Two days of testing Brilliance Laser Inks
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
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This video is solely about testing the Brilliance Laser Inks. During two full days of testing I had great success with both the Monport 60W CO2 and the Comgrow 10W diode. While it is not marketed to the diode industry as of yet. You can expect that to change in the near future. This product is the best thing I used for marking metals. I'm so glad I tried it on the Monport CO2 60W. Once I had it, I had to try to get some success with the diode, too. Low and behold... it worked.
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Thank you for this thorough test and explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
I cannot wait to get some of this stuff to test it out it seems so much easier than all the other options
thank you .keep them videos coming
More to come!
Thanks for the info and the channel hobo. Have you tested this product on any other metals?
@@jimmorgan7765 I have only used it on stainless. At the moment, that is the only metal I'm needing mark in the shop.
Those CO2 images are nice. Great video 👍
They turned out very nice, but the biggest selling point for me is how easy the prep and clean-up are. It's crazy easy.
great job!
Thanks!
Thank You!
I wonder how well it holds up after dishwasher? Had a few of the other marking sprays that I thought would last in the dishwasher. couldn't scrub the mark off but faded in the dishwasher.
I found out yesterday that Omtech now has a laser ink spray as well. $39.99 a 13oz can. I wanted to try it, but every time I check, it is sold out. I have a large order coming where I need to black mark aluminum. Aluminum will not black mark with out a spray. I have a small can of Brilliance. CerMark is just way too high.
Since they have a formula coming out that is made specially for aluminum, I don't know how well this will work on it.
What about trying it on wood versus powdered thermal set paint.
I'm not familiar with powdered thermal set paint, I'm guessing it is similar to or another name for powder coatings. The powder coatings I am somewhat familiar with. They work differently than the marking spray. The powder coatings work with lower power settings on the laser. Usually about half the power needed to engrave the wood. The powders are acrylic based. The laser is used to melt and fuse the powder to the surface. The laser marking spray for metals work differently. The power needed to get them to work would be too high to be effective on a wood surface. The high power needed is the reason the marking sprays are not always successful when used with a diode. The marking inks used on metals and ceramics usually require the presence of Titanium Dioxide, Zinc or Iron Oxide. These metals interact with the laser at a high heat to create a permanent mark on the surface. I'm no expert on either subject or have had professional training with either. These are just observations I've made in the past few months.
The Brilliance spray is absolutely awesome! But I have a bit of a dilemma, I thought I saw / heard you say you had even used it on glass. I can’t find it anywhere to confirm it. Am I just imagining things??
I tried it on a throw away glass jar, lasermatic Mk2 @ 10W, basic fill, 700mm/sec, 100% pwr, single pass. The results were incredible considering it was just a test & mostly a guess at the settings.
Someone mentioned in one of the lives they used it on glass. I have not tried it yet. I don't know that it will work on glass. But with my 10W, I got my best results at 900 mm/m and 100% power on stainless steel.
@@HoboWithWood thanks. I forgot about the live streams. That is probably where I thot I heard it. I’m apparently running a little slower but loving the results on stainless. Clean up is so so easy. Im still fiddling with masking tape with glass. I thot I might get black results on the glass but it was nice frosty. You’ll have to try Brilliance on glass if you can find the time. Thanks again!
Merry Christmas.
Great video! Thank you. This is a bit off topic, I have an Xtool 20-watt laser and i noticed you have your laser machine on a foldable table. I was concerned that my foldable table would shake/move
too much with my machine.
I've been using my lasers this way since 06/2022 and not had a problem. 🤷
I have a D-1 10watt. I have mine on a round outside patio table. The ones where the legs go inward to the center then up. The legs are just shaped aluminum tubes. If you've ever had one, you would understand how shaky it is. I have had no problems having my D-1 on it.
Thanks for the info and the video. Have you tested this product on any other metals?
I am only working with Stainless Steel in the shop at this time.
And a toe??
Yup! That's when it's really good. Siskel and Ebert were known for "two thumbs up," so when I really like something, it gets "two thumbs up and a toe."
curious as to the settings that you ended up with on YOUR laser
On the Monport 60W CO2 I used 50mm/s with max power 70% min power 63% The Comgrow Z1 10W diode I used 30 mm/s and 90% power.
Did you defocus for this or no ?
I did not. I'm loving this stuff. The clean-up is so easy. It's amazing.
I'm a little disappointed that you only tested stainless since you can mark it without the spray. I want to get some of this stuff but I don't know if it works on brass with a diode laser.
Since I've only been doing this for a few months, I learn from my viewers often. And when I do I acknowledge them and send them something in return for helping me further my learning experience with lasers. Please share with me how you mark the highly reflective surface of polished stainless steel without coating it? Is there any danger of damage to your lens or laser from reflections? What power laser, power settings, and speed are you using to accomplish this? How many passes? Still learning. Please share. If you'd like to donate some brass for testing I'll be glad to do that for you. I do not work with brass and have none at my disposal. Better yet, simply sign up as a Patron at patreon.com/hobowithwood and I'll be glad to make the necessary purchases to test the materials requested.
@@HoboWithWood I have only done brushed surfaces myself (stainless tumblers and the like) with my 10 watt ortur, but have seen other videos where they address the potential laser damage with a simple sharpie on the polished surfaces. You can get a pretty dark mark without the coating but it doesn't compete with that spray. On the brushed stainless, however, using speeds between 400 mm per minute to 2000 mm per minute., At powers between 20 and 100%, I get a variety of colors from golds to blues to black. I have some stainless flat pieces that I've been meaning to polish and experiment with but haven't got to it yet. Also my brass experiments have just been with like $7 pieces of brass you get at hobby lobby in small sheets. I have had some limited success with cold galvanizing spray, but I'm hoping to see if the brilliance is better.
I'll go by Hobby Lobby tomorrow and see about getting a small piece of brass.
@@HoboWithWood sweet!
@@HoboWithWood Also I just want to add that I just completed a bunch of tests on polished 304, and while I can get all the pretty oxidation colors, black seems to be harder to achieve than with a matte finish.
$54 for a 12oz can, $35 for a 2oz can. $70 for the Red (Copper Tone) 12oz can. Are you kidding me.
Compare it to the prices of CerMark (12oz. $80-$100). This stuff is a bargain. Plus you don't have to purchase any additional cleaning solutions to use after marking. The time saved. The money saved. This stuff is a steal if you are having to mark things often. If you are a hobbyist, it may not be worth the investment. But if you need to mark a dozen Yeti tumblers for a customer, you can spray them and mark them in about the same amount of time as it takes just to prep them using other methods. Time is money. And you can provide the customer with their product same day. That's hard to do using paints, cold galvanizing compound or dry moly. If you haven't looked at buying and laser marking inks before, it can be shocking. But believe me, this is the best deal I found in nearly 7 months of experimenting. The ease in clean-up alone is worth half it's price.
The cans last longer than you think. Once you start selling products, it'll pay for itself.