CALLING OUT bad work help to stop bad work by others. Since no names where used there is no one harmed ! So times the help people do is being a bad example worth remembering . It an instructional video here not a rant video . Trolls will triggered by free air . Keep up the fine videos they are very informative .
You'll love it once you get a reactive load. Being able to use a 100 watt amp at any hour of the day, at power, by running an IR loader and headphones is both fun and a kindness to your hearing. Easily the best guitar related purchase I've made in the last 10 years.
I use an older Two Notes Torpedo Live. It's a good and inexpensive choice since I see them for $300ish, used, and they're fine for up to 100W (and Peavey's 120W amps). I'd love to get the Suhr reactive load/IR or the Fryette Power Station because they supposedly react nicer, but I haven't felt the need to replace what's working. I'll usually have the Torpedo Live set with no cab/mic setup and run it into a DAW and then use a cab loader so I have more options with respect to handling the IRs. Wall of Sound is great for Two Notes' cabs, since you can do multiple cabs at a time (since the Torpedo Live is a 10 year old design, it can only do one cab sim). Ignite Libra is what I use for normal IRs since I can blend between multiple IRs at once. That said, if you don't want to be running cables and so forth, a single cab sim running on the Torpedo can sound ver nice. In general, amp sims aren't quite perfect, but they're pretty close to as good as a real cab. With the Torpedo Live, I've noticed that I need to set the knobs a bit brighter than I would if I had the amp run into a real cab. Even if I run a V30 IR and then plug the same amp into a physical V30 cabinet, it's always super harsh in the room until I back treble and presence off. Might be the older design of the Torpedo Live, might be the IRs I run, might be the way my ear hears the real speaker vs the filtering from the mic being added to the IR. But it still gives you a real amp to use and the lower noise floor of a tube amp, compared to my experience with amp sims, along with the real amp feel. Since I'm just an enthusiastic amateur, it's the difference between only being able to fire up 100W heads on special occasions or being able to use them at will. And that's ignoring the ability to not cause further hearing damage/loss compared to what I've already done to myself when I was younger. So long as you're not hoping to use it with super high wattage artillery like a Sunn Model T or a Marshall Major, it's a fantastic tool.
Thanks. In this case, of cleaning all ground connections. This is the stock scheme here. Just working again for the first time in decades, going by the dirt/corrosion/bad solder I got out. So I am a Master Janitor. If you need me, I’ll be in my El Camino…
Yes, by all means call them out!!!! There is no reason for sloppy craftsmanship EVER!!!!! Thank you for your honesty and great work habits from A to Z!!!!!!!
You really spoil us when we see the work of a tech who cares. When I get amps and guitars worked on all I can see is the sloppy work. When you do something as simple as ensuring all the switches look and feel even it’s just such a pro move! Thanks for sharing.
❤ 4 Marshall clean and dirty....does both dare I say best...yea, I do!!! I have a '65 Deluxe ok, and it's clean is great at super low volume, but...a Marshall 1959 and 1987 is 🤯 LOVE GREAT TUBE AMPS ...Variety of so many great tube amps, so many....!!!
Maybe my favorite piece of gear is my Fryette PS-100. Steve announced a couple months ago an updated version of the Powerload IR, you might check that out if you haven’t already. Obviously can’t go wrong with Suhr too.
Nice video, Lyle. For future reference, if I'm not mistaken, acetone can be used to dissolve cured superglue. That said, I don't know if it would also damage/dissolve the plastic the indicator lamp is made of. If it's made out of polystyrene, acrylic, polycarbonate, or ABS then it will make a mess out of the indicator lamp.
Acetone and most plastics do not get along (IIRC, Teflon, polypropylene and polyethyline are relatively immune). Commercial Superglue debonding agents are typically a mix of nitromethane and acetone, which similarly damages plastic. I don't know of any plastic-safe solvents for CA glues....
Sounds very musical with the p90🤠 the strat had some hendrix mojo the humbucker needs Volume on a celestian green back, just make a cab, with a box cover and padding with a mike in there, you get volume, speaker brake up snd mids, and recorging 🤠💥
I have a Torpedo Captor X and a Tone King Ironman 2, both are fantastic for being able to turn up my tube amps to the juicy spot without the neighbors calling the cops.
@@PsionicAudio I haven’t noticed any negative tone coloring out of my Friedman Smallbox, that’s what I mainly use them for. I have a Marshall DSL40CR that I haven’t used them on yet. Using the 20 watt setting on the amp the volume is manageable.
Thanks. There are a lot of factors. Having a shared fully bypassed cathode on V1 helps. Having relatively low gain in the preamp helps. But some are just noisy and others just aren’t. With the stock grounding. I can make them all quiet by changing that, but decided this one didn’t need the extra bit.
I have a Tele Fender pro2, and I like to change the pots out from push pull pots plus pickups. Can you maybe make a short video on pots, cheap ones to top quality. Just a video idea you are a trust score on UA-cam no smoke. I bought a Tone King amp basic on all the amp you have had in your shop. You tell like it is and in today's world that's as rare as frog hair.
Thanks! I’ve got a video up on pots in a Tele. But you have to know how much resistance you want on the pots too. Some guys like really low torque, others want them to have a bit of resistance. That’s all aside from taper/value/quality, especially with a Tele.
It is NOT shit-talking when you call out f'ups where the electrons need to flow. It's a freaking teaching moment. Might even be quelling a fire hazard.
Have you had the chance to work on newer Ashdown bass amps, especially the solid state models? Ashdown claims their solid state line is made to be 100% repairable, I'm wondering if this is true from an actual repairmans perspective.
Not any very recent ones but the ones from the past decade have had very bad design decisions with bad insulation between high/low voltage bits and capacitors getting baked by heat sinks. I’ve not been a fan.
I have a 1973 super bass and tried to find the appropriate colored knobs and the ones I found were more of a reddish color than a brown color. Do you know where I can get some period correct looking knobs?
Marshall knobs are extremely similar looking to some vintage HH Scott and Fisher hifi amp/receiver knobs from the 50s, a similar brown or reddish-brown color, and I'll bet if you look into suppliers who service the vintage hifi collector's market you might find reproduction knobs that look appropriate......
Update: There's a business in Farmingdale New York called Electronic Hardware Corporation or EHC, which bills itself as the world's largest supplier of OEM and custom knobs since 1962. They might have,, or could probably make, anything you want, if the original minimum order was large enough.The website and photos list a gazillion styles of knobs but whether they have something in the right color I couldn't tell, not from the black and white website anyway. It might be worth calling them; ya never know! Looking at Audiokarma and some of the other online groups for vintage I fight collectors it seems that people often buy Marshall reproduction knobs to use on their vintage Scott and Fisher equipment!
@@PsionicAudio OK well the ones I bought were some cheap Chinese crap, get what you pay for. Really I just need the metal caps that are on the knobs, two of them.... Thanks Lyle
@@PsionicAudio fair point, you're not one to cut corners (lol, accidental pun, sorry). In New Zealand, anything from the US is expensive, so a Suhr reactive load would be getting close to $1.5K NZD, hence the MDF iso box is an attractive option. But yes, you do need a dingy basement for it to live in.
Suhr will be miles ahead in audio quality with a good IR. The only thing that would come close would be a Fryette Power Station but they introduce more variables so I’d take Suhr.
Reaching huh. God tier lmao. People.... They are amps and there days are numbered. Let's face it nothing even close to new since the bassman. Just modified circuits that have been played with for almost 70 years.
CALLING OUT bad work help to stop bad work by others. Since no names where used there is no one harmed ! So times the help people do is being a bad example worth remembering . It an instructional video here not a rant video . Trolls will triggered by free air . Keep up the fine videos they are very informative .
Calling out bad work helps me - as a hobby amp-builder - do good work. Much appreciated.
I have a 72’. Bought it 33 years ago. Fantastic amp.
Your work is truly outstanding.
So damn amazingly loud. Well said
You'll love it once you get a reactive load. Being able to use a 100 watt amp at any hour of the day, at power, by running an IR loader and headphones is both fun and a kindness to your hearing. Easily the best guitar related purchase I've made in the last 10 years.
what do you use?
I use an older Two Notes Torpedo Live. It's a good and inexpensive choice since I see them for $300ish, used, and they're fine for up to 100W (and Peavey's 120W amps). I'd love to get the Suhr reactive load/IR or the Fryette Power Station because they supposedly react nicer, but I haven't felt the need to replace what's working.
I'll usually have the Torpedo Live set with no cab/mic setup and run it into a DAW and then use a cab loader so I have more options with respect to handling the IRs. Wall of Sound is great for Two Notes' cabs, since you can do multiple cabs at a time (since the Torpedo Live is a 10 year old design, it can only do one cab sim). Ignite Libra is what I use for normal IRs since I can blend between multiple IRs at once. That said, if you don't want to be running cables and so forth, a single cab sim running on the Torpedo can sound ver nice.
In general, amp sims aren't quite perfect, but they're pretty close to as good as a real cab. With the Torpedo Live, I've noticed that I need to set the knobs a bit brighter than I would if I had the amp run into a real cab. Even if I run a V30 IR and then plug the same amp into a physical V30 cabinet, it's always super harsh in the room until I back treble and presence off. Might be the older design of the Torpedo Live, might be the IRs I run, might be the way my ear hears the real speaker vs the filtering from the mic being added to the IR. But it still gives you a real amp to use and the lower noise floor of a tube amp, compared to my experience with amp sims, along with the real amp feel.
Since I'm just an enthusiastic amateur, it's the difference between only being able to fire up 100W heads on special occasions or being able to use them at will. And that's ignoring the ability to not cause further hearing damage/loss compared to what I've already done to myself when I was younger. So long as you're not hoping to use it with super high wattage artillery like a Sunn Model T or a Marshall Major, it's a fantastic tool.
@@calliphor8764thank you!
Wow, there's like no hum. I think Lyle is a master of grounding.
Thanks.
In this case, of cleaning all ground connections. This is the stock scheme here. Just working again for the first time in decades, going by the dirt/corrosion/bad solder I got out.
So I am a Master Janitor. If you need me, I’ll be in my El Camino…
Wow, it does not cease to amaze me how much difference the soldering makes.
King Midas of amp repair!
That’s the overdrive sound every overdrive pedal wishes it could do!
That was truly a sonic treat. For any large venue it would be a pro player's guitar pedal platform dream amp.
That one really is special, it sounded AMAZING! Beautiful work as always!
With the P-90, that amp sounds like a dream.
Yes, by all means call them out!!!! There is no reason for sloppy craftsmanship EVER!!!!! Thank you for your honesty and great work habits from A to Z!!!!!!!
Love your work, Lyle. Thanks for sharing!
Sounds like a big warm hug!
Aloha Lyle and Mahalo! Instead of finding an old Marshall and having to grow thru it. I went and bought a new Germino. I'm happy with my decision.
You really spoil us when we see the work of a tech who cares. When I get amps and guitars worked on all I can see is the sloppy work. When you do something as simple as ensuring all the switches look and feel even it’s just such a pro move! Thanks for sharing.
Nice work! Audio, lighting, production, all super tight.
damn.. what a sweet sounding amp..! loved it
Nice work mate...
Lovely responsive amp... ur picking dynamics especially with the Strat...
Marshall cleans are definitely under used and underrated.
That amp sounds wonderful Lyle
There’s a reason Malcom Young and Adam Jones used them, they sound great. Especially in the hands of a master like them.
That sounds fantastic and powerful.
❤ 4 Marshall clean and dirty....does both dare I say best...yea, I do!!! I have a '65 Deluxe ok, and it's clean is great at super low volume, but...a Marshall 1959 and 1987 is 🤯 LOVE GREAT TUBE AMPS ...Variety of so many great tube amps, so many....!!!
Get a pair of Bose Quiet Control buds. They’re a little pricey but helps when you wanna move some air.😉 love ya Lyle!❤ you rock!👍🏼
It's a "Rip your head off" kinda amp... Great tone!
Love my ‘74 1987 through a Suhr Reactive Load, it’s so much fun.
Sounds perfect.
Glorious
Maybe my favorite piece of gear is my Fryette PS-100. Steve announced a couple months ago an updated version of the Powerload IR, you might check that out if you haven’t already. Obviously can’t go wrong with Suhr too.
Beautiful
Nice video, Lyle. For future reference, if I'm not mistaken, acetone can be used to dissolve cured superglue. That said, I don't know if it would also damage/dissolve the plastic the indicator lamp is made of. If it's made out of polystyrene, acrylic, polycarbonate, or ABS then it will make a mess out of the indicator lamp.
Acetone and most plastics do not get along (IIRC, Teflon, polypropylene and polyethyline are relatively immune). Commercial Superglue debonding agents are typically a mix of nitromethane and acetone, which similarly damages plastic. I don't know of any plastic-safe solvents for CA glues....
Your channel is God Tier
I appreciate the thought but I can’t live up to that.
@@PsionicAudio Neither can God, Lyle. Live with the praise.
Cheers,
Alan
Berlin
Sounds very musical with the p90🤠
the strat had some hendrix mojo
the humbucker needs Volume on a celestian green back, just make a cab, with a box cover and padding with a mike in there, you get volume, speaker brake up snd mids, and recorging 🤠💥
If you need the IR's get the suhr or fryette, if you just need the load box the fractal x-load is really good.
I have a Torpedo Captor X and a Tone King Ironman 2, both are fantastic for being able to turn up my tube amps to the juicy spot without the neighbors calling the cops.
Those are a lot more colored than the Suhr, Fryette, UA, and Fractal options.
@@PsionicAudio I haven’t noticed any negative tone coloring out of my Friedman Smallbox, that’s what I mainly use them for. I have a Marshall DSL40CR that I haven’t used them on yet. Using the 20 watt setting on the amp the volume is manageable.
LOUDER!
The amount of volume these amps are capable of need another word to describe it. If a Vibrolux is a jet engine, a JMP is Krakatoa.
I always called it birdcaged not birdnesting I learned something new today.
Sounds great, low noise floor. Do you find that some of these older amps are just quiet? Or do you have to change the ground scheme? Great video!
Thanks. There are a lot of factors. Having a shared fully bypassed cathode on V1 helps. Having relatively low gain in the preamp helps.
But some are just noisy and others just aren’t. With the stock grounding. I can make them all quiet by changing that, but decided this one didn’t need the extra bit.
I have a Tele Fender pro2, and I like to change the pots out from push pull pots plus pickups. Can you maybe make a short video on pots, cheap ones to top quality. Just a video idea you are a trust score on UA-cam no smoke. I bought a Tone King amp basic on all the amp you have had in your shop. You tell like it is and in today's world that's as rare as frog hair.
Thanks! I’ve got a video up on pots in a Tele. But you have to know how much resistance you want on the pots too. Some guys like really low torque, others want them to have a bit of resistance. That’s all aside from taper/value/quality, especially with a Tele.
@@PsionicAudio thank you I’ll look that up.
Superglue- 101 uses!
Held In Place By Corrosion would be a pretty good band name. Or maybe second album name.
It is NOT shit-talking when you call out f'ups where the electrons need to flow. It's a freaking teaching moment. Might even be quelling a fire hazard.
And if I had said that in a video cue the guys saying “well actually electrons don’t flow.”
;)
👍👍
Have you had the chance to work on newer Ashdown bass amps, especially the solid state models? Ashdown claims their solid state line is made to be 100% repairable, I'm wondering if this is true from an actual repairmans perspective.
Not any very recent ones but the ones from the past decade have had very bad design decisions with bad insulation between high/low voltage bits and capacitors getting baked by heat sinks. I’ve not been a fan.
@@PsionicAudio That's a bummer. I just switched to Ashdown after too many headaches with unserviceable class D amps.
I was just given a class 5 Marshall from 2011, any opinions on those ?
I have a 1973 super bass and tried to find the appropriate colored knobs and the ones I found were more of a reddish color than a brown color. Do you know where I can get some period correct looking knobs?
Valvestorm has nice ones, though I don’t play the exact cosmetics game myself.
Marshall knobs are extremely similar looking to some vintage HH Scott and Fisher hifi amp/receiver knobs from the 50s, a similar brown or reddish-brown color, and I'll bet if you look into suppliers who service the vintage hifi collector's market you might find reproduction knobs that look appropriate......
Update: There's a business in Farmingdale New York called Electronic Hardware Corporation or EHC, which bills itself as the world's largest supplier of OEM and custom knobs since 1962. They might have,, or could probably make, anything you want, if the original minimum order was large enough.The website and photos list a gazillion styles of knobs but whether they have something in the right color I couldn't tell, not from the black and white website anyway. It might be worth calling them; ya never know!
Looking at Audiokarma and some of the other online groups for vintage I fight collectors it seems that people often buy Marshall reproduction knobs to use on their vintage Scott and Fisher equipment!
@@PsionicAudio OK well the ones I bought were some cheap Chinese crap, get what you pay for. Really I just need the metal caps that are on the knobs, two of them.... Thanks Lyle
You could build yourself an isolation box out of MDF and put a mic'd guitar cab in it, probably cheaper than getting a Suhr.
I’ll put that in the other wing of my mansion. Do you have any idea how large that setup would be? Or how limiting?
Oh, and it would cost a LOT more to do it right.
@@PsionicAudio fair point, you're not one to cut corners (lol, accidental pun, sorry). In New Zealand, anything from the US is expensive, so a Suhr reactive load would be getting close to $1.5K NZD, hence the MDF iso box is an attractive option. But yes, you do need a dingy basement for it to live in.
Suhr will be miles ahead in audio quality with a good IR. The only thing that would come close would be a Fryette Power Station but they introduce more variables so I’d take Suhr.
🤘😎🍻💯🎸🔥
You have to call out bad work because there is no resource such as Consumer Reports for amp techs.
Always call out bad work Complainers leave
Reaching huh. God tier lmao. People.... They are amps and there days are numbered. Let's face it nothing even close to new since the bassman. Just modified circuits that have been played with for almost 70 years.
Just pour a new bowl of cereal.
Great VIDEOS