$15 Tip To DOUBLE The Life Of Your Raised Beds
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- This super simple tip will save you time, money, and hassle, and increase the life of your raised beds for just $15 or less!
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I used 4 x 4 square corner posts on the inside of my raised beds, they're attached with three inch screws. The beds have been through 5 Maine winters so far and the corners are just as flush as the day I built them. The cost of the posts are probably cheaper than the brackets, you just need to purchase one 8 foot post and cut to size.
Maine Nature and Photography--I like your idea best! I don't want raised concrete blocks because it's too hard and might break bones if someone ever falls on it. I don't care for using brackets because I'm thinking it would eventually be a rusty piece of metal that you might cut yourself on. The 4x4 post idea makes sense because it allows better connection and presents a pyramid face toward the dirt both ways. Plus you've actually done it. Thanks.
I have my beds built with 4 x 4 posts in each corner as well. It takes up a little more space (my beds are 4' x 4') but well worth it I figure. I am using 2 screws per 2 x 4. I have five 2 x 4 stacked for 17.5" raised beds. Each bed costs me around $50 with screws for cheap pine. As 2 x 4 pieces fail, I'll just replace the ones which fail. When I start having to replace the 4 x 4 posts thats when I'll replace the whole thing. I might dig out the borders of the bed before winter and throw in compost pile. That way if there is any expansion it will have a little room inside.
Did you use cheap wood like untreated douglas fir / pine? That's what I am using. Are they stil holding up for you? I am using 3 1/2" screws as well with 4 x 4 posts.
@@dandavis8300 No rust if you use galvanized screws and non-rusting brackets.
Put a tarp or some plastic over your bed in the winter. Not having water get into your bed will make it last longer.
I wonder how that would impact soil microbiome?
Great video, thanks! Also, cedar does not last 30-40 years anymore because its only old growth cedar that has the rot resistant properties. Cedar now is new growth and will also rot in10-12 years. There is a non toxic wood treatment now called Internal Wood Stabilizer by Timber Pro Coatings USA that is a clear, colorless, permanent sealer. You have to order it factory direct, but it will triple the life of the wood and is a two coat, one time application. Never need to retreat! Amazing stuff.
I found brick corner stones at Home Depot for $3.50 a piece. You need 4 for a 6" deep bed or 8 for a 12" deep bed. No screws, bolts, brackets needed. You just level them off, space them out the distance you need them, slide the 2X?? into it and you're done. There is a place for you to stake it with a piece of rebar if you choose to. In a few years when a board goes bad, you take out the board and slide a new one in. Bed longevity is indefinite.
As a carpenter and to save more money get yourself a length of 2inch by 2inch timber. Screw the timber at each corner of the bed. Both sides.
You get a like anyway for effort. Good job
Sharp Flat I eventually just pounded rebar in to hold the sides. The corners always rot for me.
I put timber into the corners as well, if you leave them long you can use it to anchor the bed into the ground as well.
L
What is height of wood for the frames? Looks like Thickness 2", correct?
Oliver Clair I was going to mention the same thing. Or a 2x4
That corner bracket installed on the side of the bed only has one point of contact on the end piece. Choosing the shorter one to save money would've worked better if you'd have installed the bracket on the inside where it could have the contact points that it's actually designed to have.
Inside brackets can also be made with a wood wedge, and that would cost pennies.
Bought a package of 1" metal brick ties many years ago. Easy to bend for corners. I use 2 per corner as needed. Cost was $20ish for 100 ties. Been handy having those on hand when older beds gave out over the years. :)
Strapping designed to go on studs to keep walls square would work as well.
Thank you. I never ever would have thought of the freezing and expanding causing blow outs. You rock. I just built 4 new beds and will be adding brackets.
I buy 18"x4"x12" concrete blocks from Home Depot. It runs $24-30 per bed, that is a 3' by 12' bed. The blocks are less than $2 per block. Bury them about 3" below grade and lay mulch 2"-4" deep outside...they will never move, they will never rot, they are flexible in their arrangement and easily rearranged. They have thermal mass to conserve heat in the shoulder seasons and insulate in summer (they wick a little moisture out to cool). Used wood for years, replaced multiple times....should have done this years ago...cheaper than timbers or lumber with brackets...looks good too!
Upload a picture and lets take a look! Thank you.
My parents built 2 beds with cinder blocks 40+ years ago. No issues so far.
Fly ash is toxic and leaches.
@@heavensabvus they don't use fly ash anymore in cinder blocks. That was a problem in the past though, you're right. Anyone using these blocks should buy new ones that don't contain fly ash
Hi, I know this is two years old, but am I reading the dimensions correct, they're 18 inches by 4 by 12? I can't fine blocks with those dimensions anywhere online. And you buy how many?
I would have put those "outside" brackets on the inside to have more support compared to just one screw on one board then 5 on the other board if that makes sense.
They are designed for the inside of a right angle. However the elements may be harsher in the inside.
Use carpenter glue in the corner cuts just very little and use vegetable oil(linseed oil) for end cut with a brush cheaper and it works.
Lots of different ways to reinforce the bed corners...scrap lumber, plumbers tape, angle iron from old bed frame...so you materials might be free if you know how to scrounge.
Southwest Florida here. What is this "winter" you speak about ?? LOL ;)
Kidding of coarse.
Landscaping timbers & retaining wall block work great down here for all year around gardening... obviously it's more expensive than traditional lumber, but much more durable.
You actually do make a good observation Luke. I appreciate your attention to detail.
For the landscaping timbers, I used a similar interior support L-bracket during construction time just to help keep everything secure and somewhat square-(ish), LOL... Not that it hurts, right?
I really appreciate your frequent uploads. You help boost my motivation, 'cause right NOW is the time I start seeds here in zone 10. Thank you again my friend. I hope you, Sindy & the little one have a fantastic weekend ahead
Take care
When I lived in Tampa, I remember once, in February, thinking of something winter-ish and I remember thinking, "When winter time gets here, I'm going to...." and then it hit me....this "winter" I was thinking of was never coming, although when it did get cold in Tampa, it felt like it was colder there than it ever gets in NW Alabama. I swear, 40º in Tampa was colder than 14º here!
LOL! Aint that the truth :)
Tim Huffman What is " Snow " ? lol
Tim Huffman I remember the year it snowed in Miami, Christmas Eve. Around 1989 or so. But I did garden year round in Gainesville. Great weather.
In Louisiana we usually say something like "Of course we have winter, it was on a Tuesday!"
I pulled the soil back all the way around the frame about 4 inches and mounded up in the bed. This says prove successful and it doesn’t cost anything to do it. All you need to do in a spring is when you amend your bed spread the soil back out.
Perfect timing. I just ran across this, and tomorrow I will put together two raised beds. I was thinking about how to reinforce the corners, and voilá! You answered my thought. 🇨🇦❤️👍🇨🇦
My 12" tall boxes are made with treated boards and are going on 18 years in a Utah climate where it is very dry so I have to water all summer long. I started by using 3" screws to put them together and then followed them up with 8" corner brackets. Although my boxes do definitely look 18 years old they are still holding together nicely ready for at least another 5 or more years. I garden year round with low tunnels in the winter so my beds retain water even through out the winters with 3 feet of snow around them and 65 to 70 degrees depending on the day inside them. Yes, even at night.
Althouh you have 6 points of contact on the corner bracket, only 1 goes onto the adjacent piece. I suggest buying longer corner brackets. Longer ones are about 4.50 ea at Lowes. There are also selling corner brackets for raised beds for 14.99, 4 in the package.
Ok I have a probably stupid question. Would it help the pressure if i put empty milk cartons down in the soil in the middle along the bed to allow area for collapse and relieve pressure on the outside boards? I heard that laugh. Hey I'm trying a raised bed this year for the first time. Oh boy do I have alot to learn, which obviously is why I'm binging on your videos. We are in west Michigan so I'm so glad I found you.
Great video. I'm thinking about starting some raised beds myself. All of your videos are very insightful and I must thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I hope you read the comments before using this corner reinforcement technique.
Clearing the dirtnext to thr wood in the inside of the bed. Would also work. Just create a small ditch
In my experience, driving rebar or 2ft U-posts on higher beds every 4 feet on longer beds has helped with warping boards which can lead to “blowouts”.
This makes so much sense I would have probably never thought of it! That will be a "will do".
Just scoop the soil out of the corners and put some straw in them before winter.
Great advice, I figure to build another raised bed directly over the outside perimeter of the old bed after 8yrs to support the bed further for another 8+yrs...
I'd recommend ignoring hardware altogether and just pick up some 'concrete planter wall blocks' for each corner. They're cheap, readily available, and you no longer have to worry about your nails / screws coming loose.
Useful. At the moment, I've been working on a triangular piece of land I'm trying to turn into a place where I can grow a foot forest, that's about 150ft long and a 150ft wide, divided by 2, for an area about 10K square feet, total - and I'm dealing with 6 foot tall goldenrod (and other tall weeds), logs and large branches, plus some junk I'll have to deal with, and I can't even use a tractor with a mowing attachment due to the way some logs are, and I don't have access to a riding lawn mower, meaning I have to use a push mower to cut this stuff down. On the plus side, lots of organic material, from grass clippings, and I should be able to get some manure that I can use wheelbarrow to move to different parts.
I had considered brackets...glad to know I was on the right track!
Very cool. We just put in some raised beds this year... and we're a bit further North than you. Thanks for the tip.
Try using ECO WOOD orange oil to treat your wood before making your boxes. It works really well...my raised beds treated this way are on their 6th year and I live in North Idaho!
I used the Rigid-Tie galvanized corner connectors (#RTC2Z) for my corners. This allows for connecting the top and bottom row of lumber for a deeper bed and ties everything together, tightly, into a square corner. They are $3-5 each depending on how many you buy, and you need 4 per bed. ( I think the bulk packs were 12 pieces for like $42)
I really see what your talking about luke I have three 4/4 raised beds made out of non treated cedar I just bought them this year I think eventually iam going to have to do the same about three years ago I also bought three other raised beds there made out of a non rot resistant material
Thanks so much we all have nicer longer lasting , etc, etc beds in our garden thanks again for helping us to keep our beds stronger, nicer, growing better crops yeyyyy for you!
Wouldn't it also be helpful to pull the soil away from the insides of the beds toward the center to reduce presure against the boards???
Another idea, in case somebody hasn't suggested it yet, is to wrap the wood in UV-protected plastic. Mulching plastic would likely suffice, using staples to secure. Do this ahead of assembling the wood beams and it might cut down on numerous problems. Just be sure that the wood is completely dry and sealed properly.
Pocket holes and screws.... worked wonders for me so far
good tip,have used them. work great.
very good tip. thank you
What are your thoughts on adding a plastic cover hoop to prevent the water from entering the soil and it kept the beds from freezing and an added bonus for me I hope I can keep my red wiggles in my raise beds all year long?
Wish I had seen this before my husband built the beds following your other video where you didn’t use any brackets... 😕
Put the braces on now. They can go on the top and outside.
I have heard of covering with black plastic as well.
Our regular wood beds rot and get eaten by termites within 2 years in Florida, even PT wood gets eaten here. that's why we decided to build shou sugi ban beds and seal them with oil. And even the oil sealed beds have to be re-sealed every year, seems like. This time we're trying tung oil that's supposed to dry solid. Using regular wood is just not an option here; though cedar is more expensive but it's also several days of work removing old wood and assembling new beds every 2 years, too much hassle.
Just put a block in each corner FREE.. check it once a year or every two years and replace as necessary, no need for metal or expense get some pallet blocks that are HT so no chemicals and they'll outlast the sides
We really appreciate your videos. Thanks guys!
Wouldn’t it be better, if possible, to put the corner bracket on the inside? On the principle you mentioned before of soil pushing out and therefore putting the short end over the long?
Not to mention it would turn “six points of contact” into a relevant claim… As it’s shown here there is one screw holding the corner bracket together, and it’s less than 1/2” from the edge of the board.
Thank you for this tip. I was just about to go buy materials to make a raised bed today. 👍
I am so blessed to see this video. 4 of our beds came apart this spring and split with the long screws we put in to fix them. I'm going out to get these for all 9 beds.
I suggest you get longer corner brackets than the 2.5" Did you notice that only 1 screw was on the right? All the other screws were in the left board.
I have the same issue with my raised bed. Nice long 4" bracket will make it solid !!!
What about bowing down the middle of the boards?
What is stopping the freezing soil from expanding UP. You don’t have a lid on that bed. Mine rotted because of water, period. Corners were fine.
Hey Luke. I'm in the planning stages of building raised beds. I think I've found a stronger corner brace for less than the blister pack Stanley braces you've shown here. They are Simpson Strong-Tie 3-1/4 Gusset Angle and they are 18 gauge galvanized instead of the thin metal of the Stanley ones. I just did a price check and they run 98c/ea at HD (with a bulk price of 83c/ea if you buy 100 or more, which would do 25 beds). HD SKU#335216/Simpson model GA2.
Here's the link. www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-3-1-4-in-18-Gauge-Gusset-Angle-GA2/100375243
Hi Luke, curious to know what you think about using pressure treated lumber for raised beds? I was reassured that the way they treat lumber now is safe for growing
Great channel Luke, really appreciate your knowledge and style 👍
I add pieces of 4x4 po st to each corner and screw the sides to the post not to each other. This leaves room for expansion but not movement. I also use timberlock screws. Expensive but reusable forever .
Six points of attachment, but five of those screws where in one board and the sixth screw was holding the other board by a half of an inch at the very end of the board.... just a thought.
Line them with plastic or old compost bags and use pressure treated wood.
Wonderful video! Very interesting informations! 😉😊😎
Those brackets are a bit short. If you have a lot of beds, buy a sheet of 0.3mm or 0.5mm galvanized sheet metal & cut your own brackets.
If you want to bend the bracket, mark & drill all the holes first before bending the bracket
Drill pilot holes in the wood fist before screwing the screws in to pprevent your wood from splitting,
If the diameter of your screw is 5mm you will want to drill a 3mm hole.
I don't know how well linseed oil freezes but try coating your frame with linseed oil to extend its life
I used old license plates and cut them lengthwise in 4 equal parts for the 4 side corners.
I use 4x4s in the corners. I agree screwing into the end of the board is a bad way to attach wood. I would also use longer screws in the corner bracket. The top bracket really does nothing.
6:25 This side bracket is useless. You have 5 screws all going into the same plank of wood, then you have one little screw going into the other plank. So the only additional strength being given is from a little solitary screw which would be negotiable. The bracket needs to be longer to offer any benefit.
what if , before winter, we shovel a 8 inchs trench around the inside perimeter of the bed and push the dirt inside the bed, with no soil in contact with the wood, no expansion will occur ? The only expansion will occur from the outside in , which will not pop the corner.
interesting idea. i am about to build some of my first ever raised beds for fall and spring. some people have said to use vertical 2x4 or 4x4 in corners and attach all side boards to avoid a butt joint. but i am wondering if this metal would be a batter choice than more wood. I may try this. good tip
Thanks for the tip. Do you not get worried about termite problems without using treated wood? I use treated wood but if it's not necessary it would be nice to do my new beds in regular lumber. But I know termites can be a problem in homes in my area so I figured it would be the same with the garden beds too. Maybe termites aren't an issue in your area? What are your thoughts?
2x2 screwed in the corners=free pretty much
What if you scoop the dirt away from the edges and corners?
Wouldn’t that help?
So very much! That was simple enough.
What about the wood deteriorating ? How do you prevent that?
I'll try to get one up tomorrow. Or I'll upload a video to my channel and post a link here.
Great tip Luke, thanks
One thing you are not factoring for with your disproportionate statement regarding more expensive materials like Cedar is time spent. Someone might earn more in their paid profession considering hours spent for construction vs the the savings they might make using inferior species. Sorry I know slightly off topic but worth considering.
Line inside of beds with waterproof membrane (used for shower pans), this will s l o w the decomposition of the wood.
hey new subscriber here from ontario canada. i know you're not far from us, just wondering how does youur production hold up during the winter months I know you get very similar weather to us...average winter temps are anywhere from 0 to - 20C not sure about F conversions sorry. Most videos i find for winter harvests do not share remotely close weather as we do. Hope you can help. Love the in depth simplified explanations, great work. Thanks
I put a video up where I use poly liner. It's in a concrete bed (you can get loads of blocks for free), but the poly could also be used on wooden beds. The poly keeps the roots out of my garden. "Modified wicking beds", 2 videos on my channel. Hope it helps!
Thank you.
If this helps at least you still have the brackets to reuse when do you replace the wood.Then since you're saving on the brackets, you could invest in longer screws. I suspect you will be able to get them off without using a screw driver.
Thank you for the tips! I am planning several new raised beds this spring so this is timely. I am curious how big your raised beds are?
Great video! I will have to try that with the new beds I plan on putting in. What kind of mulch do you use around your beds?
What about the cement pieces with slots for boards to go through? They're about the same or even a bit less money, but seem like a lot less work.
I got 4 per bed and a piece of rebar ($14/bed). Slid the 2X6's into them and had my beds done in under 2 hours. Now when a board goes bad, I can take it out and slide in a new one. I highly recommend using these.
just had an idea to line the inside of the raised beds I will be building soon with free used large tiles from craigslist if i can find them. it would protect the dirt to allow me to potentially even use pressure treated wood or if I use cedar make it last even longer. any thoughts on this? Thanks!
Good job Luke. Thx!
You just answered my next question. Thank you :-) LOL
Several comments mention screws pulling out. I use deck/joist strapping with 2 1/2 - 3" decking screws to screw down from the top and 1" on the sides. Little more pricey but they pay for themselves and can be reused when I have to replace boards. Also use 2 foot rebar inside and outside the boards every 5-6 feet to prevent bowing which can also stress the corner joints.
www.lowes.com/pd/USP-Triple-Zinc-Double-90-Degree-Angle/1000184011
www.lowes.com/pd/USP-2-in-x-2-in-x-4-in-Triple-Zinc-Angle/50325313
Very helpful - thanks!
The very thick pine I used for raised bed only lasted 2 seasons. 2. Not 8-10. It rotted easily. It did not come apart at the corners at all.
So true! We don't have rot happening from about November to March in Wisconsin. Too cold, it's like the wood is in a freezer.
Wayne & Jessica Thompson environment is everything. Here in west Texas untreated beds can last many seasons. We have very dry air and easy winters (only about two weeks of the winter will it freeze in the day).
I'm in Canada. Very cold here. Very short growing season. This year is a bad one. Almanac says Winter will start in October this year instead of November or December like usual. :'( ... Texas is very hot and dry so I'm sure their beds last much longer. However, since mine don't, I'm considering going the cedar route. Or sticking to no raised beds. That way I don't have to water them as well.
My untreated raised beds are going on 6 years (Eastern Canada). What I did though is built them up to a height of 36" with about 20" air gap underneath. ( basically a table with sides). The extra airflow helps keep the wood nice and dry all year round.
Thank you for the suggestions! I like those ideas. :D
We added washers to our deck screws for ours
Seriously Clark?
Good to know!
I just put cut tomatoe slices and other seeds in top soil will it grow or does it have to be potting mix?
Good tips!
Hey Luke can you suggest how we can treat our pine wood to safely to prevent rot. I heard there are eco safe paints plus milk paints raw linseed oil. But nothing concreate
Seems like a 2X4 in each corner would work just as well at a fraction of the cost.
4x4 would be better
Based on your expertise what would you recommend I grow in 200 square feet for MAXIMUM YIELDS? I am trying to become a vegan and I need help. I am looking for as much weight in vegetables/fruits as possible! (Preferably vegetables)
About three here in Texas
Hey luke, got any tips for growing on the south coast of NSW Australia? And what can i grow here, it just turned spring so yeh, i dont know what to grow here
Where do I purchase THESE particular brackets? Are you saying in the description that you make/resell them and to send snail mail to that address?? But those are Stanley brand.. Thanks for the great idea.
Why don't you just move the soil from the sides, like a couple of inches???????
I was just thinking the same thing. If the issue is the soil expanding and pressing against the side in the winter, just rake the soil away from the sides and corners before winter hits.That's a FREE fix. =)
Yes, but remember that gravity, and water, will cause that space to fill once more - nature seems to hate empty spaces, and fills them with something
For sure, but if you are doing that just before frost the earth should freeze in place and not move. That's what I do and it's been working for years.
joan barber i
id rather spend 15 bucks and never have to do that in 8 years
Can we not use treated lumber yet? Arsenic has not been in treated lumber sense 2003..
what kind of untreated wood do you recommend. I am getting ready to build raised beds and was going to use cedar but If i can save money that would be great...
We don't get snow in South Africa. Will my beds be alright?
I don't think I'll have thisproblem in southern Louisiana . We have two seasons , Comfortable and Summer .
i build mine and had some separation trouble, even with brackets. 24" high beds in my case. (6:07) 5 screws in one side and 1 in the other? I might get longer screws, or longer brackets.
are the beds staked into place or are they just 'placed' in place?