Lovely to see this car again! I worked at Ottercraft in Cornwall, England making these back in the 1980's. Glad to see it's still looking beautiful, keep up the good work.
Anthony, thanks for the comments .... the car is now back on oldtimer plates in belgium and I do drive it every so often... I just love it , and its an eye catcher.... I would love to hear more from you, on what you did, how many cars were build ... etc.... in fact the Steadman story is of great interest....You can also mail me if you want... maybe you have some picture from those days.... Much appreciated ... My mail Steve@flashsplash.be
For the first time i understood what that distribution part does besides feeding each spark plug with the precious electrons: it sincronizes the time each one gets the the "kick". Not that i really was after that explanation. That tell me how good of a teacher (and video editor also) you actually are.
Great video again, I’ve recently been catching up on a lot of your car videos and have found the pinto belt replacement one so useful, time and time again as I have the same engine on my Westfield. Nice now spring is here to be out enjoying the weather
Loved this video and all the detail you presented. I learned a lot from it and videos like this serve to de-mystify the Lamborghini engines especially when you relate various parts to their VW/Audi counterparts. It says to me at least that I might be able to run and maintain one of these in the future.
Hi Steve, oddly I changed the plugs and leads on my John Cooper Mini today with NGK plugs and leads. In the paperwork with the plugs was a notice from NGK saying never lubricate the spark plug thread on plugs with shiny silver threads. On dull, bare metal threads you can use light oil etc. This caught me out as I have always put some form of anti seize on plug threads but NGK were very firm about this. Great video as usual.. thank you.
@@Paulman50 I have looked into it and it’s todo with tightening down the plugs. With the bright silver threaded plugs, that silver is a protective layer to stop seizing. If you add more to the threads you will not be able to tighten down to the correct number specified for your car. Dull bare metal plugs do not have the anti seize on them (cheaper plugs) and thus you apply as required.
Steve, nice ride. Yes transmission fluid change and if you are baselining the car perhaps diff and brake fluid change as well. Look forward to the next vid.
I just noticed the fuel filter is a bottom feed type. This means any sediment or water that is filtered out can return to the fuel line. A top or side feed gives a bowl to collect such things. I had a production car that had steel fuel lines that was like that, returning any water for another chance at rust (call me compulsive).
Although I've never been too fond of replica cars, I have to say this one is growing on me. Looks very nice and original like. Great video too. Btw as for filters, I have this one car where I always struck the filter with a screwdriver and turn it so because the access is just so bad. I don't really enjoy either haha.
I always liked the idea of twin SUs up top of an air-cooled VW. One feeding 1 & 3, the other 2 & 4. Great carbs and a good way of eliminating intake overlap.
I have had luck taking an angle grinder and roughing up the inside of the links on a chain link type oil filter wrench... It tends to slip less on the oily painted surface of the oil filter.
With the electronic ignition I would be tempted to run BPR5ES spark plugs instead of BP5ES - you get significantly less electrical interference with the resistor plugs.
Agree on the oil filter replacement, not a fun of this as well. I blame the tool I use so was searching diferent tools to do this... end up to have right now probably 4 or 5 oil filter removal tool in diferent design,. never satisfied with any of that. Until I just see one of my friend do this in a kind of crude way... he just drive a big screwdriver thru the body of the filter, exactly in the position he like, creating like this a big leverage that allow him to loose the filter. Yes you punch the metal, but who cares... the filter end up in the waste any way. Become my favorite method since... The money I spend on the tools are not completely waste as I still need one to tight the new filter in place. And depending on what I work, different design helps for better accessibility. Your tip about provide a little bit of oil film on the new filter gasket is a kind of a must in my opinion, other way the rubber will stick to the engine block and make the next replacement very difficult. Really enjoy your way of working and the way you explain things, grate job!
A lovely old car with modern advantages. With CDI ignitions the running of the spark plug leads is critical due to the fast rise time of the spark. If leads run parallel the capacitance between the leads can cause a plug to fire at (exactly) the wrong time. In a 4 cyl engine it's easy to run the leads to cross over than run parallel. A small point that I think spoils the look of a beautiful car is the headlights, obviously large to keep the period and proportional look. Could stainless steel cones be made to fill in the area between the modern headlights and the period outside shell? Just a thought. I love all your cars and your method of explaining your tasks. Best wishes from Australia.
Always very nice to see your videos. And what a nice car. Rare aswell with only 28 made 👌 That was one very tight fitting oil filter.😅 Did you consider fitting a catalytic converter? Its a common question I get why I dont remove the cat since my car dont have to have one. But I rather really think people should install them. Not for the environmental issue, more to save my own lungs.
Hi Steve, I have a sort of side question for you. With you having a few car how do you insure them is it a single insurance policy or do you insure them separately. Regards John
Steve..i assume you are a proud member of the Steadman TS Club..pretty exclusive i say...amazing that the car took some 1800+ plus hours to produce...great investment too..
On old engines like this, I always set the timing by ear due to the tolerances being way out from factory specifications. Advance it until you hear pinking under load and then back off until you can't detect any more pinking. I do like the 123 Ignition distributors where in addition to being electronic, they allow you to change advance curves too. They still look OEM which is nice.
Thomas, that is indeed the method that I also use, first with the stobolight ( knowing that the markings might not be 100% correct) and then though and listen for the final adjustement
8 degree advance do you mean 8 degrees BTD. tell me steve, when you start t accelerate must the degrees increase . lets say at 2000rpm from 800 what is be moshitoa south africa
Yes that is BTD , yes once you accelerate the advance increases due to the bob waits in the distributor. when you let the pedal go then then vacuum retards the advance... I have a full video on this on my channel. Have a great day Moshitoa , where are you located if I may ask ?
@@D3Sshooter hahaha, you don't know your subscribers Steve. I am one of those came to channel on mf35. I commented on most of your videos. I come from south Africa M.b.s moshitoa (south Africa
@@D3Sshooter he Steve gij zij nen bangelijke gast ,hoe dat gij daar allemaal tijd voor maakt voor die filmkes is mij een raadsel, ik heb er ook een stuk of 50 op staan van allerlei machines en auto's, maar uw filmkes zijn wel af he.
the size of a 2.8 is the same as the 4.2 . But you can see it on the side of the engine block, it is marked. I prefer the 2.8 because it refs higher. Not like a typical jag engine. If it revs higher than 5000, it is a 2.8
Me gusta tu canal. No me gusta nada tu "Jaguar": es falso, es una mentira rodante, es el sueño húmedo de un narcotraficante menor, una desgracia automóvil, un artefacto olvidable. Por favor, haz un favor a la humanidad y quémalo.
Lovely to see this car again! I worked at Ottercraft in Cornwall, England making these back in the 1980's. Glad to see it's still looking beautiful, keep up the good work.
Anthony, thanks for the comments .... the car is now back on oldtimer plates in belgium and I do drive it every so often... I just love it , and its an eye catcher.... I would love to hear more from you, on what you did, how many cars were build ... etc.... in fact the Steadman story is of great interest....You can also mail me if you want... maybe you have some picture from those days.... Much appreciated ... My mail Steve@flashsplash.be
For the first time i understood what that distribution part does besides feeding each spark plug with the precious electrons: it sincronizes the time each one gets the the "kick". Not that i really was after that explanation. That tell me how good of a teacher (and video editor also) you actually are.
Thanks for the comments
Balm for the mind in these troubling times.
Thanks for the comments
It’s always a plea to watch your quality videos Steve because you know you are going to learn
Thanks for the comments William
Great video again, I’ve recently been catching up on a lot of your car videos and have found the pinto belt replacement one so useful, time and time again as I have the same engine on my Westfield. Nice now spring is here to be out enjoying the weather
Great to hear!
Loved this video and all the detail you presented. I learned a lot from it and videos like this serve to de-mystify the Lamborghini engines especially when you relate various parts to their VW/Audi counterparts.
It says to me at least that I might be able to run and maintain one of these in the future.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Had to laugh when you were cranking on that old oil filter! lol
Thanks, Steve. Beautiful car by the way....
Glad you enjoyed it, hahaha I really do hate those oilfilters
Hi Steve, oddly I changed the plugs and leads on my John Cooper Mini today with NGK plugs and leads. In the paperwork with the plugs was a notice from NGK saying never lubricate the spark plug thread on plugs with shiny silver threads. On dull, bare metal threads you can use light oil etc. This caught me out as I have always put some form of anti seize on plug threads but NGK were very firm about this. Great video as usual.. thank you.
I think thats more for conductivity than anything else. I don't make spark plugs so don't quote me on that one.
@@Paulman50 conductivity is obvious but never occurred to me until you mentioned that haha, the anti sieze I use is conductive luckily
@@Paulman50 I have looked into it and it’s todo with tightening down the plugs. With the bright silver threaded plugs, that silver is a protective layer to stop seizing. If you add more to the threads you will not be able to tighten down to the correct number specified for your car. Dull bare metal plugs do not have the anti seize on them (cheaper plugs) and thus you apply as required.
Thanks for the comments, that is one of those controversial points indeed. I have always done it , never had an issue with it
Thanks for the comments, possible
Steve, nice ride. Yes transmission fluid change and if you are baselining the car perhaps diff and brake fluid change as well. Look forward to the next vid.
Thanks for the comments and indeed that is all on the agenda
Gorgeous looking car and she purrs like a kitten 👌👍
Thanks for the comments
Nice car. Great work as always
Waw, dit is echt wel een beauty ! Heerlijk om je opnieuw bezig te zien 😉
Bedankt, ja en deze was nogal een probleem voor de papieren, speciaal formulier and dossier moeten aanvragen
@@D3Sshooter Tja, ik ken dat papiergedoe...
Thank you Steve. From another Steve in Brisbane Australia
Thanks for the comments Steve
Great content Steve.
Thank you for the comments
Beautiful engine
Thank you
I just noticed the fuel filter is a bottom feed type. This means any sediment or water that is filtered out can return to the fuel line. A top or side feed gives a bowl to collect such things. I had a production car that had steel fuel lines that was like that, returning any water for another chance at rust (call me compulsive).
Although I've never been too fond of replica cars, I have to say this one is growing on me. Looks very nice and original like. Great video too.
Btw as for filters, I have this one car where I always struck the filter with a screwdriver and turn it so because the access is just so bad. I don't really enjoy either haha.
Fair enough!, thanks for the comments
Goedemorgen Steve. Hope you’re ok 👍🏻 What a lovely car 🤩 Great video as always. Looking forward to seeing part 2 😎🏴
Thanks for the comments Stevie, yep we slowly get back in action after all the house work
I always liked the idea of twin SUs up top of an air-cooled VW. One feeding 1 & 3, the other 2 & 4. Great carbs and a good way of eliminating intake overlap.
Indeed , Thanks for the comments
Replace the chain on the filter wrench with an old chain from a chain saw for extra grip on the filter.
Thanks for the comments, locking chainsaw chain will be the issue
I have had luck taking an angle grinder and roughing up the inside of the links on a chain link type oil filter wrench... It tends to slip less on the oily painted surface of the oil filter.
Thanks for the comments, sounds like a good idea
With the electronic ignition I would be tempted to run BPR5ES spark plugs instead of BP5ES - you get significantly less electrical interference with the resistor plugs.
Thanks for the comments, Good for the next change
Love your work 👍
Thanks for the comments
Lovely car Steve and great content. I must admit, I enjoyed your oil filter removal a bit too much .. :D
Glad you enjoyed it
Agree on the oil filter replacement, not a fun of this as well. I blame the tool I use so was searching diferent tools to do this... end up to have right now probably 4 or 5 oil filter removal tool in diferent design,. never satisfied with any of that. Until I just see one of my friend do this in a kind of crude way... he just drive a big screwdriver thru the body of the filter, exactly in the position he like, creating like this a big leverage that allow him to loose the filter. Yes you punch the metal, but who cares... the filter end up in the waste any way.
Become my favorite method since...
The money I spend on the tools are not completely waste as I still need one to tight the new filter in place. And depending on what I work, different design helps for better accessibility.
Your tip about provide a little bit of oil film on the new filter gasket is a kind of a must in my opinion, other way the rubber will stick to the engine block and make the next replacement very difficult.
Really enjoy your way of working and the way you explain things, grate job!
A lovely old car with modern advantages. With CDI ignitions the running of the spark plug leads is critical due to the fast rise time of the spark. If leads run parallel the capacitance between the leads can cause a plug to fire at (exactly) the wrong time. In a 4 cyl engine it's easy to run the leads to cross over than run parallel.
A small point that I think spoils the look of a beautiful car is the headlights, obviously large to keep the period and proportional look. Could stainless steel cones be made to fill in the area between the modern headlights and the period outside shell? Just a thought. I love all your cars and your method of explaining your tasks.
Best wishes from Australia.
Nice car & good video
Glad you liked it!
Always very nice to see your videos.
And what a nice car. Rare aswell with only 28 made 👌
That was one very tight fitting oil filter.😅
Did you consider fitting a catalytic converter?
Its a common question I get why I dont remove the cat since my car dont have to have one. But I rather really think people should install them.
Not for the environmental issue, more to save my own lungs.
Nice video. Lovely car.
Glad you enjoyed it, Thanks for the comments
Hi Steve, I have a sort of side question for you. With you having a few car how do you insure them is it a single insurance policy or do you insure them separately. Regards John
John, they are all insured individual as oldtimer , that is about 145 euro per car....yearly
@@D3Sshooter that’s not so bad Steve, I take it it’s a limited mileage thing too?
@@johnscott8592 , No limits except that you may not use the car for work-home commuting
Steve..i assume you are a proud member of the Steadman TS Club..pretty exclusive i say...amazing that the car took some 1800+ plus hours to produce...great investment too..
Yes I am, Thanks for the comments
Excellent sir
On old engines like this, I always set the timing by ear due to the tolerances being way out from factory specifications. Advance it until you hear pinking under load and then back off until you can't detect any more pinking.
I do like the 123 Ignition distributors where in addition to being electronic, they allow you to change advance curves too. They still look OEM which is nice.
Thomas, that is indeed the method that I also use, first with the stobolight ( knowing that the markings might not be 100% correct) and then though and listen for the final adjustement
Is the Old Rusty project abandoned?
Not at all, its progressed nut all the same work ... I did not tape it. soon a new episode
8 degree advance do you mean 8 degrees BTD.
tell me steve, when you start t accelerate must the degrees increase . lets say at 2000rpm from 800 what is be
moshitoa south africa
Yes that is BTD , yes once you accelerate the advance increases due to the bob waits in the distributor. when you let the pedal go then then vacuum retards the advance... I have a full video on this on my channel. Have a great day Moshitoa , where are you located if I may ask ?
@@D3Sshooter hahaha, you don't know your subscribers Steve. I am one of those came to channel on mf35. I commented on most of your videos.
I come from south Africa
M.b.s moshitoa (south Africa
@@m.b.smoshitoa8325 , I know you are one of my long time subscribers . Of course I knew it was SA... just wondered which region....
Hi Steve, one other thing the spare wheel, will that pass the MOT?
Thanks for the comments, yes ... I would see why not .... is there a reason that it makes you wonder ? Maybe something I am not aware off ?
He Steve ,ik heb net een 123 stroomverdeler geplaatst op mijn 420G ,geen problemen meer met contaktpunen en condensator, en dat voor 230 €.
Yep, dat werk goed. Heb ik ook al gebruikt
@@D3Sshooter he Steve gij zij nen bangelijke gast ,hoe dat gij daar allemaal tijd voor maakt voor die filmkes is mij een raadsel, ik heb er ook een stuk of 50 op staan van allerlei machines en auto's, maar uw filmkes zijn wel af he.
Dag Steve,
Mogen we nog defender films verwachten?
Grts Michiel
Ja , die gaan er ook nog komen
@@D3Sshooter 👍top
the size of a 2.8 is the same as the 4.2 . But you can see it on the side of the engine block, it is marked. I prefer the 2.8 because it refs higher. Not like a typical jag engine. If it revs higher than 5000, it is a 2.8
Thanks for the comments
Me gusta tu canal. No me gusta nada tu "Jaguar": es falso, es una mentira rodante, es el sueño húmedo de un narcotraficante menor, una desgracia automóvil, un artefacto olvidable. Por favor, haz un favor a la humanidad y quémalo.
Thanks for the comments