Adding a 175 amp Anderson plug to your vehicle makes things easier, especially if your battery is in an area that is not easily accessible or if you live in a climate where freezing rain can freeze your hood shut.
Made a pair using 0 gauge welding cable 17 feet long. Only thing is I have to buy new high quality clamps. Before the clamps broke I could jump a vehicle clamping it to the battery cables without having a battery in that vehicle. It allowed alot of electricity through those 0 gauge cables.
Good job. Is the 2 gauge the maximum that can be used for jumper cables or it is possible to go up to 1 gauge which of course will be a little bit thicker than the 2 gauge.
My father gave me set of jumper cables 23 years ago, they were homemade by a local starter/alternator shop. They have the Associated 6205 clamps and use 1/0 Flex-a-Prene wire/cable and they are 25ft long. Ive never found anything I couldnt jump start... Just recently I jumped off a 85HP tractor with ease. I am currently building another set to give away to a friend, Im going with 2/0 cable on his and the same clamps I have on mine.
Im not a fan of the clamps shown in the video. Look up the Associated 6205, they are rated at 800 amps, they have smaller ones if you dont need the big ones... and they are Made in USA.
@@drmalenko the Deka 08756 are rated for 2/0 - the associated only up to 1/0 though people report that they've successfully gotten 2/0 through the handle.
Associated Clamps Are The BEST Clamps. That's What I Made My 25 Foot Cables With 2 Gauge Welding Cable Years Ago . I've Been And Auto Mechanic Since 1973. I Also Have An Associated Commerical Battery Charger And Load Tester For More Then 40 Years. @@drmalenko
It depends on what you’re using them for. Number 2 gauge will carry more current if you need that. 25mm is number 4 gauge and is more that adequate for most normal automotive applications. Hope that helps.
You Should have hammered down those connections. And NEVER use solder as a "More secure" Connection. It is the opposite. It is a LESS secure connection. These cables can get very hot very quick and that solder job over time will deteriorate. I will cause problems from not making a good connection taking longer to jump or coming right out at the worst possible time. You will NEVER see ACTUAL professionals doing this. It is a liability. You should stop showing this to people or at very least tell them it's for entertainment proposes only. OH and DC current travels on the outside of each individual strand, that one of the reasons there are so many it gives the current an easier and more surface for it to travel. You filling solder in-between those strands is counter productive.
Ive got a set of 1/0 25ft cables that are soldered, they are 23 years old. Now, with that out of the way, solder is not as good as crimping. However, the instructions on the batter clamps plainly state to solder AFTER you crimp, I dont necessarily agree with it, but mine have held up for 23 years. The clamps are still sold today, Associated 6205.
@@drmalenko And how much time have your cables been in actual service. You may think that you cables have been in service for 25 years but in reality you only HAD them for 25 years. People like tow truck drivers who use these Almost every single day (or on average at least once a day), especially on AAA calls, will not use soldered cable because it will start slowing down the time it takes to jump start a car. You may think your once a month use is 25 years worth but that just not the case.
@@AztecWarrior69_69 I think you missed my point. I'm on your side here. I simply pointed out the clamp manufacturer stated to clamp first, and then solder in their directions... I'm totally on board with what you said, did I not convey that in the first message?
@@AztecWarrior69_69 and I'll add this, hammering a crimp is never the answer. Buy the correct crimpers and the matching lugs. You suggesting to use a hammer style crimper tells me you haven't fully understood crimping, how it works, and exactly why it's superior.
@@drmalenko As to being on "my side", I never said anything that would indicate anything in either way. I was merely pointing out that People think just because they have something for 25 years that it good quality or well made, when they really never actually put it through its paces. You can have a harbor freight welder and use it twice a month and say it's very good quality but if you try to use it like a Miller welder every day it will break down a lot sooner. That is my point. And while a crimper is what can be and what is best for lugs, this specific clamp HAS no specific type of crimper for it. The most you can hope for is a channellock type ratcheting pliers. and they are not good enough to do the job properly. But with a small hammer you can actually roll those three points into the cable as it is meant to. That overlapping he did is not secure enough. In any case instead of crimping the cable directly to the jaws/teeth, I would have just got some lugs, crimped them to the end of that cable with my WELL BUILD harbor freight hydraulic crimper that I have had for 15 years, and THEN just bolted it all together. That way if you have to replace the cable because you accidently cut it all you have to do is take it apart and put new lugs. Instead of having to unsolder and/or have to spread open the metal holding the cable.
Adding a 175 amp Anderson plug to your vehicle makes things easier, especially if your battery is in an area that is not easily accessible or if you live in a climate where freezing rain can freeze your hood shut.
Made a pair using 0 gauge welding cable 17 feet long. Only thing is I have to buy new high quality clamps. Before the clamps broke I could jump a vehicle clamping it to the battery cables without having a battery in that vehicle. It allowed alot of electricity through those 0 gauge cables.
Associated 6205 clamps. You most likely will never wear them out. Ive had mine for 23 years. Made in USA too!
Have a set of welding wire jumper cables 0 gauge been around for about 40 years and haven’t came across anything that it can jump off
What is the cost and where did you get the materials for this project? Can you get up to 30 ft lengths?
Welding supply Orr eletrical supply.
Amazing work!!
step one: get thick cables
Good job. Is the 2 gauge the maximum that can be used for jumper cables or it is possible to go up to 1 gauge which of course will be a little bit thicker than the 2 gauge.
My father gave me set of jumper cables 23 years ago, they were homemade by a local starter/alternator shop. They have the Associated 6205 clamps and use 1/0 Flex-a-Prene wire/cable and they are 25ft long. Ive never found anything I couldnt jump start... Just recently I jumped off a 85HP tractor with ease. I am currently building another set to give away to a friend, Im going with 2/0 cable on his and the same clamps I have on mine.
Im not a fan of the clamps shown in the video. Look up the Associated 6205, they are rated at 800 amps, they have smaller ones if you dont need the big ones... and they are Made in USA.
@@drmalenko the Deka 08756 are rated for 2/0 - the associated only up to 1/0 though people report that they've successfully gotten 2/0 through the handle.
Associated Clamps Are The BEST Clamps. That's What I Made My 25 Foot Cables With 2 Gauge Welding Cable Years Ago . I've Been And Auto Mechanic Since 1973. I Also Have An Associated Commerical Battery Charger And Load Tester For More Then 40 Years. @@drmalenko
Sir Which one is thicker and better 2gauge or 25sq mm welding cable?
It depends on what you’re using them for. Number 2 gauge will carry more current if you need that. 25mm is number 4 gauge and is more that adequate for most normal automotive applications. Hope that helps.
@@Chris_Does_EverythingYes it help,thank you very much sir
Metric sized 25mm2 cable is right the middle beetwen AWG 2 and 4
I bought jumper cables 35mm2 4.5 meters long,cost about 40 euros.I wont regret that money.
That’s real smart soldering with a propane torch by a. gasoline tank.
😂😂 that entire bench is probably flammable fym
Sorry buddy I didn’t see where you said how to determine which cable is positive and negative. Please help. Thank. But great video
Red is positive and black is negative
@@happymonk4206 if he doesn’t know that he shouldn’t be making his own set of jumper cables
@@RJ42997 Yea, not being ugly, but if he doesnt know this, he shouldnt be jump starting anything, nor should he be making cables.
YOU ~ ROCK ! !
You Should have hammered down those connections. And NEVER use solder as a "More secure" Connection. It is the opposite. It is a LESS secure connection. These cables can get very hot very quick and that solder job over time will deteriorate. I will cause problems from not making a good connection taking longer to jump or coming right out at the worst possible time. You will NEVER see ACTUAL professionals doing this. It is a liability. You should stop showing this to people or at very least tell them it's for entertainment proposes only.
OH and DC current travels on the outside of each individual strand, that one of the reasons there are so many it gives the current an easier and more surface for it to travel. You filling solder in-between those strands is counter productive.
Ive got a set of 1/0 25ft cables that are soldered, they are 23 years old. Now, with that out of the way, solder is not as good as crimping. However, the instructions on the batter clamps plainly state to solder AFTER you crimp, I dont necessarily agree with it, but mine have held up for 23 years. The clamps are still sold today, Associated 6205.
@@drmalenko And how much time have your cables been in actual service. You may think that you cables have been in service for 25 years but in reality you only HAD them for 25 years. People like tow truck drivers who use these Almost every single day (or on average at least once a day), especially on AAA calls, will not use soldered cable because it will start slowing down the time it takes to jump start a car.
You may think your once a month use is 25 years worth but that just not the case.
@@AztecWarrior69_69 I think you missed my point. I'm on your side here. I simply pointed out the clamp manufacturer stated to clamp first, and then solder in their directions... I'm totally on board with what you said, did I not convey that in the first message?
@@AztecWarrior69_69 and I'll add this, hammering a crimp is never the answer. Buy the correct crimpers and the matching lugs. You suggesting to use a hammer style crimper tells me you haven't fully understood crimping, how it works, and exactly why it's superior.
@@drmalenko As to being on "my side", I never said anything that would indicate anything in either way. I was merely pointing out that People think just because they have something for 25 years that it good quality or well made, when they really never actually put it through its paces. You can have a harbor freight welder and use it twice a month and say it's very good quality but if you try to use it like a Miller welder every day it will break down a lot sooner. That is my point.
And while a crimper is what can be and what is best for lugs, this specific clamp HAS no specific type of crimper for it. The most you can hope for is a channellock type ratcheting pliers. and they are not good enough to do the job properly. But with a small hammer you can actually roll those three points into the cable as it is meant to. That overlapping he did is not secure enough.
In any case instead of crimping the cable directly to the jaws/teeth, I would have just got some lugs, crimped them to the end of that cable with my WELL BUILD harbor freight hydraulic crimper that I have had for 15 years, and THEN just bolted it all together. That way if you have to replace the cable because you accidently cut it all you have to do is take it apart and put new lugs. Instead of having to unsolder and/or have to spread open the metal holding the cable.