99-02 GMC Chevy ABS Pump Replacement
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- The ABS pump in my 2001 LB7 Duramax | GMC Sierra 3500 crew-cab long bed dually started showing signs it was tired and in need of replacing.
ABS Pump:
🔴Genuine Parts 88935864 Brake Pressure Modulator Valve : amzn.to/3coW87i
Tools Needed:
🔴DEWALT Mechanics Tool Set, 247-Piece (DWMT81535) : amzn.to/3ck3cCi
🔴CARBYNE Master Torx Bit Socket Set & Torx External Socket Set - 62 Piece: amzn.to/3kPgXxv
🔴Milwaukee 2457-20 M12 Cordless 3/8" Sub-Compact: amzn.to/3l7SHqD
Signs your ABS Pump is Failing
THE DASHBOARD'S ABS LIGHT IS ON. When your ABS experiences a mechanical issue, your dashboard's ABS light will illuminate as a warning. ...
YOUR BRAKE PEDAL LOCKS UP. ...
INCORRECT SPEEDOMETER READINGS. ...
BRAKING SYSTEM IS UNRESPONSIVE.
#lb7duramax
#gmcsierra
#chevysilverado
I re tapped the threads it worked and yes your right it gets cross threaded so be careful
Commenting for support. Keep the diesel content coming.
Thank you brotha! 🍻
Thanks for the tips. I have a 2002 Sierra 2500 HD that needs this.
It's not too difficult of a job to tackle. You got this Terry! 🍻
I just destroyed mine while fastening the very last of the 6 lines. I now want to burn my truck.
Ahhhhh man! I've done that before and know exactly how you feel. I spent hours trying to fix the threads to no avail and had to purchase a new one. That's the kind of thing you hope to only do once. I think the only thing you can try (if there is enough material left on the threads) is to cut one of the fittings so it acts as a tap then run it through and see if it holds. High pressure things though so it's a long shot.
Do it
Hi. Thank you for the video. I'm helping a buddy chase down a fluid leak. Can the modual leak or will it be the hydraul control unit
@@Bill-j2g ah man, chasing down leaks is always fun! This unit shouldn't leak unless the lines or threads on the unit were damaged. You'd be able to tell pretty quick just by pumping the brakes a few times.
I have a 2002 gmc sls Sonoma crew cab and I have all the break parts replaced just that it won’t hold pressure
Hello KingDeathClaw54, and sorry to hear about your brakes that is very frustrating. I just went through this same thing with my dually and here is what I can share with you. If your brakes won't hold pressure check a couple things before changing your pump & valve. In our early 2000s GMC/Chevy vehicles they are notorious for failed ABS sensors, not because there is anything wrong with the sensors per-say but the hub they are mounted too will rust and lift the sensor up which pushes the magnetic sensor too far away to read the reluctor wheel. You can fix this by removing the abs sensor from the hub and sanding the hub down so its nice and flush. I cover how to do that procedure here: ua-cam.com/video/zr7R3fLUGGI/v-deo.html If your sensors are damaged or not registering because of the rust build up, the ABS pump will not engage because the ABS system will not be able to calculate your wheel speed. You also might check to make sure you don't have a vacuum leak in your brake booster just to make sure. I'll put the link to the valve & pump in your next comment where you ask for the link. Best of luck man🍻
Does anyone know where to get the pump every where I look the pump is unavailable
Is your car working fine? There are no issues with the new ABS pump actuator.
My abs unit is still working great 👍
Thanks for the video , QUESTION 🙋♂️ , what are the two holes underneath where the brake lines go ? Looks like two that have a rubber boot on it.
You know I'm not entirely sure. I was looking it up trying to figure it out and I think it might be part of a bleed function. I'm not sure how to use it though. Now I'm curious and want to figure it out!
@@KooshdaakaaGarage I found that they’re dust caps and with a diy probe, can be used to determine a bad ABS block/valve assembly.
ohhhh cool! Thank you for letting me know!
Sir, I replaced my 01 silverado 2500hd abs and brakelines after watching your video. I cant seem to start rebleeding. Do I need to take off master cyl first and rebleed it then do each wheel and finally do abs bleed w scanner tool? What order do i start w? Maybe i dont need to rebleed MC? Thnx in advance for any help.
Sir, I replaced front wheel hubs and speed sensors and all 4 rotors and calipers. Also made sure all 5 new brake lines were hooked up to abs right.
@@garywilliams3850 you are in for a lot of brake bleeding my friend. It took me a while to manually bleed all the air out after installing new calipers, then again when installing new hard lines then again when installing the abs modulating valve etc. Best thing you can do is stay the course and bleed the caliper furthest from the master cylinder the work your way towards the closest to the master cylinder one by one. If you have a bleed tool (I don't) and/or a tech II (I don't) then the auto bleed function is a nice option. Otherwise you can use a dirt road or wet road to speed up to 10-15 mph or whatever you are comfortable with then slam on your brakes to activate the abs and push any air out of the abs modulating valves. If your brakes go from somewhat hard to squishy then you successfully pushed air out of the abs valves and can bleed the calipers again. It'll take a bit of time but you are on the right track. Best of luck 🍻
Una pregunta y toda la aceite que tiro ya no vi donde le pusistes
You can use a shop rag to catch the oil :)
Hey not sure if you can help me or not but at 3:09 those 2 black caps by your pinki one fell of of mine do i have to get a new pump or just put a cap on it and if its just a cap where could i get one?
Hey man, good question! So it's been a while since I read about those but if memory serves me right, those are dust covers for two ports that are used for bleeding the abs valve module if you have the right tool. I don't think you can buy new caps but I imagine a guy could fashion something up.
Do u have to bleed every caliper after? Or can get away with not
Definitely bleed all the calipers 👍
I have a c0131 traction control system pressure circuit malfunction and c0283mode switch circuit malfunction. It's like I have brakes but not the best unless I push all the way down. Pedal also feels like it doesn't really spring back after pushing it. Tried Google and it's pointing to replacing this. It does feel like the brakes drag occasionally. Also if turning to the right and traction control kicks on from gravel, ice etc the passenger front brakes stick until I shut the truck off and let it sit for a minute
Did you ever get it resolved? Having similar issues.
So far the best information I ran across about an ABS and motor repair thx man
Thank you for watching!
Those fittings are 14mm. It's a tight fit but 14mm is what it is. I'm not trying to be know it all. I'm here because I'm the ra-tard that cross threaded the new brake line fittings.
I think I bounced back and forth between 14mm and 9/16s when I changed my rusty steel lines over to stainless. I used 14mm to break er loose and 9/16ths to finish it off 🤘😁🍻 thank you for your comment and I hope you get your ride back on the road soon if ya haven't already!
So, after you install it do you have to do a break bleed? Get out any air? Or not?
@TheTruth23rd yeah I'd bleed it if I were you. With a scan tool if you can. I went out on a dirt road and did a few hard brake deployments at low speed to kick the abs pump on which pushed the air out.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage okay, I have to do my 17’ Silverado. Abs control pump stuck. So the light would turn on and turn off. But now it’s not turning off. So I need to do mine asap this weekend. Any advice before I start?
@TheTruth23rd fun! Get your flare nut wrenches and take your time threading. The abs unit is aluminum and is extremely easy to strip. Once the threads are stripped it's toast. There's not enough room to re tap. So just take your time, hand thread everything and you'll get er' done 🍻
Do you mean to tell me those units are still available new? I have a 2000 Chevy 1500 express van and the Son of Gun piece of something told me the ABS was no longer made. No lights on the dash but no pressure on the right front caliper. I found a used one ONLY because I trusted what my trusty mechanic told me. Tell me something I can hang a glimmer of hope to.
I mean they should still make those. Which engine do you have? I installed an ABS pump & modulating valve in a 2000 Chevy Silverado 2500 and my 2001 GMC Sierra 3500/ LB7 Duramax.
Although too much dialelctric grease can be a problem, i had a v6 f150 before no one could figure out the misfire on it they has brand new plugs and wires it turned out to be too much grease acting as a barrier not allowing any electricity to flow.
Did you have problems bleeding the system?
Not really. I hit a patch of dirt road or wet pavement and did a series of controlled braking at 10-20mph to force the air out of the abs unit and into the brake calipers, then bleed them as usual. Took a couple rounds of that to get all the air out.
Question broth, I'm planning to replace the abs pump but some one told me , I need a special tool some kind of pump to drain the lines,need answers,cause shopp charge me$1400 to do it include the part, is why I want to do it myself 🙃🤔😞
Hey Chavo, thanks for the question. I hear ya, that's about $1000 in labor! You will not need a special tool to drain the lines, they will do that as soon as you crack them open. The tricky part about changing your ABS pump & valve is bleeding the air out of your NEW valves. The easiest way is if you have a "Tech II" there is an ABS bleeding function that will turn your pump on and push all the air out that you can then bleed out of the caliper. I don't have one of those so what I did is went to a dirt road (you can go somewhere with wet pavement or snow and ice too) and got up to about 15 mph then slammed on the brake to activate the ABS pump. If your brakes go from hard to soft like you have air in your lines then your pump did what you wanted it to do and you can go back and bleed your brakes again. Do this a few times at least until your brakes maintain a stiff pedal after an ABS activation event. Hope this helps man and good luck 🍻
Hey when you did this job did you empty the master cylinder of all the brake fluid? If you did, did you need to bench bleed it afterwards?
Thank you for the question Justin. I did drain the master cylinder during the procedure! It is a good idea to bench bleed afterwards. However, I don't have a kit set up so I did the old school "crack the lines open" to bleed method and it worked out for me.
This might be a silly question but do you have to bleed the brake lines after you replace it?
Absolutely 💯
Great job and video!
I have read all the comments and I really appreciate you trying your best to answer questions in the comment section. I have learned a lot by reading the comments and others have also tried to answer. I really appreciate all of this. I have subscribed. Keep up the good work and keep trying your best to answer comments. Sometimes I think, I learn more from the comment sections of UA-cam videos than the actual video itself. Kudos!
Thank you for that John! I agree completely that the comment section of videos is extremely helpful 👍 I know I've learned a lot from subscribers over the years and am 100% appreciative of that. Cheers 🍻
That is exactly what I needed to help me out. GREAT VIDEO!!!!!
FyI. Nice Video and the reason the harness was hard to unplug was not only because it had not unplugged in a while. Some models may have a gooey substance the keeps moisture out because of being on the frame rail. Same substance used on tyranny plugs. A blow dryer will allow you to unplug easier after heating the goo to soften. It's not glue it's a goo
Ah yeah that makes sense. Sweet, thanks for the tip man! 🍻
i have a 2002 yukon XL with no traction control and have no idea where the lines go in, do you have any type of pattern or diagram to show? i don’t want to put the lines in the wrong holes
I dont have a diagram off hand but I do show you where all the lines go in the video
HI I HAVE A CUESTIÓN AFTER YOU TOOK THE PART OF DID YOU NEED TO BLEED THE BRAKES AND WHEN YOU GET A CODE C0110 PUMP MOTOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION IS THAT THE MODULE OR PUMP OR BOTH THANK YOU
Hello Mauricio, and thank you for your question. I did perform a full brake bleed after this procedure. It takes a while to get all the air out of the valves. Using a scan tool like a Tech II which has the ABS bleed function is a great option. I don't have that tool so I took my truck on an old dirt road, drove 10 mph then hit the brakes until the ABS activated and pushed the air out. You'll know it worked if your brakes go from stiff to feeling like their is air in the line (squishy brakes). Then you simply bleed the brakes again then rinse and repeat. BE CAREFUL if you decide to do this. My recommendation is to get a Tech II or a similar tool with the ABS bleed function.
After replacing it, do you just turn the vehicle on and pump the brakes to get the fluid to all the calipers and drums?
I see you responded to someone else asking the same thing haha
@@17PAT17 Hey Patrick, haha, you're right I think I did respond to someone else with the same question. There are two methods I am aware of that will bleed the ABS pump & valve. The first one is to use the ABS bleed function. The other method is what I did: find yourself a dirt road, wet road, or slick road of some sort (and be very careful when you do this) then speed up a little bit, 10-15 mph may do it for you but I'll let you decide what you are comfortable with, then slam on the brakes to initiate skid. This will activate your ABS system and the pulsating pump will clear the air out of the valves. If you brakes go from hard to a bit squishy like there is air in your lines then you know you were successful. Then you simply bleed your brakes as you normally would. You may have to rinse and repeat but for me it only took the one time then one more time after that for good measure. BE SAFE.
This information really gave me some clarification on how to safely remove the brake lines on the unit for my 2001 suburban. Everything is identical except how the 3 mounting bolts go through the frame.
Glad it helped! I think re installing the lines was probably the most nerv racking part because of how easy the aluminum strips. But as long as your take your time getting the first couple threads in then the rest will be gravy. Best of luck! 🍻
Hi thanks for the videos keep them coming if you would. But I've got air I believe trapped in my ABS unit and I've tried using a scanner tool to activate the ABS unit and that didn't work for me. Ive done it with the bleeders open and with the bleeders closed and still cannot get the air out of it. I was wondering if you remove the two bottom rubber caps on the bottom of that ABS unit will that allow you to bleed them right there? Thanks
Hello Dan, you know I'm not to sure about those bottom caps. I'm surprised the bleed function on your scan tool didn't work though. Have you tried taking your truck on an old back road, driving up to 10mph or so then slamming on the brakes to activate the abs pump and forcing the air out?
@@KooshdaakaaGarage yes I used the tool to activate the ABS unit and I've done it quite a few times actually after driving a truck I can tell the difference but I know that there is still some air in the system
@@danknitz9679 hello, working on similar issue, brakes bled, new calipers, no leaks, no pedal feel. First confirm master cylinder is good by blocking off both ports of master cylinder. Pedal shud be hard. Mine was OK.
Next remove two rubber dust caps at bottom of ABS block, insert a diy measuring stick made of coat hanger, have helper depress pedal. If stick moves more than 1/4” ABS block/valves may be bad. Do both sides. Best of luck.
@@ronaldscott781 are you working with a 2000 Chevy Silverado?
300k on my lly, all original brakes. Getting ready to do mine soon too.
Gonna grab new front bearings also, speed sensors...
All original brakes at 300k?? That is pretty dang impressive 👏 it'll feel quite a bit different with the new system in place. Best of luck! I have a new steering gear box I have to toss in but the temp is hitting a low of 7 degrees today... think ill wait this one out and put in led backing lights instead 😬
Hey thanks I'll try it out soon thanks again
Can I have a link to the part you bought?
Hello again KingDEATHCLAW54, I'll put the requested link in this comment but please make sure to read my answer to your last comment first as it may save you quite a bit of money. Ok, so your ABS modulating valve & pump will be a little different than the one on my 1 ton Duramax due to the towing capacity, brake caliper holding power capabilities etc. However, the install procedure is exactly the same. So I found the one that goes specifically to your truck, here it is: amzn.to/3iPHysO Best of luck man! 🍻
Very helpful bro. only vid i found that goes through replacement
Thank you brudda! 🍻
This module will cause the front wheels to lock after braking for a while since everything else was checked and it is fine
Same abs Just look for a video of how to put the motor back in if you take if of it has some spring that doesn’t allow me to put the motor back in the abs box
Good video very good explained thank you 🙂
Thank you Mauricio!
One of the best how to video's, excellent job doing it.
Thank you! 🍻
Did you reprogram new module
I didn't have to. It was plug and play. Didn't know you could reprogram them. Cool
Is there a code how do know if your abs pump is bad
Hello Erik and thank you for your question. If you have a code reader that reads ABS codes, it will throw a code when your ABS light comes on. If your pump goes out you will notice a significant drop in brake pressure. Likewise if your valves are stuck open or part of the way open. Another sign is your brakes lock up and skid instead of activating your ABS pump to pulsate the brake pressure. If you have to pump the brakes to gain pressure then your pump and/or valves maybe failing. Before replacing your ABS pump, I'd double check your ABS sensor to make sure they are not damaged or the hub isn't rusted to the point of lifting your sensor to the point that it does not make magnetic connection. A failed ABS sensor could shut down your whole ABS system when your vehicle can no longer get a reading on wheel speed.
C0267 is the code
@@diesel09 thanks Bobby! ERIK G, this the failed abs pump or failed abs pump wire harness code.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage correct. If code pops up, replace both.
There are two lines which come off of the Master Cylinder. This is because, I have read, the piston is really two pumps, a primary and a back up. There are 4 wheels which we need for braking pressure. 2+4=6 but yet there are only 5 stainless brake line connections on the ABS module. Why is that? Do the pressure supply lines coming out of the Master Cylinder go into a block? If so the bock has to have one way valves. Which line goes to which wheel? My right front caliper is dry as a bone after having replaced, bearings, brake caliper, brake hoses, brake pads and rotors. I loosened the banjo connection and no sign of fluid there after bleeding the system. Also some cars, you can trick the ABS to auto bleed. Never done so but might be a great time saver to the driveway mechanic such as myself.
Hey Rowdy, thanks for the question. It's been a minute since I thought about it but as I recall the 2 master cylinders lines plug into the bottom two spots on the valve (one for front and one for back) the front left and right brake lines have their own spot to mount on the valve and the rear brakes only have one line that feeds back to rear brakes then splits into two for the rear left and right.
As far as which goes to which I can't remember off the top of my head but I know I go over it in the video. I also have a stainless steel brake line install video on a 2000 chevy 2500 on my channel you can cross reference with
Your front right caliper is dry as a bone? Hmmm.. im not 100% sure but your abs valve for the front right brake line might be stuck in the closed position.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage ok I finally found a diagram and identified the lines. As expected two pressure lines come from the Master Cylinder. The far left top lines go to the rear brakes and are distributed by a block. The center line is the right brake line and the right line is the left brake line. So now at least I can trouble shoot the line. I expect what you say is correct and there is a valve body problem.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage I will surely take a peek. And thank you for taking the additional effort to film and edit. This tells me you have respect for others. Thank you for being a teacher too.
So how did you bleed the unit?
A tech II or the like would be the best way to bleed the unit. I don't have one of those so i found some wet pavement, speed up to 5 or 10 mph then slammed on the brakes to activate the ABS pump. You can feel when the air gets pushed out because your brake calipers feel like they have air in them. Then I drove back home, bleed the brakes at the caliper then rinsed and repeat a couple more times to be sure.
Thanks
Replacing entire brake line system today. Does it matter where the Blake lines go into the modulator and do you have a diagram of what goes where
Hello Dan, and good luck today replacing your brake lines! It does matter where your brake lines go in the valve module. The abs module will tell which valves to open, half open, or close depending on the braking situation. The top right is "rear" to the left of that is your "front drivers" to the left of that is "front passenger". The bottom right is "front master cylinder" left of that is "rear master cylinder". Changing the brake lines is not too difficult of a job but it definitely easier if you have an extra set of hands helping feed the lines through. I swapped stainless brake lines on both my 2001 GMC 3500 Crew Cab Long Bed, as well as a 2000 Chevy Silverado 2500 Extended Cab 6.5' bed. I made a video of the Silverado job you can see here for reference if you like: ua-cam.com/video/4WQFwYgTwRA/v-deo.html Best of luck again 🍻
Very helpful tank’s
Thank you for watching Sergio!
Where are the internal bleeder screw on the abs module itself so I can bleed the abs module by itself, without a stupid scanner. 🤔 just show an actual video of how to bleed the abs module by itself , alone , not the calipers , not the master cylinder , just the kelsey hayes abs modual without all your long-winded background of the history of your truck I don't care , I just Wana see where the internal bleeder screws are located and see the module be bleed. Is that really so dam complicated ?
Winge much? It doesn't have one. Like I said in the video you can get a scan tool or hit up a dirt road, wet paved road, etc and slam on the brakes, that's what I did. Its...not...that...big.. of..A...deal...man.
Thanks ,I guess my 03 doesn't have a separate valve I guess it's in the abs module an gana end up shaping it for one from the rusted out 02 lol
Also cross threaded my module= bought a used one from a junk yard...very important turn in by hand.