Hi there - It can be too difficult to install the wiggle wire without making a relief cut in the film. Once you've created the "X" cut, you can use those flaps to pull the film taut before installing each section of wiggle wire.
@@HarrisSeedsCompany Thanks - one more question. I'm planning on putting two in a 24' X 12' high tunnel. Does it matter if I put them directly across from each other (e.g., both on the right sides of the doors, directly ahead of each other), or would placing one on the near side left of the door, and one on the far side right of the door provide a better draft?
I had the top of the piston blow out today. Not sure why. Any ideas on that? What should I do to correct that? Temperature got over 100 degrees in there.
We're sorry to hear that. If you ordered from Harris Seeds, please reach out via our online contact form (www.harrisseeds.com/pages/case), or call us at 800-544-7938 so we can assist you.
Thanks for reaching out! A failure to close is usually caused by a few very simple issues with the setup: First, make sure the T-bracket that holds the cotter pin is rotated such that the pin holes are facing away from the black cylinder. The piston of the opener should be entering the horizontal arm of the T-bracket. Installing in reverse will increase the travel of the opener and can prevent the opener arms from returning to the closed position. Second, be sure that the arms of the opener are attached to the correct hole in the center connecting vane of the shutter. This will maintain spring tension on the arms and will force the opener back to the closed position upon cooling. Lastly, make sure that the screw and nut securing the opener's arms to the center connecting vane is not over-tightened. If this connection is too tight, the opener will be strong enough to force the shutter open, but the return springs will not have enough force to overcome the tightness of that connection to pull the shutter back to the closed position.
Have you seen our video tutorial on how to install small automatic vents in your greenhouse or high tunnel? Check out our quick video here: ua-cam.com/video/Zmqw3WziYvo/v-deo.html
Have you seen our video tutorial on how to install small automatic vents in your greenhouse or high tunnel? Check out our quick video here: ua-cam.com/video/Zmqw3WziYvo/v-deo.html
Love it!
VonFej61 is
so simple! i love it!
If you want your plastic to stay taut, why cut the film before you use the wiggle wire? Will it be too taught to get the wire to snap in? Thanks.
Hi there - It can be too difficult to install the wiggle wire without making a relief cut in the film. Once you've created the "X" cut, you can use those flaps to pull the film taut before installing each section of wiggle wire.
@@HarrisSeedsCompany Thanks - one more question. I'm planning on putting two in a 24' X 12' high tunnel. Does it matter if I put them directly across from each other (e.g., both on the right sides of the doors, directly ahead of each other), or would placing one on the near side left of the door, and one on the far side right of the door provide a better draft?
I had the top of the piston blow out today. Not sure why. Any ideas on that? What should I do to correct that? Temperature got over 100 degrees in there.
We're sorry to hear that. If you ordered from Harris Seeds, please reach out via our online contact form (www.harrisseeds.com/pages/case), or call us at 800-544-7938 so we can assist you.
How does this work if you need more robust intake outage like with a fan and if you need circulation during the cold?
This vent is designed for passive cooling only, but adding a fan near the shutter can help force more air to exit the greenhouse.
My vent opens fine but never closes, although I can manually close it. It never closes on its own...and it is brand new! Any advice?
Thanks for reaching out!
A failure to close is usually caused by a few very simple issues with the setup:
First, make sure the T-bracket that holds the cotter pin is rotated such that the pin holes are facing away from the black cylinder. The piston of the opener should be entering the horizontal arm of the T-bracket. Installing in reverse will increase the travel of the opener and can prevent the opener arms from returning to the closed position.
Second, be sure that the arms of the opener are attached to the correct hole in the center connecting vane of the shutter. This will maintain spring tension on the arms and will force the opener back to the closed position upon cooling.
Lastly, make sure that the screw and nut securing the opener's arms to the center connecting vane is not over-tightened. If this connection is too tight, the opener will be strong enough to force the shutter open, but the return springs will not have enough force to overcome the tightness of that connection to pull the shutter back to the closed position.
Спасибо. Хорошее видео. И все понятно.
Nice. Would it be prudent to say that you need at least 2 vents for a greenhouse?
Yes we recommend having one at each end of the greenhouse or tunnel.
@@HarrisSeedsCompany would I also need rollup walls if I have a door on one side and a vent on another? (8x16 foot greenhouse)
If you are using a fan, does it make a different if you go north to south or south to north?
If adding a fan, ideally you would not install the shutter on the windward side of the structure, if possible.
Learn how to install an automatic vent for high tunnels and greenhouses with our latest video tutorial!
NICE!!
Thanks Kris!
Have you seen our video tutorial on how to install small automatic vents in your greenhouse or high tunnel? Check out our quick video here: ua-cam.com/video/Zmqw3WziYvo/v-deo.html
You are linking to the video that this comment is on?
Have you seen our video tutorial on how to install small automatic vents in your greenhouse or high tunnel? Check out our quick video here: ua-cam.com/video/Zmqw3WziYvo/v-deo.html