Pull of that wiper assembly !!! 4-10mm and 4-13mm bolts and a few minor connections that are not difficult. Don't do the rear valve cover unless it is leaking badly !!!
Good video but that wiper motor tray is super easy to remove and gives you lots of access and visibility and would makes the job a lot easier or your back
Its actually only 8 bolts I believe on plug connection for the wiper motor on the right and one little hose connection on the left for the super fluid. It also helps when changing power steering pump or water pump.
Used wobble sockets and other sockets but intake manifold on my 2005 3.8 l had a bolt ( just one rear bolt ) hidden by intake cover making it necessary to remove the intake manifold to reach it for both removal and install..maybe a closed 8-10 mm flat ratcheting wrench would have worked but doubtful as not enough room for that bolt so darn close to the cover Your video was great and helpful on all parts just the same. Maybe my Limited version of this engine is the cause
Well I got the front gasket on. I will have to tackle that rear gasket on Sunday. But the front on was leaking oil like a fountain. No idea what the rear one is doing.
Thank u so much for this video! I just bought 2007 caravan and got it home and noticed front valve cover gasket leaking. So, u have made this job a lot easier for me!! Liked and subscribed. Thanks again! One question, should front and back b changed at the same time? Thanks!!
Great video, not sure if I can remove that cowl because I think I had some issues with something was stuck when I did spark plugs, I’ll have to be very careful because it’s most likely gonna be hard to like everything back up
I thought it was odd not to take the wiper cowl completely off. It’s almost like he started, then forgot to. Also on these the oil sending unit tends to leak. On an 07 you need to use a deep socket.
That taped tool is an excellent idea! Is that just a wobble extension alone? Or is there a universal adapter as well before the 8mm socket? I will be tacking this job soon.
Hi, thanks for the video. So what did you remove the windshield wiper cowl for up above? Did that help with access to the backside? Also, what about dirt and cleaning on the backside? Did I miss where you commented on that? Is there a way to clean back there really?
That was removed for some other work I was doing on the van and does not really have any relevance to the video that I recall. What happened was the cowl rubber that lays on the windshield shrank up from age. It would let water pass in turn allowing the water to be sucked into the outside air inlet straight into the A/C register inside the van. Well water would accumulate and begin flooding the floorboard on the passenger side. I removed the cowl, cleaned out all the debris, cleaned the two water down spout channels, and vacuumed the evaporator coil drain to make sure none of those things were contributing to the problem. I was waiting for parts to arrive and why the cowl was missing. I verified the windshield was not leaking so when the new weatherstripping was installed the problem was fixed.
To clean the backside of the engine, I placed the front of the van on jack stands and sprayed the hell out of the entire area with Simple Green. I let it sit for hours then came back and hit it best I could with the water hose sprayer. Fortunately my driveway drains down hill so I was able to stay dry.
I looked over ur channel u have some good videos on DC and T&C but wonder if u do one on fuel injector wire harness.. I just found out mine is melted.. have experience with this before?? My DGC-01 van keep giving me bunch random codes and I keep replacing and still not fixed.. my car would only crank if kept foot on pedal and when left off it stall.. their were other things going on prior but sharing most recent.. when it did giving signs something was wrong was jerking and can’t get past 40mph and then it started stalling randomly.. Then strange noise toward muffler sound like clogged but it only 2 yr old muffler… anyway I changed the codes some examples Map, IAC, EGR,but took off EGR upper part and it was clogged up wit black sult or something.. clean that.. I wish utube let u upload pics to share with u all . I know explaining is hard when mechanic like u need more details while ur trying giving advice… pic are 1,000 words…I never experienced this on vehicle before.. I been without my van for over 2 yrs.. I’m hoping the wire harness is the issue since it melted.. it hard to find videos on it… I’m stumble over wire harness when someone else had bunch codes thrown out.. said after they put it on it ran like brand new… lol.. they never explained how they done it.. I heard Our vans are prone to this where it next to exhaust manifold and it melts it if close contact… I fig mine happen after someone did my plugs& wires and probably forgot to bring it back up.. that’s when things started giving me issues …. Thanks for the video on this..
When a harness melts all bets are off. Nothing will work correctly, grounds are compromised, and the ECM could be damaged. You may find that it will cost thousands to repair your van. And thruthfully, I have not seen one worth it as of yet to fix at that expense.
@@BOSSC351sProductions Hi sir, thanks for ur reply.. omg I hope not … i can’t afford another car… I appreciate ur reply.. may I ask what other tools can u use on back for valve cover??? bcz I don’t have any swivel ones … I just wish they didn’t make things so hard to get to… one more my back ones leaking the most, I might get month before having to add 1/2 quart oil..depends , but if I can’t get it off will it damage my new plugs and wires fouling out till I can see if starts after getting the harness on? My harness just arrived.. Ik had my plugs fouled out in back before… I was gonna changed the oil after the gaskets, plugs… idk now… I appreciate all ur help and suggestions…. Ty
@@BOSSC351sProductions hi, I wanted to update u on van just got melted harnesses off and new one on, it started up with no problem so far… except my clock and overhead control with compass and temp is not turning on….. since gas got in the oil from plugs and injectors , I was going to change oil but will it hurt driving it to get to place to change it?? Thanks!
I can't stress this enough. You MUST have the SLIM 1/4" swivel and/or a proper wobble socket for this bolts under the intake on both sides. I have a cheap swivel from amazon that is just fat enough that it's an absolute nightmare. Don't even try unless you have the right tools for this job.
The front easy.. I had someone do that one .. the back one seems to be harder unless u have 2 people with them holding the flashlight to see behind it.. I’ve own many cars in my time and these minivan are worst on getting to parts that normal cars it breeze.. idk why they did the engine this way,, I rather seen wider width or longer engine compartment to get easy access.. Dodge makes it hard so they can make money off u so u go to dealership to fix it… my 2€
So i need 1/4 in with long extention and 1/4 swivel with tape. My eyes are not so good so was hard fornme tonsee what ur configuration was. I had a difficult time to get rhe 2 bolts under the manifold so gave up. Ill try agsinnext week with 1/4 in if thats what u used
The bolt sleeves with grommets. Ah ok. Its been a while. You should be able to pull them out of the valve cover with a bit of force. The hardest part was getting the old grommets to come off the sleeves. I cut several with some wire cutters. To put grommets on lube them with silicone spray. Then reinstall the sleeves by pushing them into the valve cover holes.
Straight up not diluted. I sprayed it down real good and let it sit for about an hour. Sprayed it off with a power washer at a slight distance and then repeat. Fairly oily greasy areas you will have to soak and reappy soak and reapply soak then power wash it clean.
i replaced the gasket on the front side, got it all back together, now my van won’t start. all lights still come on, the gauges just jump around and it doesn’t even try starting
Thank you for sharing this video. My 2007 Town & country has a misfire and low compression in cylinder 3 and I'm going to remove the rear valve cover to see if there's anything unusual inside there. When I drive up hills I hear a ticking noise so I'm guessing it's a rocker or valve spring issue...only one way to find out lol.
Was it a rocker or valve spring issue? Or could it be that higher octane fuel would stop the pinging? My Grand Caravan also has these symptoms. My misfire was caused by a defective ignition coil.
Removing the intake really isn't going far into it. It's no more difficult than trying to do the rear valve cover blindly. Just be gentle with the intake since it's plastic and could be somewhat brittle depending on age and mileage. And if the plenum gaskets make u question reuse, then just replace them it's cheap and ur already there. Won't take but 10 or 15 minutes working slowly to have everything including the upper plenum off for better access. U can also remove that metal cross bracket and it will open up alot more visible room on the back but in my opinion removing the intake is the better of the 2 routes, takes very little time to do so, and the car will greatly thank you for the freshened up intake to help her breathe a little better once again! Super easy! good luck and just pay attention and you will be just fine! Last thing I'd like to add is if removing the intake please if ur unfamiliar with when bolts feel "tight" then I'd absolutely torque the plenum back down to spec for safe measure! Vacuum leaks ain't no fun and neither r broken bolts. Chances are the plenum will require torque in INCH LBS not ft lbs!
The cowl vent was off for something else. Not everyone can or wants to disassemble theirs that far. This was made to show a short cut that works. Next time I will likely remove all of it.
You can if you want to. Or remove the intake. Or neither depending on ability. It is all in what the mechanic wants to do and I did not feel removing any of that was necessary at the time.
Best video I've found on replacing the valve cover gaskets where you don't have to disassemble the rest of the car. :)
Thank you!
the black tape tip was awesome 👍
Appreciate the video lots of help.💪
Sure do wish I had this cats skills. Keep my 03 Caravan running even longer than she already is.
Pull of that wiper assembly !!! 4-10mm and 4-13mm bolts and a few minor connections that are not difficult. Don't do the rear valve cover unless it is leaking badly !!!
Good video but that wiper motor tray is super easy to remove and gives you lots of access and visibility and would makes the job a lot easier or your back
That's what I am saying. Since he already has the cowl removed, he might as well remove the assembly. It's being held by 12 or 13mm bolts I imagine.
Its actually only 8 bolts I believe on plug connection for the wiper motor on the right and one little hose connection on the left for the super fluid. It also helps when changing power steering pump or water pump.
Exactly
Thank you sir for making this A LOT easier to pick up on and do!
My goal!
Used wobble sockets and other sockets but intake manifold on my 2005 3.8 l had a bolt ( just one rear bolt ) hidden by intake cover making it necessary to remove the intake manifold to reach it for both removal and install..maybe a closed 8-10 mm flat ratcheting wrench would have worked but doubtful as not enough room for that bolt so darn close to the cover Your video was great and helpful on all parts just the same. Maybe my Limited version of this engine is the cause
Thanks so much for this video!! You are awesome!
Awesome video. I will be doing this same job on my 2005 V6
Well I got the front gasket on. I will have to tackle that rear gasket on Sunday. But the front on was leaking oil like a fountain. No idea what the rear one is doing.
Thanks for sharing this video very helpful
Thank you! Please like!
Thanks for saving me money! :D
Great video thankl you
Thank u so much for this video! I just bought 2007 caravan and got it home and noticed front valve cover gasket leaking. So, u have made this job a lot easier for me!! Liked and subscribed. Thanks again!
One question, should front and back b changed at the same time? Thanks!!
Just remove the wiper cowl the job go so much faster and IS less frustrating.
Use a puller to remove the wiper arms; and don't break the windshield by prying on them.
Great video, not sure if I can remove that cowl because I think I had some issues with something was stuck when I did spark plugs, I’ll have to be very careful because it’s most likely gonna be hard to like everything back up
I thought it was odd not to take the wiper cowl completely off. It’s almost like he started, then forgot to. Also on these the oil sending unit tends to leak. On an 07 you need to use a deep socket.
Where is this oil sending unit?
Also, take the time to take the wiper cowl off and change the rear spark plugs and wires. Get it all in one shot and be done with it.
That taped tool is an excellent idea! Is that just a wobble extension alone? Or is there a universal adapter as well before the 8mm socket? I will be tacking this job soon.
Universal joint adaptor with electrical tape. I suggest this to everyone.
Good job
Hi, thanks for the video. So what did you remove the windshield wiper cowl for up above? Did that help with access to the backside? Also, what about dirt and cleaning on the backside? Did I miss where you commented on that? Is there a way to clean back there really?
That was removed for some other work I was doing on the van and does not really have any relevance to the video that I recall. What happened was the cowl rubber that lays on the windshield shrank up from age. It would let water pass in turn allowing the water to be sucked into the outside air inlet straight into the A/C register inside the van. Well water would accumulate and begin flooding the floorboard on the passenger side. I removed the cowl, cleaned out all the debris, cleaned the two water down spout channels, and vacuumed the evaporator coil drain to make sure none of those things were contributing to the problem. I was waiting for parts to arrive and why the cowl was missing. I verified the windshield was not leaking so when the new weatherstripping was installed the problem was fixed.
To clean the backside of the engine, I placed the front of the van on jack stands and sprayed the hell out of the entire area with Simple Green. I let it sit for hours then came back and hit it best I could with the water hose sprayer. Fortunately my driveway drains down hill so I was able to stay dry.
I looked over ur channel u have some good videos on DC and T&C but wonder if u do one on fuel injector wire harness.. I just found out mine is melted.. have experience with this before?? My DGC-01 van keep giving me bunch random codes and I keep replacing and still not fixed.. my car would only crank if kept foot on pedal and when left off it stall.. their were other things going on prior but sharing most recent.. when it did giving signs something was wrong was jerking and can’t get past 40mph and then it started stalling randomly..
Then strange noise toward muffler sound like clogged but it only 2 yr old muffler… anyway I changed the codes some examples Map, IAC, EGR,but took off EGR upper part and it was clogged up wit black sult or something.. clean that..
I wish utube let u upload pics to share with u all . I know explaining is hard when mechanic like u need more details while ur trying giving advice… pic are 1,000 words…I never experienced this on vehicle before.. I been without my van for over 2 yrs.. I’m hoping the wire harness is the issue since it melted.. it hard to find videos on it… I’m stumble over wire harness when someone else had bunch codes thrown out.. said after they put it on it ran like brand new… lol.. they never explained how they done it.. I heard Our vans are prone to this where it next to exhaust manifold and it melts it if close contact… I fig mine happen after someone did my plugs& wires and probably forgot to bring it back up.. that’s when things started giving me issues …. Thanks for the video on this..
When a harness melts all bets are off. Nothing will work correctly, grounds are compromised, and the ECM could be damaged. You may find that it will cost thousands to repair your van. And thruthfully, I have not seen one worth it as of yet to fix at that expense.
@@BOSSC351sProductions Hi sir, thanks for ur reply.. omg I hope not … i can’t afford another car… I appreciate ur reply..
may I ask what other tools can u use on back for valve cover??? bcz I don’t have any swivel ones … I just wish they didn’t make things so hard to get to…
one more my back ones leaking the most, I might get month before having to add 1/2 quart oil..depends , but if I can’t get it off will it damage my new plugs and wires fouling out till I can see if starts after getting the harness on? My harness just arrived.. Ik had my plugs fouled out in back before…
I was gonna changed the oil after the gaskets, plugs… idk now… I appreciate all ur help and suggestions…. Ty
@@BOSSC351sProductions hi, I wanted to update u on van just got melted harnesses off and new one on, it started up with no problem so far… except my clock and overhead control with compass and temp is not turning on…..
since gas got in the oil from plugs and injectors , I was going to change oil but will it hurt driving it to get to place to change it?? Thanks!
I can't stress this enough. You MUST have the SLIM 1/4" swivel and/or a proper wobble socket for this bolts under the intake on both sides. I have a cheap swivel from amazon that is just fat enough that it's an absolute nightmare. Don't even try unless you have the right tools for this job.
The front easy.. I had someone do that one .. the back one seems to be harder unless u have 2 people with them holding the flashlight to see behind it..
I’ve own many cars in my time and these minivan are worst on getting to parts that normal cars it breeze.. idk why they did the engine this way,, I rather seen wider width or longer engine compartment to get easy access.. Dodge makes it hard so they can make money off u so u go to dealership to fix it… my 2€
So i need 1/4 in with long extention and 1/4 swivel with tape. My eyes are not so good so was hard fornme tonsee what ur configuration was. I had a difficult time to get rhe 2 bolts under the manifold so gave up. Ill try agsinnext week with 1/4 in if thats what u used
I’m doing my gaskets how do u get the sleeve off? U showed everything but that part I don’t want to break or crack it Ty….
Im sorry but I am not sure what you are referring to.
@@BOSSC351sProductions I’m sorry on the gaskets u called it sleeves you take off to put the Grommets on..
The bolt sleeves with grommets. Ah ok. Its been a while. You should be able to pull them out of the valve cover with a bit of force. The hardest part was getting the old grommets to come off the sleeves. I cut several with some wire cutters. To put grommets on lube them with silicone spray. Then reinstall the sleeves by pushing them into the valve cover holes.
@@BOSSC351sProductions thank u I’ll try it…
@@BOSSC351sProductions thanks!
What did you use to clean that engine before you started the work?
Simple Green
@@BOSSC351sProductions
Did you use it straight up in a spray bottle? Then rinse? Or another method? Thanks!
Straight up not diluted. I sprayed it down real good and let it sit for about an hour. Sprayed it off with a power washer at a slight distance and then repeat. Fairly oily greasy areas you will have to soak and reappy soak and reapply soak then power wash it clean.
i replaced the gasket on the front side, got it all back together, now my van won’t start. all lights still come on, the gauges just jump around and it doesn’t even try starting
Did u get it to run
Thank you for sharing this video. My 2007 Town & country has a misfire and low compression in cylinder 3 and I'm going to remove the rear valve cover to see if there's anything unusual inside there. When I drive up hills I hear a ticking noise so I'm guessing it's a rocker or valve spring issue...only one way to find out lol.
How did it go?
Yeah?? Been having the same issue, how’d it go??
Was it a rocker or valve spring issue? Or could it be that higher octane fuel would stop the pinging? My Grand Caravan also has these symptoms. My misfire was caused by a defective ignition coil.
I’m short is there an easier way to see the black piece? Could I remove more stuff?
Yes, you can go as far as removing the intake to access the area.
Removing the intake really isn't going far into it. It's no more difficult than trying to do the rear valve cover blindly. Just be gentle with the intake since it's plastic and could be somewhat brittle depending on age and mileage. And if the plenum gaskets make u question reuse, then just replace them it's cheap and ur already there. Won't take but 10 or 15 minutes working slowly to have everything including the upper plenum off for better access. U can also remove that metal cross bracket and it will open up alot more visible room on the back but in my opinion removing the intake is the better of the 2 routes, takes very little time to do so, and the car will greatly thank you for the freshened up intake to help her breathe a little better once again! Super easy! good luck and just pay attention and you will be just fine! Last thing I'd like to add is if removing the intake please if ur unfamiliar with when bolts feel "tight" then I'd absolutely torque the plenum back down to spec for safe measure! Vacuum leaks ain't no fun and neither r broken bolts. Chances are the plenum will require torque in INCH LBS not ft lbs!
@@Dubsspeed What presure should I use to screw back the valve cover???
@@jantechniczek1625 The valve cover bolt torque specifications are 105 INCH•POUNDS.
You have the wiper tray 1/2 apart, why not take it off? I can remove it in less than 5 minutes
The cowl vent was off for something else. Not everyone can or wants to disassemble theirs that far. This was made to show a short cut that works. Next time I will likely remove all of it.
What was the torque spec on those valve cover bolts?
105 inch pounds
How about a swiveling power ratchet?
You know. For a fwd v6, this was relatively easy.
Mines leaking in the same front spot
it would be much easier to remove front motor mount bolt and the engine would rock forward giving more room to take the back bolts out!
make a longer intro maybe like 3 or 4 minutes of pure introduction on every single video
I do on some but try to get to the point on others. Thank you for the advice.
Instead of tearing all that up it only takes another 5 minutes to pull the rest of the cowl panel off
should have taken tray off altogether
Why not just remove the whole wiper tray?
You can if you want to. Or remove the intake. Or neither depending on ability. It is all in what the mechanic wants to do and I did not feel removing any of that was necessary at the time.