If you want to learn more about the long motorcycle trips check the rest of the videos in the channel or by my book: "How to become a better long distance motorcycle rider" rtw-adventures.com/books-1.html
Your english is the key of the succes of your YT channel becouse it is understandable for most of people, who learned even basis english. If you spoke clear british english, I (and probably thousands of other pepole) would turn off the channel after first minute.
I was doing to write the same. Unfortunately there are many sad people on earth who are so insecure that exposing others vulnerability is the only way they feel alive. I think they are majority now after I’ve been seeing more internet. Only way to deal with them is to just ignore them. We are not dealing rocket science here. You are sharing your opinion based on your vast experience in a very straight forward way about long distance motorcycle riding. A not very complicated topic. Anyone who complain about uploader’s language skill in such a simple topic has problems. I can say this those who is trashing someone speaking with a lot less English skill than you simply because the topic is so uncomplicated. Viewers like your contents including your pretty impressive English as a second language skill. Anyone who speaks multiple languages know this. Another example that many talk about things they don’t know. Please feel firmly confident about your English skill and ignore all those who say otherwise. I now realize I liked your decisive tone a lot. Your kindness for the unfortunate is reducing your charms.
Do not worry about the accent, in some words it is a bit difficult, but your english it is perfectly understood, your chanel is one of the best in giving advice for motorcycle related issues. 100 points
Please don't worry about your spoken English, it's 100% better than my Bulgarian. Content watchers who criticise probably don't speak English correctly anyway. Another helpful, Intelligent video which will give Adventure riders food for thought when searching out crash bars. All the best & keep up the good work.
Very good comments. I am an engineer and the points you make are the same I have been making for some time now. I especially liked when you mentioned that there should be at least 3 mounting points, and that these are best on the frame. I also add that the more the mounting points, the less the load dumped into the frame or the engine. I hate crash bars, myself, but I hate damage to my bike even more.
I actually really like your English, the way you describe something is always clear. I think maybe because you struggle to say it, you end up doing a better job than a native English speaker, because you have to think so clearly about what you want top say, and often frame a sentence in multiple ways to cover your point. The outcome is that its easy for us to understand it. And that's the most important thing and why we watch!
Crash bars are also handy when you are tying your bike on a ferry or a tow truck, makes things really easy and helps you avoiding nasty scrachts on the wheels. Also you can tie auxiliary lights, or more bags! :D
My tie-down hooks have lost the plastic dip coating. To avoid metal to metal contact, I made 2 loops from (1inch / 25mm) flat webb from an outdoor mountain adventure company. I cut 2 pieces about 2 feet long and tie together with a water knot. Now loop them around the frame, fork tube, handle bar, etc, and no scratches. They come in handy for other uses too; setting up tent/hammock, temporary handles to lift a fallen bike, & whatever else. They weigh almost nohing and take up very little space.
Some dumbbells pulled in front of me,I had to locked 🔒 both brakes in the rain ,the bike went 👇 nothing happened to me or bike except floor board 1,😊easy fix
There’s nothing wrong with your English, if anything, you make it more descriptive and understanding to more novice audience- thank you. (Sort of remind me of Ross Perot ;).
Crash bars must protect NOT the motorcycle / motorcycle engine . Crash bars must protect the FEET in the accident . When i go down , i could`t care less about the bike : all i care - my feet . Bars should be perpendicular to the engine - O or C- shaped bars , not parallel !! , and should protrude to the each side at least for 8, 9 inches . I went down on a slow , some 20m/h speed on Honda NC700 , on a snow , and stupid parallel to the engine SW-Motech crash bars did NOTHING to protect my feet . Motorcycle just clipped down and crushed like macaroni my ankle - All three bones right above the ankle are broken . First thing i do when get back on a bike - will throw away those "crash bars " and install C-shaped strong crash bars . Very nice channel .
As usual, very peactical, no BS advice. FYI, your english is not a problem. I understand everything you're saying, and your meaning is clear enough. It's more likely that any misunderstandings between you and your viewers are the result of poor listening, but that's just my opinion. 'Love the vlog. Your advice has saved me much trial and error. Keep it up. Jase
One issue with crash bars is if you drop the bike going slow then they are fine to protect the engine and panels, the big problem comes if you have a higher speed dismount, say the classic low side, if you lose the front and the bike slides along on its side. If the crash bars slide down the road smoothly then that is good but if they catch on something like a rock or a tree root the bike could flip up in the air and do lots more damage, a high side if you prefer. Sometimes it is better to have something minor break than have it rigid so there is no give in it. Same sort of thing they build into hard panniers in the event of a slide, the pannier will break off its mounts to prevent the dreaded high side. Nothing is perfect, it all becomes a compromise.
You are right about the high side risk being likely increased with crash bars if you loose the bike at highspeed offroad. On the other side the general rule is let the bike go when you fall and with the crashbars hopefully the rider will worry less about the bike and let it go earlier for increased safety.
Absolutely agree with you, it all depends on the bike! I have a ktm 690 smcr and the only thing that i have is radiator protector and slid plate. Everything else is unnecessary. In case of a crash, most of the damage is to handlebars, radiator. While one of my previous bikes, Moto guzzi got instant cylinder-head damage during slight fall :D
First, your accent is NOT a problem. I find your comments on different bike subjects to be very accurate, practical and logical and I agree 99% of the time (nobody is perfect xcept me). Too many other "expert" video makers tend to overcomplicate many aspects of riding just for the enjoyment that some of us want without spending another 1,000 Euros on equipment after buying the motorcycle.
No need to apologize for your english. In fact the way that you speak is a large part of what makes your videos so good. Keep up the good work. I ride a GSA and I would never ever consider going the corner store for a loaf of bread with crash bars and all of the other protections that I have amassed on my bike. There are a few reasons for that, simply put, I crash a lot and that is not to say that I am still learning how to ride but more in the way of how I ride. The same lengths that I have gone to in order to protect my bike are the same lengths that I go through to put on my riding gear. I'm an offroad guy and I crash a lot.
Hey new viewer here, I have a Tenere 250cc and I ride about 400km on road per week for a few months to go to work. I intalled a Givi protection bar and it worked just fine last week when I crash. They held all the lateral impact from the engine and clutch to the tank. The bike is safe! Thaks for your videos! Cheers from Brazil
I havent realized you where italian until now, my nonna and nonno came to brazil in 48 and stablished their life in san paolo. Im a fan already great videos. Ciao
On my Suzuki V-strom, my crashbars have saved me $$$ numerous times: they have saved my fairings (very expensive to replace) when the bike has dropped, and it will drop when touring. I would suggest that if one only does highway riding etc... then perhaps not, but even then, soft asphalt and soft dirt when parked will cause issues as well. I have mototech crashbars btw. They've never bent, but I've had to polish and paint them a few times.
hello from the uk . dont worry about your english , the way you explain in length is better than the sort answer . ive been watching your video for sometime now. me and my wife are going to buy the yamaha 660 and travel europe we cant wait . hopefully summer 2018. anyway keep the video's coming i really enjoy watching them.
Excellent choice. My good lady and I travel thru Europe on our 660 and it's great. Carries us both all day anywhere on a tank of fuel. Very strong frame too so the extra weight is no problem. Enjoy it!
Please do not apologize for your English skills. Your observations and analysis are always informative and interesting! Thanks so much for your great videos! :-)
good subject, nice presentation - i am in the UK, i have a touring motorcycle, i have crash bars but the main reason is to mount lights on them to help me be seen. this is what you are saying really, to try to avoid an accident in the first place.
Each bike has its own needs and luckily ours need very little above the standard protection. Personally I use the yamaha alloy bash plate and puig lower protection bars, which copy the now unavailable yamaha bars. If yamaha think it needs no more who am I too argue? Light is right. Excellent point re the handlebars too. Happy travels.
This video got me thinking. I rode a gs1200 normally so i downsized to a gs800 and i feel so much more comfortable like you said. Its lighter and thinner and more nimble. My next bike i think will be even smaller i believe i could go even less but i still want the comfort for distance. Thankyou again :)
Good crash bars like Touratech (I must admit too expensive) works vey well and I think is a must if you are doing many off road travel.. It really protect the motorbike and your leg. I have seen it many times. Thanks for your advices anyway. It is very useful as always.
I have dropped my bike 2 times now! I am a old rider coming back! 30 year sins i ride . whit out my crash bars, my wallet wood be thin! So my answer to your question, YES!
kolle reke me too. I’m just coming back to motorcycles again after 30 your absence as well. First thing I did was put crash bars on it and I’m very very happy I did.
Your English speaking is brilliant absolutely 10/10 no problems understanding what your saying. You have a brilliant way of explaining everything . I wish I could speak Bulgarian half as good as you speak English
You have seen me and my multi 950! The crashbars have saved me from alot of money to replace the plastik . I understand your way of saving veight!But this bikes are bilt to have a pillion around 90 kg on the back! The weight issue are only hven you fall and must raise the mc upp! After 14 days i ride my bike like a moped! Roundabouts are my favorits now! I lean like i am the doktor! And i feel good!
You've made very good points.... I just recently slide down on my cruiser bike, and all the impacts were absorbed by the Engine guard, the crash did not affect any parts of the motorcycle, except some paint scratches on the muffler shield and engine guard itself, the engine guard was made by my motorcycle manufacturer, so they can carry a 400-lb bike easily. Moral of the story... don't just buy any third party accessories, without really studying its pros and cons, its actual application and use, including durability!
Got Heed crashbars, skidplate and centerstand for my vstrom 2 weeks ago an they looks very solid and as far as l can see protect my tank and headlight plastick. But i guess the crashbars hold the skidplate firmly in place so my very exposed engien get protection. Guess the rider need to loose 5kg now😊.
your way of thinking is absolutely right..it's important that you deliver your knowledge and thoughts.. all the new drivers should carefully listen to you. than you!
I used to ride a Honda SL350. It was a fun bike to ride, on or off road. I ran it all over California. The first time I road in gravel, was also my first time off road. As soon as I felt the tires wandering around, I stiffened up, and quickly went over, with the bike pinning me to the ground. I watched my friend ride out of sight, and then reappear soon after. I noticed that he was wobbling precariously, and after he stopped, I realised that it was because he was laughing so hard. I hated soft surfaces. They were miserable to ride on until someone gave me the advice to just relax, and let the back tire do what it would do. I decided to try that out, and it worked. I never dumped the bike again, though I did drop it a few times, and I learned to enjoy that floating feeling you experience on gravel. Would crash bars likely hold the bike off the ground enough that your leg would be less likely to be pinned under the bike?
One of the problems with current motorcycles is the folding foot pegs. The old system of a solid bar running underneath the bike gave excellent protection to the engine and gear/brake pedals. Sure it would get bent but it was an easy job to pull it off and straighten it. Also the steel brake an clutch levers would just bend and could be straightened.
There is literally no reason to dislike this video :/ I really don't understand some people Just Hatin' on everybody to the point they have to press that dislike button 0_o U MAD BRO?
I've always mounted crash protection and I bother pretty much everyone about mounting them. After all, can of black paint and some sand paper are cheaper than new engine, new fairing or at very least clutch/stator cover
Heres a thought. An adventure motorcycle,with an old style frame,like the old Norton featherbed. The two down tubes coming down from the (steering) headstock would be made wider than the engine,nothing sticks out,so nothing can be broken,put panels on the side,(you cant see the engine) its fully enclosed.Its water cooled.The enclosed space could house any extra equipment your adventure may need.Air going through the radiator comes out hot,redirect this onto the rider,for cold conditions.Now gather some MC mates and beer,discuss,comment.
Clear and precise explanation and illustrations. Very helpful advice and information. I appreciate and enjoy your videos. Thanks for your efforts. Cheers from a new subscriber in Canada.
I love your language.please feel free. 6 months ago I had an accident with Honda NC 700x. I hit The bars. I can clearly say that givi crash bars didn't protect my left leg. I still go to physical therapy and there are many months to cover. The protection depends on the model and brand.
I can speak from experience about the BMW boxers. Took a spill in a sudden hail storm and ground a nice little hole in the valve cover, enough for most of the oil to drain out. Luckily (??) it was so icy that the bike and I just slid gradually to a stop with relatively minor damage to the bike and none to me. Even my riding clothes were unscratched! Valve cover was easy and relatively cheap to replace - going down in the dry would no doubt do much more damage.
Hi! Don't worry about "proper English", it's good. The more important issue is the quality of what you say! You statements are understandable and the messages are clear. Keep it up, I enjoy the information you provide.
I use the stock Triumph crash bars on my 800. Nothing more. I also mount foldable cruise pegs on them so I can relax and get another foot position on long highway sections. Again, another great video.
Thank you for the video, good contents as always! I agree with everything, except the recommendation about a larger and more robust handlebar. We need to minimize the damages on the bike most critical and expensive parts. In case o a side crash, let the handlebar absorb the forces and bend if needed. It's a cheap component and very easy to substitute, even in remote regions. A very resistant handlebar will transfer forces to your fork and ball bearings. In a serius crash the weakest component always bends or brakes first, let the handlebar to be the weakest point. Great videos, thumbs up!!
Agree about the logic for handlebar, but when you have it you will feel it like new bike. Also, even the weak handlebar twist it will still transfer some force to the forks. So the question is what you going to choose - better handling and control or possible crash and the damages after that.
For my boxer engined BMW R1150GS ADV, Bars and guards are essential to protecting the engine heads from getting cracked and have saved the engine many times.
In USA or Canada there are hundreds of accents. Everyone speaks differently and they understand each other. Grammar is more important than accent. Your grammar is perfect.
Very good advice and well explained. I looked at many engine protectors before I found one that didn't utilize the engine case bolts to mount.. Those might damage your engine with just a tip-over. Thank-you.
Perfect timing, thanks! I was just looking into buying crash bars to go with the bike I'm looking at buying... might get sliders instead now. And, I understood your English, the accent is cool ;)
Hey, my opinion for sliders is: they safe your bike for the first hit on the ground. After it will break and ur engine is on the ground. I saw that two times. Crash bars is mutch better I realise it after my crash. Just my meaning. Thank a lot for your Videos and dont worry about your enlish.
Coming from Scotland let me tell you your English is fine, l find it hard to understand a lot of native speakers, maybe due to my having Aspergers, a form of Autism, you explain things very well
I once fell at 40km/h on my older Hornet 600, no crash protection. Scratched the motor carter, damaged the rear plastics...If i had the protection, no damage would've happened. I had the crash bars on the Versys 650, protected the bike when my friend dropped it at stand stil. Now, on the Africa Twin, i puchased the Heed Bunker crash bars to substitute the OEM weak one. Yes, it's 10kg, but the bike itself is already heavy, and it only adds about 5-6kgs overall when you remove the oem one. Considering how expensive it could be to repair the bike, i prefer to always have crash bars. And riding skills will do nothing against slippery road surface, nor electronics like ABS, TC will save you: you will go down regardless.
First, Pavlin, there's nothing wrong with your English. Being from California, I sometimes have trouble understanding "locals", so, if I can easily understand you, you have nothing to worry about. As for engine/bike protection, while I'm completely in agreement with your "sometimes yes, and sometimes no" answer, I'd like to add that more protection is always better than less. No one ever 'plans' on crashing, no one ever 'plans' I sliding, but, just like insurance, it's a "preventative measure". Better to have "protection" than to not...and better to have too much, as opposed to not enough. The 5 bikes I owned prior to my last bike (2006 Suzuki SV650S) had no added protection, including my third bike (1999 Kawasaki KLR650). However, because of a minor accident involving my fifth bike (1999 Suzuki SV650 "naked"), where a woman side-swiped my right-rear side, causing me to go down, that's what helped lead me to adding some protection to my sixth bike. Having purchased my seventh bike a little over 3 months ago (2017 Yamaha FJ-09, aka MT-09 Tr Acer), I decided that "maximum protection" should be the best route to take. So far, I've installed the beefy GIVI Engine Guard Bars, front & rear axle spools/sliders, side case racks (technically, while not intended as "protection", they do provide some), and s radiator grill. Currently on its way to me is an SW-MOTECH skid plate, which will be followed in the coming months by SW-MOTECH KOBRA handguards w/ turn signals, additional lighting (driving/fog lights, plus additional LED lighting on the lower forks), and reflective striping on the wheels & body panels. Most people only seem to consider "physical" protection, which is great if you get into an accident...but, what a lot of people sometimes forget is the "protection" that can help in avoiding accidents in the first place, such as things that make your bike moves visible to other drivers.
Nice, i was a bit concerned for my bike (Voxan Scrambler, bike no more contructed) but after looking at your video and remembering my first trip on Road40 in Argentina (and the few times i went down) i have been reassured, looking for that 28mm handle bar and handle bar protections instead...
I'm an engineer with master degree, when you fall with the "solid crash bar" you will bend the main frame, your expensive motorbike won't feel comfortable anymore. A good crash bar is one that absorbs impact energy, protecting your expensive bike and yourself. after that you can buy a new crash bar.
I had sliders on my 2006 z1000 that saved me from losing my leg in a crash when a car t-boned me. The slider to the bring of the impact and protected my leg thankfully.
The Transalp 700 crashes well too :) silly story - I did buy crash bars when i first got it, before I had it on the road just because I was all excited and buying it presents, but i had removed them while i was servicing it, and didnt have the time to put them on, and the next morning I slide and crash into a truck, and it did amazingly, the fairings are so strong. After I put the bars back on, i dropped it to see how it would do with them (CAREFULLY! :P ) and it does fine too :) Shit luck is that I now have scratched fairings for some stupid luck -.-' Man i understand you perfectly, no need to worry so much about that :) Speaking about handlebars taking a lot of the force - when I crashed, my forks got misaligned - they're not inverted forks :'( It wasn't a problem, it's a 5 min job to fix and I did it there because I have tools on me, but still, it's a pain. Do you have any thoughts/experience with fork braces? loved the video man, keep it up!
Your most salient point came in the very last piece of advice " You will feel a significant difference with you riding skills, if you just buy a lighter bike ". Many GS riders are there for the show-off factor.
Tenere 660 have good tank covers that cost less than crash bars in case of modest damage. Touratech crash bars for xtz660 really suck. But Givi offers better protection if you accept the weight increase.
'My bike crashes very well' Brilliant. I use to say that to people about my 1979 Z650, which was pretty much bullet proof, but sadly the same could not be said for me. I've gotten better as time has passed, but it's just reassuring to know that some other people will _admit_ to falling off a lot too 🥰 (Hence why I'm here to try and discover if I should buy some crash bars for my Kawasaki Versys 650 [stick with what you know 😉])
My friend hit a deer and the crash bar kept the deer from hitting his leg for the most part .. I hit a Deer with my Yamaha FZ-07 square in the Belly right under the headlight .. at 50 MPH .. it bent for forks . radiator ect.. It's hard to find crash bars for FZ MT-07 but not for MT-09 .. I liked Givi best .. out of stock in USA Ordered from Italy .. I may try to attach a fairing style wind break to my crash bars.. also mount running lights to them.. can also attach small luggage to them
I have dropped my bikes several times, always at low speed, and nothing ever happened to the bike. But depending on the bike, I would want crash bars to protect my feet! I fell over twice with my previous bike. The first time I was trying to go round the corner too fast and there was loose grit on the road, the second time I was trying to avoid a serious accident on a muddy road. It was only 125cc bike, so not heavy at all in normal circumstances, but both times my leg got pinned under and in that half lying position I had no strength of pushing the bike off me: I had to wait until some kind soul came along and helped me out. It was really embarrassing! I fell over on rather busy junctions so while it was dangerous to lie there, at least I was lucky enough to be seen - had I fallen in some quiet country road, things might have been much worse... I also have one experience of being pushed against an exhaust pipe (by a drunk) wearing only shorts: instant 3rd degree burn and a scar that took a year to heal. So I know how lucky I have been so far for not falling over on the wrong side... Therefore I figure the best defence against getting a serious burn or getting stuck under the bike, or both, might be a crash bar. Any other suggestions?
I feel that the crash bars on my GS:es are to protect the bike from scratches when dropping the bike while maneuvering at slow speeds, nothing more. The engine block is very strong, much stronger than the crash bars, even when the crash bars are mounted properly.
I was born and raised in Belarus, and later moved to USA. i can say that your English more understandable than most american people!!! Dont worry and make more great videos!
Hi Pavel, for many of us, not native speaking, is much better to understand when the person who talk is also not native. The reason to understand me well is because I use much smaller number of words and try to say it properly, but my native language don't really aloud me to do it and they sound very similar to your understandings on it.
I don't have a left leg (I do have a prosthetic) so if my bike falls left there's no way my Rheo Knee is going to lock out fast enough to catch the bike, so for me they are a "must have". However, ignoring that, I feel that if you go down while moving you are going to have to fix something and it is far better to replace some bars and repair some cosmetics than have to deal with a cracked block. Worth noting that if I had had some bars on the DT250 I took my big hit on there's a good chance I might have kept the leg.
If you want to learn more about the long motorcycle trips check the rest of the videos in the channel or by my book: "How to become a better long distance motorcycle rider" rtw-adventures.com/books-1.html
Your English is good, no need to apologize. Thanks for sharing wisdom and experience! 👍🏽
+1 on that!
Agreed. Thanks for the video!
Your english is the key of the succes of your YT channel becouse it is understandable for most of people, who learned even basis english. If you spoke clear british english, I (and probably thousands of other pepole) would turn off the channel after first minute.
Your speaking is just fine.
The background music is pretty bad. Wish you did not use any background music.
I was doing to write the same. Unfortunately there are many sad people on earth who are so insecure that exposing others vulnerability is the only way they feel alive. I think they are majority now after I’ve been seeing more internet.
Only way to deal with them is to just ignore them.
We are not dealing rocket science here. You are sharing your opinion based on your vast experience in a very straight forward way about long distance motorcycle riding. A not very complicated topic. Anyone who complain about uploader’s language skill in such a simple topic has problems. I can say this those who is trashing someone speaking with a lot less English skill than you simply because the topic is so uncomplicated.
Viewers like your contents including your pretty impressive English as a second language skill. Anyone who speaks multiple languages know this. Another example that many talk about things they don’t know.
Please feel firmly confident about your English skill and ignore all those who say otherwise.
I now realize I liked your decisive tone a lot. Your kindness for the unfortunate is reducing your charms.
Ur English is easily understandable and content is solid..no worries there..
Your English speaking in perfectly fine and your tips and advice are Pro, thanks for taking the time to make and upload these videos :)
You are welcome any time my friend!
2:52"I talked so much and said nothing, like a real politician" hahaha very good
I laughed at that!
But at least we can trust Pavlin.
Do not worry about the accent, in some words it is a bit difficult, but your english it is perfectly understood, your chanel is one of the best in giving advice for motorcycle related issues.
100 points
Please don't worry about your spoken English, it's 100% better than my Bulgarian. Content watchers who criticise probably don't speak English correctly anyway. Another helpful, Intelligent video which will give Adventure riders food for thought when searching out crash bars. All the best & keep up the good work.
Happy travels for you as well! Thanks for watching!
Please put. the sub tittles in.english
Very good comments. I am an engineer and the points you make are the same I have been making for some time now. I especially liked when you mentioned that there should be at least 3 mounting points, and that these are best on the frame. I also add that the more the mounting points, the less the load dumped into the frame or the engine. I hate crash bars, myself, but I hate damage to my bike even more.
Pavlin, no problems whatsoever with your communication skills. I like it that way. No BS. As usual, good and informative. Thank you.
Thx for the perfect words again. Like in every other of your videos! Your english is pretty good and easy to understand!
I actually really like your English, the way you describe something is always clear. I think maybe because you struggle to say it, you end up doing a better job than a native English speaker, because you have to think so clearly about what you want top say, and often frame a sentence in multiple ways to cover your point. The outcome is that its easy for us to understand it. And that's the most important thing and why we watch!
Well, I am glad that you see it that way and of course to find the videos useful. Thanks!
Crash bars are also handy when you are tying your bike on a ferry or a tow truck, makes things really easy and helps you avoiding nasty scrachts on the wheels. Also you can tie auxiliary lights, or more bags! :D
Yes, they are also very useful when you have to lift it from the ground.
My tie-down hooks have lost the plastic dip coating. To avoid metal to metal contact, I made 2 loops from (1inch / 25mm) flat webb from an outdoor mountain adventure company.
I cut 2 pieces about 2 feet long and tie together with a water knot. Now loop them around the frame, fork tube, handle bar, etc, and no scratches.
They come in handy for other uses too; setting up tent/hammock, temporary handles to lift a fallen bike, & whatever else. They weigh almost nohing and take up very little space.
For me your english is the best english i've ever listened. I can undestand everything. Greatings from Brazil.
Crash guards are most important upgrade. Last weekend i hit a deer and the rock embankment. They gave enough space to not crush my leg/knee.
Some dumbbells pulled in front of me,I had to locked 🔒 both brakes in the rain ,the bike went 👇 nothing happened to me or bike except floor board 1,😊easy fix
There’s nothing wrong with your English, if anything, you make it more descriptive and understanding to more novice audience- thank you. (Sort of remind me of Ross Perot ;).
Is this Ross Perot ...the chicken man of Texas ...
Crash bars must protect NOT the motorcycle / motorcycle engine . Crash bars must protect the FEET in the accident . When i go down , i could`t care less about the bike : all i care - my feet . Bars should be perpendicular to the engine - O or C- shaped bars , not parallel !! , and should protrude to the each side at least for 8, 9 inches . I went down on a slow , some 20m/h speed on Honda NC700 , on a snow , and stupid parallel to the engine SW-Motech crash bars did NOTHING to protect my feet . Motorcycle just clipped down and crushed like macaroni my ankle - All three bones right above the ankle are broken . First thing i do when get back on a bike - will throw away those "crash bars " and install C-shaped strong crash bars .
Very nice channel .
I am really sorry about the accident you have! I hope that you will recover quick and will jump on the bike again.
Another practical episode of advice from someone with real-world experience and not a product to sell. I'll use your advice for my 640 ADV.
As usual, very peactical, no BS advice. FYI, your english is not a problem. I understand everything you're saying, and your meaning is clear enough. It's more likely that any misunderstandings between you and your viewers are the result of poor listening, but that's just my opinion. 'Love the vlog. Your advice has saved me much trial and error. Keep it up.
Jase
One issue with crash bars is if you drop the bike going slow then they are fine to protect the engine and panels, the big problem comes if you have a higher speed dismount, say the classic low side, if you lose the front and the bike slides along on its side.
If the crash bars slide down the road smoothly then that is good but if they catch on something like a rock or a tree root the bike could flip up in the air and do lots more damage, a high side if you prefer.
Sometimes it is better to have something minor break than have it rigid so there is no give in it.
Same sort of thing they build into hard panniers in the event of a slide, the pannier will break off its mounts to prevent the dreaded high side.
Nothing is perfect, it all becomes a compromise.
Correct, as I said they could be very useful, but also useless. Thanks for adding it!
You are right about the high side risk being likely increased with crash bars if you loose the bike at highspeed offroad.
On the other side the general rule is let the bike go when you fall and with the crashbars hopefully the rider will worry less about the bike and let it go earlier for increased safety.
Your English is absolutely powerful. I appreciate your videos.
Thanks Brandon!
Pavlin, your english is good and the advices are clear and top notch!! Keep doing the good job and ride safe!!!
I will, thanks!
Absolutely agree with you, it all depends on the bike! I have a ktm 690 smcr and the only thing that i have is radiator protector and slid plate. Everything else is unnecessary. In case of a crash, most of the damage is to handlebars, radiator. While one of my previous bikes, Moto guzzi got instant cylinder-head damage during slight fall :D
First, your accent is NOT a problem. I find your comments on different bike subjects to be very accurate, practical and logical and I agree 99% of the time (nobody is perfect xcept me). Too many other "expert" video makers tend to overcomplicate many aspects of riding just for the enjoyment that some of us want without spending another 1,000 Euros on equipment after buying the motorcycle.
Thanks for taking the time!
No need to apologize for your english. In fact the way that you speak is a large part of what makes your videos so good. Keep up the good work. I ride a GSA and I would never ever consider going the corner store for a loaf of bread with crash bars and all of the other protections that I have amassed on my bike. There are a few reasons for that, simply put, I crash a lot and that is not to say that I am still learning how to ride but more in the way of how I ride. The same lengths that I have gone to in order to protect my bike are the same lengths that I go through to put on my riding gear. I'm an offroad guy and I crash a lot.
I perfectly understand you.
Your English is very easy to understand! Keep on making the best adventure videos on UA-cam!
I will, thanks!
Hey new viewer here, I have a Tenere 250cc and I ride about 400km on road per week for a few months to go to work. I intalled a Givi protection bar and it worked just fine last week when I crash. They held all the lateral impact from the engine and clutch to the tank. The bike is safe! Thaks for your videos! Cheers from Brazil
If it's works for you than use it.
I havent realized you where italian until now, my nonna and nonno came to brazil in 48 and stablished their life in san paolo. Im a fan already great videos. Ciao
On my Suzuki V-strom, my crashbars have saved me $$$ numerous times: they have saved my fairings (very expensive to replace) when the bike has dropped, and it will drop when touring. I would suggest that if one only does highway riding etc... then perhaps not, but even then, soft asphalt and soft dirt when parked will cause issues as well. I have mototech crashbars btw. They've never bent, but I've had to polish and paint them a few times.
Well explained my friend. I use Heed bars from Poland on my Tiger 800. Well made, sturdy , and fairly easy to fit.
not biker yet, but find Your videos very informative. reason above all as usual. thank You!
hello from the uk . dont worry about your english , the way you explain in length is better than the sort answer .
ive been watching your video for sometime now. me and my wife are going to buy the yamaha 660 and travel europe we cant wait . hopefully summer 2018. anyway keep the video's coming i really enjoy watching them.
I will. Thanks for the kind words! Good luck on your adventures!
Excellent choice. My good lady and I travel thru Europe on our 660 and it's great. Carries us both all day anywhere on a tank of fuel. Very strong frame too so the extra weight is no problem. Enjoy it!
Thanks for the replay. And I can't wait for the adventure. Safe riding everyone
Please do not apologize for your English skills. Your observations and analysis are always informative and interesting! Thanks so much for your great videos! :-)
Thanks Tom!
Excellent video, I was thoroughly confused after watching 100 videos. Thanks for taking the time to address this and your English is great!
Glad it helped!
good subject, nice presentation - i am in the UK, i have a touring motorcycle, i have crash bars but the main reason is to mount lights on them to help me be seen. this is what you are saying really, to try to avoid an accident in the first place.
Exactly! Preventive riding mode is way better than any lights!
Each bike has its own needs and luckily ours need very little above the standard protection. Personally I use the yamaha alloy bash plate and puig lower protection bars, which copy the now unavailable yamaha bars. If yamaha think it needs no more who am I too argue? Light is right.
Excellent point re the handlebars too.
Happy travels.
This video got me thinking. I rode a gs1200 normally so i downsized to a gs800 and i feel so much more comfortable like you said. Its lighter and thinner and more nimble. My next bike i think will be even smaller i believe i could go even less but i still want the comfort for distance. Thankyou again :)
Good crash bars like Touratech (I must admit too expensive) works vey well and I think is a must if you are doing many off road travel.. It really protect the motorbike and your leg. I have seen it many times. Thanks for your advices anyway. It is very useful as always.
I have dropped my bike 2 times now! I am a old rider coming back! 30 year sins i ride . whit out my crash bars, my wallet wood be thin! So my answer to your question, YES!
kolle reke me too. I’m just coming back to motorcycles again after 30 your absence as well. First thing I did was put crash bars on it and I’m very very happy I did.
McrRider sending props to Mr Moto Adv. Both guys educating rider community to ride safe. Thanks and CHEERS for all you do, wh ev side of the Atlantic
Your English speaking is brilliant absolutely 10/10 no problems understanding what your saying.
You have a brilliant way of explaining everything .
I wish I could speak Bulgarian half as good as you speak English
Always spot on in giving the best advice on motorcycling!
You have seen me and my multi 950! The crashbars have saved me from alot of money to replace the plastik . I understand your way of saving veight!But this bikes are bilt to have a pillion around 90 kg on the back! The weight issue are only hven you fall and must raise the mc upp! After 14 days i ride my bike like a moped! Roundabouts are my favorits now! I lean like i am the doktor! And i feel good!
You've made very good points.... I just recently slide down on my cruiser bike, and all the impacts were absorbed by the Engine guard, the crash did not affect any parts of the motorcycle, except some paint scratches on the muffler shield and engine guard itself, the engine guard was made by my motorcycle manufacturer, so they can carry a 400-lb bike easily. Moral of the story... don't just buy any third party accessories, without really studying its pros and cons, its actual application and use, including durability!
Very well said, thanks Ed!
Got Heed crashbars, skidplate and centerstand for my vstrom 2 weeks ago an they looks very solid and as far as l can see protect my tank and headlight plastick. But i guess the crashbars hold the skidplate firmly in place so my very exposed engien get protection. Guess the rider need to loose 5kg now😊.
As usual, words of wisdom. Clear and concise. Great video, Pavlin!
Thank you my friend!
The background makes it harder to hear. Please stop adding music.
Congratulations ! You managed to reach all the essential points of this topic, being understood by everyone.
Glad you think so!
your way of thinking is absolutely right..it's important that you deliver your knowledge and thoughts.. all the new drivers should carefully listen to you. than you!
This advice is right on the money! As always. Thanks for taking the time !
Thanks man!
I used to ride a Honda SL350. It was a fun bike to ride, on or off road. I ran it all over California. The first time I road in gravel, was also my first time off road. As soon as I felt the tires wandering around, I stiffened up, and quickly went over, with the bike pinning me to the ground. I watched my friend ride out of sight, and then reappear soon after. I noticed that he was wobbling precariously, and after he stopped, I realised that it was because he was laughing so hard.
I hated soft surfaces. They were miserable to ride on until someone gave me the advice to just relax, and let the back tire do what it would do. I decided to try that out, and it worked. I never dumped the bike again, though I did drop it a few times, and I learned to enjoy that floating feeling you experience on gravel.
Would crash bars likely hold the bike off the ground enough that your leg would be less likely to be pinned under the bike?
They might helps in some cases...
The way you explain everything in your videos is pretty good and practical, keep it up thanks
I am glad that you found it useful!
One of the problems with current motorcycles is the folding foot pegs. The old system of a solid bar running underneath the bike gave excellent protection to the engine and gear/brake pedals. Sure it would get bent but it was an easy job to pull it off and straighten it. Also the steel brake an clutch levers would just bend and could be straightened.
Yes, there is no perfect world. One on the cost of another.
Most underrated channel
Help me to share it to more people...
Motorcycle Adventures definitely.
There is literally no reason to dislike this video :/ I really don't understand some people Just Hatin' on everybody to the point they have to press that dislike button 0_o U MAD BRO?
Don't even worry about it. They might not like me, my t-shirt, the wall behind me, the pillows, the accent or the way I talk.
It is a common mistake of drunk people. They are too confused and they think they click "Dis-I-like" button.
Congratulations for your english and the detailed talk! Keep riding! Best regards from Greece!
Thanks!
I've always mounted crash protection and I bother pretty much everyone about mounting them. After all, can of black paint and some sand paper are cheaper than new engine, new fairing or at very least clutch/stator cover
English is my 1st language and I understand you perfectly. Cant see a need on lightweight dual sport. But case savers a must. Skid plate too...
True
Heres a thought. An adventure motorcycle,with an old style frame,like the old Norton featherbed. The two down tubes coming down from the (steering) headstock would be made wider than the engine,nothing sticks out,so nothing can be broken,put panels on the side,(you cant see the engine) its fully enclosed.Its water cooled.The enclosed space could house any extra equipment your adventure may need.Air going through the radiator comes out hot,redirect this onto the rider,for cold conditions.Now gather some MC mates and beer,discuss,comment.
Clear and precise explanation and illustrations. Very helpful advice and information. I appreciate and enjoy your videos. Thanks for your efforts. Cheers from a new subscriber in Canada.
Thank you so much! Enjoy the rest of the videos and always ride safe!
your english is clearly understood, better than mine. and i like your accent and spirit...
Thanks, man!
I love your language.please feel free. 6 months ago I had an accident with Honda NC 700x. I hit The bars. I can clearly say that givi crash bars didn't protect my left leg. I still go to physical therapy and there are many months to cover. The protection depends on the model and brand.
I am sorry to heard that! I hope that you will be able to recover fast and jump on the bike again. Thanks for watching and commend it my friend!
You.spoke well in your explanation of the crash bars and of the rest of the parts.Thanks for the video Sir.
You are welcome anytime!
I can speak from experience about the BMW boxers. Took a spill in a sudden hail storm and ground a nice little hole in the valve cover, enough for most of the oil to drain out. Luckily (??) it was so icy that the bike and I just slid gradually to a stop with relatively minor damage to the bike and none to me. Even my riding clothes were unscratched! Valve cover was easy and relatively cheap to replace - going down in the dry would no doubt do much more damage.
Yes, as I said in the video for some bikes the crash bars are must.
The worst part was standing in the rain for a few hours and the 200 mile tow back home ;(
Hi! Don't worry about "proper English", it's good. The more important issue is the quality of what you say! You statements are understandable and the messages are clear. Keep it up, I enjoy the information you provide.
Thanks for taking the time Mike!
I use the stock Triumph crash bars on my 800. Nothing more. I also mount foldable cruise pegs on them so I can relax and get another foot position on long highway sections. Again, another great video.
Triumph crash bars are good. They are very solid.
Thank you for the video, good contents as always! I agree with everything, except the recommendation about a larger and more robust handlebar. We need to minimize the damages on the bike most critical and expensive parts. In case o a side crash, let the handlebar absorb the forces and bend if needed. It's a cheap component and very easy to substitute, even in remote regions. A very resistant handlebar will transfer forces to your fork and ball bearings. In a serius crash the weakest component always bends or brakes first, let the handlebar to be the weakest point. Great videos, thumbs up!!
Agree about the logic for handlebar, but when you have it you will feel it like new bike. Also, even the weak handlebar twist it will still transfer some force to the forks. So the question is what you going to choose - better handling and control or possible crash and the damages after that.
Beautiful video Pavlo thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with the rest of the world 🌎
My pleasure!
Nice video. Well explained and easily understood 👍
Glad it was helpful!
For my boxer engined BMW R1150GS ADV, Bars and guards are essential to protecting the engine heads from getting cracked and have saved the engine many times.
Yes, they are, as I said in the video.
In USA or Canada there are hundreds of accents. Everyone speaks differently and they understand each other. Grammar is more important than accent. Your grammar is perfect.
Cool!
Very good advice and well explained. I looked at many engine protectors before I found one that didn't utilize the engine case bolts to mount.. Those might damage your engine with just a tip-over. Thank-you.
Correct, I will never buy one of these.
thank you for this video, and you english is fine, better than most living in the USA....
Thanks, man!
Perfect timing, thanks! I was just looking into buying crash bars to go with the bike I'm looking at buying... might get sliders instead now. And, I understood your English, the accent is cool ;)
Hey, my opinion for sliders is: they safe your bike for the first hit on the ground. After it will break and ur engine is on the ground. I saw that two times. Crash bars is mutch better I realise it after my crash. Just my meaning.
Thank a lot for your Videos and dont worry about your enlish.
Use whatever work for you.
Im a new subscriber. 1st video. I like what you do. 10/10
Awesome, thank you!
Nice vidéos, great advices; cheers from Montreal
Thanks for watching!
Coming from Scotland let me tell you your English is fine, l find it hard to understand a lot of native speakers, maybe due to my having Aspergers, a form of Autism, you explain things very well
I still think that it is much better from your Bulgarian...thanks for the encouragement!
Good point about the handle bars. Those are the first to impact the planet.
Great tips - thx!
I totally understand your English, you speak very clearly, and the minor imperfections add flavor.
Your english is extraordinary, don't worry ! Ride safe ;)
I once fell at 40km/h on my older Hornet 600, no crash protection. Scratched the motor carter, damaged the rear plastics...If i had the protection, no damage would've happened.
I had the crash bars on the Versys 650, protected the bike when my friend dropped it at stand stil. Now, on the Africa Twin, i puchased the Heed Bunker crash bars to substitute the OEM weak one. Yes, it's 10kg, but the bike itself is already heavy, and it only adds about 5-6kgs overall when you remove the oem one. Considering how expensive it could be to repair the bike, i prefer to always have crash bars. And riding skills will do nothing against slippery road surface, nor electronics like ABS, TC will save you: you will go down regardless.
For some models the crash bars are must.
Your English is great ,but I appreciate the long explanations with pictures . Great job thank you.
First, Pavlin, there's nothing wrong with your English. Being from California, I sometimes have trouble understanding "locals", so, if I can easily understand you, you have nothing to worry about.
As for engine/bike protection, while I'm completely in agreement with your "sometimes yes, and sometimes no" answer, I'd like to add that more protection is always better than less. No one ever 'plans' on crashing, no one ever 'plans' I sliding, but, just like insurance, it's a "preventative measure". Better to have "protection" than to not...and better to have too much, as opposed to not enough. The 5 bikes I owned prior to my last bike (2006 Suzuki SV650S) had no added protection, including my third bike (1999 Kawasaki KLR650). However, because of a minor accident involving my fifth bike (1999 Suzuki SV650 "naked"), where a woman side-swiped my right-rear side, causing me to go down, that's what helped lead me to adding some protection to my sixth bike. Having purchased my seventh bike a little over 3 months ago (2017 Yamaha FJ-09, aka MT-09 Tr Acer), I decided that "maximum protection" should be the best route to take. So far, I've installed the beefy GIVI Engine Guard Bars, front & rear axle spools/sliders, side case racks (technically, while not intended as "protection", they do provide some), and s radiator grill. Currently on its way to me is an SW-MOTECH skid plate, which will be followed in the coming months by SW-MOTECH KOBRA handguards w/ turn signals, additional lighting (driving/fog lights, plus additional LED lighting on the lower forks), and reflective striping on the wheels & body panels. Most people only seem to consider "physical" protection, which is great if you get into an accident...but, what a lot of people sometimes forget is the "protection" that can help in avoiding accidents in the first place, such as things that make your bike moves visible to other drivers.
Agree
Nice, i was a bit concerned for my bike (Voxan Scrambler, bike no more contructed) but after looking at your video and remembering my first trip on Road40 in Argentina (and the few times i went down) i have been reassured, looking for that 28mm handle bar and handle bar protections instead...
Glad I could help!
I'm an engineer with master degree, when you fall with the "solid crash bar" you will bend the main frame, your expensive motorbike won't feel comfortable anymore.
A good crash bar is one that absorbs impact energy, protecting your expensive bike and yourself. after that you can buy a new crash bar.
I agree
I had sliders on my 2006 z1000 that saved me from losing my leg in a crash when a car t-boned me. The slider to the bring of the impact and protected my leg thankfully.
Good!
The Transalp 700 crashes well too :) silly story - I did buy crash bars when i first got it, before I had it on the road just because I was all excited and buying it presents, but i had removed them while i was servicing it, and didnt have the time to put them on, and the next morning I slide and crash into a truck, and it did amazingly, the fairings are so strong. After I put the bars back on, i dropped it to see how it would do with them (CAREFULLY! :P ) and it does fine too :) Shit luck is that I now have scratched fairings for some stupid luck -.-' Man i understand you perfectly, no need to worry so much about that :) Speaking about handlebars taking a lot of the force - when I crashed, my forks got misaligned - they're not inverted forks :'( It wasn't a problem, it's a 5 min job to fix and I did it there because I have tools on me, but still, it's a pain. Do you have any thoughts/experience with fork braces?
loved the video man, keep it up!
Hi Ed, the forks braces are good option to upgrade stability, but unfortunately you can't install it on any bike.
Your most salient point came in the very last piece of advice " You will feel a significant difference with you riding skills, if you just buy a lighter bike ". Many GS riders are there for the show-off factor.
True
Tenere 660 have good tank covers that cost less than crash bars in case of modest damage.
Touratech crash bars for xtz660 really suck. But Givi offers better protection if you accept the weight increase.
True
Your advices are really useful.....love from India...
Thanks!
'My bike crashes very well'
Brilliant. I use to say that to people about my 1979 Z650, which was pretty much bullet proof, but sadly the same could not be said for me. I've gotten better as time has passed, but it's just reassuring to know that some other people will _admit_ to falling off a lot too 🥰
(Hence why I'm here to try and discover if I should buy some crash bars for my Kawasaki Versys 650 [stick with what you know 😉])
Thanks for taking the time!
I understand your English 100%, One would have to be a knucklehead to misunderstand your speech. Excellent!
Very good description. I liked your English ascent, it is clear.
My friend hit a deer and the crash bar kept the deer from hitting his leg for the most part .. I hit a Deer with my Yamaha FZ-07 square in the Belly right under the headlight .. at 50 MPH .. it bent for forks . radiator ect..
It's hard to find crash bars for FZ MT-07 but not for MT-09 .. I liked Givi best .. out of stock in USA Ordered from Italy ..
I may try to attach a fairing style wind break to my crash bars.. also mount running lights to them.. can also attach small luggage to them
I have dropped my bikes several times, always at low speed, and nothing ever happened to the bike. But depending on the bike, I would want crash bars to protect my feet!
I fell over twice with my previous bike. The first time I was trying to go round the corner too fast and there was loose grit on the road, the second time I was trying to avoid a serious accident on a muddy road. It was only 125cc bike, so not heavy at all in normal circumstances, but both times my leg got pinned under and in that half lying position I had no strength of pushing the bike off me: I had to wait until some kind soul came along and helped me out. It was really embarrassing! I fell over on rather busy junctions so while it was dangerous to lie there, at least I was lucky enough to be seen - had I fallen in some quiet country road, things might have been much worse... I also have one experience of being pushed against an exhaust pipe (by a drunk) wearing only shorts: instant 3rd degree burn and a scar that took a year to heal. So I know how lucky I have been so far for not falling over on the wrong side...
Therefore I figure the best defence against getting a serious burn or getting stuck under the bike, or both, might be a crash bar. Any other suggestions?
Excellent video Pavlin and has been said your English is very good no problems with it.
I feel that the crash bars on my GS:es are to protect the bike from scratches when dropping the bike while maneuvering at slow speeds, nothing more. The engine block is very strong, much stronger than the crash bars, even when the crash bars are mounted properly.
You are not far from the truth I think.
I am Australian... Your English is very, very good! - Great video mate!
Thanks, man!
I was born and raised in Belarus, and later moved to USA. i can say that your English more understandable than most american people!!! Dont worry and make more great videos!
Hi Pavel, for many of us, not native speaking, is much better to understand when the person who talk is also not native. The reason to understand me well is because I use much smaller number of words and try to say it properly, but my native language don't really aloud me to do it and they sound very similar to your understandings on it.
I don't have a left leg (I do have a prosthetic) so if my bike falls left there's no way my Rheo Knee is going to lock out fast enough to catch the bike, so for me they are a "must have". However, ignoring that, I feel that if you go down while moving you are going to have to fix something and it is far better to replace some bars and repair some cosmetics than have to deal with a cracked block. Worth noting that if I had had some bars on the DT250 I took my big hit on there's a good chance I might have kept the leg.
As I said, for some bikes and situations thy could be must.
Und wieder mal ein sehr gutes Video!!