I have a 2014 Tacoma with a 2.7 L engine. The pedal commander I bought is a throttle response device definitely gave me 4 miles per gallon extra on city mode and 1 gallon on sport mode. That alone was worth it.
Yes it does help out a lot I just got my 2020 Toyota tacoma. & cruise control really helps on road trips. I just wish every time in cruise control was more smoothly jumping from 65mph to 75 mph. Maybe I have to buy something at the Toyota dealership
I agree, I have a 2020 TRD PRO and get 22 mpg with a stock setup driving in warm weather. Work commute of 21 miles each way avg 45 mph and driving in S 5 engine rpm is about 1250, 35 psi tire pressure. This mpg is my avg weekly. In cold weather it drops to 19 mpg.
@@lucascoxe1481it’s a joke, don’t put diesel in a gasoline engine 😂 diesel is meant for diesel engines, different fuel systems and operating systems. Without getting too far into it, just don’t do it 😂
@@lucascoxe1481 Diesel will not burn properly in a gasoline engine, it requires higher heat and compression to ignite so it will probably burn in your exhaust if at all, if it is mixed it will run, but run poorly. Put even a little gasoline or DEF in a modern common rail diesel engine and you WILL destroy the injectors and injection pump, have to remove and clean the fuel tank and whole fuel system.
You don't need to throw out air filters every 3,000 miles. If its not fully dusted or wet just clean it and put it back. Commercial trucks generally have 2 stage air filters with a gauge that measures airflow restriction, the inner cannot be cleaned but may stay on for 500,000 miles depending on conditions. The outer needs regular cleaning but can last a very long time. An air filter is just a glued together pile of carboard cleats with mesh to hold it together. Clean it with air or smack it on a bench until you get the dust out.
If it's a Direct Injection engine, give 93 octane a try.. I get 15% better mileage with '93/ Probably doesn't pay for itself, but the Smoothness, and torque at Low RPM is significant. Give it a shot. Baby wants the good stuff and will reward you with smoothness you will appreciate. My 2024 KIA Carnival has 12.3 to 1 compression.. needs the good stuff.
@@RobsAutos well, often that will be enough for the ECU to open up and give it full timing. Mine runs OK on 87, but it feels a little "bumpy", like it's right on the edge of pinging (but doesn't).
@@markhall3434that’s why you need the best gasoline 93 Octane and your car won’t be so bumpy. You will see the difference when you fill up. And the tricky part is once you put the 93 Octane you must continue to always put 93 Octane…. I always put 93 Octane on both my Toyota cars
I average 22 mpg on back roads with some medium hills and intersections every 10 miles or so. Stock truck with tonneau and toyota running boards. I've seen it go down to 13 and as high as 36. Tonneau will add 1 mpg. Dump a little bottle of stp fuel system cleaner in every few months (they like $3). I WOULD NOT recommend ANY tune. These trucks went through toyota tune updates couple times in 2018-2020. They ALREADY ARE at ideal tune. The gear searching is about non-existent. When it does its the economy trying to decipher your pattern driving. The little it might still do, it's supposed too. It runs in basically economy mode. If you tune it, you risk warrantee, risk messing up your system, and will likely get LESS mpg. If you have lots of mods, then maybe you have to tune it because you basically added stress and weight to a truck set to run in economy mode. I'd still avoid it. Toyotas done this more than once to make it pretty much ideal. Best bet, DON'T mod it. ECT is basically tow/haul mode as called in other vehicles. Towing, haul ect. Changes shift points. Pretty simple. Merging, want a little more, put it in sport mode (s) and just leave it there. Dont manually shift it (though you could) just leave it in (s). My personal suggestion. DO NOT TUNE it. It's just changing shift points, response. Which the truck can do anyway. If you are running that big of wheels, that much weight you are worried about tune you've gone beyond a tune issues. You need lower gears installed in your differential. All these boards are. "Get a tune, get a tune, get a tune". You're truck has ALREADY been tuned. "Oh it's because of epa..." Blah blah. Actually, it isn't toyota covered this. Learn to use your ect, your sport mode. Learn to drive it in manual mode. There is options other than the tune. which really Toyota spent millions in development, and repeated it because of complaining. You really think the company you are getting this tune from knows more and spent as much in engineering as Toyota?
I’ll have to respectfully disagree with you, I talk about it more on the video I did regarding my CVC tune, but I gained 2-3 MPG by adding the CVC tune to my stock Tacoma. I do agree though if you care about warranty then it might not be a good idea. But the tune did do good things for my fuel economy wise.
@@RobsAutos i could see it if you had a 2018, 2019. Before Toyota did the updates. If you have a later model year, I'd highly suspect what you've actually done is untuned your truck. Its probably running like its in tow/haul mode but you think its great. It's your truck though. Have at it
@@RobsAutos okay i watched your tune video. I have a question. Why did your rpm hit near 7k? The power curve should be lining up lower than that from factory. Assuming they lowered your curve for more low end, it should be even lower. I think max horsepower peaks between 6000-6200. Your redline is at 6. Why is it pushing 7 k? The torque runs peak at like 4600. So your sweet spot for the factory shift shouldn't really be over 6k. Really closer to 5400. But I'm confused more as this is a 4x4 truck tune. You'll notice in etc it will run the gear out a little longer to get through to the sweet spot, least past the peak torque. In a truck tune. I would assume both of these variables would come down. But watching the vid it looked like you hit near 7k, past your red line (not a big deal) but it's not exactly a street tuner car its a truck. I'm a bit confused. Honestly. Why is it reving so far past it's points? Should go the other way around shouldn't it? Stay lower in rpm toward the torque side. Move the window down? I actually have a diagnostic machine (not a great one and half of it i dont understand anyway but you know) i planned on putting mine on just to see if i can shut off the annoying seat belt chime. I'll see if i can figure out what else is in there. I think the gen3 gave a lot more options and info with the new system but haven't actually looked. If you are going over that red line a lot and flirting around up there, and they see it (which they likely can) . Thats cause to void your power train warrantee. They'll know its been tuned anyway if they look, but the past the red line thing? I dunno? Tread carefully i guess.
Easiest way to make more hp and response without changing engine parts is timing. Pretty sure that’s 80% of the tune he’s talking about. That’s ok, and you will get more power and better economy, but you are pushing the engine past what engineers decided is a balance between performance and longevity. Advancing timing is harder on head gaskets, heads, pistons wrist pins and you rod bearings so you get one by giving up the other, so you can save some gas but you’ll likely lose 60k miles of engine life maybe more depending on how far they went. All old engine tuners know this it’s common knowledge.
I have a 2014 Tacoma with a 2.7 L engine. The pedal commander I bought is a throttle response device definitely gave me 4 miles per gallon extra on city mode and 1 gallon on sport mode. That alone was worth it.
I will add using the Adaptive Cruise Control helps a lot IMO.
I’ve noticed that, never seemed like it would help a lot until I tried using it and monitoring the mpg, big difference
Yes it does help out a lot I just got my 2020 Toyota tacoma. & cruise control really helps on road trips. I just wish every time in cruise control was more smoothly jumping from 65mph to 75 mph. Maybe I have to buy something at the Toyota dealership
I agree, I have a 2020 TRD PRO and get 22 mpg with a stock setup driving in warm weather. Work commute of 21 miles each way avg 45 mph and driving in S 5 engine rpm is about 1250, 35 psi tire pressure.
This mpg is my avg weekly. In cold weather it drops to 19 mpg.
Right there for me also 23’ DCLB 265/75r16 wilpeaks at3.
Where do I get the cvc tune?
What about the fuel filter?
You can get about 40mpg by putting diesel in it
Wouldn’t that destroy the engine over time?
@@lucascoxe1481it’s a joke, don’t put diesel in a gasoline engine 😂 diesel is meant for diesel engines, different fuel systems and operating systems. Without getting too far into it, just don’t do it 😂
@@lucascoxe1481 Diesel will not burn properly in a gasoline engine, it requires higher heat and compression to ignite so it will probably burn in your exhaust if at all, if it is mixed it will run, but run poorly.
Put even a little gasoline or DEF in a modern common rail diesel engine and you WILL destroy the injectors and injection pump, have to remove and clean the fuel tank and whole fuel system.
@@elliotkane4443 man i musta been crossfaded when i wrote this comment lmao im a whole mechanic💀
You won't get 40 feet if you fill it with diesel.
I wish we had the diesel out of the Hilux as an option, though. I presume that's what you meant?
You don't need to throw out air filters every 3,000 miles. If its not fully dusted or wet just clean it and put it back. Commercial trucks generally have 2 stage air filters with a gauge that measures airflow restriction, the inner cannot be cleaned but may stay on for 500,000 miles depending on conditions. The outer needs regular cleaning but can last a very long time.
An air filter is just a glued together pile of carboard cleats with mesh to hold it together. Clean it with air or smack it on a bench until you get the dust out.
Wry good video and info
Who makes the fuel cap holder?
IssyAuto. Look through my shorts, I did a quick install for it.
If it's a Direct Injection engine, give 93 octane a try.. I get 15% better mileage with '93/ Probably doesn't pay for itself, but the Smoothness, and torque at Low RPM is significant. Give it a shot. Baby wants the good stuff and will reward you with smoothness you will appreciate. My 2024 KIA Carnival has 12.3 to 1 compression.. needs the good stuff.
Making me sad 91 is all that’s around!
@@RobsAutos well, often that will be enough for the ECU to open up and give it full timing. Mine runs OK on 87, but it feels a little "bumpy", like it's right on the edge of pinging (but doesn't).
@@markhall3434that’s why you need the best gasoline 93 Octane and your car won’t be so bumpy. You will see the difference when you fill up. And the tricky part is once you put the 93 Octane you must continue to always put 93 Octane…. I always put 93 Octane on both my Toyota cars
Good one
I average 22 mpg on back roads with some medium hills and intersections every 10 miles or so. Stock truck with tonneau and toyota running boards. I've seen it go down to 13 and as high as 36.
Tonneau will add 1 mpg.
Dump a little bottle of stp fuel system cleaner in every few months (they like $3).
I WOULD NOT recommend ANY tune. These trucks went through toyota tune updates couple times in 2018-2020.
They ALREADY ARE at ideal tune. The gear searching is about non-existent. When it does its the economy trying to decipher your pattern driving. The little it might still do, it's supposed too. It runs in basically economy mode. If you tune it, you risk warrantee, risk messing up your system, and will likely get LESS mpg. If you have lots of mods, then maybe you have to tune it because you basically added stress and weight to a truck set to run in economy mode. I'd still avoid it. Toyotas done this more than once to make it pretty much ideal. Best bet, DON'T mod it.
ECT is basically tow/haul mode as called in other vehicles. Towing, haul ect. Changes shift points. Pretty simple. Merging, want a little more, put it in sport mode (s) and just leave it there. Dont manually shift it (though you could) just leave it in (s).
My personal suggestion. DO NOT TUNE it. It's just changing shift points, response. Which the truck can do anyway.
If you are running that big of wheels, that much weight you are worried about tune you've gone beyond a tune issues. You need lower gears installed in your differential.
All these boards are. "Get a tune, get a tune, get a tune".
You're truck has ALREADY been tuned.
"Oh it's because of epa..." Blah blah.
Actually, it isn't toyota covered this. Learn to use your ect, your sport mode. Learn to drive it in manual mode. There is options other than the tune. which really Toyota spent millions in development, and repeated it because of complaining. You really think the company you are getting this tune from knows more and spent as much in engineering as Toyota?
I’ll have to respectfully disagree with you, I talk about it more on the video I did regarding my CVC tune, but I gained 2-3 MPG by adding the CVC tune to my stock Tacoma.
I do agree though if you care about warranty then it might not be a good idea. But the tune did do good things for my fuel economy wise.
@@RobsAutos i could see it if you had a 2018, 2019. Before Toyota did the updates. If you have a later model year, I'd highly suspect what you've actually done is untuned your truck. Its probably running like its in tow/haul mode but you think its great.
It's your truck though. Have at it
@@RobsAutos okay i watched your tune video. I have a question. Why did your rpm hit near 7k?
The power curve should be lining up lower than that from factory. Assuming they lowered your curve for more low end, it should be even lower. I think max horsepower peaks between 6000-6200. Your redline is at 6. Why is it pushing 7 k?
The torque runs peak at like 4600. So your sweet spot for the factory shift shouldn't really be over 6k. Really closer to 5400.
But I'm confused more as this is a 4x4 truck tune.
You'll notice in etc it will run the gear out a little longer to get through to the sweet spot, least past the peak torque. In a truck tune. I would assume both of these variables would come down. But watching the vid it looked like you hit near 7k, past your red line (not a big deal) but it's not exactly a street tuner car its a truck.
I'm a bit confused. Honestly. Why is it reving so far past it's points? Should go the other way around shouldn't it? Stay lower in rpm toward the torque side. Move the window down?
I actually have a diagnostic machine (not a great one and half of it i dont understand anyway but you know) i planned on putting mine on just to see if i can shut off the annoying seat belt chime. I'll see if i can figure out what else is in there. I think the gen3 gave a lot more options and info with the new system but haven't actually looked.
If you are going over that red line a lot and flirting around up there, and they see it (which they likely can) . Thats cause to void your power train warrantee. They'll know its been tuned anyway if they look, but the past the red line thing? I dunno? Tread carefully i guess.
Easiest way to make more hp and response without changing engine parts is timing. Pretty sure that’s 80% of the tune he’s talking about.
That’s ok, and you will get more power and better economy, but you are pushing the engine past what engineers decided is a balance between performance and longevity.
Advancing timing is harder on head gaskets, heads, pistons wrist pins and you rod bearings so you get one by giving up the other, so you can save some gas but you’ll likely lose 60k miles of engine life maybe more depending on how far they went. All old engine tuners know this it’s common knowledge.
Guys with diesels push this harder cause of stronger engines but they also pay for it in either fuel or engines