Hello. Thanks for you detailed video. I think that your high sucess in grafting depends of many things that you care in hard way : good scion, right tecniques of cuting root stock and shaping the scions, good tools for the execution of job (knives, tape, paint, etc) and the knowledge of all your crew of how to do!
Watching you and Victor cut up the graft wood and Victor sitting there watching you cut and shaking his head like that the hell is this old gringo doing.Makes for a go comedy act.
THANKS for demonstrating !! I bet the average guy trying this at home uses his old dull, hook, flooring knife for ALL his cuts. Pretty amazing any of our grafts ever take. Just "dumb luck" I suppose !!
Great video Ken. Don't know how you find the time to edit and post these in the middle of your busy grafting season. Much appreciated and looking forward to using your techniques in my little orchard.
Your laying that back edge of the knife on there to show it was flat reminded me of a saying from the Smithy. When you want a piece of steel forged flat you lay it on the anvil and when you can't see light between the steel and the anvil you've "beat the daylights out of it." So I guess you "cut the daylights out of it."
Could a fellow graft in to a tree from a donor in the same season as they bud ? So if i sourced a cherry that i like, could i graft it into my tree that i do not enjoy this year, and then trim what i do not want off next year when i know the grafts are successful ?
i dont understand what you are asking. grafting is done in the spring. budding is done in august. if you'd like to send me pictures of the tree you wish to graft, maybe I can advise you as to how it might best be done. PM me and I'll give you my email add
Many grafting instructions only cuts on one side of the scion. Wouldn't that mean less chance for cambium to meat cambium? Is the risk of drying greater with two cuts, or why would some do just one cut in the scion? (Or is it another kind of grafting?)
cutting on one side is for "bark grafting"... not the technique I am using in this video. cutting on both sides makes it perfectly fit the receiving slot and the risk of dying is not greater.. it is even "less' because of twice the amount of cambium contact. it is also a much stronger graft and is not as likely to break in high winds. Ive been a commercial grafter for over 40 years and this is the most dependable graft there is and I use it almost exclusively on all species.. grapes, cherries, apples .. whatever.. the only time I dont use it, is when the understock is too large to make that receiving slot on the side.. then we go to the "bark graft" technique which only requires one cut.
i use the side graft whenever possible, it is a strong graft and wont break out as easily as some others. but there comes a point when the limb diameter gets so large you cannot make the receiving slot. thats when we to to the bark graft
I have been using toilet ring wax & electrical tape for the past few years in my home orchard. Works well for a small home orchard and inexpensive. Electrical tape must be removed after graft heals to prevent girdling.
Thanks a lot! :) It was really helpful. What do you use to paint the tips of the grafts? This will also be difficult for me because I like my mother in law... Haha :P
Nah my boss is a first class ass, and he knows it... You are the kind of boss that's hard to find. Someone who is out there working with a crew that respects you and isn't just there for the money or if a large company (or most military branches) where the folks in charge seem to get promoted to the highest level of incompetence they possess. I get the feeling that I could ask every employee you have ever had and 90% wouldn't have a bad thing to say about you, the job maybe but not the boss. (there will always be a few who complain regardless of conditions.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I rewatch your videos every spring!
thank you...
Your technique is the definition of success bloke, all the bases covered, top man. Only guy worth watching for grafting on youtube
Hello. Thanks for you detailed video. I think that your high sucess in grafting depends of many things that you care in hard way : good scion, right tecniques of cuting root stock and shaping the scions, good tools for the execution of job (knives, tape, paint, etc) and the knowledge of all your crew of how to do!
Thanks for showing us how to graft.Very well explained.
Watching you and Victor cut up the graft wood and Victor sitting there watching you cut and shaking his head like that the hell is this old gringo doing.Makes for a go comedy act.
THANKS for demonstrating !! I bet the average guy trying this at home uses his old dull, hook, flooring knife for ALL his cuts. Pretty amazing any of our grafts ever take. Just "dumb luck" I suppose !!
Very cool Ken. I understand these things in theory, to watch it in action is wonderful.
Great video Ken. Don't know how you find the time to edit and post these in the middle of your busy grafting season. Much appreciated and looking forward to using your techniques in my little orchard.
i dont know how i do it either! i must be nuts. glad you can use the info
Hey Ken, thanks for sharing... Good Stuff !!
Your laying that back edge of the knife on there to show it was flat reminded me of a saying from the Smithy. When you want a piece of steel forged flat you lay it on the anvil and when you can't see light between the steel and the anvil you've "beat the daylights out of it." So I guess you "cut the daylights out of it."
well after 20 million or so..its only 1 or 2 cuts lol
For the impatient, grafting cuts start at 8:00
Great video mate, cheers!
Thanks for the informative video
it looks like Victors sheers need to be sharpened and adjusted, he's showing signs of a strain on some of the cuts.
Nice good work
Got your younger brother on the team today...lol
not much younger haha
Lots of good info so is the same way in citrus trees? Keep up the good work
ive never done citrus. give it a try!
Hello kind sir, i have a question, this method you are using in the spring or can be used in the summer time, Greetings from Romania ! Thanks
spring
Could a fellow graft in to a tree from a donor in the same season as they bud ? So if i sourced a cherry that i like, could i graft it into my tree that i do not enjoy this year, and then trim what i do not want off next year when i know the grafts are successful ?
i dont understand what you are asking. grafting is done in the spring. budding is done in august. if you'd like to send me pictures of the tree you wish to graft, maybe I can advise you as to how it might best be done. PM me and I'll give you my email add
Do you ever use cleft, and whip and tongue grafts?
i used cleft 30 years ago, not anymore .. tongue whip - yes
Many grafting instructions only cuts on one side of the scion. Wouldn't that mean less chance for cambium to meat cambium? Is the risk of drying greater with two cuts, or why would some do just one cut in the scion? (Or is it another kind of grafting?)
cutting on one side is for "bark grafting"... not the technique I am using in this video. cutting on both sides makes it perfectly fit the receiving slot and the risk of dying is not greater.. it is even "less' because of twice the amount of cambium contact. it is also a much stronger graft and is not as likely to break in high winds. Ive been a commercial grafter for over 40 years and this is the most dependable graft there is and I use it almost exclusively on all species.. grapes, cherries, apples .. whatever.. the only time I dont use it, is when the understock is too large to make that receiving slot on the side.. then we go to the "bark graft" technique which only requires one cut.
Who is that young fellow teaching us how to do side grafting?
In what situation do u use a side graf and when a bark graft?
i use the side graft whenever possible, it is a strong graft and wont break out as easily as some others. but there comes a point when the limb diameter gets so large you cannot make the receiving slot. thats when we to to the bark graft
A+
samurai grafter.
hey Ken, would a wax emulsion like anchor seal work for that kind of thing?
well, the old timers used bees wax.. slow as christmas to apply but it works
I have been using toilet ring wax & electrical tape for the past few years in my home orchard. Works well for a small home orchard and inexpensive. Electrical tape must be removed after graft heals to prevent girdling.
I do the same, but I find that time and the sun takes care of the tape, just like it does for grafting tape.
interesting
I take it that in the""horticultural "world as opposed "medical " world that there is no such thing as rejection of transplanted tissue.
there are many incompatibility issues to be aware of
Thanks a lot! :) It was really helpful. What do you use to paint the tips of the grafts?
This will also be difficult for me because I like my mother in law... Haha :P
henrys tree cure product #124
where are you at?
wa
Man if my boss treated me like that I'd quit.... Of course being I'm self employed and like to have money, it does make that harder...
you mean if your boss treated you as good as I treat Victor?
Nah my boss is a first class ass, and he knows it... You are the kind of boss that's hard to find. Someone who is out there working with a crew that respects you and isn't just there for the money or if a large company (or most military branches) where the folks in charge seem to get promoted to the highest level of incompetence they possess.
I get the feeling that I could ask every employee you have ever had and 90% wouldn't have a bad thing to say about you, the job maybe but not the boss. (there will always be a few who complain regardless of conditions.
I say the same thing about my boss! haha
Victor is eye ballin' you, Ken! He ain't likin' your cut work. Scions, Scions, everywhere are Scions....messing up the scenery....