wow, another one of my plugins featured by Chris, that's awesome. One recommendation is to use the options in OctoPrint's Connection panel to Save connection settings and auto-connect on server startup after selecting the port/baudrate prior to connecting. That way when the pi powers on it will auto connect and then display the IP on screen.
Just what i needed. Same boards, same pi, same problem solved. I had been researching this is the last couple of days... You have been a Godsend! Greetings from STL, Missouri.
Uncanny, the timing of this video. I recently received the BTT Octopus and have been having a time getting kilpper and mainsail to work. You have provided steps I was missing and can’t wait to get back into that project. Will be following the next videos in this series!
Have been working myself up to getting rid of the usb cable from my printer to the pi and after watching this I think I can wrangle most of it. Just leaving a comment for the algorithm :-)
Nice.. Learned a lot about Marlin here. Hope to learn more about Klipper. I will have to admit though, the yellow update in your broswer in the top right had my eyeball twitching. 😁
Thank you sir, I've been wanting to do this, but was nervous to just hack at it, especially as the price and availability of the Pi have been crazy lately. You gave me the confidence to do this on my E3 V2 board and it was a breeze. Looking forward to other projects you have lined up in the future to use this capability. I love removing the power and usb cables from my setup!
@@aaronward6092 I just setup my other printer with the same setup and I realized the other edit I had to make in order to make it work. I have the Pi4, and although he says in the video to disable bluetooth for pi2 devices, you also need that enabled to get the 4 to work, at least in my setup. So when you edit the config.txt file, you need to add both lines: dtoverlay=pi4-miniuart-bt dtoverlay=disable-bt
Chris, Thanks for doing this video. I'm in the process of setting up my Octopus Pro on the Rat Rig and wanted to use UART, this information is helping a lot
Nice explanation. Nero showed an easier method to get the bin file. Moving it to the same folder as where your config files are and download it from Mainsail/Fluidd. Just in case you have a Mac like me and it’s easier to do it that way.
Hello Chris, I would like to say, yes, you were right :) In MainsailOS it is all already preconfigured. Because we discovered that this Step is mostly the hurdle for a Beginner. Great Video! Keep up your good content. Regards
I'm just using a 5 year old Asus Chromebox I purchase from work for $5! Running linux server with an Octoprint instance. Works great! So no pin-outs for me! Nice video Chris.
Just my $0.02 but if you are struggling to get this going with an SKR 1.3, what I did was 1) default USB port should be set to '-1' in Marlin 2.0 with baudrate 250000. I then uncommented 'additional USB port' just under that in the config.h (uncommenting it makes it active) and set it to '0' with a baudrate of 250000. Happy days! Working great! Thanks Chris!
Great job! Want a fun video topic? Getting Klipper to work on a Duet board! It’s not for the faint of heart! I got it working, but not well. I ultimately ended up going with RepRap FW.
Thanks again Chris, i always understand you way of explaining stuff, just the right amount of description. is there any down sides to using gpio? i have run out or usbs on my PI and just need one more, i also hear so many people complaining about poor quality usb cables giving them grief. i do have a separate 5V power supply so i just need to run a 2 pin cable from my PI to my octopus mcu
Hi Chris, Thanks for making this video, i believe the paths have now changed to /boot/firmware/ cmdline.txt etc. I also noticed that when trying to flash the firmware it doesnt disapear and reapear automatically.
Just as an update: pi4b+ and a SKR mini E3 V2.0 uart to tft connection sudo nano /boot/config.txt is the same except no need for dtoverlay=disable-bt as it's alreadly listed in the [All] section no need to touch the cmdline.txt as it doesn'y have the serial....115200 portion anyway the trick is the "make menuconfig" portion you have to choose the SMT32f103 processor anyway according to Kevin in the klipper github for the SKR mini E3 V2.0 picking serial (PA2 and PA3) gets you to the tft bus on the SKR mini E3 V2.0 (I imagine it's the same for the V3.0 as well) and is listed on the BBT SKR schematics. I had to do a complete new install for it to work, am currently still adding parts of my old config to it and testing between to make sure it works. Prusa slicer connects no problem. Just a recap.............Klipper, Pi4b+, SKR mini E3 V2.0 UART to TFT connection Thanks for pointing me down this path Chris, the options for case development are endless now.........
Ok, so it seems that I have some difficuties making it work. I flashed the firmware twice, both for TFT connection (PA10 and PA9) and for WiFi connector (PD9 and PD8) on SKR 3 EZ. I made changes in both /boot/config.txt and /boot/cmdline.txt, as well as I made changes by raspi-config to enable serial. Works fine with USB so I will stick with that for now, but I wouldn't mind getting some help setting it via GPIO.
These configs can be very fickle. RX/TX pin assignment don't always seem to work the same. I wish there was a better way to troubleshoot them. I will have to think on it.
Chris, thank you so much for your video! Really good as always! I have a Ender-3 with a SKR E3 Turbo and recently I bought a pi zero 2w in order to install it in the same place with the skr designing a new custom cover. So the video arrived at the perfect time. This weekend I finished everything following your guide and I have to say that it works perfect. Everything is in the same box, with one 4020 fan for both (mainboard and pi zero), without extra power supply, or usb cables etc... Just perfect! The only thing which I would like to ask you is, if I can use a usb webcam which I have us it is, or you think that I need to have an external power supply?
I would be reluctant to use a webcam in this config, they do use a lot of extra power. I would recomend and external power supply. Glad you like the video.
Brilliant! been wanting to do this for ages, simply to get rid of the annoying USB Cable that come out the front of my printer and then goes back in. I have had zero luch running a Pi4 from and SKR2 always complains of under voltage.
the CPU speed on a Zerro and Zerro 1W is already tight. But if USB is not used but TTL serial then the CPU has one task less. The Zerro 2 W has the same 4-core CPU as the PI 3 A+ and B+. These three are sufficient for the tasks.
you should use something similar to an ifixit plastic spudger when you are pointing around, before you kow it, you short something :) (or atleast, it looks like it)
Hi Chris. Great video! One link you need to update. Your link to the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W is just the CASE for $9.99. No pi Zero included. Only a couple of vendors on Amazon had them listed as available for about $75.
Luckily I’m living in small country. Got 4 with 2 GB of RAM for 46 euros recently and zero 2 W for 16 euros. They come in small batches and are sold here quickly, but in a timeframe of day or two, not minutes.
I agree. if doubling the 5V wires is necessary for the 5V rail to reduce voltage drop (and it may well be), then it is even more necessary for the ground rail, as that provides the reference zero volts for the digital signals. So it seems to me that the dual 5V wires is a strong indication to add one or more additional grounds to/from other nearby ground connection points on the two boards.
I couldn't get the UART to work on my voron. I had the cable right, did all the same steps as you did but just couldn't get the connection. I did it the same day you put out this video too so the timing is amazing, i just wish it worked and I have NO IDEA why it didn't. I tried both orientations of the TX and RX. I know it's usually TX to RX and RX to TX but I also read somewhere not to switch them because the BTT boards do that internally but neither worked.
I wonder if maybe the device name is different for some reason? Do a ls /dev and make sure the AMA00 is there. If not, try chaging to the one you do have in the printer.cfg file.
Did the UART change last week. With the Ender3 the problem is that the USB is on the front so it is easily knocked. I think I may have killed my SKR Mini v2 because of this. Running a v3 now. I also added a buck converter to power the PI.
A word of caution to owners of the BTT SKR mini e3 V2.. I tried this with a raspberry pi zero w2 using the TFT header for UART communication and power.. and it worked for one print then killed my skr mini. Don't get me wrong.. This is great video and i have an skr mini e3 V3 communicating to a raspberry pi 4 running octoklipper via UART in another printer but that pi is powered with a buck converter through the gpio pins, not the skr mini e3 V3s 5v TFT pin. I hate usb cables lol.. and i will probably convert all my printers to UART communication. But i wont be trying to power a pi from the e3 V2 anymore lol.. I have ordered another V3 to replace my dead board.. hopefully it has a better power delivery circuit than the V2. I've reached out to BTT to ask them exactly what i can expect from the 5v pin on the TFT header.. hopefully i hear back form them.. and hopefully its capable of powering a pi zero w2... cuse this printer looked tooo good without all the usb cables...
@@ChrisRiley after further investigation i found the positive screw terminal from the main power supply was melted. I doubt the extra amps the pi required was enough to cause this... perhaps an artifact of the of factory tined wires. Ive been meaning to crimp on some ferrule ends on em but just havent had the time.. till now lol.. Replaced the board with the V3. I talked to the btt support who have told me the main board on the v3 cannot support a raspberry pi 0w2 and that the 5v pin on th eTFT header was only capable of 1.5 amp. It was unclear as to weather of not thats 1.5 amps across all 5v pins or just the TFT header. In any case I am trying the V3 in the same configuration even though btt recommended against it cuz i like living on the edge lol.. and i cant imagine the pi 0w2 pulling more than 1.5 amps just running octoklipper.. and i can replace screw terminals if im wrong... so i guess we will see :D
hey chris I been a watcher for years of your channel and I would lie you to make a video on how to setup the rasbery pi 4 to run octoprint on a ssd hard drive and not need a sd card for the rasberry pi any more I have been looking but no one has made a video about that yet thank you for your time.
Hey Chris I thought I should should you this because you are always into 3d printers and machines and I wanted to show you what I was able to make here is the link to my new video on UA-cam ua-cam.com/video/-uAWTsUptK0/v-deo.html
great video I used this to connect my Pi4 via the tft35 uart 4 connector so I could keep the touch function and have octopi at the same time and no usb hanging out the front of the main board way cleaner look now.
I'm interested in doing the same, did you use an external power supply for the pi? UART4 on tft35 has only 3 pins, GND RX4 TX4. Can I use the USB port on tft35 to power the pi?
Intresting way especially if you want to have the pi close in the printers electronic house, anyway if you want to attach a webcam on octoptint you have to make use of an USB port and need space again. For supply the pi from the printer 24 V I would rather use a small step down pcb than trust on the 5V source from the display.
After watching your video I'm inspired to do this to a couple of my printers (Ender 3 and Ender 5 Plus)! I'm currently upgrading the Ender 3 to the Creality 4.2.7 board and I'm wondering where the RPi should connect, to the 4.2.7 board (somewhere) or to the display board where there's 2 unused 10 DIP connectors (EXP1 and EXP2). I'm puzzled how you'd connect to the TFT connector on the 4.2.7 board and still be able to use the display. Or should I save the 4.2.7 board for another project and order a couple of BTT Pico controllers? - THANKS!
@@ChrisRiley any luck? i have the ender 5 plus silent board and want to do this. I’m a bit confused why you can’t just use the exp1 and exp2 connections?
Could you also do this with a PC running Octoprint communicating to the mainboard using a USB-to-GPIO adapter? If so, would this render the USB on the mainboard useless or could you still use the board's USB for something else?
Good questions, but I don't know how that would work. On this board I think USB and GPIO are the same, so there could be a conflict if you tried to use both.
This works perfectly with the SKR Mini E3 V2 board. I just finished setting it up and it worked perfect. Don't follow the pins he showed in the video. Essentially you're looking at the open pins he first showed that are not in the black pin connector. You will not see the 5 pin connector anywhere on the E3 V2 board. They are opposite of what he showed, so going right to left with the orientation he shows on screen, it's 5V, GND, Transmit, Receive, RST. Google SKR Mini E3 V2 and go to the images tab. It'll be the second image from Reddit. It was really easy to do, just make sure 5V and GND match between the board and the Pi, otherwise you could get the smelly smoke of death. If you swap the transmit/receive cables wrong, it won't hurt anything, you'll just never be able to connect to the board.
Novice question: If you change from the Einsy RAMBO controller to one of the boards featured in your video will upgrades from Prusa still work 100%. Guess what I am asking what will be affected by changing out the control board when it comes to flash upgrades or other upgrades from Prusa?
Does Octoprint communicate with the Prusa through the TX and RX pins on the J19 socket of the Einsay Rambo board of the Prusa? If so, is there anything special that needs to be done on the Prusa to make it communicate via those TX and RX pins? In the Prusa firmware, what class (e.g. Serial, MarlinSerial?) does it use to send and receive via those TX and RX pins on the J19 connector?
I don't know exactly how the code works, but if you use Prusa firmware all you have to do to use it is turn on Rpi port in the settings on the LCD menu. If you use Marlin you would have to setup an additional serial.
I'm wondering if you can clarify something. Can you connect two 5v wires from the SKR 2 to the Pi 4 if it's needing more power or will that only work with the BTT Pico board?
@@PalosX I would like to see where the SKR3 says that. Powering it with USB C and using the GPIO is really the best option. Or get a 5v power supply to use with the GPIO pins.
I'd love to know if you've tried having both a SKR board and a TFT screen connected to pi through UART, I've had it working but not efficiently/reliably - currently I think it's saturating the bandwith of the UART port trying to effectively buffer the PI input to the TFT and then outputting that to the TFT. Straight UART without the TFT works like a dream, but I want the moon on a stick, and still be able to use my TFT with the SKR board!
Yeah, any time I try to do multiple devices, things get unperdictable. It's due to bit bashing, it's just hard to get it all working and talking on the same bus.
If anyone is wondering, I’ve spent ages trying to resolve this, and solved it by flashing the latest TFT35 firmware last night and hey presto it’s all working, it can get a little odd when disconnecting/resetting but actually working really well. I’ve got it setup as follows: GPIO Tx, Rx, GND -> TFT35 UART3 Rx, Tx, GND and then the TFT to SKR1.4 turbo as normal. You just need to double check the baud rate matches on all connections, mine is running at 25000 quite nicely. Took bloody ages but BTT must have quietly improved the UART pass through in their firmware I think.
Very good tutorial as usual but for me no matter what I do, how many times, different methods (like manual installation) I can't get it to work in my SKR 2 (cpu stm32f429) with a Pi zero W. Any suggestion pls? Mean while back to Marlin. :(
So the first thing I always check in power. Try powering it with an adapter instead of the board and see if it works. These boards have a bad habit of the power regulator not working correctly.
Well, I don't figure this stands MUCH of a chance, but here goes anyway: I just purchased my idea of an upgrade kit from BTT for my Ender3: an SKR mini E3 V3 with a TFT35 touchscreen PLUS the BTT Pi 1.2 - with the silly notion of moving to Klipper instead of Marlin. I went to school with a Marlin - we go WAY back - but it's time to be moving ON!!! jk Not kidding about wanting (badly) to go with Klipper, BUT -- I can't even get MARLIN to work with this setup, and the thing that makes me CRAZY is that I canNOT get ANSWERS from BTT "tech support!!!!" For one thing, I couldn't find decent documentation to TRY the GPIO connection instead of ye olde USB cable - what I DID see in their documentation DID NOT MATCH ANY labels on the mini board - so I didn't attempt it. Well, that was a fore-taste of the delights of their shabby documentation, because what they define for the USB (serial) port definition ALSO differs from REALITY in such a stupendous way that it won't BEGIN to work! This is the port def'n that has to go in one's printer.cfg file under the [serial] section as something like "/dev/serial/by_id/xxxxblahblahblahxxxx" Well, if there AIN'T NO "serial" folder/directory under the /dev/ folder/directory, the rest of that line is so much bovine scat! AT LEAST FIVE TIMES I have asked for the CORRECT def'n from their tech support meatheads, but they have YET to even act like they UNDERSTAND THE QUESTION!!! Meanwhile, the LCD screen INSISTS that there is NO PRINTER ATTACHED, so - unsurprisingly - NONE of the simplest functions work (like moving X Y or Z or even HOMING them!) All in all, this is beginning to look like just another exercise in futility, and I should just cease and desist wasting any MORE time and brain-sweat on it - and just get a refund and try something else! Too bad - especially when I see so many YT vids making it look SO EASY!!!
This type of GPIO setup can be very fickle. The first issue it usually power, a lot of the board pins don't have enough current to run the Pi. Next is the serial device as you saw. It could be listed as a AMA or AMC device. I would run the ls /dev with it cabled, then with it not and try to compare them. It might be seen as a different type.
@@ChrisRiley Hi Chris - and THANKS for taking the time - I am truly honored! As for MY time - clearly less valuable - there STILL is a LIMIT, and I've about reached it! I so wanted to move up to klipper with this self-rolled "kit," and the main selling point for this Pi clone was its ease of POWERING it from my Ender3's power supply - offsetting even the lack of a camera port and the severely limited OS choice. But to NOT WORK at ALL? Not acceptable! WiFi doesn't work, the USB port that is supposed to connect to the Mini by wire is NOT at the /dev/serial/by-id/xxxxx port they describe, and I have asked them at least 7 times what the REAL spec should be - with NO ANSWER AT ALL -- well, I've had it with these clowns. I'm glad they seem to work for YOU, but in my experience: 3 fails out of 3 devices just don't cut it! But thanks again - the steam coming out my ears is surely NOT because of YOU!!! Keep up the good work!!! PS - I'm currently thinking that the SKR Mini E3 is seriously flawed, which MAY be making both of the other two pieces LOOK BAD. I decided to try connecting my PC to the Mini via its micro USB port, a la Repetier, and like the Pi, the PC doesn't see the Mini board AT ALL. So the Q is - will Amazon replace just the mini board....
Tried doing this on my Ender 3 S1 Pro but cannot get a connection established. Octoprint sends a message and gets a reply, but connection never happens. Any thoughts?
I cannot get this to work for the life of me. The USB connection works fine. I went through all the steps and double check everything. check the continuity of my dupont jumper. checked ls /dev and the ttyAMA0 is there. Strangely the USB is using /dev/ttyACM0 and that isn't listed in the ls /dev. My knowledge of programming the rasp pi is very limited and have no idea what the next steps would be. any ideas or suggestions?
Hi I have just got a SKR 3 EZ could i use the tx and rx pins for the WiFi connector instead of using a WiFi adapter on this board I think the pins are PD8 and PD9 I will use an external adapter for powering the Pi.
@ChrisRiley question. If I'm powering my Pi directly from my printer's PS, Can I still connect the GPIO 14 and 15 to the SKR Mini E3's TFT tx and rx pins?
I own a Tronxy xy 2 pro printer with faulty mobo so I want to replace the system for Marlin or Klipper, what do you think should I use? As bad as it can be the tronxy mobo, is very complete system as it handles 3 fans controllable, filament run out sensor and resume printing all in one, is not easy to find a replacement as complete as this one. Your help will be appreciated, thanks.
Is there another way to see if the configuration for my UART communication is working? I tested it with ls -l /dev/serial/by-id/ but thats only if you use USB when I am right.
I would like to implement this method on my FLSUN SR which has the MKS_Robin_Nano_V3 control board. TX3 and RX3 are the only UART pins available (as far as I can see) and they are used by the display(again, as far as I can see). Could I ditch the display and connect the pins to the Raspberry Pi without having to recompile marlin and this would work? I am kind of willing to give this a go if there are no responses to my question but I'm not exactly keen on bricking my board.
If the display works, then yes that could be used and it shoudl comunicate the same way. TXRX3 might need a firmware tweak to turn it on. It might be worth a try to connect some wires and see if it works.
Chris hello. I have an orange pi zero installed. All configured, everything works. I want to set the printer to turn on the light on the relay, but I can’t find the plugin. There was even an idea to write my plugin, but I realized that my knowledge is not enough. Can you give me a link or link to the plugin. Thank you in advance!
Can multiple USB connections be made this way? I want to use the nozzle cam from 3do but it looks like it will only connect via USB and if possible, I would like to hide as many wires as I can and leave the ports outside of the case empty and tidy looking
Hey Chris, I have a question about this I am using octoprint on rpi4 powered externally over gpio I don’t want to use type c port because it is bulky and I dont have enough space I would like to connect my skr 2 via this method what if I don’t connect 5v between raspberry and skr Or if I connect other 5v pin of rpi to skr ( while raspberry is externally powered ) will it damage the board?
When i'm on the make menu config, i choose my lpc1769 (120mhz for my skr 1.4 turbo), then on the communication interface i only have UART0 P0.3 P0.2, UART3 P4.29/P4.28). I don't have the GPIO1 and GPIO0 like you do. I have tried UART0, flashed the board, connected the pins, and i can't get a connection. I followed everything like the guide says, and even checked the connections on the TFT panel, which are reversed on my board comparing to yours. What am i doing wrong?
That's an armbian install the correct files might be in a different directory. Only thing I know to do is ask on the orange pi site, maybe they know where the location is.
@@ChrisRiley thanks of the help, I finally got to try this, unfortunately I am not capable of making the probe work. Maybe you could throw some light on this, basically I connected the probe (same wiring order as the connector for the purse buddy board) to the z-endstop (io25), so my probe config is (pin: ^gpio25) and my timc stepper config (diag_pin: ^gpio25). I tried swapping the gnd and io wires on the connector in case the sky pico does have them in different order, no luck. 🙏
I finally figured it out myself. Something that wasn’t clear for me and maybe for others isn’t, in order to make the probe work on the z-end stop pin, the z-homeless jumper cap must be removed. Otherwise the probe it is not read. Same for the filament sensor, no E-homeless jumper cap used if you plug a filament sensor on the E-endstop pin.
I am connected directly via the GPIO on my pi3b and my octopus board. It keeps telling me that I am throttling ...any ideas on what I could do? I am connected via usb because i did not set the firmware correctly at first. Do you think it could fix it? I am using klipper with Fluidd
@@ChrisRiley i found a way, i tried to plug the 2 biggest electrical wires to see if it was really the wires the bottleneck. It was! So now i have 2 wires big enough to supply power to power a damn house on my pi
Hello I have a followed your instructions for setting up klipper But I believe I've done something wrong because the raspberry 4 which I have got Failed to communicate with the printer. I have tried also MainSail..octoklipperpi....simplypi The problem remain in the connection problem via serial port The result is as follows I can't I can't operate normally the printer from LCD or anything Because the LCD is Black I tried to flash back to jyers both printer and lcd I can't operate printer through Pronterface with the same port and band keep it's keep saying connecting Can you do a video describing connecting raspi 4 to ender 3 v2 board 4.2.2 using GPIO
The V2 screen is probably causing part of the problem. If you want to go back to Marlin, you will have to get the firmware Creality uses. I don't think Klipper will be able to support that screen. For the serial issue, make sure the MCU number is correct.
@@ChrisRiley u was completely right .. i succeeded to solve the problem now ..the printer is now connected ... but i am facing an issue was flashing klipper bin file to the ender 3 v2 4.2.2 ... using different sd cards . !! isn't possible to flash klipper bin using serial connection !!directly
Bigtreetech recommend that to not cross the RX-TX connection wires for SKR 3EZ wires. That will be really ok or not? I send a request for clarification for Bigtreetech guys but no answer yet. I follow strictly your clip recommendations but the connection klpper- moonraker is failed. Could anybody help?
I wonder if this will provide a solution to the buffering issues I'm having with Octoprint over USB with my MK3S+. Anyone know if they GPIO/UART is faster than 115200 baud?
where do you get a raspberry pi to do this with? they are about as hard to acquire as regolith from the moons surface. or hillary clinton's deleted emails.
wow, another one of my plugins featured by Chris, that's awesome. One recommendation is to use the options in OctoPrint's Connection panel to Save connection settings and auto-connect on server startup after selecting the port/baudrate prior to connecting. That way when the pi powers on it will auto connect and then display the IP on screen.
Thanks Jim!
Are you suggesting something different than what Chris says at 11:29?
@@Graham_Wideman no, he mentions exactly that at 11:29, but didn't actually click the checkboxes, just mentioned it.
Just what i needed. Same boards, same pi, same problem solved. I had been researching this is the last couple of days... You have been a Godsend! Greetings from STL, Missouri.
I'm glad I could help a fellow Show Me!
Uncanny, the timing of this video. I recently received the BTT Octopus and have been having a time getting kilpper and mainsail to work. You have provided steps I was missing and can’t wait to get back into that project. Will be following the next videos in this series!
Glad I could help!
I really love it when tutorials just work PERFICTLY! Thank you so much!!
Glad it helped!
@@ChrisRiley one issue I’m having though is that suddenly I can’t connect to octopi.local at all…
Wait now it’s working again? Idk but it’s working just fine now..? Idk what’s up with my network.. thank you tho!
I really enjoy the very detailed way @chrisriley has to explain all this. Thanks for all the effort you give on all of your videos, old and new
Happy to help! Thanks for watching
Have been working myself up to getting rid of the usb cable from my printer to the pi and after watching this I think I can wrangle most of it. Just leaving a comment for the algorithm :-)
That's great, thank you
great in-depth tutorial Chris! 👏
Thanks, glad you liked it!
Nice.. Learned a lot about Marlin here. Hope to learn more about Klipper. I will have to admit though, the yellow update in your broswer in the top right had my eyeball twitching. 😁
Lol! Thanks!
That ip plugin tip will save my life thank you!
Happy to help!
Thank you sir, I've been wanting to do this, but was nervous to just hack at it, especially as the price and availability of the Pi have been crazy lately. You gave me the confidence to do this on my E3 V2 board and it was a breeze. Looking forward to other projects you have lined up in the future to use this capability. I love removing the power and usb cables from my setup!
Thanks a lot!
hey i have a skr e3 v2 also and my octoprint works but it wont connect to my printer, did you run into any issues? also what firmware are you using?
@@aaronward6092 I had to run the commands in the video twice before it would connect to my printer.
@@aaronward6092 I just setup my other printer with the same setup and I realized the other edit I had to make in order to make it work. I have the Pi4, and although he says in the video to disable bluetooth for pi2 devices, you also need that enabled to get the 4 to work, at least in my setup. So when you edit the config.txt file, you need to add both lines:
dtoverlay=pi4-miniuart-bt
dtoverlay=disable-bt
@@RyunForsman you didnt get a low voltage warning?
Chris, Thanks for doing this video. I'm in the process of setting up my Octopus Pro on the Rat Rig and wanted to use UART, this information is helping a lot
Happy to help Dave! Thanks
Nice explanation. Nero showed an easier method to get the bin file. Moving it to the same folder as where your config files are and download it from Mainsail/Fluidd. Just in case you have a Mac like me and it’s easier to do it that way.
Thanks!
Hello Chris, I would like to say, yes, you were right :) In MainsailOS it is all already preconfigured. Because we discovered that this Step is mostly the hurdle for a Beginner. Great Video! Keep up your good content. Regards
Thanks for your comment!
I'm just using a 5 year old Asus Chromebox I purchase from work for $5! Running linux server with an Octoprint instance. Works great! So no pin-outs for me! Nice video Chris.
That's awesome! Thanks
WOW! great video!! cant wait to do this! I've always hated powering the pi with usb c.. Plus freeing up the printers usb will help it look cleaner..
Thanks! Good luck on your install!
Just my $0.02 but if you are struggling to get this going with an SKR 1.3, what I did was 1) default USB port should be set to '-1' in Marlin 2.0 with baudrate 250000. I then uncommented 'additional USB port' just under that in the config.h (uncommenting it makes it active) and set it to '0' with a baudrate of 250000. Happy days! Working great! Thanks Chris!
That's great! Thanks for the tip!
Great tutorial. On Marlin, it's also important to set "#define SERIAL_PORT 1", from -1(Serial through USB) otherwise it wont connect
Thanks for the info!
Great job! Want a fun video topic? Getting Klipper to work on a Duet board! It’s not for the faint of heart! I got it working, but not well. I ultimately ended up going with RepRap FW.
Thanks, I'll look into it.
Thanks Chris for the comprehensive video on this interesting topic.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks again Chris, i always understand you way of explaining stuff, just the right amount of description. is there any down sides to using gpio? i have run out or usbs on my PI and just need one more, i also hear so many people complaining about poor quality usb cables giving them grief. i do have a separate 5V power supply so i just need to run a 2 pin cable from my PI to my octopus mcu
Thank you! No downsides that I know of. With the external power supply you should be all set.
Hi Chris, Thanks for making this video, i believe the paths have now changed to /boot/firmware/ cmdline.txt
etc.
I also noticed that when trying to flash the firmware it doesnt disapear and reapear automatically.
Thanks for watching! Interesting, I will have to go back and have a look.
Just as an update: pi4b+ and a SKR mini E3 V2.0 uart to tft connection
sudo nano /boot/config.txt is the same except no need for dtoverlay=disable-bt as it's alreadly listed in the [All] section
no need to touch the cmdline.txt as it doesn'y have the serial....115200 portion anyway
the trick is the "make menuconfig" portion you have to choose the SMT32f103 processor anyway according to Kevin in the klipper github for the SKR mini E3 V2.0
picking serial (PA2 and PA3) gets you to the tft bus on the SKR mini E3 V2.0 (I imagine it's the same for the V3.0 as well) and is listed on the BBT SKR schematics.
I had to do a complete new install for it to work, am currently still adding parts of my old config to it and testing between to make sure it works. Prusa slicer connects no problem.
Just a recap.............Klipper, Pi4b+, SKR mini E3 V2.0 UART to TFT connection
Thanks for pointing me down this path Chris, the options for case development are endless now.........
Awesome, glad you found it, thanks for posting the info.
Ok, so it seems that I have some difficuties making it work. I flashed the firmware twice, both for TFT connection (PA10 and PA9) and for WiFi connector (PD9 and PD8) on SKR 3 EZ. I made changes in both /boot/config.txt and /boot/cmdline.txt, as well as I made changes by raspi-config to enable serial. Works fine with USB so I will stick with that for now, but I wouldn't mind getting some help setting it via GPIO.
I'm having similar issues using Mainsailos and at BTT SKR CR6 board in my Creality CR6 printer ported to Klipper but it is working via USB
These configs can be very fickle. RX/TX pin assignment don't always seem to work the same. I wish there was a better way to troubleshoot them. I will have to think on it.
Chris, thank you so much for your video! Really good as always! I have a Ender-3 with a SKR E3 Turbo and recently I bought a pi zero 2w in order to install it in the same place with the skr designing a new custom cover. So the video arrived at the perfect time. This weekend I finished everything following your guide and I have to say that it works perfect. Everything is in the same box, with one 4020 fan for both (mainboard and pi zero), without extra power supply, or usb cables etc... Just perfect!
The only thing which I would like to ask you is, if I can use a usb webcam which I have us it is, or you think that I need to have an external power supply?
I would be reluctant to use a webcam in this config, they do use a lot of extra power. I would recomend and external power supply. Glad you like the video.
Oh I'm so excited for this one, thank you man :-)
Hope you enjoy it!
Brilliant! been wanting to do this for ages, simply to get rid of the annoying USB Cable that come out the front of my printer and then goes back in. I have had zero luch running a Pi4 from and SKR2 always complains of under voltage.
Glad I could help, thanks for watching
the CPU speed on a Zerro and Zerro 1W is already tight. But if USB is not used but TTL serial then the CPU has one task less. The Zerro 2 W has the same 4-core CPU as the PI 3 A+ and B+. These three are sufficient for the tasks.
Thanks for the info!
you should use something similar to an ifixit plastic spudger when you are pointing around, before you kow it, you short something :) (or atleast, it looks like it)
Lol, I like to live on the edge!
Hi Chris. Great video! One link you need to update. Your link to the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W is just the CASE for $9.99. No pi Zero included. Only a couple of vendors on Amazon had them listed as available for about $75.
Luckily I’m living in small country. Got 4 with 2 GB of RAM for 46 euros recently and zero 2 W for 16 euros. They come in small batches and are sold here quickly, but in a timeframe of day or two, not minutes.
Thanks, I'll look into it.
A lot of the settings were already preconfigured in my Mainsail OS install, so I guess they might have listened to you, or they already knew..?
Awesome, that's good to hear, they probably were already fixed in a later release, I just had an older one.
Double 5V with single ground wire? How would that help?
It really doesn't but it gives you a little more contact realestate.
I agree. if doubling the 5V wires is necessary for the 5V rail to reduce voltage drop (and it may well be), then it is even more necessary for the ground rail, as that provides the reference zero volts for the digital signals. So it seems to me that the dual 5V wires is a strong indication to add one or more additional grounds to/from other nearby ground connection points on the two boards.
I couldn't get the UART to work on my voron. I had the cable right, did all the same steps as you did but just couldn't get the connection. I did it the same day you put out this video too so the timing is amazing, i just wish it worked and I have NO IDEA why it didn't. I tried both orientations of the TX and RX. I know it's usually TX to RX and RX to TX but I also read somewhere not to switch them because the BTT boards do that internally but neither worked.
I wonder if maybe the device name is different for some reason? Do a ls /dev and make sure the AMA00 is there. If not, try chaging to the one you do have in the printer.cfg file.
Chris, thank you so much!!!! Resolved my prolblem!!
Glad it helped!
Did the UART change last week. With the Ender3 the problem is that the USB is on the front so it is easily knocked.
I think I may have killed my SKR Mini v2 because of this. Running a v3 now.
I also added a buck converter to power the PI.
I think for most boards a converter it probably the safest way to go.
A word of caution to owners of the BTT SKR mini e3 V2.. I tried this with a raspberry pi zero w2 using the TFT header for UART communication and power.. and it worked for one print then killed my skr mini. Don't get me wrong.. This is great video and i have an skr mini e3 V3 communicating to a raspberry pi 4 running octoklipper via UART in another printer but that pi is powered with a buck converter through the gpio pins, not the skr mini e3 V3s 5v TFT pin. I hate usb cables lol.. and i will probably convert all my printers to UART communication. But i wont be trying to power a pi from the e3 V2 anymore lol.. I have ordered another V3 to replace my dead board.. hopefully it has a better power delivery circuit than the V2. I've reached out to BTT to ask them exactly what i can expect from the 5v pin on the TFT header.. hopefully i hear back form them.. and hopefully its capable of powering a pi zero w2... cuse this printer looked tooo good without all the usb cables...
Thank you for your insight.
@@ChrisRiley after further investigation i found the positive screw terminal from the main power supply was melted. I doubt the extra amps the pi required was enough to cause this... perhaps an artifact of the of factory tined wires. Ive been meaning to crimp on some ferrule ends on em but just havent had the time.. till now lol.. Replaced the board with the V3. I talked to the btt support who have told me the main board on the v3 cannot support a raspberry pi 0w2 and that the 5v pin on th eTFT header was only capable of 1.5 amp. It was unclear as to weather of not thats 1.5 amps across all 5v pins or just the TFT header. In any case I am trying the V3 in the same configuration even though btt recommended against it cuz i like living on the edge lol.. and i cant imagine the pi 0w2 pulling more than 1.5 amps just running octoklipper.. and i can replace screw terminals if im wrong... so i guess we will see :D
Good luck!
hey chris I been a watcher for years of your channel and I would lie you to make a video on how to setup the rasbery pi 4 to run octoprint on a ssd hard drive and not need a sd card for the rasberry pi any more I have been looking but no one has made a video about that yet thank you for your time.
Hey thank you! Interesting, I don't think I have ever seen that either. I will look into it.
@@ChrisRiley thank you Chris I knew I could count on uou!
Hey Chris I thought I should should you this because you are always into 3d printers and machines and I wanted to show you what I was able to make here is the link to my new video on UA-cam
ua-cam.com/video/-uAWTsUptK0/v-deo.html
@@LegitLeeVelez Very cool man, looking good.
@@ChrisRiley thank you Chris I thought you would like it and I will have more videos on this in the future and I will show you them 😀 👍
great video I used this to connect my Pi4 via the tft35 uart 4 connector so I could keep the touch function and have octopi at the same time and no usb hanging out the front of the main board way cleaner look now.
Good tip! Thanks
I'm interested in doing the same, did you use an external power supply for the pi? UART4 on tft35 has only 3 pins, GND RX4 TX4. Can I use the USB port on tft35 to power the pi?
@@wsandaruwan I'm powering mine with a external supply I did not think of the usb on the screen.
@9:50, where you typed /dev/ttyAMA0…
Where do you type that if you’re using Klipper (Fluidd or Mainsail?)
You shouldn't need to on Klipper, that's what the MCU statement is doing in the printer.cfg file.
Intresting way especially if you want to have the pi close in the printers electronic house, anyway if you want to attach a webcam on octoptint you have to make use of an USB port and need space again. For supply the pi from the printer 24 V I would rather use a small step down pcb than trust on the 5V source from the display.
Thanks for your insight!
Does it provide any advantage to use UART over USB connection?
Sometimes yes, on some of the older boards the serial chip used by the USB connection can slow things down. Now a days, it's mostly for convenince.
After watching your video I'm inspired to do this to a couple of my printers (Ender 3 and Ender 5 Plus)! I'm currently upgrading the Ender 3 to the Creality 4.2.7 board and I'm wondering where the RPi should connect, to the 4.2.7 board (somewhere) or to the display board where there's 2 unused 10 DIP connectors (EXP1 and EXP2). I'm puzzled how you'd connect to the TFT connector on the 4.2.7 board and still be able to use the display. Or should I save the 4.2.7 board for another project and order a couple of BTT Pico controllers? - THANKS!
It's going to be hard on those creality boards to use the Pi and the screen. If you want to do both, upgrading the boards might be the best way to go.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for responding! Since I'm always up for a challenge, I'll try a few things and as a last resort, go by way of the Pico!
@@ChrisRiley any luck? i have the ender 5 plus silent board and want to do this. I’m a bit confused why you can’t just use the exp1 and exp2 connections?
Another great tutorial. 🤟
Thank you! Cheers!
Another useful video 👍
Glad you think so!
Would this work for Libre Renegade and Ender 3 S1? I am using klipper and fluidd
It would if the S1 board had TFT pins, but I am not sure if it does.
Could you also do this with a PC running Octoprint communicating to the mainboard using a USB-to-GPIO adapter? If so, would this render the USB on the mainboard useless or could you still use the board's USB for something else?
Good questions, but I don't know how that would work. On this board I think USB and GPIO are the same, so there could be a conflict if you tried to use both.
So this pico board supports on board klipper with a rasp pi? This is a first for me...
Yes it does.
What if you are using klipper on octoprint? Is it the same in the beginning?
Yes, it will work the same.
Will this work with the SKR Mini E3 V2 and the Ender 3 V2 2.2.2 main boards?
This works perfectly with the SKR Mini E3 V2 board. I just finished setting it up and it worked perfect. Don't follow the pins he showed in the video. Essentially you're looking at the open pins he first showed that are not in the black pin connector. You will not see the 5 pin connector anywhere on the E3 V2 board. They are opposite of what he showed, so going right to left with the orientation he shows on screen, it's 5V, GND, Transmit, Receive, RST. Google SKR Mini E3 V2 and go to the images tab. It'll be the second image from Reddit. It was really easy to do, just make sure 5V and GND match between the board and the Pi, otherwise you could get the smelly smoke of death. If you swap the transmit/receive cables wrong, it won't hurt anything, you'll just never be able to connect to the board.
🙂👍
Hi Chris i need your opinion. For the same money on 2022 what do you prefer: klipper on a btt pico and a pi zero 2 or a Mellow fly pro with rep rap?
I would go with the Mellow board. I think REPRAP is easier to use and the Pi zero 2 is really hard to get.
Is there a series of videos about klipper coming? :)
Probably, I'll see what I can do.
Novice question: If you change from the Einsy RAMBO controller to one of the boards featured in your video will upgrades from Prusa still work 100%. Guess what I am asking what will be affected by changing out the control board when it comes to flash upgrades or other upgrades from Prusa?
No they will not and that is the real down side. When you upgrade from the 8 bit board, you lose all the Prusa firmware awesomeness.
Does Octoprint communicate with the Prusa through the TX and RX pins on the J19 socket of the Einsay Rambo board of the Prusa? If so, is there anything special that needs to be done on the Prusa to make it communicate via those TX and RX pins?
In the Prusa firmware, what class (e.g. Serial, MarlinSerial?) does it use to send and receive via those TX and RX pins on the J19 connector?
I don't know exactly how the code works, but if you use Prusa firmware all you have to do to use it is turn on Rpi port in the settings on the LCD menu. If you use Marlin you would have to setup an additional serial.
Can this be done on the very popular Crealty 422 and 427 boards?
Thanks
If it has TFT pins or TX/RX pins it could be possible.
I'm wondering if you can clarify something. Can you connect two 5v wires from the SKR 2 to the Pi 4 if it's needing more power or will that only work with the BTT Pico board?
You can give it a try, I have had it work on some boards, but not on others. It depends on the power regulator on your mainboard.
I thought the gpio pins had a low max amperage (like in the milliamps range) vs the required 3A need for the pi?
They are pretty low, it doesn't always work. It works much better with the Pi Zero.
@@ChrisRiley So is there an alternative. I see the SKR 3 advertise that it can power a PI4 safely. This cant be what they mean?
@@PalosX I would like to see where the SKR3 says that. Powering it with USB C and using the GPIO is really the best option. Or get a 5v power supply to use with the GPIO pins.
@@ChrisRiley Scroll down to its description about robust
power system
I'd love to know if you've tried having both a SKR board and a TFT screen connected to pi through UART, I've had it working but not efficiently/reliably - currently I think it's saturating the bandwith of the UART port trying to effectively buffer the PI input to the TFT and then outputting that to the TFT. Straight UART without the TFT works like a dream, but I want the moon on a stick, and still be able to use my TFT with the SKR board!
Use a uart on the tft to connect the pi.
Or maybe that's what you have done?
Yeah, any time I try to do multiple devices, things get unperdictable. It's due to bit bashing, it's just hard to get it all working and talking on the same bus.
I just remembered I think I connected my pi to tft wifi port
If anyone is wondering, I’ve spent ages trying to resolve this, and solved it by flashing the latest TFT35 firmware last night and hey presto it’s all working, it can get a little odd when disconnecting/resetting but actually working really well. I’ve got it setup as follows: GPIO Tx, Rx, GND -> TFT35 UART3 Rx, Tx, GND and then the TFT to SKR1.4 turbo as normal. You just need to double check the baud rate matches on all connections, mine is running at 25000 quite nicely. Took bloody ages but BTT must have quietly improved the UART pass through in their firmware I think.
This is exactly what I was looking for, I want to add octoprint and keep my touchscreen functionality. Gonna give this a try
Thanks!
Thank you!
well done!
Thank you!
Having a hard time getting the RPi to connect to an SKR2 via serial. Which serial connection should be selected in the "make menuconfig" window?
Chose GPIO1/GPIO0, make sure you MCU setting is correct in your printer.cfg file as well. It should match the output of the ls /dev command.
If the SKR E3's or other boards RX TX are 5V, and the PI's RX TX GPIO's are 3.3V wont that fry the PI GPIO pins?
The Pi can manage the 5v and 3.3v you just have to make sure you hook up the Pi on the 5v pins.
Very good tutorial as usual but for me no matter what I do, how many times, different methods (like manual installation) I can't get it to work in my SKR 2 (cpu stm32f429) with a Pi zero W. Any suggestion pls? Mean while back to Marlin. :(
So the first thing I always check in power. Try powering it with an adapter instead of the board and see if it works. These boards have a bad habit of the power regulator not working correctly.
Awesome.. Thanks
Thank you!
Well, I don't figure this stands MUCH of a chance, but here goes anyway:
I just purchased my idea of an upgrade kit from BTT for my Ender3: an SKR mini E3 V3 with a TFT35 touchscreen PLUS the BTT Pi 1.2 - with the silly notion of moving to Klipper instead of Marlin. I went to school with a Marlin - we go WAY back - but it's time to be moving ON!!! jk
Not kidding about wanting (badly) to go with Klipper, BUT -- I can't even get MARLIN to work with this setup, and the thing that makes me CRAZY is that I canNOT get ANSWERS from BTT "tech support!!!!" For one thing, I couldn't find decent documentation to TRY the GPIO connection instead of ye olde USB cable - what I DID see in their documentation DID NOT MATCH ANY labels on the mini board - so I didn't attempt it.
Well, that was a fore-taste of the delights of their shabby documentation, because what they define for the USB (serial) port definition ALSO differs from REALITY in such a stupendous way that it won't BEGIN to work! This is the port def'n that has to go in one's printer.cfg file under the [serial] section as something like "/dev/serial/by_id/xxxxblahblahblahxxxx" Well, if there AIN'T NO "serial" folder/directory under the /dev/ folder/directory, the rest of that line is so much bovine scat! AT LEAST FIVE TIMES I have asked for the CORRECT def'n from their tech support meatheads, but they have YET to even act like they UNDERSTAND THE QUESTION!!!
Meanwhile, the LCD screen INSISTS that there is NO PRINTER ATTACHED, so - unsurprisingly - NONE of the simplest functions work (like moving X Y or Z or even HOMING them!)
All in all, this is beginning to look like just another exercise in futility, and I should just cease and desist wasting any MORE time and brain-sweat on it - and just get a refund and try something else! Too bad - especially when I see so many YT vids making it look SO EASY!!!
This type of GPIO setup can be very fickle. The first issue it usually power, a lot of the board pins don't have enough current to run the Pi. Next is the serial device as you saw. It could be listed as a AMA or AMC device. I would run the ls /dev with it cabled, then with it not and try to compare them. It might be seen as a different type.
@@ChrisRiley Hi Chris - and THANKS for taking the time - I am truly honored! As for MY time - clearly less valuable - there STILL is a LIMIT, and I've about reached it! I so wanted to move up to klipper with this self-rolled "kit," and the main selling point for this Pi clone was its ease of POWERING it from my Ender3's power supply - offsetting even the lack of a camera port and the severely limited OS choice. But to NOT WORK at ALL? Not acceptable! WiFi doesn't work, the USB port that is supposed to connect to the Mini by wire is NOT at the /dev/serial/by-id/xxxxx port they describe, and I have asked them at least 7 times what the REAL spec should be - with NO ANSWER AT ALL -- well, I've had it with these clowns. I'm glad they seem to work for YOU, but in my experience: 3 fails out of 3 devices just don't cut it! But thanks again - the steam coming out my ears is surely NOT because of YOU!!! Keep up the good work!!!
PS - I'm currently thinking that the SKR Mini E3 is seriously flawed, which MAY be making both of the other two pieces LOOK BAD. I decided to try connecting my PC to the Mini via its micro USB port, a la Repetier, and like the Pi, the PC doesn't see the Mini board AT ALL. So the Q is - will Amazon replace just the mini board....
Tried doing this on my Ender 3 S1 Pro but cannot get a connection established. Octoprint sends a message and gets a reply, but connection never happens. Any thoughts?
Only thing I can think of is maybe there is a conflicted on the serial. All I would know to do it try another serial option in the firmware.
I cannot get this to work for the life of me. The USB connection works fine. I went through all the steps and double check everything. check the continuity of my dupont jumper. checked ls /dev and the ttyAMA0 is there. Strangely the USB is using /dev/ttyACM0 and that isn't listed in the ls /dev. My knowledge of programming the rasp pi is very limited and have no idea what the next steps would be. any ideas or suggestions?
If the device shows up in the ls /dev command like you show, then you should be set. What is the issue? It won't connect in Klipper or something?
Hi I have just got a SKR 3 EZ could i use the tx and rx pins for the WiFi connector instead of using a WiFi adapter on this board I think the pins are PD8 and PD9 I will use an external adapter for powering the Pi.
Yes, in fact, if you are not going to use REPRAP with wifi, I would go the TFT route.
@ChrisRiley question. If I'm powering my Pi directly from my printer's PS, Can I still connect the GPIO 14 and 15 to the SKR Mini E3's TFT tx and rx pins?
Yes, no problem, it will work that way.
Hi Chris, Why doesn´t work in my biqu bx, there is a uart connection in my tft70 display but i can´t connect my raspberry
The BX might be configured differently because of how they use the screen. There might have to be some changed made to the firmware.
Im using a Btt SB1 with the skr mini e3 v3 and the Pi section is not working for me the sudo nano command pulls up nothign
nano could be missing. Try sudo vi instead of nano.
What about for creality board 4.2.7 what is the display one I'm using the 5 pin right behind the display but next to it I see 4 pins maybe that's it?
I looked at the board pinout, I don't see any TFT pins available.
I own a Tronxy xy 2 pro printer with faulty mobo so I want to replace the system for Marlin or Klipper, what do you think should I use? As bad as it can be the tronxy mobo, is very complete system as it handles 3 fans controllable, filament run out sensor and resume printing all in one, is not easy to find a replacement as complete as this one. Your help will be appreciated, thanks.
I would look at the SKR 3, with that board you can run any firmware you chose.
@@ChrisRiley I will, thanks.
And what if I want to connect rpi throo btt tft e3 35 uart slot? to use octoprint along with screen.
I think you might have serial conflict, it might work, but I don't think it would be very reliable.
tried get the pi4 gpio pins to work on the octopus 1.1 board, can't get it to work, only powering the pi does.
I will be tackleing the Octopus soon.
Is there another way to see if the configuration for my UART communication is working? I tested it with ls -l /dev/serial/by-id/ but thats only if you use USB when I am right.
I wish it was easier. There are some commands you can use to try and figure it out, check this out. tldp.org/HOWTO/Serial-HOWTO-16.html
and the file klipper uf2 isn't on my system either.
What OS are you running?
I would like to implement this method on my FLSUN SR which has the MKS_Robin_Nano_V3 control board. TX3 and RX3 are the only UART pins available (as far as I can see) and they are used by the display(again, as far as I can see). Could I ditch the display and connect the pins to the Raspberry Pi without having to recompile marlin and this would work? I am kind of willing to give this a go if there are no responses to my question but I'm not exactly keen on bricking my board.
Actually RX1 and TX1 are available (but no header socket soldered onto the board - not a good sign) - could I use this??
If the display works, then yes that could be used and it shoudl comunicate the same way. TXRX3 might need a firmware tweak to turn it on. It might be worth a try to connect some wires and see if it works.
Chris hello. I have an orange pi zero installed. All configured, everything works. I want to set the printer to turn on the light on the relay, but I can’t find the plugin. There was even an idea to write my plugin, but I realized that my knowledge is not enough. Can you give me a link or link to the plugin. Thank you in advance!
Chris, sorry for the trouble, I found the solution myself. System Command Editor Plugin
I'm glad you got it going!
Can multiple USB connections be made this way? I want to use the nozzle cam from 3do but it looks like it will only connect via USB and if possible, I would like to hide as many wires as I can and leave the ports outside of the case empty and tidy looking
There is only 1 serial tied to the GPIO bus, it would get really messy if you tried to do more than one device.
@Chris Riley thank you that's exactly what I needed to know!
Hey Chris,
I have a question about this
I am using octoprint on rpi4 powered externally over gpio
I don’t want to use type c port because it is bulky and I dont have enough space
I would like to connect my skr 2 via this method what if I don’t connect 5v between raspberry and skr
Or if I connect other 5v pin of rpi to skr ( while raspberry is externally powered ) will it damage the board?
You should be okay, just don't hook up the 5v from the board to the pi. Make sure they both share the same ground.
will this work on the prusa mk3s chris.
The MK3 has a header to do this on the back of the board, so it's even easier.
When i'm on the make menu config, i choose my lpc1769 (120mhz for my skr 1.4 turbo), then on the communication interface i only have UART0 P0.3 P0.2, UART3 P4.29/P4.28). I don't have the GPIO1 and GPIO0 like you do. I have tried UART0, flashed the board, connected the pins, and i can't get a connection. I followed everything like the guide says, and even checked the connections on the TFT panel, which are reversed on my board comparing to yours. What am i doing wrong?
They changed it up a bit recently. I think you want UART3 for that board.
that sudo nano didn't work for me. I get a blank screen.
You are in cd /boot ?
@@ChrisRiley yup
I followed this tutorial, but could not get a connection with my octopus v1.1 board. 🤔
Running Marlin or Klipper? It's either the serial port number in Marlin or the MCU serial setting in the printer.cfg for klipper.
@@ChrisRiley Marlin 2. I setup serial port -1 and 2
@@3D_printer_guy I will have to test, the Octopus has a lot going.
cmdline txt is not a file on my pi and config txt is not a file on my pi
You are in cd /boot ?
endee3 v2?
I don't think it has any TFT pins available.
my issue is that im using an orange pi zero 2 and when i try sudo nano.... the files are empty. does anyone have an idea about this?
That's an armbian install the correct files might be in a different directory. Only thing I know to do is ask on the orange pi site, maybe they know where the location is.
I tried this on 2 different SKR boards 1) default 2) running system with no luck ....Not sure what my issue is well i do its me but still need Help
It could be a power issue, try running with another power supply, remove the power wire from the GPIO.
@@ChrisRiley Chris He is a question in programming of the com port I do leave it at a -1 or enable it ...I never tryed...
@@tomandrews5392 yes, I would set serial 0 to -1 and try seral 1 set to 2.
Do you know how I can configure a probe like super Pinda from prusa (which is 5v) on the SKR Pico?
You can use the Z stop pins to power and trigger it.
@@ChrisRiley thanks of the help, I finally got to try this, unfortunately I am not capable of making the probe work. Maybe you could throw some light on this, basically I connected the probe (same wiring order as the connector for the purse buddy board) to the z-endstop (io25), so my probe config is (pin: ^gpio25) and my timc stepper config (diag_pin: ^gpio25).
I tried swapping the gnd and io wires on the connector in case the sky pico does have them in different order, no luck.
🙏
I finally figured it out myself.
Something that wasn’t clear for me and maybe for others isn’t, in order to make the probe work on the z-end stop pin, the z-homeless jumper cap must be removed. Otherwise the probe it is not read.
Same for the filament sensor, no E-homeless jumper cap used if you plug a filament sensor on the E-endstop pin.
@@danielserranotorres4230 Awesome, very cool you figured this out and thank you for posting the results.
is UART mode work in orange pi ?
It depends which Orange Pi. I have seen it work on PI PC, but some of the others ones I don't think it would.
@@ChrisRileyI've tried this method on orange pi 3 lts but it doesn't work with me, I don't know if I did something wrong.
@@ChrisRiley when I run last two codes in 22:20 It takes me to empty folders I think the problem may be from this.
I am connected directly via the GPIO on my pi3b and my octopus board. It keeps telling me that I am throttling ...any ideas on what I could do? I am connected via usb because i did not set the firmware correctly at first. Do you think it could fix it? I am using klipper with Fluidd
Unfortunately not all boards can supply enough current to power the Pi. About your only option would be to use an external power supply for the Pi.
@@ChrisRiley i found a way, i tried to plug the 2 biggest electrical wires to see if it was really the wires the bottleneck. It was! So now i have 2 wires big enough to supply power to power a damn house on my pi
Hello I have a followed your instructions for setting up klipper But I believe I've done something wrong because the raspberry 4 which I have got Failed to communicate with the printer.
I have tried also MainSail..octoklipperpi....simplypi
The problem remain in the connection problem via serial port
The result is as follows
I can't I can't operate normally the printer from LCD or anything Because the LCD is Black I tried to flash back to jyers both printer and lcd
I can't operate printer through Pronterface with the same port and band keep it's keep saying connecting
Can you do a video describing connecting raspi 4 to ender 3 v2 board 4.2.2 using GPIO
The V2 screen is probably causing part of the problem. If you want to go back to Marlin, you will have to get the firmware Creality uses. I don't think Klipper will be able to support that screen. For the serial issue, make sure the MCU number is correct.
@@ChrisRiley u was completely right .. i succeeded to solve the problem now ..the printer is now connected ... but i am facing an issue was flashing klipper bin file to the ender 3 v2 4.2.2 ... using different sd cards . !! isn't possible to flash klipper bin using serial connection !!directly
So, why gpio over usb?
On some of the older boards the serial chip used by the USB connection can slow things down. Now a days, it's mostly for convenince.
@@ChrisRiley ok, thanks :)
I still don't get why would one use pico
Just to save space, it makes a nice package when you bolt it to the pi.
Bigtreetech recommend that to not cross the RX-TX connection wires for SKR 3EZ wires. That will be really ok or not? I send a request for clarification for Bigtreetech guys but no answer yet. I follow strictly your clip recommendations but the connection klpper- moonraker is failed. Could anybody help?
RX-TX, it should only work one way. I would check the logs in klipper to see if it says anything.
@@ChrisRiley ok Chris, solved.
Thanks.
Why would the communication interface part of menuconfig be missing when I go to build the firmware?
Which MCU are you using?
I wonder if this will provide a solution to the buffering issues I'm having with Octoprint over USB with my MK3S+. Anyone know if they GPIO/UART is faster than 115200 baud?
For the Einsy baord, I would like this would be about the same. I am suprised you are seeing buffereing.
@@ChrisRiley Perhaps you're right. I think I narrowed it down to a memory leak in my RPI when connecting through Octopod to check the webcam.
Do you know, if the skr 1.3 can provide enough current over the tft connector for the pi or is it recommended ot provide external power?
I would have to consult BTT but I would recommend external power if you're not sure.
Why does everyone still use Putty when Windows now has SSH built in to Command Line terminal?
For me it's just force of habit. I use Windows SSH at work a lot actually.
i have the skr3 board could i use the swd connector? or tap into the tft wires?
You can use the tft
where do you get a raspberry pi to do this with?
they are about as hard to acquire as regolith from the moons surface.
or hillary clinton's deleted emails.
Lol, right!?