Quick and to the point, great video! I just bought a 1997 SW2 (75k miles in 2021!) as a daily driver and for the childhood nostalgia. the dealership detailed the engine bay and hid this problem (among others unfortunately) and within a week I thought I was in deep doo doo bro. But this video clearly shows I can avoid shop fees, burn an afternoons work, 24 hours to let it sit, then I should be g2g. Hopefully I order the right gaskets the first time and don't get stranded. Wish me luck.
Man I really appreciate your posting this. I had the same problem with oil leaking into the spark plug. If you look when you remove the cover for the spark plugs. You will probably see a spot on the gasket where the machine messed the gasket up allowing oil to leak in. My spark plug was wetter than that. Got the new gaskets on the cover and will reinstall later today. Also changing spark plug and spark plug wires. Thanks again for this great video.
Nice job in both showing and describing your procedure. There's a guy on a saturn forum that I belong to that is having an issue with the Felpro spark plug gasket not fitting for him. I sent him the link to your video. For future reference, maybe you can show the actual part numbers that work for you?
Thank you for the informative film, I have a question. I removed the cover of the engine cylinder block, soaked it in the degreaser, cleaned well, but not sure, before putting it back, should I lubricate it inside or just put like it is (you know it was all oily inside before). If I need to lubricate, should I use machine oil for that particular car, or I can lubricate with something like WD-40 or another penetrating oil?
No need to lubricate the overhead cams. When the engine runs again it will immediately be lubricated with oil. Same reason why after an oil change you don't need to do anything special to re lube everything
@@bluesxt No, I meant not cams, but valve cover lid. Actually I sprayed already with WD-40 and wipe it out, so it is very thin layer there, but I worry that some chemicals from that lubrication will go somewhere in the engine. Hopefully that thin layer of WD-40 won't hurt anything inside. If to leave it unlubricated, some yellow-orange spots appear, it might develop rust, and I'm not sure if the car will run immediately (I do many things on it, while everything is open). I scraped all the surfaces for the gaskets contact with the razor blade with the handle, everything comes off very easy and fast (I tried other methods before, and it was way slower). So those surfaces on the contact of the gaskets, what was the final liquid you put on? Was it break cleaner. Not sure what to clean it with finally - with the break cleaner or acetone, or not to do anything and leave it with that tiny WD-40 final layer. And what exactly did you put in the corners, is it gasket maker? I was planning to use the gasket maker, but I think you used other term. Thank you very much again for the mentioning to clean the engine itself a bit, I cleaned just those wells surfaces, but will go now over the engine. What towel did you use, I'm afraid if to use just some rugs small particles from them can go inside of the engine. Can I use blue shop paper towels? Your film is very good and detailed and with many interesting techniques. Hopefully you'll be making many more.
Olena Erhardt I used brake cleaner to spray the engine surface down and the inside of the valve cover off. You can use regular rags or the blue shop towels that auto parts stores sell. Where the timing cover meets the head I put a little bit of RTV down to make a better seal. You want to be careful and not let stuff like dirt or towel particles fall into the engine, but you don’t need to be overly careful. No need to stress yourself out about making everything perfectly clean. Just clean the mating surface of the head and the valve cover so there will be no leaks later on
@@bluesxt I see, thank you, that resolves many of my questions, bcs I thought maybe even very thin wrong liquid layer will do some harm to the engine. I'm novice to the car repairs, and some information fm u-tube was controversy. Scotty Kilmer for example, cleaned the engine surface with the rotating wheel. I can imagine how many dust went down during that process. Probably if it is dust, particles are not large, so not that harmful, but to be on the safe side, I'll just clean engine surface with the blue towel sprayed with brake cleaner, as well as chain and other open parts of the engine which I can reach. I have exactly the same valve cover, like in your car. I noticed that 7 bolts on it have caps on the top, and 4 kind of open end. I didn't make picture of them where which goes, thought it is not important, but now when I saw that order in which you tighten those bolts, think maybe it is important. Does it matter where which one goes? From your film I see that all the 3 central bolts are the same, with the caps, others - hard to see. Though maybe those 4 open ends bolts were just substituted for the cap ones by someone who worked on the car before. In other words are all those bolts the same on your valve cover or there are 4 different in total 11?
Olena Erhardt The valve cover bolts are attached to the cover, or atleast they should be. Also, if you’re worried about junk falling inside of your engine, you can do an oil change afterwards just to be extra safe
Too truly fix that problem you have to find the aluminum valve cover from 1991-1995 Saturn SL2/SW2/SC2 and use original cover gasket from those years models I have fixed that problem long time ago when I switched to aluminum valve cover from older Saturns that can be found at salvage yards if you can In addition the internal baffle inside those valve covers needs to be removed to make proper use of those covers on the second generation Saturns as the design of positive ventilation system is a bit different on the first generation of Saturn engines then on the second generation’s plastic covers Plastic covers are junk of a idea and should be removed
Quick and to the point, great video! I just bought a 1997 SW2 (75k miles in 2021!) as a daily driver and for the childhood nostalgia. the dealership detailed the engine bay and hid this problem (among others unfortunately) and within a week I thought I was in deep doo doo bro. But this video clearly shows I can avoid shop fees, burn an afternoons work, 24 hours to let it sit, then I should be g2g. Hopefully I order the right gaskets the first time and don't get stranded. Wish me luck.
Good luck man!
@@bluesxt so far, so good..
Thanks for the video , Can you tell me what the part number for the blue Gasket is ?
I like Fel pro gaskets for all my cars. The blue gasket that worked is a fel pro gasket available from autozone, or any parts store
bluesxt thanks a lot , I will look for , autozone gave me one with wrong or different grommet shape for bolts , so now can not tight enough
Man I really appreciate your posting this. I had the same problem with oil leaking into the spark plug. If you look when you remove the cover for the spark plugs. You will probably see a spot on the gasket where the machine messed the gasket up allowing oil to leak in. My spark plug was wetter than that. Got the new gaskets on the cover and will reinstall later today. Also changing spark plug and spark plug wires. Thanks again for this great video.
Awesome man glad my video could help you out!
Nice job in both showing and describing your procedure. There's a guy on a saturn forum that I belong to that is having an issue with the Felpro spark plug gasket not fitting for him. I sent him the link to your video. For future reference, maybe you can show the actual part numbers that work for you?
Sounds like a smart idea! Yea in this video I even show that I had a problem where the first gasket set I picked up didn't fit properly.
Thank you for the informative film, I have a question. I removed the
cover of the engine cylinder block, soaked it in the degreaser, cleaned
well, but not sure, before putting it back, should I lubricate it inside
or just put like it is (you know it was all oily inside before). If I
need to lubricate, should I use machine oil for that particular car, or I
can lubricate with something like WD-40 or another penetrating oil?
No need to lubricate the overhead cams. When the engine runs again it will immediately be lubricated with oil. Same reason why after an oil change you don't need to do anything special to re lube everything
@@bluesxt No, I meant not cams, but valve cover lid. Actually I sprayed already with WD-40 and wipe it out, so it is very thin layer there, but I worry that some chemicals from that lubrication will go somewhere in the engine. Hopefully that thin layer of WD-40 won't hurt anything inside. If to leave it unlubricated, some yellow-orange spots appear, it might develop rust, and I'm not sure if the car will run immediately (I do many things on it, while everything is open). I scraped all the surfaces for the gaskets contact with the razor blade with the handle, everything comes off very easy and fast (I tried other methods before, and it was way slower). So those surfaces on the contact of the gaskets, what was the final liquid you put on? Was it break cleaner. Not sure what to clean it with finally - with the break cleaner or acetone, or not to do anything and leave it with that tiny WD-40 final layer. And what exactly did you put in the corners, is it gasket maker? I was planning to use the gasket maker, but I think you used other term. Thank you very much again for the mentioning to clean the engine itself a bit, I cleaned just those wells surfaces, but will go now over the engine. What towel did you use, I'm afraid if to use just some rugs small particles from them can go inside of the engine. Can I use blue shop paper towels? Your film is very good and detailed and with many interesting techniques. Hopefully you'll be making many more.
Olena Erhardt I used brake cleaner to spray the engine surface down and the inside of the valve cover off. You can use regular rags or the blue shop towels that auto parts stores sell. Where the timing cover meets the head I put a little bit of RTV down to make a better seal. You want to be careful and not let stuff like dirt or towel particles fall into the engine, but you don’t need to be overly careful. No need to stress yourself out about making everything perfectly clean. Just clean the mating surface of the head and the valve cover so there will be no leaks later on
@@bluesxt I see, thank you, that resolves many of my questions, bcs I thought maybe even very thin wrong liquid layer will do some harm to the engine. I'm novice to the car repairs, and some information fm u-tube was controversy. Scotty Kilmer for example, cleaned the engine surface with the rotating wheel. I can imagine how many dust went down during that process. Probably if it is dust, particles are not large, so not that harmful, but to be on the safe side, I'll just clean engine surface with the blue towel sprayed with brake cleaner, as well as chain and other open parts of the engine which I can reach. I have exactly the same valve cover, like in your car. I noticed that 7 bolts on it have caps on the top, and 4 kind of open end. I didn't make picture of them where which goes, thought it is not important, but now when I saw that order in which you tighten those bolts, think maybe it is important. Does it matter where which one goes? From your film I see that all the 3 central bolts are the same, with the caps, others - hard to see. Though maybe those 4 open ends bolts were just substituted for the cap ones by someone who worked on the car before. In other words are all those bolts the same on your valve cover or there are 4 different in total 11?
Olena Erhardt The valve cover bolts are attached to the cover, or atleast they should be. Also, if you’re worried about junk falling inside of your engine, you can do an oil change afterwards just to be extra safe
Would be nice if maybe he had mentioned what size the bolts were on the valve cover kind of mysterious
@@paulywally1957 they are either 8mm or 10mm
Hows the Saturn holding up? I have the same problem on my #1 cylinder. If this fixes it, I'll give it a shot too! Thanks
Too truly fix that problem you have to find the aluminum valve cover from 1991-1995 Saturn SL2/SW2/SC2 and use original cover gasket from those years models
I have fixed that problem long time ago when I switched to aluminum valve cover from older Saturns that can be found at salvage yards if you can In addition the internal baffle inside those valve covers needs to be removed to make proper use of those covers on the second generation Saturns as the design of positive ventilation system is a bit different on the first generation of Saturn engines then on the second generation’s plastic covers
Plastic covers are junk of a idea and should be removed
@@sergeynemir good point!
subaruwrxfan's theme lol
Hermit527 is that the same music he uses?