Very nice cliff a bit daunting wouldn't you say but they affect is well worth the effort good to see you again!! Used to do that same thing years ago but now I have learned since then is that I use 16th balsa sheet and overlay then on my beginning edge and ending edge I send to taper in flush so that it is not raised higher than everything else the finished effect works out wonderful for me. I especially use it on my world war II aircraft peace my friend God bless ✌️🍻
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes hey thanks for the reply back cliff yeah and it can be just as daunting as filling in as well it has its moments too but for me it works real good on world war II by Wing type aircraft and looks good I leave some paper though thanks again Cliff have an awesome day ✌️
Inflling gets easier with practice. Use balsa filler to fill gaps. Beveling edges helps on curved sections. Don't infill rear of fuselage for electric RC models, it will make model more tail heavy requiring more nose ballast for flight. Use sandable wood glue like Titebond. CYA glue does not sand easily. For rubber powered free flight models, infilling increases total weight/wing loading, hurts flight performance.
Hi Gary, thanks for your input, you're quite correct about infilling behind the cg for rc models (as well as rubber ff). Infilling in front of the cg helps more than it hinders if you think you're going to need noseweight, which is most of the time, cheers.
No sir, I didn't even think about their being a Guillows Facebook group. I'll go check it out. Here is the P38 build thread: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3807249-Guillows-P38
Hey Cliff, I did join a couple of weeks ago. There's a lot of great content being posted. Been working on the 40-inch P38 today, I'm not a very fast builder.
@@kevinr8336 Hi Kev, I checked out the build thread, I didn't realise they were so big 🤔 There's no hurry to build it, enjoy every piece you fit, besides half the fun is working out how everything fits and works together, keep going she's going to look magnificent 👍
Nice tutorial. I think this would really work well in turning a Guillows kit into a nice static model, especially their larger kits like the Mustang, Corsair, Spitfire ect. Your Bird Dog is looking very nice too.
Hi Cliff, I lay the balsa over the gap I want to infill then I use a pin to score a mark on the balsa from the inside of the model. That way I can cut the balsa to shape as those stringers follow the curve of the model my balsa infill will be curved for a flush fit. 😉 It does take patience.
At the moment I am doing a easy build fleet Canuck and the shape look’s a hole lot better doing this , I generally cover with mono coat or ultra coat so to get rid of low or high spots i use spackle compound sands real easy but one cant use any liquid over the top or it turn back to mud you can spray spackle compound with lacquer to h20 proof and seal it up. Spackle ( dry hall compound ) A lot of times i will replace a lot of stringers with spruce stringers
Hi Tom, Spackle has become a generic term these days, but most of the lightweight fillers work well enough 👍 Replacing stringers, especially in the areas which are handled is a very good idea, sometimes I'll soak them in these areas with ca which can work quite well ☺
Never done it. But I have seen where someone used 1/32th balsa, soaked it (not sure how long), this allowed it to bend and they just glued it on. This would go around the stringers.
I like to use 3/32"-3/16" thickness balsa on some areas. Then sand down flush and smooth. Sometime I use Titebond glue because it is sandable and I used it as filler.
I noticed that those Guillows kits use a heavy guage wire for the landing gear. I think that I would recommend using a smaller guage to keep the weight down.
I hear what you're saying Morco but what I did was to shorten the amount of wire inside the fuselage by not going up into the fuselage as much as the plan suggested. I probably saved more weight doing this than dropping a wire size, thanks for the idea though. 👍
Hi George, it's hard to say to what extent it has an effect on the cg but suffice to say it can only help as most Guillows models need nose weight to some extent 🤔
Use masking tape to make a pattern of the open bay that you are infilling. Place the masking tape over the open bay. Crease the masking tape (inside of the inside border of the bay with a fingernail) Trace out the crease lines with a fine tip Sharpie. Make (mark) a Sharpie dot in the top left hand corner of the pattern for orientation. Transfer the pattern on to a sheet of wood, cut outside of the lines, & transfer the orientation dot on the cut out piece of sheet. (so if you drop it while sanding, & fiddling the fit, You will know how it was cut to fit)
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes If I could post photos it would help! Some one shared this link on/in the FB. group > Guillow's Flying Models< that is where I had seen it.. I added photos there on the technique that I had developed from trial & error, & wasting wood!
Thanks again Cliff for another fine tip to put in my toolkit for model building.
You're welcome John 👍
Great technique, the Bird Dog is looking good. My dad earned a bronze star as a crew chief on the Bird dog in Korea. Great stuff Cliff 👍
That's amazing Jerry, have you ever built one, at any scale?
Not yet, but gonna build a big one after I retire..
hangaronekits.com/products/cessna-bird-dog-87-90-size
Thank you for sharing! Indeed patience is needed, but you really got it to look great!
Thanks DC, any news on the Hellcat?
Another masterclass tip. Thanks Cliff 👍🏻
Cheers Chrus, not sure about the masterclass description but it's a start 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes My point of view 🤓
Very nice cliff a bit daunting wouldn't you say but they affect is well worth the effort good to see you again!! Used to do that same thing years ago but now I have learned since then is that I use 16th balsa sheet and overlay then on my beginning edge and ending edge I send to taper in flush so that it is not raised higher than everything else the finished effect works out wonderful for me. I especially use it on my world war II aircraft peace my friend God bless ✌️🍻
Hi Paul, thanks for your method, how modellers can do a whole model is amazing, we all have our own strengths and weaknesses 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes hey thanks for the reply back cliff yeah and it can be just as daunting as filling in as well it has its moments too but for me it works real good on world war II by Wing type aircraft and looks good I leave some paper though thanks again Cliff have an awesome day ✌️
Inflling gets easier with practice. Use balsa filler to fill gaps. Beveling edges helps on curved sections. Don't infill rear of fuselage for electric RC models, it will make model more tail heavy requiring more nose ballast for flight. Use sandable wood glue like Titebond. CYA glue does not sand easily. For rubber powered free flight models, infilling increases total weight/wing loading, hurts flight performance.
Hi Gary, thanks for your input, you're quite correct about infilling behind the cg for rc models (as well as rubber ff). Infilling in front of the cg helps more than it hinders if you think you're going to need noseweight, which is most of the time, cheers.
Many thanks Cliff, cheers! I'm working on a Guillows P38 and have some infill work to do. This gives me a good baseline to start.
Are you a member of the Guillow's FB Group Kevin? I have a new-found respect for you guys who do a whole plane 😬👍
No sir, I didn't even think about their being a Guillows Facebook group. I'll go check it out. Here is the P38 build thread: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3807249-Guillows-P38
Hey Cliff, I did join a couple of weeks ago. There's a lot of great content being posted. Been working on the 40-inch P38 today, I'm not a very fast builder.
@@kevinr8336 Hi Kev, I checked out the build thread, I didn't realise they were so big 🤔 There's no hurry to build it, enjoy every piece you fit, besides half the fun is working out how everything fits and works together, keep going she's going to look magnificent 👍
Nice tutorial. I think this would really work well in turning a Guillows kit into a nice static model, especially their larger kits like the Mustang, Corsair, Spitfire ect. Your Bird Dog is looking very nice too.
Thanks DR, yes it's a common practice for static model builders especially 👍
Hi Cliff, I lay the balsa over the gap I want to infill then I use a pin to score a mark on the balsa from the inside of the model. That way I can cut the balsa to shape as those stringers follow the curve of the model my balsa infill will be curved for a flush fit. 😉
It does take patience.
Another great idea, still need loads of patience though 🤔👍
At the moment I am doing a easy build fleet Canuck and the shape look’s a hole lot better doing this , I generally cover with mono coat or ultra coat so to get rid of low or high spots i use spackle compound sands real easy but one cant use any liquid over the top or it turn back to mud you can spray spackle compound with lacquer to h20 proof and seal it up. Spackle ( dry hall compound ) A lot of times i will replace a lot of stringers with spruce stringers
Hi Tom, Spackle has become a generic term these days, but most of the lightweight fillers work well enough 👍 Replacing stringers, especially in the areas which are handled is a very good idea, sometimes I'll soak them in these areas with ca which can work quite well ☺
Never done it. But I have seen where someone used 1/32th balsa, soaked it (not sure how long), this allowed it to bend and they just glued it on. This would go around the stringers.
That would certainly be quicker Lee 🤔👍
You have more patience than I do Cliff!
I don't think I could have done many more Bob to he honest 😬
I like to use 3/32"-3/16" thickness balsa on some areas. Then sand down flush and smooth. Sometime I use Titebond glue because it is sandable and I used it as filler.
Thanks for the tip Richard, it did occur to me to use thicker wood on the more curved areas 👍
I noticed that those Guillows kits use a heavy guage wire for the landing gear. I think that I would recommend using a smaller guage to keep the weight down.
I hear what you're saying Morco but what I did was to shorten the amount of wire inside the fuselage by not going up into the fuselage as much as the plan suggested. I probably saved more weight doing this than dropping a wire size, thanks for the idea though. 👍
Very nice, Cliff.
Thanks Gudjon 👍
Top stuff Cliff like your work thanks
Thanks Micheal 🙂
Does sheeting the nose of that kit change the CG much?
Hi George, it's hard to say to what extent it has an effect on the cg but suffice to say it can only help as most Guillows models need nose weight to some extent 🤔
There is an easier way!
Don't tease Perry, let me know ... please 😫
Use masking tape to make a pattern of the open bay that you are infilling. Place the masking tape over the open bay. Crease the masking tape (inside of the inside border of the bay with a fingernail) Trace out the crease lines with a fine tip Sharpie. Make (mark) a Sharpie dot in the top left hand corner of the pattern for orientation. Transfer the pattern on to a sheet of wood, cut outside of the lines, & transfer the orientation dot on the cut out piece of sheet. (so if you drop it while sanding, & fiddling the fit, You will know how it was cut to fit)
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes If I could post photos it would help! Some one shared this link on/in the FB. group > Guillow's Flying Models< that is where I had seen it.. I added photos there on the technique that I had developed from trial & error, & wasting wood!
@@perrychristensen307 Seen it now Perry, thanks 👍