Thank you! I really do appreciate that more than you may realize. I think I am getting a little more settled. Just working on finalizing a new product additive, which I am pretty excited about, and projecting I will be back at the videos very soon 👍 Thank you for watching, as well as you're more than welcomed reassuring words :)
I just came upon your video, I am always looking for new things to do with wood and voila there you are! You did not seem nervous at all in the video, I appreciated the slower pace so that I can wrap my head around what I want to do with some pieces I have. Teal is the color I am going for and I just might add some orange too! Keep up the good work and look forward to more videos.
Glad I ran across this one, love the teal. I was just going to try to make this with my Meta dye kit! These dyes are great! I bought some 3x3 pcs of wood and test my colors on there, awesome. I tweak that color then go to my guitar bodies. Thank you, your videos are a great help! Pam
You don't know how helpful your video has been to me. Finding a premixed teal stain is nearly an impossible task. Frankly I'm worn out from trying to find it. I have a new custom bass being built and it's just about ready for finish. The resulting color in your video is just what I'm looking for. Your video is excellent and I now have the confidence to mix my own dyes. Hopefully I'll be able o find the Keda stain kit you used. Thanks again for your effort on this video!
Thank you! I am SOOO glad I could help out. The great thing about this wood dye kit is you really can make numerous wood stain colors, and adjust those colors to your own personal preferences. That makes a huge difference, since the wood, wood preparation, along with so many other wood coloring variables, can have a major affect on wood stain colors. Thank you again, and best wishes.
kittysoph 7 glad I could help out! Just an FYI, you really don't need a lot water added to the teal wood stain. I just do that, because I don't know what people are working with or how big the piece is, so a small piece like a guitar, just using the 70% isopropyl would be just fine and will make it a bit cleaner looking. Let the dye stain rest for an hour or two though with just the iso. They take a bit to open with just the iso as it pulls moisture away from the dyes ;) Thank you for watching 😊
I think your videos are spot on you show the best way to get the most out of the dyes & the wood, full of usful info I've tried a couple of your mixes an been really happy with the results. So thank you for taking the time to share, its appreciated. Blessings
Cool, I'm color matching a damaged transparent finish on a Yamaha bass, and this is pretty close to what I need. I'll start with your numbers and adjust. Thanks!
Thank you! That really is appreciated more than you may know 👍 Thank you so much for watching, and happy this helped out. One less I owe UA-cam for all the help I get lol
Awesome product! I have said in a few other of Kedas videos that I have used many dyes from many manufacturers and I think Keda is the best. If it cost the same as Transtint I would still buy it. I think the other brands are way to expensive. I wish you guys would make more videos. I enjoy them.
You are exactly why we do what we do. I cannot even thank you enough for your appreciation. People do not understand the complexity that goes into these wood dyes. See, this was going to be just my own personal wood dyes, but people just kept asking for some. Part of the process is: Raw materials (finding the best of the best, sampling, documenting, testing, safety evaluation, then safety evaluation with blended components, because just because something is safe alone, doesn't mean it will be safe mixed with other wood dye compounds etc), mixing the raw materials to blend the wood dyes, run the process to formulate the wood dye, curing the dye, reprocess to remove impurities, cure, drier, batch shoveling, cutting, grinding, then batch testing the wood dye colors, and if the color isn't exactly like it is supposed to be, scrap the whole batch, and start over (which happens more than you would think, because occasionally the raw materials like sulfates can vary based on the quarry location. Even the same location can vary from depth, or by the location the sulfate was located and the ground it was drawn from...sigh...anyways, batch testing as dye stain on (4) substrates and a specific white paper [special ordered has to be pure white for wood dye colors evaluation], and then if it is passes all that, a rest period for 3 weeks in a climate control (don't forget to turn and mix them or they will be uneven), and then you can start the fine grinding process. Let fine ground wood dyes rest 36 hours after the grinding (again turning and mixing) then final testing, and color control. Finally, the packaging can start. With (5) different wood dye densities, the wood dyes all need varied measures per volume to maintain the acceptable package weights to maintain a -0/+0.2 tolerance hahahaha this is the part that would push most people over the edge..lol... Anyways, enough of my rambling, I suppose I could have stopped after the first two sentences..hahaha - Summer time, we are releasing our version of a solvent based liquid dye. I think this stuff is going to send shock waves through the woodworking world ; ) Like the wood dye powders, these are going to be very color potent and high end
+Keda Wood Dyes nice to hear from you. I'm a turner and recommended Keda to many people. They think if they can't walk in woodcraft and buy it off the shelf it must not be any good. I just don't understand. They see my work and it's so much more vibrant and.....well just looks way better. Alcohol or water it works great. I use alcohol mostly because of drying time but if I use water I dry it with a hairdryer. My problem now is I can't find any quilted material! When I do I will place another order. Thanks!
I gotta say, it really is much tougher getting into retail locations than we ever could have imagined. There are quite a few hoops you have to jump through. We are trying to crack the retail nut, but it is the old catch 22. You need to be in retail locations, in order to get into retail locations. We definetly are not giving up on it though, unless Customers start demanding a product be carried, it may take some time though..sigh... We actually have only been truly selling the product online for about 2 years or so now, so I think retailers are watching to see what happens. Before that, it was basically dealing with people locally or through pure word of mouth. The kit really was designed for enhancing and saving space for retailers. A couple pegs is all that would be needed really, versus several shelves like other products. Thank you Tom, we really do appreciate your help. Email us when you place your order, I will throw a little surprise in there for you ;)
One thing I have learned with coloring wood on the lathe with these stain colors is to not over sand. I get carried away on a lathe with sanding lol so try to stop yourself around 150-180. Maybe 220 tops, but even 220 or 240 grit can be too much since the lathe sanding is so much finer than say a dual action sander or hand sanding for sure... Thank you for watching 👍
Great video! Can you explain the differences between using Alchohol or water base? I’m considering using keda dyes for staining my maple wood harp. I noticed you mentioned in a comment to a guitar builder that for smaller amounts they could use Alchohol only without adding water? Also, could you please explain your preference for keda powder vs a pre diluted dye like transtint?
Looked questionable then the outcome looked amazing. Good job dude. Um trying ti get ideas for different stains for pine coffee tables and side tables ect
If you want the stain to dry faster then alcohol wood work better. I like using alcohol for the videos to try and get them done faster. Honestly, I like mixing the powders into a splash of water first to open the powder wood dye up fast, then add the 70%- 91% rubbing alcohol. I am hoping to get an alcohol vs water video done soon if all goes smooth lol Hey thank you for watching 👍
@@mrmisterman999 lol I understand it can be nerve racking on new things, but it really is pretty easy...the wood dyes basically do all the color work for you ;) The best tip/advice I can give, practice on a scrap piece with the sealer you are using. Once you see how these really do all the work, you will feel much more confident. I will see what I can do though. Is the darn editing and the 3 days of screwing up the voice over that is part of the hold up hahaha alright, maybe not that bad, but I will see what I can do.
Awesome video! I've sanded down my skateboard half-pipe and I'm thinking of dying the skating surfaces a similar color before I put a couple coats of marine grade polyurethane on it. Do you think that would cause any problems with the polyurethane? Thanks! Paul
Nope! There wont be any trouble. After the dyes have dried, I would recommend doing a very gentle, light first coat, let that dry, then going a little heavier and more aggressive if desired. Basically, once the wood dyes have dried, they become part of the wood itself, so really just about any type of sealer will work over the top of the wood dye. Thank you so much for watching, as well as the encouraging words....It sounds like an Awesome project and a lot of fun!
Awesome video, and awesome wood dyes! I love my Keda Dye!!! I think it's so smart to use a scale to ensure an accurate recreation of certain colors. What kind of scale do you have, specifically does it measure .01g or .001g? Thanks so much!!!
+ Christi Hogue Thank you for watching. I actually am using an AWS scale Model Number BS -100 that is 100g @ .01g reading. I wanted to be sure I had a descent accurate scale, so people could follow the weights if they wanted to recreate colors. I know, I have to come back to the wood dye powders to create more formulas, but I am working on some liquid dye videos right now. Thank you again. Here is the link for the scale I use, it is a very good reliable scale from my experience: americanweighscale.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=119
Hey man, where are you out of? I've watched a ton of your videos. I restore drums quite a but, and now Im looking to restore my own for once. I like the technique you use, and was wondering where you're from. And if you'd be interested in doing some work for me.
Hey, sorry for such a late comment but the video was great and I'm thinking about using this colour for a small "project". I want to get a wooden keyboard case and dye it. If the case comes clear coated, will this still work or do I need to make any extra steps to take the coat off?
You could probably just sand it with a 150 grit sandpaper to remove the sealer then apply the stain and reseal. Should be pretty darn easy and thank you for watching 👍
Thank you! I still get so nervous making these wood staining videos. Not sure why other than numerous people may actually watch it hahaha, but the more I do it, the more relaxed I think I will get. I am glad it helps out, that was my goal. It really is pretty easy to use, and definitely is a very good, very powerful wood dye. Let me know if you have any questions along the way, and I will try my best to help you out. Wishing you all the best!
Hmmm that is a good question. If it has wood, I think it would work just fine. I would sand the wood with a 150 grit sandpaper first though, because many times certain wood products may have a light sealer coat on them to protect from moisture and discoloring. Thank you for watching 👍
More yellow to peak out the green side? I`d like to attempt more so to the Forrest Side of green. Yet not do deep/dark it hides the grain if that is logical.
I'd like to just make a quick mention, by using water you're just diluting your alcohol to probably about 40%. You could just buy 40% alcohol and ensure consistent results.
Hi, Thank you for watching, I really appreciate it. If the stabilizer is water based the dyes should be able to tint the stabiziler, but I would still recommend the liquid dyes which are much more compatible with numerous types of reagents like alcohol, lacquer thinner, acetone, water, etc. The liquid dyes really are better engineered for tinting items like shellac, lacquer, resin, stabilizer etc. They should be available on the Keda Dye Website located: www.kedadyeinc.com/ordering-information.html The Keda liquid wood dyes are very powerful, and a highly concentrated dye just in a liquid dye format that is solvent based. They also work amazing with DNA and Lacquer thinner. There is a 5 color liquid solvent dye kit option, and that would be what I would recommend for tinting solvent based stabilizers or sealers. The solvent dyes should be able to tint gallons of stabilizer with the 5 solvent dye kit, and are a very vibrant dye. The powder dyes should work as a water based option though. I hope that helps out, and thank you again for watching.
Hi Darth If the resins are water based the wood dye powders should work very well as a resin dye, otherwise if the resins are a solvent base, the Keda Liquid Dyes will be needed. The liquid dyes really are designed to be a solvent based dye, and would work better as a solvent stabilizer dye. Thank you for watching.
I am a little confused on your weights. When you say ".045", that implies that your scale is showing weight down to the thousandths, which I have never ever seen a digital scale do. Are you meaning to "say ..point 45" and "point 6"? or does your scale really read .06 and .045?????
Do you happen to know how to use these in a jar? I read a quick tutorial where the person used the orange and brown aniline dye powder to coat the inside of a jar, for Halloween... Thats what I actually came looking for, tutorials on, well, anything w those dyes bc I've never even heard of them! Thanks and I love making wood signs w the distressed look, I'm wondering how these woukd be to get a an old paint layered look of different colors... Like layer one on tip of the other, then sand thru, and have all the diff colors come thru in the places I'd sand... Woukd that even work? Lol! If that makes sense... Its hard type what I'm thinking in my head and have it make sense! Lol!
Hi Marsha thank you for watching; I really do appreciate it. First, please believe me, I understand what you mean by sometimes having difficulty getting into words what you're thinking (you may be able to tell by my videos..haha..). Maybe they need an app for that..lol.. This may be a long post and I apologize in advance, but I will try to address your post fully. To color glass (or even plastic jars) you could tint some top coat sealer with the dyes, and then dip or spray that colored sealer onto the jar. In fact, I do this to some of my mason jars I store dye stain in to help keep light away from the dye stain, and color coding my jars of dye stains with what is in each one that is left over. These wont actually tint glass, because they really are meant for wood and dying wood fibers. If you were to layer these, they would end up making new colors (blue over red = red over yellow = orange etc.), but you could apply the wood dye colors, with tinted top coat sealers, and perform that process. The tinted sealer can also be transparent, so you could spray the tinted sealers with several different colors that way, adding a new type of depth and aged look. The solvent based liquid dyes we just released work very well as a wood sealer tints, and will color wood sealers like: lacquers, shellacs, epoxy resins, polycrylic, and just about all wood sealers with the exception being oil based products(even works as a water based wood sealer tint, but so does the wood dye powders with water based sealers that is). Personally I think that would look amazing, and I definitely think it would give you an added tool for your wood finishes. If nothing else you could even go over the top of say wood paints with say transparent tinted wood sealers in a plethora of dye colors, adding a very unique touch. Anyways, yes this is a fairly new product actually. The wood dye kit was actually developed in a woodworker's workshop, because he was so tired of paying a fortune for wood colorants that were mediocre at best, or costed a weeks pay for just a few dye colors after the shipping and handling. The wood dyes actually started out as personal use, but people continued to ask for what he was making and the 5 wood dye colors kit was born. That woodworker was me, and I started selling the dye kit online around 2013. It really is just a hobby for me at this time, because I definitely do not receive enough sales to make a living at this point, but I do enjoy what I do, and I love seeing people's amazing talents, and the work done with an idea I had. I don't know if I ever will be able to make a living from this, but I hope some day I can, so the business can be around, even after I have left this beautiful World. I do enjoy offering what I feel is a better quality product at a more reasonable price point for fellow crafters and woodworkers. I gotta say it is a good clean feeling to be able to give back. Well, sorry this got so long, but I hope something in here has helped you out. Thank you again... Your Fan, Keith
+Keda Wood Dyes thank u sooo much, for answering my questions, and sooo fast! Lol, I said to a fellow prim crafter, I'd let her know too, what I've come up w, after u answr and I said, it may be a while, I'm never sure how closely some you tubers follow their posts, and some never answr at all, lol! But, I did see you answrr someone in July so that is always a good sign! Wow! Wow, to have something u did as a passion, then make it and sell it, for other to use, is amazing! The tutorial I saw, or read, was kind of short, they just they sprayed orange spray paint inside the jar, very lightly, to coat, then used orange aniline dye, and I was like What in the world is that?! When I Google it, the definition was scary, lol, to say the least! All I saw was toxic, toxins, etc.. And I work out of my apartment, lol, so using toxins of that, well, toxicity level, isn't very good! As it is, if I have a lot of spray painting to do, I have to wait til the cover of darkness, & my child is at my parents on the reg weekend visit (which I'm so lucky for!), so I can sneak out to the parking lot & spray... But then I saw ur you tube videos. I was hoping it was the same thing. I wish I coukd send u a screen shot of what he wrote, and how it looks... He then says he used another color, over the orange and that's what gave it the dirty, grunged look. But, from ur saying, I'm thinking, I mix the dye w water? Then put it into the sealer? I'm fairly new at all this, I'm more of an acrylic paint, and mod podge, glue type crafter. I was seal most everything, bc w wood, I use chalk paint, and that's more bc I can't afford milk paints, lol, and I make my own chalk paint at home, lol! Then when the orange dries, i run the brown on the inside? Is there a way to send you pictures of the jar, and what he wrote? It'd be much easier, and it was written in 2011 so, I'm not sure if anything is different, but seems like things change in just 6mo! Thanks again for taking the time to answer me! I am def a follower, and will def read up and watch more of your vids, and I bet, if u get the word out to people in the craft world, or even a popular blogger u can team up w, word will get out, bc people are always looking for a less expensive, easier way to get an old world look! Also, are u on Instagram? A lot of blogs I follow are on their, and even someone super duper small like me, gets a lot of views in a short time! Oh, one more thing, I heard u say, it depends on how well the weed is prepped, so it this like milk paint, in that it has to done on bare wood to work? Or will it actually penetrate thru finishes? Another reason I haven't bothered really, w milk paint, I just don't have the appropriate wood working area for all that! Lol, I bought a second hand, hand sander, and OMG, when I plugged that sucker in, and gave it a go, INSIDE my apartment, a Hahaa!!!! I thought I woke the entire building up! Lol! It was after work one night, baaaddddd idea... Back to hand sanding, and my sander sits.. Lol! So, right now, chalk paint is the most workable, maybe not the best... But, hopefully, maybe, this can be a better way to get the look I want?
+Keda Wood Dyes lol, meee, again... Sorry! I sent u a message thru FB, w pics, I found ur page, yeay! And, I reread that tutorial, it says to use water-based varnish w amber aniline dye... But I'm thinking, if I ordered the pack u sell, w the diff colors, I can mix an amberish color... So that should work! And, where it's all nontoxic, I'm totally ecstatic!!!! Thanks again! I'm hoping there is a way to layer the colors, without having them blend now! Bc I LOVE that orange, and the teal over orange, then maybe a white paint over that, and sand thru in a bunch of different areas, would look soooo cool! Have just the teal show in some spots, and then have it go right to the orange in other spots, then go to bare wood on yet other spots, but still see the teal and orange on the outsides of the sanded spots! That is my Fav look, just pretty colors, all underneath, or even crackle it thru... I'm just hoping there's a way to get the colors to not blend? Lol, amd I getting wayyy ahead of myself here?!!? Lol, I love getting on a roll, where ur heart pounds a little faster, and ur mind is going, with tons of ideas... Then later, u don't remember half of them! Lol! Anyway, thanks again for ur help! Glad I found u! And I'll share whatever I see of urs, where ever ur at! 😊😉
+Marsha the WOOD IS PREPPED, NOT WEED!!! Lol, I just saw that typo, lol, stupid phone, I was talking about weeding w my mom, lol, not the smoked type, so it must have changed my wording, lol! The smoked type, makes me far too paranoid, so I gave it up, in my teens, lol!
+Marsha hahahaha.... I love it! Okay, so I was thinking a little about your wood sign projects. You could also color the sign with all teal wood stain first right, and then seal it with shellac or other top coat sealers. Then sand through that teal color into the fresh wood underneath again, and then apply the orange dye stain or visa versa. Then just seal the entire thing. I saw the colored jar pic you sent on FB, and absolutely the wood dye kit would work for that. You could even run the same color theme on the jars as you do your signs if you wanted, and if you sell them online on Etsy, or somewhere, you could offer a package deal to Customers for the both signs and jars. Now I am even getting excited for you! I know you will knock it out of the park, and if you have any questions along the way, just ask me, and I will try to help out where I am able.
Natasha Verma Michigan, but basically you could hire a standard floor refinisher, and tell them to apply the stain of your choice. This color is actually pretty easy to get and work with. So if you are looking for a lighter version you could just add a little more water or alcohol. If trying to make a gallon and a half (for lighter coloring of this Teal wood stain color) you could take 1.5 gallons of warm water or rubbing alcohol and mix 8 grams of the blue dye, and 0.96 grams or 1 gram of the yellow. So basically an 8:1 ratio. I hope that helps you out and thank you again for watching 😁
I have a question I’m trying to do a color match is there any way you would message me your email so I can send some pictures of the color I’m trying to achieve?
I have tried just about EVERY wood coloring and combination of products lol I really have. I got so tired and frustrated with spending 100s on colorings, to find it took half the bottle to make a descent color, wouldnt last more than a day after mixed, or looked great for the first month, then looked awful 2-3 months later, or spend enough money on a couple colors I could have bought a floor saw or something. Anyways, I really wouldnt recommend it. Food coloring, food dye, and many other colorants are made for short term coloring, and will look horrendous after a couple months. They really arent made or engineered for coloring wood well. It just isnt worth it, especially with 60,000 different wood types and all the time and resources put into the wood projects. Coloring food is much different than coloring wood 🤷♂️
Ed Hebert It is a curly maple, and I believe it is a sugar maple versus the silver maple which is softer than the sugar maple. I wouldn't call it a "True" curly maple, but it does have curly maple characteristics :) Thank you for watching 👍
Basca dog Basca dog working on it but man Cocobolo, Koa, Walnut, Swamp Ash, cottonwood, etc. all that stuff is pretty expensive for me cause much of it I have to have shipped, since there is none native to me. I am actually working on a Cocobolo Rosewood with a turquoise dye color from a request right now as well as some Koa, but I can imagine how this is going to go. I do that, then some people are going to say, do black walnut, do mohagany, do swamp Ash, cottonwood, box elder, apple wood, cherry, etc. I am in the very Northern reaches of USA - Maple, Oak, Pine are all pretty cheap for me which is why I was using them and is what I have had access to all my life. I have to get alot of other woods shipped in to me which can get quite pricey. Almost all wood samples in stores are done on Oak and Maple (well at least here they are) which is why I thought it would be a good option. I mean I have done Oak, Pine, birch, burled amboyna, weathered treated lumber, pine veneer boards, maple and oak veneer, rotary maple, plain sliced maple, curly maple, silver maple, curly quilt rock maple, flamed maple, so just trying to understand what wood specifically are looking for with that statement?
Better Late Than Never most likely, I'm guessing add a little bit of blue to yellow. I don't know measurements and stuff but I guess just add little by little of more yellow than blue until you get the right colour? Don't take my word by any of this I'm just assuming it's something like that, I hope this helped :)
You teach thousands of people to find projects and hobbies that bring happiness to their lives. There's nothing to be nervous about! Thank you!
Thank you! I really do appreciate that more than you may realize. I think I am getting a little more settled. Just working on finalizing a new product additive, which I am pretty excited about, and projecting I will be back at the videos very soon 👍 Thank you for watching, as well as you're more than welcomed reassuring words :)
@@KedaWoodDye I can't wait to see what's next! Keep 'em coming!
I just came upon your video, I am always looking for new things to do with wood and voila there you are! You did not seem nervous at all in the video, I appreciated the slower pace so that I can wrap my head around what I want to do with some pieces I have. Teal is the color I am going for and I just might add some orange too! Keep up the good work and look forward to more videos.
Thank you! I really do appreciate that more than you know. I will have a "Gray Stain" formula coming out this coming week. I appreciate you 🙏
Glad I ran across this one, love the teal. I was just going to try to make this with my Meta dye kit! These dyes are great! I bought some 3x3 pcs of wood and test my colors on there, awesome. I tweak that color then go to my guitar bodies.
Thank you, your videos are a great help!
Pam
Happy I could help out :) Thank you for watching
You don't know how helpful your video has been to me. Finding a premixed teal stain is nearly an impossible task. Frankly I'm worn out from trying to find it. I have a new custom bass being built and it's just about ready for finish. The resulting color in your video is just what I'm looking for. Your video is excellent and I now have the confidence to mix my own dyes. Hopefully I'll be able o find the Keda stain kit you used. Thanks again for your effort on this video!
Thank you! I am SOOO glad I could help out. The great thing about this wood dye kit is you really can make numerous wood stain colors, and adjust those colors to your own personal preferences. That makes a huge difference, since the wood, wood preparation, along with so many other wood coloring variables, can have a major affect on wood stain colors. Thank you again, and best wishes.
That looks amazing and it's the exact colour I've been looking for for my guitar. Definitely need these wood stains. Thank you :3
kittysoph 7 glad I could help out! Just an FYI, you really don't need a lot water added to the teal wood stain. I just do that, because I don't know what people are working with or how big the piece is, so a small piece like a guitar, just using the 70% isopropyl would be just fine and will make it a bit cleaner looking. Let the dye stain rest for an hour or two though with just the iso. They take a bit to open with just the iso as it pulls moisture away from the dyes ;) Thank you for watching 😊
I think your videos are spot on you show the best way to get the most out of the dyes & the wood, full of usful info I've tried a couple of your mixes an been really happy with the results. So thank you for taking the time to share, its appreciated. Blessings
Cool, I'm color matching a damaged transparent finish on a Yamaha bass, and this is pretty close to what I need. I'll start with your numbers and adjust. Thanks!
That looks so good!!!! Dark works for me. I prefer that more than light colors.
Amazing tutorial, looks absolutely beautiful! Thank you for the tips, your videos are fantastic. Can't wait for my dyes to arrive from the US soon!
No need to be nervous, great job with the vid!
Thank you! That really is appreciated more than you may know 👍 Thank you so much for watching, and happy this helped out. One less I owe UA-cam for all the help I get lol
Awesome product! I have said in a few other of Kedas videos that I have used many dyes from many manufacturers and I think Keda is the best. If it cost the same as Transtint I would still buy it. I think the other brands are way to expensive. I wish you guys would make more videos. I enjoy them.
You are exactly why we do what we do. I cannot even thank you enough for your appreciation. People do not understand the complexity that goes into these wood dyes. See, this was going to be just my own personal wood dyes, but people just kept asking for some. Part of the process is: Raw materials (finding the best of the best, sampling, documenting, testing, safety evaluation, then safety evaluation with blended components, because just because something is safe alone, doesn't mean it will be safe mixed with other wood dye compounds etc), mixing the raw materials to blend the wood dyes, run the process to formulate the wood dye, curing the dye, reprocess to remove impurities, cure, drier, batch shoveling, cutting, grinding, then batch testing the wood dye colors, and if the color isn't exactly like it is supposed to be, scrap the whole batch, and start over (which happens more than you would think, because occasionally the raw materials like sulfates can vary based on the quarry location. Even the same location can vary from depth, or by the location the sulfate was located and the ground it was drawn from...sigh...anyways, batch testing as dye stain on (4) substrates and a specific white paper [special ordered has to be pure white for wood dye colors evaluation], and then if it is passes all that, a rest period for 3 weeks in a climate control (don't forget to turn and mix them or they will be uneven), and then you can start the fine grinding process.
Let fine ground wood dyes rest 36 hours after the grinding (again turning and mixing) then final testing, and color control. Finally, the packaging can start. With (5) different wood dye densities, the wood dyes all need varied measures per volume to maintain the acceptable package weights to maintain a -0/+0.2 tolerance hahahaha this is the part that would push most people over the edge..lol...
Anyways, enough of my rambling, I suppose I could have stopped after the first two sentences..hahaha - Summer time, we are releasing our version of a solvent based liquid dye. I think this stuff is going to send shock waves through the woodworking world ; ) Like the wood dye powders, these are going to be very color potent and high end
+Keda Wood Dyes nice to hear from you. I'm a turner and recommended Keda to many people. They think if they can't walk in woodcraft and buy it off the shelf it must not be any good. I just don't understand. They see my work and it's so much more vibrant and.....well just looks way better. Alcohol or water it works great. I use alcohol mostly because of drying time but if I use water I dry it with a hairdryer. My problem now is I can't find any quilted material! When I do I will place another order. Thanks!
I gotta say, it really is much tougher getting into retail locations than we ever could have imagined. There are quite a few hoops you have to jump through. We are trying to crack the retail nut, but it is the old catch 22. You need to be in retail locations, in order to get into retail locations. We definetly are not giving up on it though, unless Customers start demanding a product be carried, it may take some time though..sigh... We actually have only been truly selling the product online for about 2 years or so now, so I think retailers are watching to see what happens. Before that, it was basically dealing with people locally or through pure word of mouth. The kit really was designed for enhancing and saving space for retailers. A couple pegs is all that would be needed really, versus several shelves like other products. Thank you Tom, we really do appreciate your help. Email us when you place your order, I will throw a little surprise in there for you ;)
Looking forward to trying it on my wood turnings. Thanks
One thing I have learned with coloring wood on the lathe with these stain colors is to not over sand. I get carried away on a lathe with sanding lol so try to stop yourself around 150-180. Maybe 220 tops, but even 220 or 240 grit can be too much since the lathe sanding is so much finer than say a dual action sander or hand sanding for sure... Thank you for watching 👍
@@KedaWoodDye Thanks for the heads up.
@@toddyork226 happy I could help out 👍
Thank you! Can’t wait to try this.
Great video! Can you explain the differences between using Alchohol or water base? I’m considering using keda dyes for staining my maple wood harp.
I noticed you mentioned in a comment to a guitar builder that for smaller amounts they could use Alchohol only without adding water?
Also, could you please explain your preference for keda powder vs a pre diluted dye like transtint?
Great video, thanks explains the complete process, great explanations
Thank you my friend, I am glad I could help out.....
That's the exact color I want to stain this old table top I just purchased. I hope it looks close to that good in the end
Beautiful like an expensive guitar 🎸
Thank you 👍🥰😉
You do a great job, but instead of just a piece of wood, I would love to see an entire finished project.
thx for this vid! I am dying my desk blue to match my white and blue computer setup
Love the color! Thanks for the info!
Thank you so much! I tried mixing many different colors like green, blue, white, etc. and could never get that color.
Looked questionable then the outcome looked amazing. Good job dude. Um trying ti get ideas for different stains for pine coffee tables and side tables ect
What technique do you recommend for a lot of concave and convex surfaces?
Is it better to use water or the isopropyl alcohol?
If you want the stain to dry faster then alcohol wood work better. I like using alcohol for the videos to try and get them done faster. Honestly, I like mixing the powders into a splash of water first to open the powder wood dye up fast, then add the 70%- 91% rubbing alcohol. I am hoping to get an alcohol vs water video done soon if all goes smooth lol Hey thank you for watching 👍
@@KedaWoodDye cool. I have a guitar I want to stain and don't want to screw it up. Maybe I'll wait for your video.
@@mrmisterman999 lol I understand it can be nerve racking on new things, but it really is pretty easy...the wood dyes basically do all the color work for you ;) The best tip/advice I can give, practice on a scrap piece with the sealer you are using. Once you see how these really do all the work, you will feel much more confident. I will see what I can do though. Is the darn editing and the 3 days of screwing up the voice over that is part of the hold up hahaha alright, maybe not that bad, but I will see what I can do.
Awesome video! I've sanded down my skateboard half-pipe and I'm thinking of dying the skating surfaces a similar color before I put a couple coats of marine grade polyurethane on it. Do you think that would cause any problems with the polyurethane? Thanks! Paul
Nope! There wont be any trouble. After the dyes have dried, I would recommend doing a very gentle, light first coat, let that dry, then going a little heavier and more aggressive if desired. Basically, once the wood dyes have dried, they become part of the wood itself, so really just about any type of sealer will work over the top of the wood dye. Thank you so much for watching, as well as the encouraging words....It sounds like an Awesome project and a lot of fun!
hi, isopropyl alcohol seems to be hard to fin in the uk can you use methylated spirits instead?
What kind of wood did you use for this staining process? I'm trying to decide what kind of wood I want to use!
Awesome video, and awesome wood dyes! I love my Keda Dye!!! I think it's so smart to use a scale to ensure an accurate recreation of certain colors. What kind of scale do you have, specifically does it measure .01g or .001g? Thanks so much!!!
+ Christi Hogue Thank you for watching. I actually am using an AWS scale Model Number BS -100 that is 100g @ .01g reading. I wanted to be sure I had a descent accurate scale, so people could follow the weights if they wanted to recreate colors. I know, I have to come back to the wood dye powders to create more formulas, but I am working on some liquid dye videos right now. Thank you again.
Here is the link for the scale I use, it is a very good reliable scale from my experience:
americanweighscale.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=119
Keda Wood Dyes Perfect! Thanks for replying quickly 😁
Is it better to use the dye on bare sanded wood and not use a pre-stain conditioner?
Hey man, where are you out of? I've watched a ton of your videos. I restore drums quite a but, and now Im looking to restore my own for once. I like the technique you use, and was wondering where you're from. And if you'd be interested in doing some work for me.
Hey, sorry for such a late comment but the video was great and I'm thinking about using this colour for a small "project".
I want to get a wooden keyboard case and dye it. If the case comes clear coated, will this still work or do I need to make any extra steps to take the coat off?
You could probably just sand it with a 150 grit sandpaper to remove the sealer then apply the stain and reseal. Should be pretty darn easy and thank you for watching 👍
@@KedaWoodDye Wow thanks for the fast reply. I'm definitely a subscriber now, Thanks for all the help :)
Thanks
Thank you 😊
great video! I'm definitely going to try this!
Thank you! I still get so nervous making these wood staining videos. Not sure why other than numerous people may actually watch it hahaha, but the more I do it, the more relaxed I think I will get. I am glad it helps out, that was my goal. It really is pretty easy to use, and definitely is a very good, very powerful wood dye. Let me know if you have any questions along the way, and I will try my best to help you out.
Wishing you all the best!
Keda Wood Dye Good Job! Even if you are nervous! I am more nervous to try it on an existing table.
Can you do a lime green? I just got my Kedo Wood Dye Kit
can i use this on a paper back wood veneer with 3M adhesive on the back?
Hmmm that is a good question. If it has wood, I think it would work just fine. I would sand the wood with a 150 grit sandpaper first though, because many times certain wood products may have a light sealer coat on them to protect from moisture and discoloring. Thank you for watching 👍
You're doing great, man. Keep it up! :)
You are a master!!!
More yellow to peak out the green side? I`d like to attempt more so to the Forrest Side of green. Yet not do deep/dark it hides the grain if that is logical.
I'd like to just make a quick mention, by using water you're just diluting your alcohol to probably about 40%. You could just buy 40% alcohol and ensure consistent results.
Can you do a Lime Green?
Hello!
Can I paint resin for wood vacuum stabilization by these dyes?
Hi,
Thank you for watching, I really appreciate it. If the stabilizer is water based the dyes should be able to tint the stabiziler, but I would still recommend the liquid dyes which are much more compatible with numerous types of reagents like alcohol, lacquer thinner, acetone, water, etc. The liquid dyes really are better engineered for tinting items like shellac, lacquer, resin, stabilizer etc. They should be available on the Keda Dye Website located: www.kedadyeinc.com/ordering-information.html
The Keda liquid wood dyes are very powerful, and a highly concentrated dye just in a liquid dye format that is solvent based. They also work amazing with DNA and Lacquer thinner. There is a 5 color liquid solvent dye kit option, and that would be what I would recommend for tinting solvent based stabilizers or sealers. The solvent dyes should be able to tint gallons of stabilizer with the 5 solvent dye kit, and are a very vibrant dye. The powder dyes should work as a water based option though. I hope that helps out, and thank you again for watching.
Thank you for such a detailed answer! I will try your dyes because they are very colorful.
Hi Darth
If the resins are water based the wood dye powders should work very well as a resin dye, otherwise if the resins are a solvent base, the Keda Liquid Dyes will be needed. The liquid dyes really are designed to be a solvent based dye, and would work better as a solvent stabilizer dye.
Thank you for watching.
Thats beautiful
Katherine Venes Thank you for watching :)
Super cool
Thank You. I Liked the Video. Gives me the plans I need for my Guitar Body.
I am a little confused on your weights. When you say ".045", that implies that your scale is showing weight down to the thousandths, which I have never ever seen a digital scale do. Are you meaning to "say ..point 45" and "point 6"? or does your scale really read .06 and .045?????
Oh, and are you weighing in grams?
Do you happen to know how to use these in a jar? I read a quick tutorial where the person used the orange and brown aniline dye powder to coat the inside of a jar, for Halloween... Thats what I actually came looking for, tutorials on, well, anything w those dyes bc I've never even heard of them! Thanks and I love making wood signs w the distressed look, I'm wondering how these woukd be to get a an old paint layered look of different colors... Like layer one on tip of the other, then sand thru, and have all the diff colors come thru in the places I'd sand... Woukd that even work? Lol! If that makes sense... Its hard type what I'm thinking in my head and have it make sense! Lol!
Hi Marsha thank you for watching; I really do appreciate it. First, please believe me, I understand what you mean by sometimes having difficulty getting into words what you're thinking (you may be able to tell by my videos..haha..). Maybe they need an app for that..lol.. This may be a long post and I apologize in advance, but I will try to address your post fully.
To color glass (or even plastic jars) you could tint some top coat sealer with the dyes, and then dip or spray that colored sealer onto the jar. In fact, I do this to some of my mason jars I store dye stain in to help keep light away from the dye stain, and color coding my jars of dye stains with what is in each one that is left over. These wont actually tint glass, because they really are meant for wood and dying wood fibers. If you were to layer these, they would end up making new colors (blue over red = red over yellow = orange etc.), but you could apply the wood dye colors, with tinted top coat sealers, and perform that process. The tinted sealer can also be transparent, so you could spray the tinted sealers with several different colors that way, adding a new type of depth and aged look. The solvent based liquid dyes we just released work very well as a wood sealer tints, and will color wood sealers like: lacquers, shellacs, epoxy resins, polycrylic, and just about all wood sealers with the exception being oil based products(even works as a water based wood sealer tint, but so does the wood dye powders with water based sealers that is). Personally I think that would look amazing, and I definitely think it would give you an added tool for your wood finishes. If nothing else you could even go over the top of say wood paints with say transparent tinted wood sealers in a plethora of dye colors, adding a very unique touch.
Anyways, yes this is a fairly new product actually. The wood dye kit was actually developed in a woodworker's workshop, because he was so tired of paying a fortune for wood colorants that were mediocre at best, or costed a weeks pay for just a few dye colors after the shipping and handling. The wood dyes actually started out as personal use, but people continued to ask for what he was making and the 5 wood dye colors kit was born. That woodworker was me, and I started selling the dye kit online around 2013. It really is just a hobby for me at this time, because I definitely do not receive enough sales to make a living at this point, but I do enjoy what I do, and I love seeing people's amazing talents, and the work done with an idea I had. I don't know if I ever will be able to make a living from this, but I hope some day I can, so the business can be around, even after I have left this beautiful World. I do enjoy offering what I feel is a better quality product at a more reasonable price point for fellow crafters and woodworkers. I gotta say it is a good clean feeling to be able to give back. Well, sorry this got so long, but I hope something in here has helped you out.
Thank you again...
Your Fan,
Keith
+Keda Wood Dyes thank u sooo much, for answering my questions, and sooo fast! Lol, I said to a fellow prim crafter, I'd let her know too, what I've come up w, after u answr and I said, it may be a while, I'm never sure how closely some you tubers follow their posts, and some never answr at all, lol! But, I did see you answrr someone in July so that is always a good sign! Wow! Wow, to have something u did as a passion, then make it and sell it, for other to use, is amazing! The tutorial I saw, or read, was kind of short, they just they sprayed orange spray paint inside the jar, very lightly, to coat, then used orange aniline dye, and I was like What in the world is that?! When I Google it, the definition was scary, lol, to say the least! All I saw was toxic, toxins, etc.. And I work out of my apartment, lol, so using toxins of that, well, toxicity level, isn't very good! As it is, if I have a lot of spray painting to do, I have to wait til the cover of darkness, & my child is at my parents on the reg weekend visit (which I'm so lucky for!), so I can sneak out to the parking lot & spray... But then I saw ur you tube videos. I was hoping it was the same thing. I wish I coukd send u a screen shot of what he wrote, and how it looks... He then says he used another color, over the orange and that's what gave it the dirty, grunged look. But, from ur saying, I'm thinking, I mix the dye w water? Then put it into the sealer? I'm fairly new at all this, I'm more of an acrylic paint, and mod podge, glue type crafter. I was seal most everything, bc w wood, I use chalk paint, and that's more bc I can't afford milk paints, lol, and I make my own chalk paint at home, lol! Then when the orange dries, i run the brown on the inside? Is there a way to send you pictures of the jar, and what he wrote? It'd be much easier, and it was written in 2011 so, I'm not sure if anything is different, but seems like things change in just 6mo! Thanks again for taking the time to answer me! I am def a follower, and will def read up and watch more of your vids, and I bet, if u get the word out to people in the craft world, or even a popular blogger u can team up w, word will get out, bc people are always looking for a less expensive, easier way to get an old world look! Also, are u on Instagram? A lot of blogs I follow are on their, and even someone super duper small like me, gets a lot of views in a short time! Oh, one more thing, I heard u say, it depends on how well the weed is prepped, so it this like milk paint, in that it has to done on bare wood to work? Or will it actually penetrate thru finishes? Another reason I haven't bothered really, w milk paint, I just don't have the appropriate wood working area for all that! Lol, I bought a second hand, hand sander, and OMG, when I plugged that sucker in, and gave it a go, INSIDE my apartment, a Hahaa!!!! I thought I woke the entire building up! Lol! It was after work one night, baaaddddd idea... Back to hand sanding, and my sander sits.. Lol! So, right now, chalk paint is the most workable, maybe not the best... But, hopefully, maybe, this can be a better way to get the look I want?
+Keda Wood Dyes lol, meee, again... Sorry! I sent u a message thru FB, w pics, I found ur page, yeay! And, I reread that tutorial, it says to use water-based varnish w amber aniline dye... But I'm thinking, if I ordered the pack u sell, w the diff colors, I can mix an amberish color... So that should work! And, where it's all nontoxic, I'm totally ecstatic!!!! Thanks again! I'm hoping there is a way to layer the colors, without having them blend now! Bc I LOVE that orange, and the teal over orange, then maybe a white paint over that, and sand thru in a bunch of different areas, would look soooo cool! Have just the teal show in some spots, and then have it go right to the orange in other spots, then go to bare wood on yet other spots, but still see the teal and orange on the outsides of the sanded spots! That is my Fav look, just pretty colors, all underneath, or even crackle it thru... I'm just hoping there's a way to get the colors to not blend? Lol, amd I getting wayyy ahead of myself here?!!? Lol, I love getting on a roll, where ur heart pounds a little faster, and ur mind is going, with tons of ideas... Then later, u don't remember half of them! Lol! Anyway, thanks again for ur help! Glad I found u! And I'll share whatever I see of urs, where ever ur at! 😊😉
+Marsha the WOOD IS PREPPED, NOT WEED!!! Lol, I just saw that typo, lol, stupid phone, I was talking about weeding w my mom, lol, not the smoked type, so it must have changed my wording, lol! The smoked type, makes me far too paranoid, so I gave it up, in my teens, lol!
+Marsha hahahaha.... I love it! Okay, so I was thinking a little about your wood sign projects. You could also color the sign with all teal wood stain first right, and then seal it with shellac or other top coat sealers. Then sand through that teal color into the fresh wood underneath again, and then apply the orange dye stain or visa versa. Then just seal the entire thing. I saw the colored jar pic you sent on FB, and absolutely the wood dye kit would work for that. You could even run the same color theme on the jars as you do your signs if you wanted, and if you sell them online on Etsy, or somewhere, you could offer a package deal to Customers for the both signs and jars.
Now I am even getting excited for you! I know you will knock it out of the park, and if you have any questions along the way, just ask me, and I will try to help out where I am able.
i want to do my wood floors that are currently honey oak, and make them light teal. i am looking for somebody in se michigan to do it
Natasha Verma Michigan, but basically you could hire a standard floor refinisher, and tell them to apply the stain of your choice. This color is actually pretty easy to get and work with. So if you are looking for a lighter version you could just add a little more water or alcohol. If trying to make a gallon and a half (for lighter coloring of this Teal wood stain color) you could take 1.5 gallons of warm water or rubbing alcohol and mix 8 grams of the blue dye, and 0.96 grams or 1 gram of the yellow. So basically an 8:1 ratio. I hope that helps you out and thank you again for watching 😁
I have a question I’m trying to do a color match is there any way you would message me your email so I can send some pictures of the color I’m trying to achieve?
Have you ever tried easter egg dye colors?
I have tried just about EVERY wood coloring and combination of products lol I really have. I got so tired and frustrated with spending 100s on colorings, to find it took half the bottle to make a descent color, wouldnt last more than a day after mixed, or looked great for the first month, then looked awful 2-3 months later, or spend enough money on a couple colors I could have bought a floor saw or something. Anyways, I really wouldnt recommend it. Food coloring, food dye, and many other colorants are made for short term coloring, and will look horrendous after a couple months. They really arent made or engineered for coloring wood well. It just isnt worth it, especially with 60,000 different wood types and all the time and resources put into the wood projects. Coloring food is much different than coloring wood 🤷♂️
Do you know what kind of wood this is?
Ed Hebert It is a curly maple, and I believe it is a sugar maple versus the silver maple which is softer than the sugar maple. I wouldn't call it a "True" curly maple, but it does have curly maple characteristics :) Thank you for watching 👍
Something other than Maple would be nice. Every video seems to be the same wood.
Basca dog Basca dog working on it but man Cocobolo, Koa, Walnut, Swamp Ash, cottonwood, etc. all that stuff is pretty expensive for me cause much of it I have to have shipped, since there is none native to me. I am actually working on a Cocobolo Rosewood with a turquoise dye color from a request right now as well as some Koa, but I can imagine how this is going to go. I do that, then some people are going to say, do black walnut, do mohagany, do swamp Ash, cottonwood, box elder, apple wood, cherry, etc. I am in the very Northern reaches of USA - Maple, Oak, Pine are all pretty cheap for me which is why I was using them and is what I have had access to all my life. I have to get alot of other woods shipped in to me which can get quite pricey. Almost all wood samples in stores are done on Oak and Maple (well at least here they are) which is why I thought it would be a good option. I mean I have done Oak, Pine, birch, burled amboyna, weathered treated lumber, pine veneer boards, maple and oak veneer, rotary maple, plain sliced maple, curly maple, silver maple, curly quilt rock maple, flamed maple, so just trying to understand what wood specifically are looking for with that statement?
BECAUSE THIS IS A TEST PIECE, DON'T TELL US WHAT YOU NOT CONCERNED? SHOW US HOW YOU MANIPULATE IT?
Huh?
Can you do a lime green? I just got my Kedo Wood Dye Kit
Can you do a Lime Green?
Better Late Than Never most likely, I'm guessing add a little bit of blue to yellow. I don't know measurements and stuff but I guess just add little by little of more yellow than blue until you get the right colour? Don't take my word by any of this I'm just assuming it's something like that, I hope this helped :)
Can you do a Lime Green?