Why not take the calipers and bracket off the car to paint them? The brake lines were coming off anyway. Could have saved you the trouble of taping things up and getting overspray on the car.
...Might have done a better job too! Also: Always wear gloves - mask is strongly recommended when working around brake dust; and why oh why wear a WHITE sweatshirt!?!?! Those rotors are NOT cross drilled. Treat the mating surface on the hubs with high temp anti-seize; we treat the back side of the pads also to dampen the vibrations that cause squeal. Get a proper tool for the hose fittings - called 'line wrench'.Clean, clean, clean fittings 1st!! Scars from vise-grips are a sign of a hack job. Carb cleaner is better at getting under coating off; THEN brake clean.
I can't believe you are doing this now. I had my EBC black dash with green stuff 2000 and I.L. Motorsport stainless steel lines installed four days ago. Not sure if they are the first replacement, as I already have 126tkm. The pedal feel is quite a lot better, and as you said, peace of mind with their expected longevity is totally worth it. So far, my 2012 miata hasn't let me down either ^~^
I've been there.... Rear left as well. After FM Summer Camp, I put on a set of StopTech slotted rotors along with some Hawk HPS pads, and I've been pretty happy with that setup.
Hey Jordan, you could give the rotors a hand and clearn the rust on the hubs and then paint them too just to prevent more rusting. I just did that on all 4 wheels. rotative tool (dremel) with wire wheel and a small brush with wire bristles. eye protection of course.. (is a must) and then caliper painted the hubs
my rear callipers were sticking, I was annihilating pads out on the track! In the end I got the rebuild kits and rebuilt all 4 corners, made a huge difference! Extremely fiddly, anyone doing the same I recommend you get the pre built replacement rear pistons because they are really hard to put back together without damaging them. Fronts were much easier. My brake lines were also stripped, had to use clamps to open and tighten them back up.
if ur making it a 2 day job, spray fasteners with penetrating fluid so it soaks in overnight. Also, since you're taking the calipers off, THAT is the best time to do the painting correctly. Caliper is hanging up on the guide pin. Clean VERY well & regrease with CORRECT grease. Ok, gotta STOP watching these clowns who don't know what they're doing.
Why not take the calipers and bracket off the car to paint them? The brake lines were coming off anyway. Could have saved you the trouble of taping things up and getting overspray on the car.
...Might have done a better job too! Also: Always wear gloves - mask is strongly recommended when working around brake dust; and why oh why wear a WHITE sweatshirt!?!?! Those rotors are NOT cross drilled. Treat the mating surface on the hubs with high temp anti-seize; we treat the back side of the pads also to dampen the vibrations that cause squeal. Get a proper tool for the hose fittings - called 'line wrench'.Clean, clean, clean fittings 1st!! Scars from vise-grips are a sign of a hack job. Carb cleaner is better at getting under coating off; THEN brake clean.
The caliper pins seized so the piston was only applying pressure on the one pad. Cleaning and lubing those pins is one of the most important steps.
I can't believe you are doing this now. I had my EBC black dash with green stuff 2000 and I.L. Motorsport stainless steel lines installed four days ago. Not sure if they are the first replacement, as I already have 126tkm.
The pedal feel is quite a lot better, and as you said, peace of mind with their expected longevity is totally worth it. So far, my 2012 miata hasn't let me down either ^~^
I've been there.... Rear left as well. After FM Summer Camp, I put on a set of StopTech slotted rotors along with some Hawk HPS pads, and I've been pretty happy with that setup.
Flare nut spanners work well for the brake lines 👍
Hey Jordan, you could give the rotors a hand and clearn the rust on the hubs and then paint them too just to prevent more rusting. I just did that on all 4 wheels. rotative tool (dremel) with wire wheel and a small brush with wire bristles. eye protection of course.. (is a must) and then caliper painted the hubs
my rear callipers were sticking, I was annihilating pads out on the track! In the end I got the rebuild kits and rebuilt all 4 corners, made a huge difference! Extremely fiddly, anyone doing the same I recommend you get the pre built replacement rear pistons because they are really hard to put back together without damaging them.
Fronts were much easier.
My brake lines were also stripped, had to use clamps to open and tighten them back up.
First view 😀
One day bro, you'll be my go to channel when I have the NC Miata.
New brake pads, rotors & lines. With 4 pairs of premium shoes. : )
shoes are for drum brakes...
when the pads are worn on the inside it is probably because the pistons in the calipers are sticking... you should rebuild or replace the calipers
Hey homie, you just put a band-aid on your rear brake problem by only replacing the pads....gotta step up and fix it correctly. Peace.
I did re-grease all 4 corners of pins and they now seem to wear evenly! Just in case you missed that part in the video.
@@FlywheelFilms Saw that part, did I miss the caliper repair/grease/rebuild?
Are the frond brakes backworts ??? The rear look good but the frond just askin???
The piston is on the inside that’s why the inside pad wears quickest.
Hey you changed the shift knob again?
if ur making it a 2 day job, spray fasteners with penetrating fluid so it soaks in overnight. Also, since you're taking the calipers off, THAT is the best time to do the painting correctly. Caliper is hanging up on the guide pin. Clean VERY well & regrease with CORRECT grease. Ok, gotta STOP watching these clowns who don't know what they're doing.
A proper brake line wrench would've helped.
Yeah I figured it was time to buy some decent flare nut spanners when doing my hoses. Definitely $40 well spent
Na ?