Another interesting use of that slot on top of the camera. This is where a separate product called the Kodak instamatic movie light would slot into. Any chance you could do a video about this light?
Beautiful camera! Never would have thought that Super 8 film would come back! Thanks for the informative video. Let me know if you had the film processed and scanned, and how it looks!
@6:00 - I don't understand how does the framerate of the camera can tell you the shutter speed it is operating at? There are super8 cameras with 18fps and 24fps? Does it mean both framerates work in different shutter speed? p.s- Also, there's a shutter angle... so, it gets a bit confusing now...
Since this camera has only one frame rate, the shutter speed is a fixed 1/40 second. The camera has no automatic exposure so the shutter speed is given as a reference for using a light meter or exposure guide. If your camera has 24fps as well, the shutter speed will be faster, but not enough to make much difference when using a light meter. Older Regular 8mm and 16mm cameras could often shoot at frame rates from 8fps up to 64 fps. If you were using 8fps for example, the shutter speed would be about 1/20th so you could use that setting in the event you needed more light. However, the footage would look like fast-motion on a projector at that slow frame rate. It’s not an issue if you’re scanning your film to digital though. So just keep in mind how the shutter mechanism works and this will make perfect sense. Thanks for watching and I hope I have helped.
@@NewWorldFilm Thanks for your kind reply! While still being a bit confused of how framerate relates to shutter speed, I guess it's just dry specs of the camera. Maybe manufacturers deliberately programmed shutter speed to a framerate (Same like in videography/cinematography they say to shoot at a shutter speed that's double the framerate, meaning, 25fps = is coupled with shooting 1/50 shutter speed =25fpsx2). So, I wonder in the case of SUPER8 cameras like the Canon 814 Electronic AZ - which has a variable framerate, then what is the shutter speed of that camera @18fps @24fps and @40fps [=slowmotion]? If it's possible to know, then it's possible to manually meter with that camera [although I can never be sure to if switching to manual really works or not]
@@eladbariNo problem! One thing I totally forgot about was ISO. Super 8 cameras initially had the ISO locked in at whatever the film ISO/ASA was. So, frame rate and shutter speed were more sort of preset for the speeds of film available. It had to be something that would work with films from ISO 50 or so up to around 500. I suppose when cameras with variable shutter speeds came around, maybe it was so you could take more artistic liberties with the film or maybe had something to do with other production equipment. I honestly don’t know. What I do know is that since we have digital cameras with huge amounts of sensitivity now, shutter speed and frame rate are more adjustable. Of course, the final look of the video being filmed does still depend heavily on the chosen frame rate and shutter speed. I’m not an expert on any of this. My friend Mike @filmboy24 is much more knowledgeable about such things.
Mine’s not working and what’s worse, when I took off the battery casing a small gray/translucent piece of thin plastic with two little holes in it popped out. I tried to match the little holes to the golden “footing with the matching two little male bumps” but it won’t stay on. Any help? I’m happy to send pics.
I’m sorry to hear that. Unfortunately, I know little more than I shared in this video about these cameras. Most of these cameras are a hanging on by a thread if they work at all. Try gluing the piece back on, but it seems like there may be another problem. If you can’t get it working, it’s still the 1st Super 8 camera and will make a nice conversation piece. Thanks for watching!
@@NewWorldFilm I got it to work!! I held the play button ( shutter button technically) down and manually rotated the cylinder, watched the rod in the center drive the rest of the gears and then realized that a button cell battery holder was mislodged in in between two metal plates. Removed yet another corroded battery out, cleaned a bit more with baking soda and vinegar then put whole thing together again and wha-La! It works!
@@thecurioussquirrelreviews That’s awesome! Sorry I couldn’t have been more help. It’s good to learn that you got it working. Let it be an inspiration to all with broken cameras!
Remove the battery cover using a coin. Under the batteries you will find two screws. Remove these and then carefully remove the side. Just use a small amount of light oil on the metal parts. The plastic gears could be very brittle so I would avoid touching those.
Just got an M14 from a thrift store for dirt cheap and it looked like it was in amazing condition, but surprise surprise, it doesn’t start. Kind of a bummer, I’ll see if I can do some camera surgery and make it work again but I doubt it
I hope you can fix it! If not, there are certainly much better quality Super8 cameras to be had on eBay. An older Bell & Howell can be had very cheap and will likely work. Good luck!
@@NewWorldFilm i hope so too ! I tried to take a look inside but didn’t have time to figure out how to open it. Took out 4 screws and it looks like someone already messed with it, one screw has also clearly been replaced by another one that’s too short to screw into anything. At that point I feel like I can expect to find just about anything inside. If I can’t do anything I’ll definitely look into other cameras, I’m really eager to try one out !
I got the M4 which also gives out this harsh noise after a few seconds. But I’m not sure where EXACTLY does the white lithium grease goes or the oil. Plus this one has a Automatic only f stop which is controlled by a battery and I’m not sure how it’s supposed to go in the compartment or if my light sensor is even working!
I found that the main area to lube is the shaft of the electric motor and anywhere that a metal shaft passes through a bearing or bushing. The plastic gears probably don’t need much lube. Yes I avoided the ones with automatic exposure, fearing they might not work properly all these years later. The M12 is another one that has manual f stops so keep an eye out for that one.
@@NewWorldFilm ok! I oiled the points for the motor and the screeching is gone! I’m still not sure if the auto exposure is working so it’s a good bet I’ll only use outside during sunny days.
I don't really know myself since this is the only Instamatic I've ever used but that sounds familiar. Maybe I read the same thing on a blog or something. I think mine survived just because of the conditions it was previously stored in. I've decided not to use it much since it's in such good condition.
@@NewWorldFilm I’ve heard a lot of these Kodaks had a plastic gear that got brittle with age? Some people calling it a “cheese gear?” But it’s the XL-55 “our gang” type models.
If you have one in similar condition to mine, you might be able to sell it for between $50 and $100, but probably closer to $50. That’s based on what I’ve seen them go for on eBay.
I remember that it was tricky to line up the two sides. It required sliding them back and forth against each other until they aligned properly. Just do this carefully and eventually they should fit.
Another interesting use of that slot on top of the camera. This is where a separate product called the Kodak instamatic movie light would slot into.
Any chance you could do a video about this light?
I shot movies with one of these in Disneyland the Year this came out in 65
This is a well done video, and the camera is in great condition. Thanks!
Beautiful camera! Never would have thought that Super 8 film would come back! Thanks for the informative video. Let me know if you had the film processed and scanned, and how it looks!
Sure! I took the camera to a local drag racing track and made this video. ua-cam.com/video/ulzCDQC4Tyo/v-deo.html Thanks for watching!
@6:00 - I don't understand how does the framerate of the camera can tell you the shutter speed it is operating at?
There are super8 cameras with 18fps and 24fps? Does it mean both framerates work in different shutter speed?
p.s- Also, there's a shutter angle...
so, it gets a bit confusing now...
Since this camera has only one frame rate, the shutter speed is a fixed 1/40 second. The camera has no automatic exposure so the shutter speed is given as a reference for using a light meter or exposure guide. If your camera has 24fps as well, the shutter speed will be faster, but not enough to make much difference when using a light meter. Older Regular 8mm and 16mm cameras could often shoot at frame rates from 8fps up to 64 fps. If you were using 8fps for example, the shutter speed would be about 1/20th so you could use that setting in the event you needed more light. However, the footage would look like fast-motion on a projector at that slow frame rate. It’s not an issue if you’re scanning your film to digital though. So just keep in mind how the shutter mechanism works and this will make perfect sense. Thanks for watching and I hope I have helped.
@@NewWorldFilm Thanks for your kind reply!
While still being a bit confused of how framerate relates to shutter speed, I guess it's just dry specs of the camera. Maybe manufacturers deliberately programmed shutter speed to a framerate (Same like in videography/cinematography they say to shoot at a shutter speed that's double the framerate, meaning, 25fps = is coupled with shooting 1/50 shutter speed =25fpsx2). So, I wonder in the case of SUPER8 cameras like the Canon 814 Electronic AZ - which has a variable framerate, then what is the shutter speed of that camera @18fps @24fps and @40fps [=slowmotion]? If it's possible to know, then it's possible to manually meter with that camera [although I can never be sure to if switching to manual really works or not]
@@eladbariNo problem! One thing I totally forgot about was ISO. Super 8 cameras initially had the ISO locked in at whatever the film ISO/ASA was. So, frame rate and shutter speed were more sort of preset for the speeds of film available. It had to be something that would work with films from ISO 50 or so up to around 500. I suppose when cameras with variable shutter speeds came around, maybe it was so you could take more artistic liberties with the film or maybe had something to do with other production equipment. I honestly don’t know. What I do know is that since we have digital cameras with huge amounts of sensitivity now, shutter speed and frame rate are more adjustable. Of course, the final look of the video being filmed does still depend heavily on the chosen frame rate and shutter speed. I’m not an expert on any of this. My friend Mike @filmboy24 is much more knowledgeable about such things.
Mine’s not working and what’s worse, when I took off the battery casing a small gray/translucent piece of thin plastic with two little holes in it popped out. I tried to match the little holes to the golden “footing with the matching two little male bumps” but it won’t stay on. Any help? I’m happy to send pics.
I’m sorry to hear that. Unfortunately, I know little more than I shared in this video about these cameras. Most of these cameras are a hanging on by a thread if they work at all. Try gluing the piece back on, but it seems like there may be another problem. If you can’t get it working, it’s still the 1st Super 8 camera and will make a nice conversation piece. Thanks for watching!
@@NewWorldFilm I got it to work!! I held the play button ( shutter button technically) down and manually rotated the cylinder, watched the rod in the center drive the rest of the gears and then realized that a button cell battery holder was mislodged in in between two metal plates. Removed yet another corroded battery out, cleaned a bit more with baking soda and vinegar then put whole thing together again and wha-La! It works!
@@thecurioussquirrelreviews That’s awesome! Sorry I couldn’t have been more help. It’s good to learn that you got it working. Let it be an inspiration to all with broken cameras!
I have my Grandmothers. How do you take the side off to clean the internal
Remove the battery cover using a coin. Under the batteries you will find two screws. Remove these and then carefully remove the side. Just use a small amount of light oil on the metal parts. The plastic gears could be very brittle so I would avoid touching those.
Can you please send me the link of the Cartridge for that exact camera?
filmphotographystore.com/collections/movie-film/products/super-8-film-kodak-tri-x
Just got an M14 from a thrift store for dirt cheap and it looked like it was in amazing condition, but surprise surprise, it doesn’t start. Kind of a bummer, I’ll see if I can do some camera surgery and make it work again but I doubt it
I hope you can fix it! If not, there are certainly much better quality Super8 cameras to be had on eBay. An older Bell & Howell can be had very cheap and will likely work. Good luck!
@@NewWorldFilm i hope so too ! I tried to take a look inside but didn’t have time to figure out how to open it. Took out 4 screws and it looks like someone already messed with it, one screw has also clearly been replaced by another one that’s too short to screw into anything. At that point I feel like I can expect to find just about anything inside.
If I can’t do anything I’ll definitely look into other cameras, I’m really eager to try one out !
I got the M4 which also gives out this harsh noise after a few seconds. But I’m not sure where EXACTLY does the white lithium grease goes or the oil. Plus this one has a Automatic only f stop which is controlled by a battery and I’m not sure how it’s supposed to go in the compartment or if my light sensor is even working!
I found that the main area to lube is the shaft of the electric motor and anywhere that a metal shaft passes through a bearing or bushing. The plastic gears probably don’t need much lube. Yes I avoided the ones with automatic exposure, fearing they might not work properly all these years later. The M12 is another one that has manual f stops so keep an eye out for that one.
@@NewWorldFilm but I also heard once you get past the M6, that’s when build quality starts to become dubious and likely have disintegrating gears.
@@NewWorldFilm ok! I oiled the points for the motor and the screeching is gone! I’m still not sure if the auto exposure is working so it’s a good bet I’ll only use outside during sunny days.
Preserved in its original form!
I’ve heard the M2 and M4 had better survival rates than something like the M10?
I don't really know myself since this is the only Instamatic I've ever used but that sounds familiar. Maybe I read the same thing on a blog or something. I think mine survived just because of the conditions it was previously stored in. I've decided not to use it much since it's in such good condition.
@@NewWorldFilm I’ve heard a lot of these Kodaks had a plastic gear that got brittle with age? Some people calling it a “cheese gear?” But it’s the XL-55 “our gang” type models.
Are these with anything to collecters?
If you have one in similar condition to mine, you might be able to sell it for between $50 and $100, but probably closer to $50. That’s based on what I’ve seen them go for on eBay.
I was able to get the case off, but now I can't seem to get it back on. Have you got any ideas why this might have happened? Thanks so much
I remember that it was tricky to line up the two sides. It required sliding them back and forth against each other until they aligned properly. Just do this carefully and eventually they should fit.
es para coleccionista en mexico vale 2000 pesos mexicanos
Then I was lucky to buy it for much less than 2000 pesos!