Super Nintendo - Broken Power Jack - Fixing Ebay Junk
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- I've got a rough looking #SNES with a bad power jack. Here I walk through how to replace this by soldering in a new power jack.
#RetroRepairs #RetroGaming #Nintendo #FixingEbayJunk
Want to buy me a beer? Or a broken console? Hit up the donate link (But only if you want, don't feel obligated). www.paypal.com...
Thanks for watching - Ігри
That burn mark at the screw hole looks like someone tried melting a pen into the screw rather than buying a gamebit
dont you just love when people keep some screws after opening something hahah
seeing you struggle with that old power port soldering makes me relate to you so much. I bought 8 snes from goodwill on ebay 2 years a go, 3 of them needed this repair and I found a guy on youtube who fixed his but he is either a soldering god or something because he made it look easy. It took me 1 whole day to get it right and i broke one to the point I couldnt repair it so i lost out on that one... its the risk we take, great video love this kind of stuff
A very common problem on the SNES. The plastic becomes so weak and brittle when it gets yellow, hence why the post on the inside was broke as well.
A good way to prevent the power jack plastic from breaking, is to never wrap the power cord around the console while it's plugged in or bend the end connector piece to it. I have seen this so many times with connectors and controllers being wrapped around the console, and I wish people would stop doing that.
I know, right!
The plastic of the case looks to be labeled as ABS, you could use a trick from 3D printing which is to mix a small amount of ABS and acetone into a slurry (the ABS will dissolve in the acetone), this makes a phenomenal glue when attaching ABS to ABS (basically chemically welding). Probably easier said than done during quarantine if you don't already have the materials for it, but worth noting.
Pretty easy repair to do, might have one to do soon if I can get hold of the replacement part. The de-soldering thing is the reason I still use wick/braid for those larger pads regardless, it just seems to work better for me.
10:00 The trick is to keep the pads hot while you pull. I would use a bigger, thicker tip on those contacts so that the entire pad heats up (not just the pin), and use that same iron with a bit of downward pressure so that you push the pins down and out. The moment you put the iron away to try to separate, it cools faster than you can separate the header from the board, so you have to keep it at melting temp.
Hey, i love watching the old videos. All parts I had were basically factory new. Hope everything ypu are doing now is going well! ❤
That SNES has definitely seen better days... Looks like it was on the losing end of a temper tantrum.
Every one of these videos I watch makes me more & more convinced I want to pick up a hobby I really can't afford right now xD
For those elongated power pins I still use a desoldering braid, it’s much easier.
Those wider joints are a pain. If you get an N61-16 4x1 tip for the hakko de-soldering gun it makes de-soldering those connections a lot easier. They're about 37 bucks on digikey. Expensive but a huge time saver!
Whoa, I'm pretty sure I saw this on ebay and immediately thought of the previous power plug video you did
Dude same!
A couple drops of acetone will weld ABS. Might hold better than super glue
I thought you were going to Retrobright it.
Nah, this was just to go over the charging port repair.
Retrobright would make it the perfect repair. Great job as always.
Yeah that thing badly needs retrobright. That said, it won't affect the functionality.
That yellowed quite bad. The plastic is very brittle as we can see from all the broken bits inside and outside. I don't think retrobright can fix that.
It's beyond saveable. The full thickness of the plastic is yellow, not just the surface.
I was pulling my hair out and yelling at the screen to use flux and solder wick when you were de-soldering the power connector, it would have worked so much faster and been more delicate. the only reason adding new solder works is because it has flux in it.
god bless your videos, sometimes i think their the only entertaining thing left on youtube
Yeah and "My mate vince" 10/10💪
also i highly reccommend using Tamiya ABS glue for repairing brittle plastic damage, a little goes a long way, you just need to give it a night to cure.
Fix power jack, Retrobrite it, remove region block tabs from the cartridge slot. Done.
Hai man..
This is great have a videos like this..
You do a great job man..
Used this video to fix mine at home! Thanks!
I scared myself discharging a cap for a refrigeration system once. Big arch... and my face was closer than it should gave been 🤣
@zardyあ lesson learned, huh?
Very informative channel...love your work bro
It's not as hard as people make it sound.
I used the wick to get all the old solder off. There's surprisingly a good amount of solder on through-holes.
The hard part is getting it off. Almost as if they didn't want us to ever repair it...
I didn't have an AC adapter at the time, but knowing it was my childhood SNES I knew it was still working.
And then when I got the AC adapter, I tested Super RotJ and noticed some sprite layer issue...
"Oh no..."
Thank you! Another Snes was safed
oh and also some solderwick would of probably helped with removing
He has solderwick, Probably more than we both together. But the problem was not that the solder isnt 100% gone, The problem was that the space is really tight and it is extremly hard to get that out of there, because you have to kind of bend the plastic...
@@cris_crafter there was still solder left, which is why he heated it while pulling on it. Some solderwick would of helped remove more on the pads and the pins themself and could of made it alot easier
@@JuicyJakeRepairs That is true, but beginning with the desoldering station is still the better way.
@@cris_crafter yes im saying desoldering then use wick for the last bit :)
JuicyJake Repairs ok, I have to admit then, that we think the same...
how timely. I got a free snes from a coworker who found it in a relatives storage shed. I had never had a snes before and my power jack looked just like this. Did not realize it was broken. lol Already replacing a few things on it, 1 more for the list. Also, UV cure resin for plastic fixes like that post.
You should restore that snes Buddy It’s Yellowed
And there we go. New Power Jack soldered into place and it works just fine.
I'm curious. How do you feel about someone sending a console to you to get checked out? (With payment of course). Is that something that you're up for? I have a Super Nintendo that I can't get working and was wondering if that's an option at all. Cheers.
Thank you for this video, I'm getting ready to do this project. I was curious if it matters what kind of solder to get?
Awesome! Love the videos! Have you ever tried using UV lights to remove yellowing? Thanks for sharing! Stay Safe!
Yes. It can work pretty well in some cases, but this is an extreme example. The entire shell is yellow, not just the surface. I don't think it's going to be saveable, ill hold out until i find a donor shell with a bad board and swap it.
Even if I could lighten this one, it would probably get yellow again quickly
RetroRepairs nice! Look forward to your next project!
Thank you for saving another SNES. :]
love your channel. i get legitimately excited when i hear the intro music.
speaking of the music, where did it come from?
A viewer actually made it, they thought the intro screen needed some sound
Can you show the required tools that anyone needs to fix retro consoles
Nice video. Do you stream on twitch at all? I typically only get to see you playing one handed while testing.
What kind of soldering iron and desoldering pump do you use? Your videos are awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Hakko fx888d for the iron, Hakko fr-301 for the pump
Do you think you'll ever do a repair/troubleshooting guide to fixing gamecube controllers? Similar to the super mario bros cartridge repair video i.e. finding/fixing broken traces? (I have a gc controller where the stickbox is functional, but for whatever reason the board does not detect the stickbox at all) lol
Possibly, if i come across that issue
I was wondering if I'd be able to send 2 Nintendo 3DS consoles your way to fix them? Before I get into what I know to be wrong with them, I do want to note that I will want both of them back.
The consoles are a metallic blue one and a special edition Legend of Zelda one.
First, the special edition console.
The 3D slider may need cleaned because it doesn't slide 100% smoothly. The circle pad cap fell off, so I superglued it back in place; therefore, you may wish to service that. As far as the buttons are concerned, the only two that don't work are the A button and the L button.
Second, the blue one:
All of the buttons work, but the R button sometimes doesn't respond to being pressed. The cover piece for the Start, Select, and Home buttons is somewhat worn and may need replaced, and those buttons serviced to ensure optimal functionality.
There is an issue both consoles share which I will explain here:
Sometimes, when I attempt to power off one of the consoles, it refuses to power all the way down. This results in me being forced to hold down the Power button until it finally shuts off (this never requires force to achieve as I have never pushed down hard on the Power button on either system).
Any miscellaneous cleaning you want to do(inside the consoles or out) will be greatly appreciated.
I will happily pay for labor as well as parts and shipping if you so choose. Please get back to me as soon as possible.
Update: I decided to try to pop open my 3DS consoles (bad move given I'm an amateur), and I found that the blue one's battery might be bad due to slight bulging, and the special edition one's battery had a small piece of outer shell chip off. Furthermore, the blue one will decidedly need cleaning on the inside.
i, too, remember the SNES you could only get using Marlboro Miles
Much easier if you use a vice to hold the board steady.
I'm assuming the shell is a write off but youll keep the non-broken / not yellowed portions and throw it in a beater.
Yep. The board is fine and there's good parts, if i find a snes with a better shell it could be a good swap candidate
@@RetroRepairs I know this is random question but did you ever fix that top loader? like 2 years ago you had a top loader and at the time were inconclusive on fixing it
I've actually started working on it again, but that boards got a lot of problems
@@RetroRepairs keep us updated ;)
Hello 👋. Can you recommend a replacement SNES power cord? Thank you! 🙏
Retro repairs how or where do I get one of those super famicom/Nintendo test cartridges id love to have one for sure
Where do you buy broken stuff? I want to repair a Super Nintendo or a Commodore 64...
I found solder wick to be infinitely better to desolder things~
I'm honest to God surprised no one has tried to make reproduction shells for the SNES, considering the plastic holding it together is gonna start getting even more brittle and yellow as time goes on.
Same. I've seen some reproduction handheld shells, as well as dreamcast and ps1 shells, so maybe it's only a matter of time?
@@RetroRepairs Fingers crossed. I'd really like it if someone made a Red or Navy Blue replacement housing.
That won't happen until prices of systems go much higher. Right now cheap broken SNES with good shells can be had for $20-30. Just no incentive to make such a complex shell with moving parts.
I had this problem I kept twisting till it came on then held it in place with something
I just did this repair to mine about a month ago.
Do you have a Twitter or Instagram? I’d love to see what you do when you aren’t repairing retro games/consoles
no views club ! Good vid as always :D
I'm still trying to get one cheap.
Do you have a toy vault in your area? I bought mine there for like 65
@@heleng4528 not that I know of.
My DC jack was loose and power only worked when held a certain way. When I went to resolder the metal ring around where you solder came off. After soldering I now have no power at all. Is it because the metal came off and if it is how do I fix it?
I know this isn't related, but I do have to ask this. I'm wanting a portable console for taking to my camp on the weekends, so I was thinking of getting one from the Gameboy timeline since I get a lot of sunlight there and the reflective screen would be perfect for something like that. Only problem is that I don't know which one to buy. The Gameboy Color is backwards compatible with all og Gameboy games and the newer GB Color games, but they're expensive. The og GB is cool, but it takes more batteries, only plays the older games, isn't in color of course, and it's more expensive. The GB Pocket is less expensive, has all the problems of the original one accept price and batteries, but they are prone to having their polarizing film melted and burned by the UV raise. Which one should I get?
Game boy advance SP. Best of all worlds, plus the screen is lit so you can play in the dark
@@RetroRepairs Thank you! I mean, I was thinking of getting a GB because of the light outside at my camp and it being easy to see, but if that's what you say, then thank you!
No problem. There were a lot of good gba games too. I think it's definitely worth it.
ONLY downside i can think of is they're rechargeable batteries rather than AAs, so if you were off the grid somewhere, you'd need to recharge. If that's an issue, regular GBA is a great option, just no lit up screen
@@RetroRepairs Yeah, I can understand that to be a problem. I am in a camper when we go there, so technology isn't too much of a problem. It's mainly that I don't trust myself and I'll end up playing the night away if I have a screen I can see in the dark. X) Thank you again and I will take it into consideration! You're the expert!
Yikes, that new solder is dull. Looks like lead-free solder.
You can use baking soda to activate super glue, it will instantly set.
My n64 show no video and sound, and I saw there is a missing pin in the rca port, so there no contact with the rca cable. How can I make to connect the rca cable with the port? Any suggestion to fill that missing part and be able to connect everything?
Awesome.
Would have Retro Brite that thing while it was apart.
It's not salvageable. When the entire thickness of the plastic is yellow, retrobrite won't save it.
It's not a miracle cure for all Yellowed plastics
have you ever seen the issue on a snes where everything works except the sprite dont show up on screen? like mario is invisible, but playable
One of your chips is bad. Not repairable.
That Retro Repair needs some Retro Briting.
This shells a writeoff. It's fully yellow inside and out, plus cracked. It's a donor for a shell swap
@@RetroRepairs what do you think about 3D printing these shells? Could even have fun with the colours.
I've seen some people who have created casts and made new handheld shells, i think that might be the best (alright most intensive) option. It would be awesome to get some good third party options available for these, as they're among the worst at getting yellow and brittle
@@RetroRepairs can you send a link to the casting method?
@@earlspencer7863 Try this link: facebook.com/Roarkes-Retro-Corner-1924083051213341/
Is it possible to swap cpu rev “b” to a board with cpu rev “a”? (CPU swap from gpm-02 donor to a gpm-01 board?)
Did someone tried to remove the screws with a soldering iron!?
Yes
I fucking love your videos
How much to fix my Power jack to my snes
Here I bought you a beer. 🍺🍺🍺🍺
Thanks Cheers!
how do i reach out to you directly if i would like to send you a console
Use a Famicom-adapter. No need to do anything.
If you add baking soda while the super glue is drying the bond is going to be 10 times stronger.
interesting, I didn't know that.
But more brittle. Old trick from myth busters. I use this on N64 stick repairs.
Thanks broooo!!! Still 8 haters dislike🧘
Hey, this is off subject but I have a Sega master system (original model) it plays fine but the graphics sort of shift every so often not glitch but definitely shift a little on every game I have also tried a genesis model 1 power supply with the same results, any ideas on if something is failing or maybe its normal?
I have no experience repairing things, but try recapping it
@@unlovableshinshin thanks
Can anyone answer my simple question why do people add flux before soldering
Flux helps to clean all metal components and prepare it to better accept solder. Without flux, solder will generally stick to whatever is hottest, which is usually your soldering iron.
Watch a video of someone drag-soldering a small surface mount chip with flux, and you'll see the solder go exactly where it's supposed to with no bridging. Watch someone do it without flux, and it's a mess.
braid woulda saved you like 10 minutes on the right pad.
Dude, are you still alive?
Am i the only one who got irritated whe n he didnt grab the turtle and get the extra man?
What a shoddy repair
I need a case for my super nintendo. if you watch my video on which I show my console you will see that the case is completely broken.
Can a Super Nintendo EVER be called "junk"? Lol Not in my book!
Make your life easier and cut the extra plastic off the broken one isn't like you are going to save it.
First