I'm absolutely dying to know what you all have to say about the newest research with Bacteria (out of Australia), their interactions of feeding plants via the inside of the root systems!! How incredible after all this time, with some of the newer tech out to see past what was possible to see before!! Should totally have a discussion video so you can talk about its implications for us all. I'm sure we are all equally blown away about this discovery and this wild addition to what we all know about the soil food web! Thanks for all your incredible information.
I've been scouring UA-cam for soil-building information for many years and today was the first time I've seen Dr. Elaine's name and her videos. I wish I had found her sooner. But it's not too late because I'm here now and I'm learning. Thank you for your wealth of knowledge and for your channel and for your videos!!
Dr Elaine Ingram is a truly brilliant scientist and the Trevi Fountain of all things soil, and what a fantastic person too. Through her ease of explaining things this goes to all levels of understanding, and in all her lectures, an abundance of information is exchanged to back up her statements. I hope the world recognises Dr Ingram’s work, which is so so important to climate change. It’s very important to our soil, and this is our life, our health and our well-being. Its sensible approach is already helping against famine, much better land use and most importantly, and looking after soils, who in turn look after insects, birds and animals of this beautiful world, none had a voice, especially the soil until Dr Ingram gave them one. They do not deserve the way us humans have treated them and still treat them, and Mother Earth, especially during the past centuries. Dr Elaine Ingram MUST be nominated, an hopefully receive the Noble Peace Prize, how else could you repay this wonderful persons life long commitment to helping us, to help our soil, to help our plants health, to help our health and our life. (And before anyone says anything about being biased, I’m not singed up, or been on any of her courses as I could not afford to do so. I watch all her lectures and write down all the plethora of information she kindly shares in UA-cam, I have two notebooks worth of information, and have created compost in days, had great results, and I’m educating those around me too, of the importance of soil). Thank you Dr Ingram and your associates for sharing every fact you find.
Truly hate for the haters that thinkElians work is about Woman's Power, I believe she's about human achieving for this earth to keep it healthy for ever. Let her do her work and let anyone else save our future with or without balls.
Dr.Elaine seems awsome. I just wish the lefties involved would stop interjecting their BS. I don't care that she is a "woman scientist" I care that she is competent and correct. I would also like if they stopped using the scare propaganda in some of their videos.... the "only 60 years of top soil left" I am all for getting away from the dectructive and unpredictable consciences of mass chemical warfare used on farms, yards, and gardens... but that is the furthest I would go on the scare mongering when trying to push this system. If the benifits the examples she gives are real then the results should be 1000% of the sales pitch. Farmers are right leaning. Get them with Facts and Evidence. Because people are people most will reject it because it is diffrent.... but not all. If someone in the area gets noteable results, others will then want it too.
Thanks for the lecture. My problem is gathering manure, browns, and greens in my area, Philippines. Most uses feeds, insecticide, antibiotics, and pesticides.
Well start putting in your chickens giving them fruits and veggies and greens which there are surplus .many cows are grass fed,i dont know which part of the phils are you in, i just come from my vacation and my dad is using organic fertilizer.
Guys, r u also from the Philippines? I hope we can work together to bring the technology of Dr. Elaine Ingham and her team to our country. I'm based in Candelaria, Quezon in Luzon Calabarzon area. We need to have a mini lab and equipped the person in the lab with the essential skills from SOIL FOOD WEB School and we can start with that..
Same. I can get a lot of rice hulls and chicken manure but hesitate to use them because everyone sprays their ricefields heavily and the chickens are factory-type raised and pumped full of who-knows-what to be harvestable in 28 days.
😂You say that like the people in control CARE about their actions. Only the little people care about things like life and the future. The ones in control care about money and keeping control. If you need proof do a little research into electric cars, solar and wind power. The ones pushing it KNOW the cars are dirtier and more destructive than gas cars. They also know fossil fuels are both renewable and need to be used to keep balance in the ecosystem. The only thing that needs cut down is one time use plastic. Going back to wax paper, and glass would be healthy but people are so afraid of germs they can't stand the idea of reusable items.
I’m wondering if with these certifications I would be able to support a family. I have a B.S. in Biology and have recently decided to turn down my Med School acceptance. This really interests me.
Hi Danny, check out our webinars about Careers in Soil Regeneration: ua-cam.com/video/CqkNHm9o4CM/v-deo.html, we have quite a few more on our YT channel as well as our website: www.soilfoodweb.com/resources/testimonials-videos/?vID=470279480%3Fh%3D103139eeb8
@Phil Jermakian In part yes, although I don't think its a bioweapon haha. I believe that in the face of political pressure, instead of being scientifically minded adults, many physicians chose the path of blind allegiance to the federal government and those informing them.
Can urea fertilizers phosphorus be applied properly too soil and benefit worms not hurt them what should do if want go more slow worm composting than bacterial compost and would it be worth it.
Hello, I was just wondering how to deal with Southern Blight, and how you might identify or distinguish it under microscope. It would also be ideal to know that there were some combative biology that could be employed for its control. Given my experience with Southern blight infecting low sprawling mat forming plants (i.e. Creeping Jenny) and spreading wide and rapidly through them, I would be reluctant to use the Dicondra personally.
So on the graph comparing conventional to Keyline with compost tea the conclusions drawn by Dr. Elaine mention exclusively biology as causal factor for the increase in yield and water retention. Wouldn't the actual keyline rips have had significant influence in the results of the trial?
I've been growing-out endo-myco plugs using winter kill cover crops that I transplant into new garden areas come spring. I plant the seedlings or seeds direclty next to the plugs. Most myco products are DOA due to heat sensitivity during transport & storage. I also found making gallons of compost tea exhausting and a questionable process due to heat death of fungi. I much prefer using worm & compost extracts gentliy bubbled in my cool basement to kick start seedlings & seed germination. Do you know of any study that compares yeilds between myco plugs & compost teas? Making endo-myco plugs was a thing some years ago using various methods. It's rarely discussed now. I'm assuming it's because of the time factor in grow out.
Hi I'm from Pakistan I just shifted my citrus orchard to raise beds and no till method .I have stoped using fertilizer and pesticides and I'm using mulch to cover land but this year pest have destroyed my citrus and I have stoped fertilizer s too and the plants seem weak do I need to supply organic tea and organic fertilizer .kindly guide me I love my citrus orchard
THANK YOU, FOR ALL OF THIS AMAZING INFORMATION!!! WHAT IS THE BEST METHOD(S) TO FEEDING, AND INCREASING THE QUANTITY, AND DIVERSITY OD FUNGAL SPECIES IN THE SOIL PROFILE?! (..BY ADDING OLD WOOD CHIPS & TREE BARK"... OR, MAYBE SHREDDED PAPER & CARDBOARD?)...
yes!!!...i have a friend who has it in his garden and he asked me the same question .....Often considered invasive, this plant will grow in some of the worst conditions. Purslane does not need fertilizer to survive. Purslane covers the soil to create a living mulch which helps to protect soil and retain moisture. They like slightly acidic soil pH of 5.5 to 7. It is one of the few plants that are rich in omega-3 fatty acids.....so it is certainly a fungal food.
I wouldn't count on Purslane as a cover crop. It's overall production is small, but it's value is poorly underestimated because it's such a valuable plant. So don't pull it out, but encourage it.
@@Nightowl5454 not sure why you would say its production is small....its considered invasive .......It grows rapidly on its own, producing flowers for about three weeks. Purslane spreads rapidly when it is allowed to go to seed. Plants that are uprooted but not removed from the site may begin growing again. Plants need to be pulled by hand to keep them from spreading. Common purslane is a prolific seeder. A single plant may produce 240,000 seeds, which may germinate even after 5 to 40 years. Because of its ability to produce large numbers of seeds, common purslane can rapidly colonize any warm, moist site. A few scattered plants in the first year can become an almost solid carpet of purslane the following year. Its ability to reroot after cultivation or hoeing frequently enables it to survive these cultural control practices. Common purslane is low in stature and forms dense mats. These vegetative mats utilize available moisture and nutrients and screen out light to the soil surface, preventing emergence of other seedlings. Common purslane is unsightly, reducing the esthetic value of turf and ornamental plantings. Common purslane is edible, with a sweet, yet acidlike flavor. An excellent crunchy salad plant, it is said to blend well with hotter-flavored salad herbs. It has been cultivated in India and the Middle East and has been popular in Europe since the Middle Ages. In the United States, common purslane is a minor crop because of its use in ethnic cooking and its reputed health benefits of bioprotective nutrients (antioxidants, vitamins, and amino acids).It was first identified in the United States in 1672 in Massachusetts
@@jeremyschissler337 it's simple math, conpare the amount of biomass production of purslane compared to any other cover crop and you'll quickly realize purslane falls far short. The only advantages of purslane is resilience and nutritional value, so it isn't something I'd focus on. Clovers, dandelions are both more productive than purslane, but if purslane does decide to come up then allow it too.
@@Nightowl5454 that only makes sense if you want more cellulose or lignin biomass in particular....clover and dandelions are low in lignin and not as good of fungal food and will not help you improve fungal dominance like purslane ....nore do they produce reductive compounds that prevent oxidation like it does .....biomass is not the metric to use when selecting a cover crop unless the goal is to produce more biomass. ...i understand the desire to produce biomass but biomass can be quantified in many ways ....like fungal biomass or bacterial .....lignin or cellulose ....so the volume of biomass has very little to do with the actual decision unless that is the goal ............biomass isn't a trustworthy metric to reveal photosynthetic efficiency or exudation....also plants that produce a lot of biomass require more nutrients to be cycled which could cause issues in gardens with poor fertility ...where purslane on the other hand needs very little ionic nutrition...and since it doesn't require much carbon for cellulose production it can put that into the ground as an exudate and focus on lipid production a cow fed corn will produce more biomass than one fed grass....but which is a healthier cow?........bigger is not better
I have a food forest that includes bushes and trees (pears, plums, cherry, apple, blueberries, currents, gooseberries, service berries, etc.). Fungi will gradually increase in dominance itself just because you're growing trees and bushes there, but I speed it up by adding a minimum of 4" of arborist woodchips to start. After that keep adding an inch or two each year as it decays. To get more fungi, you need to give them food. Not only will this feed fungi, but the woodchips will protect the surface of the soil from UV, stabilize soil temperature, keep moisture in, and still allow ample air exchange for oxygen due to its coarseness. Basically if you feed them, they will come :)
@@nikolapopov7038 I recommend Linda Chalker-Scott's book "How Plants Work: The Science Behind the Amazing Things Plants Do (Science for Gardeners)". It concentrates more on perennial fungi-dominated horticulture rather than bacterial dominated annual vegetable gardening.
I have a mystery. I have a small orchard with apple, pear, cherry, peach and plum. All the trees produce, except the plum. They are 4 years old, itialian, damson and seed grown (these are 6 years old). NOne of the plum even flower. I have tried compost, wood mulch, organic fert, seaweed folar feed and grass clipping mulch. The trees are sprinkled around the orchard, but within 50 feet of each other. I think it is a soil issue, but can't figure it out. Wet PNW zone 8 Any ideas??
Elaine co-authored the Soil Biology Primer, you can access it for free here: www.nrcs.usda.gov/wps/portal/nrcs/detailfull/national/soils/health/?cid=nrcs142p2_053860, or purchase it for all the photos. Email us at info@soilfoodweb.com if you are interested in getting Dr. Elaine's recommended reading list of books.
Hi Carmelo - compost extract is different than compost tea. We soak seeds in compost extract, which is an aerated water-extraction of compost. Compost tea is an aerated water-extraction of compost that has been fed and brewed.
@@soilfoodwebschool Oohhhh, right. Just like worm extract. You just wrap it up and slap it around in the water. I know the worm extracts have plant hormones in them right? Bag it, slap it, aerate it = extraction vs bag it, aerate it for 24 hours is the tea. Thank you for clarifying that
Really I had wanted to witness the live programme at soil food web school but I have internet and Android as well as computer problem. I am from Sierra Leone west Africa came from a poor background and still struggling in order for me to be educated.
Hi Mohamed, have you tried watching the videos at a lower resolution, it may help! To do so, go to the settings gear in the lower right hand corner of the UA-cam player, then lower the quality down until the video will play on your device. The resolution may not be great, but you should be able to hear the audio fairly well.
I need a Doctor, Dr Eileen Ingram, can you make a house call? I think if you want a challenge and would like to show the world that your work will work even in the worst conditions you should have a look at my property. I'm going to do it but would love to have you oversee the project. If I'm successful everyone in the world will jump on board.
@Richard Bell Sr You can send Dr. Elaine details of your project to info@soilfoodweb.com Also qualified Soil Consultants are ready to advise you now: www.soilfoodweb.com/consultants/
I challenge all of you to fix my soil, I will do the work, I just need you to lead the way, Dr Eileen Ingram says all dirt has all the nutrients required to grow. Okay, I'm certainly open to that. First let me describe my dirt, hahaha. Rock hard when dry, muddy mush when wet, clay, eroded in patches, I have native grass in pasture and around water ways like my pond and creek, weeds don't grow in my grass but my garden and greenhouse has enormous amount of weeds. From watching several of her videos it seems like I need to get organic matter into my dirt to loosen it up, would this be my first step? I'm thinking I need to compost the organic matter first to avoid anaerobic conditions? The biggest question is this, I know tilling is horrible for microbes but how do I get organic matter into the soil if I don't till it in? Should I till it in and then go no till from there? I can add compost on top but it really isn't going to correct the conditions of the dirt or will it? Everything I have is invested in my homestead so I have to make this work. I have almost 300 animals who are also dependent on me making this happen. Eileen is asking if I have several species of good guys or bad guys. I don't know who the good guys are or who the bad guys are. I want to apply Dr Eileen Ingram's methods, I need help, is there scholarship to her courses? Does she have online classes or do you have to tend her classes in person? Where do I get microrizal fungi? So many questions!
@Richard Bell Sr Please feel free to send us your questions to info@soilfoodweb.com To learn more about our course offerings, please let us know about your goals and interests so that we can help you find the course(s) that will work best for you.
Grow crops like clover, rye, rape and daikon radish. Mulch them with leaves and grass clippings for one year at least then now down and til under. Test the consistency and pH/minerals of the soil after that first tilling. That may be all you need to do. You want to have a good workable soil that isn't claylike. If it's still a clay mess do the same thing another year. Test again. By the second year you should have enough biomass worked in that you can go no till if you desire. Myocorrhizal fungi can be purchased in small amounts and added to the soil after the tilling and planting to restore them faster. You can also make leaf mould tea and water the area.
I think worm compost is a good way to help improve our soil. But all worm compost is not the same. Has someone set up a standard way to rate the effectiveness of worm compost?
@@jimmydykes7961 they also make garden covers, perforated ones that allow for much better soil water retention. I've seen em fairly often in areas with low average anual rainfall
Dump ALL incumbents. I just transplanted (mid-May) 20 six foot tall dormant plum trees, all from "rich" soil to rich soil. I did not see even one earthworm, grub, nothing. It is the same since I moved to this very small town in the middle of no-where 4 years ago. It's climate is similar to central Appalachia. Last summer we had a few grasshoppers about 1/4 the size of when I was kid 50 years ago. Zero moths flying around the outside lights, etc., etc. We don't even have mosquitos This is not an agricultural area. Has lawn chemicals done this??? The only urban area is 200 miles away.
To jump start a new gardening plot, could I just go collect leaf mold from some old growth trees in my area and make a tea to start the fungi balancing?
@JA M Feel free to reach out to us with your questions so our science team can address them. And to learn more about our course offerings, please let us know about your goals and interests so that we can help you find the course(s) that will work best for you. Send to info@soilfoodweb.com
Since they didn't answer your question I will. Yes. If you can find a forest go to the biggest tree you can see and dig the top layers of leaves away. Find the rich brown leaf mould and collect a few handfuls. Put those in a non metal container and add filtered or rain water. Let it sit for a few days and then use it to water your garden. Just add more mould and water as you use it.
There's nothing wrong with cover crops, just learn how to save seed and grow your own. The cover plants she talks about, for the most part, can not be grazed. This makes sense coming from a vegetarian like Elaine, but doesn't work for most of us. The grazing aspect, if properly managed, accelerates soil improvement. It's a shame that each wannabe guru has his/her own set of things they preach and another set they dismiss, conflicting with the other wannabe gurus. It puts us in the position of having to discern what info to keep and what to toss from each of them. Elaine is great, but she isn't infallible, and she isn't correct about everything.
@Josue Osorio Thank you for your comment. We are a for profit school with a mission to empower people to regenerate their soils. We do not receive funding from any government or non-governmental sources. Rather, we collaborate with, and support, other organizations. One example is Tiyeni.org for whom we helped raise over $100k in 2021. Tiyeni have trained over 17,000 farmers in Malawi, Africa, to use regenerative practices, thereby increasing their yields by an average of 146% in year 1. This is life-changing for many of these farmers. The school has also invested in research projects. And as our knowledge advances, we are constantly updating our course content. We are working towards broadening the educational content provided by the school, to include lots of other, useful information for farmers, ranchers and growers, designed to help them transition fully to regenerative agriculture in whatever setting they may be. I hope this insight into what the Soil Food Web School is about will go some way towards alleviating your concerns. Please feel free to reach out to our team with any questions here: info@soilfoodweb.com
@conocimientoexpandido I am sure you can find all the research papers involved with this. The school has overhead, equipment, employees to pay for. Just like college courses. You have access to all the info they can provide for free.... yet people still go and pay for the hands on instruction.
✅ This webinar is an extension of the Soil Regen Summit 2022, sign up FREE to view full Summit replays! 👉 bit.ly/3Gua1zw
I'm absolutely dying to know what you all have to say about the newest research with Bacteria (out of Australia), their interactions of feeding plants via the inside of the root systems!! How incredible after all this time, with some of the newer tech out to see past what was possible to see before!!
Should totally have a discussion video so you can talk about its implications for us all. I'm sure we are all equally blown away about this discovery and this wild addition to what we all know about the soil food web! Thanks for all your incredible information.
I've been scouring UA-cam for soil-building information for many years and today was the first time I've seen Dr. Elaine's name and her videos. I wish I had found her sooner. But it's not too late because I'm here now and I'm learning. Thank you for your wealth of knowledge and for your channel and for your videos!!
Welcome!
Dr Elaine Ingram is a truly brilliant scientist and the Trevi Fountain of all things soil, and what a fantastic person too. Through her ease of explaining things this goes to all levels of understanding, and in all her lectures, an abundance of information is exchanged to back up her statements. I hope the world recognises Dr Ingram’s work, which is so so important to climate change. It’s very important to our soil, and this is our life, our health and our well-being. Its sensible approach is already helping against famine, much better land use and most importantly, and looking after soils, who in turn look after insects, birds and animals of this beautiful world, none had a voice, especially the soil until Dr Ingram gave them one. They do not deserve the way us humans have treated them and still treat them, and Mother Earth, especially during the past centuries. Dr Elaine Ingram MUST be nominated, an hopefully receive the Noble Peace Prize, how else could you repay this wonderful persons life long commitment to helping us, to help our soil, to help our plants health, to help our health and our life. (And before anyone says anything about being biased, I’m not singed up, or been on any of her courses as I could not afford to do so. I watch all her lectures and write down all the plethora of information she kindly shares in UA-cam, I have two notebooks worth of information, and have created compost in days, had great results, and I’m educating those around me too, of the importance of soil). Thank you Dr Ingram and your associates for sharing every fact you find.
Ready to learn all about soil food web
Thx Dr. Elaine for you insight. Billy in Uganda
And I 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 as you announce Doctor Elaine.
Truly hate for the haters that thinkElians work is about Woman's Power, I believe she's about human achieving for this earth to keep it healthy for ever.
Let her do her work and let anyone else save our future with or without balls.
Dr.Elaine seems awsome.
I just wish the lefties involved would stop interjecting their BS.
I don't care that she is a "woman scientist" I care that she is competent and correct.
I would also like if they stopped using the scare propaganda in some of their videos.... the "only 60 years of top soil left"
I am all for getting away from the dectructive and unpredictable consciences of mass chemical warfare used on farms, yards, and gardens... but that is the furthest I would go on the scare mongering when trying to push this system. If the benifits the examples she gives are real then the results should be 1000% of the sales pitch.
Farmers are right leaning.
Get them with Facts and Evidence.
Because people are people most will reject it because it is diffrent.... but not all. If someone in the area gets noteable results, others will then want it too.
Thanks for the lecture. My problem is gathering manure, browns, and greens in my area, Philippines. Most uses feeds, insecticide, antibiotics, and pesticides.
Well start putting in your chickens giving them fruits and veggies and greens which there are surplus .many cows are grass fed,i dont know which part of the phils are you in, i just come from my vacation and my dad is using organic fertilizer.
Guys, r u also from the Philippines? I hope we can work together to bring the technology of Dr. Elaine Ingham and her team to our country. I'm based in Candelaria, Quezon in Luzon Calabarzon area. We need to have a mini lab and equipped the person in the lab with the essential skills from SOIL FOOD WEB School and we can start with that..
Same. I can get a lot of rice hulls and chicken manure but hesitate to use them because everyone sprays their ricefields heavily and the chickens are factory-type raised and pumped full of who-knows-what to be harvestable in 28 days.
I use coffee chaff as a brown. It improves your soil.
@@almlicon48 do you mean spent coffee grounds? There's a study that they actually stunt plant growth. Best to compost them first
Excellent review; thank you!
starts at 5:07
Awesome!
Thanks!
#SaveSoil 🥰
#SaveSoil
No one should graduate from a high school without competent knowledge in soil biology, which would’ve eliminated most of climate crisis today.
😂You say that like the people in control CARE about their actions.
Only the little people care about things like life and the future. The ones in control care about money and keeping control.
If you need proof do a little research into electric cars, solar and wind power. The ones pushing it KNOW the cars are dirtier and more destructive than gas cars. They also know fossil fuels are both renewable and need to be used to keep balance in the ecosystem.
The only thing that needs cut down is one time use plastic. Going back to wax paper, and glass would be healthy but people are so afraid of germs they can't stand the idea of reusable items.
22:46 Process of building soil
Thật tuyệt vời quá!cảm ơn bà !
great Elaine!
Very useful thank you
Very nice, thank you!
Glad you like it!
5:30. Start
Is there a publicly available resource that has the desired bacterial and fungal ratios for different crops?
I’m wondering if with these certifications I would be able to support a family. I have a B.S. in Biology and have recently decided to turn down my Med School acceptance. This really interests me.
Hi Danny, check out our webinars about Careers in Soil Regeneration: ua-cam.com/video/CqkNHm9o4CM/v-deo.html, we have quite a few more on our YT channel as well as our website: www.soilfoodweb.com/resources/testimonials-videos/?vID=470279480%3Fh%3D103139eeb8
@Phil Jermakian In part yes, although I don't think its a bioweapon haha. I believe that in the face of political pressure, instead of being scientifically minded adults, many physicians chose the path of blind allegiance to the federal government and those informing them.
Hi danny, wondering if you pursued this?
I really wish for a scholarship to sponsor me on the complete soil food web foundation courses. It’s hard to get by being in a 3rd world country.
Email at info@soilfoodweb.com!
Can urea fertilizers phosphorus be applied properly too soil and benefit worms not hurt them what should do if want go more slow worm composting than bacterial compost and would it be worth it.
Hello, I was just wondering how to deal with Southern Blight, and how you might identify or distinguish it under microscope. It would also be ideal to know that there were some combative biology that could be employed for its control.
Given my experience with Southern blight infecting low sprawling mat forming plants (i.e. Creeping Jenny) and spreading wide and rapidly through them, I would be reluctant to use the Dicondra personally.
Can I use last year's chicken manure for the 3rd layer of composting ??? TYIA
So on the graph comparing conventional to Keyline with compost tea the conclusions drawn by Dr. Elaine mention exclusively biology as causal factor for the increase in yield and water retention. Wouldn't the actual keyline rips have had significant influence in the results of the trial?
Thank you for the great question! Please contact us at info@soilfoodweb.com so a member of our Science Team can get back to you.
I've been growing-out endo-myco plugs using winter kill cover crops that I transplant into new garden areas come spring. I plant the seedlings or seeds direclty next to the plugs.
Most myco products are DOA due to heat sensitivity during transport & storage.
I also found making gallons of compost tea exhausting and a questionable process due to heat death of fungi. I much prefer using worm & compost extracts gentliy bubbled in my cool basement to kick start seedlings & seed germination.
Do you know of any study that compares yeilds between myco plugs & compost teas?
Making endo-myco plugs was a thing some years ago using various methods. It's rarely discussed now. I'm assuming it's because of the time factor in grow out.
Order in winter?
Love all the information! What is the perennial cover crop that was in between the healthy okra??
Hi I'm from Pakistan I just shifted my citrus orchard to raise beds and no till method .I have stoped using fertilizer and pesticides and I'm using mulch to cover land but this year pest have destroyed my citrus and I have stoped fertilizer s too and the plants seem weak do I need to supply organic tea and organic fertilizer .kindly guide me I love my citrus orchard
You should never stop cold turkey. Foliar spray the plants with some urea and micronutrients.
I need too know can slow composting and growing worms be faster better than bacterial dominated compost.
Hi, I live in southern Mexico, can I use trailing succulents as ground covers around fruit trees?
We recommend this localized database to our students when they are looking for low lying cover plants: pfaf.org/user/cmspage.aspx?pageid=81 W
THANK YOU, FOR ALL OF THIS AMAZING INFORMATION!!! WHAT IS THE BEST METHOD(S) TO FEEDING, AND INCREASING THE QUANTITY, AND DIVERSITY OD FUNGAL SPECIES IN THE SOIL PROFILE?! (..BY ADDING OLD WOOD CHIPS & TREE BARK"... OR, MAYBE SHREDDED PAPER & CARDBOARD?)...
Southern utah hoping to grow family veg garden
Can anyone tell me if Purslane would be a good cover plant? I get some that comes up every year.
yes!!!...i have a friend who has it in his garden and he asked me the same question .....Often considered invasive, this plant will grow in some of the worst conditions. Purslane does not need fertilizer to survive. Purslane covers the soil to create a living mulch which helps to protect soil and retain moisture. They like slightly acidic soil pH of 5.5 to 7. It is one of the few plants that are rich in omega-3 fatty acids.....so it is certainly a fungal food.
I wouldn't count on Purslane as a cover crop. It's overall production is small, but it's value is poorly underestimated because it's such a valuable plant. So don't pull it out, but encourage it.
@@Nightowl5454 not sure why you would say its production is small....its considered invasive .......It grows rapidly on its own, producing flowers for about three weeks. Purslane spreads rapidly when it is allowed to go to seed. Plants that are uprooted but not removed from the site may begin growing again. Plants need to be pulled by hand to keep them from spreading. Common purslane is a prolific seeder. A single plant may produce 240,000 seeds, which may germinate even after 5 to 40 years. Because of its ability to produce large numbers of seeds, common purslane can rapidly colonize any warm, moist site. A few scattered plants in the first year can become an almost solid carpet of purslane the following year. Its ability to reroot after cultivation or hoeing frequently enables it to survive these cultural control practices. Common purslane is low in stature and forms dense mats. These vegetative mats utilize available moisture and nutrients and screen out light to the soil surface, preventing emergence of other seedlings. Common purslane is unsightly, reducing the esthetic value of turf and ornamental plantings. Common purslane is edible, with a sweet, yet acidlike flavor. An excellent crunchy salad plant, it is said to blend well with hotter-flavored salad herbs. It has been cultivated in India and the Middle East and has been popular in Europe since the Middle Ages. In the United States, common purslane is a minor crop because of its use in ethnic cooking and its reputed health benefits of bioprotective nutrients (antioxidants, vitamins, and amino acids).It was first identified in the United States in 1672 in Massachusetts
@@jeremyschissler337 it's simple math, conpare the amount of biomass production of purslane compared to any other cover crop and you'll quickly realize purslane falls far short. The only advantages of purslane is resilience and nutritional value, so it isn't something I'd focus on. Clovers, dandelions are both more productive than purslane, but if purslane does decide to come up then allow it too.
@@Nightowl5454 that only makes sense if you want more cellulose or lignin biomass in particular....clover and dandelions are low in lignin and not as good of fungal food and will not help you improve fungal dominance like purslane ....nore do they produce reductive compounds that prevent oxidation like it does .....biomass is not the metric to use when selecting a cover crop unless the goal is to produce more biomass. ...i understand the desire to produce biomass but biomass can be quantified in many ways ....like fungal biomass or bacterial .....lignin or cellulose ....so the volume of biomass has very little to do with the actual decision unless that is the goal ............biomass isn't a trustworthy metric to reveal photosynthetic efficiency or exudation....also plants that produce a lot of biomass require more nutrients to be cycled which could cause issues in gardens with poor fertility ...where purslane on the other hand needs very little ionic nutrition...and since it doesn't require much carbon for cellulose production it can put that into the ground as an exudate and focus on lipid production
a cow fed corn will produce more biomass than one fed grass....but which is a healthier cow?........bigger is not better
Is there any problem with Organic fertilizers? Or is it only in-organic that should be avoided?
How to increase your fungi in the soil thanks
I have a food forest that includes bushes and trees (pears, plums, cherry, apple, blueberries, currents, gooseberries, service berries, etc.). Fungi will gradually increase in dominance itself just because you're growing trees and bushes there, but I speed it up by adding a minimum of 4" of arborist woodchips to start. After that keep adding an inch or two each year as it decays. To get more fungi, you need to give them food. Not only will this feed fungi, but the woodchips will protect the surface of the soil from UV, stabilize soil temperature, keep moisture in, and still allow ample air exchange for oxygen due to its coarseness.
Basically if you feed them, they will come :)
Thank you so much ! What shud I feed them with ? Sugar and organic matter ?
@@nikolapopov7038 The woodchips are all the food fungi needs. Never use sugar for fungi. Fungi eat lignin and cellulose found in woodchips.
@@GerryMantha thank you so much great information!!!! Is there any book to reed about it thanks
@@nikolapopov7038
I recommend Linda Chalker-Scott's book
"How Plants Work: The Science Behind the Amazing Things Plants Do (Science for Gardeners)". It concentrates more on perennial fungi-dominated horticulture rather than bacterial dominated annual vegetable gardening.
I have a mystery. I have a small orchard with apple, pear, cherry, peach and plum. All the trees produce, except the plum. They are 4 years old, itialian, damson and seed grown (these are 6 years old). NOne of the plum even flower. I have tried compost, wood mulch, organic fert, seaweed folar feed and grass clipping mulch. The trees are sprinkled around the orchard, but within 50 feet of each other. I think it is a soil issue, but can't figure it out. Wet PNW zone 8 Any ideas??
Thank you for the great question! Please contact us at info@soilfoodweb.com so a member of our Science Team can get back to you.
Do you guys put out books?
Elaine co-authored the Soil Biology Primer, you can access it for free here: www.nrcs.usda.gov/wps/portal/nrcs/detailfull/national/soils/health/?cid=nrcs142p2_053860, or purchase it for all the photos. Email us at info@soilfoodweb.com if you are interested in getting Dr. Elaine's recommended reading list of books.
9:39 bacteria/fungi ratio
Are any benefits of grass and weed around my fruit trees ? Or should I just shovel them out and disturb the soil?
@GerardoDelValle Feel free to reach out to us with your question: info@soilfoodweb.com
I can’t be the only one that cracked up at Pussytoes 😂
When Dr Ingham said treating seeds with compost extract - is that just soaking for two hours in tea?
Hi Carmelo - compost extract is different than compost tea. We soak seeds in compost extract, which is an aerated water-extraction of compost. Compost tea is an aerated water-extraction of compost that has been fed and brewed.
@@soilfoodwebschool Oohhhh, right. Just like worm extract. You just wrap it up and slap it around in the water. I know the worm extracts have plant hormones in them right? Bag it, slap it, aerate it = extraction vs bag it, aerate it for 24 hours is the tea. Thank you for clarifying that
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Really I had wanted to witness the live programme at soil food web school but I have internet and Android as well as computer problem. I am from Sierra Leone west Africa came from a poor background and still struggling in order for me to be educated.
Hi Mohamed, have you tried watching the videos at a lower resolution, it may help! To do so, go to the settings gear in the lower right hand corner of the UA-cam player, then lower the quality down until the video will play on your device. The resolution may not be great, but you should be able to hear the audio fairly well.
I need a Doctor, Dr Eileen Ingram, can you make a house call? I think if you want a challenge and would like to show the world that your work will work even in the worst conditions you should have a look at my property. I'm going to do it but would love to have you oversee the project. If I'm successful everyone in the world will jump on board.
@Richard Bell Sr You can send Dr. Elaine details of your project to info@soilfoodweb.com Also qualified Soil Consultants are ready to advise you now: www.soilfoodweb.com/consultants/
@@soilfoodwebschool thank you very much!
I challenge all of you to fix my soil, I will do the work, I just need you to lead the way, Dr Eileen Ingram says all dirt has all the nutrients required to grow. Okay, I'm certainly open to that. First let me describe my dirt, hahaha. Rock hard when dry, muddy mush when wet, clay, eroded in patches, I have native grass in pasture and around water ways like my pond and creek, weeds don't grow in my grass but my garden and greenhouse has enormous amount of weeds. From watching several of her videos it seems like I need to get organic matter into my dirt to loosen it up, would this be my first step? I'm thinking I need to compost the organic matter first to avoid anaerobic conditions? The biggest question is this, I know tilling is horrible for microbes but how do I get organic matter into the soil if I don't till it in? Should I till it in and then go no till from there? I can add compost on top but it really isn't going to correct the conditions of the dirt or will it? Everything I have is invested in my homestead so I have to make this work. I have almost 300 animals who are also dependent on me making this happen. Eileen is asking if I have several species of good guys or bad guys. I don't know who the good guys are or who the bad guys are. I want to apply Dr Eileen Ingram's methods, I need help, is there scholarship to her courses? Does she have online classes or do you have to tend her classes in person? Where do I get microrizal fungi? So many questions!
@Richard Bell Sr Please feel free to send us your questions to info@soilfoodweb.com To learn more about our course offerings, please let us know about your goals and interests so that we can help you find the course(s) that will work best for you.
Grow crops like clover, rye, rape and daikon radish. Mulch them with leaves and grass clippings for one year at least then now down and til under.
Test the consistency and pH/minerals of the soil after that first tilling. That may be all you need to do. You want to have a good workable soil that isn't claylike. If it's still a clay mess do the same thing another year. Test again.
By the second year you should have enough biomass worked in that you can go no till if you desire.
Myocorrhizal fungi can be purchased in small amounts and added to the soil after the tilling and planting to restore them faster. You can also make leaf mould tea and water the area.
@@sometimessnarky1642 thank you. Appreciate the advice
@@soilfoodwebschool thank you!
Hey man hows it going? Did you apply anything that they recommended? What State are you in?
My question can worms be a larger store of nitrogen than urea
I think worm compost is a good way to help improve our soil.
But all worm compost is not the same.
Has someone set up a standard way to rate the effectiveness of worm compost?
@Harold Brown Thank you for your question. Please feel free to send your question/s to info@soilfoodweb.com and our science team can address these.
Entanglement great topic
Spooky action at a distance
Makes sense you need to understand the up and down spin and also entanglement
Let it grow
Test with more radiation
Let the wave aka particle show you the way
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I no till with cover crops...have the soil scientists figured out that 5 or 6 weeks
with no rain you dont see much soil improvement?
Agreed. I've had 1/2 inch in 2 months. Soil is now hydrophobic 🤷♀️
Why not go towards a drip irrigation solution? Save tons using newer drip watering systems. The numbers are wild, like 50-70% reduction
@@B01 I've done that...3 rolls for 500 dollars,looks like it might be the only way though
@@jimmydykes7961 they also make garden covers, perforated ones that allow for much better soil water retention. I've seen em fairly often in areas with low average anual rainfall
@@FF420Raw that's not feasible on 10 acres of sweetcorn...appreciate it though
Dump ALL incumbents.
I just transplanted (mid-May) 20 six foot tall dormant plum trees, all from "rich" soil to rich soil. I did not see even one earthworm, grub, nothing. It is the same since I moved to this very small town in the middle of no-where 4 years ago. It's climate is similar to central Appalachia. Last summer we had a few grasshoppers about 1/4 the size of when I was kid 50 years ago. Zero moths flying around the outside lights, etc., etc. We don't even have mosquitos This is not an agricultural area. Has lawn chemicals done this??? The only urban area is 200 miles away.
What keen observations you've made! Where are you living exactly?
To jump start a new gardening plot, could I just go collect leaf mold from some old growth trees in my area and make a tea to start the fungi balancing?
@JA M Feel free to reach out to us with your questions so our science team can address them. And to learn more about our course offerings, please let us know about your goals and interests so that we can help you find the course(s) that will work best for you. Send to info@soilfoodweb.com
Since they didn't answer your question I will.
Yes. If you can find a forest go to the biggest tree you can see and dig the top layers of leaves away. Find the rich brown leaf mould and collect a few handfuls. Put those in a non metal container and add filtered or rain water. Let it sit for a few days and then use it to water your garden. Just add more mould and water as you use it.
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Now even the Android techo mobile phone I am using I cannot see the writing clearly the phone is too slow due to it memory.
Dr. Elaine are you familiar with “Dr” Sebi?
@Khalil Collins Please feel free to contact us at info@soilfoodweb.com
There's nothing wrong with cover crops, just learn how to save seed and grow your own. The cover plants she talks about, for the most part, can not be grazed. This makes sense coming from a vegetarian like Elaine, but doesn't work for most of us. The grazing aspect, if properly managed, accelerates soil improvement.
It's a shame that each wannabe guru has his/her own set of things they preach and another set they dismiss, conflicting with the other wannabe gurus. It puts us in the position of having to discern what info to keep and what to toss from each of them. Elaine is great, but she isn't infallible, and she isn't correct about everything.
Cover crops are great I agree. I'm not sure why she thinks they are a waste of money...
Sexy version of Stephen Hawkins, loving it!
Come on. Taxpayers pay for the grants for your research. Now you want to charge top pay for the results 😂😮. I hope I’m wrong.
@Josue Osorio Thank you for your comment. We are a for profit school with a mission to empower people to regenerate their soils. We do not receive funding from any government or non-governmental sources. Rather, we collaborate with, and support, other organizations. One example is Tiyeni.org for whom we helped raise over $100k in 2021. Tiyeni have trained over 17,000 farmers in Malawi, Africa, to use regenerative practices, thereby increasing their yields by an average of 146% in year 1. This is life-changing for many of these farmers.
The school has also invested in research projects. And as our knowledge advances, we are constantly updating our course content. We are working towards broadening the educational content provided by the school, to include lots of other, useful information for farmers, ranchers and growers, designed to help them transition fully to regenerative agriculture in whatever setting they may be.
I hope this insight into what the Soil Food Web School is about will go some way towards alleviating your concerns. Please feel free to reach out to our team with any questions here: info@soilfoodweb.com
@@soilfoodwebschool to get to where you are we still paid for all your grants throughout your career
@conocimientoexpandido
I am sure you can find all the research papers involved with this.
The school has overhead, equipment, employees to pay for.
Just like college courses. You have access to all the info they can provide for free.... yet people still go and pay for the hands on instruction.
Be my wife