Hello...I want to PRAISE YOU. Bought your tool 7 months ago as I am doing a 66 Mustang Restore. I finally got to use the tool. 10 minutes, they were in !!! Thank you thank you !!!
Thank you very much for showing the tool to make this easier. I welded one up out of 3/4 inch square tubing and installed my spring safely in about 2 minutes. Save a lot of frustrations I can tell. Thank you very very much for this!
Ha I just wanted to let you know your video was very helpful. Thank god there are guys like you who make them so it is easier for use gear heads to work on our cars. I even made the tool . Thanks again. John
I'm always amazed at a simple function like this where the Engineers spend months getting all the slots and hole right while testing which thickness of rods keep the tension until the trunk lock gets opened. At what point did humans get so lazy in the early 1950's we needed the lid to rise up on its own .
Nice build and video. the extra notches are for the fiberglass wing Mach 1's had which added a lot of weight to the deck lid. The torsion rods also came with a wire clip which held the rods together to stop them from vibrating. never seen the hose before but it would work nicely. The clip is available as a reproduction piece at most mustang/couger shops or online.
We have parted out over 1,000 Classic Cougars and have not seen an actual clip (we have seen a few where it looks like someone tried to use a piece of tie wire to tie the bars together to stop the rattle). Most Mustang shops sell the same reproduction we sell which is a reproduction of the 64-68 anti-rattler, Ford Part # C5ZZ-6545028: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/d310.html
Great video, Andrew. After watching, I was able to adjust my torsion bars in short order! Love the WCCC videos! BTW, I love your photography. I have two WCCC calendars and they are works of Cougar art!
The trunk lid torsion bars on my '64 Comet convertible are original, located in the weakest slot and my trunk lid would slowly go down when I opened it. I bought the new improved version of this tool to relocate them to the middle slot but I had to modify the tool: my torsion bars are thicker. Maybe it's because mine are factory original? So, I drilled out the hole and fork in the tool so they're a little wider and had to shorten the fork on it 3/4 of an inch as it was otherwise hitting trunk components.
Hey, I received mine a few weeks ago but I have a question. Would it/is it easier to do with the hood lid off ? Basically. keep the hinges on ...I am think less pressure and its out of the way ..thoughts?
Actually yes, that would probably be easier! Keep in mind you may have to adjust the hinges a little once you put the trunk lid on, to make sure it sits flush with the body.
No idea on that car, but I'd think that welding wouldn't work too well on a spring steel part like that. I'd go to your local junkyard and try to find a used one.
+West Coast Classic Cougar , GM doesn't make it so if I can't find it at a junkyard… The trunk feels "heavy "I guess because the other one is forcing the trunk down… What if I took out the other one... To make the trunk much more "light "
Here you go: www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/trunktool2.html This is the new version of the tool, a little different but works just as well. You need a socket wrench / breaker bar to use it, as shown in the pictures.
***** Thanks! The wiring clipped to the package tray is part of the taillight wiring harness. It comes from the front passenger side and goes over to the driver's side in the trunk to connect to all the relays and junk back there. I used that black plastic "sleeve" because my original cloth webbing was shot. -Andrew
Here you go! secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/trunktool2.html The design has changed a little since we did this video, you need a 3/8" socket wrench or breaker bar to use the new version. It works the same way though.
West Coast Classic Cougar! Here's a link to the tool (it looks a little different now, you need a ratchet or breaker bar to use it): secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/trunktool2.html And here's a link to some used '67-'70 Cougar (not Mustang) trunk torsion rods: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/ttbars.html
Or Mustang, or probably lots of other Ford vehicles of the era. Just look in your trunk and see if you have the same type of arrangement with the torsion rods.
THANK YOU !!! I saw you were out and was hoping it wasn't a FOREVER thing ...you ARE the only ones who have this...cornered the market :-) I signed up to get notified
I'm always amazed at a simple function like this where the Engineers spend months getting all the slots and hole right while testing which thickness of rods keep the tension until the trunk lock gets opened. At what point did humans get so lazy in the early 1950's we needed the lid to rise up on its own .
Amazes me with all this engineering energy they didn't see fit to add 1/4 to the rod length so the tool will stay on without snapping away and ripping your lips off - or damaging new paint due to it taking a thousand attempts because of the stupid slightly too short rod end. That extra RCH of length would make this almost a quick enjoyable job, rather than an entire afternoon fabricating a precise tolerance tool (if the hole and slot ain't perfectly tight and apart, it ain't gunna work) and then all the violence and cursing. That extra length wouldn't interfere with dead bodies in the truck or anything like that. Imagine trying to stuff a big heavy body back there if the hood didn't auto open! The guy who designed this is probably dead by now - otherwise, would gladly drive all the way to Motown just to kick him in the balls for his obvious rod design oversight. Mine is a 62 Comet - slightly different hinge geometry than cougar but I suspect the same rod length frustration exists for you guys. But, this is a very clever design for sure, I must say. And, awesome video, very helpful - thanks!
Hello...I want to PRAISE YOU. Bought your tool 7 months ago as I am doing a 66 Mustang Restore. I finally got to use the tool. 10 minutes, they were in !!! Thank you thank you !!!
Thank you very much for showing the tool to make this easier. I welded one up out of 3/4 inch square tubing and installed my spring safely in about 2 minutes. Save a lot of frustrations I can tell. Thank you very very much for this!
Hey, you learn something new every day, thank-you for sharing!
Ha I just wanted to let you know your video was very helpful. Thank god there are guys like you who make them so it is easier for use gear heads to work on our cars. I even made the tool . Thanks again. John
Glad this was helpful!
I'm always amazed at a simple function like this where the Engineers spend months getting all the slots and hole right while testing which thickness of rods keep the tension until the trunk lock gets opened. At what point did humans get so lazy in the early 1950's we needed the lid to rise up on its own .
Nice build and video. the extra notches are for the fiberglass wing Mach 1's had which added a lot of weight to the deck lid. The torsion rods also came with a wire clip which held the rods together to stop them from vibrating. never seen the hose before but it would work nicely. The clip is available as a reproduction piece at most mustang/couger shops or online.
We have parted out over 1,000 Classic Cougars and have not seen an actual clip (we have seen a few where it looks like someone tried to use a piece of tie wire to tie the bars together to stop the rattle). Most Mustang shops sell the same reproduction we sell which is a reproduction of the 64-68 anti-rattler, Ford Part # C5ZZ-6545028: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/d310.html
Great video, Andrew. After watching, I was able to adjust my torsion bars in short order! Love the WCCC videos! BTW, I love your photography. I have two WCCC calendars and they are works of Cougar art!
Mark Jones Thanks Mark! Appreciate your kind words!
Looks like the same mechanism, or very similar, set-up for late 60s era Chevy's. Excellent video, thanks!
Great video, saved me a ton of time. Thanks!
If you have a large channel lock pliers you can use the slot as the hole in the tool.
That's exactly what I did some years ago.
How about a video illustrating how to install the first rod?
thanks and sorry for all the questions
The trunk lid torsion bars on my '64 Comet convertible are original, located in the weakest slot and my trunk lid would slowly go down when I opened it. I bought the new improved version of this tool to relocate them to the middle slot but I had to modify the tool: my torsion bars are thicker. Maybe it's because mine are factory original? So, I drilled out the hole and fork in the tool so they're a little wider and had to shorten the fork on it 3/4 of an inch as it was otherwise hitting trunk components.
just by the way the 2 pictures showing which rod is which both say different things. The second one is correct
\
Thanks and great video. I think I will make that tool myself using a bracket as I have two springs to replace and vice grips are getting in the way.
Im going to try a large screwdriver and zip ties.....
Hey, I received mine a few weeks ago but I have a question. Would it/is it easier to do with the hood lid off ? Basically. keep the hinges on ...I am think less pressure and its out of the way ..thoughts?
Actually yes, that would probably be easier! Keep in mind you may have to adjust the hinges a little once you put the trunk lid on, to make sure it sits flush with the body.
Very good explanation ,,, Many Thanks
Thanks for the info… My bar broke on a 2007 Malibu. Call the dealer they don't have it I was wondering if I could just weld it?
No idea on that car, but I'd think that welding wouldn't work too well on a spring steel part like that. I'd go to your local junkyard and try to find a used one.
+West Coast Classic Cougar , GM doesn't make it so if I can't find it at a junkyard… The trunk feels "heavy "I guess because the other one is forcing the trunk down… What if I took out the other one... To make the trunk much more "light "
scratched the paint, had to remove the speaker, needed a special tool. what a shoemaker's job.
wonder can you replace these and just use the struts on the newer cars.
Probably, but of course that requires some customizing / hole drilling / etc
West Coast Classic Cougar damn nevermind guess I'll just go this route.
I would also like to know where you would get that tool and also know what it is called thank you
Here you go: www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/trunktool2.html
This is the new version of the tool, a little different but works just as well. You need a socket wrench / breaker bar to use it, as shown in the pictures.
Where u get that tool from
We have the updated version of this tool listed on our website: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/trunktool2.html
Boy does the car look nice! :D
Whats the wire loom under the rear deck? Is it for the speakers?
***** Thanks! The wiring clipped to the package tray is part of the taillight wiring harness. It comes from the front passenger side and goes over to the driver's side in the trunk to connect to all the relays and junk back there. I used that black plastic "sleeve" because my original cloth webbing was shot. -Andrew
What is the name of the torsion tool?
Here is the listing for that tool on our website: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/trunktool2.html (updated edition)
Will the tool work for 63 impala or 84 opds cutlass supreme
where can i find that tool?? what is it called?? i need to change my rods
Here you go! secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/trunktool2.html The design has changed a little since we did this video, you need a 3/8" socket wrench or breaker bar to use the new version. It works the same way though.
You don't scratch the paint by protecting the surfaces first with duct tape ...
where do you get that tool from and where can you buy them rods?
West Coast Classic Cougar! Here's a link to the tool (it looks a little different now, you need a ratchet or breaker bar to use it): secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/trunktool2.html
And here's a link to some used '67-'70 Cougar (not Mustang) trunk torsion rods: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/ttbars.html
is that only for the cougar? I wonder
Or Mustang, or probably lots of other Ford vehicles of the era. Just look in your trunk and see if you have the same type of arrangement with the torsion rods.
Awesome!
U DA MAN,Have a 69 Coronet Thax dude
Looks great ...only problem is NO ONE has the tool !!!
Except us! s.cougparts.com/12210
(Looks like we're out right now but should be getting more soon)
THANK YOU !!! I saw you were out and was hoping it wasn't a FOREVER thing ...you ARE the only ones who have this...cornered the market :-) I signed up to get notified
thank you so much
Thank you. Turns out the previous owner installed them wrong .
I'm always amazed at a simple function like this where the Engineers spend months getting all the slots and hole right while testing which thickness of rods keep the tension until the trunk lock gets opened. At what point did humans get so lazy in the early 1950's we needed the lid to rise up on its own .
Amazes me with all this engineering energy they didn't see fit to add 1/4 to the rod length so the tool will stay on without snapping away and ripping your lips off - or damaging new paint due to it taking a thousand attempts because of the stupid slightly too short rod end. That extra RCH of length would make this almost a quick enjoyable job, rather than an entire afternoon fabricating a precise tolerance tool (if the hole and slot ain't perfectly tight and apart, it ain't gunna work) and then all the violence and cursing. That extra length wouldn't interfere with dead bodies in the truck or anything like that. Imagine trying to stuff a big heavy body back there if the hood didn't auto open! The guy who designed this is probably dead by now - otherwise, would gladly drive all the way to Motown just to kick him in the balls for his obvious rod design oversight. Mine is a 62 Comet - slightly different hinge geometry than cougar but I suspect the same rod length frustration exists for you guys. But, this is a very clever design for sure, I must say. And, awesome video, very helpful - thanks!