10:45 I have experimented with a variety of seats in my kayak, and while I never found an ideal seat from a comfort standpoint, I have learned that a low seating position makes a HUGE difference in stability in the boat. Going from a standard commercial kayak seat to sitting on a foam pad on the hull gives a stability increase equivalent to placing a moderate gear load low on the keel of the boat. The seats he demonstrates here will maximize your stability.
You have great knowledge and your videos are very well done. Even though it is quite intimidating for me, I can't wait to find time to start to build your kayak.
As usual, great video. Instead of hdpe or brass rub strips, Is a layer of thickened epoxy, applied direct to the nylon before the poly coating, an option for protecting the keel (and chines)? If it wears down it seems it would be fairly easy to touch it up as needed.
He does now teach a technique to add extra epoxy on the keel. It all has to be done when building, there's no touching up the coating Brian uses after it fully cures.
As you were talking about protections the bottom of the boat I wondered if you had ever tried helicopter tape. I’m not sure how well it would adhere to the coating, or how well it would hold up to being submerged but I know it can handle a lot.
I'm trying to figure how much fabric to buy for a 14' F1. ---finally found it in the reskinning video where Brian mentions "A foot longer" than the boat being re-skinned. So I redacted the rest of this comment.
For a bunch of technical reasons that wouldn’t work very well. I mean you could do it, but by the time it was strong enough to work there would be no reason to have a frame inside and you might as well just build a regular Kevlar boat
@@capefalconkayak interesting, thank you so much for replying! My understanding was that Kevlar fibers are much stronger per weight than nylon. Am I wrong? If not why doesn’t this apply well to kayak skin?
10:45 I have experimented with a variety of seats in my kayak, and while I never found an ideal seat from a comfort
standpoint, I have learned that a low seating position makes a HUGE difference in stability in the boat. Going from a
standard commercial kayak seat to sitting on a foam pad on the hull gives a stability increase equivalent to placing a
moderate gear load low on the keel of the boat. The seats he demonstrates here will maximize your stability.
You have great knowledge and your videos are very well done. Even though it is quite intimidating for me, I can't wait to find time to start to build your kayak.
Another great video Brian. Thank you.
Great videos. Would love to build one of these myself someday. Very cool
Great video....great info thanks
Great video!!
Wonderful video. The way you fittings the deck lines, doesn't let water get into the kayak?
As usual, great video. Instead of hdpe or brass rub strips, Is a layer of thickened epoxy, applied direct to the nylon before the poly coating, an option for protecting the keel (and chines)? If it wears down it seems it would be fairly easy to touch it up as needed.
It wouldn’t be compatible with the two-part polyurethane I use.
He does now teach a technique to add extra epoxy on the keel. It all has to be done when building, there's no touching up the coating Brian uses after it fully cures.
As you were talking about protections the bottom of the boat I wondered if you had ever tried helicopter tape. I’m not sure how well it would adhere to the coating, or how well it would hold up to being submerged but I know it can handle a lot.
I've never heard of it, I'll have to look into it!
I'm trying to figure how much fabric to buy for a 14' F1. ---finally found it in the reskinning video where Brian mentions "A foot longer" than the boat being re-skinned. So I redacted the rest of this comment.
I like you presentation
Have you ever thought about covering a kayak with Kevlar and epoxy resin instead of nylon?
For a bunch of technical reasons that wouldn’t work very well. I mean you could do it, but by the time it was strong enough to work there would be no reason to have a frame inside and you might as well just build a regular Kevlar boat
@@capefalconkayak interesting, thank you so much for replying! My understanding was that Kevlar fibers are much stronger per weight than nylon. Am I wrong? If not why doesn’t this apply well to kayak skin?
nylon 9oz/sqft? Trying to translate to g/m² but there's no fabric that heavy here.
350 g/m2 its mentioned in German in www.seekajakforum.de/forum/read.php?1,38927
9oz/sqyard, which is 305g/m2, you can buy 310g/m2
How much a canoe like this cost?
$2300, $1000 if you build it.