This Screwdeiver is for Electrical installation work. When you are installing thousands of breakers per year. You screw in the contact in electricly and then apply the correct torque with one of those Slip-Clutches by Hand. It's a very specific Tool for a very specific industry, nothing for regular electronics/repair work.
I've installed DBs like that. Dozens of meters x 4 terminals per meter x 2 screws per terminal... and I wouldn't use this. Too slow, wrong form factor, and the "clutch" doesn't seem to work. Get the proper tool.
As an industrial electrician I wouldn't use that tool . Even those small screws on a 30 year old breaker or relay would be to much for this tool. And if you are using this tool for installing new stuff only, you would go with something like the Panasonic Dave talked about, which can be set precisely to the required torque for a specific screw (terminal) for example. There is no point in doing it with this tool just to do the final Nm by hand anyway. I had the toy version of this thing: www.dwt-gmbh.de/userfiles/image/gallery/panasonic-akku-knickschrauber-ey6220/1-panasonic-akku-knickschrauber-ey6220.jpg And it just was enough to pull out some M4, max M5 screws, and with my feel-o-vision I would guess it had more power that the Wiha, even it was a toy...thing this is a complete fail for its price! I just want to know with electrician would use this thing in everyday work environment....
Yes Orbis92, and industrial electrician wouldn't. (screwless solutions are after all nice when one will redo it once in a while. Or just want less hassle during maintenance. (both being very normal and daily occurrences in the industrial scene.)) A consumer one still faces an abundance of screws on everything from breakers, switches, outlets, among other things in the every day consumer home. And the whole idea with this screw driver is to lessen the risk for repetitive strain injuries. But yes, it is a bit overpriced.
The Panasonic is not up to the job full stop max torque is 17.5in lbf that's only 1.98NM ! Take a :Hager board for one example the only screws that could tighten are Earth and neutral bus bar connections for wires with a diameter of 1.5mm or less! You need 2.8NM for a MCB and 3.6NM for a SB Switch. The torque adaptor being 4NM is 35.4in lbf. Also the Panasonic torque is only aprox.....
we keep saying that - but which one? ....or is it like other 'ergonomic' stuff - which is way more expensive and made of inferior materials (paying for the ergonomic label basically?)
The extension is a torque indicator. It will click and the yellow ring and red adapter will rotate in opposite directions when the torque value by hand in reached. Torque extensions up to 7.0 Nm are available.
Try a torque wrench or is ur hand calibrated? Also: How much torque can PH2 (the bit) or PZ2 (the screw) handle? Whia* says 5.5Nm max *www.wihatools.com/max-torque-blades Then there is the muscle problem. Here is a masters thesis* talking about things like "physical ability to apply torque": "mean value of 3.3 Nm (SD 1.2) and range of 1.9 Nm to 5.8 Nm measured as part of this study where an actual work task was performed." So this torque "adapter" is not going to get to the 2.8Nm because thats a lot of torque (ballpark maximum) without leverage. Just use a torque wrench and measure it. *epublications.marquette.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1226&context=theses_open
As a few have said, it could be defective but, the adapter looks like a torque limiter. Does that yellow end ring rotate in with respect to the arrow on the main body to adjust torque?
The problem is you weren't applying 2.8nm. It would be difficult to apply that much torque to a phillips head without it slipping or stripping. Try a flat head or torx. All of the things you're complaining about were most likely specifically engineered that way. The wobble, the torque slip, the motor cut out, all designed for a specific application. The wobble is likely built in so the handle has some compliance when its turning, to stop the screwdriver from producing a force on your hand if you're not exactly concentric with the screw. This is obviously built into the design considering the rubber oring that holds the bit it. I could be wrong though.
Bob Sacamano I’m fairly certain I can apply 2.8Nm with the twist of my hand. I’m thinking of when I had a torque wrench in my hand and setting it really low, I could easily make it hit the torque “click” by just gripping the socket that’s on it. The limiting factor is the Phillips screw, and the machine he is attempting to torque it to. I believe this is for electrical panels and wire connections that require a specific torque to be to a certain electrical code.
The torque limiter is not rated 8Nm, only the screwdriver without the limiter is. Even so, the bit itself is not rated 8Nm. Depending on the bit size, some are much lower than 8Nm and some are closer to 8 Nm. 8Nm covers the entire range of bits though. I have the Makita cordless screwdriver and 2.8 Nm is about the top end of the torque setting. Like what Sean mentioned, manual 2.8Nm for a philips can be difficult.
pozidriv can be used with a lot of torque as well. You can apply 2.8 nm, but not gonna be easy with a phillips head cause you'll have to push on it for it to not slip.
He used a phillips bit (PH2) on the PZ2 screw in the DUT (multimeter or whatever). He also didnt use a torque wrench to actually measure anything... this video, sadly, contains next to nothing...
Apart from the an wobble, this really is a thing of beauty. To answer your question no your not using it right. The torque adapter is to stop over tightening of terminals as this causes the copper wire to creep which ends up loosening the terminals.
It moves a little bit when the torque is achieved. There are faint indicator marks on the red and yellow parts, and it's supposed to give a click as well.
EEVblog2 then it's either broken or you didn't crank it quite hard enough. The parts should move independently quite a bit. If you search for Wiha EasyTorque Adapter Tutorial, they show a closeup in that video.
isn't that extra piece supposed to be there, so you can put in regular drill bits into it? like if you want to unscrew weird triangle screws, you can easily find bits for it, but not a full wiha thing
Maybe the wobble is a feature? For example, with the wobble you can have some misalignment and still don't detach the tool from the screw while spinning
The adapter will "klick" at 2.8Nm like a normal torque wrench. The torque is at a fix value. You can buy different values from wiha. Maybe your adapter is faulty?
The torque adapter is used when you are manually tightening a screw. When you tighten the screw to the preset limit shown on the torque adapter the bit will just stop turning further even if you keep turning the handle. The torque adapters are available in different "strengths". Probably not too useful for a homeowner but for a pro it will prevent over-tightening and stripping.
I do not understand the easy torque adapter. But in my minds eye.... This tool is not meant to break free or tighten screws. It is more meant to greatly reduce multiple screw removal/replacement without a lot of wrist twisting. Once the screw is free it will spin it out for you right quick. Upon reassembly the driver will spin it in quickly, stop at a light torque then allow you to snug the screw proper by feel. I do not think it was meant as a regular tighten and loosen driver, more just to keep from doing a lot of cranking when doing a lot of screw fasteners.
Yeap. very right. I have no clue why that was included. Maybe for the screws you need to baby cause they are weak? Ya know, the ones that are guaranteed to strip on ya. LOL. I will say this as well..... That "WOBBLE" in it, is totally unacceptable. Thought... Assembly of rf shields say on analyzers? Need a lot of screw all torqued the same, and go over 3 times each a bit more till correct? Would this help any? But then there are no torque settings is there....
why not get a normal cutsie low-performance cordless drill though ....or one specifically designed for that ....just get inserts and screw those in. its not like this thing is incredibly low form factor either. or a very low form factor torque slip thing to go between? .... The only place i could see this being viable is in very very expensive and special applications where somehow its faster doing it this way or you insist everything is finished by hand.
Understand that. In actuality. No motors for me. How about a old fashioned screw driver, that when put in a pile of screws, unlike a magnet one that grabs a bunch of screw and never by the head. Want one where I can put it in my pile of screws and it comes out with the screw on the tip of the driver, ready to be driven. Hope that makes sense. Regardless of all, Love me some Dave Jones.
Just to underline the function of the easytorque - it's not related to the electric function at all, it was already a product in the slimvario product line, and is meant to torque limit a normal hand operated exchangeable-bit screwdriver. I'm not excluding the possibly that the unit you got was broken, but bear in mind that 2.8Nm is quite a lot of torque on such a small screw, even though you have quite a solid grip on that handle.
Well given that it's the largest tip in the kit and I was putting all my force on it until I felt like it was going to break, and it *still* didn't limit or slip, I can only conclude that it doesn't work?
EEVblog2 You could fix an aluminum bar to bolt. Then put the bolt through a hole in a plate. Lastly put know weight to bar at correct distance and you have a grudge torque measure device. You can calculate the torque = 1/2 bar length * bar mass + weight distance * weight mass. Mass in Newton’s and the torque is against gravity, ie rotationally lifting the bar and the weight. 2.8Nm is a lot of torque for a screw. If you haven’t done it in a measure way before, you should, I’ll bet you will be surprised.
confirms my thoughts on this being a fail if it doesnt do that at all.. i mean its the 21th century right? .........this is not a bleeding edge power density tool RIGHT?.........shouldnt be that hard to sense torque semi-accurately and have nice options for control and adjustment right? .......... well you might have to buy a special motor with a very stable Nm/A constant but i dont think thats where the money went on this thing - frankly i dont know. Be carefull with these, they might have implemented a black hole inside that sucked the extra +100$ inside of itself.
RTFM "Just imagine: a screwdriver which allows you to work twice as fast. An electric screw-driving assistant which relieves you of bothersome screw-fastening, yet allows you to finish tightening carefully by hand. Too good to be true? Not at all. The first e-screwdriver from Wiha An electric screwing assistant which relieves professionals of bothersome screw-fastening, yet allows them to finish tightening carefully by hand. Ideal for thread screws and delicate screw fastening tasks. No question about it: speedE® is a true revolution for anyone who works with a screwdriver. With speedE®, you are faster, healthier and more efficient while out on jobs.”
What’s the max torque on a #1 Philip’s? Whoever, just because it’s wigs doesn’t make it worth it. Was it made in Germany of Taiwan? They have plants in both countries.
That torque extension is for tightening screws on industrial equipment, like relays, switches and so, where that 2,8Nm is around the required torque to tighten the contact screws.
It is a mechanical clutch for the hand-tightening after the motor stops. Either Daves adapter us broken or he didn't try hard enough (2.8 Nm seems a lot for such a small screw anyways ...)
I've tried to find an user manual for this thing for 5 minutes and failed ... but to my understanding the easytorque should slip at the rated torque. maybe you need some pliers to test it.
If they can do 1 electronic torque setting they can do more, probably just monitors motor current, calibrate that from the known mechanical setup, seems pretty simple with a couple of components easily. I don't know how they would get multiple speed settings in there mechanically though, the formfactor probably wouldn't allow it.
Like Butze already said- its specifically for electrical installation works. Unlike in US domestic panels, in EU we have to torque each and every breaker with the correct setting (where screws are still used). Such tools enable you to quickly drive in the screws and you just torque the last turn.
Or you could just get a drill driver with settable torque for 1/10 the price. There is no way to justify the price of this thing for the EU or anywhere else. There are far better tools for far less that would do a better job.
Dave, 1 question. Why are you using an electrician's installation screw driver for tightening a screw on a case? This tool is obviously not intended for the application you are using it for, and its main feature (even somewhat clearly pointed out in your other video (the recommended by doctors part in the marketing blurb)) is that one doesn't need to twist one's wrist/arm repeatedly to screw in a screw. This all results in a lower risk for repetitive strain injuries. Main market being electricians. (And likely not the industrial kind either, since they usually likes to use Wago terminal blocks and such, screws are falling out of favor in the industrial scene. While the consumer scene uses screws, but mainly uses more and more breakers/sockets/switches and other similar things in their electrical installations.)
Check into the dewalt 8v max gyroscopic screwdriver. It's got plenty more features, torque and is nicely compact. A lot of people in HVAC field use this for service work.
This screwdriver is designed for the electrician. Usualy, the miniture circuit breaker you can have at home must be torque at about 2n.m; no more ! so this screwdriver is perfect if you have to tighten a lot of this circuit breaker.
your torque adapter seems to be broken - it's clearly described on their website, that this thing is a tool to provide the exact torque (according to ISO 6789 :) to a screw, making "click sounds" when reached...
It is possible if you build it like a Torque Converter as it is build into a Automatic Gearbox for example. You have the Motor as one fixpoint that also turns the main side of it and you have the Screw as the other fix point. Theoretically it should work.
Don`t understand the torque adapter well BS 7671 requires all terminations to be tightened to the correct manufactures torque. This information is available on line. Look at set 3 over £543 and all the different torque adapters come with it. So all your termination can be to manufacturers spec. BS 7671 is harmonised across Europe. So this (LAW) applies across Europe and means nothing anywhere else in the known universe. I hope that clears that up
If you think that way, there might be laws/standards that are just valid in United States of America and nowhere else in the known universe. Note that the population of USofA is 327 million, EU is 512million.
I don’t see a problem in this product on metal screws and not wood screw. It is conceived based on time management for professional maintenance and repairs. You see, it takes a fraction of a second to break loose a bolt in electronic equipment but it will take N times longer to disengage the threads, manually. The powered drive was intended to reduce N down to a small fraction of N and were meant for speed but force. Likewise in manual fastening cycle, N times longer to the last thread only takes a split second to snug it. This tool speed that up. Snugging but stripping the threads (or bending drive tip) is another critical consideration. When working with self tap screws I will not give up the opportunity from receiving torque/force feedback in manual operation at the last moment of quarter turn. Because I need to assure that plastic thread ( or bit tip) will not be blindly stripped down, as it will otherwise be by the motor drive to an unknown torque setting. Those who confused or complaining about this product spend most of their time toying with professional tools but professionals themselves.
so you cant make your 200$ electric screw driver sense high and low torque ...and it is pretty slow? .... okay, cool - ill come back if these things are actually good. do they make torque-slip adapters for standard electric drills?
Peter Gooch Maybe if you have carpal tunnel and are trying to reduce the repetitive stress aspect of driving screws, but health issues aside, for a $500 screwdriver I want to be able to sit back and supervise the screwdriver while it does the job for me (maybe even kickback and enjoy a good sci-if novel). Otherwise I could think of far better things to do with that kind of money than spend it on a single screwdriver.
According to the website the adapter is used to select different torque settings as you can pick a bunch of different ones. Probably some inductive pickup or something.. Price of this thing is ridongculous though.
Just to follow up on my comment on the original video regarding the wobble - that's terrible! I really thought it was going to be better with the adapter.
@Dave Micolichek because I thought the torque adapter shank was slightly bigger than the shank of the bit. That's how it is with the variotorque I have
Just because you don’t understand something, doesn’t make it bad. I am an electrician, I am not a fan of wiha, all the wiha stuff I have previously owned wasn’t great for the price. But I like the idea of this driver. I am happy to torque stuff up by feel but love the idea of a compact driver to take all the slack up on a screw especially when there are dozens of repetitive screws to do
The torque adaptor is most likely an encyclical gear box, try holding the yellow end and running the screwdriver, if the bit turns slower than the motor end you know it's a gear system torque multiplier.
Need to test this turning against a torque wrench or a weighted arm to check if it actually pulls 0.4Nm on motor and clicks on 2.5Nm . Otherwise you may accidentally destroy screw terminals on your μCurrent when trying to torque them all to spec.
That adapter is more than likely for generic hex bits for special tips but still provided the 1000v insulation. Maybe try it out with some standard hex screwdriver bits?
yshouldicar3 The 1000V isolation should be mostly in the handle, with isolated shafts required to avoid accidental shorts. Basic electrical screwdriver safety rules required by law say to discard screwdrivers or scratch off every 1000V rating if the metal gets exposed past the tip. Using regular ¼" metal bits is popular but not really legal on live installations (one could create an isolated holder to make the short bits legal, but still not nice dropping a metal bit inside a live 400V switchboard).
OMG I HAD NO IDEA A TOOL LIKE THIS EXIST. I have always joked with my coworkers wishing for a normal sized screwdriver that spun it self... and HERE IT IS!! Wtff
@@amirs5512 yea in this case the Chinese did the better one. If you don't need the insulation. Maybe it lasts half as long, but it's also half as expensive with double or triple the usefulness.
Dave, sounds like you want the Bosch go screwdriver. It’s only $40 usd, has more torque, variable speed and torque settings. However, it’s not v rated.
looking at the wiha website and the video i've linked below, the torque adapter spins at the specified force to stop you over tightening screws. I don't think its supposed to work in electric mode, if you manually try to over tighten a screw it should start spinning when you hit 2.5Nm. ua-cam.com/video/HDdyk0aW9Bo/v-deo.html
I bought this exact some kit and it's crap, mine was exactly the same as this one in the video and absolutely no back up or support from WIHA Australia and nearly $600 Au
"The easyTorque adapter provides controlled screw tightening combined with safe work practices for electric applications. This torque adapter guarantees process-safe use, thus safeguarding against material damage and eliminating the need for refinishing. Compatible with all slimVario products, the insulated easyTorque adapter also ensures a secure hold for 75 mm slimBits. The handy adapter thus transforms the slimVario screwdriver with bit holder, the slimVario Stubby electric and the LiftUp electric screwdriver with bit magazine into a torque tool in next to no time. A click signal can be heard and the yellow ring and red adapter seen rotating in opposite directions when the torque is reached. With a release accuracy of +/- 10%, the torque tool complies with EN ISO 6789 requirements. The easyTorque adapter undergoes an individual piece test as per the international IEC 60900 standard, allowing users to work safely on live parts up to 1,000 V AC." So, it seems to be a torque wrench like thingy...
Err Dave, you did screw that screw in easier with it, than twisting your hand, and you were able to apply the amount of tightening force YOU wanted and YOU FELT. Did the wobble stop or impede the operation/result? Didn't look like it. On the instruction sheet doesn't it say "FIX WITH FEELING", ie tighten with feeling. With benchtop repairs, each set of screws/bolts have their own tightness FEEL, I don't use a torque screwdriver to TIGHTEN screws when I refit EVERY screw. The last thing I would want to do is keep adjusting MAX torque each time I change application. The fact that the shaft has some wobble didn't stop you accomplishing the task. This is one product that I would love to have. If you don't want it mate, I'll send you my postal address. I know you are doing a critique of the product, but how much do you want from a screwdriver and how much will you pay? Seeing as we have no Automotive Assembly lines now, there must be some of the production line tools going cheap, including intelligent power screwdrivers. Tom...
If the adapter had a planetary gear set in it where the blade moved at a slower rpm than the handle - doesn't look like it - it would multiply torque. Unless that yellow ring does something it just looks like an extension.
I got a nice little $8 US electric screwdriver that uses replaceable AA batteries. Works way better and has lots more torque. When I find myself out of juice, I just pop in more batteries and "Bob's your uncle" away I go.
The 4nm adapter is for your when you're finishing the last tightening half-turn of a screw by hand; it will make sure you are at about 4nm, just like any torque wrench minus extra settings because it's compact. Still overpriced.
totoxahc The 0.4Nm is the torque limit of the internal motorized screwdriver function. The screwdriver handle as a whole is rated for up to 8Nm, the PH2 insert bit is rated to 15.5Nm and the fixed torque limiting adapter accessory has a torque limit of 2.8Nm (but only under hand power since the motorized portion of the screwdriver only delivers 0.4Nm under its own power).
This is the purpose of this type of driver - www.hager.co.uk/downloads-services/technical-services/torque-settings/52986.htm Also the things i'ts mainly designed for use PZ not Philips heads. I've also seen meter tails into a SB switch disconnecter come lose over time after not being tightened enough!
You are not using this tool correctly. It is designed to insert screws without a chance of stripping the threads. The final tightening is intended to be done by hand or using a properly calibrated torque tool if necessary. Right tool for the job, etc.
Wrong tool for the price. Buy a frigging drill driver with a torque setting for $30. If the EU has such stringent torque requirements, there are manual torque slip screwdrivers that are calibrated for that. I believe Wiha even sells some. This is a fail. Just like the power torque wrench Milwaukee is coming out with will be a fail. Wiha generally makes good products, but that doesn't mean they don't do some duds occasionally. This thing will hopefully be pulled from the market fairly quickly and we can all forget it ever existed.
The only thing you were right in assuming is that you don't understand. Everything else is understandable from a professionals point of view. Since you only have the 2.8 EasyTorque adapter, you weren't able to put enough pressure on to see it working. Try a lower torque and you will see what I mean. Get a EasyTorque adapter with a lower torque and you will here a click when the right torque is set.
The whole slim fit system is a total fail IMHO (not just the electrical screwdriver) - ordered a set once and sent them right back. The fit of the bits and the wobble is just infurating to work with. Got the wera VDE sets with replaceable bits instead and its better in every way. And yes, for installation work where torque settings is critical you'll always use a dedicated pre set torquescrewdriver and not this silly contraption. Wiha makes great tools but forget their vde slim fit system.
It's for electrical installation. Install circuitbreakers and the like. They need this specific torque. Capiche? It's not a normal electric screwdriver.
This Screwdeiver is for Electrical installation work. When you are installing thousands of breakers per year. You screw in the contact in electricly and then apply the correct torque with one of those Slip-Clutches by Hand. It's a very specific Tool for a very specific industry, nothing for regular electronics/repair work.
I've installed DBs like that. Dozens of meters x 4 terminals per meter x 2 screws per terminal... and I wouldn't use this. Too slow, wrong form factor, and the "clutch" doesn't seem to work. Get the proper tool.
As an industrial electrician I wouldn't use that tool . Even those small screws on a 30 year old breaker or relay would be to much for this tool. And if you are using this tool for installing new stuff only, you would go with something like the Panasonic Dave talked about, which can be set precisely to the required torque for a specific screw (terminal) for example. There is no point in doing it with this tool just to do the final Nm by hand anyway. I had the toy version of this thing: www.dwt-gmbh.de/userfiles/image/gallery/panasonic-akku-knickschrauber-ey6220/1-panasonic-akku-knickschrauber-ey6220.jpg
And it just was enough to pull out some M4, max M5 screws, and with my feel-o-vision I would guess it had more power that the Wiha, even it was a toy...thing this is a complete fail for its price!
I just want to know with electrician would use this thing in everyday work environment....
Yes Orbis92, and industrial electrician wouldn't. (screwless solutions are after all nice when one will redo it once in a while. Or just want less hassle during maintenance. (both being very normal and daily occurrences in the industrial scene.))
A consumer one still faces an abundance of screws on everything from breakers, switches, outlets, among other things in the every day consumer home.
And the whole idea with this screw driver is to lessen the risk for repetitive strain injuries.
But yes, it is a bit overpriced.
The Panasonic is not up to the job full stop max torque is 17.5in lbf that's only 1.98NM ! Take a :Hager board for one example the only screws that could tighten are Earth and neutral bus bar connections for wires with a diameter of 1.5mm or less! You need 2.8NM for a MCB and 3.6NM for a SB Switch. The torque adaptor being 4NM is 35.4in lbf. Also the Panasonic torque is only aprox.....
we keep saying that - but which one? ....or is it like other 'ergonomic' stuff - which is way more expensive and made of inferior materials (paying for the ergonomic label basically?)
The extension is a torque indicator. It will click and the yellow ring and red adapter will rotate in opposite directions when the torque value by hand in reached. Torque extensions up to 7.0 Nm are available.
I tightended it up until I thought it was going to break and it still didn't click or rotate.
@@EEVblog2 Then it's a broken torque indication :)
Try a torque wrench or is ur hand calibrated?
Also: How much torque can PH2 (the bit) or PZ2 (the screw) handle?
Whia* says 5.5Nm max
*www.wihatools.com/max-torque-blades
Then there is the muscle problem. Here is a masters thesis* talking about things like "physical ability to apply torque":
"mean value of 3.3 Nm (SD 1.2) and range of 1.9 Nm to 5.8 Nm measured as part of this study where an actual work task was performed."
So this torque "adapter" is not going to get to the 2.8Nm because thats a lot of torque (ballpark maximum) without leverage.
Just use a torque wrench and measure it.
*epublications.marquette.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1226&context=theses_open
Nice one Dave. Love a good follow up.
As a few have said, it could be defective but, the adapter looks like a torque limiter. Does that yellow end ring rotate in with respect to the arrow on the main body to adjust torque?
The problem is you weren't applying 2.8nm. It would be difficult to apply that much torque to a phillips head without it slipping or stripping. Try a flat head or torx. All of the things you're complaining about were most likely specifically engineered that way. The wobble, the torque slip, the motor cut out, all designed for a specific application. The wobble is likely built in so the handle has some compliance when its turning, to stop the screwdriver from producing a force on your hand if you're not exactly concentric with the screw. This is obviously built into the design considering the rubber oring that holds the bit it. I could be wrong though.
Bob Sacamano I’m fairly certain I can apply 2.8Nm with the twist of my hand. I’m thinking of when I had a torque wrench in my hand and setting it really low, I could easily make it hit the torque “click” by just gripping the socket that’s on it. The limiting factor is the Phillips screw, and the machine he is attempting to torque it to. I believe this is for electrical panels and wire connections that require a specific torque to be to a certain electrical code.
The torque limiter is not rated 8Nm, only the screwdriver without the limiter is. Even so, the bit itself is not rated 8Nm. Depending on the bit size, some are much lower than 8Nm and some are closer to 8 Nm. 8Nm covers the entire range of bits though. I have the Makita cordless screwdriver and 2.8 Nm is about the top end of the torque setting. Like what Sean mentioned, manual 2.8Nm for a philips can be difficult.
@Bob Sacamano the adaptor is 4NM the 8NM is the safe working load for the body of the driver?
pozidriv can be used with a lot of torque as well.
You can apply 2.8 nm, but not gonna be easy with a phillips head cause you'll have to push on it for it to not slip.
He used a phillips bit (PH2) on the PZ2 screw in the DUT (multimeter or whatever).
He also didnt use a torque wrench to actually measure anything... this video, sadly, contains next to nothing...
Is the wobble as the insulated bits are 6mm across flats, but the handle also accepts 6.35mm bits (non-insulated) ?
Apart from the an wobble, this really is a thing of beauty. To answer your question no your not using it right. The torque adapter is to stop over tightening of terminals as this causes the copper wire to creep which ends up loosening the terminals.
is the adapter for the 1000v isolation? at 1:41 you can see it says 1000V on it.
What about that yellow part of that adapter? Does it rotate? Maybe it has inside slip ratchet?
it almost seems like it has raised marks for different settings in relation to the black arrow on the red body... hmmmm
it does...
It moves a little bit when the torque is achieved. There are faint indicator marks on the red and yellow parts, and it's supposed to give a click as well.
No its does not rotate, although it looks like it should.
EEVblog2 then it's either broken or you didn't crank it quite hard enough. The parts should move independently quite a bit. If you search for Wiha EasyTorque Adapter Tutorial, they show a closeup in that video.
isn't that extra piece supposed to be there, so you can put in regular drill bits into it? like if you want to unscrew weird triangle screws, you can easily find bits for it, but not a full wiha thing
Maybe the wobble is a feature? For example, with the wobble you can have some misalignment and still don't detach the tool from the screw while spinning
Send it to AvE, we need a proper BOLTR! :D
Yeah
He'd use it to stir his coffee
He'll just talk about the plastic spec, say hello to Chickadee then break it.
@Gaf, that's what he said, a proper BOLTR!
@@scribblargh eh
I'm still wondering why you didn't take it apart. ;)
Because I think it would be destructive
Don't turn it on, take it apart!
@@EEVblog2 It would be cool to see the guts, maybe you could get one just to take apart?
Because its his "precious". I wouldn't want to risk breaking it either, who wants to fork out $500 for another one?
Maybe when he decides it's no longer worth using, it'll be pulled apart?
The adapter will "klick" at 2.8Nm like a normal torque wrench. The torque is at a fix value. You can buy different values from wiha. Maybe your adapter is faulty?
The torque adapter is used when you are manually tightening a screw. When you tighten the screw to the preset limit shown on the torque adapter the bit will just stop turning further even if you keep turning the handle. The torque adapters are available in different "strengths". Probably not too useful for a homeowner but for a pro it will prevent over-tightening and stripping.
I do not understand the easy torque adapter. But in my minds eye.... This tool is not meant to break free or tighten screws. It is more meant to greatly reduce multiple screw removal/replacement without a lot of wrist twisting. Once the screw is free it will spin it out for you right quick. Upon reassembly the driver will spin it in quickly, stop at a light torque then allow you to snug the screw proper by feel. I do not think it was meant as a regular tighten and loosen driver, more just to keep from doing a lot of cranking when doing a lot of screw fasteners.
Yes, but as you said, how does the torque adapter work? and why do they include it?
Yeap. very right. I have no clue why that was included. Maybe for the screws you need to baby cause they are weak? Ya know, the ones that are guaranteed to strip on ya. LOL. I will say this as well..... That "WOBBLE" in it, is totally unacceptable. Thought... Assembly of rf shields say on analyzers? Need a lot of screw all torqued the same, and go over 3 times each a bit more till correct? Would this help any? But then there are no torque settings is there....
why not get a normal cutsie low-performance cordless drill though ....or one specifically designed for that ....just get inserts and screw those in. its not like this thing is incredibly low form factor either. or a very low form factor torque slip thing to go between? .... The only place i could see this being viable is in very very expensive and special applications where somehow its faster doing it this way or you insist everything is finished by hand.
Understand that. In actuality. No motors for me. How about a old fashioned screw driver, that when put in a pile of screws, unlike a magnet one that grabs a bunch of screw and never by the head. Want one where I can put it in my pile of screws and it comes out with the screw on the tip of the driver, ready to be driven. Hope that makes sense. Regardless of all, Love me some Dave Jones.
I know what you talking about. I recall seeing one or 2 my dad had when I was a kid. A kind of worm gear driver, push to turn. yeap.
Just to underline the function of the easytorque - it's not related to the electric function at all, it was already a product in the slimvario product line, and is meant to torque limit a normal hand operated exchangeable-bit screwdriver. I'm not excluding the possibly that the unit you got was broken, but bear in mind that 2.8Nm is quite a lot of torque on such a small screw, even though you have quite a solid grip on that handle.
Well given that it's the largest tip in the kit and I was putting all my force on it until I felt like it was going to break, and it *still* didn't limit or slip, I can only conclude that it doesn't work?
EEVblog2 You could fix an aluminum bar to bolt. Then put the bolt through a hole in a plate. Lastly put know weight to bar at correct distance and you have a grudge torque measure device. You can calculate the torque = 1/2 bar length * bar mass + weight distance * weight mass. Mass in Newton’s and the torque is against gravity, ie rotationally lifting the bar and the weight.
2.8Nm is a lot of torque for a screw. If you haven’t done it in a measure way before, you should, I’ll bet you will be surprised.
Very rough guides to torque in human terms: 1Nm - finger and thumb, 10Nm turning a big screwdriver, 100Nm turning a steering wheel (two hands).
confirms my thoughts on this being a fail if it doesnt do that at all.. i mean its the 21th century right? .........this is not a bleeding edge power density tool RIGHT?.........shouldnt be that hard to sense torque semi-accurately and have nice options for control and adjustment right? .......... well you might have to buy a special motor with a very stable Nm/A constant but i dont think thats where the money went on this thing - frankly i dont know. Be carefull with these, they might have implemented a black hole inside that sucked the extra +100$ inside of itself.
RTFM
"Just imagine: a screwdriver which allows you to work twice as fast. An electric screw-driving assistant which relieves you of bothersome screw-fastening, yet allows you to finish tightening carefully by hand. Too good to be true? Not at all.
The first e-screwdriver from Wiha
An electric screwing assistant which relieves professionals of bothersome screw-fastening, yet allows them to finish tightening carefully by hand. Ideal for thread screws and delicate screw fastening tasks.
No question about it: speedE® is a true revolution for anyone who works with a screwdriver. With speedE®, you are faster, healthier and more efficient while out on jobs.”
What’s the max torque on a #1 Philip’s? Whoever, just because it’s wigs doesn’t make it worth it. Was it made in Germany of Taiwan? They have plants in both countries.
Is there a planetary gear in the adapter? With less turns / minute you get more torque.
No.
Stay tuned for Pt 3, the discovery of the turning part with a marker on it :D
So. Did you charge the batteries yet?
That torque extension is for tightening screws on industrial equipment, like relays, switches and so, where that 2,8Nm is around the required torque to tighten the contact screws.
But how does it work?
It slips.
Yeah it wasn't releasing under huge torture.
It is a mechanical clutch for the hand-tightening after the motor stops. Either Daves adapter us broken or he didn't try hard enough (2.8 Nm seems a lot for such a small screw anyways ...)
I think he didn't apply enough torque.
Must be broken. I can't understand it otherwise.
Maybe it is to give 1000V CAT III rating? what CAT rating is on a main screwdriver body?
I've tried to find an user manual for this thing for 5 minutes and failed ... but to my understanding the easytorque should slip at the rated torque. maybe you need some pliers to test it.
Love my Wiha tools but as currently configured this one won't be joining the family on my workbench...more design work needed unfortunately. :(
I already had the same thought after seeing the first video but sadly using the extension bit aka torq adapter didn't pan out as helpful at all
If they can do 1 electronic torque setting they can do more, probably just monitors motor current, calibrate that from the known mechanical setup, seems pretty simple with a couple of components easily. I don't know how they would get multiple speed settings in there mechanically though, the formfactor probably wouldn't allow it.
I almost think that once it snugs down with the little motor, you grab the "E-Z Torque" and turn it hard like a screwdriver.
"A click signal can be heard and the yellow ring and red adapter seen rotating in opposite directions when the torque is reached"
Like Butze already said- its specifically for electrical installation works. Unlike in US domestic panels, in EU we have to torque each and every breaker with the correct setting (where screws are still used). Such tools enable you to quickly drive in the screws and you just torque the last turn.
Or you could just get a drill driver with settable torque for 1/10 the price. There is no way to justify the price of this thing for the EU or anywhere else. There are far better tools for far less that would do a better job.
Thank you for being so honest with your reviews. You’re the only you tuber that can receive stuff to review and still be brutally honest.
Aren't you suppose to turn the yellow part to set the torque ?
Nope, it's fixed.
Dave, 1 question.
Why are you using an electrician's installation screw driver for tightening a screw on a case?
This tool is obviously not intended for the application you are using it for, and its main feature (even somewhat clearly pointed out in your other video (the recommended by doctors part in the marketing blurb)) is that one doesn't need to twist one's wrist/arm repeatedly to screw in a screw. This all results in a lower risk for repetitive strain injuries. Main market being electricians. (And likely not the industrial kind either, since they usually likes to use Wago terminal blocks and such, screws are falling out of favor in the industrial scene. While the consumer scene uses screws, but mainly uses more and more breakers/sockets/switches and other similar things in their electrical installations.)
I expect it uses either the motor current sensing or battery overcurrent protection for the "electronic clutch".
Check into the dewalt 8v max gyroscopic screwdriver. It's got plenty more features, torque and is nicely compact. A lot of people in HVAC field use this for service work.
Yeah and it's closer to $29 than $299. But let the fan boys Wihahahhahahahahahaha
The torque adapter is supposed to click when it reaches its torque limit. Maybe yours is busted.
Or he can not afford 2.8 Nm in his arms :P
From the wiha site: A click signal can be heard and the yellow ring and red adapter seen rotating in opposite directions when the torque is reached.
Try a review of the DEVON 5612-Li-4 screwdriver.. It seems like one of these but it's just a screwdriver, non-torque.
This screwdriver is designed for the electrician. Usualy, the miniture circuit breaker you can have at home must be torque at about 2n.m; no more ! so this screwdriver is perfect if you have to tighten a lot of this circuit breaker.
your torque adapter seems to be broken - it's clearly described on their website, that this thing is a tool to provide the exact torque (according to ISO 6789 :) to a screw, making "click sounds" when reached...
Did you charge this thing up? I use a similar one of these at work and the torque correlates strongly with battery charge
Im wondering the same thing, he never mentioned it.
mikeissweet It is SPECIFIED to never pull more than 0.4Nm by motor. Charging the battery is not allowed to add torque.
how should a torque Converter work without any additional fix-point, newtons law forbids that
It is possible if you build it like a Torque Converter as it is build into a Automatic Gearbox for example. You have the Motor as one fixpoint that also turns the main side of it and you have the Screw as the other fix point. Theoretically it should work.
Don`t understand the torque adapter well BS 7671 requires all terminations to be tightened to the correct manufactures torque. This information is available on line. Look at set 3 over £543 and all the different torque adapters come with it. So all your termination can be to manufacturers spec. BS 7671 is harmonised across Europe. So this (LAW) applies across Europe and means nothing anywhere else in the known universe. I hope that clears that up
If you think that way, there might be laws/standards that are just valid in United States of America and nowhere else in the known universe. Note that the population of USofA is 327 million, EU is 512million.
I don’t see a problem in this product on metal screws and not wood screw. It is conceived based on time management for professional maintenance and repairs.
You see, it takes a fraction of a second to break loose a bolt in electronic equipment but it will take N times longer to disengage the threads, manually. The powered drive was intended to reduce N down to a small fraction of N and were meant for speed but force. Likewise in manual fastening cycle, N times longer to the last thread only takes a split second to snug it. This tool speed that up.
Snugging but stripping the threads (or bending drive tip) is another critical consideration. When working with self tap screws I will not give up the opportunity from receiving torque/force feedback in manual operation at the last moment of quarter turn. Because I need to assure that plastic thread ( or bit tip) will not be blindly stripped down, as it will otherwise be by the motor drive to an unknown torque setting.
Those who confused or complaining about this product spend most of their time toying with professional tools but professionals themselves.
so you cant make your 200$ electric screw driver sense high and low torque ...and it is pretty slow? .... okay, cool - ill come back if these things are actually good. do they make torque-slip adapters for standard electric drills?
Is AUD$490+ reasonable for an electric screwdriver?
Peter Gooch Maybe if you have carpal tunnel and are trying to reduce the repetitive stress aspect of driving screws, but health issues aside, for a $500 screwdriver I want to be able to sit back and supervise the screwdriver while it does the job for me (maybe even kickback and enjoy a good sci-if novel). Otherwise I could think of far better things to do with that kind of money than spend it on a single screwdriver.
@@ethanpoole3443 I totally agree. However for that money I would expect it to make coffee and sandwiches as well.
I checked some videos on youtube, it is a torque adapter. It looks like yours is broken.
According to the website the adapter is used to select different torque settings as you can pick a bunch of different ones. Probably some inductive pickup or something.. Price of this thing is ridongculous though.
There is demonstration on UA-cam: "Tutorial: Wiha easyTorque electric torque Adapter"
It's starts slipping.
Just to follow up on my comment on the original video regarding the wobble - that's terrible! I really thought it was going to be better with the adapter.
@Dave Micolichek because I thought the torque adapter shank was slightly bigger than the shank of the bit. That's how it is with the variotorque I have
The snobdriver!
Just because you don’t understand something, doesn’t make it bad.
I am an electrician, I am not a fan of wiha, all the wiha stuff I have previously owned wasn’t great for the price. But I like the idea of this driver. I am happy to torque stuff up by feel but love the idea of a compact driver to take all the slack up on a screw especially when there are dozens of repetitive screws to do
The torque adaptor is most likely an encyclical gear box, try holding the yellow end and running the screwdriver, if the bit turns slower than the motor end you know it's a gear system torque multiplier.
It's just torque limiter.
I like the extension. Would be nice in my makita driver.
Surely the torque adapter is meant to work like a torque multiplier, where the input turns a multiple of times more than the output.
Still doesn't explain the exorbitant asking price lol
They can ask any price they want...
@@JGnLAU8OAWF6 hahaha good luck too them at $500 , I'm guessing they'll sell ZERO
It's not meant for general consumers. You should guess better.
Someone is rich enought to put one in the mail... haha!
I thought Wiha sent it.
Need to test this turning against a torque wrench or a weighted arm to check if it actually pulls 0.4Nm on motor and clicks on 2.5Nm . Otherwise you may accidentally destroy screw terminals on your μCurrent when trying to torque them all to spec.
Maybe the adaptor is to allow the use of driver bits that are all metal. That way, the voltage rating is maintained at the handle
That adapter is more than likely for generic hex bits for special tips but still provided the 1000v insulation. Maybe try it out with some standard hex screwdriver bits?
yshouldicar3 The 1000V isolation should be mostly in the handle, with isolated shafts required to avoid accidental shorts. Basic electrical screwdriver safety rules required by law say to discard screwdrivers or scratch off every 1000V rating if the metal gets exposed past the tip. Using regular ¼" metal bits is popular but not really legal on live installations (one could create an isolated holder to make the short bits legal, but still not nice dropping a metal bit inside a live 400V switchboard).
Regular bits (6.35 mm) will not fit, those Wiha Slimbits are 6 mm hex shaft.
@@toolthoughts good to know! :)
Why is this screwdriver so ridiculously expensive??? I bought the Hammerhead electric screwdriver for a little over 20 bucks and its great!
OMG I HAD NO IDEA A TOOL LIKE THIS EXIST. I have always joked with my coworkers wishing for a normal sized screwdriver that spun it self... and HERE IT IS!! Wtff
There are better ones for half the price.
@@GLITCH_-.- the chinese have even made one
@@amirs5512 yea in this case the Chinese did the better one. If you don't need the insulation.
Maybe it lasts half as long, but it's also half as expensive with double or triple the usefulness.
Maybe try regular bits in adapter.
Dave, sounds like you want the Bosch go screwdriver. It’s only $40 usd, has more torque, variable speed and torque settings. However, it’s not v rated.
It's lowest speed can be a bit too fast IIRC
An automatic screwdriver for when you don't want to worry about torque. It drives the screw in than stops to let you hand tighten.
It’s for saving me carpal tunnel when it’s energized. I torque with a larger screwdriver.
Dave, I don't think it is made for what you are doing with it.
looking at the wiha website and the video i've linked below, the torque adapter spins at the specified force to stop you over tightening screws. I don't think its supposed to work in electric mode, if you manually try to over tighten a screw it should start spinning when you hit 2.5Nm.
ua-cam.com/video/HDdyk0aW9Bo/v-deo.html
You apply the rest of the torque by hand. The adaptor is a limiter.
I bought this exact some kit and it's crap, mine was exactly the same as this one in the video and absolutely no back up or support from WIHA Australia and nearly $600 Au
You should use the es121. It works better looks better and has a open Source software
"The easyTorque adapter provides controlled screw tightening combined with safe work practices for electric applications. This torque adapter guarantees process-safe use, thus safeguarding against material damage and eliminating the need for refinishing. Compatible with all slimVario products, the insulated easyTorque adapter also ensures a secure hold for 75 mm slimBits. The handy adapter thus transforms the slimVario screwdriver with bit holder, the slimVario Stubby electric and the LiftUp electric screwdriver with bit magazine into a torque tool in next to no time. A click signal can be heard and the yellow ring and red adapter seen rotating in opposite directions when the torque is reached. With a release accuracy of +/- 10%, the torque tool complies with EN ISO 6789 requirements. The easyTorque adapter undergoes an individual piece test as per the international IEC 60900 standard, allowing users to work safely on live parts up to 1,000 V AC."
So, it seems to be a torque wrench like thingy...
As someone who wires control panels for a living I can see a legitimate use for it but with a price starting at 299 forget it.
Err Dave, you did screw that screw in easier with it, than twisting your hand, and you were able to apply the amount of tightening force YOU wanted and YOU FELT.
Did the wobble stop or impede the operation/result?
Didn't look like it.
On the instruction sheet doesn't it say "FIX WITH FEELING", ie tighten with feeling.
With benchtop repairs, each set of screws/bolts have their own tightness FEEL, I don't use a torque screwdriver to TIGHTEN screws when I refit EVERY screw.
The last thing I would want to do is keep adjusting MAX torque each time I change application.
The fact that the shaft has some wobble didn't stop you accomplishing the task.
This is one product that I would love to have.
If you don't want it mate, I'll send you my postal address.
I know you are doing a critique of the product, but how much do you want from a screwdriver and how much will you pay?
Seeing as we have no Automotive Assembly lines now, there must be some of the production line tools going cheap, including intelligent power screwdrivers.
Tom...
There is a second edition of this screwdriver - faster RPM, better light, and two torque settings!
You don't have the torque adapter installed properly. It has settings and you have it set on 1 to 1
If you gotta do hundreds of screws, get a smaller powered drill. That one you can set the torque on, and it is easier to hold and stuff.
I think you were right when you called it an extender, that thing won't do anything to increase the torque.
Unless you have to do it by hand and that thing slips at the advertised torque
It's a torque indicator, like a torque wrench. (2.8 Nm is quite a bit to do by hand) without some leverage.
@@zer0b0t about 25 inch pounds
It's not an adapter. It only is a slip clutch to limit the torque when you tighten the screws by hand to the torque it's rated for.
But screwdriver can't produce enought moment. ua-cam.com/video/Z7FP80uPJPY/v-deo.html
Nothing worse than when your wobble gets worse!
Eat better and go to the gym.
Frank Gormanns Is that relevant somehow?
@@uriituw sorry for joking
If the adapter had a planetary gear set in it where the blade moved at a slower rpm than the handle - doesn't look like it - it would multiply torque. Unless that yellow ring does something it just looks like an extension.
It limits torque.
"It's electric"
If you've ever been to a wedding in the US, you probably instantly thought "boogie oogie oogie oogie"
That would not replace my 2.4v Milwaukee cordless screwdriver.
i hacked my black&decker with a 18650 + $2 charge module
2.4V is an odd choice for a tool
Its old nicd.
I got a nice little $8 US electric screwdriver that uses replaceable AA batteries. Works way better and has lots more torque. When I find myself out of juice, I just pop in more batteries and "Bob's your uncle" away I go.
Take it apart!
The 4nm adapter is for your when you're finishing the last tightening half-turn of a screw by hand; it will make sure you are at about 4nm, just like any torque wrench minus extra settings because it's compact.
Still overpriced.
how to change nm?
SpeedE V2 will have additional settings. This is only the beginning
Don't turn it on . Take it apaart. I really want to know what's in that adapter, if anything.
The tool needs further development, right now it is like an answer searching for a question.
Meant for electrical installation work, not for general work.
1:54, what number is that?? x.4 Nm? can't understand the number
totoxahc The 0.4Nm is the torque limit of the internal motorized screwdriver function. The screwdriver handle as a whole is rated for up to 8Nm, the PH2 insert bit is rated to 15.5Nm and the fixed torque limiting adapter accessory has a torque limit of 2.8Nm (but only under hand power since the motorized portion of the screwdriver only delivers 0.4Nm under its own power).
He says NOUGHT .4, which is an Australian/British way of saying ZERO .4.
Nought and Naught mean Nothing and an amount of zero is nothing or none.
Thanks, English is not my primary language. I never had trouble understanding Dave until now. I didn't know (or remember) that word.
That holder is probably just a standard bit holder for your normal 1/4 screwdriver bits. That’s all
No.
This is the purpose of this type of driver - www.hager.co.uk/downloads-services/technical-services/torque-settings/52986.htm Also the things i'ts mainly designed for use PZ not Philips heads. I've also seen meter tails into a SB switch disconnecter come lose over time after not being tightened enough!
You are not using this tool correctly. It is designed to insert screws without a chance of stripping the threads. The final tightening is intended to be done by hand or using a properly calibrated torque tool if necessary. Right tool for the job, etc.
Wrong tool for the price. Buy a frigging drill driver with a torque setting for $30. If the EU has such stringent torque requirements, there are manual torque slip screwdrivers that are calibrated for that. I believe Wiha even sells some. This is a fail. Just like the power torque wrench Milwaukee is coming out with will be a fail. Wiha generally makes good products, but that doesn't mean they don't do some duds occasionally. This thing will hopefully be pulled from the market fairly quickly and we can all forget it ever existed.
The only thing you were right in assuming is that you don't understand. Everything else is understandable from a professionals point of view.
Since you only have the 2.8 EasyTorque adapter, you weren't able to put enough pressure on to see it working. Try a lower torque and you will see what I mean. Get a EasyTorque adapter with a lower torque and you will here a click when the right torque is set.
The whole slim fit system is a total fail IMHO (not just the electrical screwdriver) - ordered a set once and sent them right back. The fit of the bits and the wobble is just infurating to work with. Got the wera VDE sets with replaceable bits instead and its better in every way. And yes, for installation work where torque settings is critical you'll always use a dedicated pre set torquescrewdriver and not this silly contraption. Wiha makes great tools but forget their vde slim fit system.
2.8Nm is a lot, chances are you where not applying enough force to slip it. Though I'm pretty sure 2.8Nm is too much for most electrical work.
Yeah.......nooo.
Thought there maybe instruction. Oh Dave doesn't use them.
You are right. He doesn't get the point of this tool, and how it works. This is the first time I disliked one of his videos
Well if you know so well why don't you tell us eh?
It's for electrical installation. Install circuitbreakers and the like. They need this specific torque.
Capiche?
It's not a normal electric screwdriver.
I could see the advantage on electrical. So wonder why they gave it to a electronics dude for eval. (That is me as well) I wouldn't like to use it.
actually they should have given it to Big Clive, he's an electrician.
Well... from what you've shown in both videos... I wouldn't get one...
Don't screwdrivers turn the opposite direction down in Australia? 🤣
Its why the country is full of loose units...