Might have to "blend" the "popup" a bit to not mess up the scavenge , I do. Not sure it matters. And two rings also gives more drag and u loose a tiny bit of throttle response, and old trick on 372's ( oe's ) was to use the single ring 371 along with lighter flywheel to increase throttle response. :)
I've used a bunch of the LRB pistons as well and haven't had any issues, like you said they are softer and scratch easily but that's it so far, haven't had a failure on one of them yet, I'm using a lot of their poulan pistons and all have been issue free so far.
Ironhorse mentioned heating pistons at 450 for four hours and then flash cooling in a bucket of water to make pistons last longer. He explains all about it in a vid how it works. Seems worth trying to me. I will be trying it soon. Thanks for comparing the LRB pop up to stock. Maybe a LRB vs Dukes pop up sometime too. :)
I put a LRB popup in my 288 more as an experiment. It needed some grinding to smooth up casting and open the windows some. But so far it seems to be holding up well and it definitely added some compression.
I noticed that too much compression past a certain point reduces peak power alot. It's definitely something that's worth experimenting, case by case. For some saws it might work, for others it might lower their performance.
On the LRB piston you could heat treat it. And it will last as long as stock one. As long as could heat out of the cylinder with good muffler system. Higher compression high the heat value is
thanks for the video. Not the same? : Put the piston and cylinder back on, bring the piston up to TDC, then measure the volume of the compression area: STEP ONE: Put some low viscosity oil in a cup, about 75ml, and record the weight of the cup, oil, and pipette. flip the saw so that the spark plug hole faces up. Fill the compression area with oil (no air bubbles allowed), calculate the weight of oil used to fill the void. STEP TWO: repeat with the other piston. Calculate the difference in weight, multiply the difference by the specific gravity of the oil, and that will yield the ml of displacement. Now you have the volume of the compression area. Once that is known, you have your answer.
Awesome video... I have little red barn pop up for my ms460 clone. Haven't torn it down to compare yet, and I was wondering the same thing! And .... 😁 thanks by the way 🙏 ☺️
We weld the top of our pistons to make out pop up pistons , those piston you buy in a box are ok but I'd rather make my own so I know it's a true pop up , my 2171 has a piston that I designed and had made it make about 200 lbs of compression and that saw makes 7.5 hp
I've been running my modified 590 with that exact LRB piston, changed out from the stock flat single ring piston, added the bigger carb and unlimited coil, and has a gutted piped muffler, she's a little torque monster, not quite a 620 but close. I've been using it regularly in a work environment for over a year at this point, downed a pecan yesterday. I'd love to have it ported by you whatever you charge, if you see this that is.
From what I've seen with the little red barn pistons is they take a few more good heat cycles to temper up. After that they're good to go. The problem is the guy that puts one in,and goes straight out a cutting. They will not do that.
I got 2 lilred in my Saws , both are real Popups. 545 Mk1 and 372 since last week. Piston Wristpinclips-grooves were to deep at the 545 popup so clips did not hold the Pistonbolt . C shape Rings . The 372 Piston was fine all the way.
I put a red barn on a 390xp I built and it runs way better than the one that came in the hyway kit. 125psi with hyway .021 squish 150psi red barn .017 squish ooh I put saber ring on the red barn
Have you weighed the two pistons compared to each other? Skirt looks mighty thick on the aftermarket piston. Not sure how piston weight affects these builds but it will be noce to know! -Dave
Piston weights affect the build a good bit. A few grams at 10k rpm stopping and changing directions weights hundreds of pounds. But there is also some give and take tho. More compression from a heavier piston may be worth it for the build.
i have buy pop up on my 361 and the ring broke after 4 tank of gaz the rings are very bad quality for me and thicker than stock have a bad casting material . I have try but i'm disapointed of the quality ... buy meteor or oem only guys ...
not worth doing this if your top end is already broken in. even then u would be better off having the base of cylinder taken down so u have a known size squish band. deleting base gaskets is a bad idea. actually the only proven mods to do to the 590 are a muff. mod. and remove limiter caps. i would not even recommend blocking off bypass on high speed nozzle. my saw did not like it that much. better off just turning high speed needle in damn near all the way. i admire your tenacity but.............
DO NOT BUY pistons from lil red barn. I orderd some oversized pistons for my kohler ch20 and one of the pistons was defective. Contacted lil red barn countless times and they're ghosting me. Terrible service and very disappointed. Go elsewhere!!!
@@novicelumberjack I put the the piston in a standard house oven for 3 1/2 hours at 375F. Be very careful wile moving the hot piston not to drop it. Then I warm up engine oil any will work to 100degrees and dip the piston in the oil rite out of the oven. Then I hang cool them to room temp. I would recommend taking a trashed piston and getting used to this process before attempting it on something brand new. Be sure to do a scratch test on the inside of the piston. You should Feel the difference. I have heard of others using engine oil at 450F and soaking pistons for 5 hours also but have not tryed this method. Hope this helps. There is lots of great explanations on google
I think dropping in water is better . Unused motor oil won’t quench any thing. Not to start a argument but from a metallurgical stand point the lunch table would spit out there soda if you said engine oil as a quench. Engine oil Viscosity could be 100-0 so it means nothing
Might have to "blend" the "popup" a bit to not mess up the scavenge , I do. Not sure it matters. And two rings also gives more drag and u loose a tiny bit of throttle response, and old trick on 372's ( oe's ) was to use the single ring 371 along with lighter flywheel to increase throttle response. :)
Could we just use one Ring on a 2 Ring Piston?
I installed the pop-up last night and got first start couple tanks this weekend
I've used a bunch of the LRB pistons as well and haven't had any issues, like you said they are softer and scratch easily but that's it so far, haven't had a failure on one of them yet, I'm using a lot of their poulan pistons and all have been issue free so far.
Ironhorse mentioned heating pistons at 450 for four hours and then flash cooling in a bucket of water to make pistons last longer. He explains all about it in a vid how it works. Seems worth trying to me. I will be trying it soon. Thanks for comparing the LRB pop up to stock. Maybe a LRB vs Dukes pop up sometime too. :)
I put a LRB popup in my 288 more as an experiment. It needed some grinding to smooth up casting and open the windows some. But so far it seems to be holding up well and it definitely added some compression.
I noticed that too much compression past a certain point reduces peak power alot. It's definitely something that's worth experimenting, case by case. For some saws it might work, for others it might lower their performance.
On the LRB piston you could heat treat it. And it will last as long as stock one. As long as could heat out of the cylinder with good muffler system. Higher compression high the heat value is
thanks for the video. Not the same? : Put the piston and cylinder back on, bring the piston up to TDC, then measure the volume of the compression area: STEP ONE: Put some low viscosity oil in a cup, about 75ml, and record the weight of the cup, oil, and pipette. flip the saw so that the spark plug hole faces up. Fill the compression area with oil (no air bubbles allowed), calculate the weight of oil used to fill the void. STEP TWO: repeat with the other piston. Calculate the difference in weight, multiply the difference by the specific gravity of the oil, and that will yield the ml of displacement. Now you have the volume of the compression area. Once that is known, you have your answer.
There is a lot easier way of doing that rather than all the oil filled cylinder stuff you speak of.
Sounds like a fun project trying to see what can be had from a 590.
Now you've got me all excited😅 I've heard some of the little red barn stories but have no personal experience with them yet.
Awesome video... I have little red barn pop up for my ms460 clone. Haven't torn it down to compare yet, and I was wondering the same thing!
And ....
😁 thanks by the way 🙏 ☺️
We weld the top of our pistons to make out pop up pistons , those piston you buy in a box are ok but I'd rather make my own so I know it's a true pop up , my 2171 has a piston that I designed and had made it make about 200 lbs of compression and that saw makes 7.5 hp
lil barn got it right, I use the brand on Husqvarna 55 and it's hammering no problems so far
I am very interested to see what the little red barn pop-up piston does for the 620.
I never knew Blake Shelton was into saws!!!!!!
Ha ha I just had to. Great vid, like all your content I've seen 👍🏻👍🏻
Looks like an interesting add-on. I'd like to see how it goes.
I've been running my modified 590 with that exact LRB piston, changed out from the stock flat single ring piston, added the bigger carb and unlimited coil, and has a gutted piped muffler, she's a little torque monster, not quite a 620 but close. I've been using it regularly in a work environment for over a year at this point, downed a pecan yesterday. I'd love to have it ported by you whatever you charge, if you see this that is.
From what I've seen with the little red barn pistons is they take a few more good heat cycles to temper up. After that they're good to go. The problem is the guy that puts one in,and goes straight out a cutting. They will not do that.
Run your timing numbers with it. with it having a shorter skirt they will be different, combined with the 590 having slightly different port timing.
I got 2 lilred in my Saws , both are real Popups. 545 Mk1 and 372 since last week. Piston Wristpinclips-grooves were to deep at the 545 popup so clips did not hold the Pistonbolt . C shape Rings . The 372 Piston was fine all the way.
Hoping it's not a dumb question... What oil and how much oil goes in the crankcase after position replacement?
I put a red barn on a 390xp I built and it runs way better than the one that came in the hyway kit. 125psi with hyway .021 squish 150psi red barn .017 squish ooh I put saber ring on the red barn
If I go to a 54mm big bore kit from a 50mm would I notice I big difference
Do you have to replace cylinder wall when replacing piston?
Man.. I wish they made them out of better material that's GREAT for those of us without a lathe.
Have you weighed the two pistons compared to each other? Skirt looks mighty thick on the aftermarket piston. Not sure how piston weight affects these builds but it will be noce to know! -Dave
Piston weights affect the build a good bit. A few grams at 10k rpm stopping and changing directions weights hundreds of pounds. But there is also some give and take tho. More compression from a heavier piston may be worth it for the build.
Anyone making a popup for the echo 7310 yet?
i have buy pop up on my 361 and the ring broke after 4 tank of gaz the rings are very bad quality for me and thicker than stock have a bad casting material . I have try but i'm disapointed of the quality ... buy meteor or oem only guys ...
Heat treat the LRB piston before use it will last longer!
Cool
Did you compare diameters?
Hi St Zacharie Québec Canada
👍
👍🆙BigGuy
Good morning
Id much rather machine the cylinder and keep the base gasket.. Im just not a fan of deleting gaskets. Personal opinion.. no facts to back it up.
I like keeping the gaskets too. Especially when they are the nice reusable gaskets that Husqvarna tends to use. I love those things!
Keep talkin
Wemars videos😢
Flimflamshamdam!
not worth doing this if your top end is already broken in. even then u would be better off having the base of cylinder taken down so u have a known size squish band. deleting base gaskets is a bad idea. actually the only proven mods to do to the 590 are a muff. mod. and remove limiter caps. i would not even recommend blocking off bypass on high speed nozzle. my saw did not like it that much. better off just turning high speed needle in damn near all the way. i admire your tenacity but.............
DO NOT BUY pistons from lil red barn. I orderd some oversized pistons for my kohler ch20 and one of the pistons was defective. Contacted lil red barn countless times and they're ghosting me. Terrible service and very disappointed. Go elsewhere!!!
I’d recommend you don’t use those pistons from that company
I bake and harden every piston before use. Every company makes mistakes. Great show as always. 🔥🦾
Tell me your process please
@@novicelumberjack I put the the piston in a standard house oven for 3 1/2 hours at 375F. Be very careful wile moving the hot piston not to drop it. Then I warm up engine oil any will work to 100degrees and dip the piston in the oil rite out of the oven. Then I hang cool them to room temp. I would recommend taking a trashed piston and getting used to this process before attempting it on something brand new. Be sure to do a scratch test on the inside of the piston. You should Feel the difference. I have heard of others using engine oil at 450F and soaking pistons for 5 hours also but have not tryed this method. Hope this helps. There is lots of great explanations on google
Very interesting
I think dropping in water is better . Unused motor oil won’t quench any thing. Not to start a argument but from a metallurgical stand point the lunch table would spit out there soda if you said engine oil as a quench. Engine oil Viscosity could be 100-0 so it means nothing
ua-cam.com/video/_jAdcz3VjBQ/v-deo.html
found this video