ve been using Topeak Racerocket HP for years. Nice little pump. I have to do lots (a lot!) of strokes to inflate the tires, though. Well, consider it as an arm workout, because you know, cyclists tend to have skinny weak arms. LOL
@@leongjordan5272 Get the RaceRocket HV version and pair it with a HV valve like the Filmore Valve. These valves have 3x the opening = you can use a HV pump which pushes 2x as much air and it'll be easier than a HP pump with a standard valve (especially if you run tubeless which tend to clog slowly over time).
Knipex makes the best braided cable cutter and it has a crimper integrated into it. Also, you NEED the hex plus shaped allen keys (Mac tools also makes similar tech called RBRT). Everything else rounds hex sockets and they're hell to extract. Buddy also needs a beard trim lookin a little scraggly there
Prefer my Zefal HPX frame pump to any pump you can buy in the modern market. Classy, attractive, dead reliable and pumps a 29er 2.25 tubed tire in about 30 strokes, less than a minute.
TPU inner tubes... compact, yes. But blimey, the ones I tried punctured just by looking at them (Schwalbe Aerothans). I should at least try one or two different brands before writing them off, but I'm hesitant. I mean I thought Schwalbe would be a good robust tube.
1 lezyne pump 2 san marco rolls saddle 15mm of luxury compliance 3 knipex are great (the sparky’s choice) 4 butyl is bulky but you can patch it. 5 if you like flex stems buy one 6 I’ll give you 7 frames should come faced. 8 quality Allen keys weir, bondhus, park 9 10
I've been using a Vecnum freeQENCE for a couple of years and it an even better alternative in my opinion. It uses a parallelogram instead of a simple pivot, so you're bars don't change angle of attack when they flex and allows you to change the damping factor with a hex key. You can't really adjust it on the fly, but you don't need to disassemble anything either. The build of the Vecnum seems like it is built much sturdier as well which instills a lot more confidence. The only downside is the stem is not a smooth shape on top, so you can't fasten anything to it like a light or computer mount.
@@bantolphbantir9605 agree. The redshift stem is only good for flatbar steerer. With dropbars it feels awkward, especially in the hoods. Now I use the Kinekt parallelogram stem and its ALOT better. Also bought the vecnum one but didn't tried it out yet.
@abotanistsghost2311 I went for the Topeak Master Blaster Road Frame Pump in the end. Thinking that a longer unit will also give me fewer pumps till it's rideable if I had to replace the inner-tube... just a theory I had
If you want something like the Silca but in a MUCH smaller form factor, check out the ipump Twist. It's not cheap, but it is ridiculously light (25 g, that's not a misprint 25 fucking grams). Takes forever to pump up a tire because it delivers so little air. As long as you're not in a hurry, it's amazing.
'Nobody's running high pressures anymore' - really? - I adjust pressure according to terrain - if it's smooth, I run higher pressures, which is faster on smooth surfaces.
Great timing as I’m looking for a decent set of Allen keys. Which Wera set is this, as they do several different sets on their website .. all a bit confusing. Thanks
Wera Hex plus is the one I'd recommend, you can get them in alloy steel or stainless, with or without the sleeves, there's even a stubby version. You'll be looking at about €35 for a set.
Regarding thermoplastic inner tubes: I read mixed reviews, and they are (way) more expensive. I am ofcourse triggered by their compact volume and very low weight (I admit, I would actually use them as I'm not riding tubeless, and not only as a spare). Any feedback with regards to mixed reviews (some had them easily punctured and said they weren't durable)? Red shift makes some really smart stuff. Not very cheap but worth a look at it. Those Enduro Jockey wheels... too expensive at around 200 euro for a pair. They will outlast your RD, but by that time there will be something else (like 13 speed, or a gearbox or ...), and any good 3rd party ceramic derailleur wheels set you back around 20 euro and last for at least 15-20K, so you'd have to ride 150.000-200.000K with the same RD to get the money out of the jockey wheels. That's, for most amateur riders, easily >10 years.
Those Zip 101 wheels likely owe much of their comfort to their shallow profile. Deep section aero wheels will always be less compliant. No mystery there.
#1 CO2, all the way with tubes. #2 Classic 1990 style SI Flite. #3 Park Tool. #4 Michelin aircomp. #5 Ritchey WCS. #6 ??? No camera. #7 Rim Brake. #8 Park Tool. #9 OEM wheels. #10 Hand built wheels laced with GL330 (Old School)
This is only if you can find a cycling-oriented 3D-printing fabricator to custom-3D-print a spacer kit for you. Many bikes with integrated internal routing don't have the same cockpit compatibility range as those that don't run this routing configuration.
really milking this guy for every bit of content 😂
Give the people what they want I say
He's seems pretty knowledgeable so why not?
I like it. Nick the Mechanic and James the Bikefitter. Bring ‘‘em on. Cade Media is a great platform for them to spread their knowledge.
No affiliate links for the products, still more milking to do.
I think what the OP is trying to say is Francis makes money off his videos, so is he giving this guy a cut or just making pure profit off this guy?
"They are expensive" should be the go to phrase for all bike stuff 😂 😂👍
If it's not expensive it don't exists
@@david-imboden big style 👍
As a German bike mechanic, we rely heavily on foreign manufacturers (Park Tool, Unior, VAR) for bike specific tools, but German tool manufacturers (Hazet, Wera, Knipex and to some extent Würth) are simply exceptional and I'm glad that they're appreciated elsewhere.
I'm a starting bike mechanic and Knipex definitely made my life easier hahaha
Thanks because you're an Engineering superpower! Keep it up, the whole world benefits form that!
You definitely forgot Stahlwille...
I have (as a learning home grown bike maintainer) one set of Wera keys and working with them gives me so much joy... Converted me to buying quality tools in the future
I'm from Germany and I gladly admit that we are shitty at a plethora of things. But we know how to make quality tools. I'm actually from the town where Wera and Knipex are located (Wuppertal).
I’d love the digital wera torque wrench but they are steep on the pockets
Gruß aus LEV.
On the contrary, the home-brew bike industry aftermarket parts available from Germany are some of the best. Once of the few countries I could probably build up almost an entirely "all-German" bike.
Can attest. Whenever I can buy Knipex or Wiha I don't think twice.
Grüße aus dem Kölner Norden :)
FYI - Wera warranty does not apply to the Allen keys (note: Wera calls them L-keys). From Wera's warranty "Bits, bitholders and L-keys are also not covered under this warranty policy as they are considered consumable"
It kind of depends. My small allen key (the white one) snapped cleanly off. Wera replaced it without any hesitation. At this point, the set was already like 3 or 4 years old.
@@mopedvieh What Wera means is that it's normal that those get stripped at some point as they are designed to be softer than the screws you are screwing so you don't strip the screws as easily.
If it out right breaks they will have no problem replacing them as that is not "normal wear and tear".
@MustYouHaveAUsername That's not correct. The tools (practically all tools) are way harder than the screws or bolts. This is actually what makes them last and avoids rounding the heads.
For reference: Wera allen keys exhibit a hardness of around 54 HRC while typical 8.8 bolts (used pretty much everywhere on a bike) are just at around 34 HRC max.
I use Bondhus Allen keys, they do make colored ones but I just have the regular black ones. They have a lifetime warranty. (many of the park tool allen/torx are actually made by bondhus).
@@mopedviehExcept Nic said they’d replace them once the end wears out.
To extoll the pliers and Allen keys in front of the Park Tool exhibition- hilarious! 😂
Finally, someone else calling out that disc caliper centering nonsense by loosening the bolt and holding the brake
I dunno about that….. seemed to work on my bike.
It still woks most of the time, unless there is a problem with the mount.
@@festerofest4374 I've never had it work on multiple bikes. I've always ended up setting the caliper up by eye and with a bit of trial and error
As a former bike shop owner I agree 100% with your favourite products.
Couple improved suggestions on Nic.
- The Veccnum Frequence is a better execution of a suspension stem vs. The Redshift. Redshift is single pivot, so it rotates your hands forward on bumps. It also means it's dependant on where you're applying leverage (will flex a lot more in the hoods and almost 0 in the tops). The Veccnum is a translational system so it only moves vertically and travel is usable at all bar positions, not rotating forward and down like the Redshift and only in the hoods or forward drop position. The Vecnum is also adjustable on the fly and procvides bottom and top out damping.
- 90 GBP+ on a Silca handpump is unnecessary. You're better off buying a set of hiflow Filmore Valves which make any HV pump much more usable. The problem with airflow isn't additional leverage on the pump, it's the outdated crappy presta valve. Filmore valves allow 3x the air = 3x less force = any old pump doesn't have to be forced to add air. I use the OneUp pump as it also stores a tool.
- Those Enduro jockey wheels are 250 AUD! That's 4-5 X01/XX1 or 5-6 Shimano XT/XTR replacement pair of jockey wheels which work perfectly. Ceramic bearings alone (measured by Silca) in the jockey wheels is in the 0.1W saving realm (below even marginal). I think I go through a pair every 20,000-30,000kms? Just a poor suggestion from a value for money perspectice. It's not like jockey wheels are a difficult item to swap (unlike say... fork suspension bushings)
Veccnum Frequence vs Redshift - I like the redshift as it cost me half the price and it is a closed design, so I have less fuss with cleaning.
@@gezakopter1153 For sure the Frequence is about $100 USD more (at least for me here in Aus) which is a downside.
Though I'd say comfort/fit and the function of maintaining geometry it provides will make way more of a performance difference than say an expensive cassette which makes little to no difference (and many people buying a $170 USD Redshift stem aren't riding entry level bikes).
In this same video he recommended $160 USD jockey wheels which cost 5-6x more than OEM and a Silca handpump for 120 USD which is about 4-5x more than my 10yr old well functioning Topeak Race Rocket - both of which make 0 difference to your riding experience. The Vecnum at least provides a tangible (and from an engineering standpoint) a better functioning suspension product.
Easier cleaning can be solved with a $1 nylon brush from the supermarket.
Thanks, the above is why its way better to get advice from a rider, than someone trying to make money making videos, and pleasing sponsors
@@JensEskildsen I doubt Nic is actively trying to please sponsors, but unfortunately as bike shop owners/employees get staff discounts with local distributors (so they don't shop online as much as the general consumer does), it means Nic likely only really looks to buy from what UK stockists and isn't aware of the broader products available on the market.
Absolutely love my Wera allen set They feel so secure when you put them in the allen head, nothing compares. No chance they will round anything. Hard to explain unless you use a set yourself, they're just pure quality. They're only like £30 too and so worth the slight splurge on an allen set that'll last a lifetime.
Which set did you get? I’ve just checked the website and there’s a few sets to choose from. Thanks
@@manwithnoname6580 they're called "Wera Multicolour Holding Function Hex Key Set"
Totally agree with Nick on the Wera keys & TPU inners 👍. The knipex pliers the best ever..... cue Francis's 500 item Park Tool wall resplendent with no knipex pliers ! 😅. Good stuff to consider, nice video gents 👍
Nic always makes great content on the channel. We need more Nic. 😁
Redshift stem, wera hex and TPU spare tubes get a second vote from me! Really good to hear Francis mention his buddy has been able to use his spare tube multiple times without issue - I've never had to install it and was worried it would be really delicate. Nice job! Going to go get some knipex's!
also the ball end on the Wera L-keys is so nice, it allows you to screw in really weird angles, which happens a lot when working on bikes.
I love my unbranded chinese carbon bottle cages - they cost nothing, they weigh nothing AND they scratch up my bottles so badly, I can constantly justify the latest bottle designs 😋
I use Abloc bidons that have no graphics to scratch off. However, cleaning them is a bit more cumbersome. My bottle cages don't scratch bidons too.
Love these. Please keep them coming. Also continue with "products to avoid".
Really enjoyed that; lots of non-standard products covered. I reckon I’ll try one of those suspension stems on the gravel bike. I invested in a set of the Wera keys a few months ago. Only problem I find is that the included holder grips them like a vice - does its job a little too well.
Wera allen keys are the best! I was a field engineer and used them more in a day than most people would use in a year. Even if they didn't have a lifetime warranty, I'd still prefer them.
Thanks Francis and Nic...and crew
Basically every product review from Nic can be summarised as "I bought the most expensive version of this thing on the market, and it's amazing". Would love to see a video where he specs a gravel bike/bike packing setup to a budget that doesn't rival the GDP of a small country.
Great video, love San Marco's saddles, been using them for years. Will take a look at that stem and jockey wheels, would hurt to make an upgrade!
And two of these are coming from my hometown: Wuppertal. Both Knipex and Wera are located here. And to add to that they are almost neighbors as well. Great stuff!
+1 for the Cane Creek eeSilk suspension stem. I just put it on my gravel bike a few weeks ago, replacing an expensive carbon stem. Don't underestimate the quasi-lockout feature. It's great not having any bobbing when you're climbing or standing. And it really helps my wrists on long choppy descents. Also nice that you can change the elastomers without removing the stem.
No it doesn’t
I race gravel with a Redshift and I’ve never had an issue with “bobbing”.
I don’t know why, but I really enjoy these most loved/ hated videos. I’m guessing they do well for you since there have been so many. I’ll unashamedly watch every one them. Cheers!
These 10 things lists are great. I’ll watch em ifnuiu keep making
I purchased a set of the Wera Allen keys based on this recommendation. However, they felt a bit loose in the bolt recesses. When I measured them, I found them dimensioned to the lower end of tolerances allowed under ASME B18.3.2.M - still within tolerance, but on the smaller side. For applications like bicycle maintenance, where bolts are repeatedly removed and re-torqued, tighter-fitting keys might lessen bolt wear. I checked my Park Tool Allen keys (Set HXS-1.2) and found they measure to the upper end of allowable tolerances, and the set is about $10 cheaper than the Wera set. I ended up returning the Wera set.
I have park and Wera. Park have been in the tool box for about 5 years. Wera get used at least once a week and stay on the bench. My favourite tool I’ve ever bought.
@@Cous1nJackCool. What makes them your favorite?
Love these videos. thanks you.
that lil bit for the gopro. I am going to buy forsure. would make my life easier because i only have 1 gopro and hate dealing with the chest mount to head mount
Cyclus disc brake facing tool is excellent, cuts both posts simultaneously and is easy to adjust, has a load of adapters for thru-axles and so on. It get's my thumbs up. We run it with a cordless drill, just to be even faster.
[I'm a mechanic too]
Great, fast video. Thank you.
Just spenT $20 on set of derailleur pulleys (which I had already planned on returning) and now I’m ALMOST ready to buy a set of the Enduro XD 15s for $289 USD. 😭
Love my Selle San Marco! Best saddle on the market for me!
As a bike builder professionally. The park tool cable cutter with crimp is just too good. I cut atleast 10 cables 5 days a week and have had same pair for 5 years now
XD-15 is an excellent system. One thing worth noting on the XD-15 range, however, is they are a serviceable component: to maintain that lifetime warranty, you do need to be servicing the bearings. You can't just install them and ride them for 10 years: every so often, usually when the bearings feel like they're a bit crunchy, you do need to clean them out and regrease them.
But yes: lifetime warranty. Swap them between as many bikes as you like, and they'll keep the ongoing warranty!
Silca Gravelero.. confirmed! Great pump. I use mine for both wide gravel tires and skinny road tires. Comes with a handy bottle bolt mount that keeps it tucked out of the wind. Works on Schrader and Presta. Expensive? Not really.. buy quality once or buy cheap twice.
Honestly just Silca pumps in general. I treated myself to a Silca Impero Ultimate fairly recently and it's brilliant. Fits fairly snugly in an 'aero' carbon frame (though not neatly along the top tube, instead from top tube-seat tube corner to head tube-sown tube corner) and being a big pump it makes putting a lot of pressure into skinny road tyres a lot easier. I'm very happy to say the days of pumping like a jackrabbit in spring trying to get 90 psi worth of air into a tube before the driving rain fills the tyre up again are over!
This guy’s voice and speaking style is so charming. Super calming to listen to.
Great content....love Nic's observations. I have to respectfully disagree on the wider saddle. If anything the wider saddle (for me, mind you) changes my pedal stroke and becomes horribly uncomfortable on longer rides due to chafing. If anything narrower is better (see Bike Fit James' rant on saddle width).
Definitely like the pumps and the Wera Allen keys....also going to carry a TPU as backup to tubeless setup. Bought the enduro jockey wheels for 2 out of 3 bikes...or will when back in stock. ZIPP 101 now on wish list.
Nice stuff and very interesting!, I got slightly distracted around 3:59: "Wait, is that not my new orange bar tape? "
Wera Tools are awesome. Not just because they sponsor an entire stage at Summer Breeze Open Air, one of the greatest and loveliest metal festivals in the world. :)
Okay, yeah, the Fidlock Pinclip is EXACTLY what I've been looking for for my own camera.
Love it - knipex pliers while the entire wall is park tools including their pliers 😂
Good stuff 👍
The problem with the Wera keys is that casing is round so you have less grip along the middle of the key. They also don't fit in something like the Ultimate workstand. Wiha makes a beautiful set.
Wera makes the same set, with hex plus design, without the sleeves.
I have these WERA keys for over a year, and recently these colorful sleeves have started to slip off, so I have to glue them from time to time. The inscriptions with the size wore off after about 8 months. I use them quite often, but certainly not as much as in a bicycle service. The quality of the steel itself is very good, and shows no signs of wear.
Try the PBswiss ones I have had both and prefer them even though both are excellent
I have those Weras as well an don't like them much. They are a lot more expensive than Bondhus but not as good IMO. There is a MAJOR flaw with the Weras in that the colored sleeve is thicker than the dia of the key, so you can't reach the key down into deep bores. That alone should make them a no-go...I think most people will find they have to buy another set of keys when encountering that issue, dunno how that even got past the design phase. ....Bondhus has color anodized sets now so there is no sheath over the tool.
Also (gonna be that guy)....Knipex is pronounced "Keh neh pecks" 🤓
You can get different colored gaffer tape that might replace the sleeves well.
@@aspenwagon04 With such a tape, they wont fit to the holder.
@@iphone100ish I wonder, how durable is paint in colored option...
Nic is great value. Best regards Martin
You should ask Alex Howes about those Wheels. He used them on the tour divide and had major problems.
Love these
I have veery hard steel allen keys proper industrial grade and they've lasted me years. I'm slowly swapping bolts to torx where possible
i got a set of allen keys for 2€ at the hardware store when i had to assemble my first bike. i tried "upgrading" them twice with much more expensive sets but the hardware store set is still my go-to. they are plain but they have never stripped a bolt
Wera Allen keys aren't that expensive and having used dozens of different sets of Allen keys, the Wera ones are my favourite. I personally prefer their stainless version without the colour coding.
If you do want to colour code your tools I recommend nail varnish. You'll get a few funny looks at the chemist when your asking for neon green nail varnish but that's about the worst of it
Same. I got a cheap-ish set of T-shaped Allen keys from Planet X when I first started wrenching. I still have them and use them on everything with no issues.
Cheap allen keys still work fine as long as you don't need much torque.
Applications with high torque typically show the difference between a good steel and a less good one.
Bikes typically don't need that much torque on the bolts
I'm constantly amazed to see how many people like their bikes to be unnecessarily complicated😂😂
@@simonm1447 Precisely. 6 or so Nm max on the smaller bolts and of those with higher torques (e.g. cranks on square tapers) the bolt head are nice and strong and so are the larger hex heads on the cheaper tools.
do you use the knipex cable cutters also to cut cable housings?
From another Knipex fan, good choice.
I want to get some of those items! Thanks!
I’ve been using Topeak Racerocket HP for years. Nice little pump. I have to do lots (a lot!) of strokes to inflate the tires, though. Well, consider it as an arm workout, because you know, cyclists tend to have skinny weak arms. LOL
Same I've had one since the days of 26" and it still works
@@leongjordan5272 Get the RaceRocket HV version and pair it with a HV valve like the Filmore Valve. These valves have 3x the opening = you can use a HV pump which pushes 2x as much air and it'll be easier than a HP pump with a standard valve (especially if you run tubeless which tend to clog slowly over time).
Knipex makes the best braided cable cutter and it has a crimper integrated into it. Also, you NEED the hex plus shaped allen keys (Mac tools also makes similar tech called RBRT). Everything else rounds hex sockets and they're hell to extract. Buddy also needs a beard trim lookin a little scraggly there
I have those allen keys at work, i love them
Agree with most of this guy’s suggestions such as Fenwicks all conditions chain lube, but some are a bit leftfield.
I ❤ Nick's top tens
I like episodes with this guy.
Prefer my Zefal HPX frame pump to any pump you can buy in the modern market.
Classy, attractive, dead reliable and pumps a 29er 2.25 tubed tire in about 30 strokes, less than a minute.
TPU inner tubes... compact, yes. But blimey, the ones I tried punctured just by looking at them (Schwalbe Aerothans). I should at least try one or two different brands before writing them off, but I'm hesitant. I mean I thought Schwalbe would be a good robust tube.
Tubolitos look like a game changer. That price though 😬 …weight savings for bikepacking might be my justification
Yes!
KNIPEX 95 62 160 Wire Rope Cutter
They are the best the blue brand doesn't come close to last as long...
Love how you show bikeinn prices 👍👍👍👍
Nic vieri is the goat. Such a great character for your channel :)
I would like to see a "10 most loved product" velodrome/fixed-gear edition. E.g. I love my 44rn chainring
The Flexstem rides again!
Park cable cutters on the peg board because customers expect a wall of blue, Knipex for actually doing the job well
charge spoon saddle all day long any bike last rrp 29.99 Freakin Bargin
1 lezyne pump
2 san marco rolls saddle 15mm of luxury compliance
3 knipex are great (the sparky’s choice)
4 butyl is bulky but you can patch it.
5 if you like flex stems buy one
6 I’ll give you
7 frames should come faced.
8 quality Allen keys weir, bondhus, park
9
10
Much love for the Redshift stem. Been using mine for a year now. Absolutely love it.
I've been using a Vecnum freeQENCE for a couple of years and it an even better alternative in my opinion. It uses a parallelogram instead of a simple pivot, so you're bars don't change angle of attack when they flex and allows you to change the damping factor with a hex key. You can't really adjust it on the fly, but you don't need to disassemble anything either. The build of the Vecnum seems like it is built much sturdier as well which instills a lot more confidence. The only downside is the stem is not a smooth shape on top, so you can't fasten anything to it like a light or computer mount.
@@bantolphbantir9605 agree. The redshift stem is only good for flatbar steerer. With dropbars it feels awkward, especially in the hoods. Now I use the Kinekt parallelogram stem and its ALOT better. Also bought the vecnum one but didn't tried it out yet.
Simpler is better in the long run imo.
@@olbucky9413 true but the redshift pivot system isnt made for dropbars. For me at least its a nogo combination
@@stefanschuchardt5734 That's actually BS, I am riding light trails with mine on a Gravel bike just fine.
That pump was perfect for this vintage bike I'm putting together, no chance with that price however
Topeak Racerocket MT - same thing for 3rd of the price. I've used one for years.
@abotanistsghost2311 I went for the Topeak Master Blaster Road Frame Pump in the end. Thinking that a longer unit will also give me fewer pumps till it's rideable if I had to replace the inner-tube... just a theory I had
Did you remove the part of the video about the knipex cable cutter ?
If you want something like the Silca but in a MUCH smaller form factor, check out the ipump Twist. It's not cheap, but it is ridiculously light (25 g, that's not a misprint 25 fucking grams). Takes forever to pump up a tire because it delivers so little air. As long as you're not in a hurry, it's amazing.
Wow, the gravlw bike if today really is the mountain bike of the 90s! I remember when the flex stem came out, just before shock forks went mainstream
We love Nick😂😂👍🏼
'Nobody's running high pressures anymore' - really? - I adjust pressure according to terrain - if it's smooth, I run higher pressures, which is faster on smooth surfaces.
👍 SKS Air flex
👍 Selle San Marco Shortfit Dynamic
Great timing as I’m looking for a decent set of Allen keys. Which Wera set is this, as they do several different sets on their website .. all a bit confusing. Thanks
Wera Hex plus is the one I'd recommend, you can get them in alloy steel or stainless, with or without the sleeves, there's even a stubby version. You'll be looking at about €35 for a set.
I'd see Nic and James discuss short fit saddles :)
Hello sir, is it compatible? the ltwoo r7 sti with Shimano deore m5120 rd, I will make the mtb as a gravel bike
The SKS pump uses a screw-on valve attachment. Any decent budget options with a flip attachment like the $ilca?
My thoughts exactly. Screw on pump heads are a nightmare. Bit surprised at that recommendation. Shame that Silca is so silly priced.
A perfect flat stone and sandpaper :) sand your rotors perfectly flat.
I love lamp.
Regarding thermoplastic inner tubes: I read mixed reviews, and they are (way) more expensive. I am ofcourse triggered by their compact volume and very low weight (I admit, I would actually use them as I'm not riding tubeless, and not only as a spare). Any feedback with regards to mixed reviews (some had them easily punctured and said they weren't durable)?
Red shift makes some really smart stuff. Not very cheap but worth a look at it.
Those Enduro Jockey wheels... too expensive at around 200 euro for a pair. They will outlast your RD, but by that time there will be something else (like 13 speed, or a gearbox or ...), and any good 3rd party ceramic derailleur wheels set you back around 20 euro and last for at least 15-20K, so you'd have to ride 150.000-200.000K with the same RD to get the money out of the jockey wheels. That's, for most amateur riders, easily >10 years.
I tried Tubolito. A hassle to install compared to rubber tubes, and all of mine leaked through the valve...
2 out of 10 products from Northrhine-Westfalia (Wera/Knipex)! Not that bad for my country.
So the massive Parktool display is just a display 👀
Hi, could include links to the products in the description thanks
Thx for tip re CO2 with sealant.
switched to the San Marco Shortfit a short while ago, saddle search over, works great for me
Like your videos.
In Nicks opinion: What is the best depth for an allround aero road wheel?
Those Zip 101 wheels likely owe much of their comfort to their shallow profile. Deep section aero wheels will always be less compliant. No mystery there.
#1 CO2, all the way with tubes. #2 Classic 1990 style SI Flite. #3 Park Tool. #4 Michelin aircomp. #5 Ritchey WCS. #6 ??? No camera. #7 Rim Brake. #8 Park Tool. #9 OEM wheels. #10 Hand built wheels laced with GL330 (Old School)
I have a Basso Palta which has fully integrated brake and gear routing. Would the Red Shift stem be able to work on my bike?
This is only if you can find a cycling-oriented 3D-printing fabricator to custom-3D-print a spacer kit for you. Many bikes with integrated internal routing don't have the same cockpit compatibility range as those that don't run this routing configuration.
Knipex FTW!
Nic
Am I looking wrong, or do the Endura joceky wheels really cost like €180?!
I keep watching videos with this pro mechanic guy, and every time I am wondering, JUST HOW MANY YEARS OF EXPERIENCE DOES HE HAVE?
Those inner tubes retail around £30, think I'd catch a taxi home.
Get the RideNow's
Knipex pliers....... in front a WALL COVERED with Park Tool tools
Knipex pliers play in their own class. Park Tool is good but Knipex is the specialist in pliers