For me, everytime I insert the threaded insert nut, I will push it inside 3/4 of its height, then flip the 3d printed part making the side on a flat table then gently apply pressure on the printed part. The threaded insert will always be perfectly straight. No failure at all and very simple
@@TheLordinio If you really need a linear motion part that make sure it can go down straight, try 3d printer nozzle, heat it up to a certain temperature, manually adjust the z feedrate, and manual move the nozzle down. Bomb
@@hugolatra I wish he mentioned this method in the video. It’s still useful if you are a maker space or make little series of things for selling in etzy for example. Also people with difficulties in their ability’s could use it.
great project. if I may suggest you should add an adjustable stop so you can have good repeatability on parts where you need multiple inserts across the same plane
Great idea, nice design. Big fan of your content. I took your idea and went a step futher, by recycling an old crappy drill press. Gutted the motor and electrics, kept the base, upright and spring return head mechanism, Adapted a clamp to hold my soldering iron and voila! A heat insert press with adjustable depth stop and spring return tri-lobe handle. Works great. Thanks for the idea. Cheers
I actually planned to build one of those when I got hold onto some inserts for a project but never really found the motivation to actually build one - mostly because I never actually had any of the described problems of inserts pulling out again or them being so much ( or even just remotely ) off axis for them to cause a problem - I do though use the method of either inserting them into the material only 4/5 the way in using the soldering and then do the final push using a piece of metal ( like an oversized M10 Hex Bit ) that will both straighten _and_ flush it to the surface while preventing squeeze out around the perimeter or just flip the part and press it upside down on a heat resistant ( piece of aluminium ) surface if the geometry allows for it.
yeah for one or two inserts on a part this method works fine, but if you have say 10 parts that need 13 inserts each, this tool makes perfect sense and will ensure repeatable results just not gained from doing them by hand, however well calibrated your arms are lol
Professional Suggestion. Most of my customer work in this way when quantity is less. As source factory, we sue automotic install machinery to push them in bulk once. If you need thread insert nut sample, we are willing to provide.
Oh I get it now. I thought there was going to be more to this. This is for people who dont have the dexterity to drill a hole straight or put in an insert straight. I personally dont have an issue doing them especially using the special soldering iron tips that are made for doing them but I am glad someone made a tool for those people that need it.
I push inserts in about 90% of the way and then I use an old gauge pin that's larger than the insert to push it in the rest of the way. The gauge pin both gets the insert flush and acts as a heat sync to cool the insert enough to lock it in place.
Really a good way. Use an old gauge can help you clearl see the install all process, I am threaded insert nut source factory, if you need sample for new item, i can send you free sample.
I took a pin and made a step at the end in the same minor diameter of whatever size insert. I use it for the last 10%. Sharper the corner you can get, the better. Works perfect every time. You just need a different pin for each thread size.
Well done, I've been playing with inserts lately and found installing them crooked was quite easy to do. I came to UA-cam today looking for a solution just like this.
This is great for inserting into a square piece i.e. where the part itself sits square on a table. Side note: the majority of things I have ever printed need inserts added but the item doesn't sit flat on a table. Example: I just printed some DIN rail brackets. In some cases I guess the part could be held in a jig / clamp. If you are making loads and accuracy is important then yes - a clamp plus the vertical insertion tool is probably very sensible. For me personally it's a bit of a niche case. That said, it's a great idea and nicely executed!
add an adjustable stop to the bottom so that if you have a lot of inserts to install they will all be set to the same depth - great design and I will be making one myself as soon as I finish my other projects
Thanks Adam, definitely on my todo list. Your CAD abilities are far greater than mine but I can modify your files to fit the iron I have, thank you again
You should choose a very popular widely available cheap soldering iron and link it in the description, for those of us that aren’t so great at modifying the grip, also you get a small affiliate fee for all of us that bought it in return for such a great idea, seems like a win-win
so the one thing i wanted to know never gets shown i wanted to know how to make the adapter for my soldering iron the part that you use to push/heat the nuts
I used over 200 inserts of the voron recommended ones and around 200 ones from ruthex that won the strength test from cnc kitchen. I have yet to have one be of center or coming back out. I use a ts-100 soldering iron and have it set for 200 when I do abs.
Could you upload the source CAD assembly as a .step? The assembly didn't work from the .f3z, and when I tried to extract it, couldn't open the.f3d files, gave a message that I wasn't authorized to open them. Thanks!
Can't find the instructions to create the specialised tip for pressing the inserts in. They are expensive to buy commercially and hard to get. I like that he uses an inset for the contact plate and assume that the rest is turned. However, I don't own a lathe. Any idea on how I might manufacture it?
Hello Adam! Thank you for the shared it’s a wonderful design! Sadly my iron won’t fit on the tip, any design yet for larger soldering iron? Got the SREMTCH 80 W Soldering Iron Set from Amazon.
You don't need this - just press the insert in mostly straight and most of the way and then use an aluminum rod to push it in the rest of the way. That will flatten it out perfectly and cool it down as well. I've done close to a thousand inserts this way.
Not sure why you make a big deal about the soldering iron tip given any decent soldering iron will have tips designed for this purpose and presumably that's why the other soldering iron in your rig is using. That has nothing to do with this rig. I mean this is still really nice for the ability to push straight, but the tip? Seems a weird thing to focus on.
Stepper motor is a dead weight now !? Just a few years ago the Makers community had to scavenge the earth for stepper motors. Just print a container with approximate same dimensions and put sand in it as you need more or less. Keep the stepper motor in the drawer for the project that need " intelligent controlled Motion ".
What an idiotic invention, all you need is a large wooden dowel like 1/2 inch. Insert threaded insert 80% of the way in the part then use a large wood dowel that is double the diameter of the insert and press down. The dowel will make it perfectly level with the surface. Dumb invention you made.
Stop using the soldering iron all together. Just get a used glow plug from a diesel engine. Has the right form factor runs on 12v so you can just use an old power supply.
I work as an engineer. My nephew is doing work experience with me here. I saw your vid a while ago and revisited today. Had a look at the BOM and turns out I have all the parts spare! So that’s the project for tomorrow for the noobie.
Nice vid and stuff, but please see if you could find a different timelapse song or something cause that continuous clicking sound in it that sounds like it's coming from a clock or a camera shutter is really annoying to the point of getting a small headache, other than that, really nice!
even better, I have a drillpress frame for an electric drill, so will just need to 3d print a collar for the iron. (ok, I could run something up on my lathe even quicker)
I like the concept and piece. I might even attempt the build. However, you could dump the background noise, I guess some would call it music. I would have MUCH preferred your comments and NO background “music” rather than the background and your comments drowned out.
You never explained exactly where you got that "Specially machined solder iron tip" , the whole thing is kind of pointless without that "Uniquely designed solder iron tip". Lol
Hi ! really cool project ! However, i gotta ask, what is bhs and chs ? bolt head screw and countersunk head screw ? I can't find anything related to this on google, and my book about screws is in french
I have been meaning to design exactly this same thing. There are some other designs out there but they seemed a bit overcomplicated and I wanted to utilize some of the spare printer parts I have around - and this is exactly what I had in mind. definitely going to print this out. Good work! Thanks for sharing.
I wish creators would offer STEP files, not STL files... STL files are not good for sharing 3D Models. They're large.. they are a surface tessellation model and so the detail is limited to the detail that the creator exported it at, which has in some cases been quite low (and the higher the quality, the higher the size of the file). .STEP files offer a far better method, they are platform agnostic, and will work with all CAD modellers. They are Geometric models, are describe solids, and so the quality is unlimited. The size is small, in comparison. But MOST of all, STEP files are far easier tot modify, as they operate as a standard solid model within the CAD program, and can be modified the same as others. STL files can be modified, but its much harder. As they are limited in detail and tessellated the geometry isn't standard, and so modifying becomes harder. aces are defined well, and curves are particularly bad. Prusa3D now allows the use STEP files for printing.
Nice gadget. Regarding the base of the unit, I see a problem with applying inserts in the middle of larger parts due to the small size of the base. One could take a piece of the same base material to elevate the part or just make a larger base. And for inserts that need to be applied at angles, you could print some V-blocks for support at various angles like 30, 45 and 60 degrees. Also, if you don't have GT2 idlers handy GT2 gears could be used by reversing the belt.
Nice job bud, I will have a go at making this as I have most of those bits kicking about as well, I might make a counter weight though using small bearings.
For those look for parts or kits, I have the latest version as a kit on my website: vector3d.shop/products/vlmp-2-hardware-kit
Link doesn't work. I guess it didn't hold up with the test of time😥
@@NeonDreams7 new website! Vector3d.shop VLMP2 just got released!
For me, everytime I insert the threaded insert nut, I will push it inside 3/4 of its height, then flip the 3d printed part making the side on a flat table then gently apply pressure on the printed part. The threaded insert will always be perfectly straight. No failure at all and very simple
You just make the hole video useless! :D
@@hugolatra Sorry LOL
same and also many parts are not flat on the opposite side of the insert, where this wouldn't work
@@TheLordinio If you really need a linear motion part that make sure it can go down straight, try 3d printer nozzle, heat it up to a certain temperature, manually adjust the z feedrate, and manual move the nozzle down. Bomb
@@hugolatra I wish he mentioned this method in the video.
It’s still useful if you are a maker space or make little series of things for selling in etzy for example. Also people with difficulties in their ability’s could use it.
great project. if I may suggest you should add an adjustable stop so you can have good repeatability on parts where you need multiple inserts across the same plane
Had same thoughts
i am confident the thumbnail was all the description you needed, man.
you could easily add a depth stop to aid in consistency.
Great idea, nice design. Big fan of your content.
I took your idea and went a step futher, by recycling an old crappy drill press. Gutted the motor and electrics, kept the base, upright and spring return head mechanism, Adapted a clamp to hold my soldering iron and voila! A heat insert press with adjustable depth stop and spring return tri-lobe handle. Works great. Thanks for the idea. Cheers
A lot of people will be happy based on the requests from your voron build video
I actually planned to build one of those when I got hold onto some inserts for a project but never really found the motivation to actually build one - mostly because I never actually had any of the described problems of inserts pulling out again or them being so much ( or even just remotely ) off axis for them to cause a problem - I do though use the method of either inserting them into the material only 4/5 the way in using the soldering and then do the final push using a piece of metal ( like an oversized M10 Hex Bit ) that will both straighten _and_ flush it to the surface while preventing squeeze out around the perimeter or just flip the part and press it upside down on a heat resistant ( piece of aluminium ) surface if the geometry allows for it.
yeah for one or two inserts on a part this method works fine, but if you have say 10 parts that need 13 inserts each, this tool makes perfect sense and will ensure repeatable results just not gained from doing them by hand, however well calibrated your arms are lol
Professional Suggestion. Most of my customer work in this way when quantity is less. As source factory, we sue automotic install machinery to push them in bulk once. If you need thread insert nut sample, we are willing to provide.
Great project! Love the stepper motor counterweight :)
Oh I get it now. I thought there was going to be more to this. This is for people who dont have the dexterity to drill a hole straight or put in an insert straight. I personally dont have an issue doing them especially using the special soldering iron tips that are made for doing them but I am glad someone made a tool for those people that need it.
I push inserts in about 90% of the way and then I use an old gauge pin that's larger than the insert to push it in the rest of the way. The gauge pin both gets the insert flush and acts as a heat sync to cool the insert enough to lock it in place.
Really a good way. Use an old gauge can help you clearl see the install all process, I am threaded insert nut source factory, if you need sample for new item, i can send you free sample.
I took a pin and made a step at the end in the same minor diameter of whatever size insert. I use it for the last 10%. Sharper the corner you can get, the better. Works perfect every time. You just need a different pin for each thread size.
Well done, I've been playing with inserts lately and found installing them crooked was quite easy to do. I came to UA-cam today looking for a solution just like this.
This is great for inserting into a square piece i.e. where the part itself sits square on a table. Side note: the majority of things I have ever printed need inserts added but the item doesn't sit flat on a table. Example: I just printed some DIN rail brackets. In some cases I guess the part could be held in a jig / clamp. If you are making loads and accuracy is important then yes - a clamp plus the vertical insertion tool is probably very sensible. For me personally it's a bit of a niche case. That said, it's a great idea and nicely executed!
add an adjustable stop to the bottom so that if you have a lot of inserts to install they will all be set to the same depth - great design and I will be making one myself as soon as I finish my other projects
I think you should have used the name I gave it, lol. The Highly Engineered Threaded Insert Tip Setter 😉🤣😂
Need "audio ducking" for your background music when you're talking!!! Other than that, Awesome Build!!!😁👍🏻
Thanks Adam, definitely on my todo list. Your CAD abilities are far greater than mine but I can modify your files to fit the iron I have, thank you again
You should choose a very popular widely available cheap soldering iron and link it in the description, for those of us that aren’t so great at modifying the grip, also you get a small affiliate fee for all of us that bought it in return for such a great idea, seems like a win-win
You could make the head removable and make a camera jig for showing off small parts on your desk.
Brilliant! Thanks for showing off your skillz.
In case anyone else missed it, the stepper motor is just being used as a counterweight. I was so confused.
Liked-Subscribed-Notified- Great work (on the tool and the video production). Hope to see more coming!
i just used a drillpress attachment for a corded drill what i got for 18 euros aka about 19-20 dollars works just fine and has and depth stop
Just came up in my feed. This is Great! going to build it.
A hint please!? The tip? From whence does it come? Did you make it yourself on a lathe?
I just make the threads by design, it has worked for me even in the industry in jigs for the production lines,
great design 👍
thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Thanks, made one recently. Makes it a ton easier.
Very nice build project for something that I never thought I needed 😁
Your mic vs the background music is a bit off.
so the one thing i wanted to know never gets shown i wanted to know how to make the adapter for my soldering iron the part that you use to push/heat the nuts
You can repurpose cheap drill stand to do the same job.
I'm gonna need something like this for my current project
I can highly recommend it :D
@@Vector3DP time for another engineering project
i just thinking, should we buy step motor just to be weight balancer or...
thanks mate1! its help alot
I used over 200 inserts of the voron recommended ones and around 200 ones from ruthex that won the strength test from cnc kitchen. I have yet to have one be of center or coming back out. I use a ts-100 soldering iron and have it set for 200 when I do abs.
Never heard of this method, any reason you wouldn't make the wholes in the design and then just use superglue on the inserts?
Could you upload the source CAD assembly as a .step? The assembly didn't work from the .f3z, and when I tried to extract it, couldn't open the.f3d files, gave a message that I wasn't authorized to open them. Thanks!
then you can make a pro version by making it with linear rail
What's the purpose of having one/two heat set inserts permanently attached to the tool head?
It's just slightly adjustable so the tip doesn't go out the back of the insert. Not normally much of a problem though as there is normally space.
Can't find the instructions to create the specialised tip for pressing the inserts in. They are expensive to buy commercially and hard to get. I like that he uses an inset for the contact plate and assume that the rest is turned. However, I don't own a lathe. Any idea on how I might manufacture it?
Hello Adam! Thank you for the shared it’s a wonderful design!
Sadly my iron won’t fit on the tip, any design yet for larger soldering iron? Got the SREMTCH 80 W Soldering Iron Set from Amazon.
Really cool idea!
Thanks for sharing.
The best gadget!
where did you find the soldering iron tip?
Why don't you just thread a adapter that will thread into both iron and threaded inserts ?
super looks cool
You don't need this - just press the insert in mostly straight and most of the way and then use an aluminum rod to push it in the rest of the way. That will flatten it out perfectly and cool it down as well. I've done close to a thousand inserts this way.
What are those brass parts called? I need them.
Where do you get the Heat set soldering Iron tip from and which heat sets are you using, thanks Steve?
Just google 'Heat Set Insert Installation tip' and you should be able to find something suitable. The thread on mine was largely useless I found
@@Vector3DP thanks
Hello, very nice job dear, where you shared your stl please ? Thanks
Check description
i spy voron 2.4 in the back 🤓
Nice work!! It's funny the unit doesn't use any inserts..haha
I thought about, but then it would be like that plastic packaging for sharp things like scissors, that need scissors to open 😅
Pretty smart
Not sure why you make a big deal about the soldering iron tip given any decent soldering iron will have tips designed for this purpose and presumably that's why the other soldering iron in your rig is using. That has nothing to do with this rig. I mean this is still really nice for the ability to push straight, but the tip? Seems a weird thing to focus on.
Def need to make one of these and give them another crack
I dont see this really working on parts that arent flat
this popped up.... if you really want a cheat you can get cheap drill press stands online for under 20, i printed a bracket to hold the soldering iron
Its got googly eyes! So it has to be awesome! 🤪
Great!!!!!
That's amazing made!
From the thumbnail, it seemed like a buttsecks toy 😮
lemme make sure i understand, ur using a stepper for a counterweight..? xD
YUP 😅
ah i love that thumbnail. *clicks don't recommend channel*
heh i just though its CNC inserter- cause of motor on the back. lol))
That thumbnail 🙈
do you have parkinson's so you need this instad of just using your hands and a soldering iron?
Stepper motor is a dead weight now !? Just a few years ago the Makers community had to scavenge the earth for stepper motors. Just print a container with approximate same dimensions and put sand in it as you need more or less. Keep the stepper motor in the drawer for the project that need " intelligent controlled Motion ".
Music much too loud
If this doesn't get the most likes of all your videos I'm going to be very sad.
Why buy something new when you could just build it out of 3D printed parts or make an adapter for a Dremel drill press
Drill a hole in a piece of wood? Same Effect.
open mouth in thumbnail = banned channel from my recommendations
aren't you going to be breathing that plastic fumes?
What an idiotic invention, all you need is a large wooden dowel like 1/2 inch. Insert threaded insert 80% of the way in the part then use a large wood dowel that is double the diameter of the insert and press down. The dowel will make it perfectly level with the surface.
Dumb invention you made.
Stop using the soldering iron all together. Just get a used glow plug from a diesel engine. Has the right form factor runs on 12v so you can just use an old power supply.
Glow plugs are a bit too hot for this application
I'm sorry, but this is a solution for a problem that does not exist.
Nice!
Thanks :)
Holy moly, Naomi Wu!
This is awesome! I just might try this for one of our soldering iron stations...
Building stuff like this is what gets me excited about 3d printing. The utility and enhancement capabilities are just mind blowing!
I work as an engineer. My nephew is doing work experience with me here. I saw your vid a while ago and revisited today. Had a look at the BOM and turns out I have all the parts spare! So that’s the project for tomorrow for the noobie.
Nice vid and stuff, but please see if you could find a different timelapse song or something cause that continuous clicking sound in it that sounds like it's coming from a clock or a camera shutter is really annoying to the point of getting a small headache, other than that, really nice!
Literally laughed out loud at using a nema 17 as a counterweight
What's the recommended infill for the 3d printed parts?
Nice project. Those that already have a drill press could make an adapter to hold the iron paralel with the chuck, for a much simpler print/build.
even better, I have a drillpress frame for an electric drill, so will just need to 3d print a collar for the iron. (ok, I could run something up on my lathe even quicker)
I like the concept and piece. I might even attempt the build. However, you could dump the background noise, I guess some would call it music. I would have MUCH preferred your comments and NO background “music” rather than the background and your comments drowned out.
You never explained exactly where you got that "Specially machined solder iron tip" , the whole thing is kind of pointless without that "Uniquely designed solder iron tip". Lol
True. All other parts can be made without any help - just think and measure. But what about the tip???
The cheap trick of making a “funny face” on the video thumbnail…. 😞 You’re bigger than this.
You forgot to put the googly eyes on the BOM XD
Thanks a million. I appreciate this more than you know.
How much of an infill do you recommend for the Soldering Iron Grip if I use ABS or PETG?
After adding about 1000 inserts so far, I will gladly build this :D
how about adding info about the soldering iron tip itself?
I wanted to use a Drill press stand the ones where you clamp in an electric drill. But I seldom use inserts... so...
Hi ! really cool project ! However, i gotta ask, what is bhs and chs ? bolt head screw and countersunk head screw ? I can't find anything related to this on google, and my book about screws is in french
I have been meaning to design exactly this same thing. There are some other designs out there but they seemed a bit overcomplicated and I wanted to utilize some of the spare printer parts I have around - and this is exactly what I had in mind. definitely going to print this out. Good work! Thanks for sharing.
I wish creators would offer STEP files, not STL files... STL files are not good for sharing 3D Models. They're large.. they are a surface tessellation model and so the detail is limited to the detail that the creator exported it at, which has in some cases been quite low (and the higher the quality, the higher the size of the file). .STEP files offer a far better method, they are platform agnostic, and will work with all CAD modellers. They are Geometric models, are describe solids, and so the quality is unlimited. The size is small, in comparison.
But MOST of all, STEP files are far easier tot modify, as they operate as a standard solid model within the CAD program, and can be modified the same as others. STL files can be modified, but its much harder. As they are limited in detail and tessellated the geometry isn't standard, and so modifying becomes harder. aces are defined well, and curves are particularly bad.
Prusa3D now allows the use STEP files for printing.
Nice gadget. Regarding the base of the unit, I see a problem with applying inserts in the middle of larger parts due to the small size of the base. One could take a piece of the same base material to elevate the part or just make a larger base. And for inserts that need to be applied at angles, you could print some V-blocks for support at various angles like 30, 45 and 60 degrees. Also, if you don't have GT2 idlers handy GT2 gears could be used by reversing the belt.
Nice job bud, I will have a go at making this as I have most of those bits kicking about as well, I might make a counter weight though using small bearings.