I had always heard to replace both sprockets when the chain is replaced. However, I never heard anyone mention changing just the front sprocket. This is why I enjoy your videos so much! Always educational! Thanks Del and Penny.
Nice to see you back in Delboy's Garage - spot on vid again. Especially like the way you don't edit out all the stuff we're likely to encounter like stuck bolts etc. Interesting that you're considering swapping over to cable clutch. Can't help thinking that bikes have become more complicated for very little gain over the years. Handy looking bus spanner you had for the front sprocket.
Thank you kindly, buddy, I always feel that if something makes sense to someone who's never heard of it, then it's good logic - believe it or not, you will actually notice a difference when you ride it, it will be smoother and less clunky through the gears, which proves it has to be of benefit - you're packing out the chain gaps, which prevents rubbing and wearing that will shorten the chain's life - Cheers, Del
Watched your vid on front sprocket change on your Triumph Tiger (2015), and now watched this vid on a front sprocket change on your old Bandit. as previously stated I will change the front sprocket on my B12s tomorrow. Many Thanks for this video.
This one helped me out BIG time. Still going through the crazy changes the previous owner has done to the bike. Previous owner had a 520 on my Bandit 1200 which broke and flew off down the road so not thinking I just ordered a new 530 but ended up needing to get both new sprockets and while replacing I found I needed the slave seal as well.
Jeremiah Harkins Hi mate...aint it always the same, why do people take such dumbass shortcuts... at least you didnt end up with it wrapped round your left ankle... good luck with it buddy.. cheers, Del.
Never mind mate, with the OCD I feel your pain brother! What I forgot to do is show my favourite trick of when in the coffee shop nick a fistful of those wooden stirring sticks they give you with your latte as they are brilliant for scraping out the crud, then just rob a pair of Madge's marigolds and get stuck in! And careful you don't tread a blob of it in the house as you'll need a cricket box or a week off work to recover !
thanks for the vids del they are awesome, had to change the chain and sprockets on a 82 honda CB TDC 125. its the same principle as the bandits to fit. keep them coming
Thanks mate, its great to know that the message is getting out and actually changing the way new bikers think about their bike... take care mate... Del.
Quote from a forum member I sent to your channel- " Del boy makes a good point about the seals being in the right way up, I doubt I would of noticed that". Another biker helped out and another subscriber for you lol.
Hi Alex..im not entirely sure on the anatomy of your Magna, but generally no, the seal is not a pressure seal, its just there to stop the oil that splashes about the other side of the pushrod from passing through t the slave side..on the Bandit you just take the retaining plate off and pop it out, comes with a steel insert to keep it in shape. i would imagine that even if there is oil the other side, it wont be under any pressure, maybe just tilt the bike so it drains away from the seal..GL, Del
Too right, mate, if in doubt drill it out! ... This is a great fix when you mince the cast alloy threads in your brake caliper mountings, just run an 8mm drill straight through and poke a nut on the back... job done!
Makes me realise just how much i have forgotten over the years, can't even remember how to drill bolts out properly lol.....how on earth i rebuilt my AJS i'll never know, great video as always
This is my last issue Thanks your videos have kept the total cost of my bike to 650.00 for the bike and the repairs I'm sure I could have pulled it off with out these videos. But they were great help you are a great Instructor and I used to be a Nissan/ Ford instructor again thanks
No anyone that can deliver instruction in a calm collect way that anyone can understand is a great instructor now lets get you in front of 30 adult kids fresh out of high school and fresh from the war you can do it
Dear lawd I got those screws out . Had to DC the hydraulic line and heat it up but I didn't strip the screws, damn they were in tight. Funny how old these comments are, I'm just now doing my 99 and I've owned it since new, it's still almost pristine and have a couple vids riding to the mountains. Definitely easier than that steering stem bearing.Thanks for the vid Del hope alls good with you.
Darn right on the cuppa, tiz the essential garage lubricant! Give the sprocket thing a try, it will feel like you've changed the whole set and save you a fortune by prolonging it's life!
You are quite right, that sprocket fits several bikes, inc. the Hayabusa, and on some those holes are for a retaining washer, my point was that you CAN use them as 'draw bolt holes' if the sprocket is jammed in place, although this very rarely happens as it is not a machine fit!
Had no idea about the front sprocket, i always got the idea it was harder and lasted the same as the back. When i changed mine last year (2300 miles ago) it was so full of much, must have been about 2" thick but have to say it was not all me as i only just had it about 6 months by then and was changing it to pass my MOT so i will now keep that in mind. Great video as always and love the fade editing, bet that takes more time lol.
Great video man. I've commented on a few and requested some silly things that you just happen to do right when i'm asking. I noticed your video's are more broken up and your explinations makes it easier to understand the working machanics of pretty much every time. Thanks again for taking time out to show us novious machanics..haha. cheers!
First do a full system check, start the bike from cold, allow it to heat right up till the fan kicks in, then switch off...if the gauge fails to move at all, then check for wiring faults, maybe a loose or broken connection, and if you are getting a full live feed from the sendor to the gauge, it can only be a faulty sendor, not too expensive to replace - if you've just bought it, wouldn't be a bad idea to do a full coolant change too, it can often be crud in the system, good luck, Del
Cheers Bazza, always appreciate you watching, mate, we did indeed have some smashing ham, egg 'n chips down at Poole Quay and caught up with some old biker mates we'd lost touch with, all in all, a smashing day! Ride safe, mate, Del
Ha did mine a week or so ago and put a couple of helicoils in, didn't think of drilling through but it a good fix especially with a couple of stainless dome allens. Nice job...
Hi Neil, that is logic in principle, but looking at the environment they live in, it's absolutely vital they never come out as they'll find their way quickly in between the teeth of the chain and sprockets and that could be disastrous on the road! So if you used anything it would actually be Locktite, but having that they make the screws from stale pastry they mince every time anyway, so this mod' ensures it won't happen again!
Too right Ade, any use of the synchros to hold it still is risky.... been looking up second hand parts washers on 'the bay'....but wouldn't have anywhere to put it anyway..lol. Thanks for watching mate.. Del.
Hi Albin, firstly, NO, the wheel rotates with the clutch in due to inertia, the clutch runs in oil which is sticky and will always cause a little drag, this is quite normal and correct....... you will know if your slave cylinder seals are leaking.... because brake fluid appears on the floor under the bike.... and the level drops in the resevoir... mine was only slightly weeping at 13yrs old and 44k miles... yours will be fine!
Hi buddy, thanks so much for those observations, it is a deliberate intention that I focus the explanations specifically towards non-mechanics... it's not like I'm teaching any sophisticated or technical, it is little more than house-keeping and basic maintenance. It means so much to me that new riders don't forget to learn the important skills they need in order to keep their bikes safe in this world of plug and play reliability.. thanks again, mate, Del
Hi Ron, that sounds like a fun trip... I know how it must feel cos we would equally love to visit California, that would be so exciting!... sadly we are a fair old way from London... about 3hrs away on the South Coast and it would, indeed, be great to meet you for a beer! Keep us posted on your plans, if it can fit in with work and time off we could ride up to meet you! Take care, D&P
Del as ever great video, and spot on info about the sprockets. I have done this for years, and still folks throw away money changing all at one go!!! doh.
Good point here, buddy, front sprockets and pulleys, being smaller, turn more times, so wear quicker and often it is the smaller pulley that knocks out the chain prematurely - I can regulary get 30k miles plus from a chain and this one has already been on for 19k and it's in fine health... the point here I would suggest is, check the grooves in your Sportster front pulley often and at first sign of any plating faults just replace it as it will cut your belt up - Del
You certainly will notice an improvement in the drive feel, it will transfer the torque to the chain more smoothly and with less 'slap', and maybe that means a tiny scrap more power gets to the back wheel....its also quieter and smoother going into gear...
Thanks for watching, mate, it's not obvious to swop a front, but once you plant the logic in someone's head, they usually see it straight away, it's just basic maths, spins 3 times faster, wears 3 times faster - take it easy, buddy, cheers Del
Great vid! Im looking into how front and rear sprockets with a different number of teeth will change the performance of my bike. I know the front is overdue for a change and I thought I would upgrade the back and chain while I was at it!
Good tips, thanks Del & Penny! Sucks about the impact driver being MIA I use mine all the time to free up those stuck screws...The tool loaning thing could be the subject of another FRO, it's happened to me too!
Hi Matthew....you certainly should have a lock washer between the sprocket and the nut...the kind that you tap over to stop the nut moving..and if its missing, then thats probably why it came loose..so get one and replace it NOW.... also if you tighten up the chain a bit tight it will tend to make a bit more clunking as you have placed force on two metal to metal surfaces...and if the front sprocket it worn then its even worse...get a new one mate, they are only a tenner.. good luck with it, Del
Plans are afoot for the Bandit, but sadly 'adding weight' is the opposite to what I'll be doing! Plus it's too much fun riding around on it in the summer!
Well thank you most kindly sir, its very special to be regarded well enough to use as an example, we truly appreciate the support....feel free to embed or link any of the videos that could be of help you anyone....take care and ride safe.. Del.
The broadband is now giving us 13Mb upload (rather than 0.3Mb)...but its not that thats proved the hurdle, as anyone knows who makes HD videos, its the other stuff that all grows hugely, it takes two batteries and a 32Gb card to film it on 1080, then four times longer to load and edit it, and still UA-cam reduce it for watching....its early days but at least we have the tools now, just got to master managing the massive files that 1080 filming makes...thanks for watching, Del.
You can achieve this by using an alloy rear sprocket and a steel front, this then works exactly as you said, they wear as a pair, but I use a steel rear as they last longer and they are cheaper and the un-sprung weight saving is minimal - Del
Yeah, i have a 6mm kit, but why bother, it still relies on a short 8mm long metric thread, (which only gives about 7 threads) and will just jam in the next time...bang the bolt right through and its way more sound, and reliable, thanks for the input though mate...cheers, Del.
You found me out - I was given that spanner by London Transport after completing my training in 1989 and I only kept it as it was the 'SMALLEST' they gave me and is perfect for wheel nuts and sprockets! (and hitting trollers with LOL!) ...glad you like the videos, thanks for your kind support, Del
Haha too right, Bill, never lend your tools! To be honest it was a long time ago and I've even forgotten who I lent it to and I guess having got along without it so long I obviously don't really need it LOL!
There's nothing wrong with part worn tyres mate, ive used them lots of time, and would again if i needed to...it could indeed be that it has work unevenly and only turns up the imbalance at speed and not when static balancing.(which i guess from the sound of it you are doing? .in which case, it could be worth taking it to a proper tyre fitting shop who has the high speed digital wheel balancer and can spin the wheel up to speed and maybe ad weight to counter it out...hope that helps. cheers, Del
Just had great fun doin my front sproket. Previous owner must have hung off it when doing it up. Breaker bar, lump of scaffold and two people and its off
As long as you use steel sprockets front and rear, then it's naturally obvious that the front, turning 3 times as many as the rear, will wear 3 times quicker, not to mention it lives in a grittier environment than the rear sprocket - you can buy sprockets made from fancy materials, but it's a false economy as they cost more... and the fade editing is a simple part of Windows Movie Maker and doesn't take very long at all (Penny is my editing genius!) - Del
Well done Del. I been saving this one until I had time to watch. I was more interested on the front Sprocket change than anything.... I hate going into the front sprocket casing, my OCD does not let me avoid it though :-) OMG, I hate the scum and...well.... The shit that gathers in there. Nicely done mate, thanks for the up!!
Am having a nostalgic look at a link Mr Dyson put in his latest vid... Without meaning to embarrass fella, your vids really are the mutts nuts and an inspiration to everyone that just wants to have a fair crack at having a go themselves.... Going to be playing around with the sprockets this weekend on the project bike, as the pitch is different between the FZR sprocket and the XJ600 sprocket am taking the opportunity to play about with ratios to see if I can get a little more grunt out of a geriatric XJ600. Never stop filming fella, 37665 of us, cant be wrong :)
+GTs Garage Ha ha, aww shucks Grumps..what can i say....its a good fun hobby that means i dont have to watch TV or talk to the retarded neighbours round here....so its a win win.... Loving the XJ project, and if you get stuck buddy... you always know where to find me, just drop me a line and ill see if we can help... take care buddy... D&P.
If the wobble is only at a certain speed then that is almost certainly wheel balancing issues, but if it's all the time it's more than likely cycle parts, meaning head stock bearings, fork bushes, etc., ...if you had the tyre fitted at a garage they should have balanced it, if they did, could it be that a weight has dislodged and come off? (they can come un-stuck if the surface of the rim is not prepped properly, dirt, grease, etc.), also what tyre pressure etc.? Let me know, Del
Thanks for another great vid! Ive said it before but Ill say it again, always check here if youre unsure of how to do something on your bike, chances are Delboy's done a great video all about it! haha
That's a typical problem and I never understand why people lean on them doing them up, maybe they think that because they are hard to get off, that it must have been done up that tight deliberately - if you only tightened it with your fingers, then rode it round the block, it would be too tight to undo as it spins left - plus with the retaining tab washer it's never going anywhere, so 'wrist tight' only is fine! Del
Nice confidence builder seeing these things done in real time... I have a seal job to do on my bike before it starts causing issues (as its known to). I was wondering - would it have been beneficial to have the nuts on the outside of the casing... that way - you reduce the risk of the nut coming off inside and you can inspect and notice it backing off easy. Might look a bit naff unless you have a pretty nut but still...
OK, here's the folklore: manufacturers spend pots of cash developing the bike to have good gas mileage, silky acceleration and a reasonable top speed, all combined - if you are happy to sacrifice the one expendable of the three, it's top speed (who needs more than a ton?)..so as the teeth are 3 to 1, one less on the front = three more on the rear = meaning it will pull your arms out and pick the front up and make you smile like a Cheshire cat! Plus you can adjust the difference out of the chain
You know what Tom, i almost bought a Bandit 600 casing and lever to convert it to cable....but the guy i know who has a wrecked 600 motor said the casing was damaged....would have been a better mod and yeah, less bother. and i dont know what DOT is is... its just says "Halfords Brake Fluid"..you know me, details are for nerds....lol.
Hi Del,just to give you an update, as this info may help other Bandit1200 owners. I have completed the tasks within this video, i cant thank you enough. My front sprocket was so hooked!!!You cant see it unless you remove the front sprocket cover. My1998 B12 Mk1 has only done 25,000 hard miles but stands unused for long winters. The 2 original clutch diaphragm springs had lost there performance causing it to slip at 7,000 rpm in top gear. I have swapped one of them for a Barnett Heavy Duty spring,just £11 & the original plates & steels were OK,saving me £200+VAT+labour.The clutch now bites much earlier like new & feels normal at the leaver.Selecting neutral is easy with no drag. Heavy traffic,not a problem but i keep crushing any thing that i pick up with my left hand,so no beer for me !!! Only joking!!!.its just right. My top tip is to reuse the old gasket by smearing it with high melting point grease to reseal it, again & again saving ££££s it really works,silicon blocks oil ways so i don't use it !!! Now that the clutch grips its time for tuning with some GSXR bits, i think!!!The only problem that i now have is that i cant keep the front wheel down!!! Yee Ha !!! BRING ON THE SPRING!!! DOG INTO IT & HAVE A GO!!! SAFE RIDING FOR LIFE.
Bob Hill Hi Bob, awesome.... slipping at 7k in top gear.... hmmmm that's about 120 right??.... Ain't it a bugger when that happens! Heyho you always knew the Bandit was a Gixxer with some 'girls' parts added, and the Barnett spring is a great upgrade and, in the future, when you fit the turbo, you can always upgrade to a proper Gixxer front plate and 6 Goodrich springs.... and then, perhaps, a long swing arm to help with launches... ain't it great to save some money, not to mention the pride in fixing your own stuff, good on yer mate, keep it real, and watch out for the Feds!
Moonfleet41 Hi Moonfleet14,thanks for your comments. Yes, 120 is about right,achieved on a disused runway that was once used as an emergency landing strip by Concord and not the public road. I shall see what parts are available but i refuse to spend large sums of cash.Remember,the Bandit is a budget bike!!! SAFE RIDING.
Del, I have what I believe to be a knackered clutch pushrod seal from the oily mess around the clutch slave and water pump on the Honda Magna 1982 V45. I've been told that the DOT3 leak from the slave is what's taken it out, so I've got a slave rebuild kit as well as a pushrod seal. My question is: Do I need to drain the engine oil before whipping out the pushrod and the oil seal from behind the slave? Any advice for this task would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Funny you did the front sprocket as well mate, i also stuck on a new spare 15t one i have had for a while. Great minds think alike, aye mate! ''Blessed are the cheesemakers''....Bet you can't guess what i have been watching...
How is it you know the jobs that need doing on my Pan lol. At the mo when the engine gets hot the biting point disappears (spirited riding), but there is no obvious leaks (bearing in mind there's so much fairing I cant tell lol). Could that be that the seal or spring has gone? Ive got fresh fluid in there as I thought it could have been the water in old fluid boiling. Its quite fun on a long ride with a beast like the pan with no biting point (glad I do clutchles changes lol)
'We are no longer The Knights Who Say Ni, We are the Kinights Who Say Ecky Ecky Ecky!' or the classic ... 'Come back and fight like a man, 'tis but a flesh wound' oh bloody hell, now you've got me started :-) I don't miss cleaning all that crud! Belt drives rule! :-)
hi Del, the chain on the varadero I bought was rusty and seazed in places although it was a new chain in November, I know this bcus it was on the last service and I have the receipt, unfortunately the geeza I bought the bike off had little to no mechanical understanding and I don't think its seen a drop of oil since, it has been stood in the rain for 4 months prior to me buying it, ive taken it off and wire brushed it up and soaked it in oil for the past 2 weeks, today I pulled it out and although most of the rust from the outside has gone its still seazed in places, given its done next to no miles will it be ok using it in the hope that riding it will free it up or do I fork out for a new one, thanks mate, Daz
Hi Daz, sadly mate, there's no way to sugar coat it, that chain is scrap... don't risk your life, mate, just drop it in the bin... however new it may be, if it's sat in the rain with no oil on for 4 months, it has seized in places because water's got in to the inside of the rollers and rusted them to the pins and even if you are able to move and free up the seizure, the steel remains rusted and weak... There's an old saying, my friend, 'you can't un-rust a chain'... it's a bit like the principle of an iceburg, the little bit of rust you can see on the outside is nothing to the horror that will be inside it! And rusty metal won't heal... so treat it as an investment in your safety and get yourself new chain... they're not expensive considering the job they do, and even if you get a cheap, budget one, it's better than the one you have... or treat yourself to a Regina Gold Chain and a Scottoiler and it will last you years and years... For what it's worth, I fitted a Regina chain on my Tiger with a Scottoiler and in 3000miles I haven't even had to adjust it yet from it#s bedding in stage!
Watched this video again after a year or so hoping to find some info about the drive (front) sprocket free play. I did 3 chain/sprocket jobs so far, and I always forget to check if there is supposed to be some free play of the sprocket on the shaft. I'm talking about side-to-side (imagine you're sitting on the bike) free play, not back-and-forth. I noticed that every time i change the original front sprocket with a JT one, I get this weird play. Del, do you think it's there by design? I did the job on 2 VFR's (800&750) and a CBR, and all these Honda's don't have a jam washer, there's only a very thick one there which also does not go on the shaft 'cause the sprocket is being held by a bolt rather than a nut. And the second thought is, should you put a "loctite" on that bolt? For me it sounds like not necessary because the torque setting on that bolt is around 50-55 Nm and as you said, the thread is right-handed while the shaft turns left all the time. Write a line if you got a minute and keep up the good work! P.S. Love the common sense! That's the first thing you have to use when working on the bike. Then there's a factory manual of course. :) Drive safe, D&P!
Very nice video for lessons, del I have a question about the piston which is already rusty. if you can recommend the online store can be trusted, because I come from indonesia.thx
+Muhamad Ucak I dont have an inline store that i know of, i would just search like anyone else.... have you not tried to clean them with metal polish yet?..they are stainless steel and should not rust, usually all that it on there will be dried on road dirt...?
I do have a question though re:mk1 600 front sprocket. After tightening up my chain, I noticed a clicking, even just when turning the rear wheel by hand on the stand. Does this indicate my chain is to tight or that the sprockets knackered? Also am I right in saying there should be a spacer or locking type washer like yours also on mine? Theres nothing behind the sprocket or between the bolt and sprocket, which is I think resulting in the bolt coming loose...
if you were to get those 2 nuts out nicely, would it be worth your while adding some copper slip to the threads to avoide future heartache? great video!
Hi my bandit doesn't have the screws in for the slave cylinder piston for the clutch, everything works fine but should i be concerned will it damage any thing ?? Also I'm going to change to braided break lines so thing ill change clutch one to so it will match, what difference will it make to the clutch. Thanks andy ps great video
del i just renewed the seals in my xjr1300sp as i was getting a slight what i would call fluid noise when pulling the clutch lever in just at the start down at the slave cylinder but no drips. i just bought this bike last week . i heard this noise when i was cleaning the bike dont ask i just pulled in the clutch when cleaning and heard the little fluid noise down below. the noise is only there at the start of the pull in the lever engine off as if the engine was started u wouldnt hear it as its that low of noise del . anyway i thought i would replace the seals and after £20 for kit . it still has this noise . can you tell me if the fluid seal was fitted wrong way round though i fitted the seal with the open lips of seal to the fluid side i take it there would be fluid leakage as there is no drips at all and clutch is still working fine . cheers del
+johncbr1100 Hi John, now i have heard that sound before, and had no issues at all with the clutch opperating.. it was on the Bandit... so perhaps its a seal moving against the metal, maybe an air bubble in the system causing a flutter...not sure.. but i guess if you've replaced the seals and its all working correctly with no leaks....then just keep an eye on it and let it ride.... as long at the clutch is all workinf soundly, then is cant be too serious.. !!
Moonfleet41 del thanks for the reply . just a update after this last day or so riding after the kit was fitted there is hardly any noise coming from it now so all ggod del. i guess it might just be the bed in part taking effect. anyway del i wouldnt of done this job without watching you do yours on your bandit. i know my bike is the xjr but not that much different, help me big time and saved a few quid away from labour charges at my bike shop. also gives me the feel good factor doing the jobs myself, thanks del pleasure watching your step by videos you have a true tallent . john belfast
+johncbr1100 Hi john, thats great to hear that you got it all sorted... the XJR is pretty much the same as a bandit, certainly in the clutch areas....they're all pretty much the same.. You're right too, its great to do your own bike repairs, it not only saves toy money, but builds a bond with your bike that helps you read and understand it better, and being better in touch with your bike has to be a better way to be....its daft to just ride a bike to destruction then hand it to the dealer, thats just soulless... take care buddy, and keep in touch, glad the videos could help you..All the best.. Del.,
You are dead right, the nut on the outside would look dead pikey and you'll soon know they are coming loose as the bolt heads will move around as much as a nut will... also, an allen bolt head on the outside of the casing looks completely standard and in place and not as if you've bodged it (which you have LOL!)
+Nicole Mcafee Hi Nicole, if you are refering to the lft hand chain cover casing in this video, then no, the oil is unaffected, you will see the casing is open at the bottom anyway...
Hi mate, sadly I must admit I am not too conversant with the anatomy of the mighty Pan, 'tis my claim to shame I'm afraid, just never had the opportunity to get jiggy with one in the garage - but in general, if a hydraulic system is affected by heat & becomes wooly, then it is either air in the system, water or worst of all, buggered hoses... if you're still wearing the old rubber hose then the heat could be softening it causing expansion........get a Goodrich up it's arse, mate, that'll sort it
Moonfleet41 sound advice, my front sprocket is curved, the actual teeth are different widths, subsequently my chains a tad long (which means a new chain) and of course I'll have to replace the rear >< (should of checked that sooner) Related note, why dont SunStar / JT etc have rubber dampeners on the front sprocket like the Suzuki original ones?
Hi Del. I found one of the wires that goes into the bottom of the carbs ('04 1200) has come out, I believe they are for heating in extreme cold. Is it something I can repair. Is it necessary to, even? Not sure what they're called to order parts. Many thanks for your vids!
hi John, well if you have a broken wire, then obviously set that right first, level playing field and all that, if it was meant to be there, then its never good to leave it broken... see how it is once you get that done. let me know how it goes.. good luck.. Del.
hi del, your video's have help me do my front seals on my brakes on me bandit 1200 and put new pads in, i rebuilt my rear brakes as well, im learning loads, just did a oil change on my b12 and found oil leaking on the sprocket side of things, so took the case off with the slave clutch on and started the bike and it push the potion out when i had the engine running and broke the thing peace of metal holding the piston in found it leaking on push rod thingy, but my problem is now the slave postion housing has broke what is the best thing to do? kieren
sammy gower Sorry Sammy, not really sure wihtout looking at it, but if you have a broken cast alloy housing, the only solution would naturally be to replace it... you can get a re-build kit ofr the slave cylinder, but that is only rubbers and springs... the casting would have to come from Suzuki... hope that helps!
Great video as always, especially for us unexperienced bikers. Nice tip on the front sprocket aswell. How do you know if that seal is worn out? I've got a 2003 Bandit and i noticed while i was lubing my chain up and had the bike on the central stand in 1st gear that the wheel was spinning even if i pulled the clutch. Do you think i have the same problem?
Smashing tutorial del :-) I dont know, ragging us about bodging things and overtightning stuff and you ruin those beautifull almost new screws, you driller gorilla..... he he :-), pulling ya leg mate :-) I had to do the same for my frends aprilia scooter, the screws holding daft plastic covers to the front lower forks did not want to move, penitrating oil did nothing so i snapped the heads off and drilled straight through, new stainless steel nuts&bolts made it all happy again :-)
I came here looking for a video on replacing the front and rear sprockets, as I am tired of paying all the money for this stuff, and your fork seal replacement video was excellent. I was wondering if replacing the sprockets was as straight forward as the fork seals, or if it is dependent on make and model. and do you have a video for this already?
+ThePatience404 Hi mate, got a few library regarding chains and sprockets... it is pretty generic, most front sprockets are coered with a casing, the sprocket lies beneath with a big tab washer on and a large nut... and the rear sprocket bolts to a carrier on the rear wheel, which means you need to take it out... re-joining the chain link is the only tricky bit, it's not complex, but it must be done properly...
Hey Del..the wife and I are thinking of makin a trip cross the big pond sometime min the near future...how far are you from london? Would love to meet you and penny and buy you guys beers or whatever your pleasure is..lol thnanks..Cali Ron :)
I had always heard to replace both sprockets when the chain is replaced. However, I never heard anyone mention changing just the front sprocket. This is why I enjoy your videos so much! Always educational! Thanks Del and Penny.
Nice to see you back in Delboy's Garage - spot on vid again. Especially like the way you don't edit out all the stuff we're likely to encounter like stuck bolts etc. Interesting that you're considering swapping over to cable clutch. Can't help thinking that bikes have become more complicated for very little gain over the years. Handy looking bus spanner you had for the front sprocket.
Thank you kindly, buddy, I always feel that if something makes sense to someone who's never heard of it, then it's good logic - believe it or not, you will actually notice a difference when you ride it, it will be smoother and less clunky through the gears, which proves it has to be of benefit - you're packing out the chain gaps, which prevents rubbing and wearing that will shorten the chain's life - Cheers, Del
Watched your vid on front sprocket change on your Triumph Tiger (2015), and now watched this vid on a front sprocket change on your old Bandit. as previously stated I will change the front sprocket on my B12s tomorrow. Many Thanks for this video.
+Davie. H Thanks Davie, glad it can help you buddy, good luck with yours... Del.
This one helped me out BIG time. Still going through the crazy changes the previous owner has done to the bike. Previous owner had a 520 on my Bandit 1200 which broke and flew off down the road so not thinking I just ordered a new 530 but ended up needing to get both new sprockets and while replacing I found I needed the slave seal as well.
Jeremiah Harkins Hi mate...aint it always the same, why do people take such dumbass shortcuts... at least you didnt end up with it wrapped round your left ankle... good luck with it buddy.. cheers, Del.
Never mind mate, with the OCD I feel your pain brother! What I forgot to do is show my favourite trick of when in the coffee shop nick a fistful of those wooden stirring sticks they give you with your latte as they are brilliant for scraping out the crud, then just rob a pair of Madge's marigolds and get stuck in! And careful you don't tread a blob of it in the house as you'll need a cricket box or a week off work to recover !
thanks for the vids del they are awesome, had to change the chain and sprockets on a 82 honda CB TDC 125. its the same principle as the bandits to fit. keep them coming
Thanks mate, its great to know that the message is getting out and actually changing the way new bikers think about their bike... take care mate... Del.
Cheers mate - glad to have you aboard, Del
Quote from a forum member I sent to your channel- " Del boy makes a good point about the seals being in the right way up, I doubt I would of noticed that". Another biker helped out and another subscriber for you lol.
Hi Alex..im not entirely sure on the anatomy of your Magna, but generally no, the seal is not a pressure seal, its just there to stop the oil that splashes about the other side of the pushrod from passing through t the slave side..on the Bandit you just take the retaining plate off and pop it out, comes with a steel insert to keep it in shape. i would imagine that even if there is oil the other side, it wont be under any pressure, maybe just tilt the bike so it drains away from the seal..GL, Del
Too right, mate, if in doubt drill it out! ... This is a great fix when you mince the cast alloy threads in your brake caliper mountings, just run an 8mm drill straight through and poke a nut on the back... job done!
Makes me realise just how much i have forgotten over the years, can't even remember how to drill bolts out properly lol.....how on earth i rebuilt my AJS i'll never know, great video as always
This is my last issue Thanks your videos have kept the total cost of my bike to 650.00 for the bike and the repairs I'm sure I could have pulled it off with out these videos. But they were great help you are a great Instructor and I used to be a Nissan/ Ford instructor again thanks
Jeff Bankston Glad they can help Jeff, you're most welcome... don't see myself as an instructor, just sharing a few tips buddy !
No anyone that can deliver instruction in a calm collect way that anyone can understand is a great instructor now lets get you in front of 30 adult kids fresh out of high school and fresh from the war you can do it
Another beautifully made instructional video. You are bloody good at this! Thanks for sharing
Dear lawd I got those screws out . Had to DC the hydraulic line and heat it up but I didn't strip the screws, damn they were in tight. Funny how old these comments are, I'm just now doing my 99 and I've owned it since new, it's still almost pristine and have a couple vids riding to the mountains. Definitely easier than that steering stem bearing.Thanks for the vid Del hope alls good with you.
Darn right on the cuppa, tiz the essential garage lubricant! Give the sprocket thing a try, it will feel like you've changed the whole set and save you a fortune by prolonging it's life!
You are quite right, that sprocket fits several bikes, inc. the Hayabusa, and on some those holes are for a retaining washer, my point was that you CAN use them as 'draw bolt holes' if the sprocket is jammed in place, although this very rarely happens as it is not a machine fit!
Had no idea about the front sprocket, i always got the idea it was harder and lasted the same as the back. When i changed mine last year (2300 miles ago) it was so full of much, must have been about 2" thick but have to say it was not all me as i only just had it about 6 months by then and was changing it to pass my MOT so i will now keep that in mind. Great video as always and love the fade editing, bet that takes more time lol.
Great video man. I've commented on a few and requested some silly things that you just happen to do right when i'm asking. I noticed your video's are more broken up and your explinations makes it easier to understand the working machanics of pretty much every time. Thanks again for taking time out to show us novious machanics..haha. cheers!
First do a full system check, start the bike from cold, allow it to heat right up till the fan kicks in, then switch off...if the gauge fails to move at all, then check for wiring faults, maybe a loose or broken connection, and if you are getting a full live feed from the sendor to the gauge, it can only be a faulty sendor, not too expensive to replace - if you've just bought it, wouldn't be a bad idea to do a full coolant change too, it can often be crud in the system, good luck, Del
Hi Del,i found this video useful thank you. I have got exactly the same problems with my B12. So i shall be dogging in to it! Cheers
Cheers Bazza, always appreciate you watching, mate, we did indeed have some smashing ham, egg 'n chips down at Poole Quay and caught up with some old biker mates we'd lost touch with, all in all, a smashing day! Ride safe, mate, Del
Hi Phil... I shop around mate, use the wonders of eBay mostly, and suppliers like M&P and Busters seem to come up trumps every time..
Ha did mine a week or so ago and put a couple of helicoils in, didn't think of drilling through but it a good fix especially with a couple of stainless dome allens. Nice job...
Hi Neil, that is logic in principle, but looking at the environment they live in, it's absolutely vital they never come out as they'll find their way quickly in between the teeth of the chain and sprockets and that could be disastrous on the road! So if you used anything it would actually be Locktite, but having that they make the screws from stale pastry they mince every time anyway, so this mod' ensures it won't happen again!
Too right Ade, any use of the synchros to hold it still is risky.... been looking up second hand parts washers on 'the bay'....but wouldn't have anywhere to put it anyway..lol. Thanks for watching mate.. Del.
Hi Albin, firstly, NO, the wheel rotates with the clutch in due to inertia, the clutch runs in oil which is sticky and will always cause a little drag, this is quite normal and correct....... you will know if your slave cylinder seals are leaking.... because brake fluid appears on the floor under the bike.... and the level drops in the resevoir... mine was only slightly weeping at 13yrs old and 44k miles... yours will be fine!
Hi buddy, thanks so much for those observations, it is a deliberate intention that I focus the explanations specifically towards non-mechanics... it's not like I'm teaching any sophisticated or technical, it is little more than house-keeping and basic maintenance. It means so much to me that new riders don't forget to learn the important skills they need in order to keep their bikes safe in this world of plug and play reliability.. thanks again, mate, Del
Hi Ron, that sounds like a fun trip... I know how it must feel cos we would equally love to visit California, that would be so exciting!... sadly we are a fair old way from London... about 3hrs away on the South Coast and it would, indeed, be great to meet you for a beer! Keep us posted on your plans, if it can fit in with work and time off we could ride up to meet you! Take care, D&P
Del as ever great video, and spot on info about the sprockets. I have done this for years, and still folks throw away money changing all at one go!!! doh.
Thanks Tom - desperate to get the garage straight, it's like working in a bloomin' cupboard!
Good point here, buddy, front sprockets and pulleys, being smaller, turn more times, so wear quicker and often it is the smaller pulley that knocks out the chain prematurely - I can regulary get 30k miles plus from a chain and this one has already been on for 19k and it's in fine health... the point here I would suggest is, check the grooves in your Sportster front pulley often and at first sign of any plating faults just replace it as it will cut your belt up - Del
hi del, just wanted to say big thx for your guides. very detailed and you just can't miss a bloody thing. my 1996 1200 needs a lot of time know.
Glad it could help buddy, much appreciate your support!
You certainly will notice an improvement in the drive feel, it will transfer the torque to the chain more smoothly and with less 'slap', and maybe that means a tiny scrap more power gets to the back wheel....its also quieter and smoother going into gear...
Really enjoy your videos. Informative and easy to watch. Thanks for your effort.
Thanks mate, glad you enjoy them. Del.
Thanks for watching, mate, it's not obvious to swop a front, but once you plant the logic in someone's head, they usually see it straight away, it's just basic maths, spins 3 times faster, wears 3 times faster - take it easy, buddy, cheers Del
Was thinking that, it would have to be some kind of vlog, food for thought, Cheers Del
Great vid! Im looking into how front and rear sprockets with a different number of teeth will change the performance of my bike. I know the front is overdue for a change and I thought I would upgrade the back and chain while I was at it!
Good tips, thanks Del & Penny! Sucks about the impact driver being MIA I use mine all the time to free up those stuck screws...The tool loaning thing could be the subject of another FRO, it's happened to me too!
Hi Matthew....you certainly should have a lock washer between the sprocket and the nut...the kind that you tap over to stop the nut moving..and if its missing, then thats probably why it came loose..so get one and replace it NOW.... also if you tighten up the chain a bit tight it will tend to make a bit more clunking as you have placed force on two metal to metal surfaces...and if the front sprocket it worn then its even worse...get a new one mate, they are only a tenner.. good luck with it, Del
Moonfleet41 uvaudchxd
Plans are afoot for the Bandit, but sadly 'adding weight' is the opposite to what I'll be doing! Plus it's too much fun riding around on it in the summer!
Well thank you most kindly sir, its very special to be regarded well enough to use as an example, we truly appreciate the support....feel free to embed or link any of the videos that could be of help you anyone....take care and ride safe.. Del.
The broadband is now giving us 13Mb upload (rather than 0.3Mb)...but its not that thats proved the hurdle, as anyone knows who makes HD videos, its the other stuff that all grows hugely, it takes two batteries and a 32Gb card to film it on 1080, then four times longer to load and edit it, and still UA-cam reduce it for watching....its early days but at least we have the tools now, just got to master managing the massive files that 1080 filming makes...thanks for watching, Del.
You can achieve this by using an alloy rear sprocket and a steel front, this then works exactly as you said, they wear as a pair, but I use a steel rear as they last longer and they are cheaper and the un-sprung weight saving is minimal - Del
Careful what you wish for, mate, it takes longer every day to reply to them all, sometimes whole evenings into the small hours... but it's worth it!
No problem....another thing, your editing is coming along pretty nice.
Yeah, i have a 6mm kit, but why bother, it still relies on a short 8mm long metric thread, (which only gives about 7 threads) and will just jam in the next time...bang the bolt right through and its way more sound, and reliable, thanks for the input though mate...cheers, Del.
You found me out - I was given that spanner by London Transport after completing my training in 1989 and I only kept it as it was the 'SMALLEST' they gave me and is perfect for wheel nuts and sprockets! (and hitting trollers with LOL!) ...glad you like the videos, thanks for your kind support, Del
Haha too right, Bill, never lend your tools! To be honest it was a long time ago and I've even forgotten who I lent it to and I guess having got along without it so long I obviously don't really need it LOL!
There's nothing wrong with part worn tyres mate, ive used them lots of time, and would again if i needed to...it could indeed be that it has work unevenly and only turns up the imbalance at speed and not when static balancing.(which i guess from the sound of it you are doing? .in which case, it could be worth taking it to a proper tyre fitting shop who has the high speed digital wheel balancer and can spin the wheel up to speed and maybe ad weight to counter it out...hope that helps. cheers, Del
Just had great fun doin my front sproket. Previous owner must have hung off it when doing it up. Breaker bar, lump of scaffold and two people and its off
As long as you use steel sprockets front and rear, then it's naturally obvious that the front, turning 3 times as many as the rear, will wear 3 times quicker, not to mention it lives in a grittier environment than the rear sprocket - you can buy sprockets made from fancy materials, but it's a false economy as they cost more... and the fade editing is a simple part of Windows Movie Maker and doesn't take very long at all (Penny is my editing genius!) - Del
Get it done, mate, a chain breaking free never ends well!
Well done Del.
I been saving this one until I had time to watch. I was more interested on the front Sprocket change than anything....
I hate going into the front sprocket casing, my OCD does not let me avoid it though :-)
OMG, I hate the scum and...well.... The shit that gathers in there.
Nicely done mate, thanks for the up!!
Am having a nostalgic look at a link Mr Dyson put in his latest vid... Without meaning to embarrass fella, your vids really are the mutts nuts and an inspiration to everyone that just wants to have a fair crack at having a go themselves.... Going to be playing around with the sprockets this weekend on the project bike, as the pitch is different between the FZR sprocket and the XJ600 sprocket am taking the opportunity to play about with ratios to see if I can get a little more grunt out of a geriatric XJ600. Never stop filming fella, 37665 of us, cant be wrong :)
+GTs Garage Ha ha, aww shucks Grumps..what can i say....its a good fun hobby that means i dont have to watch TV or talk to the retarded neighbours round here....so its a win win.... Loving the XJ project, and if you get stuck buddy... you always know where to find me, just drop me a line and ill see if we can help... take care buddy... D&P.
If the wobble is only at a certain speed then that is almost certainly wheel balancing issues, but if it's all the time it's more than likely cycle parts, meaning head stock bearings, fork bushes, etc., ...if you had the tyre fitted at a garage they should have balanced it, if they did, could it be that a weight has dislodged and come off? (they can come un-stuck if the surface of the rim is not prepped properly, dirt, grease, etc.), also what tyre pressure etc.? Let me know, Del
Thanks for another great vid! Ive said it before but Ill say it again, always check here if youre unsure of how to do something on your bike, chances are Delboy's done a great video all about it! haha
Thanks Jeep, glad you liked it mate, take care, Del.
That's a typical problem and I never understand why people lean on them doing them up, maybe they think that because they are hard to get off, that it must have been done up that tight deliberately - if you only tightened it with your fingers, then rode it round the block, it would be too tight to undo as it spins left - plus with the retaining tab washer it's never going anywhere, so 'wrist tight' only is fine! Del
Nice confidence builder seeing these things done in real time... I have a seal job to do on my bike before it starts causing issues (as its known to).
I was wondering - would it have been beneficial to have the nuts on the outside of the casing... that way - you reduce the risk of the nut coming off inside and you can inspect and notice it backing off easy. Might look a bit naff unless you have a pretty nut but still...
That was a good and informative vedio. Thank you and I need to watch the rest of them.
Great vid mate, dropping knowledge on our asses. As always keep it up and see you soon. Regards Adam .
OK, here's the folklore: manufacturers spend pots of cash developing the bike to have good gas mileage, silky acceleration and a reasonable top speed, all combined - if you are happy to sacrifice the one expendable of the three, it's top speed (who needs more than a ton?)..so as the teeth are 3 to 1, one less on the front = three more on the rear = meaning it will pull your arms out and pick the front up and make you smile like a Cheshire cat! Plus you can adjust the difference out of the chain
You know what Tom, i almost bought a Bandit 600 casing and lever to convert it to cable....but the guy i know who has a wrecked 600 motor said the casing was damaged....would have been a better mod and yeah, less bother. and i dont know what DOT is is... its just says "Halfords Brake Fluid"..you know me, details are for nerds....lol.
Hi Del,just to give you an update, as this info may help other Bandit1200 owners. I have completed the tasks within this video, i cant thank you enough. My front sprocket was so hooked!!!You cant see it unless you remove the front sprocket cover. My1998 B12 Mk1 has only done 25,000 hard miles but stands unused for long winters. The 2 original clutch diaphragm springs had lost there performance causing it to slip at 7,000 rpm in top gear. I have swapped one of them for a Barnett Heavy Duty spring,just £11 & the original plates & steels were OK,saving me £200+VAT+labour.The clutch now bites much earlier like new & feels normal at the leaver.Selecting neutral is easy with no drag. Heavy traffic,not a problem but i keep crushing any thing that i pick up with my left hand,so no beer for me !!! Only joking!!!.its just right. My top tip is to reuse the old gasket by smearing it with high melting point grease to reseal it, again & again saving ££££s it really works,silicon blocks oil ways so i don't use it !!! Now that the clutch grips its time for tuning with some GSXR bits, i think!!!The only problem that i now have is that i cant keep the front wheel down!!! Yee Ha !!! BRING ON THE SPRING!!! DOG INTO IT & HAVE A GO!!! SAFE RIDING FOR LIFE.
Bob Hill Hi Bob, awesome.... slipping at 7k in top gear.... hmmmm that's about 120 right??.... Ain't it a bugger when that happens! Heyho you always knew the Bandit was a Gixxer with some 'girls' parts added, and the Barnett spring is a great upgrade and, in the future, when you fit the turbo, you can always upgrade to a proper Gixxer front plate and 6 Goodrich springs.... and then, perhaps, a long swing arm to help with launches... ain't it great to save some money, not to mention the pride in fixing your own stuff, good on yer mate, keep it real, and watch out for the Feds!
Moonfleet41 Hi Moonfleet14,thanks for your comments. Yes, 120 is about right,achieved on a disused runway that was once used as an emergency landing strip by Concord and not the public road. I shall see what parts are available but i refuse to spend large sums of cash.Remember,the Bandit is a budget bike!!! SAFE RIDING.
Hi Moonfleet41 So what are your top 3 tips for tuning B12 Mk1 without beaking the bank?May be you could make a video clip? SAFE RIDING CHEERS
Del,
I have what I believe to be a knackered clutch pushrod seal from the oily mess around the clutch slave and water pump on the Honda Magna 1982 V45. I've been told that the DOT3 leak from the slave is what's taken it out, so I've got a slave rebuild kit as well as a pushrod seal. My question is: Do I need to drain the engine oil before whipping out the pushrod and the oil seal from behind the slave? Any advice for this task would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Funny you did the front sprocket as well mate, i also stuck on a new spare 15t one i have had for a while. Great minds think alike, aye mate! ''Blessed are the cheesemakers''....Bet you can't guess what i have been watching...
hope you enjoyed your lunch after that mate, great vid, once again, no bullshit just simple easy to follow vid, saty cool...regards
How is it you know the jobs that need doing on my Pan lol. At the mo when the engine gets hot the biting point disappears (spirited riding), but there is no obvious leaks (bearing in mind there's so much fairing I cant tell lol). Could that be that the seal or spring has gone? Ive got fresh fluid in there as I thought it could have been the water in old fluid boiling. Its quite fun on a long ride with a beast like the pan with no biting point (glad I do clutchles changes lol)
Love your Vids mate... Keep em coming.
+illsuspect Thanks buddy...much appreciated..
I seem to be dropping your name quite a lot on the bike forums lol. Good stuff as always guys.
'We are no longer The Knights Who Say Ni, We are the Kinights Who Say Ecky Ecky Ecky!'
or the classic ...
'Come back and fight like a man, 'tis but a flesh wound'
oh bloody hell, now you've got me started :-)
I don't miss cleaning all that crud! Belt drives rule! :-)
hi Del, the chain on the varadero I bought was rusty and seazed in places although it was a new chain in November, I know this bcus it was on the last service and I have the receipt, unfortunately the geeza I bought the bike off had little to no mechanical understanding and I don't think its seen a drop of oil since, it has been stood in the rain for 4 months prior to me buying it, ive taken it off and wire brushed it up and soaked it in oil for the past 2 weeks, today I pulled it out and although most of the rust from the outside has gone its still seazed in places, given its done next to no miles will it be ok using it in the hope that riding it will free it up or do I fork out for a new one, thanks mate, Daz
Hi Daz, sadly mate, there's no way to sugar coat it, that chain is scrap... don't risk your life, mate, just drop it in the bin... however new it may be, if it's sat in the rain with no oil on for 4 months, it has seized in places because water's got in to the inside of the rollers and rusted them to the pins and even if you are able to move and free up the seizure, the steel remains rusted and weak...
There's an old saying, my friend, 'you can't un-rust a chain'... it's a bit like the principle of an iceburg, the little bit of rust you can see on the outside is nothing to the horror that will be inside it! And rusty metal won't heal... so treat it as an investment in your safety and get yourself new chain... they're not expensive considering the job they do, and even if you get a cheap, budget one, it's better than the one you have... or treat yourself to a Regina Gold Chain and a Scottoiler and it will last you years and years...
For what it's worth, I fitted a Regina chain on my Tiger with a Scottoiler and in 3000miles I haven't even had to adjust it yet from it#s bedding in stage!
Thanks Del
I can buy a mid range chain and sprocket set for around 55 pounds so I may aswell go for it, thanks again bud,
And a nice picket fence...!
Watched this video again after a year or so hoping to find some info about the drive (front) sprocket free play. I did 3 chain/sprocket jobs so far, and I always forget to check if there is supposed to be some free play of the sprocket on the shaft. I'm talking about side-to-side (imagine you're sitting on the bike) free play, not back-and-forth. I noticed that every time i change the original front sprocket with a JT one, I get this weird play. Del, do you think it's there by design? I did the job on 2 VFR's (800&750) and a CBR, and all these Honda's don't have a jam washer, there's only a very thick one there which also does not go on the shaft 'cause the sprocket is being held by a bolt rather than a nut. And the second thought is, should you put a "loctite" on that bolt? For me it sounds like not necessary because the torque setting on that bolt is around 50-55 Nm and as you said, the thread is right-handed while the shaft turns left all the time.
Write a line if you got a minute and keep up the good work!
P.S. Love the common sense! That's the first thing you have to use when working on the bike. Then there's a factory manual of course. :) Drive safe, D&P!
Very nice video for lessons, del I have a question about the piston which is already rusty. if you can recommend the online store can be trusted, because I come from indonesia.thx
+Muhamad Ucak I dont have an inline store that i know of, i would just search like anyone else.... have you not tried to clean them with metal polish yet?..they are stainless steel and should not rust, usually all that it on there will be dried on road dirt...?
I do have a question though re:mk1 600 front sprocket. After tightening up my chain, I noticed a clicking, even just when turning the rear wheel by hand on the stand. Does this indicate my chain is to tight or that the sprockets knackered?
Also am I right in saying there should be a spacer or locking type washer like yours also on mine? Theres nothing behind the sprocket or between the bolt and sprocket, which is I think resulting in the bolt coming loose...
Did you consider the use of a helicoil for the retainer plate screws holes?
if you were to get those 2 nuts out nicely, would it be worth your while adding some copper slip to the threads to avoide future heartache? great video!
Hi my bandit doesn't have the screws in for the slave cylinder piston for the clutch, everything works fine but should i be concerned will it damage any thing ?? Also I'm going to change to braided break lines so thing ill change clutch one to so it will match, what difference will it make to the clutch. Thanks andy ps great video
del i just renewed the seals in my xjr1300sp as i was getting a slight what i would call fluid noise when pulling the clutch lever in just at the start down at the slave cylinder but no drips. i just bought this bike last week . i heard this noise when i was cleaning the bike dont ask i just pulled in the clutch when cleaning and heard the little fluid noise down below. the noise is only there at the start of the pull in the lever engine off as if the engine was started u wouldnt hear it as its that low of noise del . anyway i thought i would replace the seals and after £20 for kit . it still has this noise . can you tell me if the fluid seal was fitted wrong way round though i fitted the seal with the open lips of seal to the fluid side i take it there would be fluid leakage as there is no drips at all and clutch is still working fine . cheers del
+johncbr1100 Hi John, now i have heard that sound before, and had no issues at all with the clutch opperating.. it was on the Bandit... so perhaps its a seal moving against the metal, maybe an air bubble in the system causing a flutter...not sure.. but i guess if you've replaced the seals and its all working correctly with no leaks....then just keep an eye on it and let it ride.... as long at the clutch is all workinf soundly, then is cant be too serious.. !!
Moonfleet41
del thanks for the reply . just a update after this last day or so riding after the kit was fitted there is hardly any noise coming from it now so all ggod del. i guess it might just be the bed in part taking effect. anyway del i wouldnt of done this job without watching you do yours on your bandit. i know my bike is the xjr but not that much different, help me big time and saved a few quid away from labour charges at my bike shop. also gives me the feel good factor doing the jobs myself, thanks del pleasure watching your step by videos you have a true tallent . john belfast
+johncbr1100 Hi john, thats great to hear that you got it all sorted... the XJR is pretty much the same as a bandit, certainly in the clutch areas....they're all pretty much the same.. You're right too, its great to do your own bike repairs, it not only saves toy money, but builds a bond with your bike that helps you read and understand it better, and being better in touch with your bike has to be a better way to be....its daft to just ride a bike to destruction then hand it to the dealer, thats just soulless...
take care buddy, and keep in touch, glad the videos could help you..All the best..
Del.,
8 years on and I used this video to replace the clutch slave seal.
My Bandit is a K2 not a MK1, but it still works.
Thanks for the feedback Tim, im really glad it was still able ot help you after all this time.
@@Moonfleet41 I also used the Sealy oil and brake fluid syringe.
Just need to save up for the RD rebuild. lol
You are dead right, the nut on the outside would look dead pikey and you'll soon know they are coming loose as the bolt heads will move around as much as a nut will... also, an allen bolt head on the outside of the casing looks completely standard and in place and not as if you've bodged it (which you have LOL!)
Thankyou for the help with your videos, do you have to drop the oil out before attempting to remove the case? cheers.
+Nicole Mcafee Hi Nicole, if you are refering to the lft hand chain cover casing in this video, then no, the oil is unaffected, you will see the casing is open at the bottom anyway...
cheers matey will try change fliud first , great vids keep them coming :)
Hi mate, sadly I must admit I am not too conversant with the anatomy of the mighty Pan, 'tis my claim to shame I'm afraid, just never had the opportunity to get jiggy with one in the garage - but in general, if a hydraulic system is affected by heat & becomes wooly, then it is either air in the system, water or worst of all, buggered hoses... if you're still wearing the old rubber hose then the heat could be softening it causing expansion........get a Goodrich up it's arse, mate, that'll sort it
Where can I get the frame mount headlight bracket you showed in another video? I really want to get rid of the front fairing on my 1996 1200S
Huh, I'd always assumed the chain & sprockets were engineered to wear at the same time using different strength steel. You live & learn :o)
Moonfleet41 sound advice, my front sprocket is curved, the actual teeth are different widths, subsequently my chains a tad long (which means a new chain) and of course I'll have to replace the rear >< (should of checked that sooner)
Related note, why dont SunStar / JT etc have rubber dampeners on the front sprocket like the Suzuki original ones?
Hi Del. I found one of the wires that goes into the bottom of the carbs ('04 1200) has come out, I believe they are for heating in extreme cold. Is it something I can repair. Is it necessary to, even? Not sure what they're called to order parts. Many thanks for your vids!
hi John, well if you have a broken wire, then obviously set that right first, level playing field and all that, if it was meant to be there, then its never good to leave it broken... see how it is once you get that done. let me know how it goes.. good luck.. Del.
hi del, your video's have help me do my front seals on my brakes on me bandit 1200 and put new pads in, i rebuilt my rear brakes as well, im learning loads, just did a oil change on my b12 and found oil leaking on the sprocket side of things, so took the case off with the slave clutch on and started the bike and it push the potion out when i had the engine running and broke the thing peace of metal holding the piston in found it leaking on push rod thingy, but my problem is now the slave postion housing has broke what is the best thing to do? kieren
sammy gower Sorry Sammy, not really sure wihtout looking at it, but if you have a broken cast alloy housing, the only solution would naturally be to replace it... you can get a re-build kit ofr the slave cylinder, but that is only rubbers and springs... the casting would have to come from Suzuki... hope that helps!
Great video as always, especially for us unexperienced bikers. Nice tip on the front sprocket aswell. How do you know if that seal is worn out? I've got a 2003 Bandit and i noticed while i was lubing my chain up and had the bike on the central stand in 1st gear that the wheel was spinning even if i pulled the clutch. Do you think i have the same problem?
Great vid Del
That seal you saved ..without the rod on ..when I start it up its chucks oil out of the hole ..is this the seal gone..?
If you mean the clutch push rod.. then yes it will chuck oil out if you remove the rod.. but it shouldn't do if the rod is in place..!
Do you notice a slight power (return/increase) with a new front sprocket?
Smashing tutorial del :-)
I dont know, ragging us about bodging things and overtightning stuff and you ruin those beautifull almost new screws, you driller gorilla..... he he :-), pulling ya leg mate :-)
I had to do the same for my frends aprilia scooter, the screws holding daft plastic covers to the front lower forks did not want to move, penitrating oil did nothing so i snapped the heads off and drilled straight through, new stainless steel nuts&bolts made it all happy again :-)
oohh man what you do with that beautiful bike...................
I came here looking for a video on replacing the front and rear sprockets, as I am tired of paying all the money for this stuff, and your fork seal replacement video was excellent. I was wondering if replacing the sprockets was as straight forward as the fork seals, or if it is dependent on make and model. and do you have a video for this already?
+ThePatience404 Hi mate, got a few library regarding chains and sprockets... it is pretty generic, most front sprockets are coered with a casing, the sprocket lies beneath with a big tab washer on and a large nut... and the rear sprocket bolts to a carrier on the rear wheel, which means you need to take it out... re-joining the chain link is the only tricky bit, it's not complex, but it must be done properly...
Hey Del..the wife and I are thinking of makin a trip cross the big pond sometime min the near future...how far are you from london? Would love to meet you and penny and buy you guys beers or whatever your pleasure is..lol thnanks..Cali Ron :)