Thanks for this video. I stopped using my drop checker once my co2 levels stabilized & I got a digital pH meter too. But lately my co2 needle valve isn't working right and my co2 is swinging around. This has given me the push to get my drop checker back out. The pH meter probes are expensive and keep getting overgrown with black algae.
I like to have my CO2 come on quite a bit earlier than the lights and I always keep good surface agitation to reduce the chances of harming the fish by keeping oxygen levels and CO2 levels high. This does inevitably waste some CO2 from off gassing at the waters surface.
I have used a drop checker... and used a good quality liquid pH test kit at the same time, to test the water pH values Oddly, the pH of the water tests virtually the same with the liquid test kit (I am hard-pressed to see any difference), despite the drop checker colour fluctuating - even when the drop checker is bright yellow! I don't bother with drop checkers anymore: I look at the condition of the fish, shrimp and the plants... The plants are lush and the fish/shrimp are lively. The shrimp are breeding like crazy - I have absolutely no idea how many are in that tank now... there are a lot): that is my monitoring system. My filtration and water movement are both quite powerful. I think that is what keeps the whole thing well balanced? The C02 system is a fairly beefy homemade yeast/sugar system which runs 24/7, with two reagent bottles that get exchanged alternately to provide a reasonably stable level of co2 injection (in terms of bubbles per second).
Once again great information 👌
I really like the video you made for the siesta lighting period. Can you tell me what your lighting and co2 schedule was if you'd be so kind 🙂
Great content. Thanks for the upload.
Thanks for this video. I stopped using my drop checker once my co2 levels stabilized & I got a digital pH meter too. But lately my co2 needle valve isn't working right and my co2 is swinging around.
This has given me the push to get my drop checker back out. The pH meter probes are expensive and keep getting overgrown with black algae.
I like to have my CO2 come on quite a bit earlier than the lights and I always keep good surface agitation to reduce the chances of harming the fish by keeping oxygen levels and CO2 levels high. This does inevitably waste some CO2 from off gassing at the waters surface.
I do exactly the same with the surface agitation. As long as you can get a cheap enough supply of CO2 I think it's worth it! 👍
I have used a drop checker... and used a good quality liquid pH test kit at the same time, to test the water pH values
Oddly, the pH of the water tests virtually the same with the liquid test kit (I am hard-pressed to see any difference), despite the drop checker colour fluctuating - even when the drop checker is bright yellow!
I don't bother with drop checkers anymore: I look at the condition of the fish, shrimp and the plants... The plants are lush and the fish/shrimp are lively. The shrimp are breeding like crazy - I have absolutely no idea how many are in that tank now... there are a lot): that is my monitoring system.
My filtration and water movement are both quite powerful. I think that is what keeps the whole thing well balanced?
The C02 system is a fairly beefy homemade yeast/sugar system which runs 24/7, with two reagent bottles that get exchanged alternately to provide a reasonably stable level of co2 injection (in terms of bubbles per second).
how deep does the hang over types have to dip into the water? and does it make a difference?
Hiya. As long as the end is fully submerged so no atmospheric air can get in it doesn't matter what depth it sits at. Cheers.
34.10 euro per 10gr.