Steve House's Near Disaster Climbing the North Wall of North Twin

Legendary alpinist Steve House describes his near disaster climbing a new route on the North Wall of North Twin in the Canadian Rockies.
In April 2004, Steve House and Marko Prezelj made the third ascent of the 5,000-foot North Face of North Twin in the Canadian Rockies, following a new line. This challenging wall was first conquered in August 1974 by George Lowe and Chris Jones over six days, graded VI, 5.8, A3, and was then the hardest in North America.
The second ascent came in 1985 when Dave Cheesmond and Barry Blanchard climbed an independent line called the North Pillar. They completed the route with four bivouacs, rated VI, 5.10d, A0, using only eight points of aid across 60 pitches.
House and Prezelj's ascent began in early April, following an independent line. They chose a winter variant, avoiding the dangerous center of the face. After reaching the mid-height "Chicken Traverse," they joined the Lowe-Jones route, climbing 13 pitches of 5.10, A3 through the headwall.
Despite losing a crampon and boot shell from the third bivy, House continued, while Prezelj led the final pitches. The climbers escaped across the ice cap, trudging 15 miles through deep snow over nine hours. Their ascent took four days in total.
Photos courtesy of Steve House
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[@michaelboguski4743]

When the movie comes out, will it be called Das Boot ?

[@DrewNorthup]

Only if it involved a snorkel too…

[@michaelb3296]

Is there a way to see these full interviews??!

[@thefirnline]

Just putting clips of them in different podcast episodes. Will release episode on North Twin later this year

[@paulmitchell5349]

Where's the fun if there's no epic ?