When I ventured back to slot cars in 2000, naturally enough I bought a set. Previously both in the mid 1960s and later in the mid 1990s I'd had 1/32 (Scalextric & subsequently SCX) so naturally enough that's where I ventured but this time, but chose Carrera Evolution (analogue) over Scalextric. Whilst the analogue was the same basic tech as 60 years ago, everything else about it from Carrera's track, cars and manufacture of both was light years ahead in performance and quality. A lot more fun with the cars just driving so much better and not deslotting every other lap given attentive driving. Other than NO shoulders included, everything in a basic Evo set to enjoy friendly competition. Whilst it wouldn't suit hardcore slot car afficionados in 2025, the casual mature home player will enjoy it as will kids, although personally as sales indicate I suspect the latter would as much traction on a friendlier budget from 1/43 Go! -pun intended. So I recently bought a Carrera wireless digital set. In a word another level of magnificence in an OOTB ready to play product. No argument, expensive relative to either Evolution or Go!, especially accessorizing track or chipping previous analogue cars, but it brings another level of added complexity & control increasing enjoyment for older players to what is now a fairly old technology of cars restricted to slotted rails. Arguably it bridges a gap between a computer simulation and play in miniature tactile form which still holds a je ne sais quoi appeal, particularly to us grown 'boys' from previous generations.
I remember my older bro getting a Tyco set back in the glory days of early 90's. It was a figure 8 track, coolest shit I had ever seen as a little guy.
When i was a kid back in the mid sixties, i had a set made by Aurora. It was a good set. The only problems I had were the H.O. size cars would burn up the brushes in time. I would buy new cars to continue playing until I went into my local hobby shop and was told that they could sell me replacement brushes. Easy to replace and cheap! The next part to wear out were the small tires. But no replaceable tires to buy.
Super layout. Can I ask what brand & type of white paint (e.g. Rust-oleum enamel white gloss spray can) you used or would recommend to paint the start position grid markers on your Carrera track straights? Did you apply a primer first? Has it proven wear resistant to transit tyre friction?
I didn't paint the start position grid markers, those came with each Carrera set that I purchased. (total of three) I guess they don't come with the sets anymore and Carrera doesn't offer them separately. I have painted some of the strips on the track but I used a air brush with Tamiya paint. But I would think that any plastic compatible paint would work fine. But you might want to test a small section before doing a bunch of painting at one time. Thanks 🙂
@@rickrideout Thanks for your helpful answer. Shortly after typing my question I stumbled across a dealer's Carrera 132 set assembly video and noted one of those prepainted position marker straights included in the set. I came to the same conclusion you have. The video was a few years old. So I went and checked the images of all the current and recent sets on Carrera's DE website. Can confirm that it's discontinued and no longer included. Not available as a separate part either according to the many search descriptions I tried. Reaffirming that I just (Xmas) bought Bull and Horse Digital Wireless set and had two prior Evolution sets from 2000. That part wasn't included in any of them.
@@rickrideout I have several quality airbrushes and so am used to airbrushing Tamiya acrylics and lacquers. I think either would adhere well to the Carrera plastic, especially new track. Tamiya's adhesion to contaminant free surfaces without primer being necessary is legendary. Wear (-ing off) through constant lap traffic & the painted surface's paint's affect on tyre traction would be my only concerns. I'll study the positioning of those grid markers on extant Carrera track images and vids. I'll wager Carrera have placed the parallel lines either just inside or just outside the perimeter of wheelbase/tyre track. I'll mask and test on one new standard straight first. Although a Rust-oleum (enamel) spray can would be safe, do the job and be a harder finish, I suspect an enamel line may also be slippery in the same way painted lines are on real road surfaces vs an lacquer or solvent alcohol Tamiya acrylic. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Ohne Magnete mit Tuning Reifen wird das ganze noch besser ! Mit Magnet Bombern ist es wie zu sehen relativ easy zu fahren ! Also noch jede Menge Ausbau Potential! Wetter kann man auch noch einbauen ( Reifen Wechsel )
We don't run full magnets in our cars. We also don't care for GT cars drifting around the corners. It isn't prototypical to see GT style cars drifting around a corner, unless you modeling drifting. We remove the main magnet which is the rear magnet. This reduces the magnetic downforce by about 90%. Which makes the car harder to drive and but still looks more like the prototypes going around the track without the back end hanging out. Running the one center magnet only adds 1-2 oz of weight. This way we can fine tune each car to weigh the same using our magnetic downforce scale. We also have a tire truer that has been used on all tires. We haven't had much interest in the weather and damage simulator yet, maybe some day. 🙂 Oh, and maybe the reason it looks relatively easy to drive is because we're really good drivers. 🙂🙂
We have the speed setting at 100% but the voltage is set to 12.8 which takes some of the speed away from the cars We're only running the center magnet which is a lot less grip than running with both magnets. If we don't let up and slow down for the corners we will de-slot or spin out also. If you're running no magnets then I bet your cars are super tail happy, (Not realistic for road racing.) if so, then add weight or put the center magnet back in. Cars in the video are all Carrera and we're also running Paul Gage rear tires and SlotInvasion SILKC-R Carrera Guide. Also, on the video there is a More tab just below Views that gives more info. Hope that helps.
@@rickrideout I've still got the magnets in the cars. I tried taking the back magnet out of one of the cars that has Paul Gage tires but it was even worse that way.
@@stacy9497 If you're de-sloting with both magnets in then you must either be trying to go to fast around the corners or you have something wrong with the guide or brushes. You want to fluff up the brushes but not so much that it lifts the guide up out of the slot. Maybe the track is dusty and needs cleaning. But with both magnets in the car it should be on a rail and pretty much fly around the corner, but you still have to lift off the throttle (some) coming into the corners and drive the car. You might also try the Slotinvasion guides, they will help some.
This is absolutely ridiculous, grown men playing with toys. On a side note, I'm 52 and have a 12' x 8' Carrera set up with Carrera, Slot It, NSR, Revo and Sideways cars. I started about two months ago and have $4k-ins into it. PS, Don't tell my wife! LOL
I'm using the Smartrace app on an Apple iPad. www.smartrace.de/en/ You can connect to the TV through the iPad's Screen Mirroring feature. But I use an HDMI adapter on my iPad to connect to the TV. Hope that helps. Thanks 🙂
Nice video. I have been debating on a digital set for my kids and myself. Havent pull trigger yet with a set costing $400. I dont have many friends outside work to come play either so idk yet
I'm using Smartrace on my iPad so there's several ways you can do it. The iPad / iPhone offers Screen Mirroring which will mirror your screen to your TV, if you have a Roku / Apple or something like that connected to your TV. (Google Screen Mirroring if you not familiar with it) I did it that way for a while but now I'm just an Apple Lighting Digital AV Adapter on my iPad and connecting directly to the TV with a HDMI cable. This way is more reliable at staying connected and there's never any lag. (Sometimes the TV would be get out of sync with the iPad using Screen Mirroring) Plus it's how I'm recording the race screen video for these UA-cam videos. I have a HDMI splitter and one goes to my laptop where I record the race screen. Screen Mirroring will only send to one device at a time. I spend weeks and many $$ in apps trying to get that to work. The one problem with the AV Adapter on the iPad is that it won't charge the iPad and power the adapter at the same time, so I have to be sure to have a full charge on my iPad before we start racing. Hope that helps. :-)
Carrera Digital 132 Slot Car Smart Race App Ram-Jet Controllers Table size 7'-2" X 16'-4" Center (Front) magnet only. Tires: Paul Gage Professor Motor Power Supply Voltage set @ 12.8 Each lane equal in length @ 63.6 feet. Lane Gate Anti Collision Chip installed in all my lane changers. Track layout and list: imgur.com/a/oeVDMnY
@@rickrideout I had a cool layout as a kid by AFX, i still have all my cars and parts. But I would like to build another layout 50 years later. lol. Will you give me an idea the cost of yours….thank you and great layout
Very cool video! Nice use of SmartRace on each driver's phone to allow for cautions. Do all 4 of you race regularly or do you get together on occasion?
Great track and video. In the video I noticed that a couple of times someone got a penalty for a wreck but usually there was just a caution. Why the difference? Did someone just hit the wrong button? I see you have the KTM X-Bow. That one came with one of my sets. It isn't my fastest but it does look good.
With Smart Race there is an app for the smart phones so you can see and hear your lap times, adjust your brakes see your fuel (etc.) and cause a caution if your car comes off. Each one of us are using our smart phones to throw a caution if their car comes off. Smart Race keeps track of how many times each driver causes a caution. You can set the number of times you have before a penalty and how long the penalty is for. For that race I had it sent that after you cause 3 cautions you get a 2 second penalty on each caution after that. To clear the penalty you have to pull into the pits and sit without getting fuel. If the race ends and you haven't cleared the penalty you'll be disqualified. Rob and Rusty both cause 4 cautions and they were DQed because they didn't clear their penalties. If you look close to the score board during the race you'll see a small circle with a number in it on the left next the position number. Rob and Rusty's will have it mid way through the race. That shows how many times they've caused a caution. So you can keep track of it when you look at the scoreboard. The KTM X-Box isn't my fastest car either but it's competitive enough and very forgiving to drive. I like to run it since I'm also running the cameras, laptop for recording the scoreboard, Smartrace, my car and overseeing that everything is working during the race that I don't really have all of my attention on driving my car. ;-)
@@rickrideout Thanks for the detailed response. I have the Smart Race app but I've mostly just been using it to keep track of my lap times. My track is still on my floor. I'm hoping to make a table for it soon and hopefully get some friends over to do some real racing. I have less than 60 feet of track and hoping to get more. How long is your track? I think it's a really nice size for racing.
It's been awhile since we've all be able to get together. Hopefully now that summers over we'll get back to some racing. I'll post the video's when available. Thank you.
This was great. Is your Marshal just on the ball with the caution or does the track stop when the CU/app stops detecting a car on the track. I also love that if someone pauses the race its an automatic penalty.
Each driver can stop the race from their Smart phones which are running the Smart Race Connect app. If they crash they have to hit the caution button on their phone to stop the race. We do this so that if they can't reach their own car someone else doesn't have to take their eyes off their car and put someone else back on. The Smart Race Connect app also allows you to hear and see you lap times, hear and see your fuel usage and when you need to pit, and you can adjust your brakes from your phone. Plus stop the race.
The guardrails are Policar brand (Policar P020-10 Guardrail). I painted half of them red. They are very soft and forgiving when a car hits them. They clip on to the Carrera track pretty good, but where there's molded on obstacle's under the track I bend down the bottom tab on the guardrail so it will fit on those areas.
@@patrickcotter5629 I purchased this track designing program and have really enjoyed designing many layouts with it. autorennbahnplaner.de/index_eng.htm
@@rickrideout I have limited space no more than 7 feet wide and 12 feet longer which would have to include track borders. Does that program allow you to design a course within specific dimensions.
@@patrickcotter5629 Yes you can set up a grid but it's in metric so you'll have to convert to inches. Here's a video that shows the grid and how the software works. ua-cam.com/video/7-eGbtJNBBw/v-deo.html
Great video! Do the Ram-Jet controllers come with long cables? I prefer wired controllers over wireless but the standard Carrera controller cables are very limiting. I would prefer to be able to spread out around the track as seen in your video.
Center (Front) magnet only. I have found that removing all the magnets causes the cars to drift (or step out) to much. Like the car is driving on ice. The prototypes of this style race car don't have the rear ends hanging out around the corners. But running both magnets gives the car to much grip and there's not much controlling the car around the corner. It sticks to the corner until it flies off you can't control the slide. So I found that one center magnet works pretty good. I place a shim under the magnet to decrease the grip on some of the faster cars that still have to much grip. But I only run the center magnet. I want the car to have some grip without having to add weight to the car. Seems silly to remove all the magnets and then add weight to the car to get it to grip. You'll see the cars step out in the corners on the video and we have to control it. So it's a decision we all have to make. Run all magnets and the car sticks like glue around the corners and is easy to drive, Remove all the magnets then drift around the corners which is unrealistic for this style car. Remove all the magnets then add weight. Or remove one of the magnets and shim until you get a car that has some grip but still requires throttle control to get around the corners without looking like it's driving on ice.
I used 1x2 lumber and made risers to support the track. Risers are in 1/2 inch increments. (2 Inch, 2-1/2, 3, 3-1/2, 4, 4-1/2 etc.) The risers also have a 2 degree angle to match the slope of the track. Here's a link to some photos of a 3 inch riser. imgur.com/a/wCRU5P1
We do not have call button at each station. We're using our smart phones with the Smart Race app to stop the race. That way smart race can keep up with how many times each driver causes a caution and give penalties if you cause to many. I'm not sure how to go about wiring in call/stop buttons at each station.
In the app you have shown on all the parts needed to build this track did you start with the base Carrera 132 digital track and build off of it or did you individually piece this whole track together? I’m thinking about building this track but wondering what’s the best way to do it. Thanks
If you need cars and the basic Carrera controllers then it's a bit cheaper to start with any digital set that Carrara offers. That way you'll have everything to get started. Like cars, Control Unit, Power supply, controllers plus some track and one lane changer. Then order all the other pieces that you need to complete the track you want. If you know your not going to use the basic controllers, power supply and you already have some cars then just purchase the control unit and all pieces separately. I started with a basic 2 car Carrera Digital set and then added everything else separately. But over time I replaced all the controllers, power supply and don't even run the cars that came with the set any more, so if I'd known what I was going to end up with in the end it would have been a little cheaper just to get it all separately. You'll have to do the math to see what ends up being the best deal for you. :-)
We experiment with different rules each time we race. So far we haven't allowed pitting during a caution. The rules are something you have to play with and see what works best for you or adds more fun to the racing. As time goes on I'm sure we'll test the idea of beginning able to pit during a caution just to see how that changes things. But for now it's not allowed.
We're not professional or do this full time, so we do crash more often than we should. We just get together and try to have some good fun competitive racing. Having a rule that one crash and you're out of the race would take a lot of the fun out of it, and the racing wouldn't be near as good because no one would want to take any chances and it would become boring. Basically just cruise around the track hoping everyone else will come off. Besides, didn't you ever see Dale Earnhardt flip down Daytona's backstretch in the 1997 Daytona 500. He gets back in the wrecked car and finishes the race? :-)
@@rickrideout That's true, but the constant stopping the whole race would get to me after a while. The thing about crashing is, and I saw this in r/c racing, there are some who just drive like idiots knowing someone will be along to flip them back onto the track. I watched one where they finally DQ'd one driver because they couldn't make it around the track without flipping 5 times. They finally had enough. The thing about boring, that might happen, but if you want to "win" you'd have to get better and to get better, you take chances and learn by your mistakes.
The Smartrace connect app that each driver uses on their phones can be set to hand out penalties for throwing a caution. I can set the penalty time as long as I want. So I can use that if I need too, I used that before I did the caution buttons. But I feel lucky that I have guys what want to come over and race with me and I wish we were good enough that we never crash but most my group doesn't have their own tracks to practice on so they only get to practice when they're here. I have to keep that in mind and not make it so stressful to race here that they don't want to come back. 🙂
@@rickrideout yeah I was thinking about practicing, and "home field advantage" haha I didn't mean this as an insult to you, you run your track the way you like, I'm just some knob on the internet. But just saying, I'd get frustrated having to stop every lap or two cuz bruno pegs the throttle and flies off every turn lol.
Yes, I have an advantage, I set up all the cars for the exchange championship race and it's my track to practice on. I keep that in mind but these guys still beat me. 🙂 If I felt someone was repeatably crashing on purpose I'd not be happy about it, but we're all friends and doing the best we can. 🙂
We only use one magnet in the center of the car. This way the car will still slide and it requires throttle control to get the car around the corner. We feel that a road racing car shouldn't look like it's drifting around all the corners. For a road racing car to be drifting around all the corners looks a bit more childish to us.
We have removed the main magnet that produces the most traction. We're running 1.5 -2.0 oz of magnetic grip. Without any magnets the cars look like they're sprint car running on dirt and that would be totally wrong for this style of car.
Amazing the progress of these slots since the late 60's and early 70's. Even the lap counters and metering out the time to stop and re set the car.
When I ventured back to slot cars in 2000, naturally enough I bought a set. Previously both in the mid 1960s and later in the mid 1990s I'd had 1/32 (Scalextric & subsequently SCX) so naturally enough that's where I ventured but this time, but chose Carrera Evolution (analogue) over Scalextric.
Whilst the analogue was the same basic tech as 60 years ago, everything else about it from Carrera's track, cars and manufacture of both was light years ahead in performance and quality. A lot more fun with the cars just driving so much better and not deslotting every other lap given attentive driving. Other than NO shoulders included, everything in a basic Evo set to enjoy friendly competition. Whilst it wouldn't suit hardcore slot car afficionados in 2025, the casual mature home player will enjoy it as will kids, although personally as sales indicate I suspect the latter would as much traction on a friendlier budget from 1/43 Go! -pun intended.
So I recently bought a Carrera wireless digital set. In a word another level of magnificence in an OOTB ready to play product. No argument, expensive relative to either Evolution or Go!, especially accessorizing track or chipping previous analogue cars, but it brings another level of added complexity & control increasing enjoyment for older players to what is now a fairly old technology of cars restricted to slotted rails. Arguably it bridges a gap between a computer simulation and play in miniature tactile form which still holds a je ne sais quoi appeal, particularly to us grown 'boys' from previous generations.
Much better than robbing ,stealing,talking negative about someone or causing any kind of trouble
used to love my HO set.Aurora AFX!!!
Yeah, it helps keep you out of trouble. 🙂
@@gordyg1 Same here.
That comes after racing.
I remember my older bro getting a Tyco set back in the glory days of early 90's. It was a figure 8 track, coolest shit I had ever seen as a little guy.
Yep, Tyco was a big brand back then. But for us the glory days were in the 70's. 🙂
A surprisingly relaxing and delightful video to watch, especially around the holidays.
Thank you very much, Great to hear. 🙂
I just set up my new layout, thanks for giving my some tips on track design.
Awesome track and the racing was very fun to watch!
Thank you. 🙂
since building models over 30 years, i am with your obsession guys 😁👍
When i was a kid back in the mid sixties, i had a set made by Aurora. It was a good set. The only problems I had were the H.O. size cars would burn up the brushes in time. I would buy new cars to continue playing until I went into my local hobby shop and was told that they could sell me replacement brushes. Easy to replace and cheap! The next part to wear out were the small tires. But no replaceable tires to buy.
Nice track set up. Looks like a good time
TCR back in the day 😊
I had Total Control Racing back in the day. (70's) This is better. 🙂
Awesome Track! Looks a little slower than AFX but I like the data board and the caution alerts!
Super layout. Can I ask what brand & type of white paint (e.g. Rust-oleum enamel white gloss spray can) you used or would recommend to paint the start position grid markers on your Carrera track straights? Did you apply a primer first? Has it proven wear resistant to transit tyre friction?
I didn't paint the start position grid markers, those came with each Carrera set that I purchased. (total of three) I guess they don't come with the sets anymore and Carrera doesn't offer them separately. I have painted some of the strips on the track but I used a air brush with Tamiya paint. But I would think that any plastic compatible paint would work fine. But you might want to test a small section before doing a bunch of painting at one time. Thanks 🙂
@@rickrideout Thanks for your helpful answer.
Shortly after typing my question I stumbled across a dealer's Carrera 132 set assembly video and noted one of those prepainted position marker straights included in the set. I came to the same conclusion you have. The video was a few years old.
So I went and checked the images of all the current and recent sets on Carrera's DE website. Can confirm that it's discontinued and no longer included. Not available as a separate part either according to the many search descriptions I tried. Reaffirming that I just (Xmas) bought Bull and Horse Digital Wireless set and had two prior Evolution sets from 2000. That part wasn't included in any of them.
@@rickrideout I have several quality airbrushes and so am used to airbrushing Tamiya acrylics and lacquers. I think either would adhere well to the Carrera plastic, especially new track. Tamiya's adhesion to contaminant free surfaces without primer being necessary is legendary. Wear (-ing off) through constant lap traffic & the painted surface's paint's affect on tyre traction would be my only concerns.
I'll study the positioning of those grid markers on extant Carrera track images and vids. I'll wager Carrera have placed the parallel lines either just inside or just outside the perimeter of wheelbase/tyre track. I'll mask and test on one new standard straight first.
Although a Rust-oleum (enamel) spray can would be safe, do the job and be a harder finish, I suspect an enamel line may also be slippery in the same way painted lines are on real road surfaces vs an lacquer or solvent alcohol Tamiya acrylic.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Very cool. Lots of helpful info here. Im getting ready to build a 16 x 6 so Im hoping to achieve something close.
This layout must be close to 8x32. Do you have room to go to 8x24?
@@keithkruse2595 7'2"x16'4" in the stats above
Great layout and intresting feature! Subbed your channel!!!
Thank you!
good racing.. good times
Ohne Magnete mit Tuning Reifen wird das ganze noch besser ! Mit Magnet Bombern ist es wie zu sehen relativ easy zu fahren !
Also noch jede Menge Ausbau Potential! Wetter kann man auch noch einbauen ( Reifen Wechsel )
We don't run full magnets in our cars. We also don't care for GT cars drifting around the corners. It isn't prototypical to see GT style cars drifting around a corner, unless you modeling drifting. We remove the main magnet which is the rear magnet. This reduces the magnetic downforce by about 90%. Which makes the car harder to drive and but still looks more like the prototypes going around the track without the back end hanging out. Running the one center magnet only adds 1-2 oz of weight. This way we can fine tune each car to weigh the same using our magnetic downforce scale. We also have a tire truer that has been used on all tires. We haven't had much interest in the weather and damage simulator yet, maybe some day. 🙂 Oh, and maybe the reason it looks relatively easy to drive is because we're really good drivers. 🙂🙂
Funny race to watch.
What speed do you have the track set on? Even when I set my speed at 57% using the Smart Race app it's way too easy to de-slot on the inside curves.
We have the speed setting at 100% but the voltage is set to 12.8 which takes some of the speed away from the cars We're only running the center magnet which is a lot less grip than running with both magnets. If we don't let up and slow down for the corners we will de-slot or spin out also. If you're running no magnets then I bet your cars are super tail happy, (Not realistic for road racing.) if so, then add weight or put the center magnet back in. Cars in the video are all Carrera and we're also running Paul Gage rear tires and SlotInvasion SILKC-R Carrera Guide. Also, on the video there is a More tab just below Views that gives more info. Hope that helps.
@@rickrideout I've still got the magnets in the cars. I tried taking the back magnet out of one of the cars that has Paul Gage tires but it was even worse that way.
@@stacy9497 If you're de-sloting with both magnets in then you must either be trying to go to fast around the corners or you have something wrong with the guide or brushes. You want to fluff up the brushes but not so much that it lifts the guide up out of the slot. Maybe the track is dusty and needs cleaning. But with both magnets in the car it should be on a rail and pretty much fly around the corner, but you still have to lift off the throttle (some) coming into the corners and drive the car. You might also try the Slotinvasion guides, they will help some.
R VS R VS R VS R ARE YOU READY!! 🤣
I also think it's great. Could you send me the map of the route and the list of track sections? Thanks.
Here you go. imgur.com/a/oeVDMnY
This is absolutely ridiculous, grown men playing with toys. On a side note, I'm 52 and have a 12' x 8' Carrera set up with Carrera, Slot It, NSR, Revo and Sideways cars. I started about two months ago and have $4k-ins into it. PS, Don't tell my wife! LOL
Yep, that's how it starts. 🙂 Thanks
Nice evening, just missing some beer 🍺
Yes and bongs
Looks great, can you tell me what software is used on your display and what the interface is. Thanks
I'm using the Smartrace app on an Apple iPad. www.smartrace.de/en/ You can connect to the TV through the iPad's Screen Mirroring feature. But I use an HDMI adapter on my iPad to connect to the TV. Hope that helps. Thanks 🙂
Nice video.
I have been debating on a digital set for my kids and myself. Havent pull trigger yet with a set costing $400. I dont have many friends outside work to come play either so idk yet
you can set up multiple ghost/pace cars. race all by your lonesome.
What are you using to cast the app to your TV?
I'm using Smartrace on my iPad so there's several ways you can do it. The iPad / iPhone offers Screen Mirroring which will mirror your screen to your TV, if you have a Roku / Apple or something like that connected to your TV. (Google Screen Mirroring if you not familiar with it) I did it that way for a while but now I'm just an Apple Lighting Digital AV Adapter on my iPad and connecting directly to the TV with a HDMI cable. This way is more reliable at staying connected and there's never any lag. (Sometimes the TV would be get out of sync with the iPad using Screen Mirroring) Plus it's how I'm recording the race screen video for these UA-cam videos. I have a HDMI splitter and one goes to my laptop where I record the race screen. Screen Mirroring will only send to one device at a time. I spend weeks and many $$ in apps trying to get that to work. The one problem with the AV Adapter on the iPad is that it won't charge the iPad and power the adapter at the same time, so I have to be sure to have a full charge on my iPad before we start racing. Hope that helps. :-)
and you are expected to pass how exactly?
ua-cam.com/video/lbqXPwxruBo/v-deo.htmlsi=b8ksb0msyAajy_jM
There are crossovers that you hit button on control before and switch lanes to pass another car
I really like your layout. Do you happen to have a list of all the turn radius? Also, what's the overall size of your board? Thanks
Above you'll see a " ...more " Click on that for more information about my layout. I think you'll find the info you're looking for there. Thank you.
hello what is the dimensions of the table , how kilometers thanks
Table size 7'-2" X 16'-4"
Where can I find the anti collision chip?
Great setup!
www.digitalracingsolutions.com/lanegate.html There are several to chose from. Be sure to get the one that's for your lane change. Thanks!.
What’s the size of this table
Carrera Digital 132 Slot Car
Smart Race App
Ram-Jet Controllers
Table size 7'-2" X 16'-4"
Center (Front) magnet only.
Tires: Paul Gage
Professor Motor Power Supply
Voltage set @ 12.8
Each lane equal in length @ 63.6 feet.
Lane Gate Anti Collision Chip installed in all my lane changers.
Track layout and list: imgur.com/a/oeVDMnY
@@rickrideout I had a cool layout as a kid by AFX, i still have all my cars and parts. But I would like to build another layout 50 years later. lol. Will you give me an idea the cost of yours….thank you and great layout
Hi, How big is that table? I am about to plan a track and build a table in my basement.
Table size 7'-2" X 16'-4"
Nice race great when get time to get together have some fun.
Great track hey Wildman?
Very cool video! Nice use of SmartRace on each driver's phone to allow for cautions. Do all 4 of you race regularly or do you get together on occasion?
We are all related and we only race when we can all get together. So just a few times a year. Thanks for the nice comments.
Great track and video. In the video I noticed that a couple of times someone got a penalty for a wreck but usually there was just a caution. Why the difference? Did someone just hit the wrong button?
I see you have the KTM X-Bow. That one came with one of my sets. It isn't my fastest but it does look good.
With Smart Race there is an app for the smart phones so you can see and hear your lap times, adjust your brakes see your fuel (etc.) and cause a caution if your car comes off. Each one of us are using our smart phones to throw a caution if their car comes off. Smart Race keeps track of how many times each driver causes a caution. You can set the number of times you have before a penalty and how long the penalty is for. For that race I had it sent that after you cause 3 cautions you get a 2 second penalty on each caution after that. To clear the penalty you have to pull into the pits and sit without getting fuel. If the race ends and you haven't cleared the penalty you'll be disqualified. Rob and Rusty both cause 4 cautions and they were DQed because they didn't clear their penalties. If you look close to the score board during the race you'll see a small circle with a number in it on the left next the position number. Rob and Rusty's will have it mid way through the race. That shows how many times they've caused a caution. So you can keep track of it when you look at the scoreboard. The KTM X-Box isn't my fastest car either but it's competitive enough and very forgiving to drive. I like to run it since I'm also running the cameras, laptop for recording the scoreboard, Smartrace, my car and overseeing that everything is working during the race that I don't really have all of my attention on driving my car. ;-)
@@rickrideout Thanks for the detailed response. I have the Smart Race app but I've mostly just been using it to keep track of my lap times. My track is still on my floor. I'm hoping to make a table for it soon and hopefully get some friends over to do some real racing. I have less than 60 feet of track and hoping to get more. How long is your track? I think it's a really nice size for racing.
@@stacy9497 Each lane equal in length @ 63.6 feet. Track info is listed above.
@@rickrideoutThanks a lot. 👍
Great looking track. Are you still racing?
It's been awhile since we've all be able to get together. Hopefully now that summers over we'll get back to some racing. I'll post the video's when available. Thank you.
This is pretty cool is this a new thing or do I need to get out more?
This was great. Is your Marshal just on the ball with the caution or does the track stop when the CU/app stops detecting a car on the track. I also love that if someone pauses the race its an automatic penalty.
Each driver can stop the race from their Smart phones which are running the Smart Race Connect app. If they crash they have to hit the caution button on their phone to stop the race. We do this so that if they can't reach their own car someone else doesn't have to take their eyes off their car and put someone else back on. The Smart Race Connect app also allows you to hear and see you lap times, hear and see your fuel usage and when you need to pit, and you can adjust your brakes from your phone. Plus stop the race.
This exact layout, 6 decent controlers and 6 cars. How much? Somebodey sell it to me!!
Here's the track layout and list: imgur.com/a/oeVDMnY
Wow, you responded. Thanks man, you rock.
I love this layout! What is the footprint? I am trying to decide which track I want to build.
Table size 7'-2" X 16'-4"
@@rickrideout Thank you! I have enough space for that!
@@miken2049 Here's the track layout if you want to build it. imgur.com/a/oeVDMnY
@@rickrideout Wow thank you so much I saved it for future use! Incredible that you let me see that!!
Great layout, great race. Can I ask where you got those guardrails? Are they Carrera?
The guardrails are Policar brand (Policar P020-10 Guardrail). I painted half of them red. They are very soft and forgiving when a car hits them. They clip on to the Carrera track pretty good, but where there's molded on obstacle's under the track I bend down the bottom tab on the guardrail so it will fit on those areas.
@@rickrideout thank you. Will definitely track some of those Down. 😁🏁
What is the dimensions of the table
Table size 7'-2" X 16'-4"
Would you may sharing the track design layout you built?
Track layout and list: imgur.com/a/oeVDMnY
@@rickrideout Thanks. Did you use an online track designer?
@@patrickcotter5629 I purchased this track designing program and have really enjoyed designing many layouts with it. autorennbahnplaner.de/index_eng.htm
@@rickrideout I have limited space no more than 7 feet wide and 12 feet longer which would have to include track borders. Does that program allow you to design a course within specific dimensions.
@@patrickcotter5629 Yes you can set up a grid but it's in metric so you'll have to convert to inches. Here's a video that shows the grid and how the software works. ua-cam.com/video/7-eGbtJNBBw/v-deo.html
Wait 2 lanes and 4 cars 🚘😑
Yes, with digital you can run up to 6 cars plus several AI (ghost car) on the same two lanes. Plus switch to either lane at the crossover sections. 🙂
Can i have the layout for this track plz :)
i found it thx
Great video! Do the Ram-Jet controllers come with long cables? I prefer wired controllers over wireless but the standard Carrera controller cables are very limiting. I would prefer to be able to spread out around the track as seen in your video.
I got my Ram-Jet's from LEB. They came with the longer cable so I believe it's standard with the Ram-Jet's LEB offer. Thanks.
@@rickrideout Thanks!
Have you installed lane gates on your crossovers?
Lane Gate Anti Collision Chip installed in all my lane changers.
I assume that you race with Magnets?
Center (Front) magnet only. I have found that removing all the magnets causes the cars to drift (or step out) to much. Like the car is driving on ice. The prototypes of this style race car don't have the rear ends hanging out around the corners. But running both magnets gives the car to much grip and there's not much controlling the car around the corner. It sticks to the corner until it flies off you can't control the slide. So I found that one center magnet works pretty good. I place a shim under the magnet to decrease the grip on some of the faster cars that still have to much grip. But I only run the center magnet. I want the car to have some grip without having to add weight to the car. Seems silly to remove all the magnets and then add weight to the car to get it to grip. You'll see the cars step out in the corners on the video and we have to control it. So it's a decision we all have to make. Run all magnets and the car sticks like glue around the corners and is easy to drive, Remove all the magnets then drift around the corners which is unrealistic for this style car. Remove all the magnets then add weight. Or remove one of the magnets and shim until you get a car that has some grip but still requires throttle control to get around the corners without looking like it's driving on ice.
very similar to my layout. great video. thank you. one more thing… which application you use to control de track? is it Pc Lap Counter?
Thank you, I'm using the Smartrace app for the lap counter., fuel etc. Here's their website: www.smartrace.de/
Beautiful track. Awesome video. Thanks for sharing. I subbed ya.
What r u using for the elevated sections? Awesome track
I used 1x2 lumber and made risers to support the track. Risers are in 1/2 inch increments. (2 Inch, 2-1/2, 3, 3-1/2, 4, 4-1/2 etc.) The risers also have a 2 degree angle to match the slope of the track. Here's a link to some photos of a 3 inch riser. imgur.com/a/wCRU5P1
@rickrideout that's awesome, thanks so much.
Do you guys have a track call/stop button at each station? If so how is it wired to your carrera track. Thanks
We do not have call button at each station. We're using our smart phones with the Smart Race app to stop the race. That way smart race can keep up with how many times each driver causes a caution and give penalties if you cause to many. I'm not sure how to go about wiring in call/stop buttons at each station.
@rickrideout ok great we are using same just wondering if you had call button
Salut my friend super car super video subscribe subscribe 🚗🚗🙄🙄😎😎
Thank you. Check out my more recent videos. We've come a long way since this one. 🙂
In the app you have shown on all the parts needed to build this track did you start with the base Carrera 132 digital track and build off of it or did you individually piece this whole track together? I’m thinking about building this track but wondering what’s the best way to do it. Thanks
If you need cars and the basic Carrera controllers then it's a bit cheaper to start with any digital set that Carrara offers. That way you'll have everything to get started. Like cars, Control Unit, Power supply, controllers plus some track and one lane changer. Then order all the other pieces that you need to complete the track you want. If you know your not going to use the basic controllers, power supply and you already have some cars then just purchase the control unit and all pieces separately. I started with a basic 2 car Carrera Digital set and then added everything else separately. But over time I replaced all the controllers, power supply and don't even run the cars that came with the set any more, so if I'd known what I was going to end up with in the end it would have been a little cheaper just to get it all separately. You'll have to do the math to see what ends up being the best deal for you. :-)
Is it politically incorrect to enter the pit during a caution flag?
We experiment with different rules each time we race. So far we haven't allowed pitting during a caution. The rules are something you have to play with and see what works best for you or adds more fun to the racing. As time goes on I'm sure we'll test the idea of beginning able to pit during a caution just to see how that changes things. But for now it's not allowed.
..Salut my friend super car super video subscribe subscribe
The only thing I disagree with is being able to reset your car. IMO crashing is part of racing, you crash, you're out.
We're not professional or do this full time, so we do crash more often than we should. We just get together and try to have some good fun competitive racing. Having a rule that one crash and you're out of the race would take a lot of the fun out of it, and the racing wouldn't be near as good because no one would want to take any chances and it would become boring. Basically just cruise around the track hoping everyone else will come off. Besides, didn't you ever see Dale Earnhardt flip down Daytona's backstretch in the 1997 Daytona 500. He gets back in the wrecked car and finishes the race? :-)
@@rickrideout That's true, but the constant stopping the whole race would get to me after a while. The thing about crashing is, and I saw this in r/c racing, there are some who just drive like idiots knowing someone will be along to flip them back onto the track. I watched one where they finally DQ'd one driver because they couldn't make it around the track without flipping 5 times. They finally had enough.
The thing about boring, that might happen, but if you want to "win" you'd have to get better and to get better, you take chances and learn by your mistakes.
The Smartrace connect app that each driver uses on their phones can be set to hand out penalties for throwing a caution. I can set the penalty time as long as I want. So I can use that if I need too, I used that before I did the caution buttons. But I feel lucky that I have guys what want to come over and race with me and I wish we were good enough that we never crash but most my group doesn't have their own tracks to practice on so they only get to practice when they're here. I have to keep that in mind and not make it so stressful to race here that they don't want to come back. 🙂
@@rickrideout yeah I was thinking about practicing, and "home field advantage" haha
I didn't mean this as an insult to you, you run your track the way you like, I'm just some knob on the internet. But just saying, I'd get frustrated having to stop every lap or two cuz bruno pegs the throttle and flies off every turn lol.
Yes, I have an advantage, I set up all the cars for the exchange championship race and it's my track to practice on. I keep that in mind but these guys still beat me. 🙂 If I felt someone was repeatably crashing on purpose I'd not be happy about it, but we're all friends and doing the best we can. 🙂
Retire os imãs, pois assim, com imãs, fica muito infantil.
We only use one magnet in the center of the car. This way the car will still slide and it requires throttle control to get the car around the corner. We feel that a road racing car shouldn't look like it's drifting around all the corners. For a road racing car to be drifting around all the corners looks a bit more childish to us.
Great layout and thanks for sharing insight on the build.
remove the magnets again try again!
We have removed the main magnet that produces the most traction. We're running 1.5 -2.0 oz of magnetic grip. Without any magnets the cars look like they're sprint car running on dirt and that would be totally wrong for this style of car.
Salut my friend super car ... super video subscribe subscribe
Thank you!
Hi Rick, I see you are running SmartRace on an iPad. How did you get the iPad to output a full 16:9 image to the monitor? Thank you!
I have the TV on Stretch. It's hard to tell that it's stretched and fills the screen.
@@rickrideout good idea, thank you Rick!!!! And thank you for answering your viewer's questions!