Hello Sean, some of your viewers questioned about the voltage supplied to the EKM meter. As most of they people watching this are DIYers. For the meter to calculate the power used be panel or sub-panel or an individual circuit breaker it needs the following. Voltage supplied and Current passed. Voltage x Current = Watts If your CTs are on L1 and L2 coming in If you power your EKM with 110 then the power (watts) will be drastically lower then if powered by the line into the panel. If you are only reading for a singular circuit then what ever that level of voltage should be what is supplied to the EKM meter It was definitely an excellent presentation.
We're running one 200 amp and one 100 amp lines to two separate sub-panels in a leased space. Both are three phase. Do you know if two wires can be run through each CT at the main panel and accurately meter the total power used?
I m assuming you can also install these CTs on individual breakers? I have 2 20 amp breakers feeding an apt. I need the apt. Separately metered from the rest of the panel
Hi are the wires you installed in port (7,8) really needed? Or could i just power the pulse v4 to a standard 110v outlet in port 7? I got 2 cts and one water meter, and the instructions on the water meter says the best way to power the omnimeter is to do it from port 7 to a standard outlet and just install a 1amp fuse inline. Would it work properly like this?
Hey Sean! I'm very appreciative of this video. I'm just nearing the completion of a backyard rental home build to help produce income for my aging mother and I elected to install the Omnimeter. My local electrician is looking at charing $1,900 to do the install, which is bonkers to me. As such, I think I have it all down except for the breaker part. Electricity is something I do not want to screw up and I'm not sure this is as straightforward as it seems or if there are thigns I could easily screw up. The piece about installing the breaker and lines is a little unclear as I have no experience working with an electrical panel before. If there is little ability to screw it up, I'm all for it. From what I understand, get two of those fuse lines from EKM, then use a wire nut to connect it to the wire that leads to the Omnimeter. I'm not sure what gauge wire I'll need to buy, however. For the breaker, I'll need to install two breakers, so will adding two 15-amp breakers to the next available slots work or is there some kind of mathematical equation I have to be aware of when adding in breakers? Any wisdom you can provide is greatly appreciated and this last little step could save my family $1,900! Thank you! (P.S. I once shorted a light switch when testing it with a continuity tester. I'm not sure what happened, but I don't want it to happen again. I guess my medal probe touched two pieces of metal on a live switch and it shorted? Question: If I touch the wrong sides of the breaker/bus bar (L1 and L2) is there any chance I'll cause an explosion?)
Haha, its easier that what your making it seem. Add two 15 amp breakers, make sure they are on opposite sides(L1 and L2). No math needed just add them. Wire guage, use what ya got. I used 18 but 16 would be good too. If you need more info hit me up at appalachiandiy@gmail.com or EKM tech support are great for questions too And 1900 is alot
I'm all for doing work yourself but when you are so unsure of a project like this you should just hire an electrician. Don't just ask one company, ask multiple and you'll get better bids. The reason an electrician costs that much is because they have the licenses. If you put this in and it injures/kills someone in your rental, they will send you to prison. I understand looking out for your family financially but cutting corners in the electrical side of it is not how you do that.
You shrink wrapped over the fuse so you can't easily replace it and most breaker manufacturers will not allow you to run 2 wires into one terminal, the rest was spot on. Ferrules would be good for the small wires.
This is a question that I had too. It would seem that this submeter, the EKM, would only be monitoring the two breakers, that the red and black "voltage metering" lines are hooked up to (these are the two wires that have the 1 amp flues in them). In this video it looks like we are looking at the main 200 amp panel for the whole house. Looking inside this panel I see two large conductors (a red and black one) on the right side about 2/3s of the way down, that are connected to a double pole breaker (? maybe a 100 amp double pole) which I assume feeds a sub-panel. If one wanted to monitor the kilowatts used by that sub-panel wouldn't one have to have those two "voltage metering" line attached to them? Did you ever get an answer to your above question as to whether this only monitoring the two breakers or the whole A and B sides? Would appreciate hearing how you ended up hooking up your sub-panel (if you are using one) if you used the EKM monitor.
Not to buzzkill but non metallic bushings can not be used to support your male adapters. You have to use your locknuts first. If you can't use both then try a different fitting with longer threads. This installation is a code violation. Good info aside from that one issue. Thanks!!
What doesn't make sense, is you ohming out the L1 and L2, it shouldn't matter what phase you're using to power up the unit. As long as a CT's are hooked up to the phase thats being monitered.
This was just what I needed to see. Thank You very much.
Hello Sean, some of your viewers questioned about the voltage supplied to the EKM meter. As most of they people watching this are DIYers. For the meter to calculate the power used be panel or sub-panel or an individual circuit breaker it needs the following.
Voltage supplied and Current passed.
Voltage x Current = Watts
If your CTs are on L1 and L2 coming in
If you power your EKM with 110 then the power (watts) will be drastically lower then if powered by the line into the panel.
If you are only reading for a singular circuit then what ever that level of voltage should be what is supplied to the EKM meter
It was definitely an excellent presentation.
Great lesson Sean, thank you.
We're running one 200 amp and one 100 amp lines to two separate sub-panels in a leased space. Both are three phase. Do you know if two wires can be run through each CT at the main panel and accurately meter the total power used?
Nice Demo
@@RazaNasar-m8o thanks!
I m assuming you can also install these CTs on individual breakers? I have 2 20 amp breakers feeding an apt. I need the apt. Separately metered from the rest of the panel
Have you correlate this meter to the one from utility company? Is this pretty accurate? How does this compared to Emporia System? better/worse?
Hi are the wires you installed in port (7,8) really needed? Or could i just power the pulse v4 to a standard 110v outlet in port 7?
I got 2 cts and one water meter, and the instructions on the water meter says the best way to power the omnimeter is to do it from port 7 to a standard outlet and just install a 1amp fuse inline.
Would it work properly like this?
Hey Sean! I'm very appreciative of this video. I'm just nearing the completion of a backyard rental home build to help produce income for my aging mother and I elected to install the Omnimeter. My local electrician is looking at charing $1,900 to do the install, which is bonkers to me.
As such, I think I have it all down except for the breaker part. Electricity is something I do not want to screw up and I'm not sure this is as straightforward as it seems or if there are thigns I could easily screw up.
The piece about installing the breaker and lines is a little unclear as I have no experience working with an electrical panel before. If there is little ability to screw it up, I'm all for it.
From what I understand, get two of those fuse lines from EKM, then use a wire nut to connect it to the wire that leads to the Omnimeter. I'm not sure what gauge wire I'll need to buy, however. For the breaker, I'll need to install two breakers, so will adding two 15-amp breakers to the next available slots work or is there some kind of mathematical equation I have to be aware of when adding in breakers?
Any wisdom you can provide is greatly appreciated and this last little step could save my family $1,900!
Thank you!
(P.S. I once shorted a light switch when testing it with a continuity tester. I'm not sure what happened, but I don't want it to happen again. I guess my medal probe touched two pieces of metal on a live switch and it shorted? Question: If I touch the wrong sides of the breaker/bus bar (L1 and L2) is there any chance I'll cause an explosion?)
Haha, its easier that what your making it seem. Add two 15 amp breakers, make sure they are on opposite sides(L1 and L2). No math needed just add them. Wire guage, use what ya got. I used 18 but 16 would be good too. If you need more info hit me up at appalachiandiy@gmail.com or EKM tech support are great for questions too
And 1900 is alot
@@appalachiandiy2415 my local electrician is charging $600 (for the electrical component only)....
I'm all for doing work yourself but when you are so unsure of a project like this you should just hire an electrician. Don't just ask one company, ask multiple and you'll get better bids. The reason an electrician costs that much is because they have the licenses. If you put this in and it injures/kills someone in your rental, they will send you to prison. I understand looking out for your family financially but cutting corners in the electrical side of it is not how you do that.
You shrink wrapped over the fuse so you can't easily replace it and most breaker manufacturers will not allow you to run 2 wires into one terminal, the rest was spot on. Ferrules would be good for the small wires.
He didn't hear shrink over the fuse, he heat shrunk over the soldered extension.
Great video, thanks
Thanks
Hi there
what is the size of this box? is it 6.7” x 10.63” x 4.33"? thanks
Does this read only on the breakers the wires were hooked up to or the whole A and B side
This is a question that I had too. It would seem that this submeter, the EKM, would only be monitoring the two breakers, that the red and black "voltage metering" lines are hooked up to (these are the two wires that have the 1 amp flues in them). In this video it looks like we are looking at the main 200 amp panel for the whole house. Looking inside this panel I see two large conductors (a red and black one) on the right side about 2/3s of the way down, that are connected to a double pole breaker (? maybe a 100 amp double pole) which I assume feeds a sub-panel. If one wanted to monitor the kilowatts used by that sub-panel wouldn't one have to have those two "voltage metering" line attached to them? Did you ever get an answer to your above question as to whether this only monitoring the two breakers or the whole A and B sides? Would appreciate hearing how you ended up hooking up your sub-panel (if you are using one) if you used the EKM monitor.
Not to buzzkill but non metallic bushings can not be used to support your male adapters. You have to use your locknuts first. If you can't use both then try a different fitting with longer threads. This installation is a code violation. Good info aside from that one issue. Thanks!!
What "non metallic bushing" and "male adapters" are you referring to?
What doesn't make sense, is you ohming out the L1 and L2, it shouldn't matter what phase you're using to power up the unit. As long as a CT's are hooked up to the phase thats being monitered.
418 Yvette Lake
1298 Eleanora Unions
Jazlyn Trail
Gottlieb Coves
56482 McGlynn Way