The tie rod was never a problem on this design, however the bolt holding the upper control arm ball-joints, in place, has always been the real pain. This is why it is recommended to lube it even if no replacement is needed. I recommend plentiful of Mobil Synthetic Lube every 15k miles and that problem will never be a problem again. For first loosening if stuck, I recommend an air-impact hammer with a pointer chisel bit hammering the bolt with the attached (a few spins) nut so that it will not allow the chisel bit to migrate. Before doing so I recommend spraying some penetrating solution.
+A Dude I am working at this problem at the moment (At the date of this comment). My B5.5 is 15 years old and most of the items I have been replacing so far are stock parts. This section how ever is a pain in the butt. All bolts on the outer tie rod are removable as you said with lubs & PB plasters and a little bit of patience. But the actual tie rod is some pain. I am working on a solution that would involve cutting off the actual tie rod at the end of the threads before it meets the nut, and to take out he remaining bit with a reverse threaded screw remover. Hopefully would work tomorrow. Of course my new replacement outer tie rod is awaiting installation after wards.
I would stay away from cutting! My take would be to completely detach the tie rod from the steering rack and work on it on your bench. I'll look to see if I can find some photos I shot while doing that myself.
The Gospel is 1 Corinthians 15:1-4 👇 ua-cam.com/video/lbb4xwYj19g/v-deo.html Dispensational Truth, Or God's Plan and Purpose in the Ages Book from Clarence Larkin
So much hate in comments. I just did this same repair on 3b passat and this helped much. Video only shows basic overview of the job and you can easily figure out rest by yourself.
She did come apart oh so very easy. Perhaps that's a little unrealistic for most of these Passat's. But I honestly think that's besides the point. This is a well done video! Thanks for sharing!
Great video all except for the part of torque specs or in Europe Nm. Plus if im correct that axle bolt needs to be 140' lb and then 180 deg turn. Thats kind of important.
Thank you for your feedback! Your opinion and remarks are very important for us. We will take them into consideration for our next tutorial. Your advices help us and our audience very much. Best regards, Autodoc.
Im working on my passat for 5 days now and got nothing but problems , bolts breaking off and things not coming loose at all. In reality its a piece of crap to work on 😆 but its a nice car to drive though. Its already a 20 year old model but still great.
Never try to open bolts with brute force. Always use rust eating chemicals (both oil based and stuff that's meant to remove rust by soaking such as evaporust), lots of soak time and hammering action instead of brute force and the bolts will not snap. And reserve about 3 hours per big bolt for these old cars. And I think these cars are still great but the rust is just pain in the butt for repairs. If you're in hurry, consider purchasing or renting induction heater for bolts.
Is there supposed to be a snap ring between the bearing and hub? I got a new one in the kit I ordered with the bearing and hub, but don’t know where it goes. I didn’t see one when I removed the old one
@@agt155 aye now that was a different matter for sure. Whole hub off, heat guns and hammers. I since bought a pinch bolt removal tool from Laser for a tenner and used with an air chisel it works wonders on the tight ones
Thank you for the feedback! This video is considered to be an informative one, and it shows the sequence of repairs, without going into all the technical details. Best regards, Autodoc.
Totally fake, not once do we hear the guy threaten to burn the pos to the ground. Seriously though it is a very good display and gives you a good idea of whats involved. Oh and by the way the newest B5.5 is 15 years old so that tie rod bolt will be the biggest part of the job,
Thank you for your comment. We kindly ask you to clarify what exactly you didnt like in our video. Please contact our Customer Support team if you have any questions regarding the spare parst . Best Regards, Autodoc team.
@@autodocuk No offence intended, however the top tie rod bolt is nearly always next to impossible to remove due to corrosion.This is a well known issue with these vehicles in the trade.The video is very good at showing what needs to be done to change the bearing.
The video demonstrates how to do the job if the bearing was replaced last time about a year ago. If it has been there longer and previous installation didn't use copper grease for *every* bolt, expect worlds of pain to get those bolts and ball joints released.
My main problem with this video is it has nothing to do with reality. The hub assembly has been pre-loosened so he is not showing many protective, common-sense, crucial steps. In addition the music is annoying and the Granimals Spiffy-Wear is absolutely ridiculous. Watch other videos for a more realistic depiction of how this job is done.
Thank you for the feedback! The video is informative and shows only the general principles of the constitution and the operation of the car and it is in no way to be taken as a manual for repair and maintenance. The music can be turned off in the area below the video for your comfort.. Best regards, Autodoc.
Why not use a hub puller / bearing puller kit ? then you don't need to remove all those rusted bolts that would probably break and the stub axle can stay on the car while you replace bearing / hub.
Thank you for the feedback! The video is informative and shows only the general principles of the constitution and the operation of the car and it is in no way to be taken as a manual for repair and maintenance. Best Regards, Autodoc
@@autodocuk Calls it TUTORIAL, says "it is in no way to be taken as a manual for repair and maintenance" A tutorial, in education, is a method of transferring knowledge and may be used as a part of a learning process. More interactive and specific than a book or a lecture, a tutorial seeks to teach by example and supply the information to complete a certain task. No offence, but what did you expect people will use this for ? : )
@@adamkorekach9936 I did the job. The axle can be taken out without removing ball joints. Took me two pulls with a homemade slide hammer (a bolt plus two ten pound free weights) to pull the hub. Came out clean. The whole bearing was left in knuckle. Then pressed out bearing with a screw type bearing press
just did one today , whats mind blowing is there is no seal between axle and bearing , they have a weep hole at bottom of cavity to allow water and debris in and out also calliper holders do not use SS abutment clips for pads to ride on and causes rust between them and binder pads up , German engineering at its finest wha a POS
@@mantvydas8810 It depends where you live. Try doing it here in Finland where salt is used on public roads during the Winter and temperature gradients go between -30 °C during the Winter and +30 °C during the Summer. If previous install didn't use copper grease for every thread, expect lots of swearing.
Why you dosn't using torque wrench? Why you dosn't use grees for screws or nuts? Why you dosn't cleaning the wheel hub and breake disc? The show is perfect but the job?
In the perfect world where you live in heaven, the tie rod comes out as easy as it is in this video.
He must be in heaven!
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was helpful for you. Best regards, Autodoc.
The tie rod was never a problem on this design, however the bolt holding the upper control arm ball-joints, in place, has always been the real pain. This is why it is recommended to lube it even if no replacement is needed. I recommend plentiful of Mobil Synthetic Lube every 15k miles and that problem will never be a problem again. For first loosening if stuck, I recommend an air-impact hammer with a pointer chisel bit hammering the bolt with the attached (a few spins) nut so that it will not allow the chisel bit to migrate. Before doing so I recommend spraying some penetrating solution.
+A Dude I am working at this problem at the moment (At the date of this comment). My B5.5 is 15 years old and most of the items I have been replacing so far are stock parts. This section how ever is a pain in the butt.
All bolts on the outer tie rod are removable as you said with lubs & PB plasters and a little bit of patience. But the actual tie rod is some pain. I am working on a solution that would involve cutting off the actual tie rod at the end of the threads before it meets the nut, and to take out he remaining bit with a reverse threaded screw remover. Hopefully would work tomorrow. Of course my new replacement outer tie rod is awaiting installation after wards.
I would stay away from cutting! My take would be to completely detach the tie rod from the steering rack and work on it on your bench. I'll look to see if I can find some photos I shot while doing that myself.
The Gospel is 1 Corinthians 15:1-4
👇
ua-cam.com/video/lbb4xwYj19g/v-deo.html
Dispensational Truth, Or God's Plan and Purpose in the Ages
Book from Clarence Larkin
So much hate in comments. I just did this same repair on 3b passat and this helped much. Video only shows basic overview of the job and you can easily figure out rest by yourself.
We hope our videos were useful.
AUTODOC
She did come apart oh so very easy. Perhaps that's a little unrealistic for most of these Passat's. But I honestly think that's besides the point. This is a well done video! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for your comment! We are pleased to know that you liked our video.
Great video all except for the part of torque specs or in Europe Nm. Plus if im correct that axle bolt needs to be 140' lb and then 180 deg turn. Thats kind of important.
Thank you for your feedback! Your opinion and remarks are very important for us. We will take them into consideration for our next tutorial. Your advices help us and our audience very much. Best regards, Autodoc.
And you’re not supposed to use an air impact on that stretch bolt!
Most parts I know how many ft-lbs just from years of experience. The only thing I'll use a torque wrench on is installing new head bolts.
Im working on my passat for 5 days now and got nothing but problems , bolts breaking off and things not coming loose at all.
In reality its a piece of crap to work on 😆 but its a nice car to drive though. Its already a 20 year old model but still great.
Never try to open bolts with brute force. Always use rust eating chemicals (both oil based and stuff that's meant to remove rust by soaking such as evaporust), lots of soak time and hammering action instead of brute force and the bolts will not snap. And reserve about 3 hours per big bolt for these old cars. And I think these cars are still great but the rust is just pain in the butt for repairs.
If you're in hurry, consider purchasing or renting induction heater for bolts.
Very nice video and very clean job!
If you ever want to use my B5.5 Passat in one of your videos let me know 🤙🤙. Just tuned 166K miles
Is there supposed to be a snap ring between the bearing and hub? I got a new one in the kit I ordered with the bearing and hub, but don’t know where it goes. I didn’t see one when I removed the old one
Usually, a circlip comes with the bearing, if not, you can use the old one.
AUTODOC
I know its 11 months ago but you probably figured out you needed the 82mm bearing and not the 75mm
@autodocuk why isn't it shown in the video
u make it look tooo easy ,,can we have a few grunts moans for realism seriously great vid
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Right can we get a few god damn its and tool throws
you make it look so easy lol .....good vid very helpful
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Great video very good information.
Anyone ever seen the pinch-bolt come out with a tap from a 12 oz hammer?
yup, I always coat the bolt with ceramic grease then it comes out easy as pie next time
@@TheBlaert How about the first time you took it out?
@@agt155 aye now that was a different matter for sure. Whole hub off, heat guns and hammers. I since bought a pinch bolt removal tool from Laser for a tenner and used with an air chisel it works wonders on the tight ones
All is fine, but why not show how the inner bearing race removed from the hub? (Sorry for the English through an interpreter)
Thank you for the feedback! This video is considered to be an informative one, and it shows the sequence of repairs, without going into all the technical details. Best regards, Autodoc.
Totally fake, not once do we hear the guy threaten to burn the pos to the ground. Seriously though it is a very good display and gives you a good idea of whats involved. Oh and by the way the newest B5.5 is 15 years old so that tie rod bolt will be the biggest part of the job,
Thank you for your comment.
We kindly ask you to clarify what exactly you didnt like in our video.
Please contact our Customer Support team if you have any questions regarding the spare parst .
Best Regards,
Autodoc team.
@@autodocuk No offence intended, however the top tie rod bolt is nearly always next to impossible to remove due to corrosion.This is a well known issue with these vehicles in the trade.The video is very good at showing what needs to be done to change the bearing.
The video demonstrates how to do the job if the bearing was replaced last time about a year ago. If it has been there longer and previous installation didn't use copper grease for *every* bolt, expect worlds of pain to get those bolts and ball joints released.
Goob job of course! But I prefer to use WD-40 before screw any bolts. Ussually its rusted!
autodoc.co.uk OK!
How about making the videos with tools that u can buy on the cheap. I don't have a press.
We will take note of your advice!
Stay tuned with us for new tutorials.
We wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
AUTODOC
My main problem with this video is it has nothing to do with reality. The hub assembly has been pre-loosened so he is not showing many protective, common-sense, crucial steps. In addition the music is annoying and the Granimals Spiffy-Wear is absolutely ridiculous. Watch other videos for a more realistic depiction of how this job is done.
Thank you for the feedback! The video is informative and shows only the general principles of the constitution and the operation of the car and it is in no way to be taken as a manual for repair and maintenance. The music can be turned off in the area below the video for your comfort.. Best regards, Autodoc.
Why not use a hub puller / bearing puller kit ? then you don't need to remove all those rusted bolts that would probably break and the stub axle can stay on the car while you replace bearing / hub.
Thank you for the feedback! The video is informative and shows only the general principles of the constitution and the operation of the car and it is in no way to be taken as a manual for repair and maintenance. Best Regards, Autodoc
@@autodocuk
Calls it TUTORIAL, says "it is in no way to be taken as a manual for repair and maintenance"
A tutorial, in education, is a method of transferring knowledge and may be used as a part of a learning process. More interactive and specific than a book or a lecture, a tutorial seeks to teach by example and supply the information to complete a certain task.
No offence, but what did you expect people will use this for ? : )
Isn’t the axle shaft in the way for a bearing puller?
@@badactor3323 Probably need to yank the axle.
@@adamkorekach9936 I did the job. The axle can be taken out without removing ball joints. Took me two pulls with a homemade slide hammer (a bolt plus two ten pound free weights) to pull the hub. Came out clean. The whole bearing was left in knuckle. Then pressed out bearing with a screw type bearing press
Dude could d this wearing a white tuxedo and still come out spotless
just did one today , whats mind blowing is there is no seal between axle and bearing , they have a weep hole at bottom of cavity to allow water and debris in and out also calliper holders do not use SS abutment clips for pads to ride on and causes rust between them and binder pads up , German engineering at its finest wha a POS
is it just me who thinks he forgets the lock washer before mounting the wheel hub?
Please specify the time of the fragment in the video.
Where do you think a lock washer should be used?
Saftey glasses dude!!!!
Здравей и точно онзи дългия болт 🔩 не може с лекота да го извадиш. Точно него аз го режа и пробивам.
Ok now do it with 20 years of rust on it !
Been doing that recently, came out pretty easy all things considered
@@mantvydas8810 It depends where you live. Try doing it here in Finland where salt is used on public roads during the Winter and temperature gradients go between -30 °C during the Winter and +30 °C during the Summer. If previous install didn't use copper grease for every thread, expect lots of swearing.
@@MikkoRantalainen salt is hella abused here in Lithuania
Why you dosn't using torque wrench? Why you dosn't use grees for screws or nuts? Why you dosn't cleaning the wheel hub and breake disc? The show is perfect but the job?
Thank you for the feedback! This video is familiarized and some obvious technical nuances have been missed to save time.Best regards, Autodoc.