Hey Jafro, just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to record and upload this process. It made clutch replacement so much easier. Your videos helped keep a DSM on the road and not in a scrap yard.
Jafro, Got my trans and clutch yanked today with major help to your vid. Thanks for going so in depth and being available for questions regarding things! After two afternoons (today ran from 11am to just about 6pm) i got the sucker out and got the clutch out of the car. HUGE props to your awesome video journalism skills! and thanks for all the tech help you've given the DSM community! Ben
I'm particularly impressed by the time & effort in post-production to make these videos easier to follow. There's a few things I'd like to change, like having graphic overlays of a diagram of the car, to clarify where the camera is pointing & to repeat (in text) the name of a part that's mentioned. Unfortunately all of that would be expensive, and I'm guessing that you're not paid a lot to do these videos (which is a shame, because they're a huge help to folks like me). Thanks for making them.
So crazy to not need to use the torch on every bolt. Also almost no rust. I need to move to where you are, being a mechanic in the north which salt and winter sucks. About the video very good job, Informative and helpful to those who have no idea what to do.
Great, Professionally Done, The Use of Time-laps and Additional Graphics Makes This The Best I Have Seen From Home Shops. The Video is as Professional as The Work on The Car Have You Considered a Carrier in Film Making. You Should ! Thank You JED
Watched this to start working on my 98 GSX trans, thought I had a throwout bearing clutch / fork issue, ends up the center section on my 6puck disc snapped the rivets and came lose, hence me not changing gears. Thanks for the vids and following to come, been a ton of help.
@Jafromobile Yeah I found that out after about 7 minutes of posting. I'm ready to drop the trans now. I always refer back to your videos for doing something. Thanks for making them and keep it up man!
Hey Jafro first of all much thanks for all your help I am currently doing a clutch job and your vids have been awesome! I am having trouble getting off the passenger axle I wedge and wedge and nothing you make it look so easy...lol. So any suggestions or tricks this thing seems to be stuck!
Yea I believe they're also called hammer drills, or rotary hammer. I was just using one to bust out cement underneath my shower tile and realized it may work really well to put in the center of the axle and just keep hammering it until it busts loose. Maybe to much power, but I dont know.
@Jafromobile Thanks for the reply because i just spend alot of money for a shop to fix my transmission and second shifts fine but kind of clanky and I want it to shift better but not mess anything up. OH what forums do you use because i would like to join whatever site you use.
@Jafromobile Thanks for the reply because i just spend alot of money for a shop to fix my transmission and second shifts fine but kind of clanky and I want it to shift better but not mess anything up.
Wow thanks for the quick reply! I will keep trying it's just reassuring I wasn't doing anything wrong like missing a bolt to take off lol...once again thank you!
Kind of a weird question Jafro, but could you use a roto hammer on the seized axle. Just get a pointed tip that can be used for chipping out concrete, and put that in the end of the axle. Thoughts?
I've been searching for a guide to take the sst out, have not found one yet! Super hard to find, but I was wondering wether it's smarter to pull the full motor out, or go in through the bottom to the trans
If you drop the drivetrain out through the bottom, you have to disconnect the AC, power steering, fuel, coolant, exhaust, intake, upper strut mounts, timing side mount, transmission mount, and wiring. Again, I don't know if an EVO uses a wiring harness bulkhead connector or if it's all hardwired like a DSM, but several wires like the alternator, starter and ground straps would also need to be removed. If you drop the drivetrain out the bottom, you will need a lift to raise the car up off of it. You can pull a Honda down like this in about 2 hours, but doing it fast without breaking stuff takes practice. Remember that you've got an in and out for coolant, oil, fuel, air, and electricity. Take all the in and outs loose and be methodical. By the way, I googled "EVO X Service Manual" and my top hit gave me free PDF's of the entire thing.
At 4:20 its not OCD its called being smart! I just did my clutch for the first time on my 98 civic and put the bolts back in whenever I could. Made everything much more organized. Less guessing, more working
How universal would you say the actual removal of the trans is? I need to swap out the one from my 87 S10 Blazer, and am trying to get a basic idea of what I need to do, since I have very little familiarity with transmissions and suspension and such
How did you get your transmission so clean? Mine has what looks like oil spots embedded in it. I have tried simple green, engine cleaner and pressure washing. so far nothing works for me. Yours look new.
Witness my OCD. lol Dang squirrels! It's good to have a sense of humor when doing this stuff. I find it helps keep my anger in check when things aren't going well (stress kills) and I don't get "burned out" as easy from doing this kind of work. Nice vid. Thanks!
Looking in to putting a new transmission in my 05 scion tc, removing an engine looks pretty damn intense. Think Ima go for it though. Thanks for the vid man
Really it's easy. You've got an in and an out for air, coolant, fuel, electricity (wiring harness + grounds), and just un-bolt the AC and PS pump so you don't have to drain them. Pull the throttle and transmission linkage, pull the motor mount bolts and yank it out of there. If it's auto, you'll have some ATF lines to deal with, but they're easy enough. I pulled the engine out of my Dodge Colt back in the day in an hour and 20 minutes including my clean-up. It's not that bad. If you have access to a 2 post lift, you could shave even more time off by pulling all that stuff and lifting the body off it leaving the engine and front wheels/subframe on the ground. Easy access to take everything else loose that way, but it only _looks_ intimidating. ZipLock write-on bags, masking tape, and Sharpies are your friends.
@Jafromobile If you have a chance, could you get me a list of the bolts that hold the trans to the engine? When I bought my GSX, it didn't come with a trans and almost all of the bolts were thrown in a bucket. Thanks, Cj.
Is there any difference in a 1g transmission install and a 2g? I am having a heck of a time... I bought it from an individual and the transmission was already out. Mine is all wheel drive and the transmission case seems to be hitting on the rear crossmember and the input shaft of the transmission on the clutch. I have no mounts out except the one on top of the transmission. Any ideas?
Hi Jeff, I'm curious if you'd like to perform a video on how to properly rebuild a 2g w4a33 A/T? If So I'd be willing to send mine to you, name a price.
Hey jafro, im stuck on the lca's riht now. Got them unbolted but for the life of me I cannot get them separated from the knuckle/hub. Any ideas? Ive tridd pry bars and even a ball joint separator ( as im replacing the lcas and ucas on this job as well)
Yea I've worked on many types. Japanese, Korean, American, German, Italian, and British, and street on off road motorcycles, quads, and 3 wheelers. My preference are German cars because I think they are the best engineered. Have owned numerous European cars but my favorite is BMW (which I've owned 9) and Mercedes (my 5th one so far).
my Dad is trying to figure out how to disconnect the hydraulic line from a standard transmission on a 1999 ford ranger xlt. He is having a heck of a time getting the line off. Oh and he said he wishes he could move as fast as you do in your video :) lol I said your a super manchanic :)
I SO WISH you would do a 2g AUTOMATIC - FWD - rebuild. I have two. The one in the car now acts up some times but NOT all the time. I would love to JAFRO rebuild my trans just like you walked me through the MOTOR REBUILD.
curious when dissembling the fwd manual transmission... theres this "dished washer" that came out of mines. where in the hell does that washer go to? nothing on the forums indicate the location of this piece. Any clue jafro? its not in first gear box.
+Ryan Clark Honestly I haven't built a mitsubishi transmission myself yet. My transmission experience is with automatic chevys. I've been meaning to tackle one of these things, and recently got my hands on a spare. I just haven't had time or space to crack into it. *Anyone else who knows is free to chime in...*
Hey jafro, I have a question. I just did a trans swap and put brand new clutch pressure plate and flywheel in my 2g gst. Everything was put in fine. For some reason when I take off in first gear when it's initially starting it gives a little shake. Do you believe it's bad motor mounts? Or possible alignment? I tried changing the ball joints and still does it. If you can help that would be awesome!
hi jafro, sorry for bothering you,i got this clip of my eagle taoln 97 fwd not turbo. if you can see it for 5 minutes and let me know what you think,im having problem whit it. thank you
Hey jafro. I have a 96 gsx automatic, having a trans problem, when the car is in 1st 2nd or drive it will take off, second you give it some gas it slips almost like a clutch us severely slipping, any ideas?
Oh, I thought I was answering you in a different video, and I now understand the context in which you asked. Yes, I had torque wrenches then as well. I just didn't need them to remove the transmission. I only use them during installations. This was all deconstruction.
***** I am struggling to remove mine, but it is a ford escort 97... it should be piece of cake, but I don`t have the tools for it... but still, I am doing the job quite well, I must say.. It is out of the car already, and now I am looking for leakages. The stupid reason for removing it was due to leakage behind the flywheel ( must apology but it is missing on some specific terms to express myself properly, since my first language is portuguese and not english )..... then I realized it would be easier for me to remove the engine together with the gearbox ( the head was already out ) .. I know it sounds weird.. but it is not... if you ( again ) consider I don`t have the right tools... all in all, I am about to accomplish my goals... man, I would give my eye for the tools you have... I love tools, either mechanical or electrical...
AWESOME, I am going to add your build to my thanksgiving day blessing at the dinner table. right up there with good health and loving family...BAM Jafro vid...
I'm looking at a 97 GSX all original w/ 116k miles. I'm not sure if I should get it though. How easy and cheap are the parts on it? Is crank walk a huge issue? I've worked on a ton of SRT-4's before and those were a bit of a pain. (Why I have V8's now). Just curious if I should get back into the sports compact game, especially with the new GT's running mid 12's, lol.
It won't run 12's stock, but it won't take much to get it there. AWD and styling is what sold most people on the second gens. Some parts are starting to become rare (like transmission parts), but actual cases of crankwalk are extremely rare. The majority of the crankwalk cases are caused by improperly performed maintenance, or improperly adjusted clutches. In other words it's owner/mechanic-caused damage from misaligning the engine and transmission, or from pre-loading the clutch. You'll find lots of information on this channel about that. But as with any 20 year old car, if you buy it, you're on the hook to maintain it and ensure things are done properly. It's a classic and in 5 years it's going to be an antique. Anyone can go out and buy a new GT and run 12's. Some people like to be just like everyone else. ;P It's a tough call. You'd need to add a lot of technology if you expect it to do the things a new GT does, but that GT will never be AWD. It's definitely nothing like an SRT-4. Ultimately I can't make the decision for you, but it boils down to the kind of enthusiast you are? What challenges you're willing to accept?
I'm going to a auction. Tomorrow where there is a 95 tsi only 120 thousand miles been sitting for 15 years in a garage because clutch went.out . Is this a pricey fix I'm not really mechanically inclined
I know I am about 10 years too late here, but how close is that to a Mitsubishi evo sst trans? Cause I can't find a video on one and this is the best trans removal video I've ever seen
The SST is a strange beast. I doubt it has much in common with a W5M33, but the installation and removal procedures shouldn't be all that different with the exception of wiring and a TCU. I would recommend doing the job with your car's factory service manual at hand, and use this video for inspiration more than instruction. It would cover the differences that this old car doesn't have on it.
Jafromobile ya I have a brand new upgraded sst for my car thinking I could pull and replace but I didn't know what I got myself into lol. But you think following these Instructions roughly on this car would get me a head start?
I think the torque specs and bolt locations would be different. The chassis is very different, so the disassembly process might be more involved. On many modern cars produced in the following decade from this one, it's easier to remove and install driveline parts by dropping the subframe with all the pieces still attached. I haven't blown an EVO apart yet, so I don't know how to recommend using this series as anything other than a baseline. I would rather see you follow the procedure in the FSM. Check eBay for it. You can find printed and digital service manuals for damn near everything there.
Hello Jafro! I have dropped my transmission in my 98 Spyder before just wanted to ask if I left it supported by a jackstand and piece of wood for a week it should be OK correct? Last time we took it out, checked what we needed to, installed again same day. Also If you have an email I would very much appreciate your opinion on a trans issue I've been having lately. 98 Spyder manual swap and awd swapped. Thanks much sir hope to hear back soon!
I don't give my email out because people will use me as a resource to be their free DSM tech support, and there's nothing on the planet that can motivate me to want to do that. I don't wrench on other people's cars, and I don't have the time to support 846,000 20+ year old cars. That's the job of the people who own them. I'm flattered by those who value my opinion, but in order to keep production rolling on a channel that pays me less than 60 cents for every hour I work on it or support it, I have to stick to only teaching through my own examples. For the engine support question, if you put the crossmember back in the car, you can put a block of wood between the crossmember and the flywheel to support the engine. If you brace it that way, you can even roll the car around and the transmission stays supported. It's better than using a jackstand for long-term storage, but the jackstand would work just fine as well as long as you don't need to move the car.
Yea once I did a front engine mount on an Audi. You'd think it would be easy or a simple task for one mount. But you have to remove the whole front bumper to get enough clearance to remove the bolts. L☺L
hi I have a 2000 lanos 1.5 engine I have to replace the clutch is it possible to remove the engine and leave the gearbox in place I don't know much about fwd cars it might need other engine work the thought of pulling out the halfshafts etc is something ive never done theres also limited information about theses cars any help appreciated
+John Alicajic Really, it's easier to leave the engine in the car and just remove the transmission. I'm not familiar with a Lanos, but if it's FWD, there's a lot less stuff connected to the transmission than the engine. It takes me 5 minutes to pull an axle with or without a lift. I've had a lot of practice, though. Short of wrangling the transmission out of the engine bay, the axles are the hardest part and I consider it a piece of cake.
You can un-bolt the other end of the LCA, the trailing arm, the tie rod and strut bolts and remove it all as an assembly if there's no other way to get it free. I've never had a lower control arm that wouldn't give, but I have had an axle seize in the hub so bad that 4 mechanics including myself gave up on it before one separated the CV joint so we could save the knuckle and replace the hub bearing, axle, and replace the ABS sensor we destroyed with a blowtorch. In light of the seized hub and axle, the LCA separation is one of the lesser of DSM evils. The axles are installed un-greased by the manufacturer and tend to seize in place.
turkey baster works good for sucking out excess fluid.wow u had a whole lot more things to remove than I did on my 03 elantra.Good job u work really fast! LOL
99 GSX, 135,000 miles - Clutch started slipping bad so trying diy. Followed the great video but got stuck. I'm having a very hard time getting the passenger axle out, can't seem to find a good point to pry out like you did. Also those top 2 bolts on transfer case will not break free. I'm pretty sure this is the first time these parts will be touched since the car left the factory. All I need to do is change the clutch. What steps can I skip to just get to the clutch? Can I leave the axles in and the transfer case on? How much clearance between the block and transmission do I need to remove the clutch? Your videos are a great resource not only for 4G63Ts but for cars in general. Thank you for the knowledge.
On the axle, what you're prying with makes a difference. Something with an angled tip about a half-inch to 3/4" wide works best because you can twist the shank at the angled side of the axle cup against the transmission, using the width of the tip as a prying force to apply pressure as it twists. Too long of a pry bar can be a problem. All there is holding it in is just a little rounded wire clip that has to clear a groove. That's all it is. Rotate the axle to a different spot if you have to, the clip has an open end, but it should pop out easily if you can just get the right leverage behind it. A screwdriver won't do the job. If you've done all that and it doesn't work... get someone to tap the side of the axle cup with a dead blow hammer while you're prying against it on the other side to try to shock the clip out of the groove. That's cheating. It's your game, you write the rules. You can cheat if you want to, but you'll learn less. There's just a feel to it. Once you make one submit, you'll never lose that feed, but I wrote is the right way to do it. Those are big honkin' bolts on the transfer case. If you don't take them out, you're guaranteed to leak gear oil all over the place. If you take them out, at least there's a 50/50 chance you won't. I'd use penetrating oil, put a solid, sturdy wrench on that bolt that fits squarely, and smack that wrench counter-clockwise with a 4-lb mini sledge. Next, I'll be here to tell you to start a small gap between the transmission and transfer case on the rear of the bottom with the pry bar (the one that could separate that passenger side axle), and lightly-tap the tailshaft with the 4-lb sledge until a gap opens up at the front that you can fit a huge screwdriver into. Pry with both the pry bar and screw-driver evenly towards the passenger side far enough to get your fingertips in and yank the transfer case off the rest of the transmission's output shaft. Don't mar up the aluminum sealing surfaces doing it. If you can't do these things as described, it's likely one of the tools you're using is the wrong size and shape. I've had plenty of driver's side axles put up a fight. I've met the transfer case I couldn't remove because I had the wrong tool for the job, and I even had a 3 foot pry bar with me. I could not remove this transfer case from a Galant that tried to kill me on a test drive when the throttle stuck at 4500 RPMs. Then someone tried to rob us in Asheville, NC. Seriously, I've had the worst transfer case fiasco anyone could ever ask for. But just don't give up. You're on your own property with it. Take your time and do it right. Get a different tool if you have to, just don't give up. If I were to add opinion of any kind, I'd suspect the pry bar you have is the wrong one for the job, just based off of which parts are giving you trouble.
Picked up a pry bar set; 8", 12", 18", 24" with tip sizes from 1/2" - 3/4", haven't tried the twist yet. Hopefully that should take care of that. As for the transfer case, I was able to get the bottom 3 bolts off with socket and wrench and a little pipe for added torque. But those top two won't budge. Tried a u-joint adapter but no go. Will penetrating oil get all the way to the threads by just spraying the head?
Creamy Italian Not really, but every little bit helps. The penetrating oil you use matters, too. PB Blaster is great for breaking steel parts loose because steel is very porous. I like Aero-Kroil for the really stuck stuff. It penetrates deeper. The hammer recommendation comes from the idea of shocking the bolt. Put all the pressure on it that you can, and give it a whack. Often times the shock of the impact puts a little extra d*** on the bolt, just enough needed to shock it into turning.
Thanks for the info. Finally got the t-case off and drivers axle out but that passenger axle does not what to come out. I'm leaving it in unless I shouldn't do that. On to the mounts, crossmember, starter and removal tomorrow.
+Creamy Italian don't pry at the edge of the axle with the tip of the pry bar. You can't get the range and force you need that way. Put the tip past the axle seal on the forward side of the axle cup, and apply pressure using the shank. It's a quick jerking motion with a little twist that typically works for me. A gradual pull rarely does the trick. If you leave the axle in, it's an awful lot more disassembly and wrangling, not to mention greater potential for damaging the axle. No denial they can be a pain sometimes to remove, but I've never met one that will absolutely not separate. On the other side of that axle seal, you have the equivalence of 40W oil and it is clean and free of rust. There's nothing there but that one damn clip. A clip that can easily lose the fight if you can come at it right. Look at how far you've come along. Remember what I said about pissing excellence. Take a break, and come back to it.
***** I need to replace my drivers side cv shaft but they gave me a normal size shaft im so confused on how to get the old cv shaft out of the race thats on the back of the engine block.... any help from any one would be greatly aappreciated..
MakeItTwisted AWD or FWD? AWD cars have a carrier bearing bolted to the block, and removing that axle is impossible without removing that carrier bearing first. Some people use a bearing press to separate that carrier bearing, but I've been lucky and literally had them just fall apart in my hands.
It's a completely different driveline, and many of the fasteners will be different, but the process is pretty much the same. It's still a transverse-mounted AWD (if it's a VR-4) sports coupe. As with all cars, don't do anything without a service manual so you can answer all your questions as they arise.
I think I'm just getting included because they're both DSM-era Mitsubishis. In other words, it's related like cousins. The title doesn't even have "Eclipse GSX" in it. It could just be that nobody with a 3000GT has bothered to make the kinds of videos that I do yet, and an algorithm put my videos in your search. My channel has always made me out to be a Mitsubishi doood because it's the AWD 4g63 platform that I love so much and use in everything here. Search ebay for the service manual, it will give you all of your torque specs for every bolt, the locations and details of every electrical connector and the steps necessary to remove these components. I like the actual printed ones because I don't like handling my computers with mechanic hands... but the PDF versions will work just fine. Either way, they're only a couple of bucks and a must-have if you love your car. The tools, techniques, components and tricks to stay organized for what you're trying to accomplish-are in my videos even if it's a different car. Mitsubishi did a whole lot of the same things on this era of automobile even if they have a different number of cylinders.
Who are you, Scotty Kilmer? :P I just spent all day working on my GSX to get so little done, hahaha. I do love the car though, hate the previous idiot mechanics.
the last comment... I hope your memory is like mine, because you will need to use it in order to remember where each bolt goes to... okay.. you use the technique of keeping them in their holes or together with the parts they came from, but still, some of them get lost.. and that it when the short-term memory comes in action.
Don't is a pointed what ever and hammer if its seized. I put me naugahyde ( wrapped leather) hammer over the end of the shaft and hit the naugahyde with my B.F.H. Big fucking hammer. the wrapped leather hammer stops any Mal formation of the shaft and removes the issue of a misplaced strike on a punch. I have several leather hammers but you could use the hard plastic hammer and strike it with the steel hammer. comes out everytime in 30 yrs. one or two strikes. the punch sometimes will NOT work if you have a really rusty seized set up. plus by using the two hammer system you get more p.s.I. on the shaft with kit the remotest possibility of hurting the shaft or any brake guff
Hey Jafro, just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to record and upload this process. It made clutch replacement so much easier. Your videos helped keep a DSM on the road and not in a scrap yard.
I can't get the traxns separated from the enginb\
Jafro,
Got my trans and clutch yanked today with major help to your vid. Thanks for going so in depth and being available for questions regarding things! After two afternoons (today ran from 11am to just about 6pm) i got the sucker out and got the clutch out of the car. HUGE props to your awesome video journalism skills! and thanks for all the tech help you've given the DSM community!
Ben
You're a godsend dude. Seriously, so much help on so many different things. Can not thank you enough.
Still a great walk through 9 years later! Awesome videos man
I'm particularly impressed by the time & effort in post-production to make these videos easier to follow. There's a few things I'd like to change, like having graphic overlays of a diagram of the car, to clarify where the camera is pointing & to repeat (in text) the name of a part that's mentioned. Unfortunately all of that would be expensive, and I'm guessing that you're not paid a lot to do these videos (which is a shame, because they're a huge help to folks like me). Thanks for making them.
Bro..
Ur videos r awesome. I have a 2g and reference them a lot. Keep up the good work and long live DSMs
So crazy to not need to use the torch on every bolt. Also almost no rust. I need to move to where you are, being a mechanic in the north which salt and winter sucks. About the video very good job, Informative and helpful to those who have no idea what to do.
Great, Professionally Done, The Use of Time-laps and Additional Graphics Makes This The Best I Have Seen From Home Shops. The Video is as Professional as The Work on The Car Have You Considered a Carrier in Film Making. You Should ! Thank You JED
Watched this to start working on my 98 GSX trans, thought I had a throwout bearing clutch / fork issue, ends up the center section on my 6puck disc snapped the rivets and came lose, hence me not changing gears. Thanks for the vids and following to come, been a ton of help.
it took me a month but i finally did it. my 95 AWD talon is ready for cruising the beach. thanks jafro!
Thanks for making this video. I'm in the process of replacing the identical transmission with a new TRE one.
4:58 - sounded like an aircraft landed and throttled down outside your garage, the pilot needed a quick engine maintenance after a compressor stall.
If I only had a dollar for every time that happened... ;)
***** it reminds me of myself when I was a child and used to disassemble everything I came across !!! I was quite curious...
your videos have cured my cancer!!
@Jafromobile Yeah I found that out after about 7 minutes of posting. I'm ready to drop the trans now. I always refer back to your videos for doing something. Thanks for making them and keep it up man!
Hey Jafro first of all much thanks for all your help I am currently doing a clutch job and your vids have been awesome! I am having trouble getting off the passenger axle I wedge and wedge and nothing you make it look so easy...lol. So any suggestions or tricks this thing seems to be stuck!
Yea I believe they're also called hammer drills, or rotary hammer. I was just using one to bust out cement underneath my shower tile and realized it may work really well to put in the center of the axle and just keep hammering it until it busts loose. Maybe to much power, but I dont know.
Thanks a ton! I love your videos. Knowledge is power and this is where its at. Keep it up!
Dude, your channel kicks tail!!
@Jafromobile Thanks for the reply because i just spend alot of money for a shop to fix my transmission and second shifts fine but kind of clanky and I want it to shift better but not mess anything up. OH what forums do you use because i would like to join whatever site you use.
@Jafromobile Thanks for the reply because i just spend alot of money for a shop to fix my transmission and second shifts fine but kind of clanky and I want it to shift better but not mess anything up.
Wow thanks for the quick reply! I will keep trying it's just reassuring I wasn't doing anything wrong like missing a bolt to take off lol...once again thank you!
very good video. Nice picture, nice sound, nice explanations. Best I saw on this matter.
Keep up the good work jafro. Your videos are adicting to watch.
Kind of a weird question Jafro, but could you use a roto hammer on the seized axle. Just get a pointed tip that can be used for chipping out concrete, and put that in the end of the axle. Thoughts?
I've been searching for a guide to take the sst out, have not found one yet! Super hard to find, but I was wondering wether it's smarter to pull the full motor out, or go in through the bottom to the trans
If you drop the drivetrain out through the bottom, you have to disconnect the AC, power steering, fuel, coolant, exhaust, intake, upper strut mounts, timing side mount, transmission mount, and wiring. Again, I don't know if an EVO uses a wiring harness bulkhead connector or if it's all hardwired like a DSM, but several wires like the alternator, starter and ground straps would also need to be removed. If you drop the drivetrain out the bottom, you will need a lift to raise the car up off of it. You can pull a Honda down like this in about 2 hours, but doing it fast without breaking stuff takes practice. Remember that you've got an in and out for coolant, oil, fuel, air, and electricity. Take all the in and outs loose and be methodical. By the way, I googled "EVO X Service Manual" and my top hit gave me free PDF's of the entire thing.
Hi, Thanks for doing all these videos, they're Great! Can you remove the clutch cylinder push rod part without bleeding? Sorry im a complete novice
What camera and program is this??? Very nice quality
At 4:20 its not OCD its called being smart! I just did my clutch for the first time on my 98 civic and put the bolts back in whenever I could. Made everything much more organized. Less guessing, more working
If it were OCD, I would have drawn a photo-realistic picture of the transmission. ;)
How universal would you say the actual removal of the trans is? I need to swap out the one from my 87 S10 Blazer, and am trying to get a basic idea of what I need to do, since I have very little familiarity with transmissions and suspension and such
How did you get your transmission so clean? Mine has what looks like oil spots embedded in it. I have tried simple green, engine cleaner and pressure washing. so far nothing works for me. Yours look new.
hey man, getting ready to tackle this on my own for the first time soon. :( Do you drain all of the fluids? or just the trans?
Hi man! im just want to say that you made a great and clean work down there. Nice!
Witness my OCD.
lol
Dang squirrels!
It's good to have a sense of humor when doing this stuff. I find it helps keep my anger in check when things aren't going well (stress kills) and I don't get "burned out" as easy from doing this kind of work.
Nice vid. Thanks!
Looking in to putting a new transmission in my 05 scion tc, removing an engine looks pretty damn intense. Think Ima go for it though.
Thanks for the vid man
Really it's easy. You've got an in and an out for air, coolant, fuel, electricity (wiring harness + grounds), and just un-bolt the AC and PS pump so you don't have to drain them. Pull the throttle and transmission linkage, pull the motor mount bolts and yank it out of there. If it's auto, you'll have some ATF lines to deal with, but they're easy enough. I pulled the engine out of my Dodge Colt back in the day in an hour and 20 minutes including my clean-up. It's not that bad. If you have access to a 2 post lift, you could shave even more time off by pulling all that stuff and lifting the body off it leaving the engine and front wheels/subframe on the ground. Easy access to take everything else loose that way, but it only _looks_ intimidating. ZipLock write-on bags, masking tape, and Sharpies are your friends.
@Jafromobile If you have a chance, could you get me a list of the bolts that hold the trans to the engine? When I bought my GSX, it didn't come with a trans and almost all of the bolts were thrown in a bucket. Thanks, Cj.
Is there any difference in a 1g transmission install and a 2g? I am having a heck of a time... I bought it from an individual and the transmission was already out. Mine is all wheel drive and the transmission case seems to be hitting on the rear crossmember and the input shaft of the transmission on the clutch. I have no mounts out except the one on top of the transmission. Any ideas?
oh thats great news :D i want to thank you for your videos , they have helped me a lot! :) thanks again for answering so quick :D happy holidays!
Hi Jeff,
I'm curious if you'd like to perform a video on how to properly rebuild a 2g w4a33 A/T? If So I'd be willing to send mine to you, name a price.
Best video ever help me install my new clutch saved me money
Hey jafro, im stuck on the lca's riht now. Got them unbolted but for the life of me I cannot get them separated from the knuckle/hub. Any ideas? Ive tridd pry bars and even a ball joint separator ( as im replacing the lcas and ucas on this job as well)
Dude were did learn all this! Do you how to fix a transmission leak! I need help
Yea I've worked on many types. Japanese, Korean, American, German, Italian, and British, and street on off road motorcycles, quads, and 3 wheelers. My preference are German cars because I think they are the best engineered. Have owned numerous European cars but my favorite is BMW (which I've owned 9) and Mercedes (my 5th one so far).
@Jafromobile hey would you happen to know where i can purchase the Shift linkages or cables shown in 4:25
nice video! can i use this same procedure in my 95 gst?
Hi Jafro, what kinda oil would you use an Evo IV transfer case? I cant find the OEM diaqueen one in the UK
what kind of car is it?
One more... how did you get the driveshafts out so quickly?
Great vid,.... now I know why I still drive a front engine rear wheel drive, this looks very intimidating
Does the transfer case need to be drained also?
my Dad is trying to figure out how to disconnect the hydraulic line from a standard transmission on a 1999 ford ranger xlt. He is having a heck of a time getting the line off. Oh and he said he wishes he could move as fast as you do in your video :) lol I said your a super manchanic :)
I SO WISH you would do a 2g AUTOMATIC - FWD - rebuild. I have two. The one in the car now acts up some times but NOT all the time. I would love to JAFRO rebuild my trans just like you walked me through the MOTOR REBUILD.
curious when dissembling the fwd manual transmission... theres this "dished washer" that came out of mines. where in the hell does that washer go to? nothing on the forums indicate the location of this piece. Any clue jafro? its not in first gear box.
+Ryan Clark Honestly I haven't built a mitsubishi transmission myself yet. My transmission experience is with automatic chevys. I've been meaning to tackle one of these things, and recently got my hands on a spare. I just haven't had time or space to crack into it. *Anyone else who knows is free to chime in...*
***** awesome hope in the near future you have the time to cover the trans and its components. Do appreciate the feedback. Thank you sir
is your charcoal can removed because i can not get to my back trans mount that easy
Would this apply to a 91 Galant VR4 as well? Thank you.
Hey jafro, I have a question. I just did a trans swap and put brand new clutch pressure plate and flywheel in my 2g gst. Everything was put in fine. For some reason when I take off in first gear when it's initially starting it gives a little shake. Do you believe it's bad motor mounts? Or possible alignment? I tried changing the ball joints and still does it. If you can help that would be awesome!
Isn't that kinda bad to jack up on your rotor, especially since they're drilled and slotted?
hi jafro, sorry for bothering you,i got this clip of my eagle taoln 97 fwd not turbo. if you can see it for 5 minutes and let me know what you think,im having problem whit it.
thank you
Hey jafro. I have a 96 gsx automatic, having a trans problem, when the car is in 1st 2nd or drive it will take off, second you give it some gas it slips almost like a clutch us severely slipping, any ideas?
Sorry for newb question but is the cv axles on manual 4g63 same as the automatic 4g63/420a's?
Where you find the air intake?
looks like it is very tight down there..
hey, you ve got a lot of tools... do you have a torque wrench ? it is essential ..
Bruno Ferreira Within the next couple of days, I will be showing 2 of the mothers of all torque wrenches. ;)
Oh, I thought I was answering you in a different video, and I now understand the context in which you asked. Yes, I had torque wrenches then as well. I just didn't need them to remove the transmission. I only use them during installations. This was all deconstruction.
***** I am struggling to remove mine, but it is a ford escort 97... it should be piece of cake, but I don`t have the tools for it... but still, I am doing the job quite well, I must say.. It is out of the car already, and now I am looking for leakages. The stupid reason for removing it was due to leakage behind the flywheel ( must apology but it is missing on some specific terms to express myself properly, since my first language is portuguese and not english )..... then I realized it would be easier for me to remove the engine together with the gearbox ( the head was already out ) .. I know it sounds weird.. but it is not... if you ( again ) consider I don`t have the right tools... all in all, I am about to accomplish my goals...
man, I would give my eye for the tools you have... I love tools, either mechanical or electrical...
Bruno Ferreira I will also replace the clutch , as I have everything off... although mine doesnt seem to be so wornout
AWESOME, I am going to add your build to my thanksgiving day blessing at the dinner table. right up there with good health and loving family...BAM Jafro vid...
How much are you pushing that you’ve gone through 4 transmissions?
Is the removal the same as in a fwd minus the awd component?
Yessir. The transmission codes are even only one letter different. It's all the same.
can this method work on a 2007 eclipse gt? i cant find a video anywhere for that car
What fluid should i use for my 1g transmission?
I'm looking at a 97 GSX all original w/ 116k miles. I'm not sure if I should get it though. How easy and cheap are the parts on it? Is crank walk a huge issue? I've worked on a ton of SRT-4's before and those were a bit of a pain. (Why I have V8's now). Just curious if I should get back into the sports compact game, especially with the new GT's running mid 12's, lol.
It won't run 12's stock, but it won't take much to get it there. AWD and styling is what sold most people on the second gens. Some parts are starting to become rare (like transmission parts), but actual cases of crankwalk are extremely rare. The majority of the crankwalk cases are caused by improperly performed maintenance, or improperly adjusted clutches. In other words it's owner/mechanic-caused damage from misaligning the engine and transmission, or from pre-loading the clutch. You'll find lots of information on this channel about that. But as with any 20 year old car, if you buy it, you're on the hook to maintain it and ensure things are done properly. It's a classic and in 5 years it's going to be an antique. Anyone can go out and buy a new GT and run 12's. Some people like to be just like everyone else. ;P It's a tough call. You'd need to add a lot of technology if you expect it to do the things a new GT does, but that GT will never be AWD. It's definitely nothing like an SRT-4. Ultimately I can't make the decision for you, but it boils down to the kind of enthusiast you are? What challenges you're willing to accept?
@Jafromobile Awesome man, thank you! I do have a 2ga AWD, so your videos are extremely helpful. Thanks again, Cj.
Lol this is funny to watch you do this... walking around
tap tap tap tap tap tap tap lol
Its sooo fun watching in fast motion
Subscribed. Looking forward to more videos.
vacume bleeder is much easier than a spoon and its only like 20 bucks at harbor freight and all you need is an air compressor
I'm going to a auction. Tomorrow where there is a 95 tsi only 120 thousand miles been sitting for 15 years in a garage because clutch went.out . Is this a pricey fix I'm not really mechanically inclined
Is this car All Wheel Drive or Front Wheel Drive?
I have a 2002 honda civic lx and wen in drive it drags and sumtimes goes in reverse while in drive wat should i do?
"couple blocks of wood." *throws some random 2x4s* "need doze"
subscribed after seeing that engine bay
Thanks man! You're just in time to see what's next get bolted together and the inside's just as pretty.
I know I am about 10 years too late here, but how close is that to a Mitsubishi evo sst trans? Cause I can't find a video on one and this is the best trans removal video I've ever seen
The SST is a strange beast. I doubt it has much in common with a W5M33, but the installation and removal procedures shouldn't be all that different with the exception of wiring and a TCU. I would recommend doing the job with your car's factory service manual at hand, and use this video for inspiration more than instruction. It would cover the differences that this old car doesn't have on it.
Jafromobile ya I have a brand new upgraded sst for my car thinking I could pull and replace but I didn't know what I got myself into lol. But you think following these Instructions roughly on this car would get me a head start?
I think the torque specs and bolt locations would be different. The chassis is very different, so the disassembly process might be more involved. On many modern cars produced in the following decade from this one, it's easier to remove and install driveline parts by dropping the subframe with all the pieces still attached. I haven't blown an EVO apart yet, so I don't know how to recommend using this series as anything other than a baseline. I would rather see you follow the procedure in the FSM. Check eBay for it. You can find printed and digital service manuals for damn near everything there.
Jafromobile whoops I answered above sorry
Hello Jafro! I have dropped my transmission in my 98 Spyder before just wanted to ask if I left it supported by a jackstand and piece of wood for a week it should be OK correct? Last time we took it out, checked what we needed to, installed again same day.
Also If you have an email I would very much appreciate your opinion on a trans issue I've been having lately. 98 Spyder manual swap and awd swapped. Thanks much sir hope to hear back soon!
Woops, support the motor with a stand and block of wood lol
I don't give my email out because people will use me as a resource to be their free DSM tech support, and there's nothing on the planet that can motivate me to want to do that. I don't wrench on other people's cars, and I don't have the time to support 846,000 20+ year old cars. That's the job of the people who own them. I'm flattered by those who value my opinion, but in order to keep production rolling on a channel that pays me less than 60 cents for every hour I work on it or support it, I have to stick to only teaching through my own examples.
For the engine support question, if you put the crossmember back in the car, you can put a block of wood between the crossmember and the flywheel to support the engine. If you brace it that way, you can even roll the car around and the transmission stays supported. It's better than using a jackstand for long-term storage, but the jackstand would work just fine as well as long as you don't need to move the car.
***** fantastic thanks for your replay and please keep making this videos huge help to us dsm people.
Yea once I did a front engine mount on an Audi. You'd think it would be easy or a simple task for one mount. But you have to remove the whole front bumper to get enough clearance to remove the bolts. L☺L
hi my 97 lincoln continental starts up i put it in drive and it goes but stop going after a few minutes.can anyone help
Would a 1 g trans fit in a 2 g
... though I wouldn't mind having an Alfa Romeo Q4 (AWD) which are rare in the US.
Fantastic channel...many thanks.
What kind of car is this and what year?........thanks
drumcrazd '95 Eclipse GSX.
where do u live Jafromobile i need ur help :) im n north carolina
hi I have a 2000 lanos 1.5 engine I have to replace the clutch is it possible to remove the engine and leave the gearbox in place I don't know much about fwd cars it might need other engine work the thought of pulling out the halfshafts etc is something ive never done theres also limited information about theses cars any help appreciated
+John Alicajic Really, it's easier to leave the engine in the car and just remove the transmission. I'm not familiar with a Lanos, but if it's FWD, there's a lot less stuff connected to the transmission than the engine. It takes me 5 minutes to pull an axle with or without a lift. I've had a lot of practice, though. Short of wrangling the transmission out of the engine bay, the axles are the hardest part and I consider it a piece of cake.
+Jafromobile hey i had a question i own a 98 gsx and i cannot remove my driver axle i see in ur vid u removed ur lower control arms is that a must?
You can un-bolt the other end of the LCA, the trailing arm, the tie rod and strut bolts and remove it all as an assembly if there's no other way to get it free. I've never had a lower control arm that wouldn't give, but I have had an axle seize in the hub so bad that 4 mechanics including myself gave up on it before one separated the CV joint so we could save the knuckle and replace the hub bearing, axle, and replace the ABS sensor we destroyed with a blowtorch. In light of the seized hub and axle, the LCA separation is one of the lesser of DSM evils. The axles are installed un-greased by the manufacturer and tend to seize in place.
@TheMorbital oh and this was the only video i saw. didnt see it all, so i assumed it was a FWD car. didnt know.
turkey baster works good for sucking out excess fluid.wow u had a whole lot more things to remove than I did on my 03 elantra.Good job u work really fast! LOL
99 GSX, 135,000 miles - Clutch started slipping bad so trying diy. Followed the great video but got stuck. I'm having a very hard time getting the passenger axle out, can't seem to find a good point to pry out like you did. Also those top 2 bolts on transfer case will not break free. I'm pretty sure this is the first time these parts will be touched since the car left the factory. All I need to do is change the clutch. What steps can I skip to just get to the clutch? Can I leave the axles in and the transfer case on? How much clearance between the block and transmission do I need to remove the clutch? Your videos are a great resource not only for 4G63Ts but for cars in general. Thank you for the knowledge.
On the axle, what you're prying with makes a difference. Something with an angled tip about a half-inch to 3/4" wide works best because you can twist the shank at the angled side of the axle cup against the transmission, using the width of the tip as a prying force to apply pressure as it twists. Too long of a pry bar can be a problem. All there is holding it in is just a little rounded wire clip that has to clear a groove. That's all it is. Rotate the axle to a different spot if you have to, the clip has an open end, but it should pop out easily if you can just get the right leverage behind it. A screwdriver won't do the job. If you've done all that and it doesn't work... get someone to tap the side of the axle cup with a dead blow hammer while you're prying against it on the other side to try to shock the clip out of the groove. That's cheating. It's your game, you write the rules. You can cheat if you want to, but you'll learn less. There's just a feel to it. Once you make one submit, you'll never lose that feed, but I wrote is the right way to do it.
Those are big honkin' bolts on the transfer case. If you don't take them out, you're guaranteed to leak gear oil all over the place. If you take them out, at least there's a 50/50 chance you won't. I'd use penetrating oil, put a solid, sturdy wrench on that bolt that fits squarely, and smack that wrench counter-clockwise with a 4-lb mini sledge. Next, I'll be here to tell you to start a small gap between the transmission and transfer case on the rear of the bottom with the pry bar (the one that could separate that passenger side axle), and lightly-tap the tailshaft with the 4-lb sledge until a gap opens up at the front that you can fit a huge screwdriver into. Pry with both the pry bar and screw-driver evenly towards the passenger side far enough to get your fingertips in and yank the transfer case off the rest of the transmission's output shaft. Don't mar up the aluminum sealing surfaces doing it.
If you can't do these things as described, it's likely one of the tools you're using is the wrong size and shape. I've had plenty of driver's side axles put up a fight. I've met the transfer case I couldn't remove because I had the wrong tool for the job, and I even had a 3 foot pry bar with me. I could not remove this transfer case from a Galant that tried to kill me on a test drive when the throttle stuck at 4500 RPMs. Then someone tried to rob us in Asheville, NC. Seriously, I've had the worst transfer case fiasco anyone could ever ask for. But just don't give up. You're on your own property with it. Take your time and do it right. Get a different tool if you have to, just don't give up. If I were to add opinion of any kind, I'd suspect the pry bar you have is the wrong one for the job, just based off of which parts are giving you trouble.
Picked up a pry bar set; 8", 12", 18", 24" with tip sizes from 1/2" - 3/4", haven't tried the twist yet. Hopefully that should take care of that. As for the transfer case, I was able to get the bottom 3 bolts off with socket and wrench and a little pipe for added torque. But those top two won't budge. Tried a u-joint adapter but no go. Will penetrating oil get all the way to the threads by just spraying the head?
Creamy Italian Not really, but every little bit helps. The penetrating oil you use matters, too. PB Blaster is great for breaking steel parts loose because steel is very porous. I like Aero-Kroil for the really stuck stuff. It penetrates deeper. The hammer recommendation comes from the idea of shocking the bolt. Put all the pressure on it that you can, and give it a whack. Often times the shock of the impact puts a little extra d*** on the bolt, just enough needed to shock it into turning.
Thanks for the info. Finally got the t-case off and drivers axle out but that passenger axle does not what to come out. I'm leaving it in unless I shouldn't do that. On to the mounts, crossmember, starter and removal tomorrow.
+Creamy Italian don't pry at the edge of the axle with the tip of the pry bar. You can't get the range and force you need that way. Put the tip past the axle seal on the forward side of the axle cup, and apply pressure using the shank. It's a quick jerking motion with a little twist that typically works for me. A gradual pull rarely does the trick. If you leave the axle in, it's an awful lot more disassembly and wrangling, not to mention greater potential for damaging the axle. No denial they can be a pain sometimes to remove, but I've never met one that will absolutely not separate. On the other side of that axle seal, you have the equivalence of 40W oil and it is clean and free of rust. There's nothing there but that one damn clip. A clip that can easily lose the fight if you can come at it right. Look at how far you've come along. Remember what I said about pissing excellence. Take a break, and come back to it.
***** I need to replace my drivers side cv shaft but they gave me a normal size shaft im so confused on how to get the old cv shaft out of the race thats on the back of the engine block.... any help from any one would be greatly aappreciated..
MakeItTwisted AWD or FWD? AWD cars have a carrier bearing bolted to the block, and removing that axle is impossible without removing that carrier bearing first. Some people use a bearing press to separate that carrier bearing, but I've been lucky and literally had them just fall apart in my hands.
soo this same way is for a 3000 GT?
It's a completely different driveline, and many of the fasteners will be different, but the process is pretty much the same. It's still a transverse-mounted AWD (if it's a VR-4) sports coupe. As with all cars, don't do anything without a service manual so you can answer all your questions as they arise.
ok was confused by the title of vid saying 3000 GT trans removal and seeing an Eclipse lol Searched 3000GT and you popped up
I think I'm just getting included because they're both DSM-era Mitsubishis. In other words, it's related like cousins. The title doesn't even have "Eclipse GSX" in it. It could just be that nobody with a 3000GT has bothered to make the kinds of videos that I do yet, and an algorithm put my videos in your search. My channel has always made me out to be a Mitsubishi doood because it's the AWD 4g63 platform that I love so much and use in everything here. Search ebay for the service manual, it will give you all of your torque specs for every bolt, the locations and details of every electrical connector and the steps necessary to remove these components. I like the actual printed ones because I don't like handling my computers with mechanic hands... but the PDF versions will work just fine. Either way, they're only a couple of bucks and a must-have if you love your car. The tools, techniques, components and tricks to stay organized for what you're trying to accomplish-are in my videos even if it's a different car. Mitsubishi did a whole lot of the same things on this era of automobile even if they have a different number of cylinders.
This is why older cars are better, no fancy crap but you don't need the help of a rocket surgeon to fix them.
Who are you, Scotty Kilmer? :P
I just spent all day working on my GSX to get so little done, hahaha.
I do love the car though, hate the previous idiot mechanics.
Will earring kit for nineteen ninth five Honda acord
LOL at the peanut you found
You don't have to take the tie rod off.
the last comment... I hope your memory is like mine, because you will need to use it in order to remember where each bolt goes to... okay.. you use the technique of keeping them in their holes or together with the parts they came from, but still, some of them get lost.. and that it when the short-term memory comes in action.
I wish there more videos like this for other cars.
Don't is a pointed what ever and hammer if its seized. I put me naugahyde ( wrapped leather) hammer over the end of the shaft and hit the naugahyde with my B.F.H. Big fucking hammer. the wrapped leather hammer stops any Mal formation of the shaft and removes the issue of a misplaced strike on a punch. I have several leather hammers but you could use the hard plastic hammer and strike it with the steel hammer. comes out everytime in 30 yrs. one or two strikes. the punch sometimes will NOT work if you have a really rusty seized set up. plus by using the two hammer system you get more p.s.I. on the shaft with kit the remotest possibility of hurting the shaft or any brake guff
Michael Mills u
WHAT?
whatching these, make me headache.. but nice work mate,.. i hand it GVR4 to the pro :)