Making Scatter Terrain for Warhammer 40K Kill Team
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
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Just a quick suggestion that might help adjust it to look better and so you are happier with the results. It me it looks like the cryochamber is actually a freeze chamber and the system is malfunctioning and frosting over. You could add some snow effects or icicles hanging from the top to give it that over frozen look. Overall though I think its really well done and a good idea.
Yup thats exactly how I see it, mistakes just mean its a 1,000 years old lol 🙂
Great idea, add extra ice, take that frozen look and run with it.
A Dremel would have really helped to sand and polish that cloudy resin. Dremel, if you're reading this, send this man a fortiflex!
I do have a cheap dremel and yup next time I will give it a go 🙂
The cloudiness is because the surface inside the mold was not perfectly smooth and, yeah, the talc got caught up in the resin. Try spraying a release agent inside the mold next time before the resin goes in. This should provide a barrier to keep any foreign contaminants from sticking to the resin. And once you started sanding, the only way to get the results you were looking for is to keep sanding and eventually polishing the surface. Sanding needed to go up to at least 800 grit (and I would have likely taken it to 1200) and then use a polishing compound to really bring out the luster.
I used a UV resin-sealed, clear plastic sheet inside my empty cryo-tube, then put in the monster, (mutant Illithid) and then poured the resin. It worked quite well, but yours just looks like there's a cryo-freeze, ice effect on the tube. It's fine.
Yeah I really thought mine would work well, oh well its just a 1,000 year old chamber lol 😂
It’s great, makes it even more mysterious 😉
个人建议：怪物用透明环氧树脂单独封装，做成桶装，这样便于脱模后的打磨光滑，同时，也不会影响到外框由于打磨后的掉漆。但这样需要重新建模，设计为嵌套的样式和尺寸。分开进行会减少后期人为修补，减少体力损耗
You can put high gloss varnish on your epoxy to make it transparent again
I save a lot of "blister pack" clear plastic for situations like this. It's good for glass in windows, card protectors, touch screen panels, etc.
Might not be what aimed for but I really like it, to me it looks like how I imagine an alien in a block of ice looks.
You can use Lego bricks or similar to make the casting mould, just pull apart after and re use.
I love how this turned out. It gives the model an old effect. I know I am a day or so later, but I know the reason(s) why the model was pockmarked and frosted when you removed it from the mold and the reasons build on each other. This happens a lot in resin dice making.
First, the item to be molded was not perfectly smooth. It will always copy the small divets if it does not have a glass like finish.
The second reason has to do with the materials used. You used a, presumably, Platnium-based silicone for the mold. Platnium-based reacts with standard 3D resin parts. You need to put a layer on the part to act as an intermediary OR allow it to off-gas for possibly months. It would be best if you had a tin-based silicone to work directly with 3D parts, and even then some printer resins may still interact.
Nice work dude 💗💗
Most silicon reacts with UV cure resin.
If you’re looking to create anything that is cylindrical you can buy clear acrylic tubing in different sizes. It’s then just a matter of adjusting the inner diameter of your tank to fit the outer diameter of the acrylic tubing and you’re set. Once you’ve glued it to the bottom of the tank and glued on the lid of the tank you should have a water tight cylinder which you can either fill it with your choice of liquid or resin. Clear slime looks pretty cool (which you can make with clear PVA glue) or you can use something like glycerine which you can tint various colours.
I have got some cylindrical tubing but as the cryo chamber has the bars I thought I would try making a mould, its all good fun trying these things
@@MiniatureHobbyist Absolutely. I really admire the fact that you continued on even after encountering your problems. Many others would’ve simply given up and started again. I’ve always have been of the philosophy that we should admit our mistakes to build upon them. The only reason I suggested the polycarbonate tubing is because of a project I’m planning which involves a 3D print of Wolverine when he is in a water tank during his Weapon X experimentation time. I really like what you’re doing on your channel.
I'm wondering if you could've used iso alcohol to wash the cloudy resin, then gone over with the uv resin afterwards. I think sanding compounded the problem
I like the way it's turned out it looks like the mechanism is slightly broken and the outside has frozen over
If you use hot glue instead of the super glue and uv resin you'll save money and you should be able to get away with the thinner plastic especially since iso will eat the glue if needed.
I wonder if it was the heat of the resin curing which chipped of parts of the acrylic paint. Resin can get quite hot while it's curing!
The frosted look could make sense for the outside of a cryo chamber
Print the tank part in crystal clear resin separate from the rest of the parts that you print in solid colors. Attach the creature in the same manner. Fill the tank with crystal clear or tinted resin. Then you can paint all the parts that need to look solid and add them to the solid parts and the light. And yes, it looks like the mold had a light texture inside, and that imparted texture to the resin casting. For crystal clear resin to look like glass it has to be very smooth and very polished. Which means polishing the object you make a mold off of, or polishing the mold, or polishing the casting.
I assume it goes cloudy due to micro inaccuracies in the surface, which isnt present on the non-molded side - maybe some gloss varnish or resin can even out the roughness and make it crisp?
Experimenting fun. Good on ya!
Yeah thats what its all about and if things go wrong I will still show the video lol 🙂
That's weird. Maybe there was a texture somewhere in the process.
Either on the 3D printed chamber blank or the talcum powder on the mold. It's still cool to see you jam on it👍👍👍👍
not sure, but could it be that to avoid the paint getting reactivated with the resin and chipping off during the cure, be because you didn't varnish it beforehand? I really liked the idea and although it didn't go as intended it still is a "cool" piece mate!
Just wondering if you could have printed the glass chamber you made the mold of in a clear resin? Then just slot the guy in there?
Nice video brother 👍
Great stuff 🔥 Where do you get the transfers from?
My Saturn IV ultra should be here Monday. I have some army painter speed paints and wanted to know what you might recommend as a good beginner-friendly mini to paint.
I honestly suggest army men for the fact of cheap and if you goof up there is no attachment so you can move on to the next.
Independence Day alien? 🤓
Making or printing? Lol