For me, everytime I insert the threaded insert nut, I will push it inside 3/4 of its height, then flip the 3d printed part making the side on a flat table then gently apply pressure on the printed part. The threaded insert will always be perfectly straight. No failure at all and very simple
@@TheLordinio If you really need a linear motion part that make sure it can go down straight, try 3d printer nozzle, heat it up to a certain temperature, manually adjust the z feedrate, and manual move the nozzle down. Bomb
@@hugolatra I wish he mentioned this method in the video. It’s still useful if you are a maker space or make little series of things for selling in etzy for example. Also people with difficulties in their ability’s could use it.
great project. if I may suggest you should add an adjustable stop so you can have good repeatability on parts where you need multiple inserts across the same plane
Great idea, nice design. Big fan of your content. I took your idea and went a step futher, by recycling an old crappy drill press. Gutted the motor and electrics, kept the base, upright and spring return head mechanism, Adapted a clamp to hold my soldering iron and voila! A heat insert press with adjustable depth stop and spring return tri-lobe handle. Works great. Thanks for the idea. Cheers
I work as an engineer. My nephew is doing work experience with me here. I saw your vid a while ago and revisited today. Had a look at the BOM and turns out I have all the parts spare! So that’s the project for tomorrow for the noobie.
I actually planned to build one of those when I got hold onto some inserts for a project but never really found the motivation to actually build one - mostly because I never actually had any of the described problems of inserts pulling out again or them being so much ( or even just remotely ) off axis for them to cause a problem - I do though use the method of either inserting them into the material only 4/5 the way in using the soldering and then do the final push using a piece of metal ( like an oversized M10 Hex Bit ) that will both straighten _and_ flush it to the surface while preventing squeeze out around the perimeter or just flip the part and press it upside down on a heat resistant ( piece of aluminium ) surface if the geometry allows for it.
yeah for one or two inserts on a part this method works fine, but if you have say 10 parts that need 13 inserts each, this tool makes perfect sense and will ensure repeatable results just not gained from doing them by hand, however well calibrated your arms are lol
Professional Suggestion. Most of my customer work in this way when quantity is less. As source factory, we sue automotic install machinery to push them in bulk once. If you need thread insert nut sample, we are willing to provide.
I push inserts in about 90% of the way and then I use an old gauge pin that's larger than the insert to push it in the rest of the way. The gauge pin both gets the insert flush and acts as a heat sync to cool the insert enough to lock it in place.
Really a good way. Use an old gauge can help you clearl see the install all process, I am threaded insert nut source factory, if you need sample for new item, i can send you free sample.
This inspires me to make a cnc version based on a 3D printer, imagine if you will, all the possibilities with 3 degrees of freedom for installing threaded inserts. It can install a threaded insert over here, or, how about over there? Yeah! That wasn’t possible before. All jokes aside, I have a project I want to work on and as a precursor project, i plan to make a 3d printer with a changing tool head. This, obviously being modified to fit to a 3d printer, could be very revolutionary. Especially if the printer can have 4 degrees of freedom and automatically pickup threaded inserts. You can make a print that might need inserts on the side and so the printer can switch tools to the insert head, grab an insert then add it in on the side of the print.
I have been meaning to design exactly this same thing. There are some other designs out there but they seemed a bit overcomplicated and I wanted to utilize some of the spare printer parts I have around - and this is exactly what I had in mind. definitely going to print this out. Good work! Thanks for sharing.
Oh I get it now. I thought there was going to be more to this. This is for people who dont have the dexterity to drill a hole straight or put in an insert straight. I personally dont have an issue doing them especially using the special soldering iron tips that are made for doing them but I am glad someone made a tool for those people that need it.
even better, I have a drillpress frame for an electric drill, so will just need to 3d print a collar for the iron. (ok, I could run something up on my lathe even quicker)
add an adjustable stop to the bottom so that if you have a lot of inserts to install they will all be set to the same depth - great design and I will be making one myself as soon as I finish my other projects
What kind of solder iron like the one you mentioned on the video, just the standard electronic soldering iron? Also, would it be easier if we use a drill bench press where you use the lever to lower it down and retract it back up? I find your video tutorial more interesting and affordable. Thank you.
Nice gadget. Regarding the base of the unit, I see a problem with applying inserts in the middle of larger parts due to the small size of the base. One could take a piece of the same base material to elevate the part or just make a larger base. And for inserts that need to be applied at angles, you could print some V-blocks for support at various angles like 30, 45 and 60 degrees. Also, if you don't have GT2 idlers handy GT2 gears could be used by reversing the belt.
I took a pin and made a step at the end in the same minor diameter of whatever size insert. I use it for the last 10%. Sharper the corner you can get, the better. Works perfect every time. You just need a different pin for each thread size.
They make a simple end that is designed for installing inserts. Its made for a Hakko 88 soldering iron I have one and it works great the make several different sizes also.
This is great for inserting into a square piece i.e. where the part itself sits square on a table. Side note: the majority of things I have ever printed need inserts added but the item doesn't sit flat on a table. Example: I just printed some DIN rail brackets. In some cases I guess the part could be held in a jig / clamp. If you are making loads and accuracy is important then yes - a clamp plus the vertical insertion tool is probably very sensible. For me personally it's a bit of a niche case. That said, it's a great idea and nicely executed!
Well done, I've been playing with inserts lately and found installing them crooked was quite easy to do. I came to UA-cam today looking for a solution just like this.
I think that perhaps simply making an adapter for a Dremel drill press unit would be simpler. IF I find myself in need of this solution, I will look into it further. Of course, if a person doesn't have a Dremel DP unit handy or isn't interested in getting one, then this looks like a fine whiz-bang solution. Well done.
Thanks Adam, definitely on my todo list. Your CAD abilities are far greater than mine but I can modify your files to fit the iron I have, thank you again
You should choose a very popular widely available cheap soldering iron and link it in the description, for those of us that aren’t so great at modifying the grip, also you get a small affiliate fee for all of us that bought it in return for such a great idea, seems like a win-win
Hi ! really cool project ! However, i gotta ask, what is bhs and chs ? bolt head screw and countersunk head screw ? I can't find anything related to this on google, and my book about screws is in french
I used over 200 inserts of the voron recommended ones and around 200 ones from ruthex that won the strength test from cnc kitchen. I have yet to have one be of center or coming back out. I use a ts-100 soldering iron and have it set for 200 when I do abs.
Is there a reason it's so giarnormous? I mean, I can see that the head pushing in the insert is moving not more than 1cm. If it's smaller .... well, my house is pretty small. So smaller things are easier to store when I'm not using them. What I mean to ask, is have you already tried a smaller version, and found there is some unexpected problem, which is why it is now so big. I feel tempted to scale it down or up (so that it can double up as a drill press), but would like to know if there are some pit falls, so as to avoid falling down the same hole other people have already been in.
Nice vid and stuff, but please see if you could find a different timelapse song or something cause that continuous clicking sound in it that sounds like it's coming from a clock or a camera shutter is really annoying to the point of getting a small headache, other than that, really nice!
I just push them in 90% of the way then finish them off with a machinist square to get them flush. I've never had a misaligned threaded insert or issues with flush mounting. I like that the square makes sure the insert and the melted plastic are flush. I do like how the counterbalance keeps it up and out of the way.
Nice job bud, I will have a go at making this as I have most of those bits kicking about as well, I might make a counter weight though using small bearings.
Could you upload the source CAD assembly as a .step? The assembly didn't work from the .f3z, and when I tried to extract it, couldn't open the.f3d files, gave a message that I wasn't authorized to open them. Thanks!
Can't find the instructions to create the specialised tip for pressing the inserts in. They are expensive to buy commercially and hard to get. I like that he uses an inset for the contact plate and assume that the rest is turned. However, I don't own a lathe. Any idea on how I might manufacture it?
This is great for Voron builds since minute issues such as an angled threaded insert will affect machine accuracy and stability. being that vorons utilize a lot of these things.
so the one thing i wanted to know never gets shown i wanted to know how to make the adapter for my soldering iron the part that you use to push/heat the nuts
Nice little tool... it would work better with a geared wheel to lower / raise it similar to a drill press... and a stopper at the hot tip so it sits flush instead of having to gauge the depth manually
Hello Adam! Thank you for the shared it’s a wonderful design! Sadly my iron won’t fit on the tip, any design yet for larger soldering iron? Got the SREMTCH 80 W Soldering Iron Set from Amazon.
I love that design. Sure, I can push inserts "by hand" with only a soldering iron, yet it's never perfect. It's "good" at best. That kind of tool be quite handy for me.
Does anyone know where I can buy plastic laminated plywood (as shown in the base) anywhere in the United States? It seems common outside of North America. They seem to use it a lot for making forms for pouring concrete because it doesn't show the wood grain in the finished precast concrete.
To be honest, only crap irons have permanent long-taper conical tips. Most irons, including cheap ones, have replaceable tips in some way. And that tip shape is roughly speaking the worst of them all for doing almost anything. Especially soldering. And heat inserts, because of how little contact area there is (and the high risk of wedging the insert stuck on the tip). For soldering you always want the largest surface area contact that will fit and do the job, as quickly as realistically feasible while getting good wetting, with maximum heat transfer to to aid that. Pretty much the same story for hot inserts, but adding the bit about steering clear of tip shapes that can wedge it sticky or stuck on there. If you don't need the tip for anything else, it's perfectly fine to file a tip to the shape you need. It won't solder well anymore, but that's not what we're doing here. Love the jig and solution. Not knocking what you've made here, just crap soldering irons (tips) being crap, and the common go to being the least useful of them all.
I watched you using it on your Voron build and thought it was pretty cool, keeps everything vertical but I don’t do enough of this to justify building this. Did I not see a couple of inserts get pulled out on the build I seem to remember a couple got stuck. A lovely project though.
This is FANTASTIC! I decide to make one for myself! I intend on making a print-farm with multiple Vorons & Ratrigs. I know I will be doing a LOT of heat inserts. QUESTION for you: Can you give me the dimensions of the base? That is one thing that is missing in the instructions. Thanks in advance.
@@Vector3DP Thank you very much good sir! This tool will be more than a little useful! I'll post a pic of my tool along with another to help level parts with uneven surfaces so that my inserts always go in straight.
Trying to find all the parts.. the CSV list is sadly missing a lot of details on exactly what to get. I punch in the names and see all sorts of results.. many of which don't match the parts used in the video. Cool tool.. hoping I can assemble it!
@@Vector3DP Oh man.. I just spent like $180 on amazon to try to buy most of the parts. :(. Hopefully they take returns. Where is this kit you speak of. OK.. I see the full kit on your site.. but it looks different. I printed out all the parts for the original. Will those no longer work with this? Guess I'll try to build it.
Excellent. I want to make the same :) Would it be possible to share the .STEP file ? I do not have Fusion, and I would like to see the full assy in 3D. Thank you.
How about adding a quick adjustable endstop block so the soldering iron can travel down only to a specific height, that way you don't need to worry about over prenetrating.
I like the concept and piece. I might even attempt the build. However, you could dump the background noise, I guess some would call it music. I would have MUCH preferred your comments and NO background “music” rather than the background and your comments drowned out.
And you get the single most important part - (the soldering iron and/or tip) from.....? Great video, great little jig, but without sourcing the correct tip, or a complete new iron and tip it's of no use. When I tried to get one of these a while back they were extremly rare, and most people have a soldering iron so just needed a tip but can't get one.
For those look for parts or kits, I have the latest version as a kit on my website: vector3d.shop/products/vlmp-2-hardware-kit
Link doesn't work. I guess it didn't hold up with the test of time😥
@@NeonDreams7 new website! Vector3d.shop VLMP2 just got released!
For me, everytime I insert the threaded insert nut, I will push it inside 3/4 of its height, then flip the 3d printed part making the side on a flat table then gently apply pressure on the printed part. The threaded insert will always be perfectly straight. No failure at all and very simple
You just make the hole video useless! :D
@@hugolatra Sorry LOL
same and also many parts are not flat on the opposite side of the insert, where this wouldn't work
@@TheLordinio If you really need a linear motion part that make sure it can go down straight, try 3d printer nozzle, heat it up to a certain temperature, manually adjust the z feedrate, and manual move the nozzle down. Bomb
@@hugolatra I wish he mentioned this method in the video.
It’s still useful if you are a maker space or make little series of things for selling in etzy for example. Also people with difficulties in their ability’s could use it.
great project. if I may suggest you should add an adjustable stop so you can have good repeatability on parts where you need multiple inserts across the same plane
Had same thoughts
Building stuff like this is what gets me excited about 3d printing. The utility and enhancement capabilities are just mind blowing!
Great idea, nice design. Big fan of your content.
I took your idea and went a step futher, by recycling an old crappy drill press. Gutted the motor and electrics, kept the base, upright and spring return head mechanism, Adapted a clamp to hold my soldering iron and voila! A heat insert press with adjustable depth stop and spring return tri-lobe handle. Works great. Thanks for the idea. Cheers
This is awesome! I just might try this for one of our soldering iron stations...
I work as an engineer. My nephew is doing work experience with me here. I saw your vid a while ago and revisited today. Had a look at the BOM and turns out I have all the parts spare! So that’s the project for tomorrow for the noobie.
I actually planned to build one of those when I got hold onto some inserts for a project but never really found the motivation to actually build one - mostly because I never actually had any of the described problems of inserts pulling out again or them being so much ( or even just remotely ) off axis for them to cause a problem - I do though use the method of either inserting them into the material only 4/5 the way in using the soldering and then do the final push using a piece of metal ( like an oversized M10 Hex Bit ) that will both straighten _and_ flush it to the surface while preventing squeeze out around the perimeter or just flip the part and press it upside down on a heat resistant ( piece of aluminium ) surface if the geometry allows for it.
yeah for one or two inserts on a part this method works fine, but if you have say 10 parts that need 13 inserts each, this tool makes perfect sense and will ensure repeatable results just not gained from doing them by hand, however well calibrated your arms are lol
Professional Suggestion. Most of my customer work in this way when quantity is less. As source factory, we sue automotic install machinery to push them in bulk once. If you need thread insert nut sample, we are willing to provide.
I push inserts in about 90% of the way and then I use an old gauge pin that's larger than the insert to push it in the rest of the way. The gauge pin both gets the insert flush and acts as a heat sync to cool the insert enough to lock it in place.
Really a good way. Use an old gauge can help you clearl see the install all process, I am threaded insert nut source factory, if you need sample for new item, i can send you free sample.
i am confident the thumbnail was all the description you needed, man.
you could easily add a depth stop to aid in consistency.
Great project! Love the stepper motor counterweight :)
A lot of people will be happy based on the requests from your voron build video
Thanks a million. I appreciate this more than you know.
Danke!
This inspires me to make a cnc version based on a 3D printer, imagine if you will, all the possibilities with 3 degrees of freedom for installing threaded inserts. It can install a threaded insert over here, or, how about over there? Yeah! That wasn’t possible before. All jokes aside, I have a project I want to work on and as a precursor project, i plan to make a 3d printer with a changing tool head. This, obviously being modified to fit to a 3d printer, could be very revolutionary. Especially if the printer can have 4 degrees of freedom and automatically pickup threaded inserts. You can make a print that might need inserts on the side and so the printer can switch tools to the insert head, grab an insert then add it in on the side of the print.
Nice!
Thanks :)
Holy moly, Naomi Wu!
I have been meaning to design exactly this same thing. There are some other designs out there but they seemed a bit overcomplicated and I wanted to utilize some of the spare printer parts I have around - and this is exactly what I had in mind. definitely going to print this out. Good work! Thanks for sharing.
You can also just screw the extrusion to the baseplate through the bottom. Saves screws time and plastic.
Oh I get it now. I thought there was going to be more to this. This is for people who dont have the dexterity to drill a hole straight or put in an insert straight. I personally dont have an issue doing them especially using the special soldering iron tips that are made for doing them but I am glad someone made a tool for those people that need it.
Nice project. Those that already have a drill press could make an adapter to hold the iron paralel with the chuck, for a much simpler print/build.
even better, I have a drillpress frame for an electric drill, so will just need to 3d print a collar for the iron. (ok, I could run something up on my lathe even quicker)
add an adjustable stop to the bottom so that if you have a lot of inserts to install they will all be set to the same depth - great design and I will be making one myself as soon as I finish my other projects
how about adding info about the soldering iron tip itself?
Brilliant! Thanks for showing off your skillz.
What kind of solder iron like the one you mentioned on the video, just the standard electronic soldering iron? Also, would it be easier if we use a drill bench press where you use the lever to lower it down and retract it back up? I find your video tutorial more interesting and affordable. Thank you.
What's the recommended infill for the 3d printed parts?
Nice gadget. Regarding the base of the unit, I see a problem with applying inserts in the middle of larger parts due to the small size of the base. One could take a piece of the same base material to elevate the part or just make a larger base. And for inserts that need to be applied at angles, you could print some V-blocks for support at various angles like 30, 45 and 60 degrees. Also, if you don't have GT2 idlers handy GT2 gears could be used by reversing the belt.
I took a pin and made a step at the end in the same minor diameter of whatever size insert. I use it for the last 10%. Sharper the corner you can get, the better. Works perfect every time. You just need a different pin for each thread size.
They make a simple end that is designed for installing inserts. Its made for a Hakko 88 soldering iron I have one and it works great the make several different sizes also.
This is great for inserting into a square piece i.e. where the part itself sits square on a table. Side note: the majority of things I have ever printed need inserts added but the item doesn't sit flat on a table. Example: I just printed some DIN rail brackets. In some cases I guess the part could be held in a jig / clamp. If you are making loads and accuracy is important then yes - a clamp plus the vertical insertion tool is probably very sensible. For me personally it's a bit of a niche case. That said, it's a great idea and nicely executed!
Liked-Subscribed-Notified- Great work (on the tool and the video production). Hope to see more coming!
Well done, I've been playing with inserts lately and found installing them crooked was quite easy to do. I came to UA-cam today looking for a solution just like this.
Great solution! That custom tip is exactly what I need!
Need "audio ducking" for your background music when you're talking!!! Other than that, Awesome Build!!!😁👍🏻
A hint please!? The tip? From whence does it come? Did you make it yourself on a lathe?
I think that perhaps simply making an adapter for a Dremel drill press unit would be simpler. IF I find myself in need of this solution, I will look into it further. Of course, if a person doesn't have a Dremel DP unit handy or isn't interested in getting one, then this looks like a fine whiz-bang solution. Well done.
I love the variety of your channel, all your video are put together so nicely and are always fun to watch!!
After adding about 1000 inserts so far, I will gladly build this :D
Thanks Adam, definitely on my todo list. Your CAD abilities are far greater than mine but I can modify your files to fit the iron I have, thank you again
Oh now this is clever. Might try this for my upcoming project which uses threaded insert nuts. Subscribed!
You should choose a very popular widely available cheap soldering iron and link it in the description, for those of us that aren’t so great at modifying the grip, also you get a small affiliate fee for all of us that bought it in return for such a great idea, seems like a win-win
Hi ! really cool project ! However, i gotta ask, what is bhs and chs ? bolt head screw and countersunk head screw ? I can't find anything related to this on google, and my book about screws is in french
Just came up in my feed. This is Great! going to build it.
The BOM is the selling point. Many youtubers do not link to a spread sheet BOM. If its too expensive why make it? So i very much appreciate the BOM.
can you give more details about the soldering iron and tip creation?
You could make the head removable and make a camera jig for showing off small parts on your desk.
Interesting to see a two year old video, where now you can buy insert specific hot ends for soldering irons. A cheap must-have tool.
i just thinking, should we buy step motor just to be weight balancer or...
I used over 200 inserts of the voron recommended ones and around 200 ones from ruthex that won the strength test from cnc kitchen. I have yet to have one be of center or coming back out. I use a ts-100 soldering iron and have it set for 200 when I do abs.
Is there a reason it's so giarnormous? I mean, I can see that the head pushing in the insert is moving not more than 1cm. If it's smaller .... well, my house is pretty small. So smaller things are easier to store when I'm not using them.
What I mean to ask, is have you already tried a smaller version, and found there is some unexpected problem, which is why it is now so big. I feel tempted to scale it down or up (so that it can double up as a drill press), but would like to know if there are some pit falls, so as to avoid falling down the same hole other people have already been in.
Nice vid and stuff, but please see if you could find a different timelapse song or something cause that continuous clicking sound in it that sounds like it's coming from a clock or a camera shutter is really annoying to the point of getting a small headache, other than that, really nice!
I just push them in 90% of the way then finish them off with a machinist square to get them flush. I've never had a misaligned threaded insert or issues with flush mounting. I like that the square makes sure the insert and the melted plastic are flush. I do like how the counterbalance keeps it up and out of the way.
In case anyone else missed it, the stepper motor is just being used as a counterweight. I was so confused.
Nice job bud, I will have a go at making this as I have most of those bits kicking about as well, I might make a counter weight though using small bearings.
Could you upload the source CAD assembly as a .step? The assembly didn't work from the .f3z, and when I tried to extract it, couldn't open the.f3d files, gave a message that I wasn't authorized to open them. Thanks!
Thanks, made one recently. Makes it a ton easier.
Can't find the instructions to create the specialised tip for pressing the inserts in. They are expensive to buy commercially and hard to get. I like that he uses an inset for the contact plate and assume that the rest is turned. However, I don't own a lathe. Any idea on how I might manufacture it?
This is great for Voron builds since minute issues such as an angled threaded insert will affect machine accuracy and stability. being that vorons utilize a lot of these things.
i just used a drillpress attachment for a corded drill what i got for 18 euros aka about 19-20 dollars works just fine and has and depth stop
so the one thing i wanted to know never gets shown i wanted to know how to make the adapter for my soldering iron the part that you use to push/heat the nuts
Super clever build, looks like it works really well!
How much of an infill do you recommend for the Soldering Iron Grip if I use ABS or PETG?
it is an amazing design, I would love to make one just do not know where to get the soldering tip for this project
great design 👍
thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
This is great for inserting. Do you have any agent in Thailand ?
Very nice build project for something that I never thought I needed 😁
Brilliant I even have all the parts, so making one tomorrow!
Excellent, share it public on twitter if you use that, @Adam_v3d
What is this part? M5 Excentic Nut 7.1mm OD. The BOM says M5 spacer. What is the length of the M5 spacer? What is BHS & CHS screws?
Nice little tool... it would work better with a geared wheel to lower / raise it similar to a drill press... and a stopper at the hot tip so it sits flush instead of having to gauge the depth manually
I just make the threads by design, it has worked for me even in the industry in jigs for the production lines,
Hello Adam! Thank you for the shared it’s a wonderful design!
Sadly my iron won’t fit on the tip, any design yet for larger soldering iron? Got the SREMTCH 80 W Soldering Iron Set from Amazon.
I love that design.
Sure, I can push inserts "by hand" with only a soldering iron, yet it's never perfect. It's "good" at best. That kind of tool be quite handy for me.
Dude I had the Aida fruit one and when I saw this design I scrapped that one and built this one, well done love the design
I'm gonna need something like this for my current project
I can highly recommend it :D
@@Vector3DP time for another engineering project
Does anyone know where I can buy plastic laminated plywood (as shown in the base) anywhere in the United States? It seems common outside of North America. They seem to use it a lot for making forms for pouring concrete because it doesn't show the wood grain in the finished precast concrete.
Something useful!
Thanks man!
Edit: I'll probably make it out of wood though. Faster, less electricity and using a renewable resource.
To be honest, only crap irons have permanent long-taper conical tips. Most irons, including cheap ones, have replaceable tips in some way. And that tip shape is roughly speaking the worst of them all for doing almost anything. Especially soldering. And heat inserts, because of how little contact area there is (and the high risk of wedging the insert stuck on the tip). For soldering you always want the largest surface area contact that will fit and do the job, as quickly as realistically feasible while getting good wetting, with maximum heat transfer to to aid that. Pretty much the same story for hot inserts, but adding the bit about steering clear of tip shapes that can wedge it sticky or stuck on there. If you don't need the tip for anything else, it's perfectly fine to file a tip to the shape you need. It won't solder well anymore, but that's not what we're doing here.
Love the jig and solution. Not knocking what you've made here, just crap soldering irons (tips) being crap, and the common go to being the least useful of them all.
I watched you using it on your Voron build and thought it was pretty cool, keeps everything vertical but I don’t do enough of this to justify building this.
Did I not see a couple of inserts get pulled out on the build I seem to remember a couple got stuck.
A lovely project though.
The idler one came out when I used it, it that's more due to the print than the inserter. It's performed perfect so far.
This is FANTASTIC! I decide to make one for myself! I intend on making a print-farm with multiple Vorons & Ratrigs. I know I will be doing a LOT of heat inserts. QUESTION for you: Can you give me the dimensions of the base? That is one thing that is missing in the instructions. Thanks in advance.
150x150 is what I've used. Making one side longer to sit below the part being inserted into could be useful though
@@Vector3DP Thank you very much good sir! This tool will be more than a little useful! I'll post a pic of my tool along with another to help level parts with uneven surfaces so that my inserts always go in straight.
Trying to find all the parts.. the CSV list is sadly missing a lot of details on exactly what to get. I punch in the names and see all sorts of results.. many of which don't match the parts used in the video. Cool tool.. hoping I can assemble it!
I am selling kits now if that helps.
@@Vector3DP no. I ordered the $180 in parts. But I have enough to make 30. ;)
@@Vector3DP Oh man.. I just spent like $180 on amazon to try to buy most of the parts. :(. Hopefully they take returns. Where is this kit you speak of. OK.. I see the full kit on your site.. but it looks different. I printed out all the parts for the original. Will those no longer work with this? Guess I'll try to build it.
Ye the newer version is slightly improved design with different parts.
Did you make a video for it.. or instructions? Or is it only that you make/sell those?
This looks like something that could be handy if doing a Voron build. seems like it has a lot of these to do.
Hi Adam, do you have a link to the particular soldering iron / station you're using. Thanks
Excellent. I want to make the same :) Would it be possible to share the .STEP file ? I do not have Fusion, and I would like to see the full assy in 3D. Thank you.
How about adding a quick adjustable endstop block so the soldering iron can travel down only to a specific height, that way you don't need to worry about over prenetrating.
Would be easy to add if you want, but its more of a hassle when switching between parts and to get it in just the right place for the perfect depth.
@@Vector3DP yup for a couple nuts it's not worth it but maybe someone need to do like 50-100 nuts in the same parts it might be handy.
I think you should have used the name I gave it, lol. The Highly Engineered Threaded Insert Tip Setter 😉🤣😂
Your mic vs the background music is a bit off.
Excellent video. Very useful 👌. Thank you ... 🇬🇧
You are welcome!
You forgot to put the googly eyes on the BOM XD
Great project, would it be possible to modify this to also make it into a drill press?
Suggest it would be easier to modify a drill press to hold a soldering iron.
I like the concept and piece. I might even attempt the build. However, you could dump the background noise, I guess some would call it music. I would have MUCH preferred your comments and NO background “music” rather than the background and your comments drowned out.
You can repurpose cheap drill stand to do the same job.
where to find this solder tip?
Adafruit actually sells them. Just search "heat set insert" in the store; they have two different tips.
And you get the single most important part - (the soldering iron and/or tip) from.....?
Great video, great little jig, but without sourcing the correct tip, or a complete new iron and tip it's of no use.
When I tried to get one of these a while back they were extremly rare, and most people have a soldering iron so just needed a tip but can't get one.
They seems to be all over the place tbh, google 'heat set insert tip' and you should find something.
Motor used as counterweight?
Yup, dense object that I already had at hand.
Thanks for sharing 😊
great job on this thanks
I wanted to use a Drill press stand the ones where you clamp in an electric drill. But I seldom use inserts... so...
Hello, very nice job dear, where you shared your stl please ? Thanks
Check description
What's the purpose of having one/two heat set inserts permanently attached to the tool head?
It's just slightly adjustable so the tip doesn't go out the back of the insert. Not normally much of a problem though as there is normally space.
omg, i love this project ! :)
Never heard of this method, any reason you wouldn't make the wholes in the design and then just use superglue on the inserts?