Are Catch Cans really worth it?
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- Опубліковано 4 вер 2024
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Maintain your equipment? What?? Responsibilitie? What?
Yep. Helps everytime.
That's for overachievers!
And then there's the large population of guys who think it's a flex to brag about the lack of maintenance they do.
It makes me feel old af seeing that guys with names like "Mayson" are now fully grown and know more about trucks than I do lol. Good stuff.
Yup. Got “Aidan, Cayden & Braiden” showing us what’s up these days 😂
My man! With the low key shade compliment 😅
@@paulferreira8342you’re not lying man dam😂😂😂
I'm kinda glad old drunk Bob Dick and Clem are retired now.
@@herbienbrian2Ronald’s still 75 and kickin it in our shop he’s lonely tho I don’t blame him
And, in the winter it will fill up with condensation VERY often, so empty it weekly
Don’t trust cans with the valve on the bottom for cleaning. Some of that gunk is too thick to drip out, it’s better when you open them up and wipe them clean every time!
Thank you for retelling us what he just said.
Just grab a can of brake clean and send it.
So your not cleaning it all the time because of a plugged drain.... Cut a piece of poly tubing that will press fit inside the drain valve. Make it extend 1/2 to 3/4 the height of the can and reinstall. You can now drain your can Many more times without the valve clogging than you could before, because the can will have to fill with sediment to the top of the tube before the tube gets plugged. The key is the sediment in the oil will stay mixed while you drive because of vibrations and movement. It will settle around the straw in the can while your parked. Keeping the tube clear a lot longer than the valve that sits flush with the bottom. Once the tube plugs.... Clean out the whole assembly and you good to go for a whole bunch more drainings! 👍👏🏁
@@jpol3808 how about opening and cleaning it as part of the oil change? 🤔
Yep!🤔
What?! The guys at valvoline said they emptied it...
They prolly wouldnt even know what a catch can is
@@SyNdicateZ81bunch of dumb dumbs there. I chalked my tires for rotation and the wheels never moved when I got my truck back. I do all my own work after that 😂
I hope this is a joke
😂
The guys at Valvoline also say they lubricated your horn.
Traded in an Edge with one I installed on it. Told the dealer it was there when I dropped it off, really hope that message got across to the new owners…
It definitely didn't lol
I slip a note into the owners manual... sticking out a bit. Anything the new owner might find helpful. Type of oil used, etc.
@@jerryjeromehawkins1712 lol thats assuming if next owner actually looks at the manual.
Seen videos of where mechanics used grease pens To write warnings to next guy looks under the car?
@@friedpistonrings8533 If the new owner never looks at the manual then either they downloaded a digital copy or the vehicle was going to an early grave anyways =)
The atmosphere is my catch can.😊
I believe the instructions on mine, also installed on 3.5 EcoBoost, says to empty the can every 500-1000 miles.
That’s to much
@@kennethsimmons7394 How many miles would recommend?
Do you have much oil collection? My 3.5 is starting to do the hiccup on hard acceleration. Just hit 132k on a 2012
@@BraDaFoskeep checking it every couple hundred miles. Find a good fill level that you would be comfortable with. Once it reaches that fill level, calculate how many miles it took to reach that level. Then wait for that many miles to empty it.
My instructions said to check it every week and once I become familiar with how fast or slow it fills, but don’t let it get higher than 2-3 inches. Based off of that and my driving schedule and habits, I only gotta check it every 1-1 1/2 months.
It also has a built in dip stick, which I scuffed up because it’s smooth and painted black, so I wanted the bare metal to show so it was easier to see, and to kinda make hash marks so the forbidden coffee would stick to the dipstick easier and I would know the depth level, without having to unscrew the reservoir can.
I empty mine weekly in winter and every two weeks in the summer ( temps make a difference) in my 2014 f150 ecoboost
I have 4 Ecoboost SUVs in family all with catch cans all with clean intake valves.
The 2nd and 3rd generation doesn't need them and ford doesn't recommend them as they are dual port injection and it cleans the valves.
@derekparisian2023 it's still better having it than not. Car makers want you to be so stupid and not have 1 of these on your car. Any year.
@@derekparisian2023 Ford sells one for the 2nd Gen 3.5 eco.
@Darbman62 are they selling it for sales? Or is there genuinely something wrong with the engine that it has to have it. Last I checked no manufacturer puts them on their vehicles and there's probably a reason for it. Ford sells superchargers so I guess that means the 5.0 needs a supercharger to have better reliability.
@decythr show me the science and data that proves this? Last I checked there isn't a TSB for the 3.5 and the oil vapors causing the engine to premature. The oil gets burnt off when fuel hits the valve on the back side and gets cleaned from the detergents in today's fuel. So no, you are wrong. I'll save 200$ and let the 3rd generation do what ford intended it to do.
Thank you for another very educational video! Please wear gloves whenever you touch any used automotive fluids. I’m trying to help out the Mayson 30 years from now. When you’re young and strong, it’s extremely difficult to imagine the wear and tear on the human body of decades of work. Take care of yourself. You deserve it.
I think dude knows this..
I'm just wondering what kind of wear and tear you know about, that I do not, that comes from the mere touching of fluids? I was sure when I rolled the genetics lottery, and became a male, that I would absolutely *not* be needing to worry about what ANY fluids could do to me, or my body. Chunky and gross or not, I don't understand how years of touching stuff could leave your body deteriorating... Now, were we females.. The years of touching things, and the resulting fluids, could definitely create wear and tear on ones body...
However...
"Man I woke up this morning with the absolute WORST finger tip ache of my LIFE!" - Nobody ever
I think he's likely pretty safe... Gloves? Optional.
@@derekspringer6448 you do know that things like ATF and motor oil will leech into your skin and enter your blood stream? These things are extremely well documented how long term exposure to these chemicals and fluids cause long term harm and neurological issues and cancers. Please stop spreading your ignorance, he's trying to help a young man before he does irreversible damage to his body.
@@derekspringer6448 Newsflash! Automotive fluids are known carcinogens and also know to cause neurological diseases.
Same reason why some manufacturers left out cabin air filters…
People don’t care enough to read the manual or maintain things.
I drilled a 1/16" hole in the lowest part of my intercooler 82,000 miles ago. About 4oz of cream blew out the first time i cranked it afterwards. Now, it's a slightly darker upsidedown V on the back of my air dam.
My ecoboost has 182k on the clock now, and 12 years.
She runs like a scalded dog. I rarely, if ever, have sputtering or missing issues.
Before i did that, i had those issues regularly.
And btw, i've never done a single induction clean on my ecoboost.
I drain and clean my catch can beginning of every month. In the winter is only time i get milky oil out of it. Figuer its condensation and moisture.
make sure all your connections are sealed and throw some teflon tape on if it has any parts that screw together.
I've got a little Steeda one on my 2.7. 5K miles after installation, hardly anything. I'm running Amsoil 100% Synthetic and I mostly do highway driving.
They do have some benefits, it give better pickup power, it keeps the map sensor clean resulting in a slightly better fuel mileage and power but not a necessary upgrade. As long as you use a good synthetic oil and synthetic filter longevity is never a issue. I have a 2011 F150 3.5 ecoboost with 494,000 miles with no catch can. I bought it used with 80,000 miles and I’ve never touched the engine or the turbos. So the fear of coking the valves and the turbo chargers are no longer a problem with modern synthetic oils and filter media and fuels. I’m an Amsoil guy and it’s worked for me, my engine doesn’t sound any different today than it did when it had 80,000 miles. I do have timing chain noise in the morning when I don’t prime the engine and that was the result of a crooked mechanic stealing my Amsoil filter and replacing it with the old style Pennzoil cardboard filter, if he would’ve been honest I wouldn’t have that problem. I change my own oil because of that experience.
I work at a remanufacturing company and I have never heard of an eco-booze making a past 300,000 miles so if yours has damn near a half 1 million and you’ve never replaced the turbos or engine itself that might be a fucking record lol
@@kennethsimmons7394 I love this engine, the only major repair I’ve had was the lead frame in the transmission failed. $1500 and I was back on the road and that happened at 380,000 miles. The fuckn alternator lasted for 452,000 miles. I’m impressed with it, other than a few irritating things
3.5 TT is an awesome engine.
One the my shops took my k&n filter and replaced it with a basic one after i said just clean it out lol just that little dishonesty made me change my own oil every time
Power from a catch can 😂
Yessir. I have an SLT oil catch can on my 17 f150 3.5L EB and I check it every few thousand miles or once a month. She runs quieter(i.e. before installing, the engine ran rougher and was noisier). Now I get more growl and less wheeze! 😅
I have a 2001 F350 V10 Dually it atomize oil in the crank case about half a quart per oil change. My 1999 Mustang GT same 2 valve design but smaller does the same exact thing about a quarter quart per oil change since new. My father an engineer said this lubricates the top end do not add a catch can it's snake oil science to sell junk that keeps the valves bone dry and kills motors. Well two decades later I'm up north camping with my RV V10 still running perfectly and same with the Stang. I would say unless turbo motors have a known design flaw in the way the motor was built you don't need one because it's definitely not outlasting my vehicles and zero manufactures install them or use them on the racing motors.
Amen. I service mine every time. Clean it out..visually inspect what its catching. (Usually quite a bit of sludge)
I run the JLT 3.0 and the whole bottom comes off instead of a drain tube. After 5k miles, it’s usually only 1/3 full
The new tech now are the water-oil seperators. Zero maintenance like an OEM crankcase vent, while reducing oil consumption and reducing air intake contamination like a catch can.
They use hot engine coolant to vapoize water and contamination entering the separator, which flows back out to the engine air intake. The purified oil flows back to the crankcase.
And THIS is exactly why motor companies will NOT make catch cans a normal part of our vehicles. Because they have to be self serviced beyond just your normal oil change. And people sometimes forget about them after having them installed.
Seeing how that catch can looks, I can pretty much guess how the other maintenance history has been. Jeez!
Thanks for reminding me! 😂 Love this channel 👍
I have a 1989 BMW E30... I have 83 catch-cans in my engine bay installed in parallel and I think I almost have my oil problem solved as when a new leak comes up I just install another catch can. Oil changes for the 1.8L 4 cylinder engine are now 35 quarts of oil instead of the factory 7 quarts. and I have added approximately 200lbs of hardware and oil to the front of my vehicle. I think my car is crying out for help with the warning lights, but it only says "JA! Härter Papa Härter" behind an amber colored bulb. So I guess I'm good.
I’ve been convinced since 91’ that fords suck and after watching a multitude of your videos my hypothesis stands that fords will continue to suck
I'm a lube technician at Ford, we will do it if customer requests it.
Why not upsell it.... Save this link....
@@WhyFacetattoos because it's after market, & we do not touch anything after market because any part could be anything. If the customer lets us know "hey that's a catch can, can you clean it", we will do it because it doesn't take that long, we have the tools to do it, & it's part of the oil change.
Adding volume and friction with lines and can to the crankcase raises crankcase pressure depending how its done and causes more oil to blow out of the engine, and some is forced up through the ring packs into the combustion chamber directly, high crankcase pressure also causes issue with oil draining from rings properly and leads to oil leaks and early ring switching which also increases blow-by. You do not want a catch can. What you do want is to measure and set the crankcase pressure properly. I have video on my channel how do DIY this using cheap map sensor on turbo engines.
Awesome as always Mayson!!!🙂🙂🙂.
I usta know a guy named "Mason Jar."
If not drained before winter, water inside the can will freeze, blocking crankcase ventilation causing blow by pressure to build and blow out the crankshaft seals.
I have a 1993 Volvo 850 and the funny thing is that it's PCV is a catch can. It drains into the oil pan for the oil filter to catch.
Seeing him with the new hair cut still hittin me 😂🤣🤣
LOVE YOUR TRUCK TAKE CARE OF THE AWESOME MACHINE
Chrysler integrated catch cans in with the PCV breather going back as far as the early 70s. Amazing the difference they make if your engine has some blow by
When researching a good oil catch can for your vehicle. Try to find one that circulates coolant through it. It's not required and can cost more than you're willing to spend. But the coolant flowing through will keep the oil from sludging up. You can also have them return to the oil pan as well. There are many options out there.
And in the winter months you'll most likely have to fully remove them from the vehicle to thaw out. Have had to run hot water through mine to unfreeze the slurry to drain out.
Ford needs a catch can bucket.
Mine was empty every other fill up. It made me get the cold start tick though. It went away after I removed the cans.
Are you saying that you never had any oil caught by the can? Also that you now the cold start hemi ticking, and that after removing the cans the ticking went away?
I empty mine every 3 weeks. Apparently your customer did not do his homework.
I have both on my 2016 3.5 L ecoboost and clean out at every oil change truck has 205 K on it. Just replaced original cam phasers and Chain. Use marvel mystery oil works great!
I drain my UPR catch can on my 2.7L Ecoboost every oil change and it always has several ounces to dump. The large can on the dirty side is always collecting oil. The clean side has been empty since 5k miles. Now I'm at 92k miles. I gutted my PCV valve and rely on the check valve in the system to prevent reversion. Been working great. Turbo impellers are still nice and clean.
I do the same on the 5.0L Mustang, but it collects very little. N/A vs FI, so that's expected.
I drain my catch can on my na 2.0L on my focus, and about every 30k I remove it and clean it out. I use one from Tracy Lewis performance, I use their monster can and helps with my engine exhaust stay clean. I don't have any engine seals leaking with close to 300k miles on my focus. I've only replaced my catalytic converter @105K miles. I do run on really good oil that are not OE fluids.
I’ve never seen stuff like that in a catch can. Totally agree you should tear them apart and clean them regularly but I don’t even know what it could be unless you have a bunch of dirt that’s falling in from the intake or something when you shut the vehicle off. Shouldn’t be anything in appreciable amounts to cause the oil to thicken like that, at least not if everything is working properly.
I empty my catch can at least twice a year. It gets pretty full sometimes.
Thanks for your knowledge brother
on a most diesel engines run it straight to the ground with a bigger hose so you don't build up crankcase pressure and block the intake side
And this is the reason why cars don't come with catch cans from the factory, despite being a good thing for any car regardless of purpose. Because manufacturers know the owners won't know what to do with them / when to drain them and then this happens.
Good rule of thumb.If you check your oil drain your can
Catch cans are great as long as you service and empty them. If you're feeling lazy put an exhaust venturi pcv on it.
The catch with a catch can is that they're designed for people who do their maintenance. Empty them; it's not hard.
I open mine up and clean once a week! (2015 Chevy Colorado)
I empty and clean my 1.6L GDIT catch can every 3K miles ( with my oil changes ) makes it super easy to remember when I did it last
Older naturally aspirated BMW's come from the factory with a pcv system that acts similar to a catch can, and when they go bad, blue smoke comes out the tail pipe. All of them go bad, by the way.
Catch cans are worthless. It’s a lazy PCV filter. A true air oil separator with a return back to the oil pan wouldn’t alleviate having to empty out the mayo jars
That's what I never understood. Aren't PCV systems supposed to have filter media and inertial separators that send the oil back to the crankcase? Catch cans seem like a sub optimal solution from an engineering perspective.
@@gregorymalchuk272 100%. Catch cans just catch and, like this video, fill up and spill over, or worse - completely clog the PCV system from working. A sample drain with PCV valve back to the pan is best. Everything else is a gimmick
@JohnnyFnG84 the only people making sense in this comment section.
A Positive Crankcase Ventilation system merely uses vacuum to suck in internal crankcase blow by pressure. In the old days we used vented dome caps on the valve covers to vent those crankcase pressures to the atmosphere or thin wall piping down the side of the engine under the car until the government prohibited it. The “solution” initially was to run the crankcase hoses from the valve covers to the air cleaner and let the air filter do its job. Then that morphed into the worst idea ever that we currently use-to send the oily mist pressure directly into the intake manifold so we get to burn it, unfortunately it goops up everything with carbon. I have never encountered a PVC system that filters. Check ball, yes, but filter, no. So the idea behind a catch can is to simply add an in-line separator to collect that oily goop and have the output side going back up to the intake. Of course they work because we see them used for industrial applications. The problem is, the aftermarket world is full of poorly engineered get rich quick substandard snake oil products marketed to gullible men who love to pop open their hood.
My old Alfa Romeo had an awesome factory catch can setup, where it would automatically drain back into the engine through a 1/4" hose. Always worked, no oil in the intake, and I beat the crap out of that car.
I put one on my wife's Palisade (N/A, but 13:1 compression. I check it every tank or two in the winter, and half as often in the summer. It collects tons of gnarly crud in winter especially.
They are worth it you have to empty and clean them every oil change
Do catch cans void the warranty?
Change your oil every 4000 to 5000 miles and you don’t need no stupid catch can.
yep run good gas , oil changes and dont baby the 3.5 need to spool up them turbos every now and then. 15 3.5 @ 130k miles stock
you're supposed to empty it every oil change.
Good to know. I’ve been looking at some for my 2.7. Could you get away with just one, or do you need two?
Thank You for sharing 👍
I use one on the right bank of my 2.7 Eco, empty it at every oil change, there is usually about a 1/2 inch of fluid in it.
Clean mine at every oil change
Catch can maintenance can easily be done when the oil is changed.
They actually do work, I have one on my focus st i check it twice a month and is usually pretty good shockingly
My 5.0 is dual injected. I don’t need to run a catch can. I probably should, but I “clean” the engine out enough
Mann & Hummel makes a catch can that has a replacement cartridge filter. Change it every time you change your engine oil. Easy peezy
I can tell you're a good mechanic because I see Knipex tools
My crank case vents into a sweep in my exhaust near the back end. Because old school diesel.
Clear fuel filter so you can see when to clean it.
Never heard of a catch can before. But I thought that's what the oil filter was for! I don't think I ever saw 1 on a vehicle.
I thought about putting one on my 4.6l 3v Triton but don't know if it's really needed.
Had to run a catch can on my modified race bike after I put the rev box ion there the oil started foaming up and running out the vent tube. After the oil cooler the problem was solved
Unfortunately these cans don’t work, there is so much more to it that no one talks about. People see one side and think it works. Coin has two sides and there is two things to the catch can and only portion of one side is mentioned by everyone
I put two on my 3.5 ecoboost.
During winter I have to empty it every week. They are small. During summer I hardly have to empty
I have 2019 diesel truck. Can I just vent vent the crank case ventilation to the atmosphere?
They also act as a vacuum reservoir which doesn't mean much for an NA engine. But can cause undesirable performance from the PCV system on a turbo application allowing an abundance of crank case pressure during the transitions between boost and no boost (visa versa). Just because it's catching oil doesn't mean it's doing a good thing.
I put in a catch can in me gdi, and then took it a step further and vented it directly to atmosphere. I just capped off the intake securely and now absolutely nothing goes back from the PCV.
Its unnecessary. Change your oil early, 3500 to 4k max. Full syn quality oil and do the occasional Italian tune up. This made my 3.5 eb last 300k miles. No catchcans or carbon build up.
This it why I tend to lean toward a air oil separator more
There are pros and cons to having a catch can tho. Pros are yk catching the oil and all that nasty stuff cons are slowing down crankcase ventilation leaving u with more blowby from the engine if theres enough blowby youll push a seal out eventually
I learned something today I mostly worked in transmission shops. General repair means slot of oil changes
I worked in a transmission shop for about 3 years. Our retail work was your everyday and yesteryear passenger & work vehicle, but we had the world's one and only officially licensed "Christine" pro modified drag car. And because of that car, we contracted work on restomods, restoration, and nearly any drag car class. I've had the pleasure of building Christine's engine to delivering a 3.85 sec. Avg. in the ⅛th mi. When you start adding certain elements from the racing realm to a street driven vehicle, you have to account for what needs maintenance according to how you would inspect them as if you were on the track, which is regularly. That is to say you care about the equipment you have. There's a lot that can be learned in transmission shops. Especially when the sole owner was a founding member of ATRA, a former 18 wheeler driver in his early years hauling for some Nascar drivers with the likes of Richard Petty... them North Carolina folk were serious about horsepower.
I clean mine every 2 weeks with brake cleaner... I don't dare wait for oil changes because they fill up way to quick for that.. Just a heads up..
I've seen a ton of these going on the pickups. Does any know if they should be going on all the eco boost engines? I got a flex and a was just curious.
Did he buy it with it installed? Or how do you have the idea to install it but not empty it?
I agree completely completely worth the money on an ecoboost. I had mine installed for well over 100k. It catch like 5x as much in winter. Versus summer. Summer can empry once. Winter empty like once a month.
All the years catch cans were in the market already and still, they are considered illegal by CARB, so Californians cannot legally buy and install catch cans on their vehicles. One would think CARB would like it in our cars, because it keeps cars from burning most of the oil, coming from the EGR system....😮
It ain't about saving the planet it's all about the money
I have a 2014 f150 with 102,000 what catch can do YOU suggest I add?
What I've learned from these truck mechanic shorts youtube keeps recommending is that if you have a truck, get ever nut and bolt serviced constantly lmao
The same thing goes for pcv valve maintenance. It's not just good for life.
The one I have has a dip stick in the top and the canister comes off to dump the oil
I’ve heard they are bad news in cold environments because they catch moisture and then freeze and the engine can’t breathe properly…
They are better for the engine when maintained properly, but worse than stock when not maintained properly.
I've been told to service a catch can twice every oil change, one at 2500 and at 5k
First gen ecoboost, needed to empty catch can every morning or else it would be blowin plugs and coils like they were loonies in your pocket. Should’ve been an auto maker issue not a customer issue
Ok but real shit, what traumatized our distant ancestors so badly that a fear of ‘human-like but not quite human’ faces, shapes, mannerisms, etc. has been passed down to all of us via our DNA? Did we used to have some kind of predator that would imitate our appearance, behaviors, and sounds as a way to get close enough to kill? These things sometimes keep me up at night
Service you catch can so catch can, can operate like it's supposed to 😊
How often should you clean these out?
How many blown rear main seals from clogged up catch cans?
In theory they sound good but I have always been suspicious that they capture only a very small fraction of all the pollutants contained in the bypass gasses. They really need to be monstrous in size to do the right job.
Reminds me of the people who just leave water in their air/water intercoolers and just keep adding more water and wonder why it turns into a frog pond/septic tank.