I’m on door lock actuator #5 (between driver and passenger side) for my 4Runner. First three were OEM. The last one I got from Amazon was poorly molded, so I’m waiting with a disabled vehicle while i get a new one. Fuck Toyota.
Quick tip when replacing the door panel back on the door, roll down the window AFTER you have everything installed into the door, it makes it so much easier to slip the top edge over the metal.
One other quick tip is to remove the top/center plastic clip (plug-shaped clip) until you get the top of the panel on top of the window/door ledge. Once you have the top of panel slid over that ledge, reach up and re-install that clip (takes a little bit of a stretch) and then you can press the door panel in. I wasn't able to get the top of the panel installed without removing that clip.
I watched this video twice, then I replaced mine without watching it again in about 30 minutes. The hardest part was getting the door panel back on correctly at the end. You have to get the top part seated close to the window, so you put it in first, at a downward-facing angle, then push the rest of the tabs in. That probably took me 5-10 minutes.
Excellent video. Thanks man. I would like to bring up an issue I had with mine that someone asked and it was explained but someone very well below. I followed your video but my manual key wasn’t working at all. There’s actually a rod that comes off the actual key insert behind the door handle and goes into the top of the latch actuator. So in addition to that rod that goes into the actuator that you mentioned there’s one at the top that needs to go in horizontally as well. Again excellent video but for those having the issue I had. That’s your solution.
My key isn’t moving either! I can roll the window down but I’m not sure how to even get in there to swap it since the door is closed and locked. I can’t get the panel off from the inside with it still closed
@@541brooksso I kept my window up. Basically you’ll wanna hook that metal pole through the hole on the actuator like he shows in this video. Then at the top of the actuator you’ll feel a round 4 notch slot. There’s a piece of metal that sticks out straight from behind the door handle keyhole. That goes into the 4 notch slot on the actuator. Then while holding those two pieces in place screw the actuator back onto the door
This was very helpful, thanks for taking the time to do this. On my 2013, I had no need for the 10mm socket and my three bolts holding in the actuator used T30 not T25. Strange how different years within the same generation have different hardware. Seems inefficient for such an efficient company like toyota
I saw the one on amazon and i didnt buy it because all the gears inside the actuator are plastic and the oem one are metal which explains the price difference but i just ended up buying the motor for $10 on amazon so im gonna try that this weekend looks easy enough
Thanks for this. I may have to do my driver and passenger side on my 2022 Kona, which shouldn't be happening so soon, but this video gives me hope that it's an easy fix. I'd let the dealer do it under warranty, but they want $400 just to look at it with no guarantee they'll classify it as a warranty issue. I can get the parts for about $200 for both sides.
@@AJLoDato22 Back in 2017 I started driving for Uber. At the time I could change bulbs, air filters, and oil. That was it. But the cost to maintain the car was crazy. At the time I had a 2009 Rav4 V6 Limited, still miss that car. It had push button start, remote start, proximity sensors for the door locks, great radio, and I miss having a sunroof. First brake job I was like "How hard could this be?" So I started watching UA-cam videos and have done all my own brakes with disks ever since. Rock Auto for the parts. Occasionally Amazon like right now, vented slotted chrome rotors for less than on Rock. Then I learned how to do a coolant flush, transmission flush + filter, differential fluid, transfer case fluid, suspension, although to be honest I only ever did a wheel bearing, I learned how to take the bumpers off (still hate doing that), spark plugs, coil-packs, intake manifold, Mass flow, and now I can do pretty much everything except anything that requires an engine lift, transmission, or exhaust. I don't have a lift to do things like the exhaust (need to lower mine to do a tow hitch, so I'll let a shop do it. Technically I could do shocks and struts, but I never actually tried. I just watched all the videos on how to do it. But on this car my door locks no longer cooperate all the time, so either the actuators are bad or there's a short. Hopefully it's the former, not sure how I'd fix a short. TBH some things I do depending on weather, like I need an oil change right now, don't have ramps for this car, and it's getting cold here in CT, so this time around I will probably just go to some place like Valvoline, but these videos help. I posted one on how to change a horn on a focus a while back and got quite a few views. Not as many as this one, but like 18,000 or so.
Thanks for your sharing video i just fixed my front right passenger door lock. Your knowledge is very helpful ❤.doesn't take long Uninstall and reinstall them back
*** WARNING! Test the mechanical key function after, it often does not work because the key does not get lined up. I had to dig through several forms to find how to resolve this. Most people find out once they realize their battery on their key fob is dead and then our stranded. There is a small rubber cylinder on the outside portion of the door. The panel the door does not need to be removed. Remove this little rubber circle which exposes a torque screw, will need a T 30 size bit. Unscrew it (it does not unscrew all the way so you don’t have to worry about it falling down ) and then the mechanical key can be pulled out of the door and you will notice there isn’t plus shape and which must line up with the actuator. Once you pull it out and it is very easy to do. I’ll post video to my channel
I just changed mine! Thank you! BUT when I tested the manual key it no longer works. Can you please help me with this? I did use the OEM part. Thank you Rick
Anyone have a link to a good plastic puller set to do this job? I wish he linked his in his store, Id give him credit. Just dont want to get a set that isnt going to work. Awesome video.
Good call - I'll link one in the description that should work well off Amazon. I use the Metra Electronics SKU #207650 from AutoZone. None are really amazing as they are more of a wear plastic to be easy on your other plastics.
So I've been through so many of these without having my issue resolved. Sometimes the rod coming in from the lock cylinder isn't the correct pattern, other time the tab on the electrical connector is too small and doesn't retain the clip. Ones that have neither issue are intermittent... yeah I kno electrical 😢
Do you think the part number & install procedure would be the same for a 2020 4runner driver door? I believe they are the same generation. Lastly, do you think it would be worth paying the extra for the Toyota OEM part In the hopes of it possibly lasting longer? Thanks for the tips:)
Watched this video after I replaced my door handle. I think the yellow rod where the actuator goes controls the actual latch for the door handle. I don't think I properly put that back in place because I closed the door and now I can't open it from inside or out. Any ideas on what to do?
I replaced my actuators when I got my car 2 years ago. now the passenger side makes a loud sound when it locks. just making sure, that is the actuator right? the first time it didn’t make sounds but it just wouldn’t work
I had this problem as well, and it actually wasn't mentioned in the otherwise excellent video. I went back to figure this out and there is a straight post that comes out of the key latch mechanism that also needs to be fitted into the top of the new actuator. Best way I found to do this was to fit the metal rod into the hole in the bottom of the actuator first, then kind of angle and push the actuator with one hand while guiding the rod from the key latch and slide it into the notch on the top of the new actuator. Once you feel like you have it you can test with the key in the hole and you will hear the new actuator click and engage. Mine works great now.
@@fiddypixels9719you just saved me big time! You’re right there’s a hex shaped notch at the top of the latch actuator that the key rod fits into. Took a bit of messing with it but easy once I found it. Hard part was pushing the rubber window guide out of the way. Thank you for taking the time to explain this!
I just finished installing my replacement actuator. I followed the steps in your video and it helped me accomplish the job in 17 min. and I didn't break any clips. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us all.
@@AJLoDato22 Sorry about that was trying to do two things at once. My 4Runner has the same issue, but instead or it being the outer handle it’s the inside door handle. Do you think it might be the same part you used
@@AJLoDato22 dude it's been quite the journey over the years. I've moved, deleted, reuploaded many videos across a few channels... chasing the algorithm, experimenting, and learning. I went mostly (apple) tech for the latest round, but sorta burnt out there. Want to do more variety again. love your stuff and just subscribed! I have a 14 platinum tundra and wish I had CarPlay (saw that vid). also thinking of doing some solar vids as well as I've beefed up some things on my end. looks like we have similar tastes, ha! good luck man on the journey! great content.
I'm hoping that his helps me with my 2000 4Runner. The driver side 2nd door is refusing to shut (would say rear door but UA-cam thinks I mean rear tailgate ... So Irritating).
Too many of us are having these problems. Time for a recall and reimbursement Toyota!!!!!!!😠
I’m ab to have to change me wife’s for a 2nd time. Such bullshit
I’m on door lock actuator #5 (between driver and passenger side) for my 4Runner. First three were OEM. The last one I got from Amazon was poorly molded, so I’m waiting with a disabled vehicle while i get a new one. Fuck Toyota.
Quick tip when replacing the door panel back on the door, roll down the window AFTER you have everything installed into the door, it makes it so much easier to slip the top edge over the metal.
One other quick tip is to remove the top/center plastic clip (plug-shaped clip) until you get the top of the panel on top of the window/door ledge. Once you have the top of panel slid over that ledge, reach up and re-install that clip (takes a little bit of a stretch) and then you can press the door panel in. I wasn't able to get the top of the panel installed without removing that clip.
Very simple to follow. Thanks! (Dealership wanted $1,100 to replace.)
Glad the video helped!
Perfect install video. Exactly what I needed to fix my 5th gen 4Runner’s passenger door issues!
Glad it helped!!
I watched this video twice, then I replaced mine without watching it again in about 30 minutes. The hardest part was getting the door panel back on correctly at the end. You have to get the top part seated close to the window, so you put it in first, at a downward-facing angle, then push the rest of the tabs in. That probably took me 5-10 minutes.
Love it!
Thank you for the video, I followed instructions,and everything went flawlessly. Hardest part was getting the door panel back on. Lol.
Glad the video helped!
Excellent video. Thanks man. I would like to bring up an issue I had with mine that someone asked and it was explained but someone very well below. I followed your video but my manual key wasn’t working at all. There’s actually a rod that comes off the actual key insert behind the door handle and goes into the top of the latch actuator. So in addition to that rod that goes into the actuator that you mentioned there’s one at the top that needs to go in horizontally as well. Again excellent video but for those having the issue I had. That’s your solution.
Fantastic insight! Thanks for helping others out.
My key isn’t moving either! I can roll the window down but I’m not sure how to even get in there to swap it since the door is closed and locked. I can’t get the panel off from the inside with it still closed
@@541brooksso I kept my window up. Basically you’ll wanna hook that metal pole through the hole on the actuator like he shows in this video. Then at the top of the actuator you’ll feel a round 4 notch slot. There’s a piece of metal that sticks out straight from behind the door handle keyhole. That goes into the 4 notch slot on the actuator. Then while holding those two pieces in place screw the actuator back onto the door
@@541brooksat around 6:22 in the video he is holding the actuator by the notch area I’m talking about
Nice video, right to the point. My front locks go out like clock work every 2 years. Just ordered actuator 7&8
Just had my first failure on our 19. Are the OEM replacements failing regularly, or is there a good aftermarket part out there?
Thank you for making a Video of this also testing the circuit is fairly easy but not all of us have power probes or ohm meters laying around.
Glad it helped!
Used this video to replace mine. Spot on man! Thanks for the video!!!took about 20 minutes.
Glad the video helped!!
Typically don’t comment on videos but this one was spot on, thanks for the tutorial!
Thank you very much!!
This was very helpful, thanks for taking the time to do this. On my 2013, I had no need for the 10mm socket and my three bolts holding in the actuator used T30 not T25. Strange how different years within the same generation have different hardware. Seems inefficient for such an efficient company like toyota
Glad the video helped! Interesting that we had different hardware, I agree it surprising for Toyota.
I saw the one on amazon and i didnt buy it because all the gears inside the actuator are plastic and the oem one are metal which explains the price difference but i just ended up buying the motor for $10 on amazon so im gonna try that this weekend looks easy enough
Thanks for this. I may have to do my driver and passenger side on my 2022 Kona, which shouldn't be happening so soon, but this video gives me hope that it's an easy fix. I'd let the dealer do it under warranty, but they want $400 just to look at it with no guarantee they'll classify it as a warranty issue. I can get the parts for about $200 for both sides.
DIY for sure!
@@AJLoDato22 Back in 2017 I started driving for Uber. At the time I could change bulbs, air filters, and oil. That was it. But the cost to maintain the car was crazy. At the time I had a 2009 Rav4 V6 Limited, still miss that car. It had push button start, remote start, proximity sensors for the door locks, great radio, and I miss having a sunroof. First brake job I was like "How hard could this be?" So I started watching UA-cam videos and have done all my own brakes with disks ever since. Rock Auto for the parts. Occasionally Amazon like right now, vented slotted chrome rotors for less than on Rock. Then I learned how to do a coolant flush, transmission flush + filter, differential fluid, transfer case fluid, suspension, although to be honest I only ever did a wheel bearing, I learned how to take the bumpers off (still hate doing that), spark plugs, coil-packs, intake manifold, Mass flow, and now I can do pretty much everything except anything that requires an engine lift, transmission, or exhaust. I don't have a lift to do things like the exhaust (need to lower mine to do a tow hitch, so I'll let a shop do it. Technically I could do shocks and struts, but I never actually tried. I just watched all the videos on how to do it. But on this car my door locks no longer cooperate all the time, so either the actuators are bad or there's a short. Hopefully it's the former, not sure how I'd fix a short. TBH some things I do depending on weather, like I need an oil change right now, don't have ramps for this car, and it's getting cold here in CT, so this time around I will probably just go to some place like Valvoline, but these videos help. I posted one on how to change a horn on a focus a while back and got quite a few views. Not as many as this one, but like 18,000 or so.
Thanks for posting this video. Just did the replacement and it was EXACTLY as you showed it. Well done!
I’m glad the video helped! (And that you saved money by not having a shop do it)
Thanks for your sharing video i just fixed my front right passenger door lock. Your knowledge is very helpful ❤.doesn't take long Uninstall and reinstall them back
Glad the video helped!!
you're the man AJ!!! Thanks 😊 Saved my daughter some money
Us DIY’ers vs. dealerships! Glad the video helped.
You're the man. Mine just went out today. Thank you for the video!
Us DIY’er vs. dealerships! Hope the video helped.
*** WARNING! Test the mechanical key function after, it often does not work because the key does not get lined up. I had to dig through several forms to find how to resolve this. Most people find out once they realize their battery on their key fob is dead and then our stranded.
There is a small rubber cylinder on the outside portion of the door. The panel the door does not need to be removed. Remove this little rubber circle which exposes a torque screw, will need a T 30 size bit. Unscrew it (it does not unscrew all the way so you don’t have to worry about it falling down ) and then the mechanical key can be pulled out of the door and you will notice there isn’t plus shape and which must line up with the actuator. Once you pull it out and it is very easy to do. I’ll post video to my channel
Good insight!
I had the same issue, I was happy to not have to disassemble the door again to fix it.
Are you going to post the video?
Man , big thanks!!! Didn’t know that part!!!
Thanks so much for this tip. Had the same issue after reassembling. Very quick fix and happy to not have to take apart the door again.
hello... hey that link is taking me to an older model, i have a 2022 4 runner, where can i find this actuator for the driver's door? thanks
I see that too. I’m almost certain it is the same actuator for a 2022. I googled it and OEM Toyota actuators say they are for 2010-2022.
I just changed mine! Thank you! BUT when I tested the manual key it no longer works. Can you please help me with this? I did use the OEM part. Thank you Rick
Hmm that’s odd. If the key turns, but doesn’t lock or unlock I would check to make sure your cables are secured to the back plastic housing.
@@AJLoDato22 OK THanks
Followed your steps and success. I am positive you saved me $$$
Heck yeah - glad the video helped!
Anyone have a link to a good plastic puller set to do this job? I wish he linked his in his store, Id give him credit. Just dont want to get a set that isnt going to work. Awesome video.
Good call - I'll link one in the description that should work well off Amazon. I use the Metra Electronics SKU #207650 from AutoZone.
None are really amazing as they are more of a wear plastic to be easy on your other plastics.
If you get the OeM version, parts geek sells it for $144 OTD vs Toyota or Autozone at $400+
Thanks alot. Replaced my driver door actuator today after watching your vid. It was just as easy as you showed!!!
Glad the video helped!!
I see the description on amazon is 2010-2016, Would this work on a 2018 5th gen?
I would think so because the body style stayed the same. In the Amazon description it gives an OEM part #. You can make sure it matches up.
So I've been through so many of these without having my issue resolved. Sometimes the rod coming in from the lock cylinder isn't the correct pattern, other time the tab on the electrical connector is too small and doesn't retain the clip. Ones that have neither issue are intermittent... yeah I kno electrical 😢
Dang, that's horrible. If it just isn't working out, a dealer fix could be a decent alternative. They will warranty their work if it doesn't hold up.
Do you think the part number & install procedure would be the same for a 2020 4runner driver door? I believe they are the same generation. Lastly, do you think it would be worth paying the extra for the Toyota OEM part In the hopes of it possibly lasting longer? Thanks for the tips:)
Yes I believe it will be the exact same. The Toyota may last longer or be more stout, but in my opinion not worth the exponential up charge.
Watched this video after I replaced my door handle. I think the yellow rod where the actuator goes controls the actual latch for the door handle. I don't think I properly put that back in place because I closed the door and now I can't open it from inside or out. Any ideas on what to do?
Yes I think it has to do with that vertical rod. Or the other two going to the inside handle.
Thank you so much for this.
Any actuator brand recommendations for the driver side passenger door?
Thanks
From a quick search on Amazon, there are a couple with good reviews. Left rearing part # 931-405
@@AJLoDato22 Thank you
Great video bro. Thanks!
I replaced my actuators when I got my car 2 years ago. now the passenger side makes a loud sound when it locks. just making sure, that is the actuator right? the first time it didn’t make sounds but it just wouldn’t work
I would think it’s the actuator as that’s the only mechanical part in the door aside from the window motor.
Mine works perfect other than the door doesn’t lock or unlock when trying to use the key manually now, what did I do wrong??
Hmm it sounds like something isn’t engaging. I would maybe take the door panel back off and when using the key see what is going on in there
I had this problem as well, and it actually wasn't mentioned in the otherwise excellent video. I went back to figure this out and there is a straight post that comes out of the key latch mechanism that also needs to be fitted into the top of the new actuator. Best way I found to do this was to fit the metal rod into the hole in the bottom of the actuator first, then kind of angle and push the actuator with one hand while guiding the rod from the key latch and slide it into the notch on the top of the new actuator. Once you feel like you have it you can test with the key in the hole and you will hear the new actuator click and engage. Mine works great now.
@@fiddypixels9719you just saved me big time! You’re right there’s a hex shaped notch at the top of the latch actuator that the key rod fits into. Took a bit of messing with it but easy once I found it. Hard part was pushing the rubber window guide out of the way. Thank you for taking the time to explain this!
My key fob only works while car has power (dome lights) as soon as the car cuts power, key stops working. Any ideas? Replaced both actuators
Hmmm that is really strange. I’d take to some forums. I’m sure someone has had a similar issue.
Just wondering, do we need to remove the screw for the window rail? Or leave it on?
I don’t particularly remember. But I think you may have to, to push it back to give space for the actuator to come out.
I just finished installing my replacement actuator. I followed the steps in your video and it helped me accomplish the job in 17 min. and I didn't break any clips. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us all.
Glad the video helped!! @@Marreroei
You do NOT need to remove the 10mm bolt for the window rail. Just have to wiggle the actuator a bit to fit it past.
Great video and info.
Thank you!
So is the "green" cable green on one end and yellow on the other end?
I don’t remember. But at 4:37 it looks like the white one is yellow at the other end. Sorry!
I have the same problem, but the handle in the inside don’t want is that the same part
I’m not sure I understand your question. Could you rephrase?
@@AJLoDato22 Sorry about that was trying to do two things at once. My 4Runner has the same issue, but instead or it being the outer handle it’s the inside door handle. Do you think it might be the same part you used
@@brandoncade-zc2ii all good - yup if it won’t open or has issues with the key fob, it’s most likely the door actuator.
@@AJLoDato22 okay thanks for your help
Bro coming in the clutch haha. I gotta replace the passenger door on my 2016 Trail.
Is it about the same for the passenger side? My passenger side went out first
Yup I believe the same
Thanks so much trying today!
What year model is this, I need one for a 2020
Mine was a 2014, but should be the same as yours
This video thumbnail looks VERY familiar, lololol. Nice work though.
Dude this low key blew my mind, and the coincidence that I post a week earlier is ironic.
Looked through your content - fire channel 🔥!
@@AJLoDato22 dude it's been quite the journey over the years. I've moved, deleted, reuploaded many videos across a few channels... chasing the algorithm, experimenting, and learning. I went mostly (apple) tech for the latest round, but sorta burnt out there. Want to do more variety again. love your stuff and just subscribed! I have a 14 platinum tundra and wish I had CarPlay (saw that vid). also thinking of doing some solar vids as well as I've beefed up some things on my end. looks like we have similar tastes, ha! good luck man on the journey! great content.
Where did you get your plastic tools?
I think Walmart or Amazon. They are cheap and really nice to have!
I'm hoping that his helps me with my 2000 4Runner. The driver side 2nd door is refusing to shut (would say rear door but UA-cam thinks I mean rear tailgate ... So Irritating).
This is tailored towards 5th gen 4Runners. But application wise is probably similar to your 2000
Mine is bad on my 08 right rear door
I had both sides fail before 40,000 miles
Sheesh 😅. It’s an unfortunate flaw these 4Runners have.
Except that you edited out the tough part, getting it back in and connected.
I’m pretty sure I left most of the re-install in the video. From the comments, other folks agree it’s not too horrible.
$40 or $100?
$40 link in the description!