Swing Arm Bearings & Head Race Install
Вставка
- Опубліковано 2 бер 2023
- In this video, I show you how to install the upper and lower swing arm bearings, and head steering races. I'll walk you through creating your own custom press tool to perform these jobs and show you which methods work and which techniques don't.
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I bought the K4 1000. 😊 Mat Mladin championship edition blue and white. Sold my K5 750 unfortunately, but stumbled upon a 40k miles K4. I can't complain. What a monster.
Whoowaa.. big boys bike.. haha. I've been thinking about a 1000.. but just don't want to give up Sexy Lucy Lou... Maybe I'll build one..
It felt similar just messing around town, but give it full gas and it pulls like a freight train and is so stable. Just a slip on and exhaust valve delete with stock filter.
Good work James.
Hey what's going on Ken! Thanks brother.. Yeah I'm dismantling my bike now.. takes a bit longer when your recording everything and trying not to have hours of footage to edit..
The Hardest and most time consuming part at this point is tagging the wiring harness connectors so it's quicker on the assembly side..
Other things to consider is how I'm going to hang the wiring harness.. I would like something a little more elegant than zip tie.. lol
Just would like to ask a quick question involving the dreading c28 code on the gsxr 600 06-07 model….. just need to know when installing the STVA what does the secondary butterflies look like fully closed. Is it when they are completely closed flat or just above the hole inside the throttle bodies
How do you get swingarm bearings out if you don't have a bearing press tool
I got you covered in part one brother. Here you go ua-cam.com/video/34BF2fJDUUc/v-deo.html
I’ve already fitted the STVA with the butterflies wide open…. Just need to know what they look like in the fully closed position so I can set the STPS to the specified values of ohms and I’m not sure what fully closed looks like 👍
Fully closed then install the STVA..
Here you go
ua-cam.com/video/wfuXw0nhwh8/v-deo.htmlsi=Mx64rKYg6X3JqUsz
Thanks for getting that video over to me when fully open I’m getting 4.8 ohms but when fully closed I’m getting round about 4 ohms and when adjusting the STPS it doesn’t seem to move the ohms down or up I think the STPS is knackered would this be correct because I’ve looked at the little grooves inside the STPS and they look butchered. Can the STPS be replaced on its own without replacing the STVA
@@nickymaynard1711 So I have a few videos on the TPS and STPS (Links below). The Value for both is around 1.8k starting to 4.8k WOT and both TPSs are the same part, so they are interchangeable. The Suzuki manual says the starting value is .06K ohm but it is incorrect, I've tested a few and was never able to see that value.. so that's a misprint and you can find that on the forums as well,
Also, take notice of the harness connectors for each, one is grey and one is black.. be sure to return them to the correct TPS because the connectors will reach each other.. did that one time and it took me a minute to figure out why the bike ran like shit.. I plugged the TPS connector into the STPS and vs, versa..haha..
ua-cam.com/video/11rjv4g-euI/v-deo.htmlsi=IrmmB_HHVXTKYQFN
ua-cam.com/video/bEPSLDCzemI/v-deo.htmlsi=ANPYamQWeyTinnH0
@@TheChemistDIY thanks for the reply I must have confused the situation…. I haven’t touched the TPS. I’ve only removed the actuator and the STPS. I’ve fitted the actuator to the bike using your PDF file with the secondary butterflies in the wide open position, fitted the STPS by putting the screw in but not tightening. Connected the multimeter to the yellow and black wires like it states I’m getting fully open plates readings correct but when manually closing the butterflies with the STPS connected the ohms don’t really move down much. So I’ve adjusted the STPS and still don’t go down enough. So I’ve tested the ECU and it’s got the correct readings. I’ve come to the conclusion that the STPS is broken because inside the circle piece it looks like the little grooved pieces have been ground down…. So when I’m adjusting it I think the rod is not engaged inside the STPS. I think this might be my problem and need to replace the STPS. Can this be done without replacing the actuator aswell? Sorry to keep messaging you… I really do appreciate your time. I’ll link a photo to show you the inside circle piece on my STPS
@@TheChemistDIY ua-cam.com/users/shorts_pO5CTxQIjU?si=Zfus3vW20fMJR5rO
Hey!
Which brand engine is more durable (bulletproof).. Suzuki, Yamaha, Honda, kawasaki?
I don't think anyone can answer this question. You just can't say which one breaks down more and which doesn't without historical tracking.
Then there are the years to consider. All bikes could have done poorly just in one year say do to a manufacturer defect for example but was later fixed.
What you need to do is pick a year that you are interested in, say 2005 and look up the consumer report for your manufacturer list for know issues. But even that results are going to very.
I've had my GSXR for over 12 years now and just about fixed everything on it except the engine but that all comes down to proper maintenance and your riding and handling. I don't dog my bike because I appreciate it.
During my first years of riding is was learning how to ride and thus learning how to shift.. within no time, because I was experimenting with clutchless shifting I blew the tranny and replaced the entire engine/tranny assembly because it was cheaper and easier to fix the issue of down time. With 98k on the clock at the time, the engine was still good and still sits in my garage as a backup. So Riding and handling does have a role.
Wish I could answer that question for you but it's not an easy one since there are many factors to consider and with different manufacturers thrown into the mix your now comparing Apples to Oranges.
Aye man, I need help with my 2003 gsx-r600 please help. Anyway to contact you?
Shoot me an email at James morenojr@gmail.com.. will hook up there
James, find yourself a good K3 K4 1000. Everything is better engine, chassis. You will thank me later. Its just like working on the K4 K5 750.
What Up Ken... Hey funny that you mentioned this.. I was on offer up, just window shopping, and came across a K5 1000, all broken down to just parts and rolling chassis..(no engine). I was like... hmmm! .. I'm pretty sure I could get that thing looking like new for under $1000
@The Chemist Great platform K5. A real weapon. I can tell you that the K3/4 is excellent. Do some reading and talk to those that have owned. K3/4 keeps getting mentioned as one of the favourites. K5/K6 blistering fast and lightest of the GSXR 1k, but feels less stable. Depends what you want. Our K5 750 are really stable. K3K4 that same feel but better. Either way is a win.
James. How's the 750 going?
K4 Dynoed 151hp 77tq slip on only.
988cc is an amazing engine.
How are you feeling James? Do you use WhatsApp?
Man thank you so much for making these videos, I really appreciate it. I'll be replacing all my bearings at some point in the future and this video will be invaluable info.
It's so great to see people still showing love to these older bikes.