the more experience that you have with whatever work you may be doing will affect how long your edge will last and some examples of knife skills. caltoncutlery.com
Hey Joe 🤘 Im the guy you were referring too on Instagram lol I appreciate the kind words alot, im actually a knifemaker too so it means alot. I was a professional chef for many years so being efficient with a knife is was a critical skill that we needed. Which to your point, efficiency with a knife(how your cutting) and the task (what your actually cutting) have very big impacts on edge retention. Every single steel has the exact same edge retention when chopping rocks right? Great series your doing here.
hi steve. i figured that you had to have spent alot of time on a cutting board to work like that. it was very cool to watch! thanks for posting that vid. and thanks for the kind words about this little series.
I have seen YT videos on the mobile butchers, they make short order of very large animals. Lots to be learned from these professionals. Their experience is the most powerful tool for sure. They might not have the best steel in the blade but they can clean and straighten that edge well enough and easily enough, and then the expert execution fills in all the gaps. Not a wasted step or cutting motion when navigating their work. Efficient and proficient
jantz for misc stuff, pops for grinding belts, jantz and admiral for steel. local wood shops for most handle materials. amazon for sandpaper and other misc also.
Yes, great points. In another video, I heard you say something about 440 stainlness is not the funnest steel to sharpen. When I looked at my knives they are mostly 440 stainless. Maybe that's part of the reason I get so frustrated with my edges. I guess I should look into better steel. But it's all so mind boggling to me. PS: My main thing is I pack live stock in the woods. And my main concern is cutting ropes quick if a wreck situation occurs. But then my knives go through a lot of hard chores work too. Maybe I should have two, one for emergencies razor sharp and the other that can go a little dull for a while before sharpening.
my 440c is is easy to sharpen. it does take a little longer on natural stones like arks, but manmade waterstones like the king 1000/6000, norton crystolon, and diamonds work well. 440 stainless takes a little expalining. real 440c is a very good steel and can be heat treated to a pretty good range of hardness. mine is pretty hard, as in a file wont really cut it. i think some of the older buck knives were 440c at higher hardnesses before they started using softer steel. there were also 440a and 440b. and ive seen fairly low quality gas station class knives with the 440 mark on them. with softer stainless knives like the 440, 420 and unmarked types, the dificulty in sharpening them is not so much getting a stone to cut it, but the burr that they form can be tough to remove as it will bend back and forth at about the same speed that it forms. so with that class of steel, a good way to sharpen it is to do the plateu method, where you destress the edgge by cutting into the side of the stone enough so that you can see light reflect along the entire cutting edge, then take a couple of strokes on each side, reducing the amount of light that you can see reflected offf the edge and repeat untill you dont see light anymore. this method lets you bring the edge just to sharp, without creating a burr. it works very well, but requires some patience, and good eyesight or optics and stong light.
@@joecalton1449 Dang, that's good stuff. Thanks. I'll reread this a couple times next time I'm sharpening. I have been using quality Arkansas stones with oil. But maybe I'll one of the man made stones like you said. When I'm ready to drop a few hundred bucks I'll give you a ring. Thank you. Quality beats quantity over and over again it seems.
@@scottc3165 if you have a couple of minutes or hours, you can google 440 stainless and ill bet someone has all the facts on the differences between all the grades of 400 series stainless steels. i love arks, they are gorgeous stones, and leave a nice finish, and you can change the way they cut by how you surface them. but they are one of the slowest of the sharpening stones out there, right alongside the ceramices from what I have seen. it is really tough to beat the manmade crystolon, waterstones and diamonds for everyday sharpening.
Arkansas should be used when the knife is already sharp. It makes it even sharper. You cannot start with a dull knife with Arkansas, haha, only half joking ok. That's why they include an India stone with those Arkansas combination.
@@MeowCat-gm5vb Wow. I never knew that. I think they did include a course India stone with my kit. I'll have to look again. Obviously, I don't get to it as often as I should. Thanks f or the info.
I think that soft Victorinox steel will give a toothy edge with a steel. A hard knife steel doesn’t give the same toothy edge with the sharpening steel. seems more slick to me.
I hate victorinox for work as a chef, I almost never steel my knives and when I do it's on ceramic. I keep a leather sheath over the ceramic rod and rub it down with polishing compound and use it as a strop more often than I ever use the ceramic. Victorinox needs to constantly be steeled though throughout an 8 hour shift whereas a Japanese gyuto with a Rockwell of about 60 I use will go the whole 8 hours and maybe need to be stropped once.
Hey Joe 🤘
Im the guy you were referring too on Instagram lol
I appreciate the kind words alot, im actually a knifemaker too so it means alot.
I was a professional chef for many years so being efficient with a knife is was a critical skill that we needed. Which to your point, efficiency with a knife(how your cutting) and the task (what your actually cutting) have very big impacts on edge retention.
Every single steel has the exact same edge retention when chopping rocks right?
Great series your doing here.
I was about to send it to you lol.
hi steve. i figured that you had to have spent alot of time on a cutting board to work like that. it was very cool to watch! thanks for posting that vid. and thanks for the kind words about this little series.
This series is so exciting to me. Every time I see an upload from you I come running Joe!!!!
i am glad that you are enjoying it!
I have seen YT videos on the mobile butchers, they make short order of very large animals. Lots to be learned from these professionals. Their experience is the most powerful tool for sure. They might not have the best steel in the blade but they can clean and straighten that edge well enough and easily enough, and then the expert execution fills in all the gaps. Not a wasted step or cutting motion when navigating their work. Efficient and proficient
they are pretty amazing to watch!
Loving all these videos!
Glad you like them!
Good video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Where do you get your materials from? Liners , tool steel, bolsters
jantz for misc stuff, pops for grinding belts, jantz and admiral for steel. local wood shops for most handle materials. amazon for sandpaper and other misc also.
Yes, great points. In another video, I heard you say something about 440 stainlness is not the funnest steel to sharpen. When I looked at my knives they are mostly 440 stainless. Maybe that's part of the reason I get so frustrated with my edges. I guess I should look into better steel. But it's all so mind boggling to me. PS: My main thing is I pack live stock in the woods. And my main concern is cutting ropes quick if a wreck situation occurs. But then my knives go through a lot of hard chores work too. Maybe I should have two, one for emergencies razor sharp and the other that can go a little dull for a while before sharpening.
my 440c is is easy to sharpen. it does take a little longer on natural stones like arks, but manmade waterstones like the king 1000/6000, norton crystolon, and diamonds work well.
440 stainless takes a little expalining. real 440c is a very good steel and can be heat treated to a pretty good range of hardness. mine is pretty hard, as in a file wont really cut it. i think some of the older buck knives were 440c at higher hardnesses before they started using softer steel. there were also 440a and 440b. and ive seen fairly low quality gas station class knives with the 440 mark on them.
with softer stainless knives like the 440, 420 and unmarked types, the dificulty in sharpening them is not so much getting a stone to cut it, but the burr that they form can be tough to remove as it will bend back and forth at about the same speed that it forms. so with that class of steel, a good way to sharpen it is to do the plateu method, where you destress the edgge by cutting into the side of the stone enough so that you can see light reflect along the entire cutting edge, then take a couple of strokes on each side, reducing the amount of light that you can see reflected offf the edge and repeat untill you dont see light anymore. this method lets you bring the edge just to sharp, without creating a burr. it works very well, but requires some patience, and good eyesight or optics and stong light.
@@joecalton1449 Dang, that's good stuff. Thanks. I'll reread this a couple times next time I'm sharpening. I have been using quality Arkansas stones with oil. But maybe I'll one of the man made stones like you said. When I'm ready to drop a few hundred bucks I'll give you a ring. Thank you. Quality beats quantity over and over again it seems.
@@scottc3165 if you have a couple of minutes or hours, you can google 440 stainless and ill bet someone has all the facts on the differences between all the grades of 400 series stainless steels.
i love arks, they are gorgeous stones, and leave a nice finish, and you can change the way they cut by how you surface them. but they are one of the slowest of the sharpening stones out there, right alongside the ceramices from what I have seen. it is really tough to beat the manmade crystolon, waterstones and diamonds for everyday sharpening.
Arkansas should be used when the knife is already sharp. It makes it even sharper. You cannot start with a dull knife with Arkansas, haha, only half joking ok.
That's why they include an India stone with those Arkansas combination.
@@MeowCat-gm5vb Wow. I never knew that. I think they did include a course India stone with my kit. I'll have to look again. Obviously, I don't get to it as often as I should. Thanks f or the info.
Most of my knives are not expensive. I keep them razor sharp. But I cut my veggies slowly. LOL 😅
i dont cut veggies very fast either.
I think that soft Victorinox steel will give a toothy edge with a steel. A hard knife steel doesn’t give the same toothy edge with the sharpening steel. seems more slick to me.
thats a good point. thanks
I hate victorinox for work as a chef, I almost never steel my knives and when I do it's on ceramic. I keep a leather sheath over the ceramic rod and rub it down with polishing compound and use it as a strop more often than I ever use the ceramic. Victorinox needs to constantly be steeled though throughout an 8 hour shift whereas a Japanese gyuto with a Rockwell of about 60 I use will go the whole 8 hours and maybe need to be stropped once.
Excellent info, thank you!
You bet!