Turning and milling operations to make an arbor with a 3MT shank and 27mm nose. The material used is 4140 steel that was scavenged from a scrapped hydraulic piston rod.
I started my apprenticeship in the late 60s. We were taught that the Unified system was replacing the Whitworth system of threads, the car manufacturers in the US, Canada and Britain were adopting UNS. In the end, the Metric system prevailed. So I'm surprised that you still use NS taps, unless there is more to the American threads than I understand. Not a complaint. But you do some very nice work, Alan.
Thanks for your feedback Bill. When I started working on cars as a teenager in the early 1970's, Unified threads were the norm in locally (Australian) manufactured cars but Whitworth threads were still common in plumbing and general hardware products. Metric threads were common in imported vehicles and starting to became more common in other domains. So I have worked with all three systems and have a good coverage of taps and dies for them. I have also worked with other metric thread systems eg BA, and pre-ISO JIS (they are found in pre-1967 Japanese cars and motorcycles). When no other factors apply, my preference is to work with ISO metric threads especially when using my lathe as it has a metric lead screw. But I also have quite a large range of imperial socket head screws (an auction purchase years ago) and prefer to use them rather than buying new metric items. Cheers, Alan.
Question Allen. As a hobby machinist, somehow, I know not to oil the tapershanks before using. However, just how clean should they be? Example, if I have a small film of oil on my hand and I wipe off the tapershank to remove any debris, would that have a detrimental effect on the tapershank holding still, or should I use a cleaning solvent to clean it every time? Thanks in advance.
Well, I'm a hobby machinist as well and can only comment based on my experience. I have no training or credentials to support my opinion and, for context, my hobby activities rarely generate any heavy machine or tool loads. The only time I have observed slippage in a MT shank is when I started using a 30mm twist drill with a 3MT shank. That occurred because I did not preload the the drill in the socket with an axial tap from a copper hammer. Now to your question Stephen, I wipe the MT shank before use with the "clean" rag currently in my pocket and then with a wiped (but unwashed) hand. When returning the tool to storage I apply some Inox MX3 (similar to WD40) to the shank. I probably should be more rigorous and disciplined about this, but that is my approach and it has worked for me - so far :) Thanks for watching.
I used a sine bar to set the angle of the lathe compound/top slide. The angle resulted from the thickness of the gauge block stack under one end of the bar and could be adjusted by varying this thickness.
Alan - Well Done . Two Thumbs Up . -- Jim
Thanks Jim - the project was made easier by your compound rest sine bar :)
Cheers.
Great job mate
Thanks Matty. I expect you to give Big C a kick in the nuts, and I'm looking forward to your next video - it'll be a sweet win. Cheers.
I started my apprenticeship in the late 60s. We were taught that the Unified system was replacing the Whitworth system of threads, the car manufacturers in the US, Canada and Britain were adopting UNS. In the end, the Metric system prevailed. So I'm surprised that you still use NS taps, unless there is more to the American threads than I understand. Not a complaint. But you do some very nice work, Alan.
Thanks for your feedback Bill. When I started working on cars as a teenager in the early 1970's, Unified threads were the norm in locally (Australian) manufactured cars but Whitworth threads were still common in plumbing and general hardware products. Metric threads were common in imported vehicles and starting to became more common in other domains. So I have worked with all three systems and have a good coverage of taps and dies for them. I have also worked with other metric thread systems eg BA, and pre-ISO JIS (they are found in pre-1967 Japanese cars and motorcycles). When no other factors apply, my preference is to work with ISO metric threads especially when using my lathe as it has a metric lead screw. But I also have quite a large range of imperial socket head screws (an auction purchase years ago) and prefer to use them rather than buying new metric items.
Cheers, Alan.
Nice work Alan, enjoyed the build, cheers!
Thank you. It was an interesting project with a couple of "firsts" for me.
Cheers.
Question Allen. As a hobby machinist, somehow, I know not to oil the tapershanks before using. However, just how clean should they be? Example, if I have a small film of oil on my hand and I wipe off the tapershank to remove any debris, would that have a detrimental effect on the tapershank holding still, or should I use a cleaning solvent to clean it every time? Thanks in advance.
Well, I'm a hobby machinist as well and can only comment based on my experience. I have no training or credentials to support my opinion and, for context, my hobby activities rarely generate any heavy machine or tool loads. The only time I have observed slippage in a MT shank is when I started using a 30mm twist drill with a 3MT shank. That occurred because I did not preload the the drill in the socket with an axial tap from a copper hammer. Now to your question Stephen, I wipe the MT shank before use with the "clean" rag currently in my pocket and then with a wiped (but unwashed) hand. When returning the tool to storage I apply some Inox MX3 (similar to WD40) to the shank. I probably should be more rigorous and disciplined about this, but that is my approach and it has worked for me - so far :)
Thanks for watching.
So thats a dedicated angle setting jig, right not adjustable, just for the MT3
I used a sine bar to set the angle of the lathe compound/top slide. The angle resulted from the thickness of the gauge block stack under one end of the bar and could be adjusted by varying this thickness.
Nice job. You can be proud of that.
Thank you.