thank you so much for this video! I thought I bought a bad module with a weak antenna, until i realized that it was the MISO/MOSI connection, who was responsible 70% of the transmissions failing. The trick with the ground wire twisting around mosi/miso cables did the job and now all my transmission suceed with 0% loss!
I have been fly radio controlled planes for 45 years. In the days of 72. MHz, we twisted the wire going to the reciver 5 twists per inch to avoide noise.
Hi, I want to thank you for your excellent video. After implementing your suggestions I managed to get the modules working just as I was about to throw them out! I have several students whose projects suffered as they could not get them to communicate. They are now about to become successful. Thank you again
Huh, here's my story. I was fixing it and fixing it, and Was unable to get it to work, not even the basic transmission, and kept trying everything, everyone's code, everyone's library, all lead to failure. I was stubborn and didn't want to give up on them. And then I finally decided to try and replace one of the modules with the 3RD one I had lying around, and wola! it worked. -I was struggling so hard, and didn't want to test the other module because I was kinda lazy and kept thinking that there is some interference in the wires, or that my Arduino 3.3V was insufficient so I ordered 3.3V linear stabilizers and the outcome was the same, then I tried wrapping the ground wire around the Miso, still nothing, not working.. and then for the last resort I swapped one of the modules, and luckily enough I swapped the broken one on the first try and the Transmission began, So let everyone know, if you're unable to get it to work, not even any transmission,and you checked everything, then perhaps you really have a faulty module, and it isn't the bypass capacitor nor the insufficient arduino 3.3 power supply.
WOW!!! I am coming very late to this video... so much in life the past two years! You did an INCREDIBLE job working out the bugs on the NRF24L01 module!!! Once you explained the noise between the module and control board was the issue, I kept thinking of solutions, and your video addressed every one of them! (I've been studying for my amateur radio license and have been perfecting my RF on RX and TX (Citizen's Band Radio,) so I was sure you'd be talking about transmissions! You know... THAT distance (30Km!!!) is HUGE! Even at 20, the power level is so low that operators don't need to get their amateur license (FCC not FAA lol) to be able to fly! I hope you can capitalize on the knowledge you've gained through this!! (I'm sorry, I haven't followed your feed for very long so far! So maybe you have!?) I have a professional background working on... [cannot share] ... shielded Class III electronic assemblies. Twisting those wires is a huge help, and I really like that you tried to create trace shielding with the board vias!! That was a great angle to experiment with! Shielding is your friend, and it's a real shame that the L01 was not configured with some isolation!! You worked through this incredibly well, and it really feels like you are a true innovator: thinking, trying, empirical observation, modifications and adjustment, more trials... and then SUCCESS! That takes a LOT of patience, and you ended up saving me COUNTLESS hours of frustration and troubleshooting!!! (Especially since I have very little confidence in my Arduino abilities at this point.) I changed my alerts to ALL for your channel, and you'll soon see me on your other feeds as well. Very, very excellent work!!! THANK YOU!!!
The problem with your noise errors is most likely because you are not using a good ground reference. So the signal couples with the power or other signal trace because that is the closest return path. If you grab your existing design make it 4 layers and add two ground planes on layer 2 and 3 so the SPI has a solid reference a lot of your issues will vanish. Also if you switch layers with a digital signal put a ground via close to where you change layers (near the signal via). Otherwise the signal loses its reference when you switch layers. Basically you want your reference plane to be the closest thing to any signal so that plane acts as the return path and not some other signal or power trace. Also its a good idea to include some RC filter on digital signals (33 Ohm and 330pF is usually fine for SPI stuff) . Best case is you dont need them and you can add a 0 Ohm resistor or a blob of solder. But if you have noise problems the RC filter can smooth out the edges.
Wow, this is a super valuable comment, thanks for laying down the deep RF knowledge @trip . RF issues like this, where you need to be an EE with deep experience to understand how to get anything to communicate, is why I stick to esp32s these days almost exclusively and use esp32-now or udp over wifi, it's less fuss. Bluetooth always comes up, but for prototyping and one-offs, BT is so disappointing, it's so complex and challenging that microcontroller board manufacturers w/ BT hardware can't even get it to work on their own products.
4 layers with a contiguous ground plane is excellent advice for any RF circuitry. One slight problem: these modules are sold as they are, on 2 layers. There is a mostly-solid ground plane below all the RF stuff, but on a 2-layer, it's 1.5 mm away - much farther than the second layer of a 4-layer would be. Don't know if this makes a difference, but it certainly should... Now, RC filters, picofarad caps: are you suggesting ordering PCBs (and stencils) and DIYing the modules from scratch just to make the damn chip work?..
Designing some PCB's for my hobby projects and after watching a few videos of Rick Hartley from altium and learned about signal return as transmission lines, decoupling capacitors, capacitors turning into inductors at higher frequency, the one solution for most of PCB problems come from having no ground plane and impedance mismatch Its like a hole new world when designing PCB's
Rookie here! The bleeding over outside of the traces is interesting. Inductance? Electrons travel parallel to the trace and run into each other? Whats up? :)
I used several pairs of these in an escape room. Most of my problems went away when I put caps directly on the board's power and ground pins. I got away with "hanging" the radio boards off of harnesses several inches long, with no apparent SPI problems, though I was likely just lucky there. These can be extremely frustrating, but once you get it all figured out, they're pretty reliable.
thanks bro, the video didn't really help me, but the idea behind it made me realize that the gndt wasn't connected, that's how I made it work, you're really magnificent
Andrei, I love this new video. Several years back I watched your video "Which radio module? NRF24, LoRa, CC1101, HC12, 433MHz, HC05" and thought it was a wonderful overview video of the common different radio modules to choose from. Ever since then any time someone asked about radio communications in the Arduino Facebook groups I'm a member of I recommend they come watch that video. My take-away from that video at the time had been to use an HC-12 module because of the troubles you mentioned with an NRF24 module and because I didn't think at the time that I had enough pins to use the NRF24 with my 6-axis robotic arm project. I've used the HC-12 module in several projects since then. I've generally made it work. But it is difficult because of the slower speed. I've started doing several projects using ESP32 Node MCUs using the built-in WiFi capability (no need for the internet - just using the WiFi hardware - this was before I heard about ESPNOW). Recently I came across a video "Arduino 10 Channels Wireless Transmitter Receiver | nrf24l01+| DIY" by the "hash include electronics" UA-cam channel which convinced me I could give the NRF24 a try. So, I bought some. It's on my to-experiment list (haven't tried them yet). Seeing this video gives me an even better understanding of the tricks of working with this module. I am very appreciative. Thank you for releasing this video of your experiences.
Another recommendation for spi board layout is to make sure you keep an uninterrupted ground pour on another layer, always be aware of return currents.
Im using SMPS power for nrf24s and it works beautifully. The advantage of it is, you can use the whole range of the battery from 4.2V down to 3V and the output will be stable 3.3V. SMPS automatically switching from stepdown to buck converter mode. I know you might think but it is a switching regulator, it just doesnt make any difference between LDO and SMPS. Just keep the inductor away from the module and everything will be fine.
Hi! Great video! Another NRF24 test video has surfaced. The results are impressive. I think the author has solved all the problems you mentioned. Video: NRF24L01+, NRF24L01+PA+LNA, E01-ML01DP5, E01-2G4M27D. Тест трансиверов. 250 Кбит, 1 Мбит, 2 Мбит
Don’t completely agree with your top3 here but it might help some people. So wrong about the 3.1V problem though! These work fine down to 2V - datasheet even says 1.8V but the clones need more. As long as the voltage is stable. However the power decoupling needs more than 0.1uF near the module. For many years I’ve used a combination of a MIC5504-3.3YM5 (300mA LDO) with 1uF in/out and a 10uF ceramic 0805 near the module and never had an issue. Relatively expensive for 10uF caps though but some bulk near the module is important - an electrolytic is fine if you have the space. 10uF will also let you use it with a CR2032 coin cell. Besides power, 9 out of 10 problems I’ve seen are misconfigurations. Always make sure both sides have identical data rate, payload length, autoack etc. on both modules and some clones have issues with DPL. Always make sure your SPI connection is ok by reading from the module. Third problem I’ve noticed is compatibility between clones - yes the solder blobs are usually incompatible - but you might also find issues between other clones. I certainly prefer a module where the chip says SI24R1 than one where it says NRF24L01+ but the price tells you it’s not genuine. Make sure you use two of the same clone.
Hi Could you help? I’m trying to create a network with 2 nodes, each with 1 Arduino Uno + nrf24l01(PA+LNA). I found that the nrf24 only works (transmitting) when I disconnect ground pin from the Arduino
I had the same problem but only with the separate antenna version. Set the software transmission power moderately lower, I have it on midium that works better. Make 1 central mass on a pcb. Put the battery voltage (+) as close as possible to the transmitter module with a capacitor of 0.1 uf directly from plus to minus. I work with only layers and have large ground surfaces in them. Where possible, also run thin mass tracks between the IC pins in the digital part. For RC control, the reach is more than enough.
How are you following my search history....? Yersterday I searched dronebot video for this module and today you are back with NRF24 video... I also watched your video but it was comparison between different wireless modules...
I was struggling with these modules, the integrated antenna version, and their own, proper, power supply modules. I wasn't getting any connection or communication. Finally, I managed to get things working by wiring the nrf24l01 directly to the arduino and removing the power supply modules completely.
Hi. I am building an Arduino RC car. I made the remote control myself with an Arduino Mega. For the car, I used an Arduino Uno. The two Arduinos communicate via two NRF24L01+ PA LNA modules. I use a voltage regulator for each module. The system was working normally. I was able to control a servo motor without any issues. But one day, I noticed that the signal was not stable. Shortly after, nothing worked. I tested the two modules to diagnose the problem. I found that each module initialized successfully, but there was no data transfer. Could the problem be related to the RF24 library? What are the possible solutions to fix this problem? Thank you in advance.
I am using nrf24 long range in transmitter. I am facing problem that the transmitter only works till i place my finger on the pins of nrf24 module if i remove finger it stops working and i am having 10 of these i am facing problems in all of the nrf24 modules please help me out
I tried to make a connection between my nRF24L01 modules. When I pressed the tactile switch on the transmitter side, the LED on the receiver side instantly turned on but when I released the switch the LED did not turned off at all (it turned off sometimes but it delayed by 5 seconds after I released the switch). What can I do?
Thanks. I have used nrf in a project but after 3 to 4 months it starts to loose its connectivity and I am forced to replace it with a new one. why this happens? Is the life span of the modules so low? or Is it me only who encountered this problem.
У меня также есть проблема. В коде необходимо при каждом завершении цикла loop выключать передачу, а при каждом начале заново включать. Без этого не работает.
Hi. Sorry my english... I have a NRF version with IPX antenna connector. I have tested with onboard antenna and work well. My question is: I read in one Ali vendor this about especific IPX model: "The module uses the onboard PCB antenna by default. The chip inductor is soldered to 1, 2 as shown in the figure. If you need to use the ipx carrier to pull out the external antenna, you can put the chip inductor to 1,3 as shown." Is necessary, if use a external antenna, change the solder in base of antenna pcb ? Thanks
Most of my problems with the NRF24 were solved by someone on the net (sorry, can't remember who) having great pages on why NEVER to POLL the STATUS during Tx/Rx. The transitions from the SPI really mess the signal quality. Instead, use the IRQ pin.
Another tip for noise reduction: don't leave any sensitive wires or connections next to USB data lines or even a USB cable. For whatever reason, USB is very noisy (it can be picked up if it is very close to an AM radio), and I have had several issues where USB was the culprit for noise (although not with mrf24).
this vid came in the right time i entered youtube to find if anybody had the same probleme as mine. basically i am trying to get it to work for more than 2m but it seems i can't, whenever i get further i lose the connection. by the way i did a cool drone controler using arduino mega and an LCD 480*320 module if you want i can send you the code maybe you can take a look into it and tell me if my problem is software not hardware.
One tip is to use CE=10, CSN=9. This is the only way to get the integrated Nano3 boards to work. This caused me endless frustration because all the examples have them the wrong way around.
I had my prototype working with two nRF24L01 modules. As you mentioned, they were pretty picky about my power source (USB power bank with a switching regulator to 3.3V) and worked reliably only when I added 470uF cap to the power supply and also 10uF directly onto the pins of the module. Also, I'm using a custom ACK logic in my because the built-in ACK can be unreliable on nRF24L01 clones (it told it received an ACK when it actually did not). Now I needed to miniaturize the transmitter to fit it into the small space of a third-party device. So I replaced my nRF24L01 with an SMD-sized module that I soldered directly onto Arduino Pro Mini. In general, it works but the packet retransmission rate (due to missing ACKs) is a lot higher causing bad latency. It seems the nRF24L01 does not like its antenna being so close to the Arduino's CPU. I'll have to experiment with the antenna or just ditch the idea of using the SMD.
Hi I have a question about nrf module with Ipex connector, do we need to desolder anything and solder it to another place to activate the antenna or the Ipex antenna is active by default alongside PCB an
mine even burned out my 3 nanos, the last one bricked success accepting sample radio transmission but ended up the rx led keep on and cannot be communicate with IDE anymore
Frustrating is not the word !!! I thought that bluetooth was fussy, but these are worse. I managed to get 2 working ?? using an arduino uno as remote and an Atmega88a on a breadboard as the receiver, BUT, if I let them sit a couple minutes, they loose each other. I have to either just power off the arduino and restart it to get it to connect again, Sometimes I have to power down both units for them to reconnect, Any ideas as to why they disconnect ? is there a sleep mode ? ALSO: they wont work at all if I use the line radio.setDataRate(RF24_250KBPS);
Hi, Sony smartwatch somehow could not communicate with Arduino IDE. If it won't be a problem for you, can you explain how you did it with a video? How the drivers are installed, I could not do it. Thank you.
Yo he dejado de usar estos módulos desde que descubrí que los esp32 tienen integrada la tecnología RF con la tecnología Espnow y los puedes conectar sencillamente. Yo ya no pierdo más tiempo con los Rf24
I had a ton of problems with this module until someone pointed out that you can drop the data rate on them. I'm using the arduino RF24 lib, and by going from the default ( #define RF24_SPI_SPEED 10000000) to half that, everything just magically started working for me.
@@edro1128he's talking about spi speed between the rf24 module and arduino board. The speeds you listed are the speeds for wireless transmission between rf24 modules.
It's not the data rate (the speed of the two nrf24l01s communicating with each other), it's the spi speed ( the speed in which the microcontroller is talking to the nrf24l01 module) it's in hertz the the default is 10 mghz or 10,000,000 hz
Omg THANK U VERY MUCH !! my modules (the amplified version) works fine with the jumper/test cables but fail miserably with my custom design pcb and 1 mm width and short traces! I found your solution very logic! My poor cheap pcb and noob design it's bad for 10 mhz ! I never think out that ! But slow down to 5 mhz and voila ! 👌👌
Awesome video, as usual. I'm amazed by the range (31Km) you were able to get out in the open field. The antenna you're using is a directional antenna. So how do you keep track of your drone when it's moving sideways ? If it gets out of the line of sight and Fresnel zone, you'll loose the signal very fast. How do you cope with that ?
thats why most long range or lora modules use lower frequency as it has much more penetration power, same is the case with what cellular networks upto (4g) use, as for 5g the frequency is very high and hence the range is lower and it needs multiple transmitters, maybe using multiple modules in diversity or quadversity config might solve this but implementing this is very tricky, instead using a lora or any other low frequency high power transmitter should solve this
@@ShahZahid Indeed, range and penetration are very much influenced by the frequency/power/modulation technique. I'm thinking of a direction antenna or a dish which is moterised on a stand, to track a drone which is BVLOS. Not that easy...
My number 1 fix is just noise reduction on the power line.... my NRFs work near perfect once the power lines are filtered. Even if the power line is clean, i find adding a cap reduces latency in the Tx time
when I was new to arduino I bought some of those chips to have some fun, and like those comments I got no luck. I think now it's time to reuse those chips. fortunately I didn't throw them away lol
what an entitled and rude comment, it takes an incredible amount of effort to research, film, share and promote any electronics themed video, just because you don't find some topics useful for you at any given time doesn't make them useless.
@@NabilTouchie no one seeks for ur opinion, i watch this guy for long time and i wish him as he used to be because i respect him and dont want him to make undervalued videos , i dont know when u mr intruder began to watch him or even know what i am talking about, he knows how to respond and i think he doesn't need smart-ass to act like a lawer or business manager to respond instead of him !
@@NabilTouchie i gave my comment to the content creater not for another commenter, so it not the same in (value)... No need for ur reply on my comment....
@@adelashour3253 indeed my comment is unnecessary and unwanted, maybe even uncomfortable and the same can be said of yours, but it helps to increase the engagement in a video of a content creator I like, so they are all at least a bit helful
I Hope someone could reach out in time :( I'm new to these modules and have been facing a lot of issues i have 3 arduino unos(2 for testing) and 3 nrfs, once an arduino + nrf24 pair works, all other pairs are unable to communicate with each other, while swapping the same modules with the arduino that established connection work well( all 3 modules working with the connected Arduino ) im just too tired to fix this and have no clue how to get this working
Nice informative video. However you did not mention that transmission fails if trying to send a big payload and the transmitted packets exxeeds 32 bytes. Solution is to divide the payloads on several packets.
These modules are highly sensative to noise and power. If you desire reliable operation, you MUST provide two decoupling caps. For whatever reason this is widely ignored, people continue to use none or one, and then complain that the problem they created is the fault of the radio. It also doesn't help that people common use addresses contrary to the data sheet's recommendations. Some libraries actively encourage this nonsense.
@@andyeash1730 10pF and minimum 47uF. This assumes the power is relatively clean. If a switching regulator is in use a scope may be required to clean the ripple.
yes, correct cap and addressing properly are biggest culprits.... a little surprised you didn't mention addressing... 2.4ghz network is used for so many household devices, its quite easy to have address conflicts, its a problem most will assume their device is toast and toss it I worth a mention, I think
brother , ive been struggling with these modules for years now , a few months back the modules were working absolutely fine,but now i really don't know what's wrong because it passes the inspection code , however doesn't work with a normal code
@@andyeash1730 it has some reference protocols as comments written above in the code , when u connect the spi and the Arduino , and connect Arduino with computer it gives u the stats of the module , when u tally stats with the protocols, it tells u what is out of place n if it is working.
I am using multiplexer IC cd4052 with one I2C LCD with two microcontrollers but there is garbage data on LCD screen does this digital IC has a noise problem how to solve this problem is it clk synchonication problem happen in Sda and scl pin Please 🙏 replay I trying to make combined arduino based component tester and frequency generator as i can't afford purchase new
James Bruton seems to also like this modules quite a bit. Would you also trust a multi-thousand dollar device to the stability of these modules? (For example, a full-size R2-D2)
I would. You can always implement safety features for lost signal and so on... Actually I always create lost signal function in my code just in case. And for not so long range, this module can work very well...
I lost few hours investigating LGT8F328P to NRF connection issues using a C library, until I noticed that LGT8T328P has different SPI library than Atmega328P
thank you so much for this video! I thought I bought a bad module with a weak antenna, until i realized that it was the MISO/MOSI connection, who was responsible 70% of the transmissions failing. The trick with the ground wire twisting around mosi/miso cables did the job and now all my transmission suceed with 0% loss!
I have been fly radio controlled planes for 45 years. In the days of 72. MHz, we twisted the wire going to the reciver 5 twists per inch to avoide noise.
Hi, I want to thank you for your excellent video. After implementing your suggestions I managed to get the modules working just as I was about to throw them out! I have several students whose projects suffered as they could not get them to communicate. They are now about to become successful. Thank you again
You nailed it! Perfect timing because I had a headache working with this modules last weak.
I had the same issues until I learned from your previous videos. Now you have all the info in one place! I greatly appreciate your effort!
This video is utterly brilliant, one of the most solid practical knowledge sharing ..... worth for a great appreciation!
Huh, here's my story. I was fixing it and fixing it, and Was unable to get it to work, not even the basic transmission, and kept trying everything, everyone's code, everyone's library, all lead to failure. I was stubborn and didn't want to give up on them. And then I finally decided to try and replace one of the modules with the 3RD one I had lying around, and wola! it worked.
-I was struggling so hard, and didn't want to test the other module because I was kinda lazy and kept thinking that there is some interference in the wires, or that my Arduino 3.3V was insufficient so I ordered 3.3V linear stabilizers and the outcome was the same, then I tried wrapping the ground wire around the Miso, still nothing, not working.. and then for the last resort I swapped one of the modules, and luckily enough I swapped the broken one on the first try and the Transmission began, So let everyone know, if you're unable to get it to work, not even any transmission,and you checked everything, then perhaps you really have a faulty module, and it isn't the bypass capacitor nor the insufficient arduino 3.3 power supply.
WOW!!! I am coming very late to this video... so much in life the past two years! You did an INCREDIBLE job working out the bugs on the NRF24L01 module!!! Once you explained the noise between the module and control board was the issue, I kept thinking of solutions, and your video addressed every one of them! (I've been studying for my amateur radio license and have been perfecting my RF on RX and TX (Citizen's Band Radio,) so I was sure you'd be talking about transmissions!
You know... THAT distance (30Km!!!) is HUGE! Even at 20, the power level is so low that operators don't need to get their amateur license (FCC not FAA lol) to be able to fly! I hope you can capitalize on the knowledge you've gained through this!! (I'm sorry, I haven't followed your feed for very long so far! So maybe you have!?)
I have a professional background working on... [cannot share] ... shielded Class III electronic assemblies. Twisting those wires is a huge help, and I really like that you tried to create trace shielding with the board vias!! That was a great angle to experiment with! Shielding is your friend, and it's a real shame that the L01 was not configured with some isolation!!
You worked through this incredibly well, and it really feels like you are a true innovator: thinking, trying, empirical observation, modifications and adjustment, more trials... and then SUCCESS! That takes a LOT of patience, and you ended up saving me COUNTLESS hours of frustration and troubleshooting!!! (Especially since I have very little confidence in my Arduino abilities at this point.)
I changed my alerts to ALL for your channel, and you'll soon see me on your other feeds as well.
Very, very excellent work!!! THANK YOU!!!
@@TediumGenius thanks so much for such an awesome comment! Really apreciate it :)
The problem with your noise errors is most likely because you are not using a good ground reference. So the signal couples with the power or other signal trace because that is the closest return path. If you grab your existing design make it 4 layers and add two ground planes on layer 2 and 3 so the SPI has a solid reference a lot of your issues will vanish. Also if you switch layers with a digital signal put a ground via close to where you change layers (near the signal via). Otherwise the signal loses its reference when you switch layers. Basically you want your reference plane to be the closest thing to any signal so that plane acts as the return path and not some other signal or power trace.
Also its a good idea to include some RC filter on digital signals (33 Ohm and 330pF is usually fine for SPI stuff) . Best case is you dont need them and you can add a 0 Ohm resistor or a blob of solder. But if you have noise problems the RC filter can smooth out the edges.
Wow, this is a super valuable comment, thanks for laying down the deep RF knowledge @trip . RF issues like this, where you need to be an EE with deep experience to understand how to get anything to communicate, is why I stick to esp32s these days almost exclusively and use esp32-now or udp over wifi, it's less fuss. Bluetooth always comes up, but for prototyping and one-offs, BT is so disappointing, it's so complex and challenging that microcontroller board manufacturers w/ BT hardware can't even get it to work on their own products.
Bro wrote entire essay
4 layers with a contiguous ground plane is excellent advice for any RF circuitry. One slight problem: these modules are sold as they are, on 2 layers. There is a mostly-solid ground plane below all the RF stuff, but on a 2-layer, it's 1.5 mm away - much farther than the second layer of a 4-layer would be. Don't know if this makes a difference, but it certainly should... Now, RC filters, picofarad caps: are you suggesting ordering PCBs (and stencils) and DIYing the modules from scratch just to make the damn chip work?..
Designing some PCB's for my hobby projects and after watching a few videos of Rick Hartley from altium and learned about signal return as transmission lines, decoupling capacitors, capacitors turning into inductors at higher frequency, the one solution for most of PCB problems come from having no ground plane and impedance mismatch
Its like a hole new world when designing PCB's
Rookie here! The bleeding over outside of the traces is interesting. Inductance? Electrons travel parallel to the trace and run into each other? Whats up? :)
I used several pairs of these in an escape room. Most of my problems went away when I put caps directly on the board's power and ground pins. I got away with "hanging" the radio boards off of harnesses several inches long, with no apparent SPI problems, though I was likely just lucky there. These can be extremely frustrating, but once you get it all figured out, they're pretty reliable.
thanks bro, the video didn't really help me, but the idea behind it made me realize that the gndt wasn't connected, that's how I made it work, you're really magnificent
Andrei,
I love this new video. Several years back I watched your video "Which radio module? NRF24, LoRa, CC1101, HC12, 433MHz, HC05" and thought it was a wonderful overview video of the common different radio modules to choose from. Ever since then any time someone asked about radio communications in the Arduino Facebook groups I'm a member of I recommend they come watch that video. My take-away from that video at the time had been to use an HC-12 module because of the troubles you mentioned with an NRF24 module and because I didn't think at the time that I had enough pins to use the NRF24 with my 6-axis robotic arm project. I've used the HC-12 module in several projects since then. I've generally made it work. But it is difficult because of the slower speed. I've started doing several projects using ESP32 Node MCUs using the built-in WiFi capability (no need for the internet - just using the WiFi hardware - this was before I heard about ESPNOW). Recently I came across a video "Arduino 10 Channels Wireless Transmitter Receiver | nrf24l01+| DIY" by the "hash include electronics" UA-cam channel which convinced me I could give the NRF24 a try. So, I bought some. It's on my to-experiment list (haven't tried them yet). Seeing this video gives me an even better understanding of the tricks of working with this module. I am very appreciative. Thank you for releasing this video of your experiences.
what was the issue with your modules ??
The power regulator and short wire with ground twisting solved my issue. Thank you so much.
Another recommendation for spi board layout is to make sure you keep an uninterrupted ground pour on another layer, always be aware of return currents.
Im using SMPS power for nrf24s and it works beautifully. The advantage of it is, you can use the whole range of the battery from 4.2V down to 3V and the output will be stable 3.3V. SMPS automatically switching from stepdown to buck converter mode.
I know you might think but it is a switching regulator, it just doesnt make any difference between LDO and SMPS. Just keep the inductor away from the module and everything will be fine.
Hi! Great video! Another NRF24 test video has surfaced. The results are impressive. I think the author has solved all the problems you mentioned. Video: NRF24L01+, NRF24L01+PA+LNA, E01-ML01DP5, E01-2G4M27D. Тест трансиверов. 250 Кбит, 1 Мбит, 2 Мбит
Don’t completely agree with your top3 here but it might help some people.
So wrong about the 3.1V problem though! These work fine down to 2V - datasheet even says 1.8V but the clones need more. As long as the voltage is stable.
However the power decoupling needs more than 0.1uF near the module. For many years I’ve used a combination of a MIC5504-3.3YM5 (300mA LDO) with 1uF in/out and a 10uF ceramic 0805 near the module and never had an issue. Relatively expensive for 10uF caps though but some bulk near the module is important - an electrolytic is fine if you have the space. 10uF will also let you use it with a CR2032 coin cell.
Besides power, 9 out of 10 problems I’ve seen are misconfigurations. Always make sure both sides have identical data rate, payload length, autoack etc. on both modules and some clones have issues with DPL. Always make sure your SPI connection is ok by reading from the module.
Third problem I’ve noticed is compatibility between clones - yes the solder blobs are usually incompatible - but you might also find issues between other clones. I certainly prefer a module where the chip says SI24R1 than one where it says NRF24L01+ but the price tells you it’s not genuine. Make sure you use two of the same clone.
3:50 SPI is very fast and sensible, lol. Thanks for the video!
Fyi, the module as sensible to their supply
@@takisbakalis I guess you mean sensitive?
Hi
Could you help?
I’m trying to create a network with 2 nodes, each with 1 Arduino Uno + nrf24l01(PA+LNA).
I found that the nrf24 only works (transmitting) when I disconnect ground pin from the Arduino
I had the same problem but only with the separate antenna version. Set the software transmission power moderately lower, I have it on midium that works better. Make 1 central mass on a pcb. Put the battery voltage (+) as close as possible to the transmitter module with a capacitor of 0.1 uf directly from plus to minus. I work with only layers and have large ground surfaces in them. Where possible, also run thin mass tracks between the IC pins in the digital part. For RC control, the reach is more than enough.
How are you following my search history....? Yersterday I searched dronebot video for this module and today you are back with NRF24 video... I also watched your video but it was comparison between different wireless modules...
Hahahaha :)
Thanks, struggled for four hours then saw your video. Really helped me
Thanks
I was struggling with these modules, the integrated antenna version, and their own, proper, power supply modules. I wasn't getting any connection or communication. Finally, I managed to get things working by wiring the nrf24l01 directly to the arduino and removing the power supply modules completely.
Hi. I am building an Arduino RC car. I made the remote control myself with an Arduino Mega. For the car, I used an Arduino Uno. The two Arduinos communicate via two NRF24L01+ PA LNA modules. I use a voltage regulator for each module.
The system was working normally. I was able to control a servo motor without any issues. But one day, I noticed that the signal was not stable. Shortly after, nothing worked. I tested the two modules to diagnose the problem. I found that each module initialized successfully, but there was no data transfer. Could the problem be related to the RF24 library?
What are the possible solutions to fix this problem?
Thank you in advance.
I am using nrf24 long range in transmitter.
I am facing problem that the transmitter only works till i place my finger on the pins of nrf24 module if i remove finger it stops working and i am having 10 of these i am facing problems in all of the nrf24 modules please help me out
The video is great
But I've heard that lots of them come DOA. is there a way to check if they are broadcasting?
As I say: Electronoobs has many great tutorial. Thanks
I tried to make a connection between my nRF24L01 modules. When I pressed the tactile switch on the transmitter side, the LED on the receiver side instantly turned on but when I released the switch the LED did not turned off at all (it turned off sometimes but it delayed by 5 seconds after I released the switch). What can I do?
Boy you make high quality learning content.these informations can be very useful
Thanks. I have used nrf in a project but after 3 to 4 months it starts to loose its connectivity and I am forced to replace it with a new one. why this happens? Is the life span of the modules so low? or Is it me only who encountered this problem.
У меня также есть проблема. В коде необходимо при каждом завершении цикла loop выключать передачу, а при каждом начале заново включать. Без этого не работает.
Hi. Sorry my english... I have a NRF version with IPX antenna connector. I have tested with onboard antenna and work well. My question is: I read in one Ali vendor this about especific IPX model:
"The module uses the onboard PCB antenna by default. The chip inductor is soldered to 1, 2 as shown in the figure. If you need to use the ipx carrier to pull out the external antenna, you can put the chip inductor to 1,3 as shown." Is necessary, if use a external antenna, change the solder in base of antenna pcb ?
Thanks
For getting long range what dat speed rate should I keep
Most of my problems with the NRF24 were solved by someone on the net (sorry, can't remember who) having great pages on why NEVER to POLL the STATUS during Tx/Rx. The transitions from the SPI really mess the signal quality. Instead, use the IRQ pin.
Another tip for noise reduction: don't leave any sensitive wires or connections next to USB data lines or even a USB cable. For whatever reason, USB is very noisy (it can be picked up if it is very close to an AM radio), and I have had several issues where USB was the culprit for noise (although not with mrf24).
Oh, thanks for the tip!!! :)
Is it useful to add those capacitors even between pins of a larger NRF24 module with that big shielding on the PCB? Thank you
this vid came in the right time i entered youtube to find if anybody had the same probleme as mine. basically i am trying to get it to work for more than 2m but it seems i can't, whenever i get further i lose the connection. by the way i did a cool drone controler using arduino mega and an LCD 480*320 module if you want i can send you the code maybe you can take a look into it and tell me if my problem is software not hardware.
One tip is to use CE=10, CSN=9. This is the only way to get the integrated Nano3 boards to work. This caused me endless frustration because all the examples have them the wrong way around.
I had my prototype working with two nRF24L01 modules. As you mentioned, they were pretty picky about my power source (USB power bank with a switching regulator to 3.3V) and worked reliably only when I added 470uF cap to the power supply and also 10uF directly onto the pins of the module. Also, I'm using a custom ACK logic in my because the built-in ACK can be unreliable on nRF24L01 clones (it told it received an ACK when it actually did not).
Now I needed to miniaturize the transmitter to fit it into the small space of a third-party device. So I replaced my nRF24L01 with an SMD-sized module that I soldered directly onto Arduino Pro Mini. In general, it works but the packet retransmission rate (due to missing ACKs) is a lot higher causing bad latency. It seems the nRF24L01 does not like its antenna being so close to the Arduino's CPU. I'll have to experiment with the antenna or just ditch the idea of using the SMD.
May i know why some antenna is not working same spec only length oft spec will xaris
Watch out, with Teensy microcontrollers, you might have to change the SPI transmission speed directly in the SPI.h library
Hi
I have a question about nrf module with Ipex connector, do we need to desolder anything and solder it to another place to activate the antenna or the Ipex antenna is active by default alongside PCB an
Have you tried to apply a pull-up on the MISO and MOSI lines?
mine even burned out my 3 nanos, the last one bricked success accepting sample radio transmission but ended up the rx led keep on and cannot be communicate with IDE anymore
Thanks a lot for the video you saved me a lot of time, I can't express how grateful I'm
Frustrating is not the word !!! I thought that bluetooth was fussy, but these are worse. I managed to get 2 working ?? using an arduino uno as remote and an Atmega88a on a breadboard as the receiver, BUT, if I let them sit a couple minutes, they loose each other. I have to either just power off the arduino and restart it to get it to connect again, Sometimes I have to power down both units for them to reconnect, Any ideas as to why they disconnect ? is there a sleep mode ?
ALSO: they wont work at all if I use the line radio.setDataRate(RF24_250KBPS);
Any success? I'm having the same problem.
FYI, I've heard some clones boards don't work at 250kbps.
for power is it possible to use boost converter combine with ams117?
Good twisted cables can be disassembled from LAN cables i.e. CAT4 5 6 cables, already twisted pairs.
Very well explained in a short time, thanks.
Hi,
Sony smartwatch somehow could not communicate with Arduino IDE. If it won't be a problem for you, can you explain how you did it with a video?
How the drivers are installed, I could not do it.
Thank you.
So a step down power supply is not recommended to reduce to 3.3v?
Yo he dejado de usar estos módulos desde que descubrí que los esp32 tienen integrada la tecnología RF con la tecnología Espnow y los puedes conectar sencillamente. Yo ya no pierdo más tiempo con los Rf24
4:58 that saved my day, thanks
Thanks! Can you made the same video about Lora EBYTE UART modules?
Wow, a treasure trove of experience! Thanks!
I had a ton of problems with this module until someone pointed out that you can drop the data rate on them. I'm using the arduino RF24 lib, and by going from the default (
#define RF24_SPI_SPEED 10000000) to half that, everything just magically started working for me.
what? but the NRF24 data rate is 250KPBS or 1MPBS or 2MBPS... how it is now 10000000? or 5000000 as you say??
@@edro1128he's talking about spi speed between the rf24 module and arduino board. The speeds you listed are the speeds for wireless transmission between rf24 modules.
It's not the data rate (the speed of the two nrf24l01s communicating with each other), it's the spi speed ( the speed in which the microcontroller is talking to the nrf24l01 module) it's in hertz the the default is 10 mghz or 10,000,000 hz
Omg THANK U VERY MUCH !! my modules (the amplified version) works fine with the jumper/test cables but fail miserably with my custom design pcb and 1 mm width and short traces! I found your solution very logic! My poor cheap pcb and noob design it's bad for 10 mhz ! I never think out that ! But slow down to 5 mhz and voila ! 👌👌
Awesome video, as usual. I'm amazed by the range (31Km) you were able to get out in the open field. The antenna you're using is a directional antenna. So how do you keep track of your drone when it's moving sideways ? If it gets out of the line of sight and Fresnel zone, you'll loose the signal very fast. How do you cope with that ?
For drones then directional one is not recommended!
@@ELECTRONOOBS Yes, that's what I was thinking. However... a motorised tracking antenna could do the trick... maybe an idea for a future video ?
thats why most long range or lora modules use lower frequency as it has much more penetration power, same is the case with what cellular networks upto (4g) use, as for 5g the frequency is very high and hence the range is lower and it needs multiple transmitters, maybe using multiple modules in diversity or quadversity config might solve this but implementing this is very tricky, instead using a lora or any other low frequency high power transmitter should solve this
@@ShahZahid Indeed, range and penetration are very much influenced by the frequency/power/modulation technique. I'm thinking of a direction antenna or a dish which is moterised on a stand, to track a drone which is BVLOS. Not that easy...
My number 1 fix is just noise reduction on the power line.... my NRFs work near perfect once the power lines are filtered. Even if the power line is clean, i find adding a cap reduces latency in the Tx time
Hello I loved your project that you used NRF with stm32 ,
Thar is any update about your project
NRF24 module: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9z5uOv
My Tools: bit.ly/3uv8bc3
Help me on Patreon: www.patreon.com/ELECTRONOOBS
I tried several times to get it working. Finally found solution:
Solder 10 micro farad capacitor across VCC and GND
when I was new to arduino I bought some of those chips to have some fun, and like those comments I got no luck. I think now it's time to reuse those chips. fortunately I didn't throw them away lol
after long time of useless videos ,this video today is useful like your old days, keep on like this....thanx
what an entitled and rude comment, it takes an incredible amount of effort to research, film, share and promote any electronics themed video, just because you don't find some topics useful for you at any given time doesn't make them useless.
@@NabilTouchie no one seeks for ur opinion, i watch this guy for long time and i wish him as he used to be because i respect him and dont want him to make undervalued videos , i dont know when u mr intruder began to watch him or even know what i am talking about, he knows how to respond and i think he doesn't need smart-ass to act like a lawer or business manager to respond instead of him !
@@adelashour3253 what you said about my opinion can be said about yours as well that's why It's important to have both.
@@NabilTouchie i gave my comment to the content creater not for another commenter, so it not the same in (value)... No need for ur reply on my comment....
@@adelashour3253 indeed my comment is unnecessary and unwanted, maybe even uncomfortable and the same can be said of yours, but it helps to increase the engagement in a video of a content creator I like, so they are all at least a bit helful
I Hope someone could reach out in time :(
I'm new to these modules and have been facing a lot of issues
i have 3 arduino unos(2 for testing) and 3 nrfs, once an arduino + nrf24 pair works, all other pairs are unable to communicate with each other, while swapping the same modules with the arduino that established connection work well( all 3 modules working with the connected Arduino )
im just too tired to fix this and have no clue how to get this working
Hi ! Did u solve the problem ?
Not using a breadboard is the biggest difference. I finally have mine working after weeks
So you're telling me it's a bad idea to slap one of these on the end of a 15ft cable that is often going to be partially or fully wound on a spool?
5:10 - Twisted pair cabling. This is how STP cables (commonly ethernet) does it.
may be you will share the small PCB of the receiver which you showed one year ago ... in the STM32 Radio Controller
Is uart , sensibale as spi ?
I am doing firmware dumping project !
Do you have video that teach Bi-Directional communication for NRF24?
Bro can this module give unrequred operatins due to other radio wave like fm or other this types radio remotes
Nice informative video. However you did not mention that transmission fails if trying to send a big payload and the transmitted packets exxeeds 32 bytes. Solution is to divide the payloads on several packets.
I can say this is the best video I've seen today
Nothing worked for me. My nrf24 is working fine with uno but not with nano. Someone please help
These modules are highly sensative to noise and power. If you desire reliable operation, you MUST provide two decoupling caps. For whatever reason this is widely ignored, people continue to use none or one, and then complain that the problem they created is the fault of the radio. It also doesn't help that people common use addresses contrary to the data sheet's recommendations. Some libraries actively encourage this nonsense.
What cap values do you use?
@@andyeash1730 10pF and minimum 47uF. This assumes the power is relatively clean. If a switching regulator is in use a scope may be required to clean the ripple.
yes, correct cap and addressing properly are biggest culprits.... a little surprised you didn't mention addressing... 2.4ghz network is used for so many household devices, its quite easy to have address conflicts, its a problem most will assume their device is toast and toss it I worth a mention, I think
Yes, thank you for mentioning that :)
You are amazing... I wish u the success u deserve bro... Love from India ♥
brother , ive been struggling with these modules for years now , a few months back the modules were working absolutely fine,but now i really don't know what's wrong because it passes the inspection code , however doesn't work with a normal code
What inspection code are you using? Does it simply test the spi connection?
@@andyeash1730 it has some reference protocols as comments written above in the code , when u connect the spi and the Arduino , and connect Arduino with computer it gives u the stats of the module , when u tally stats with the protocols, it tells u what is out of place n if it is working.
I am using multiplexer IC cd4052 with one I2C LCD with two microcontrollers but there is garbage data on LCD screen does this digital IC has a noise problem how to solve this problem
is it clk synchonication problem happen in Sda and scl pin
Please 🙏 replay
I trying to make combined arduino based component tester and frequency generator as i can't afford purchase new
James Bruton seems to also like this modules quite a bit. Would you also trust a multi-thousand dollar device to the stability of these modules? (For example, a full-size R2-D2)
I would. You can always implement safety features for lost signal and so on... Actually I always create lost signal function in my code just in case. And for not so long range, this module can work very well...
Has anyone got a llcc68 ebyte 915MHz to transmit? I got the spi communicating, but transmit never works (verified with sdr)
Hey, where did you get your lipo batteries (especially the blue one 7.4 volts)
Always from AliExpress
Transmitter and receiver pcb mi 10tr 10rc complaint 🙄 please sar
Thanks for this vid. I always had problems with it.
I've lost many hours of my life to these modules...
Bro I just spent the entire day trying to get this work
Literally as soon as I woke up to rn 8:14pm
@@Zhisaokai have been trying to make a controller with that module like 6 days and i will f*ck everybody
Same here 😂
uss
Thank you dear i have been waiting for a long time
I like these troubleshooting/tips videos
Nice video , is the data transfer fast enough to carry voice communication ?
yea there is a library for it, great scott tried it
Yes, actually I will make a Walkie Talkie video with this modules soon!
Masalah yg timbul pada radio kontrol arduino saya ...motir hidup terus dan joystick tidak berfungsi
I can't see the code in your link
I lost few hours investigating LGT8F328P to NRF connection issues using a C library, until I noticed that LGT8T328P has different SPI library than Atmega328P
How expensive was it to build your own quadcopter? Could you add a link in the description to your RC Quadcopter series?
Now days is not that expensive, especially if you use clone parts from China :))??
Thank you. It was insightful
Could you advise me a radio module for drone with very good range of about 3km?
for a complete product, the TBS crossfire or the Frsky R9M should so the trick, but if you want to diy try using a lora module with a signal amplifier
@@ShahZahid the problem with Lora is the high latency
@@ShahZahid i would try frsky
Great tips! Can you recommend a decent supplier of this module?
I always get them from AliExpress so I don't know any other supplier. Sorry...
Please talk about how to add a barometric sensor to an Arduino drone please 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Wow i serio8usly needed this info super a lot thx so much
Did you tried ESP Now on a esp8266 board?
Helpful video 👍
Top demais , sou muito leigo , e aprendi demais.
спасибо. полезная информация.