Hello! Thanks for your videos. New subscriber here, and jus purchased this kit. I started building over the weekend. I have a problem and need your help. Sorry no pro here as this is the only 2nd kit I've ever built, having the Tamiya Hotshot as the first lol.. Well, problem is that the set screw that keeps the bottom shock in place keeps on turning and won't go all the way in to lock the shock in. Not sure if the suspension arm hole is compromised or the set screw itself. Only one out of three is the problem.. Any ideas of how to get this fixed?
So when the set screw is flush with the too of the arm you stop turning. Its probably compromised now. You could try contacting associated and see if they will send you another one or just buy another set of arms. No i wouldn’t run it like that loose. Thanks for sub!
Hello.. New subcriber here and been watching your videos over and over.. lol.. Trying to checkout at Amain with my wishlists as we speak.. What shade of blue was used here? Tamiya dark metalic blue?
Hi Chris! I’m on the engine now. Did you twist the tubing inlet where the high speed needle is? If so, what is the procedure as I don’t want to mess up anything to include any settings.
Yes, you just slightly loosen the brass fitting around the high speed needle then pivot to desired location and snug it back up no settings will be changed.
Sorry but it's me again.. What flywheel collet did you use? The one that came with the kit seems to be too tight for the O.S. engine.. Do I have to spread the collet apart?
@@SuperFastRc Weird that mine does not fit as it does not slide in.. What's your suggestion? .. You mean the flywheel nut prior to installing metal and composite clutches?
@@SuperFastRc Lifesaver lol.. Any specific reason why the nut on the housing has to go first prior to the clutch springs? Also, did you use a flywheel tool for the nut or just the conventional wrench wrapped with electric tape?
Hi again! I'm almost done.. working on radio tray now and have the same servos as you are using. Now just waiting for M7 radio and receiver to come.. Now super dumb question considering the savox monster wires are all black, how does it go in the Sanwa receiver? Will I fry anything if plug it in the wrong way? Also, where does the power switch plug in the receiver? Sorry again as it has been more thant a decade since my last RC.
Once you have your radio system in it will all make sense. They are kinda slotted so they can only go in one way. Also some servo connectors are labeled. Battery plugs in to the Batt channel. The transponder plugs into channel 3.
@@SuperFastRc Thanks again Chris.. Another related question. My Sanwa M17 comes with the RX-493 receiver. Is there a need to stick the antenna out of the receiver box or OK just to leave intact sealed in the box? Sorry for another noob question :)
@@SuperFastRc Help please.. Battery channel is the same as bind plug on the rx 593... lol. Now when the bind plug is in, where do I plug the battery/switch?
What's up superfast,I'm running a 3.2 it's my first nitro and have been having a heck of a time finding a aluminum bell crank,did you use one on your 3.2 or just ran the carbon stuff,I did find 2 pcs. To the bell crank that are aluminum but the arms that connect to the steering rack have been impossible the exotek is only for the 4 and 4.1. Associated only sells the 2 pcs. I have. Thanks for any advise,keep the vids coming
@@SuperFastRc Because New doesn't mean better. The further you lay those shocks down, the shaft an base of the shock body are taking the most stress. There's a certain degree where too much is to much.
@@SuperFastRc Watch a few videos of the Hardcore mountain bike land where the front fork is beyond 65° 64°. Over time it's stretching and wallowing out fork body.
Thank you for the video!! Are you still running the truggy shock shafts on the new 4.1 short shocks with the +2 frt and +4 RR shock end eyelets like you did on your RC8B4E? Cheers
@@SuperFastRc Thank you for the reply! The 4.1 kits include 33.5mm frt & 42.5mm RR shock shafts.. I believe you recommend the 35.5mm frt & 44.5mm RR shock shafts (truggy shafts), are the longer truggy shafts still recommended even though they are not included in the 4.1 kits? Do you have a preference between +0 frt or +2 frt for loose rough tracks?
Quick question, would you choose the rc8b4.1 over the rc8b4. It is about a $200 difference. I already purchased the rc8b4 rwb from amain. Getting another one for my son. If I decide to get the 4.1 I’ll keep that buggy and give him the regular RC8B4. From looking at your videos there’s not that much of a big difference to justify $200. Knowing that I can use the same front and rear arms, and probably some other things as well. Kind of make it a hybrid 4.1 if I need to. I’m not racing just Driving on the track my son and I are building at our barn. I also bought a couple of 10 scale RCB 74.2 and the RC8B4E. Also, reedy servo or savox servos, $50 difference? Thanks
Working in reverse- I run savox servos currently. Tough as nails. Now the difference between the 4 and 4.1 - the 4.1 is more durable and better on low grip surfaces. The B4 comes with the hard plastics vs the B4.1 comes with soft. The soft is better in cooler temperatures where the hard plastics will break pretty easy in the cold. In the summer it’s really not an issue. And you can always upgrade the B4 to 4.1 arms so whatever way you want to go you are good really 🤷♂️
Hello! Thanks for your videos. New subscriber here, and jus purchased this kit. I started building over the weekend. I have a problem and need your help. Sorry no pro here as this is the only 2nd kit I've ever built, having the Tamiya Hotshot as the first lol.. Well, problem is that the set screw that keeps the bottom shock in place keeps on turning and won't go all the way in to lock the shock in. Not sure if the suspension arm hole is compromised or the set screw itself. Only one out of three is the problem.. Any ideas of how to get this fixed?
So when the set screw is flush with the too of the arm you stop turning. Its probably compromised now. You could try contacting associated and see if they will send you another one or just buy another set of arms. No i wouldn’t run it like that loose. Thanks for sub!
Hello.. New subcriber here and been watching your videos over and over.. lol.. Trying to checkout at Amain with my wishlists as we speak.. What shade of blue was used here? Tamiya dark metalic blue?
CREATEX COLORS W30402 WICKED COLOR PEARL BLUE
Hi Chris! I’m on the engine now. Did you twist the tubing inlet where the high speed needle is? If so, what is the procedure as I don’t want to mess up anything to include any settings.
Yes, you just slightly loosen the brass fitting around the high speed needle then pivot to desired location and snug it back up no settings will be changed.
@@SuperFastRc Got... Mind sharing what specific tool you used, or simply a long nose pliers?
@@MrDucatiti 8mm turnbuckle wrench is what i used
Shocks on the rear are not seated correctly
@@martinbielby334 how so?
Sorry but it's me again.. What flywheel collet did you use? The one that came with the kit seems to be too tight for the O.S. engine.. Do I have to spread the collet apart?
Mine fit just fine, kit clutch. Make sure you put the nut in the clutch housing before you install the clutch springs.
@@SuperFastRc Weird that mine does not fit as it does not slide in.. What's your suggestion? .. You mean the flywheel nut prior to installing metal and composite clutches?
@@MrDucatiti collet goes on the crank shaft, then the clutch and flywheel assembly. Then your flywheel nut.
Stock should fit perfectly, im running exclusively os
@@SuperFastRc Lifesaver lol.. Any specific reason why the nut on the housing has to go first prior to the clutch springs? Also, did you use a flywheel tool for the nut or just the conventional wrench wrapped with electric tape?
Hi again! I'm almost done.. working on radio tray now and have the same servos as you are using. Now just waiting for M7 radio and receiver to come.. Now super dumb question considering the savox monster wires are all black, how does it go in the Sanwa receiver? Will I fry anything if plug it in the wrong way? Also, where does the power switch plug in the receiver? Sorry again as it has been more thant a decade since my last RC.
Once you have your radio system in it will all make sense. They are kinda slotted so they can only go in one way. Also some servo connectors are labeled. Battery plugs in to the Batt channel. The transponder plugs into channel 3.
@@SuperFastRc Thank you. This helps a lot. Looking forward to more videos! :)
@@SuperFastRc Thanks again Chris.. Another related question. My Sanwa M17 comes with the RX-493 receiver. Is there a need to stick the antenna out of the receiver box or OK just to leave intact sealed in the box? Sorry for another noob question :)
@@SuperFastRc Help please.. Battery channel is the same as bind plug on the rx 593... lol. Now when the bind plug is in, where do I plug the battery/switch?
@@MrDucatiti you can plug the battery into channel 3 for binding.
Is there a video that shows all parts to convert your old b4
I have a video on the ebuggy conversion.
My last nitro was a 3.2
What's up superfast,I'm running a 3.2 it's my first nitro and have been having a heck of a time finding a aluminum bell crank,did you use one on your 3.2 or just ran the carbon stuff,I did find 2 pcs. To the bell crank that are aluminum but the arms that connect to the steering rack have been impossible the exotek is only for the 4 and 4.1. Associated only sells the 2 pcs. I have. Thanks for any advise,keep the vids coming
I have never had any issues with the factory composite parts. I really don’t see a need and I’m using strong 600oz servos 🤷♂️
@@SuperFastRc could you do a video on installing throttle and break linkage? I've herd the throttle spring is to long and to trim it down?
@@xS.B.FEINx269 Hmm i haven’t had that issue, i can show you how my linkage works? I also need to install the FT Aluminum throttle arm.
I would still want the older shocks an diffs.
Question. Why?
@@SuperFastRc Because New doesn't mean better. The further you lay those shocks down, the shaft an base of the shock body are taking the most stress. There's a certain degree where too much is to much.
@@SuperFastRc The shock will flex before it compresses.
@@DarkMagician225 Fair enough thanks for the input!
@@SuperFastRc Watch a few videos of the Hardcore mountain bike land where the front fork is beyond 65° 64°. Over time it's stretching and wallowing out fork body.
Are the arms interchangeable to the rc8b4 limited edition?
Yes! Please see this video: B4.1 arms on your B4 / B4E!
ua-cam.com/video/G_dKgi3Arhw/v-deo.html
I found it after I asked. Thanks for taking the time to produce your videos. They are very informative.
Thank you for the video!! Are you still running the truggy shock shafts on the new 4.1 short shocks with the +2 frt and +4 RR shock end eyelets like you did on your RC8B4E? Cheers
Thanks! So on the 4.1 and 4.1E that Truggy shock configuration is included. The 4.1 is running +0 front and +4 rear shock eyelets in the kit setup.
@@SuperFastRc Thank you for the reply! The 4.1 kits include 33.5mm frt & 42.5mm RR shock shafts.. I believe you recommend the 35.5mm frt & 44.5mm RR shock shafts (truggy shafts), are the longer truggy shafts still recommended even though they are not included in the 4.1 kits? Do you have a preference between +0 frt or +2 frt for loose rough tracks?
@@MrDougmx7 From what I understand the short bodies negate the need for the longer shafts. They have the same pack with shorter shafts.
@@SuperFastRcAwesome, I appreciate the explanation and response. Cheers!
@@MrDougmx7 👍 Make sure to watch Spencer and Kurts video here : ua-cam.com/users/liveMkK3owCRB7s?si=xhS5OOJ8_s_vmfp3
Quick question, would you choose the rc8b4.1 over the rc8b4. It is about a $200 difference. I already purchased the rc8b4 rwb from amain. Getting another one for my son. If I decide to get the 4.1 I’ll keep that buggy and give him the regular RC8B4. From looking at your videos there’s not that much of a big difference to justify $200. Knowing that I can use the same front and rear arms, and probably some other things as well. Kind of make it a hybrid 4.1 if I need to. I’m not racing just Driving on the track my son and I are building at our barn. I also bought a couple of 10 scale RCB 74.2 and the RC8B4E. Also, reedy servo or savox servos, $50 difference? Thanks
Working in reverse- I run savox servos currently. Tough as nails. Now the difference between the 4 and 4.1 - the 4.1 is more durable and better on low grip surfaces. The B4 comes with the hard plastics vs the B4.1 comes with soft. The soft is better in cooler temperatures where the hard plastics will break pretty easy in the cold. In the summer it’s really not an issue. And you can always upgrade the B4 to 4.1 arms so whatever way you want to go you are good really 🤷♂️
Thanks. I will more than likely just get the b4 and get the 4.1 arms if needed. I am in SE Tn so not cold.
Ended up getting the 4.1. Thanks for the input.