QTV #8 - Connecting / Joining Electrical Wires - Wall Nuts vs Wire Nuts
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
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In this video I take a look at the handy Wago Wall-Nuts / Pushwire J-Box Connectors. These innovative wire connectors make easy work of connecting electrical wiring together. I do a comparison with wire nut connectors.
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Excellent video. I had bought a Lithonia fluorescent light fixture that had these kind of connectors. I figured it was as simple as pushing in the connecting wire, but this provided a bit more confidence. Thanks for posting.
When I wired homes, I always twisted the solid copper wires together with lineman's pliers, then used spring lock wire nuts. You really do not have to twist them together(especially if one conductor is stranded and the other is solid) before you use the wire nut. If the proper size wire nut is used, and all the wires are properly stripped/lined up, the connection is excellent. For other wiring of small gauge I always use 3M silicone filled squeeze connectors, or just solder/heat shrink them for a permanent/trouble free connection.
Wow, those 'wall nuts' are awesome! It's just like the connectors on the back of a wall socket. I'll have to get some of them!
Love Wago nuts. I used them on a huge 12V soffit lighting setup.
This is why I am a subscriber. I learn a lot from you AND the comments. Thanks.
Excellent video. This video expressed the basic of Connecting or Joining Electrical Wires. Thanks for posting.
Hi I am Lloyd M Gardiner jr and I am from the Bahamas and I injoy watching your Video you open my eye to the best thing I have seen on wire nuts I will never use the round wire nuts again thanks a lot LOVE YOUR SHOW
It took me over a year to figure out (hear/listen for) T4D. Thanks for saying what the acronym (QTV) is. Thumbs up.
Whoever told you not to twist the solid core wires before using a wirenut was absolutely correct. If the wire pulls out, you are using the incorrect size. Generally household wiring is done with 12AWG or 14AWG wire. So there are a few sizes of wirenuts.
The WAGO connectors are the BEST!
I have thrown all my old connectors away.
There are also the 222 type and slim 221 type which have levers on them and therefor can be used on fine stranded wire.
Today I picked up a dozen recessed lighting fixtures at Lowe's for a DIY LED lighting upgrade. A couple of days ago I installed five can light fixtures from my ten year old inventory. The electrical connections were all standard traditional twist wire nuts. The new lighting fixtures contained the wall-nuts on each of the fixture's leads -- hot, common, and ground.
All I can say is wow! Those wall-nuts cut my installation-per-fixture time in half at least!
Won't be doing big upgrades or installations without them in the future.
Going to go buy some of these today. I generally use regular Wire Nuts which work fine but when doing larger numbers of wire and/or larger size of wires, they can be harder to get a really tight fit. Thanks for the video.
Great video! Just bought some and you answered all my questions with this demo!
I've never come across either of those before, quite interesting; thanks!
Nice informational video Martin :). Your new connector looks much much better than the screw-on one or screwterminal block. They are the so called "Wago" connectors for more professional, longlasting work (your new one looks a little bit like Wago 2273 connectors and there are other types too). The "easy removables" (Wago 222) with the orange lever are nice to have. Wagos are used for ages in professional work, at least were I live ;) - interesting, that you just found them ;)) . In Europe you can also get these too without the little lever, as simple "stick in" type (like yours) in inline format (Wago 273), which I prefer more than the square with the transparent case.
I personally like the speed of the push-in connectors. Also, the push-in type look clean inside your electrical box.
Great product it saves your fingers and trying to twist wires in tight spots thumbs up
Haven't seen these in Australia. Usually we use blue point (aka "BP") connectors. Choc-block is occasionally seen, but usually for lower voltages (24VAC, etc.). Generally when adding another power outlet it's cable is just daisy-chained from the original GPO's terminals (no additional connectors required). I've also seen gel-based connectors that you squeeze on top and the goo inside protects the connection from moisture and corrosion.
My comment is due to my ongoing 2yr. experience as an electrician trainee in one of the countries in the world with the strictest rules for electrical installations - Norway:
Wago "Wall-Nuts" is the way to go for any professional electrician, the types you've got we use on 1,5mm2 ( 10A 230/400VAC) and 2,5mm2 (13/15A/16A 230/400VAC) cables and there is a red version for 4-6mm2 (20/25A 230/400VAC) cables.
The "chocolate blocks" or "sugar blocks" as I know them is unfortunately very common in existing installations, but is fortunately not heavily used in new or updated installations - as goes for the Torix screw connectors. Some like them, and some don't - but I'd use Wago any day.
They also make a "quick-clip-version", gray with orange handles. That type is approved for fine-stranded cable and is fantastic for example troubleshooting and temporary installations - along with a wide variety of hobbyist uses such as within RC-equipment.
Magnus K Thanks for your post. I have also used the "quick-clip-version" and shown them in a video...they are brilliant.
Here in Germany we do use mostly Wagos as well. They are practical, offer a very good insulation and won´t loosen over time.
And also with all wago connectors you can use a multimeter without dismantling the connections.
I like those push connectors. Going to try in my home
Yes I have seen the Wago push wire connectors a few times. Easy to get in UK from Screwfix.
Hi Martin
I spent the last ten years working in France as an electrician, and I've used several hundred of these connectors with (to my knowledge) not one problem.
Good luck with the "damp".
Very good tutorial. Have you any video showing how wiring is done at home? I want to learn it so that I can repair my household wiring.
usually its quite easy to remove the wires just twist and pull you just didnt twist them enough :). never have seen a wire nut here in Germany thats so exotic :)
I've used them daily for the past ten years or more. to remove one (obsolete) wire you can cut it at whatever length you can spare, and remove it by pulling and twisting the the wire left to right. you want to cut your way out of the connector by making kind of like an crossed pattern pulling out, or rotating it out so you form a spiral groove/cut on your strand. If your wire needs to be reinstalled you can hold the blocks and twist the wire out with pliers and alot of twisting.
the main benefit is that you can connect as much strands as you need to easily by getting the right connector. usually the amount of strands + atleast one, for future modifications.
One of the problems was that the things are transparant for only a few years now, they used to be gray/black, and it made it impossible to find problems or check others work. you could only pull and twist the wires somewhat.
where i live regulations say you can only use 2,5mm2 wires in static installations, and use 1,5mm2 wires for light fixtures etc. This type of connector fits both, and is much easier and faster to install and troubleshoot.
Wago lever nut.
Trust me, best thing ever.
Nearly all electricians in the Netherlands are using these Wago brand "push wire connectors" from Germany. In the old days they used wire nuts which still have their use for certain applications, I'm also familiar with the terminal screw blocks. I've been using the Wago clamps myself (professionally) and they are just great and very easy to use. The one thing I could think about, you have 120V AC mains and we have 230V AC mains. For the same amount of power you need twice the amount of current. So you need heavier gauge wire and tougher wire connectors, they could get more warm.
It would be unusual for a US 120 volt circuit to draw more than 15 or 20 Amps. Generally if it needs more power in a residential application it would be wired 240 volt where the 2 legs could draw alot more than that. Now Wago and Ideal have pushfits for 10AWG good for 30 Amps I believe.
Nifty product!
Thank you for an interesting video.. I am looking at how to split wires though, making one wire into two off a battery and since the positive wire has come loose off a anderson connection, was wondering if this would be a suitable method to split the positive and maybe the negative wires from a 48 volt 20 amp DC battery?
I use wago push in type connectors all the time, but they are not atleast for our codes allowed on stranded wire, only solid wire. But wago makes a type for lock/unlock wich is allowed for stranded aswell, and the are reusable. The push in type is a onetime use according to our code.
With stranded wiring, here we have to "pin" the ends. But even so, they are still illegal inside walls.
Great video thank you.
Great blog Martin, this question is for anyone who has experience with walnut wire connectors. Can I push in a twisted wire from a bathroom fan into a walnut connector? Thanks, Fred
Wire nuts are fine for anything less than 30 amps.
Have seen problems with them on higher current applications.
I use split bolt connectors for anything above 30 amps.
They are a pain to make up,(mainly because of all the rubber & vinyl taping involved) but the connection is superior to wall-nuts or wire nuts.
In the Netherlands we use this push-in connectors more then 20 years.
They look like nice connectors. I live in the US, where on household wiring you are most likely to find wire nuts. The wires, connectors and switch/outlet are sometimes stuffed into a small box. Often, if you remove the wiring and device for replacement, it is difficult to fit everything back in the box. It's hard to see the size of the connectors, but if they are larger than a orange or yellow wire nut, switching connectors may cause everything to not fit back in the box.
I was taught to put 2 stripped conductors (14AWG) side by side, put the wire nut over them, and twist the nut until you see the conductors start to wind around each other.
I don't know why, but i've never seen wire nuts. Old way: chocolate, screws in connection boxes, sockets, switches etc. Various Wago clamps in more modern connection boxes. I don't even know if wire nuts are legal and if they are/were possible to buy in Europe. I think that connecting wires with the exception of the fixed installations is illegal today, as well as mounting plugs and sockets to them and only completely sealed power cords are allowed (that means you can't disassemble them)
very helpful, thanx
How much room is taken up by quick connectors vs wire nuts. I would like to use quick connectors they seem to hold more securely. All this in outlet or handi boxes.
can you use that connector to add electrical sockets to a ring circuit?
Good video -a few quick tips for future videos though: less cuts at the start (so it's not so jumpy - they were short bits) and a little more awareness of the focal point of the camera (e.g. don't hold things close to the lens if it's going to make them blurry there - hold them by your face). You have a great story to tell and don't want to lose viewers with a few bumps at the start.
I liked your set up with all the parts laid out, and the closeups of the box, your wire stripper, etc. Good work and informative - thanks!
Choc a block or chocolate block or connector block is very common in the UK. Great for connecting multiple cores of wire together.
I agree with you here in the States its difficult to find the chocolate box connectors. I usually bring my connectors from back home when on vacation..
I have some old NEMA 5-15 duplex outlets that use this method ov cable connexion. And like the connectors Todd's post they have a place where you can insert a screwdriver and release the wires easily. They also have jumpers that can be pulled out with pliers to run each outlet from a separate circuit.
But yeah, these connectors could be handy if you're sure you're not gonna change the circuit. I wouldn't be too keen on pulling the wires out.
In New Zealand the common connector for joining TPS (Romex type cable) in an outlet box is called an "Acorn". They are essentially a single pole, single ended piece ov chocolate block with one screw and tend to be oversized so you can join maybe 3-4 2.5mm2 (just a little under 13 AWG) conductors in there. That is the size that is run over here for standard domestic 10 amp outlets. It is fused at 20 amps.
Good video. martin
can you use them for speaker wire in a vehicle?
Commonly, electrical tape is applied onto wirenuts, NOT to ensure continuity, but to maintain structural integrity -- by having the tape take up external stress. The tape is also used (probably superfluously) to close the opening and prevent intrusion by some contaminant -- especially metallic debris.
Can you get this for hot and neutral in the same piece ? White and black?
If this are the original Wago connectors then you forgot to mention a little slot in them, little flat hole in front on this model, that gives you the ability to check if circuit is under voltage with your simple neon lamp screwdriver/tester. This connectors are really good, they take less space and are much faster in use.
Sader Dragon Good point...thanks for posting.
OR a voltage/continuity tester so you can check if your circuit is grounded, earthed and if your RCD responds to a 30mA leakage.
I use push connectors everyday and they work good when used properly. Just remember that they are single use only. It is possible to remove the wire from the connector but they will not hold if you try to reuse them.
How does the Wego Wall Nuts effect Electrical box cubit air loading versus the wire nut or solder/taped connections? The concept of Wego seems to follow the Stab Lock Electrical Panel engineering where the contact is made by spring mechanical pressure versus the screw in pressure connection like the Square D Electrical Panels. The Wego system is a pressure connection set by manufacturer versus the contact pressure apples directly by the electrician with a wire nut - but the Wago System would save installation time
I like a good Screw but I'm trying to push it in now. If you've got a tight fit sometimes you can't get a good screw and to be able to slip it in means you can be in and out quickly.
1. Thanks for this video. I was stuck because a week ago I called out an electrician for the first time ever and he left my ceiling lamp wires with those.
Obviously a mistake, as 99% of ceiling lamps come with fine twisted wires which cannot be used.
lucky you showed that these can be removed (no need to cut and peel ceiling wires).
2. I think these connectors are idiotic :D Nothing beats terminal block ("chocolate bar") connectors.
Yes, they do require some dexterity but then again, if you can't handle a bit of wire properly, you shouldn't touch electricity at all.
Perhaps it's just me but I don't like to "half-ass" things. If I do something, I do it comprehensively and robustly. Sometimes false economies but most of the time - saved headaches in the future!
In belgium we use them to (steekklemmen) in dutch mostly of the brand wago
i wonder if wall nuts and wire nuts could be tested with the correct gauge wires connected to perhaps 5kg weights tied to wire to test if they will hold? guess the connectors aren't rated to hold a certain amount of weight (stress on wire)? perhaps that could be way to test which is best....
I'm not sure how different they are then the ones I've used, but the ones I used have a slot for you to slide a tool in, as soon as you slide the tool in the wires come out easily. Kind of a release mechanism. I have had one problem when I had a bunch of wires in a small box, as I was pushing them in one of the Commons managed to pull out. But I may not have stuck it in as thoroughly as I should have. I do use them a lot and have had excellent results with them both stranded and solid.
There are types which have a common spring with a button, they're okay so long as you don't mix sizes. Most (if not all) Wago products have a separate clamping spring for each conductor.
Monkeh616 Shouldn't there still be a tool like a molex pin extractor tool that you could insert into the back end of each hole to disengage the spring?
***** On push wire connectors? No, they're for solid core cable only. You basically unscrew the conductor to remove it (twist and pull).
I am okay with Wall-Nuts in certain situations but not for general line voltage wiring. Spring loaded (Wall Nut, Stab-Lok, etc) connectors only contact a very small area of the wire. This is evident when you pulled the wire out. The long shiny bit was caused by the spring scraping/shaving the wire on the way out. The actual in-use contact area is much smaller. It's their very nature as larger surface contact will reduce the clamping force provided by the small spring.
If the wire can vibrate, move, or rotate in the connector, the spring tab will wear a groove into the wire to the point where the connection will fail under load and melt the connector. Each wire gets connected to the others via that same tiny contact area unlike a wire nut that presses them together. I don't care for the idea of connecting 12 gauge wires together with 20 gauge clips.
Unlike Wall Nuts, the spring in a wire nut is not solely relied upon for electrical contact. It's there to reinforce the plastic cap, cut through any oxidation and dig into clean metal, and form threads to pull the wires into the cone where they are greatly compressed against each other.
Something for the overseas folks to consider - Most residential loads in the U.S. are 110 volt instead of the 220v in most other countries (yeah, we goofed there) so our loads require twice the amount of current to do the same work. A connection that will work fine on 220v can fail miserable at 110v.
Don't confuse the wago push connectors with the crappy 'backstab' type connections in the US. I've used those wgaos on 32amp circuits with no problems. The contact point is the flat metal the other side of the spring, not the spring itself
That's good to know. Thanks :)
I'd be a little dubious about those that Martin had however, (He said, wavering a little). I noted "made in China" on the box.
mjlorton any chance you can set some up at their max rating plus a bit (32 amps or thereabouts) on a LV test rig maybe outdoors, to see if they melt down? I've run them at 240v, 32amp with no issues but it'd be interesting to see. If not, I MAY have to go back to making videos myself, I have all 3 types of connector (Wirenuts, Wagos, and connector strip) along with some crimp lugs, maybe I could string all 3 in series, measure voltage drop across each type at their max current etc... and then see if they melt down in an enclosed area (no ventilation) at max current over a prolonged time...
***** Oh no, made in china! It can't be any good!
Meanwhile, back in reality..
Monkeh616 Not saying made in china is bad, I will be honest, I figure china gives manufacturers what they ask for/pay for.
The problem comes that if the manuf's ask for 'dirt cheap', the chinese will willingly oblige. Maybe I'm doing wago a disservice, maybe they did ask for 'decent quality'.
China will give you EXACTLY what you pay for. I run my own business, I buy things from China all the time. I pay decent prices, I get decent quality, sorry if my post came across as 'chinese=bad quality'. Not necessarily, but it always makes me wonder, if that makes sense
Hold on, like what are you doing trying to join 8 - #12's together?
great vid.... thanks
wago has outside a marking how long to strip off lenth.
When using wire nuts, it is best to twist the wires first for a secure connection, then the wire nut is more for insulation to prevent shorts.
Do they sell these at local hardware stores?
Spliceline In-line Wire Connectors by Ideal Industries I would be interested if you have ever used these connectors and how they test. they came up on amazon as an alternative with Wago connectors
I find amazing that the USA uses such antiquated connectors as wire nuts.
We use those in Poland since like 2005. They're common as dirt.
1:48 Actually here we call them by their brand name : simply "Wago" or "Wago connector". I have used those for ages and currently I am mostly using the Wago 222 types.
If you have 3 hole wagos and need to connect four wires together, would jumpering two wagos together be unsafe for any reason? I don't see how it would but my first rule doing my own wiring is "don't guess."
A proper connection will be a twisted set of wire ( that is a POSSITIVE connection) then you may use a "wire nut" to reinforce the conection from disconnection force, Then after that you are to use electrical tape for voltage leakage and to reinforce tha wire nut , That is a COMPLETE and reliable connection. if you use "other" connections you are reducing the amount of serface area of contact , and in turn increasing resistance, and increasing heat under load, and thats where fires start, its all about enought surface contact :)
A twisted connection stretches and weakens the copper. The extra surface area is fairly pointless, as the contact area of a normal connector is more than sufficient. Most of the cross sectional area of a conductor is present for volt drop concerns, especially at low US voltages. Also, copper is a great heatsink: Spot heating is not a concern except at the absolute worst joints. Wire nuts are a terrible method which most abandoned decades ago.
im not egging , But i have seen serveral just i have seen several "non" twisted wire connections fail (quick connects,slip in connects) as simple google search for those type of failers is evedent. but as of yet i have yet to see a proper twisted set failer do to arcing and over heating, I'm just saying :)
(as a long time electrician) The correct way to connect two wires is to "bite" the insulation of the wire with a stripper -- NOT contacting the conductor at all, then using the weakness in the jacket you just created, "pop" the end off the insulation with outward force. So, by controlling the arms of the stripper, you first wound the vinyl then tear it! That way, there are no grooves cut in the copper conductor, and it tends not to fracture as it invariably does if you nick the copper.
Then using needle-nose pliers, you hold both wires (or the first two) parallel with the ends even and using lineman pliers, twist the wires AROUND EACH OTHER. You DO NOT twist one wire around the other -- you must impart a spiral bend to BOTH wires.
So the wire nut is protecting the very solid connection, and NOT acting as the electrical connector. As Eddie pointed out, the contact area inside the wire "nut" winds up being quite small, so it is the actual wire-to-wire contact that ensures safety. The "nut" is only a secure insulating cover.
If you have more than two wires, you twist the first two with a looser radius all the way, then add a third and fourth. It is a good idea to make sure all the conductors are even at the end, so no one is sticking out beyond the rest, otherwise that one will engage the spring in the wirenut and could leave the others exposed to shorts beyond the shoulder of the wirenut. Fortunately, lineman pliers can cut eight or ten wires at the same time, and if your hands aren't strong enough to do it, hey! There's always a career in fast food!
meex88hiphop
You start with two, but you wrap them with a looser spiral, then add another, then the fourth one, finally cutting the end of the bundle cleanly with the cutting jaws of your lineman pliers. It is too difficult to bend four wires at once!
As far as I know wire nuts were made illegal in the UK many years ago, the only wiring you see them on these days was done before the 60's its either choc strip, crimps or dedicated screw connector bars that you see in house wiring these days and in sockets they themselves act as the junction as the terminal posts are made large enough to take at least 3 wires, they have to take 2 as they are on a ring main.
I find it tough to remove one wire on a wall nut when working live
Here in Portugal these treminais are required
A wall-nut type (friction fit) have higher resistance then properly twisted wire-nut type. Make a measurement and you will see. In my house the outlets and switches were installed with the friction fit option, I have reconnected all my outlets/switches using the compression screws. Contractors love the friction fit as they are faster.
Please don't compare proper cage clamp connectors with the garbage your cheap sockets are fitted with.
If you say make a measurement...then it is not so easy measure it. maybe with 6.5 digit ohm meter with kelvin probes yes..but you can't see much difference with your normal multimeter. Btw. i think we are not using those spring nuts here in EU for good reason. I'm not sure what would time, moisture and higher currents do to that kind of conections... Don't use that .. But again i'm not from USA and maybe there isn't one house that burned from it :)
The ones I was referring to were in good quality outlets/switches so I assume the spring clamps should be pretty good(?). My opinion, based on some experience and reading around is that a good quality screw-clamps are more reliable than spring-clamps (I stand to be corrected). Yes, the resistance measurements may be ambiguous. MARTIN: here is a possible test. Make up connections with 12G using different methods and run 120V, 15-20A through. Test-1: Measure the voltage drop across each junction (if any) and Test-2: Using the FLIR look for differences in temperature at the junctions (if any). Cheers, Mark
that is good idea. I would also suggest some oxidation so you can check how resistance increase also with temperature. Would be interesting to see results :)
Mark Beeunas Good suggestions Mark.
Wouldn't even need 120V. Any source voltage (AC or DC) and load that results in ~10-20 amps through the connector would allow the tests. Smaller currents would be usable depending on the sensitivity of the tools taking the voltage or temperature readings.
Both test results use current and resistance for input.
Power (heat) = I^2*R
Voltage drop = I*R
Lower voltage will result in lower wattage in the load (V*I), so less heat to deal with.
Granted, there would be some variability due to these being rated for 20A AC 60HZ versus testing with DC.
Does it work for cable of multiple wires?
no
You should never re-use those. Here in the Netherlands they are the standard for like 10 years now, re-use is forbidden.
Re-use may be forbidden in the Netherlands, but the package literally says "reusable".
I don't believe in the wall nuts/push clips for many reasons: #1) much less contact area than properly twisted conductors with a wire nut, meaning it can't carry nearly as much current safely, without heating up, #2) twisting the wires gives lots of copper-to-copper contact for current transfer, meaning no possible galvanic action between dissimilar metals (i.e. like a wire & push clip) - and soft copper mates much better with more soft copper than hard spring steel, #3) the force applied by a push nut is much less than twisted wires+wire nut (a wire nut's edges can actually apply thousands of Lbs/sq inch, as the cutting edges are very sharp, and by screwing it on, you exert a lot of force - breaking through any oxidation/dirt, in effect fusing the metals), #4) by twisting the wires first, then adding a nut, you are actually securing the wires in *2* physically different ways, rather than just 1 - think of it as insurance / belts and braces = less chance of working loose and arcing or shorting - just note how easy it is to move a wire in a push nut vs. twisted wires+wire nut, #5) most good electricians I know don't like to use the push-in terminals, which are essentially the same thing, for these same reasons - unless they're on a contract/fixed-price bid and in a hurry, #6) I don't think the US NEC even allows the use of push-in terminals (e.g. on the back of a receptacle) for through-wired connections (i.e. there is a downstream load also connected), only leaf nodes (i.e. end of a line).
.
But your call - if you don't want to take the time to do a wire nut correctly, it might be less effective than the push clip, if you're willing to accept the above.
Hm, curiously your points are in direct contradiction to what a lot of other people commented regarding wire nuts and push in connectors. It seems like depending on what people are used to, i.e. wire nuts or push-ins they tend to favour them. If I compare the systems it seems to me like the wire nuts have a far bigger risk for failure of correct installation than the push-ins. The installation of the push ins seems to be less prone to error if you ask me. The final result might be comparable or better, seen from a wire nut connection perspective, but not if done incorrectly. In order to actually asess the quality of the connection one would have to measure the resistance the failing current and so on for the different connector types.
Your points are correct I have been in construction for 40 years. Push in terminals suck and come loose. Doing wire nuts like you described they won’t fail. And if you didn’t want nuts use staycons. Copper crimp made for solid copper wire but those usually only get used on ground wires
I try to get my guys to use these on the job and the only thing I'm hearing is that they're used to the wire nuts and they are old school, my thing is that if you don't like technology why bother getting a new car with more safety features? So I've used push connect my self and they're a lot faster to work with and lot more safer but I, some countries stop using wiring nuts long time ago like the UK so if you just give push connect a chance I promise you will love them and another thing they take up a lot less space in the Box, I use push connect in every outlets and light switch boxes in my house and no problem whatsoever, it's a win-win
Has anyone even heard of BP Connectors?
Its all we seem to use in Australia.
The connector box is widely use here in my country and cheap, never seen wire nut use anywhere, it look kind of dodgy holding 2 wire with wire nut or maybe i am not custom to it.
10:28 - RIP headphone users!!
Thanks for the heads up )
In Germany screw terminals are widely use and they are cheap and reliable.
Wall nuts seem ok for small current applications,not suitable for troubleshooting and do not appear reusable.Screw on nuts seem untrustworthy and the amount of
stress they can withstand is arbitary without disintegrating.The SA connector is fine
provided it is anchored and is used in a safe environment.
German outlets do have these "J-Box Connectors" as a standard connection for the wires; Two for live, neutral and ground.
So there is no need for additional connectors if you want to extend your cable to the next outlet.
These silly germans ;)
Interesting, here in Brazil we prefer to use the same connector blocks as in South Africa, also I've never seen a wirenut here.
In France we see a lot of "chocolate blocks", we call them "sugar cubes", but while the are legal, fire departments do not recommend them because they are one of the leading causes of fire. In my commercial work, we were banned from using them by our insurance companies.
smellysam What do you guys use then?
smellysam What do you guys use then?
difflocktwo
Mostly 222's or similar things from other manufacturers.
Certain clients require a certain brand/model...
Why not use the unused inputs for testing?
You typically don't need to - these push-in connectors almost always come with a test port on the clear part, specially designed for testing. I also wouldn't want to put my test lead in a hole and have the nut grab it so tight I need to pry it out.
or non-contact voltage detectors?
The tension springs in waygo connectors are also used to connect modern electrical in-wall sockets to the wire, but also include screw terminals. The problem with the tension springs is their loss of tension if the connection heats up due to high current loads. Perhaps this isn't likely where there is 220Vac, but for the 115Vac case, the current required to deliver the same amount of power as the 220Vac case is 4 times higher. So in the US, it is possible for the tension springs to become weak and heat up even more. Vibration could also cause them to become loose and heat up. I prefer the wire nuts. If the proper size wire nut is used for the gauge and number of wires joined, the connection can be extremely secure. I've often seen wire nuts tightened on wires to the point where the individual wires remain twisted together securely even after the wire nut is removed. The wire nut can apply extreme pressure to clamp the wires together, and as long as the wires are stripped according to directions, the conductors are distant and well insulated from fingers. Wire nuts are not as fast or as easy as poking a wire into a hole, but fast isn't important compared to safety. Waygo and wire nuts each have their place as current and voltage are important factors in the standards used by different countries. Cheers from the US.
Measure the resistance of the connection.
Put some current through it and measure the heat.
None, WAGO's are perfect. Only problem with them are idiots who strip the wires way too long or too short.
I couldn't pull wires out of a push-in connector, so I cut it off. They should make releasable clamps for those connectors.
They already did. Look for "WAGO 221-412" for example.
They do come out, you just need to pull a little harder
The push type connectors have had problems with heat on circuits that have any significant current flowing through them. try using wire kearneys or other split bolt type connectors. In the old days we'd twist, solder and tape, (The lowest resistance and best physical and electrical connection)...
In the UK, soldered or crimped connections are the only 2 allowed to be 'inaccessible', showing the "code" (wiring regulations here) understands that crimped and/or soldered connections are much more secure than anything threaded or spring loaded
*****
In the US we have to have ANY splice or connection in an accessible junction box.
OSHbots Makes sense. I think it goes back to the UK habit of plastering cables into walls (which so far as I know, is utterly alien to the US, and unless you use type UF cable, probably against code)
***** No, soldering and crimping are _not_ the only allowed inaccessible connections. And crimping a solid core wire is very much unacceptable.
Monkeh616 Do you have a cite, perchance? Talking UK IEE/IET regs here... I always understood soldered or crimped were acceptable in inaccessible joints. I'm happy to learn if i'm wrong :)
Crimping solid core definitely requires a crimp terminal and tool designed for the job
Checkout Wago 221 series and be amazed
Not all receptacles use 12 gauge wire.
Yes, WAGOs look nice and professional, but their reliability are poor. Choc-locks tend to overheat and fail by losing the plastic insulation around them on a slight overload, these WAGOs connect the wires with much less active conducting surface, therefore they fail in much less time if slightly overloaded. The levered type WAGOs are a bit better, and easier to disconnect the wires, but they tend to lose the insulation too when overloaded. The wire nuts (which you have to twist to connect the wires) are better, especially if you twist the wires around each other before applying the nut.
But the best (the least dangerous) way is to solder the wires together. Soldering provides the largest conducting surface between the wires, and you can even increase the surface by twisting the wires around each other before soldering, this method is called as wire-wrapping. This is the most forgivable method of connecting wires, it has some structural strengthness too. And you can use solid, stranded and fine-stranded wire to be soldered, it doesn't matter. It has only two disadvantages, you need a soldering iron, some solder, and maybe some flux to solder, and you can't solder aluminum (aluminium) wires with a standard equipment.
nifty things
Don't see wirenuts here in the UK
You do if I've been there ;-)
Oh I get it haha. :P
For a very low price you can use outstanding 3M Scotchlok connectors, they are permanent though, but the best you can buy over here. You can get 30 pieces for less than £5 and they are waterproof and moisture proof!
Ahh yes those connectors. I tend to use choc a block or just solder two wires together and tape. I do see those old 3m connectors in telephone connection boxes mounted outside the house.
Kris TheTrader
Those are actually quite expensive, and if people think the contact area on a cage clamp is small, they'd have a conniption fit over the contact area of a Scotchlok style connector. They're not rated for comparable current levels, either.
I've never really had much respect for the ol' "wire nut" way of doing mains wiring. Here you have high voltage, high-current capable wires, and you join them together in a way significantly worse than you would your low-voltage, low-current electronics components.... Makes no sense what so ever. Thankfully where I live you can buy splitter boxes, that although not the handiest things, do at least use very robust methods for fastening the conductors.
I've always wondered why it's not common practise to solder wires together as the main way of joining them, and using something like a wire nut for isolating/securing the wire bundle.
Type in Google Search: New York City at Night...OK - now answer this Question: Do you think they have a problem with electric connectors? Yes you are Right! They do not. I am using "Old School" Cone-shaped Wire Nut Connectors with Spring insert and I do not have any problems with them. They just work, well tested by Billions (yes with B not M) and all inspectors are happy with them as well :-) But if you want to try new things, that's fine with me.... more power to you and good luck :-)
Product place video.
These should not be used for anything with high current. You will have more resistance due to the very small contact area of the holding springs. They also will come off the wire with a twisting motion and are bulky on top of it. They are appropriate for a couple places but I would not use them in an outlet. The mechanical connection you get with a good quality correctly sized wire nut is far superior
They are rated for 32A (except in the US, where you can't carry such currents through wiring which fits in them, because you have immense volt drop issues) and are quite suitable for such currents. The contact area is much greater than the spring, the contact resistance is negligable.
They are _meant_ to come off with a twisting motion. Cables aren't meant to move inside boxes!
Monkeh616 The fact is that wires do have the potential of moving in outlets as you plug and unplug devices which is the reason I would not use these in outlets. They would be appropriate in light fixtures that actually don't move. I can easily see a solid core wire coming loose if it is pushed into a box where the wire is put into a position where there's a constant outward force on the connector and the slight movement from plugging/unplugging causes the wire to wiggle itself out of the connector and potentially causing a fire. Again, I would not use these in outlets.
seephor This is what strain relief is for. Believe it or not, screws come lose under those conditions, and a properly secured cage clamp simply does not.
Monkeh616 My argument is under normal conditions where a novice electrician or DIY pushes some wires into a box and screws on a cover ignoring strain etc, a twisted pair capped with a wire nut would provide a better physical connection than a push-in Wall Nut. When I was replacing my outlets, the previous installer used the push-in ports at the back instead of wrapping them around the side screws. Most of the wires simply popped out when I pulled out the outlet to access the wires. I'm sorry but this type of connection of live wires does not make me feel warm and fuzzy inside, Any strain on one of those wires over time could come out and cause a fire. My point is, why take the risk when you can spend 2 more minutes securing them down under the screw?
seephor There is no risk if you perform the work correctly. I'm sorry, but you've dealt with poor quality hardware and incompetent electricians. That is not the fault of a widely used, highly regarded type of terminal.
Once again, do not compare cheap outlets with proper terminals.
The US style of screw termination is terrible, and the rest of the world abandoned it for gas-tight methods decades ago in all applications.
MJ,
Try these lever nuts, they are much better and are re-useable! Look for them on Amazon.com:
www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1/186-4280758-7916802?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=lever+nuts
Robert
These seem a better solution to the reusability problem and may be ok for trouble shooting
Isn't it amazing how everything has to be a 'nut', even if it has absolutely nothing to do with a thread?
Rigged robots gonna take over
I cringe when I see US electrical installations. It always looks like a botch job. Just the idea of having to use insulating tape to make connections more reliable is crazy. And don't get me started on the wall outlets than won't hold any plug for long and allow you to touch the live contacts when not fully inserted (I barely dared to connect a coffee machine or TV when I was in the US).
On the WAGO wall nuts (which is one of the quality brands available here): they are used in pretty much all new installations for maybe a decade or so. They are really useful, because the wires can turn in them without coming loose (or loosing any contact as you saw), which makes it much easier to push wires into wiring boxes. It's also much easier to connect more than two wires.
I would not reuse them. Just toss them when you remove them. They are cheap, and it is possible that they will no longer clamp the wire strong enough after you remove them.
I don't trust Wago type connectors. I think contact area is too small. In case of overloading it when the case melts mechanical strength of connection is very weak. I will never ever use them in sockets circuit 2.5mm2. Maybe in lighting installations 1.5mm2 with a small current flowing. I prefer to use chocolate blocks made of brass.
Wago have been proven over decades. Beware of Chinese imitations.