I am a long time fan of INDe drums. I currently own an Aluminum shell Wayfarer kit and a 6.5” Aluminum snare that matches beautifully with the kit. The bass, rack and floor Tom of the Wayfarer aluminum weighs less than 25 lbs total ! It sounds magnificent too
There is another drum that is (or was) constructed like that - the Slingerland Festival. It was steel and chromed, rolled and welded and riveted. The bearing edge on the Festival was folded over, so double in thickness. The INDe drums are very cool.
I second that internal muffler pov. I agree 120% in fact so much I usually add them the best way I can fashion use the vent hole as access then use evens HD dry vented top heads and it works well so well I had to think of a cheaper way when I upgraded didn't have another apparatus so I removed it from this pearl student steel I have and in stalled the vent grommet back but also equal laterally spaced foam tape to taste. And damn thing was tasty to the point I have adopted that on other drums usually on smooth wall metal in fact only them now I think back on that. Huh well so 130% then I guess I am in chorus or propagated resonance. Back to figuring out this pearl icon rack I just picked up , video idea unless my laziness has betrayed me and you have already which I would say thanks for possibly that one. Either way I vehemently enjoy the channel and I am a 40 year old ludite so I struggle with ease of use of this medium. Why world is it yall dispensed of magazines and thoughtfull mass consumltion narative layouts for the bit driven alla carte nature of UA-cam or web sites in general. I find boundaries and the perverbial boxes helpful in initial learning the world whyd web. Ludite fyi sadly doesn't refer to ludwig which seems like a missed opertunity some how.....
Only two mics on a kit? Probably a D112 (or a good vintage type ribbon) directly in front of the kick a foot or two in front (wherever the low end punches) and a good ribbon overhead, probably 6 feet off the ground pointed at the kick pedal. Tune the drums higher than normal (and use larger diameters if you want lower pitches), so the tone will carry all the way to the mic(s)). I'd do a crap ton of tricks in the mixing, but if the drums are good and well tuned I could likely make that set up work for.a lot of things.
So psyched you reviewed this drum! I’ve had mine for about 2 years and it’s incredible! By far the most sensitive snare I own, and I own a lot! 😂 Your production is amazing as always, can you tell me what cymbals you were using? Especially the crash on the left/hihat side. Those crashes are just magic. ❤ And another Aquarian fan? Dude, you are my freaking HERO! Thank you for another fantastic video!
* Late 70s/early 80s, six-ply Ludwigs * 70s/80s Tama Superstar * Almost anything from Pearl in the 80s * Late 70s through 1980s Sonor Phonic (and even SonorLite, which are much heavier than modern shells). * Yamaha drums weren't quite as heavy as others in the 80s, but by modern standards they too are quite heavy (I actually have an early set of Yamaha 7000 drums that were made in Taiwan ROC (according to the badges) that are VERY thick and heavy (the kick weighs a TON). They are lauan and something else (not recalling at the moment), and they're wonderful, full-bodied drums with great sustain -- I particularly love the bass drum! Basically virtually anything that was made in from the late 70s to mid 80s that was six ply or more will be quite heavy compared to modern shells. Veneers used for drum construction were much thicker back then compared to today, so if it's six ply or more from that era you'll likely have a shell with much greater mass compared to anything being made today. Hope that helps!!
Got a 14x8 Stainless Steel from Indé. Can't say enough good things about this drum. Wasn't super fund of the original Aquarian heads tho so swapped them for some hazy Ambassador (bottom) and CS "X" coated (top). Tried a 42 strand snare wire and still absolutely loving it. My main remark (not necessarily a negative thing) is about the throw. All great beside this: it doesn't seem to allow quick ajustement on the fly without disengaging it. But it surely won't ever detune during playing, so... Great job from Josh, great video Sir.
Excellent review, adding this to the wish list. Kind of an odd question, but what are the shelves you have in the background? They seem to be exactly what I'm looking for.
Sincerely, Joel I love the fact you have dialed into the 12 strand snare wires due to the low mass and your style. I aspire to have that depth of self knowledge. Love the channel and analysis. Enjoyed the physics lesson w/Sonor docs as well.
Th internal muffler does seem to be having a resurgance. If you get the chance check out the Sonor benny greb signature snare they have very interesting internal mufflers.
Hi Joel that drum sounds great I'm thinking about a walnut snare drum what are your thoughts on that craviotto probably out of my price range Play a Gretsch kit in Hammond organ group cheers
Thanks so much! While I'm not personally familiar with Craviotto snares or even walnut in particular, I can see by the wood database that walnut has 2/3rd hardness of maple and is less elastic (though wood, in general isn't technically an elastic material). As such I'd suspect it to be maple-like with lighter low end as well as slightly mellower top end and a tad less overall sustain. A punchy, detailed drum, a bit more mid-focused, but articulate, compared to maple. I'm actually working on a video about tone woods and their characteristics, which is why I'm willing to make a guess on a walnut snare when I'm personally not familiar with them too much. I should have that video out in a couple of weeks, so that might interest you as I discuss wood characteristics for drum shell construction. Thanks for the question!!
I have not (I actually don't currently have a die-cast 8-lug hoop to use). I have an 8-lug S-hoop, and should give it a whirl. I generally don't love die-cast hoops as they fairly require even tension at all lugs to behave well, IMO. And I so often like to detune a couple of lugs a bit just to dial in a bit more 'raw' to the sound. I do love die cast on Tama Mastercraft drums, however. Something about those hoops with that roller bed/extended snare design is just amazing (particularly with a coated batter with a dot!).
I’ve also got one of their bronze snares, along with a maple and an aluminum kit in big boy sizes: 14/18/24. All of them really are phenomenal. Plus Josh is very helpful and a wealth of information about drum physics. Plus it’s no surprise why Ludwig’s long-needed updated throw looks like INDe’s… Highly, highly recommended!
Nice review, the drum sounds great! I have a snare with an internal muffler but the reason I never use it is the damn thing never stays in place! After 20 minutes of playing, the adjuster knob always unscrews itself, making it completely unusable for me. Don't know if it's something I'm doing wrong or whether it's just a dodgy drum? These days, I like to use dampening rings (different widths for different sounds) - nice clean way to dampen a drum without getting in the way of things like brushes.
I use rings too (seldom, but occasionally). I find the character of an internal muffler is different, though, and it is my preference. I believe internal mufflers (now often called 'tone controls') will make a comeback before too long. Hopefully more refined designs that hold their settings well.
Hi mate, thanks for another fab post. Clearly you really know what you're talking about, as both a player and recording engineer. My main takeaway from this one was the concept of the infinite snare bed- interesting idea. Also intrigued by the rivet joint and how it terminates in the bearing edges- are they lapped? Butted? As an aside, I'd love to see your take on comparing all those lovely Mastercrafts I see behind you... Cheers.
Ha!! Thanks for the kind words. Yes, I do love Tama's Mastercraft series of drums... would be an interesting video... Hmmm..... As for this Kalamazoo drum, the joint is just butted (I think that's the word?)... just the two edges butted up against each other and held in place with another piece of metal overlapping the two (the edges are evenly butted against each other) and riveted, holding it all together. There is practically no gap between the two edges, and the head sits perfectly on the plane of the edge. Tuning is smooth and trouble free. Hope that helps! Thanks so much for chiming in!
Awesome snare sounds awesome never played one but just recently ordered replacement throw off for a Old slingerland one of the nicest throw offs/strainer I’ve ever had adjustable don’t have to drill new holes
Nice drum! Six and eight lug drums do sound more "open." Josh does appear to be "on the money" about lug mass. Mass also really seems to make quite a difference!
Mass is a HUGE factor! Not everyone agrees about whether greater/lesser mass is a positive or a negative, however. Hmmm.... (I, myself, LOVE massive drums ;)
@@drumdotpizza From what I heard Josh say it's the actual vibrating mass that effects sound. Lugs don't vibrate ( or actually damp vibration ) so should be as light as possible...
@@roblake602 Yes, for maximum shell vibration mass (including lugs) should be as low as possible. In fact, more rigid material should be used for lugs, IMO, if shell involvement is desired. Aluminum, for example, is more rigid than most iron-based alloys. Aluminum doesn't bend well... it breaks. It's rigid. Steel-related alloys tend to bend rather than break. Seems to me alunumin, being more rigid, would vibrate with the shell rather than attenuate that vibration. Aluminum is much lighter too. Hmm....
@@drumdotpizza Thanks. The choices on the older version of this style drum were brass, aluminum and stainless. I chose stainless and I chose 15" diameter. D1130002. Heavy Drum, Loud too! I have an extra set of the lugs for experimental use... Great Idea for a podcast
A welded shell will probably not affect the sound if it is properly stress relieved (heat treated) after welding. The stress relieving process will restore the metal in the heat affected zone to its original properties. This is done all the time in mechanical design for structural purposes. The riveted shell should have more damping than the welded shell. It is probably bonded and riveted to reduce damping.
8 lugs 14 inches diameter snares are far from rare nowadays. there are even companies that have them as their top of the line snare drums. like the tama star lines, tama star reserve. and canopus drums pretty much entire snare drum catalog. i personally prefer them because they explode with tone and power. ah yes also dunnett drums favor 8 lugs too. in fact i think he does not like 10 lugs snare drums at all.
16:33. I always thought the internal mufflers went out of favor because some of them rattled and sound engineers hated that. In fact the last time I was in the studio the engineer asked me to remove the muffler from my Supra to keep it from rattling before even hearing the drum. I didn't. It doesn't rattle and I was the one paying for the studio time. I never had a problem with any of the mufflers on any of my snares rattling and I really prefer the convenience of having one built into the drum.
That is a Shure 545 with the Granelli Audio knuckle that they made for the SM57. I prefer the sound of the 545 over the 57 in most cases, but if you try to fit one with the Granelli knuckle you'll have to 1) machine the body of the 545 to remove the material in which the switch is mounted (assuming you're using a 545 with a switch... some older ones don't have the switch, but the current one does), or 2) use the body of a 57 (which I did, since I had one with a bad voice coil, so I sanded it down to the metal, so it looked more like the body of the 545). Stock 545 (modern version) on the bottom of the snare as well. I find the 545, in low impedance mode (how it ships from the factory these days) sounds more natural, less 'pinched' (for lack of a better word?) than the 57. More organic, but still well suited to mid frequency instruments. The Granelli knuckle, btw, makes placement a lot easier. I prefer to put it under the hi hat with the back of the mic (180 degree null) facing the hi hat cymbals, providing great isolation from hi hat bleed. Thanks for being here!
@@drumdotpizza thank you for all that info! I have a splash that usually sits where a snare mix would be placed. But wanted a low profile alternative to put on the snare under the hi hat. It's perfect. I wish they made more like this or more right angle xlrs. This would be mostly for live application. I don't think I ever miss a video, I got all the stuff turned on to let me know. Been following you since you were around 1.2k followers I think. Always love the videos.
I was thinking of making my own metal shells similar to this ( still have yet to finalize the seam closure idea ) ......oh, you're about to talk about the bearing edges now..... But you didn't address my concern, which is, how are those bearing edges on the wear and life of the heads? Especially when tuned high?
I actually had a clip of the drum tuned higher, but my vanity got the best of me... I just didn't like my playing, so didn't include it :( The drum really does tune up high!! Choking the sustain (of course), but incredible 'pop!' Pretty impressive for an 8 lugger!
The is nothing different about the wear on head with this drum compared to any other I have, so far as I can tell. The seam, while visible, technically (the two edges butted against each other) appears to have no effect whatsoever on the heads (even the snare side)... no puckering or visible impact at all. The seam, in practice, is as tight as any other.
@@drumdotpizza 😂 Vanity be damned, brother. Thanks; eventually I'll be looking into shell rolling techniques and processes ( and I'll get one of those crank rollers... harbor freight sells a smaller one ), but good to know a straight edge doesn't cut into the head at all.
Close your eyes and play the drum that sounds best, nothing else matters. These are absolutely kick ass, the most sensitive snare out of the 25 I own. It’s incredible, who gives a shit about rolled and riveted?
@@RustyKnorr I give a shit about rolled and riveted. And that's just me. I'm not knocking the drum, it's just not the way I'd like to have a snare drum put together. Plus, I do not like 8 lug snare drums. That being said, I'm actually considering a kit from Inde with a wood snare with 10 lugs. I enjoyed your review.
Yes, to each his (or her) own! In practice, however, I doubt you would find much fault with tuning/playing this drum. Definitely a case where the whole is greater than the sum of its part! Cheers!
![My Ludwig Black Beauty LIVES despite being destroyed in a house fire 35 years ago [Show & Tell #2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7vP6xjge4iQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I am a long time fan of INDe drums. I currently own an Aluminum shell Wayfarer kit and a 6.5” Aluminum snare that matches beautifully with the kit. The bass, rack and floor Tom of the Wayfarer aluminum weighs less than 25 lbs total ! It sounds magnificent too
Love Inde Drums! I’m glad you’re turning others onto his drums. My Inde aluminum kit is awesome. Love his snares as well.
Having owned one of the maple INDe snares, it was lightweight and resonant. Super-great drum, so imagine the bronze would be great, too.
There is another drum that is (or was) constructed like that - the Slingerland Festival. It was steel and chromed, rolled and welded and riveted. The bearing edge on the Festival was folded over, so double in thickness. The INDe drums are very cool.
I too love 8 lug snares. I feel like they are easier to tune with more range.
It's easier to tune - two screws less😁
Puresound wires are too long, and too heavy. The split wires with no wires in the middle are cool.
I second that internal muffler pov. I agree 120% in fact so much I usually add them the best way I can fashion use the vent hole as access then use evens HD dry vented top heads and it works well so well I had to think of a cheaper way when I upgraded didn't have another apparatus so I removed it from this pearl student steel I have and in stalled the vent grommet back but also equal laterally spaced foam tape to taste. And damn thing was tasty to the point I have adopted that on other drums usually on smooth wall metal in fact only them now I think back on that. Huh well so 130% then I guess I am in chorus or propagated resonance. Back to figuring out this pearl icon rack I just picked up , video idea unless my laziness has betrayed me and you have already which I would say thanks for possibly that one. Either way I vehemently enjoy the channel and I am a 40 year old ludite so I struggle with ease of use of this medium. Why world is it yall dispensed of magazines and thoughtfull mass consumltion narative layouts for the bit driven alla carte nature of UA-cam or web sites in general. I find boundaries and the perverbial boxes helpful in initial learning the world whyd web. Ludite fyi sadly doesn't refer to ludwig which seems like a missed opertunity some how.....
if you could only use two mics what would they be and where
Only two mics on a kit? Probably a D112 (or a good vintage type ribbon) directly in front of the kick a foot or two in front (wherever the low end punches) and a good ribbon overhead, probably 6 feet off the ground pointed at the kick pedal. Tune the drums higher than normal (and use larger diameters if you want lower pitches), so the tone will carry all the way to the mic(s)). I'd do a crap ton of tricks in the mixing, but if the drums are good and well tuned I could likely make that set up work for.a lot of things.
Nice bit of kit
So psyched you reviewed this drum! I’ve had mine for about 2 years and it’s incredible! By far the most sensitive snare I own, and I own a lot! 😂
Your production is amazing as always, can you tell me what cymbals you were using? Especially the crash on the left/hihat side. Those crashes are just magic. ❤
And another Aquarian fan? Dude, you are my freaking HERO!
Thank you for another fantastic video!
what are some old good heavy drums that I should be on the lookout for in the used market?
* Late 70s/early 80s, six-ply Ludwigs
* 70s/80s Tama Superstar
* Almost anything from Pearl in the 80s
* Late 70s through 1980s Sonor Phonic (and even SonorLite, which are much heavier than modern shells).
* Yamaha drums weren't quite as heavy as others in the 80s, but by modern standards they too are quite heavy (I actually have an early set of Yamaha 7000 drums that were made in Taiwan ROC (according to the badges) that are VERY thick and heavy (the kick weighs a TON). They are lauan and something else (not recalling at the moment), and they're wonderful, full-bodied drums with great sustain -- I particularly love the bass drum!
Basically virtually anything that was made in from the late 70s to mid 80s that was six ply or more will be quite heavy compared to modern shells. Veneers used for drum construction were much thicker back then compared to today, so if it's six ply or more from that era you'll likely have a shell with much greater mass compared to anything being made today.
Hope that helps!!
@@drumdotpizza thx, it did help
Sounds good
Got a 14x8 Stainless Steel from Indé.
Can't say enough good things about this drum.
Wasn't super fund of the original Aquarian heads tho so swapped them for some hazy Ambassador (bottom) and CS "X" coated (top). Tried a 42 strand snare wire and still absolutely loving it.
My main remark (not necessarily a negative thing) is about the throw.
All great beside this: it doesn't seem to allow quick ajustement on the fly without disengaging it. But it surely won't ever detune during playing, so...
Great job from Josh, great video Sir.
Excellent review, adding this to the wish list. Kind of an odd question, but what are the shelves you have in the background? They seem to be exactly what I'm looking for.
Sincerely, Joel I love the fact you have dialed into the 12 strand snare wires due to the low mass and your style. I aspire to have that depth of self knowledge. Love the channel and analysis. Enjoyed the physics lesson w/Sonor docs as well.
I'd love to see a WTS tuning setup on one of the INDe snares. Would let you switch tunings really easily.
Th internal muffler does seem to be having a resurgance. If you get the chance check out the Sonor benny greb signature snare they have very interesting internal mufflers.
Great sounding drum at a very affordable price. 👍🤟
Hi Joel that drum sounds great I'm thinking about a walnut snare drum what are your thoughts on that craviotto probably out of my price range Play a Gretsch kit in Hammond organ group cheers
Thanks so much!
While I'm not personally familiar with Craviotto snares or even walnut in particular, I can see by the wood database that walnut has 2/3rd hardness of maple and is less elastic (though wood, in general isn't technically an elastic material). As such I'd suspect it to be maple-like with lighter low end as well as slightly mellower top end and a tad less overall sustain.
A punchy, detailed drum, a bit more mid-focused, but articulate, compared to maple.
I'm actually working on a video about tone woods and their characteristics, which is why I'm willing to make a guess on a walnut snare when I'm personally not familiar with them too much. I should have that video out in a couple of weeks, so that might interest you as I discuss wood characteristics for drum shell construction.
Thanks for the question!!
@@drumdotpizza cool thanks for replying I'm looking forward to the tone woods video
Have you tried this snare with a die cast top hoop?
I have not (I actually don't currently have a die-cast 8-lug hoop to use). I have an 8-lug S-hoop, and should give it a whirl.
I generally don't love die-cast hoops as they fairly require even tension at all lugs to behave well, IMO. And I so often like to detune a couple of lugs a bit just to dial in a bit more 'raw' to the sound. I do love die cast on Tama Mastercraft drums, however. Something about those hoops with that roller bed/extended snare design is just amazing (particularly with a coated batter with a dot!).
@@drumdotpizza I know what you mean. Depends on the drum for me. As a 99% rim shotter that fat crack is usually the priority
I’ve also got one of their bronze snares, along with a maple and an aluminum kit in big boy sizes: 14/18/24. All of them really are phenomenal. Plus Josh is very helpful and a wealth of information about drum physics. Plus it’s no surprise why Ludwig’s long-needed updated throw looks like INDe’s… Highly, highly recommended!
Before Inde they designed hardware for Ludwig Atlas. Same people.
@@ShawnxEdge Yep, I’m aware, that’s why I said it’s no surprise to see the similarities.
I got a Keller big boy kit same size plus 13”. Thin shells, they rock the house!
Plus 8 lug snares will tune lower while keeping tension !!
Nice review, the drum sounds great! I have a snare with an internal muffler but the reason I never use it is the damn thing never stays in place! After 20 minutes of playing, the adjuster knob always unscrews itself, making it completely unusable for me. Don't know if it's something I'm doing wrong or whether it's just a dodgy drum? These days, I like to use dampening rings (different widths for different sounds) - nice clean way to dampen a drum without getting in the way of things like brushes.
I use rings too (seldom, but occasionally). I find the character of an internal muffler is different, though, and it is my preference. I believe internal mufflers (now often called 'tone controls') will make a comeback before too long. Hopefully more refined designs that hold their settings well.
Hi mate, thanks for another fab post. Clearly you really know what you're talking about, as both a player and recording engineer. My main takeaway from this one was the concept of the infinite snare bed- interesting idea. Also intrigued by the rivet joint and how it terminates in the bearing edges- are they lapped? Butted?
As an aside, I'd love to see your take on comparing all those lovely Mastercrafts I see behind you... Cheers.
Ha!! Thanks for the kind words. Yes, I do love Tama's Mastercraft series of drums... would be an interesting video... Hmmm.....
As for this Kalamazoo drum, the joint is just butted (I think that's the word?)... just the two edges butted up against each other and held in place with another piece of metal overlapping the two (the edges are evenly butted against each other) and riveted, holding it all together. There is practically no gap between the two edges, and the head sits perfectly on the plane of the edge. Tuning is smooth and trouble free.
Hope that helps! Thanks so much for chiming in!
Oh my goodness, the tuning kit n this snare and the floor Tom are immaculate! I’m so excited you posted today.
Wow, thanks so much for the kind words!!
Awesome snare sounds awesome never played one but just recently ordered replacement throw off for a Old slingerland one of the nicest throw offs/strainer I’ve ever had adjustable don’t have to drill new holes
I love Josh's strainer design. My fav!!
Nice drum! Six and eight lug drums do sound more "open." Josh does appear to be "on the money" about lug mass. Mass also really seems to make quite a difference!
Mass is a HUGE factor! Not everyone agrees about whether greater/lesser mass is a positive or a negative, however.
Hmmm.... (I, myself, LOVE massive drums ;)
@@drumdotpizza From what I heard Josh say it's the actual vibrating mass that effects sound. Lugs don't vibrate ( or actually damp vibration ) so should be as light as possible...
@@roblake602 Yes, for maximum shell vibration mass (including lugs) should be as low as possible. In fact, more rigid material should be used for lugs, IMO, if shell involvement is desired.
Aluminum, for example, is more rigid than most iron-based alloys. Aluminum doesn't bend well... it breaks. It's rigid. Steel-related alloys tend to bend rather than break. Seems to me alunumin, being more rigid, would vibrate with the shell rather than attenuate that vibration. Aluminum is much lighter too.
Hmm....
@@drumdotpizza Thanks. The choices on the older version of this style drum were brass, aluminum and stainless. I chose stainless and I chose 15" diameter. D1130002. Heavy Drum, Loud too! I have an extra set of the lugs for experimental use... Great Idea for a podcast
This is a very cool snare drum
I always add a Ludwig muffler in all my new snares. It's hard to believe my new Ludwig supraphonic came without one.
A welded shell will probably not affect the sound if it is properly stress relieved (heat treated) after welding. The stress relieving process will restore the metal in the heat affected zone to its original properties. This is done all the time in mechanical design for structural purposes. The riveted shell should have more damping than the welded shell. It is probably bonded and riveted to reduce damping.
8 lugs 14 inches diameter snares are far from rare nowadays. there are even companies that have them as their top of the line snare drums. like the tama star lines, tama star reserve. and canopus drums pretty much entire snare drum catalog. i personally prefer them because they explode with tone and power. ah yes also dunnett drums favor 8 lugs too. in fact i think he does not like 10 lugs snare drums at all.
16:33. I always thought the internal mufflers went out of favor because some of them rattled and sound engineers hated that. In fact the last time I was in the studio the engineer asked me to remove the muffler from my Supra to keep it from rattling before even hearing the drum. I didn't. It doesn't rattle and I was the one paying for the studio time. I never had a problem with any of the mufflers on any of my snares rattling and I really prefer the convenience of having one built into the drum.
What is that snares mic? Really love that right angle
That is a Shure 545 with the Granelli Audio knuckle that they made for the SM57. I prefer the sound of the 545 over the 57 in most cases, but if you try to fit one with the Granelli knuckle you'll have to 1) machine the body of the 545 to remove the material in which the switch is mounted (assuming you're using a 545 with a switch... some older ones don't have the switch, but the current one does), or 2) use the body of a 57 (which I did, since I had one with a bad voice coil, so I sanded it down to the metal, so it looked more like the body of the 545).
Stock 545 (modern version) on the bottom of the snare as well.
I find the 545, in low impedance mode (how it ships from the factory these days) sounds more natural, less 'pinched' (for lack of a better word?) than the 57. More organic, but still well suited to mid frequency instruments.
The Granelli knuckle, btw, makes placement a lot easier. I prefer to put it under the hi hat with the back of the mic (180 degree null) facing the hi hat cymbals, providing great isolation from hi hat bleed.
Thanks for being here!
@@drumdotpizza thank you for all that info! I have a splash that usually sits where a snare mix would be placed. But wanted a low profile alternative to put on the snare under the hi hat. It's perfect. I wish they made more like this or more right angle xlrs. This would be mostly for live application.
I don't think I ever miss a video, I got all the stuff turned on to let me know. Been following you since you were around 1.2k followers I think. Always love the videos.
Very nice review!
I love steel and aluminium...never played copper or bronze snares. Too expensive. Should I save money? Are them really something different?
Same here. Brass is so bright and ringy, not into them usually
Q drums has been doing shells like this for many years, riveted. As well VK drums from the UK.
They were using rivets to make drums in the 20’s as well, and probably before
Nice overview on a great drum!!
Beauty indeed, and I love that ( seemingly ) riveted seam.
I personally prefer the feel and high tunability of 10 and 12 lug snares, but I too was struck at how high this drum tuned with only 8 lugs.
I was thinking of making my own metal shells similar to this ( still have yet to finalize the seam closure idea ) ......oh, you're about to talk about the bearing edges now..... But you didn't address my concern, which is, how are those bearing edges on the wear and life of the heads? Especially when tuned high?
I actually had a clip of the drum tuned higher, but my vanity got the best of me... I just didn't like my playing, so didn't include it :(
The drum really does tune up high!! Choking the sustain (of course), but incredible 'pop!' Pretty impressive for an 8 lugger!
The is nothing different about the wear on head with this drum compared to any other I have, so far as I can tell. The seam, while visible, technically (the two edges butted against each other) appears to have no effect whatsoever on the heads (even the snare side)... no puckering or visible impact at all. The seam, in practice, is as tight as any other.
@@drumdotpizza 😂 Vanity be damned, brother. Thanks; eventually I'll be looking into shell rolling techniques and processes ( and I'll get one of those crank rollers... harbor freight sells a smaller one ), but good to know a straight edge doesn't cut into the head at all.
The rolled and riveted is a turn off to me and I prefer a 10 lug snare drum. That being said the drum did sound very good.
Close your eyes and play the drum that sounds best, nothing else matters. These are absolutely kick ass, the most sensitive snare out of the 25 I own. It’s incredible, who gives a shit about rolled and riveted?
@@RustyKnorr I give a shit about rolled and riveted. And that's just me. I'm not knocking the drum, it's just not the way I'd like to have a snare drum put together. Plus, I do not like 8 lug snare drums. That being said, I'm actually considering a kit from Inde with a wood snare with 10 lugs. I enjoyed your review.
@@dancalabrese3523 Yup, it’s just you.
@@RustyKnorr And just me is all that matters to me.
Yes, to each his (or her) own! In practice, however, I doubt you would find much fault with tuning/playing this drum. Definitely a case where the whole is greater than the sum of its part!
Cheers!
8 lug snares are the best!