3D Printed Vacuum Powered Boat
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- My second attempt at building a vacuum-powered boat, if only it was easier the second time....
Thanks to PCBWAY for sponsoring this video and providing the resin printed planetary gear set. Be sure to check them out for your next project at www.pcbway.com/
The whole bevel gear situation is the exact reason why differential housings on cars are so incredibly beefy.
except when they break. lol
Noted, add extra beef to bevel gear housing
@@kurzey8532have a bevel gear housing is probably the first step. Translation of rotating forces is probably the single most annoying problem in gearbox design. make a full housing that attaches to the planetary gear train directly. One solid block. No bridges nothing. Working in PLA you're already kinda at the materials limit.
True
@kurzey8532 tbh 3d printed materials are weak af.... you need to beef anything that gets loaded.
I built a 3d printed cnc, shit took 5 generations to get to a level that's kinda close to ender 3 accuracy 😂 everything Is like thick PETG and everything is like a kelio of plastic 😂
That is a beautiful looking hull. Maybe double it's length so the gearbox can sit down behind the syringes or in front. Either way, so they are down below the water line. Adding an extra section or two into the middle of the hull to stretch it will also increase your buoyancy, maybe enough to allow you to add some lead in the keel to ensure stability by dropping the centre of gravity even further.
Better make a catamaran and suspend the mechanism inbetween the hulls.
Maybe set the gearbox under the syringes if he wants to keep the short length; I'm sure the gearbox is heavier than the syringe assembly. It would also allow a direct drive, eliminating the bevel transmission all together.
Great idea, more buoyancy and solve the issue of high centre of mass. Only issue is additional weight, she's a heavy ol girl already
I think the only issue of extra weight would be acceleration, it would take longer to get moving. The extra buoyancy might even cancel that out as it won't be sitting as low in the water which means it has less water to push out of the way. This is all just observation, I cannot speak from a position of experience in boat hull design@@kurzey8532
@@kurzey8532 To add to this - if you do end up starting from scratch with the hull, try planning the contents then find an existing hull profile to match the dimensions such that the mechanism sits nicely below the gunwales. Plans/models are available with a little Googling. Unless you're trying to innovate with hull design, it saves a lot of headaches to stick to known quantities and make adjustments where required 😅
this is a brilliant video man, it fully captures the hells of an inventor, fail after fail after fail and redesign after redesign after redesign,
i really appreciate the footage of the design, it really shows a few hundred hours worth of work
And like a lot of unknown unsuccessful inventor, it all start with a non-viable idea.
Here, this is an exception, the useless toy idea is here to make YT views, not to be sold. Well... I hope so!
This was SO painful to watch. Can't wait for the next one! Subscribed.
I wish your channel could explode in popularity like tom stanton, integza, rc channels. Keep it up
Also, i think most of your struggles with assembling the boat is that it has so many moving and not moving parts.
Its cliché but simplicity is a engineering principle.
Should always KISS.....Keep It Simple Stupid
Legit sounds like Tom stanton... like as if they went to the same schools growing up with each other with whatever part of England they're from.
@@heftycat Also RC Flite test =)
Don't be disheartened - you do a good job of keeping your viewers engaged by describing each problem with admirable concision coupled with commendable thoroughness ( no easy feat) and then describing the solution. Then you get cross because something else stops working, and all the while you're imperceptibly inching towards ironing out all the problems.
Then again, it's sensible to know when to devote your time and yellow filament to something else.
Very pretty hull, though...
It really does look promising. I would guess metal shafts would reduce a good bit of the flex.
As for the balance, what about having the syringes on the top and the heavier drivetrain inside the hull. Added bonus is that it would be closer the prop shaft and maybe simplify that design as well.
I enjoyed the video. Failures and all. This was a much more realistic experience and showed amazing perseverance. Almost makes me wanna work on the huge 3d printed project I’ve been 90% done with for a year, almost.
Do it!
I mean, just watching this, you are building your gear mounts as this massive patchwork. All the different parts and pieces, some attached to the hill, some attached to this mount and some attached to the gearbox, theres so much slop that its no wonder everything moves. Pick something, and ase all the mounts off it, I suggest the gearbox. Maybe print the last gear cover to include a mount for the bevel gears. Also, lubricate your gears. You will e astonished how much friction is generated from 3d printed planetary gears (I built a battlebot that runs off resin printed gears and at 10k RPM they would physically melt through the PLA carriers/supports without lube. Lubricated, no degridation at all. If the gears move smoothly it could reduce the forces put on the shafts you keep bending and breaking.
Flip entire thing around so you don't need a belt and to get a better center of gravity. Make the hull wider and try the crown gears, like the ones used in cheap plastic RC cars
@@CenReaperYT.Good idea and helical crown and pinion just like car differentials use would be reduce cogging and spread/smooth the forces.
"Roughly six hyppos... or one of your mo-" 💀
Find some broken printers. They have really nice lengths of tool steel shafting in them, and you can usually find broken printers for free. Plastic shafts are just not going to cut it, especially on a design relying on such high torque. Also try to mount your radio battery as low in the hull as you can, and look at the keels on sailboats to help keep her from listing to port and ship shape. Great stuff, don't give up!
Amazing video! I must say it's a welcome change of pace to see a project that just feels so real. No fancy cuts in the timeline, no impeccable 3D prints on the first try, and a lot of silly editing thrown in to boot. It almost feels like I could try this for myself! Excellent job.
Stand the cylinders up as they (assumably) weigh less than the transmission and this will also correct the angle thereby eliminating the bevel gears
My idea would be to change the orientation of the syringes to get rid of the bevel gears.
It's nice to see the challenges of such a project and not just a finished result like in many videos from other folks.
This video has deserves way more views and likes. Maximum effort!!!
I hope you continue to pursue this project. One thing I would certainly suggest is moving the center of gravity to the lowest point possible. As for the gearing and other things, I will leave that to people much better suited to comment.
Wait, what ?? Only 7K subscribers ?? 😳😳 *UNDERRATED CHANNEL* !
BTW, maybe you should add a "cage" around the bevel gears. These stinky mofos are incredibly good at wrecking things because of the surprisingly big amounts of force/torque they produce. Also, the planetary gears should be layed at the bottom of the hull. In your configuration, they put too much weight on a high place and it ruins the balance of your ship (she wants to capsize). Also, if you like glass fiber and epoxy, you should make a hull in fibers 😅. I hope it helps you. Sorry my english is as good as the first reel of plastic you used at the beginning of the video 😂
for some cases a catamaran boat is the better base.
Did you calculate the forces the gears are experiencing?
I think you'll find it's a lot more than you thought.
Also, a ball-governor may be needed to keep a constant rpm on the prop in the end...
You calculated over 12 kg to pull just one of the plungers back. That means you're pulling back two plungers with 24 kg. That's a lot of torque on the small gears and those small brackets you're using to keep them in place. Send piece of mild steel with some holes in it would probably be better. You should also consider steel shafts for all the torque transfer.
The water will self govern if it does not cavitate, the prop size could be increased a bit to slow the shaft RPM.
Instead of immediately winding up the strings from the pistons and then trying to transmit the torque via bevel gears, make the strings go over a vertical pulley at the bottom onto horizontal winches in the same axis as the gearbox.
While you're at it, swap the heavy gearbox to the bottom and the literally empty pistons to the top
I made almost the same suggestion. It was a bit painful to see him using DIY gears system to go around corners when the gut does it for free.
Lower Your Center Of Gravity , Make The Vessel Larger 🎉🎉🎉🎉
This is the first video of yours I've seen and I can already say I'm proud of you. You persevered, learned from mistakes and eventually realised it's time to move on.
brilliant video, thanks for showing us the whole process-most youtubers wouldn't show the process involved in their inventions but trial and error is part of every science experiment. keep on trying, when it finally works out the joy you'll experience is indescribable..
PS: maybe try mounting the heavy gears as low as possible- hopefully in the line of transmission so that you can do away with the gears at the end and mount the cylinders high up. it will help ith your CG too
The biggest problem I see is that the gear train is stressed in both directions.
A clutch right behind the syringes could help a lot.
Release clutch, charge syringes, engage clutch, run boat.
Also, the pulley and long propeller shaft are unnecessary. Make the planetary gearboxes the prop shaft, at a slight angle if needed. Put the syringes on top of that.
I'm relieved that it's not just me that goes absolutely insane troubleshooting a design. "Iterative design", they call it. Always use flux when soldering, it makes all the difference, and soldering large pieces of brass like that requires a thick chisel tip.
I'd simplify a lot: planetary gears down in the hull directly connected to the propshaft, big spool on the input side, translate the 90 degrees to the syringes on top by leading the string over rollers to get them into position. That should work better for actual operation but leave "recharging" a PITA. Maybe design the front detachable for recharging or use a higher angle for the propshaft to planetary input line to keep easier access for recharging?
Also, trimaran hull for stability? Should be an easy addon for anything you decide to make.
Use the planetary gear set or 2-3 from a dead cordless drill and just carve a boat from foam and fiberglass it. Quicker, stronger, more compact and lighter. No point making a planing type hull with high drag at low speed and less interior room and buoyancy.
I think the main problem is that the forces you're dealing with are way too high. Maybe using a separate reduction stage per syringe would help, but that's gonna be bulky.. Good luck and don't give up!
you can elimilte the bevel gear by jusing pullys to bendt the fishingline 90 degrees so you can mount the reels inline with the gaerbox.
COOL video.
What if instead of parallel to the hull, you mounted the tubes/pistons vertically (think smokestacks on an old steamship) and used a rack and pinion system to directly convert the linear motion into circular motion? this would allow you to easily achieve a desired gear ratio and eliminate the need for bevel-gears as all forces would be in line. Moreover, either using a paddlewheel or a system like a Thai "long--tail boat" could eliminate the need to seal the prop shaft.
Keep up the great work!
lowering the centre of gravity will likely help with the stability, the syringes are likely lighter than the motor parts, placing them on top in a light mount could be the solution.
I also might just slice the boat in half and add another long middle section. This will help with buoyancy and the likely larger weight you will have to add.
By putting the gearbox lower, and possibly extending the length, you also could have an inline shaft. Most boats, and especially the ones I have worked on with inboards such as yours, have a direct connection from motor to transmission to prop shaft. I think you could eliminate parts and points of friction and failure. Possibly getting rid of the bevel gears and the belt altogether.
It appears that the bevel gears are there because of the need to have the pistons at certain angles. Because the syringes are light you could orient them vertically or use pulleys rather than gears to get the string to pull the transmission input shaft at the correct angle. I envision two pulleys, one on either side of the transmission. Again the extended length would make this easier.
The one downside to orienting anything vertically is that it will act as a sail, so watch out for that!
Sometimes you need to stop modifying your design and just restart.
Place the planetary gest set in the hull and the syringes above it. The syringes are the star of the show anyway.
bro this was amazing!!! 😆😆😆 keep making videos hahahahaaaa
you need to dehumidify your spools. As they get moist over time due to atmospheric moisture print quality goes down the drain. Also when it comes to boat engineering, have the heavy parts at the bottom/lowest in the boat, not on top. Love your videos btw, you have the tortured artist wibe down quite good. :) Your ready to call it quits but your mind keep torturing you with ideas and tweaks you just have to fiddle with? :)
I did try drying it multiple times for several hours at a time! I think the roll was past the point of no return.
I very much have that mindset of tweaking and fixing things 🤣 said to myself this is the last fix about 5 times lol
Sub!!! We gotta make this channel go viral!!🎉
You’re in it. This is what making/inventing looks like. Thank you for being real in it. I had one idea for the bevel gears: a right angle housing that holds both shafts in place. Since both gears are on the end of a rod, that rod has flexibility between where the teeth mesh and where the rods are being held. If the bevel gears are being held stationary at both ends of the rod there should be less rod flex?
Yes it definitely needs a more solid housing!
the "hello i am under the water" really got me
anyway, great video, i liked the amount of detail you went to with explaining things, it wasnt too basic so that it would be boring but it wasnt too much that you wouldnt understand whats going on either. Personally im a pro at giving up on projects and i think this one might just not be worth continuing, i think the forces are too high for 3d printing(not too high as in impossible to do but more like too high to be worth bothering with) and the high amount of friction might mean it'll be very underwhelming once it does work. However i do admire your commitment.
So once again, great video and im excited for the next one.
The unde water meme tickled me for a good minute - also thought the video was pretty top notch for a small subscriber count creator - definitely deserves more attention
If you redesign the hull and mount the planetary gears at the bottom this will lower the center of gravity and allow you to drive the propeller directly from the output of the planetary gears. A shaft mounted in parallel above the planetary gears can be connected via a belt or gear set to the input side of the planetary gears. You could then mount the syringes vertically and wind their draw strings onto the shaft.
Only two gears cogs are necessary, no bevel gears. A turnkey can be added to the shaft, or the shaft could be wound using the gear cog on it (with your drill).
Yeah, air is light, and lack of air is lighter. Better store the light stuff up on each side leaving the middle bottom for the gears.
Same thought - the boat's powertrain design is upside down. Another benefit of putting the gearbox at the bottom of the boat is that you can build its bracing into the hull, adding structural rigidity.
My initial reasoning for putting it up higher was because I wanted a somewhat sleak boat hull and the planetary gears are fat so wouldnt be possible....but you're absolutely right it would be better off in the bottom to keep COM low
@@kurzey8532Have you considered going to a catamaran-type design with pontoons holding a platform for the gearbox and power? A multihull boat might give you the combination of a sleeker profile while having a large enough platform for your components.
@@kurzey8532 Yep, nobody likes a tippy boat 😜
That filament kinda looks like it was wet when it was printing.
I did dry it 3 or 4 times but kept having the same issues
I reaaaally think you need to treat yourself to a new printer..... get a bambu p1s, you'll be able to iterate designs so much faster with MUCH better quality.
Get a kayak and a winch and scale it up
You're already using a basic pulley system by using the fishing line and the axle as the spool for the line so why not eliminate the entire bevel gear set and replace it with a 90 degree pulley making the drive shaft of the planetary gear the the spool of the fishing line.
Also try using a braided fishing line as nylon has high plastic deformation before failure.
For the stability of the boat make the keel of the boat heavier so it will lower the center gravity of the boat and make it more stable. Lead is a good material as it is more dense compared to other metals and will require less space.
a tri-maran?
i feel like the syringes could go to left and right, ending up in a swimming foot. then the slow end axle of the gearbox is the winding spool - and the gearbox points downwards in some 20-30° angle to the rear of the setup with a third swimming foot, the ships screw and the rudder.... sound much easier and just with some spacer bars well in shape without any force despite the very front central spool.
@@alexanderstohr4198 @alexanderstohr4198 No. Not a trimaran. I did not mention any description that would suggest a trimaran or any other design of any boat.
Just the same boat with heavier keel for stabilization. The syringes would not deflect as the pulling force will be inline to the direction of the syringe actuation.
I admire your perseverance 😎, I think I'd have given up sooner 😂
I did quit several times to be fair 🤣
I designed and built a pretty good windup boat for my son. It uses two chainsaw motor recoil springs and handles a lot of force. I use steal rods for all the shafts, of which there are three.
IIRC, the final gear ratio was 1:50.
It can go about 50 feet and turned out to be far too dangerous for my four year old son. The prop could take off a finger if it ran out of the water.
2:38 I made it into the video!
I think the use of a crown and lantern gear setup could reduce the propensity of the gears to cam apart. Alternatively, an idler pulley could be used to change the syringe capstan axis 90 degrees to be aligned with the gearbox.
1. Larger hull with a balast keel you can switch out easily (for triming and stability) with 2 bolts. Like a Sailboat.
2. Make the hull from fibre glass
3. Aluminium brackets that hold stuff together, because the 3D printed stuff obviously is not up for it + steel shafts that transfer the torque
But cool project, despite failure so far.
Looks like a neat concept. I'm surprised you're using such low infill for parts that are expected to see the loads they are. I'd be printing with 80-100% infill for these, 8 walls. Looks like you are 20% or less. That will make for weak parts.
This is the content of many contences! Example: to be so in to the details, that cannot see the big issue (balance) that is very teaching content ,thank you!
why dont you use a cvt
hes back!!!!!!!!!!
Great video. Unfortunately, you have passed the limit of 3d printing (with plastics) in my unprofessional opinion.
What I'd do for the next step, in the spirit of the channel, is getting something like 2mm aluminium (or steel, even stronger) and bending some brackets (setting up an edge makes it plenty rigid). It'll be relatively easy to manufacture (when you account for your means of production,) and not that expensive.
I remember installing a chainsaw/weedeater engine in a 6' fiberglass over wood hull.
Lots of lessons learned.
1 When you launch everyone gets off the water as fast as possible because you're prop could easily cut everyone else's boat in half. 😂
2 the best muffler is the silicone tube stolen from a coffee pot. ALL SOLID MOUNT PIPES WILL FAIL.
3 A 1/8" FIBERGLASS over 1/8" plywood will easily survive full throttle impact with a tree 30' on shore.
4 Regular hardware silicon makes excellent attachments for engine to hull because it absorbs some vibration.
Bolts NO Screws NO. They just vibrate holes in the hull. 😢
Do not give up.
Have you looked at early compressed air motors for torpedos? Also consider testing filaments for the best torque loads. Just a thought. Projects like yours keeps me shy of 3d printing. I am just a self trained machinist/ watch maker, though with 60 years of practice.
I think you’re designing the 3D printed brackets as if they were metal. No need for cutouts with cross braces, just make solid. I first started designing drone parts with cutouts for lightness but in many instances it has the opposite effect. Cutouts make extra walls, use more filament, increase print time and make the part more flexible. Better design the part ‘bulky’ but with light infill. Try the make the gearbox end and gear carrier as one part so there is no relative movement. 3D printed shafts are completely useless. Keep going pal. Nice vid.
When I make 3d printed planetary gearbox I use thecatalystis planetary gearbox simulator to first check how many teeth on the gears to use. Then removing 1 teeth off of the planet gear and placing it exactly between the sun gear and ring gear. It works all the time on first try.
Use normal straight cut gears. Helical gears isnt worth it and make the same noise.
Its great to finally see some content where the creator is working with same equipment as myself........... I mean having 3d scanners, a rack of bambus, and 3 cnc mills is cool but I cant pull that off with my 3v2 and caliper! cheers!
Well, nice project still!
I'd look into a metal (aluminium strip for example) brace to couple the geartrain to the 90-degrees bearing and use some screwrods instead of 3D-printed rods for the shafts.
Other things, make use of a .2mm nozzle instead of the .4mm so you can get finer details and maybe use other materials like PETG or Nylon which your printer both can handle well too.
For the stability: get some weight or maybe just put a led kiel below it when you want to go 'full water'. With a 'heavy' (for the size) camera on top, well, even more chances for tumbling over.
But, really like your ideas.
Wind the vacuum chamber from the opposite side. The gear where you are trying to charge needs to withstand both frictional force and air pressure. The closer it is to the vacuum chamber, the easier it will be on gear. Print it with an inch ledge so it won't sink easily.
Best thing I did was get rid of the Ender 3 and buy a Bambu lab printer. Ender 3 is for people that love 3D printers, Bambu lab printers are for people that love 3D printing.
Your red PETG probably got wet causing quasi-clogs in the nozzle. The yellow PETG blobbing and stringing also from moisture. Sometimes PETG can come wet and it will never work well until you dry it with heat and desiccant.
PETG is also far more sensitive to repeated retraction as most types are a bit malleable, especially as it absorbs water. I think this also partially attributable to the failures you were seeing.
If possible I would look into ASA. It's more forgiving than PETG IME but requires an all metal hot end and enclosure.
There's a big difference between designing parts, and designing parts for 3D printing. Your design skills are evident and just need a little tweaking. Print orientation and choosing the correct materials is the next hurdle along with tuning your printer to avoid blobs and stringing for dimensional accuracy. For gears I like PCTG, PC-ABS, or even CoPA if you/your printer is up to it. Keep it up. You'll be rewarded with a nice looking properly functional model.
Suggestions on how to improve this design: I have a list (I am sorry) this project was simply so inspiring I couldn't help but come up with ways to build on your design.
1: Buoyancy & Balance
Add pontoons to either side of the boat to stop it from tipping over, I have found that simply using old water bottles works remarkably well. They're watertight, round, and hey, you're recycling. Simply printing some supports that shoot off the sides of the boat that you can zip-tie the water bottles to should work great.
2: Gear Train:
I would suggest using a Cycloidal drive as a gear reduction, they're compact, far less complicated than planetary gearboxes, and are also operate with significantly less friction. Here are some excellent videos that demonstrate 3D printed cycloidal drives:
ua-cam.com/video/OsS9-FzKN6s/v-deo.html&ab_channel=HowToMechatronics
ua-cam.com/video/Ur2eBNMfZIA/v-deo.html&ab_channel=rctestflight
Additionally, if you are insistent on using a planetary gearbox, using some grease would help to massively reduce friction, and consequently reduce excess stress in the drive train as well.
3: Overall design:
Perhaps experimenting with making a hull out of foam board could be beneficial? It's far cheaper than 3D filament, and construction would be significantly less time consuming than waiting for your printer to finish the entire hull. You could 3D print ribs/spars to shape the foam board around, which could also serve as attachment points for onboard systems, and then waterproof the foam board afterwards with paint/spray. Ik that learning an entirely new hull construction method is a bit of a stretch for some random person in a youtube comments section to suggest, but increasing the size of the boat would massively help with the cramping issues you were experiencing.
Regardless of whether you see this comment or not, I wish you luck on your future 3D printing endeavors. May your prints be smooth, and your nozzles clear. 🫡
It was an interesting journey to follow, if a painful one.
Aside from the already mentioned bevel gear housing, maybe it's worth it to use a flexible shaft coupling instead.
Although that would definitely take away from the design challenge that is making the bevel gears work under the high torque load.
Unless you don't mind scrapping your current hull you could make some floaters off to the side to keep it from tipping over, like the "blades"(?) on a catamaran.
Depending on their buoyancy (force) and distance from the hull (lever) they can "fix" a high centre of mass at the cost of more drag.
Great video! Here's an idea for improvement: maximizing the diameter of the bevel gears could be beneficial. Increasing the lever arm reduces the forces involved while maintaining constant torque transfer. Alternatively, eliminating the 90° turn in the gears and having the fishing wire navigate that turn could be a superior solution. By mirroring the gears transferring torque to the gearbox on both sides of the shaft, forces could be balanced, simplifying your input to just torque.
Regarding the hull design, it looks impressive, but you chose a planing hull designed for high-speed gliding. A displacement hull might be more suitable. You could achieve this by reducing the rounded corners to stabilize the boat, utilizing the counteracting momentum generated when the boat leans to one side. Alternatively, a V-shaped hull could be beneficial, allowing for the placement of heavy items like batteries deep underwater, akin to a keel. The beneficial sideeffect is that displacement hulls are also more efficient for your application.
Can't wait to for the next version, it is great to watch your iterative improvement process!
So I have a recommendation for some of the quality improvements. Have the torque be more evenly distributed. So basically Have 2 shafts, one for each vacuum tube. Keep them as one connected part and this'll maybe somewhat stabilize the movement, at least from side to side, and evenly distribute the torque being generated
I would actually have to fully design it on CAD here because you completely messed up on so many levels, it would take years to explain them all.
That said, I FULLY APPLAUD your tenacity!
First thing first, *LARGER* hull.
Second, I think it's best to make a "syringe battery". You vacuum out the syringes while not on the boat and then put them into the boat after they're vacuumed.
Your contents are great! Keep them coming!
This video is torture. I really wish you would show some more effort in predicting the effects of the magnitude and direction of forces and the different material properties involved, instead of haphazardly throwing all the parts together and patching every next weakest link. This is not a dig btw, just some constructive criticism. I respect the hustle and genuinely want to see you succeed with this and future projects. Good luck!
On another note, I'm curious to know how many seconds of thrust or how much distance travelled would make you consider this a success... I wouldn't expect much from 14.7psi along a few inches of stroke.
....Or you could accept that the surface finish expectations of most of the community are unrealistic (what do you expect from armchair engineers....) and develop a finishing step for your gear teeth faces and air cylinder gasket interfaces?
Also, my dude.....you gotta watch some engineering videos on the motion of forces through gear arrangements and bearings.....Like....cmon man.....they dont magically push sideways on the teeth......gotta take into account all possible motion and force vectors, not just the vectors you want ;)
Welders know that IF you apply direct pressure the blister will not rise. So some run the wound under cold water for a moment and then hold a finger's pressure on the wound. (Next time it happens to me I will apply an ice cube and then run the cold water on it. The water would prevent freezing damage. (IN THEROY)
The amount of failures and yet you still kept on going xD That's tough, I've been through projects like that and just want to quit. Sometimes they get the best of you, but then 6 months down the road you'll wake up one day and be like... Or I could try this. Hope you revisit some day, I've sub'd
Have you considered using silicone lubricant in the syringe? Petroleum based lube might deteriorate the rubber and plastics.
I don't know if lubricating the gear train will be better or worse. Either a very lightweight silicone or maybe a graphite powder lubricant wouldn't gum it up.
Heavy gauge fishing line is not very flexible, so can use up some of the available energy. You can try using a thinner line or appropriately sized string, twine or ribbon.
For such a low RPM, consider using a much larger propeller.
i think your main problem was not taking into consideration the various forces from the beginning. if you would have braced and supported the gears properly from the get go you wouldn't have so many problems. also why not have the gearbox at the bottom and the syringe on top? instead of building the boat haul to incorporate the things inside you should have just had the hull separate from the various frames and things. it is more bulky yes, but way more versatile.
If you want mechanical advantage with low friction, low mass, and low complexity with robustness, it's hard to beat a lever. Say 2 long CF tubes for balance. Now you need to translate that to the prop use fishing line tied to the end of the lever and wound around the prop shaft. It's wacky, but not compared to this planetary gear build.
since it's a friction fit anyway, you'd probably have better luck with the prop shaft going through an o-ring set into a depression you can model into the propeller shaft channel. Since the metal sleeve isn't rotating, it won't add any drag to the system.
Ok brain storm, move the hydraulics chambers into two side floats giving it more mass on the water, used the normal chamber pull it back each side via hand i.e. "lift out pop back in", " there not . UNDER ANY STRAIN, and gravity is lowered. and you can use nylon tube so it cannot implode . add a controlled release valve your going to loose some suction but you will get less gear thrust = less brakeage. beta a drive out of a bike brake cable "think Dremel tool cable drive" add this idea to prop drive in fact you could use this in many way to drive your craft even to spin up some power dc to run a small motor to prop .the options are endless taking it to make power dc or small stepper to stepper drive using your concept of how you want your craft all things have been used before but its a fun project and very viewable thank you for sharing and keeping this alive is this a re post of you i do not what to be typing to reposts
You are transferring the greatest force with gut and then converting it to rotary to go around corners and combine two sources.
I can see you mean well but do not have an instinctive feel on the forces involved in gearbox design.
I could suggest you replace the first combiner and bevel gears with, NOTHING. Just direct the gut to wrap around a metal input shaft on the planetary gearbox and save a lot of grief it is flexible anyway and can go around corners as easily as wrapping around a shaft. There are grooved bearings that can be used to change direction with almost no friction..
Using 3D printed metal gears for the first stage might be required to get any performance.
Adjusting the top belt pulley to as large as possible, sized to take up belt tension, will increase your gearing for no extra loss and possibly permit you to remove one stage of the planetary.
Another comment suggested having an inline arrangement, this makes sense to lower the centre of gravity. It would also allow you to use three, perhaps 4 syringes.
Wow, the amount of good work! I just don't get why you design 3D-printed parts that needs to have at least some strength so thin/and or small. Increasing the dimensions can make parts much stronger, even with the same amount of material, up to some point. That's one of the biggest advantages of 3D-printing functional parts, that you can make things that have big dimensions, but are mostly hollow, where the infill essentially acts as bracing for the skin. Also, the bigger the parts, the more absolute errors get "diluted", as, if you printer prints some things say 0.1 mm smaller than the design, no matter the size of the part, that error will matter less the bigger the part is, in most cases. Things like axles and gears can benefit greatly from being as big as they can be. Well, increasing the size of gear teeth alone in absurdum isn't an elegant solution, making the overall size of gear wheels, and axles can be beneficial.
Also, supporting gear axles at both sides of the gear wheels might be a good idea.
Would a paddle wheel design have been to easy? I mean, just a few steps of straight gearing, and no change in direction, much lower rpm requirement with a big paddle wheel, and no need to transfer the power through the hull below the water line.
Maby instead of the fishing line going straight out to this part 5:24, you could put a horizontal (metal) pipe, with some sort of rolling part on. So that you can make the 90° upward turn with the fishing, instead of the bevel gear. 😊
Great job! I think your only problem is that Makita drill. Swap it out for a DeWalt, and you will be good to go. And the color will match. Lol
Personally, I would put the planetary gears as low as possible in the hull and have the syringes higher up, they are lighter after all. I would probably make the frame that holds all the gears out of metal as PLA isn't very strong. You must also try to optimize the design in CAD to make sure that you minimize flex and parts moving.
Also, in order for a boat to be stable the center of gravity must be the below the center of rotation, you can either add ballast low down or change the geometry of the hull.
yooo cool, like your workflow, reiterating thourgh design done in chaotic impulsive fuck everything and hope it will work as good as it looks in cad adhd manner is a little hobby of mine. I have used ender 3 for many years, recently got bambu not saying bambu is only option but seeing your struggle with ender consider upgrading it, its amazing how it makes work on projects easier
Be careful when you let go of the "piston" part if you pull it out all the way. The piston can smash through the end of the syringe, maybe not the first time, but eventually... Ask me how I know 😂 great model mate too! 👍👍
perseverance and indefatigably!! My admiration is boundless, true stick-ability!!! By the way, your bevel gears need to be in the one shell, that way they cannot skip teeth! :)
If your design does not work, start all over, you now know the bevel gears won't hold high torque, so start again from scratch. Trying to fix every little problem will take way more time. Take what you learn and try again.
I love that you include moments of being a dumb ass hurting yourself....making mistakes...we all make them....real shit bro. 😅
i dont get how that ender prints so badly...ive never had a single problem with the basic ender 3..not a single layershift,single blob or failure to adhere..like i get the best print quality on mine...best thing is no calibration im still using the default pla setting in cura 3D..i think its due to assembly..i didnt follow the instruction as they were very counter intuitive for anyone that knows what forces are exerted on the machine so i built it in different order than most tutorials..i cant emphasize this enough..not a single failure in 3+years..not a defect nothing prints smooth and shiny with no stringing..sometimes i see prints off of high end printers and think to myself that it looks the same as from my old ender 3..anyways awesome build!!!
I would use the modularity of your hull to extend it for another section. Maybe flip the gearbox 180 degrees and shorten the prop shaft and drive it directly. Putting the heavy gearbox low in the hull. In a longer design you could spool both syringes from the same rod.
The fuel storage system doubles as a floatation device - so if you spring a leak off shore, you have the option of steaming for land and sinking faster, or staying put and floating for longer. Would make for some interesting tradeoffs!
first get some packing tape
the kind with reinforcing fiberglass strands.
cut the belt at an angle instead
of straight across. like lay one side of the belt over itself then cut it at a long angle
crossing a few of the gear ridges.
then tape the two ends together. if its to long, add an idler gear to take up the slack.
pretty much what. your doing is like how people turn strip sandpaper into a loop sandpaper for some vertical sanding machines.
i don't know if i was clear
enough. maybe someone reading this can explain better.
Try packing tape (the kind with fiberglass strands in the tape). Instead of crazy glue, with the packing tape you can go all the way around the gear tape. Obviously on the flat side not the side with the gears on it.
I’d also be tempted to cut the. gear tape at an angle (both ends) this way the cut instead of just being cut across with a small area which would be a good failure point.
this would be easier with pictures. maybe you
got my drift
You have too much torque on those big bevel gears. Put gearing ahead of it for lower torque and higher RPMs through the big bevel gears.
Think of it like how the power company uses transformers to increase voltage to decrease amperage for long power lines.
How much did PCBway charge for printing the planetary gears?
How much did it work out per gram, please?
What about increasing gear teeth number, or adding radius to those, such that more material can resist being turned... Also, making the gears taller with wider axis, should help stabilize them from skipping. Annother thing that could be done, is to change the axis of those pieces to a steel rod... Or machine the gears from solid wood or acrilic
Use 4 bevel gears in a square frame to help distribute the force (like how a cars differential spider gears are setup)
Ho my... I laugh so hard, I even ask my girlfriend to come listen to your jokes 😆
Have you checked If there are any bevel gearboxes for rc available to buy ready? sometimes it's better to buy a problematic part because it already has been engineerd before to the point where it works.
Another idea would be to use universal joints instead of gears, maybe several in a row to get around the tight angle better but in this case I'd really recommend to buy them of the shelf.
I'm honestly not sure if you make all theses basic engineering flaws on purpose (for the show) or not?
It seem to be a good way to boost viewers interaction in the comment section.
Like Electroboom who, most of the time, shock himself to make views.
So I'm assuming the syringes are fairly lightweight, and you said the gear train is heavy. Maybe the gear train should sit at the bottom and the syringes on top? Then re-designing the bevel gears so they're supported from both sides might just be enough.
Planetary gear boxes are very hard to back drive and putting all your torque on a bevel gear is going to make it harder. Planetary gearboxes are great for increasing torque but without very tight tolerances, strong materials, and good lubrication you will struggle to backdrive them.
I like using white lithium grease that can be cheaply purchased from any automotive store. Simply spray it in and run it through a drill for a min or two so it sands itself smooth and viola, a low friction gear box. The spray also works on the 3d printer as a lubricant for its rails