Designing your Lancelot Speaker Part 3: Crossover, measurements, voicing by ear

In this video I go over the (high level) approach I took to get the crossover right, what measurement tools I used, where tuning by ear comes in and how I addressed the FR response of the compression driver.

[@AmazonasBiotop]

Looking good and that all is coming together nicely.
Probably there is not so much more performance to get from the solution methods choices you have made. And for the "most part" you are ±5 dB in your room that is good!
(With that smoothing)
I guess it sounds good.👍😉
Regarding your DSP explanation in the video.
Then you look at wrong DSP in my opinion.
If you think that you need to do DA/AD conversions twice. That is not correct with one exception (see below).
There is DSP units that take digital in and do no DA conversation at all, when it has digital out! (So you can use your DAC of choice.)
Then you also have DSP that take digital in and have a DA convertion and a volume remote control (so you throw out the middle man the "preamp").
You get analog out that goes then to one or many power amplifier(s).
In other words we need one DA conversation always! And depending on what setup you are doing you will end up with just that and nothing more (except TT that needs AD and a DA conversation but what the DSP will bring to the table regarding SQ outweighs the potential degradation it might have.).
MY conclusion this far from your project and with my DSP experience. Is this traditional way to use crossover network bring you ±5 dB and the possibility of fatigue @14 kHz (depending on how sensitive someone is).
With a DSP as preamp you will gain somewhat better performance with ±1.5 d dB and being able to reduce that 14 kHz peek if needed.
So as we agree on:
"not wanting to stack variation on variation; it's very valid.."
When your approach give at several points at least +5 dB and other points -5 dB. And the DSP approach give a tighter window ±1.5 dB. So performance left on the table by the method chosen.
Performance is also suffering when we put a crossover network BETWEEN the power amplifier and the driver. When the power amplifier is not driving and controlling the driver directly (damping factor). It is always better to make the crossover in the low voltage signal domain there we can put the money into higher quality parts when those parts will be so much smaller.
Than in the traditional way after the power amplifier where we have higher voltages and currents and the caps/inductors/resistors need to be bigger and more expensive so we will most likely NOT be using the "best" quality components due to cost. The good thing with a traditional crossover in the speaker cabinet is that is covinent. Just hook up a amp and you are done when you have your crossover built (but does it matter? When those are tailored to your room as that were one benefit of building it in the first place. Move it to another room/location then all bets are of and we got something with unknown performance. 🤔
Anyway I planned to answer your question that you posted earlier today but my computer thought it were wiser to do a windows update instead .. so I found your new video and typing on my phone 🤳

[@barrycrellin1742]

That dip at just over 125 is possibly phase cancellation from reflected floor bounce at l/f. Check height of driver above floor versus 1/4 wavelengths at this frequency. If you place a well folded duvet in front of speaker and can measure a reduction in the dip then that’s the clue. Hope this helps.

[@EduardBroekman]

Thank you yes quarter wavelength indicates 65-70cm/2ft, or double for the path of a bounced signal. The woofer sits at 85cm/nearly 3ft above the floor...so it might be the distance to the wall. I'll do an experiment...

[@PlaybackMansion]

Thanks for doing these. My 414s have the same peak at 2.3kHz and a valley at 600. I'm tuning in a similar way. I'm using Faital hf108r cd's. They sound more clear and open than the 808's in this application. It's a neodymium design with a shallow throat.
With no crossover on the 414s- the Faitals are a couple dB quieter than the woofer. They come in at 3.7k with a cap and inductor

[@EduardBroekman]

Hi! Yes great report thank you. What you're doing there is exactly my first ever setup, running the 414s full range and let the tweeter drop in so it meets the natural drop off at around 3.5kHz..
But then I found its better to utilise the highest efficiency driver and avoid the 2.3kHz region. I did have the 108R and another Faital at the top of my 'current' driver wish list, until a set of DH1As large format CD came along... not exactly a 288, but a long way in that direction and no issues playing at 500Hz.
Is the 108R's FR flat - how does it look?